Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- SHISEIDO CO LTD
- Filing Date
- 2022-08-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-08-03
AI Technical Summary
【0010】 本発明に係る化粧料は、上記構成とすることにより、水中油型乳化物特有の使用感触を得ると同時に、油中水型乳化物のような高い化粧効果を得ることができる。すなわち、本発明の水中油型乳化化粧料は、スキンケア化粧料のようなみずみずしさと、塗布時ののび広がりに優れる使用感触が得られるとともに、化粧効果としてのカバー力を得るために必要な量の粉末を油相中に安定して配合することができる。
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Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates to an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic having a fresh and smooth spreading feel and excellent covering power.
Background Art
[0002] Generally, in order to enable the incorporation of a large amount of emollients and powder components as oil components, an oil-in-water type emulsion is preferably used when preparing makeup cosmetics. The oil-in-water type emulsion can provide a high makeup effect due to the incorporation of powder components such as pigments. However, it may be inferior in terms of the fresh and refreshing feel like that of skincare cosmetics and the good spreading property during application.
[0003] On the other hand, an oil-in-water type emulsion may be used not only for skincare cosmetics but also for makeup cosmetics because of its excellent fresh feel and good spreading property during application. However, when trying to incorporate a large amount of powder components to cover skin irregularities, skin discoloration such as spots and freckles, etc., problems such as poor emulsion stability, inferior freshness, and powdery feeling may occur, resulting in a decrease in the usability.
[0004] As a technique for overcoming the above problems, for example, in Patent Document 1, by incorporating an associative thickener and a thickening polysaccharide into the aqueous phase which is the external phase, the aqueous phase is thickened, and by incorporating a powder together with a specific dispersant into the oil phase which is the internal phase, an oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic with improved stability and good usability is obtained.
[0005] In the above oil-in-water type emulsified cosmetic, due to the thickening of the aqueous phase, an elastic and smooth feel can be obtained, but it cannot be said to be sufficient in terms of the fresh feel peculiar to the oil-in-water type emulsion and the good spreading property during application.
Prior Art Documents
Patent Documents
[0006] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2009-234917 [Disclosure of the Invention] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0007] The present invention aims to provide an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic that has a fresh, easily spreadable texture and excellent coverage as a cosmetic effect. [Means for solving the problem]
[0008] As a result of diligent research to solve the aforementioned problems, the inventors have discovered that by emulsifying an oil-in-water emulsion composition using silicone nanodiscs, which are precursors formed from vesicles created by a specific aqueous component and a specific silicone-based surfactant, and by incorporating a specific compound as a dispersant, the characteristic feel of an oil-in-water emulsion can be obtained while simultaneously significantly improving the powder dispersibility in the oil phase, thus completing the present invention.
[0009] In other words, the present invention is (A) an aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols, (B) Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, (C) Oil, (D) Powder having a hydrophobic surface, and (E) Dispersants, one or more selected from (E-1) and (E-2) below (E-1) Polyglycerol fatty acid ester having 3 or more glycerol molecules (E-2) Polyhydroxystearic acid Includes, The present invention provides an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic in which the aqueous component (A) is present in an amount of 1 to 15% by mass of the total amount of the cosmetic when it is a monohydric alcohol alone, 1 to 20% by mass of the total amount of the cosmetic when it is a dihydric alcohol alone, and 1 to 45% by mass of the total amount of the cosmetic when it is a combination of a monohydric alcohol and a dihydric alcohol. [Effects of the Invention]
[0010] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention, by having the above-described structure, can obtain the feel characteristic of oil-in-water emulsions while simultaneously achieving a high cosmetic effect similar to that of water-in-oil emulsions. In other words, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention provides a refreshing feel and excellent spreadability upon application, similar to skincare cosmetics, while also allowing for the stable incorporation of the necessary amount of powder into the oil phase to obtain the coverage effect required for cosmetic purposes. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0011] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized by comprising (A) an aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols, (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, (C) an oil component, (D) a powder having a hydrophobic surface, and (E) a dispersant. The components constituting the cosmetic composition of the present invention will be described in detail below.
[0012] <(A) Water-based components> The (A) aqueous component (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "(A) component") incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention refers to one or more selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols. The monohydric alcohol is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, but examples include ethyl alcohol (ethanol), n-propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, etc., and in the present invention, ethyl alcohol is preferred. The dihydric alcohol is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, but examples include 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, and in the present invention, dipropylene glycol is preferred.
[0013] Spherical vesicles formed by surfactants have their entire surface covered with hydrophilic groups, but nanodiscs have lipophilic groups at their edges, making it difficult to generate nanodiscs in water. When monovalent and divalent alcohols are present in water, the surfactant (polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone in this invention) becomes hydrophilic due to the solvent effect, and as a result, the transition from spherical vesicles to nanodiscs is promoted.
[0014] On the other hand, when dissolving polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones such as PEG-12 dimethicone in alcohol, trihydric alcohols such as glycerin and polyhydric alcohols such as sorbitol tend to make the surfactant lipophilic and inhibit its transfer to nanodiscs. Therefore, when incorporating trihydric or higher alcohols, it is desirable that the total amount of monohydric and dihydric alcohols be greater than the total amount of trihydric or higher polyhydric alcohols.
[0015] When a monohydric alcohol is used alone, its amount is 1 to 15% by mass of the total amount of the cosmetic, and when a dihydric alcohol is used alone, its amount is 1 to 20% by mass of the total amount of the cosmetic. Furthermore, when a combination of a monohydric alcohol and a dihydric alcohol is used, the total amount is 1 to 45% by mass of the total amount of the cosmetic, preferably 1 to 35% by mass. More preferably, the concentrations of the monohydric alcohol and dihydric alcohol are blended up to an upper limit that satisfies the following formula (1). Concentration of monohydric alcohol in aqueous phase (%) / 15 + Concentration of dihydric alcohol in aqueous phase (mass%) / 20 ≤ 1 (1)
[0016] If the blending amount of monohydric alcohol alone, the blending amount of dihydric alcohol alone, or the total blending amount of monohydric alcohol and dihydric alcohol is less than 1% by mass, vesicles may not be formed or the structure may be disrupted and emulsification may not be possible. Also, if the blending amount of monohydric alcohol alone exceeds 15% by mass, the blending amount of dihydric alcohol alone exceeds 20% by mass, the blending ratio of monohydric alcohol and dihydric alcohol is outside the range of the above formula (1), or even if it is within the range of the above formula (1) and the total blending amount exceeds 45% by mass, the vesicle membrane may become too flexible or the vesicles may transfer to micelles and the stabilization effect may not be obtained.
[0017] <(B) Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone> The (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as the “(B) component”) blended in the cosmetic according to the present invention is a surfactant having a polysiloxane structure as a hydrophobic group and a polyoxyalkylene structure as a hydrophilic group, and is preferably a water-soluble silicone-based surfactant in which a part of the methyl groups of dimethicone is substituted with polyethylene glycol. Specifically, it is represented by the following formula (2).
[0018]
Chem.
[0019] In the above formula (2), R 1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and they may be the same or independently different. A is such that at least one of them is a formula (3): -(CH2)a-(C2H4O)b-(C3H6O)c-R 2 (3) is a polyoxyalkylene group represented by, and the other A is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and they may be the same or independently different. R 2 in formula (3) is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a is an integer of 1 to 6, b is an integer of 0 to 50, c is an integer of 0 to 50, and b + c is at least 5 or more. m in the above formula (2) is an integer of 1 to 200, and n is an integer of 0 to 50. In the present invention, (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, it is preferable that the HLB is less than 10 in the HLB calculation using Griffin's formula.
[0020] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, (B) PEG-12 dimethicone, in particular, is preferred among polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones, where c is 0 and b is 12 in formula (3). Furthermore, it is even more preferable that the PEG-12 dimethicone has an HLB of less than 10.
[0021] DOWSIL is a commercially available product containing PEG-12 dimethicone. TM Examples include the ES-5373, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M (all manufactured by Dow-Toray), and IM-22 (manufactured by Wacker Chemical).
[0022] The amount of component (B) is not particularly limited as long as it can form vesicles, which are precursors of nanodiscs, but for example, it is 0.1 to 5.0% by mass of the total amount of cosmetic composition, preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by mass, and more preferably 0.8 to 2.0% by mass. If the amount is less than 0.1% by mass, vesicles may not be formed sufficiently, and if it exceeds 5.0% by mass, the stability of the vesicles may be poor.
[0023] In this invention, vesicles refer to spherical closed bodies made of a bilayer film (lamellar liquid crystal). The cosmetic composition according to this invention contains nanodiscs made of the surfactant component (B). Vesicles, which are precursors of nanodiscs, can be formed by conventional methods. Specifically, vesicles made of component (B) are formed by mixing and stirring the aqueous component (A) and the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone (B). When forming vesicles, in addition to the aqueous component (A), water or an aqueous component commonly used in cosmetics may be added in an amount that does not impair the stability of the vesicles. The average particle size of the vesicles is not particularly limited, but is usually around 30 nm to 150 nm.
[0024] Here, "nanodisc" refers to a flat lamellar liquid crystal closure body that uses vesicles (lamellar liquid crystal spherical closure bodies) formed by an amphiphilic substance as a precursor, and does not contain water-soluble components inside the closure body, and has lipophilic groups at its edges. In compositions without oil, nanodiscs exist as precursor vesicles, and by adding oil and performing emulsification, the vesicles undergo a structural change (hereinafter also referred to as "transformation") into nanodiscs. The nanodiscs of the present invention are obtained by mixing an aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols with a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone to form vesicles, then adding an anionic surfactant and oil, and dispersing while applying strong stirring force. In the emulsified state, the nanodiscs exist adsorbed at the oil-water interface and contribute to emulsion stability. In this specification, since the amphiphilic substance that forms the vesicles is a silicone-based surfactant, the nanodiscs of the present invention are also referred to as "silicone nanodiscs."
[0025] <(C) Oil> The (C) oil component (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "(C) component") incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an oil component that is normally incorporated into cosmetics. Examples include hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, ester oils, higher alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, fats and oils, waxes, oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, and the like.
[0026] Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, isohexadecane, isododecane, ozokerite, squalane, squalene, pristane, paraffin, isoparaffin, ceresin, petrolatum, hydrogenated polyisobutene, olefin oligomers, and volatile hydrocarbon oils (e.g., isododecane, isohexadecane, undecane, tridecane, etc.).
[0027] Examples of silicone oils include linear polysiloxanes (e.g., dimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, etc.), cyclic polysiloxanes (e.g., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, etc.), silicone resins forming a three-dimensional network structure, silicone rubber, various modified polysiloxanes (amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, etc., excluding those with oil phase thickening effects), and acrylic silicones.
[0028] Examples of ester oils include pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, jojoba oil, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, triisostearin, glyceryl diisostearate, triethylhexanoin, phytosteryl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, isopropyl palmitate, phytosteryl macadamia nut fatty acid, tetra(behenate / Pentaerythrityl benzoate / ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, tripropylene glycol dipivalate, diisopropyl sebacate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyl octanoate, nonyl nonanoate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, 12-H Cholesteryl droxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tripropylene glycol pivalate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl di-2-heptylundecanoate, glyceryl diisostearate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, tri-2-ethylhexa Glycerin acetate, glycerin trioctanoate, glycerin triisopalmitate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate-2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glycerin trimyristate, glyceride tri-2-heptylundecanoate, methyl castor oil fatty acid ester, oleyl oleate, acetoglyceride, 2-heptylundecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate,Examples include 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipic acid, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, and triethyl citrate.
[0029] Examples of higher alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms include oleyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecinol, dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol.
[0030] Examples of oils and fats include Japanese wax, cocoa butter, hydrogenated castor oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, elm oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, cinnamon oil, Japanese tuni oil, wheat germ oil, triglycerin, glyceryl trioctanoate, and glyceryl triisopalmitate.
[0031] Examples of waxes include carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, and jojoba wax.
[0032] Among the oil components (C) listed above, it is preferable to use a polar oil in the present invention. Examples of polar oils include ester oils, particularly ester oils with an IOB value of about 0.1 to 0.6, and oil-soluble, polar ultraviolet absorbers.
[0033] In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the dispersion stability of the powder is enhanced when the proportion of polar oil to the total amount of (C) oil is 50% or more by mass. Therefore, in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, it is preferable that the proportion of polar oil to the total amount of (C) oil is 50% or more.
[0034] Specific examples of ester oils with an IOB value of approximately 0.1 to 0.6 include, but are not limited to, diisopropyl sebacate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, jojoba oil, phytosteryl / octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, triisostearin, glyceryl diisostearate, triethylhexanoin, phytosteryl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate, isopropyl palmitate, phytosteryl macadamia nut fatty acid, pentaerythrityl tetra(behenate / benzoate / ethylhexanoate), ethylhexyl palmitate, myristyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, tripropylene glycol dipivalate, and isodecyl neopentanoate.
[0035] Specific examples of oil-soluble, polar UV absorbers include those commonly used in sunscreen cosmetics, and are not particularly limited. However, specific examples include organic UV absorbers such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, dimethicone diethyl benzalmalonate, polysilicone-15, t-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, oxybenzone-3, methylene bisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and drometrizole trisiloxane. The polar oil used in this invention may be one type or a combination of two or more types.
[0036] In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, from the viewpoint of further improving powder dispersibility, it is preferable that the proportion of silicone oil to the total amount of oils is 50% or less by mass, and more preferably 25% or less. Furthermore, in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, when volatile silicone oil is included as (C) oil, it is preferable that the proportion of volatile silicone oil to the total amount of oil included be 25% or less by mass. Note that in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, it is not necessary to include volatile silicone oil as an oil, so the lower limit of the proportion of volatile silicone oil to the total amount of oil included is 0%.
[0037] In this invention, volatile silicone oil refers to a silicone oil whose evaporation rate at 25°C is 30% or more per hour. Here, the evaporation rate refers to the value of the per hour weight change rate measured by gravimetric method under conditions of 25°C by placing filter paper on a glass petri dish, dropping approximately 0.2g of the sample onto it. Specific examples of volatile silicone oil include isododecane and low-viscosity volatile silicones (low-viscosity dimethicone) with an average degree of polymerization of less than 650. Commercially available volatile silicone oils include Creasil ID CG (manufactured by Shima Trading Co., Ltd.) and KF-96L-1.5CS (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.). The evaporation rate of Creasil ID CG is 90% or more, and the evaporation rate of KF-96L-1.5CS is approximately 50%.
[0038] The amount of (C) oil incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount that is normally used when incorporating powder into the oil phase, but for example, it may be 1 to 40% by mass of the total amount of cosmetic composition. If the amount of (C) oil incorporated exceeds 40% by mass, the stability and usability tend to decrease.
[0039] <(D) Powder having a hydrophobic surface> The (D) powder having a hydrophobic surface incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "component (D)") is not particularly limited and refers to powders that are typically incorporated into the oil phase of a cosmetic composition for purposes such as scattering ultraviolet rays, improving usability, and coloring. Generally, the average particle size of powders used for the purpose of ultraviolet scattering is 5 to 100 nm, the average particle size of powders used for the purpose of improving usability is 1 to 30 μm, and the average particle size of powders used for the purpose of coloring is 100 nm to 1 μm. The (D) component of the present invention is preferably a pigment with an average particle size of 100 nm to 1 μm. The (D) component of the present invention may be either untreated or treated to be hydrophobic, as long as the particle surface is hydrophobic.
[0040] Specific examples of pigments include iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron titanate, γ-iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, yellow ochre, black iron oxide, carbon black, lower titanium oxide, mango violet, cobalt violet, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, ultramarine, and Prussian blue. Among these, it is preferable to use pigment-grade iron oxides such as yellow iron oxide, red iron oxide, and black iron oxide, and pigment-grade titanium oxide.
[0041] Hydrophobic surface treatment agents are not particularly limited, but examples include silicone treatment agents, fluorine compound treatment agents, amino acid treatment agents, fatty acid treatment agents, fatty acid soap treatment agents, fatty acid ester treatment agents, and others such as lecithin treatment agents and alkyl phosphate ester treatment agents.
[0042] Examples of silicone treatment agents include silicone oils such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane; alkylsilanes such as methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, and octyltrimethoxysilane; and fluoroalkylsilanes such as trifluoromethylethyltrimethoxysilane and heptadecafluorodecyltrimethoxysilane. Examples of fluorine compound treatment agents include perfluoroalkyl phosphate esters and perfluoroalcohols. Examples of amino acid treatment agents include N-acylglutamic acid, N-acylaspartic acid, and N-acyllysine. Examples of fatty acid treatment agents include palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, rosinic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Examples of fatty acid soap treatment agents include aluminum stearate, calcium stearate, and 12-hydroxystearate. Examples of fatty acid ester treatment agents include dextrin fatty acid esters, cholesterol fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, and starch fatty acid esters. These hydrophobic treatments can be carried out according to conventional methods. In particular, surface treatment with a silicone treatment agent is preferred from the viewpoint of improving the feel and powder dispersibility.
[0043] The amount of component (D) is not particularly limited, but in order to obtain the desired coverage, the lower limit is 4% by mass or more, 5% by mass or more, or 6% by mass or more relative to the total amount of cosmetic, and the upper limit is 30% by mass or less, 25% by mass or less, or 20% by mass or less. The blending range is, for example, 4 to 30% by mass, preferably 6 to 20% by mass. If the blending amount is less than 4% by mass, sufficient coverage may not be obtained, and if it exceeds 30% by mass, stability tends to deteriorate.
[0044] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is an oil-in-water powder composition in which component (D) is dispersed in oil droplets that form the internal phase.
[0045] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the oil phase is preferably 1 to 50% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 30% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0046] <(E) Dispersant> The (E) dispersant incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "(E) component") refers to one or more selected from (E-1) polyglycerin fatty acid esters having three or more glycerin molecules, and (E-2) polyhydroxystearic acid.
[0047] (E-1) Polyglycerol fatty acid ester having 3 or more glycerol molecules The (E-1) polyglycerin fatty acid ester having three or more glycerin molecules (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "component (E-1)") incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an esterification product of polyglycerin, which is formed by the condensation polymerization of three or more glycerin molecules, and a fatty acid.
[0048] Specific examples of component (E-1) of the present invention include polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 distearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 tristearate, polyglyceryl-4 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 oleate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, polyglyceryl-6 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 tristearate, polyglyceryl-6 tetrabehenate, polyglyceryl-6 pentastearate, polyglyceryl-6 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, and polyglyceryl-6 myristate. Glyceryl-10, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Linoleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Tristearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Trioleate, Polyglyceryl-10 Pentastearate, Polyglyceryl Pentahydroxystearate Examples include polyglyceryl-10, polyglyceryl-10 pentaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 heptastearate, polyglyceryl-10 heptastearate, polyglyceryl-10 decastearate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate, polyglyceryl-10 decamademia nut fatty acid, and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate. Among these, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate are preferred. It is also possible to use commercially available products as the (E-1) component, such as SY Glister CRS-75 (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.) and Emulium® Illustro (manufactured by Gattofossé).
[0049] (E-2) Polyhydroxystearic acid The (E-2) polyhydroxystearic acid incorporated in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "(E-2) component") refers to a compound oligomerized by the formation of an ester bond in hydroxystearic acid, and is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics. The degree of polymerization of polyhydroxystearic acid is not particularly limited, but for example, it can be 4 to 8. It is also possible to use commercially available products as the (E-2) component, such as HS Oligomer 600 (manufactured by Toyokuni Oil Co., Ltd.) and Saracos HS-6C (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Co., Ltd.).
[0050] The amount of component (E) is preferably 0.1 to 5.0% by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 3.0% by mass, and even more preferably 0.8 to 2.0% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.1% by mass, the dispersibility of the powder tends to decrease, and if it exceeds 5.0% by mass, the usability and stability tend to decrease.
[0051] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, emulsion stability can be further improved by incorporating (F) an anionic surfactant (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "(F) component") in addition to the components (A) to (E) mentioned above.
[0052] The (F) anionic surfactant incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be any surfactant commonly used in cosmetics, and is other than the (B) silicone-based surfactants such as polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones mentioned above, and refers to a surfactant having an anionic hydrophilic group such as a carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, or phosphate structure. The incorporation of the anionic surfactant stabilizes the nanodiscs.
[0053] In particular, it is preferable to use an anionic surfactant with a Krafft point higher than room temperature. If the Krafft point of the anionic surfactant is lower than room temperature, the silicone-based surfactant and the anionic surfactant tend to mix and interact more easily, which tends to hinder the transfer from vesicles to nanodiscs.
[0054] The (F) anionic surfactant incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a sulfonate-type anionic surfactant. Examples of sulfonate-type anionic surfactants include disulfosuccinate, alkylallyl sulfonate, alkyl ether sulfonate, sulfosuccinate, acylmethyltaurate, acyl taurate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and potassium cocoyl glutamate. Among these, it is preferable to select and use from acylmethyltaurate, potassium cetyl phosphate, and potassium cocoyl glutamate.
[0055] In the present invention, it is particularly preferable to incorporate an N-acylmethyl taurate as an anionic surfactant. Furthermore, among the N-acylmethyl taurates represented by the following formula (4), it is preferable to use an N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurate.
[0056] [ka]
[0057] The amount of component (F) is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by mass, and even more preferably 0.01 to 0.06% by mass, relative to the total amount of the cosmetic. If the amount is less than 0.01% by mass, the nanodiscs may not be sufficiently stable, and if it exceeds 1% by mass, the vesicles, which are precursors of the nanodiscs, may be solubilized or the formation of nanodiscs may be hindered. Furthermore, it is preferable that the ratio of (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone to (F) anionic surfactant is 1:0.01 to 1:0.06 by mass.
[0058] Furthermore, in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, (G) an oil-phase thickener (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as "(G) component") may be added from the viewpoint of further improving emulsification stability and feel. Examples of (G) oil-phase thickeners incorporated into the cosmetic composition according to the present invention include waxes, organically modified clay minerals, dextrin fatty acid esters, glyceryl fatty acid esters, amino acid gelling agents, sucrose fatty acid esters, fatty acids or their salts. Among these, the use of wax is preferred.
[0059] The wax is a solid or paste-like substance at 25°C and is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics. Examples include highly polymerized methylpolysiloxanes such as highly polymerized dimethylpolysiloxane, highly polymerized methylphenylsiloxane, and highly polymerized methylvinylpolysiloxane, highly polymerized amino-modified methylpolysiloxane, alkyl-modified silicones (e.g., stearyl dimethicone, alkyl (C30-C45) methicone, etc.), polyamide-modified silicones, and long-chain alkoxy-modified silanes (e.g., stearoxytrimethylsilane). One or more of these can be selected and used as needed. Examples of commercially available silicone waxes include Silicone Wax AMS-C30 (Alkyl (C30-C45) Methicone, manufactured by Dow Chemical Japan / Dow Toray).
[0060] Organically modified clay minerals are a type of colloidal hydrated aluminum silicate with a three-layer structure, and are typically obtained by modifying clay minerals represented by the following general formula (5) with quaternary ammonium salt type cationic surfactants. (X,Y) 2-3 (Si,Al)4O 10 (OH)2Z 1 / 3 • nH2O (5) (However, X=Al, Fe(III), Mn(III), Cr(III), Y=Mg, Fe(II), Ni, Zn, Li, Z=K, Na, Ca)
[0061] Specific examples of organically modified clay minerals include dimethyldistearylammonium hectorite (disteardimonium hectorite), dimethylalkylammonium hectorite, benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite, and magnesium aluminum silicate treated with distearyldimethylammonium chloride. Commercially available options include Benton 27 (benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride-treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.) and Benton 38 (distearyldimethylammonium chloride-treated hectorite: manufactured by Elementis Japan Co., Ltd.).
[0062] Dextrin fatty acid esters are esters of dextrin or reduced dextrin with higher fatty acids, and are not particularly limited as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics. It is preferable to use dextrin or reduced dextrin with an average degree of polymerization of 3 to 100. Furthermore, it is preferable to use saturated fatty acids with 8 to 22 carbon atoms as the constituent fatty acids of the dextrin fatty acid ester. Specifically, examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin oleate, dextrin stearate, dextrin myristate, and (palmitic acid / 2-ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin.
[0063] Glyceryl fatty acid esters are esterification reaction products obtained by reacting glycerin, a dibasic acid having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, and a fatty acid having 8 to 28 carbon atoms (excluding dibasic acids). They can be used without particular limitations as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics. Specifically, examples include (behenic acid / isostearate / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, and (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) polyglyceryl-10.
[0064] Examples of amino acid gelling agents include N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide (dibutyllauroyl glutamide), N-2-ethylhexanoyl-L-glutamic acid dibutylamide (dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamide), polyamide-8, polyamide-3, and the like.
[0065] Sucrose fatty acid esters can preferably be those in which the fatty acid is linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and has 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Specifically, examples include sucrose caprylic acid ester, sucrose capric acid ester, sucrose lauric acid ester, sucrose myristic acid ester, sucrose palmitic acid ester, sucrose stearate ester, sucrose oleic acid ester, sucrose erucic acid ester, and the like.
[0066] The fatty acids used can be those that are solid at room temperature, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid. Salts of these fatty acids can include calcium salts, magnesium salts, and aluminum salts.
[0067] (G) The oil-phase thickener is a selective ingredient in the cosmetic composition of the present invention and is not required to be included. However, if it is included, it is preferable to include it in an amount that allows the effect of the addition to be recognized, and in a limit that does not cause adverse effects such as impairing the feel of the product due to excessive addition. The preferred amount of (G) the oil-phase thickener in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is about 0.1 to 10% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0068] In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, an aqueous thickener may be added to further improve skin compatibility and emulsification stability. The aqueous thickener can be any thickener that is normally usable in cosmetics and is not particularly limited. Examples include plant-derived polymers such as gum arabic, tragacanth gum, galactan, guar gum, carrageenan, pectin, quince seed (quince) extract, brown algae powder, and agar; microbial polymers such as hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, dextran, and pullulan; starches such as starch, carboxymethyl starch, and methylhydroxy starch; celluloses such as methylcellulose, nitrocellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose, and cellulose powder; vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinylpyrrolidone, and carboxyvinyl polymer; polyacrylic acid and Examples include salts thereof and acrylic polymers such as polyacrylimide; taurate polymers such as (dimethylacrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate) crosspolymer, (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone) copolymer, and (ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate) crosspolymer; acrylate polymers such as acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymers such as acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer and acrylates / alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30) crosspolymer; hydrophobic modified polyether urethanes such as PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer; and glycyrrhizic acid, alginic acid, and their salts.
[0069] Since the aqueous thickener is a selective ingredient in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, it is not mandatory to include it. However, if it is included, it is preferable to include it in an amount that allows the effect of the addition to be observed, and in a limit that does not cause adverse effects such as impairing the feel of the product due to excessive addition. The preferred amount of water-soluble thickener in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is about 0.1 to 10% by mass relative to the total amount of the cosmetic composition.
[0070] The water used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be selected as needed, such as ion-exchanged water, purified water, tap water, or natural water. The amount used is the remaining amount relative to the sum of the essential components and other optional components according to the present invention (mass %) of the total cosmetic composition. Generally, an amount of about 30 to 70% by mass relative to the total cosmetic composition is preferable.
[0071] In addition to the above-mentioned components, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain, as necessary and insofar as it does not impair the purpose and effects of the present invention, other optional additives commonly used in topical skin preparations such as cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, such as polyhydric alcohols, nonionic surfactants, film-forming agents, astringents, dispersants other than component (E) above (for example, distearyldimonium chloride), chelating agents, pH adjusters, antioxidants, whitening agents, fragrances, etc. However, it is not limited to these examples.
[0072] The vesicles, which are precursors to the nanodiscs according to the present invention, can be produced as an aqueous vesicle dispersion by thoroughly mixing (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone with (A) aqueous component, and then dropping the mixture dropwise into an aqueous phase containing aqueous components other than component (A) while stirring. The mixing state of (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone and (A) aqueous component only needs to be confirmed to be transparent and in a single-phase state, which can be achieved, for example, by mixing at room temperature to 90°C for 1 to 30 minutes. By this method, vesicle particles with an average particle diameter of 30 to 150 nm, as measured by dynamic light scattering, can be obtained.
[0073] The vesicles according to the present invention can also be manufactured by conventional methods in which an oily component is retained within the bilayer film of the vesicle. Specifically, the vesicles according to the present invention may be manufactured in which an oil-soluble component such as a fragrance is added and mixed in the step of mixing (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone and (A) aqueous component, thereby retaining the oil-soluble component within the bilayer film of the vesicle.
[0074] The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention is stabilized by adding oil to an aqueous phase containing vesicles and dispersing it while applying strong stirring force, thereby forming a three-phase structure of aqueous phase-nanodisk phase-oil phase in which nanodisks (phase) transferred from the vesicles adhere to the oil phase (oil droplets). Therefore, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized in that nanodiscs made of polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone are attached (localized) to the oil-water interface, that is, around oil droplets made of the oil phase. The major axis of the nanodiscs is 20 nm to 1000 nm.
[0075] The three-phase structure of aqueous phase-nanodisk phase-oil phase in the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention can be formed by a conventional method. Specifically, polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is dropped into the aqueous component under stirring to form vesicle particles and obtain a vesicle aqueous dispersion. An oily component, which has been separately mixed and dissolved, is added to this vesicle aqueous dispersion and dispersed with strong stirring force. This causes the vesicles to transfer to nanodisks, resulting in a three-phase structure of aqueous phase-nanodisk phase-oil phase. When an anionic surfactant is to be added, it is preferable to add it to the vesicle aqueous dispersion before adding the oily component. Since oil droplets consisting of the oily component are emulsified and dispersed in the aqueous phase, and nanodisks are localized on the surface of the oil droplet particles, the emulsion stability is excellent, as is the feel on the skin (freshness, non-stickiness). The stirring device used for stirring is not particularly limited, and for example, a homomixer, disperser, etc., can be used.
[0076] In this invention, the vesicle particles formed in the aqueous phase can be molded to a sufficiently small particle size by applying strong shear using a homomixer or the like, and then uniformly dispersed in the aqueous phase. The degree of strong shear is not particularly limited, but is usually set to about 5 minutes at a homomixer speed of 7,000 to 12,000 revolutions per minute.
[0077] In the present invention, when an (F) anionic surfactant is incorporated, it is preferable to form vesicle particles in the aqueous phase, add the (F) anionic surfactant to the vesicle dispersion, and then add an oily component to emulsify it. Therefore, the method for producing an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to the present invention comprises: a vesicle-forming step of mixing (A) an aqueous component and (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone to form vesicles; optionally, a step of adding (F) an anionic surfactant to the vesicle dispersion obtained in the vesicle-forming step; and an emulsification step of emulsifying the mixture obtained in the above step with an oily component separately mixed and dissolved while applying stirring and shearing force.
[0078] In the vesicle formation step, (A) an aqueous component and (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone may be dissolved in advance, and the dissolved product may be mixed with the remaining aqueous phase component to obtain a vesicle dispersion in which vesicles are dispersed in the aqueous phase, or (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone may be mixed and stirred into an aqueous phase containing (A) an aqueous component and an aqueous component other than (A) to obtain a vesicle dispersion in which vesicles are dispersed in the aqueous phase.
[0079] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention has a refreshing feel characteristic of oil-in-water emulsions and exhibits excellent UV protection. Furthermore, the nanodisc-containing emulsion according to the present invention can contain a large amount of oil, which is not possible with conventional solubilizers, yet still provides a refreshing feel.
[0080] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be suitably used in various dosage forms such as cream, emulsion, and liquid. In terms of product form, it can be a skincare cosmetic such as sunscreen that provides coverage for skin irregularities, blemishes, and freckles, or a makeup cosmetic such as a makeup base or foundation. [Examples]
[0081] The present invention will be further described below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the amount of each component is expressed as a mass % of the system in which it is incorporated. Before describing each example in detail, the evaluation method used will be explained.
[0082] 1. Stability evaluation The prepared oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was stored in a constant temperature bath at 50°C for one month, and its condition was observed. For cosmetic products showing no change after one month of storage, a rolling test was performed. In the rolling test, half the volume of the prepared oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic was filled into a cylindrical container as a sample, and the sample was rotated at 45 rpm for 4 hours at room temperature using a rolling tester (manufactured by Nigorikawa Rika Kogyo Co., Ltd.). Changes in the cosmetic's condition were observed. After observation, the product was evaluated based on the following criteria. <Evaluation Criteria> A: No changes were observed after one month of storage, and no changes were observed in rolling tests either. B: No changes were observed after one month of storage, but changes were observed in the rolling test. C: After one month of storage, a slight change in viscosity or an increase in emulsified particles was observed, but this does not affect its use. D: After one month of storage, a significant change in viscosity or an increase in emulsion particles is observed, which may impair its use.
[0083] 2. Usability Evaluation A real-world usage test was conducted by three expert panelists. The feel of each sample when applied to the skin (moisture, lack of powderiness, and ease of application) was evaluated based on the following criteria. <Evaluation Criteria> A: The response regarding the user experience of the product was that it was excellent. B: Responded that the user experience was excellent. C: Responded that the user experience of the product was somewhat inferior. D: Responded that the user experience of the product was very poor.
[0084] (Examples and Comparative Examples) Liquid foundations having the compositions listed in the table were prepared. Specifically, components (A) and (B) in the table were mixed and stirred, then component (F) was mixed with other aqueous components to obtain an aqueous phase solution, and the oil phase solution obtained by separately mixing oily components and powder components was mixed into the aqueous phase solution while stirring to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic. The stability and feel of the prepared samples were evaluated according to the evaluation method described above. The results are shown in the table.
[0085] [Table 1] *1: Emulium® Illustro (manufactured by Gatfossé)
[0086] Table 1 shows cosmetic compositions prepared by substituting various oily components for component (E) of the present invention. Polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having two glycerin molecules, and sorbitan sesquiisostearate, a fatty acid ester of sorbitol (a polyhydric alcohol but tetravalent), are both compounds used to improve the dispersibility of powders in the oil phase. In the cosmetics of the present invention, cosmetics using polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (Comparative Example 1) or sorbitan sesquiisostearate (Comparative Example 2) instead of component (E) both exhibited poor stability, and the cosmetic of Comparative Example 2 also showed inferior freshness and spreadability.
[0087] Polyglycerin-modified silicone is listed in Patent Document 1 as an ingredient that improves the dispersibility of powders blended into the oil phase of oil-in-water emulsions. In the present invention, sufficient stability could not be obtained even when bisbutyldimethicone polyglyceryl-3, a polyglycerin-modified silicone, was blended into the oil phase together with the powder (Comparative Example 3). Comparative Example 4, a cosmetic composition containing PEG-6 distearate, which is commonly used as an emulsifier in the oil phase, provided a sufficiently good feel during use, but its stability was poor. Furthermore, isostearic acid is a compound that has been conventionally used as a powder dispersant. In the present invention, the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 5, which contained isostearic acid, provided a sufficiently good feel when used, but its stability was poor.
[0088] On the other hand, the cosmetic compositions of Examples 1 to 3, which contained component (E) of the present invention, exhibited excellent stability and feel.
[0089] [Table 2]
[0090] Table 2 compares the stability evaluation of the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 6, which was emulsified using a hydrophilic surfactant (POE(20) behenyl ether) commonly used when preparing oil-in-water emulsions instead of the nanodisc emulsification method of the present invention, with the cosmetic composition of Example 1 of the present invention. While the cosmetic composition of Comparative Example 6 exhibited poor stability, the cosmetic composition of Example 1 of the present invention demonstrated excellent stability.
[0091] (Example prescription) The following are examples of formulations for the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition of the present invention. It goes without saying that the present invention is not limited in any way by these formulation examples, but is specified by the claims. All amounts are expressed as mass % of the total product volume.
[0092] Example Formulation 1: Liquid Foundation Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%) water residue Glycerin 7 Ethanol 6 Dipropylene glycol 4.5 Potassium hydroxide 0.06 Sodium pyrosulfite 0.003 Glycylglycine 0.05 EDTA-3Na 0.05 Polyvinyl acetate / polyvinyl alcohol mixture 2 PEG-12 Dimethicone 1.6 Sodium stearoyl methyl taurate 0.1 PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.5 (Acryloyldimethyltaurate Ammonium / VP) Copolymer 0.095 (Acryloyldimethyltaurate ammonium / Methacrylate beheneth- 25) Crosspolymer 0.1 Carbomer 0.05 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate) Crosspolymer 0.1 Tamarind gum 0.03 Alkyl (C30-45) Methicone 0.3 Dimethicone (1.5CS) 3 Isodecyl neopentanoate 2 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7 Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate 1 Tocopherol acetate 0.05 Distearyldimonium chloride 0.1 Silicone surface treatment titanium oxide 6.5 Silicone surface treatment iron oxide (red) 0.69 Silicone surface-treated iron oxide (yellow) 1.69 Silicone surface-treated iron oxide (black) 0.02 Barium sulfate 1 Silica 0.5 Preservative 0.5 Sodium acetylated hyaluronate 0.01 2-O-ethyl ascorbic acid 0.005 Total 100
Claims
1. (A) an aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and dihydric alcohols, (B) Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, (C) Oils containing UV absorbers, (D) Powder having a hydrophobic surface, and (E) A dispersant which is one or more selected from (E-1) and (E-2) below: (E-1) Polyglycerol fatty acid ester having three or more glycerol molecules, (E-2) Polyhydroxystearic acid, Includes, The aqueous component (A) is 1 to 15% by mass of the total amount of cosmetic when it is a monohydric alcohol alone, 1 to 20% by mass of the total amount of cosmetic when it is a dihydric alcohol alone, and the total amount when it is a combination of a monohydric alcohol and a dihydric alcohol is 1 to 45% by mass of the total amount of cosmetic. An oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic comprising the aforementioned (D) powder having a hydrophobic surface and an ultraviolet absorber in the same oil phase.
2. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the proportion of silicone oil in the oil component (C) is 50% or less by mass.
3. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of component (D) is 4 to 30% by mass.
4. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the (E) component is polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate.
5. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the (B) component is PEG-12 dimethicone.
6. Furthermore, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising (F) an anionic surfactant.
7. Furthermore, the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising (G) an oil-phase thickener.
8. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the (G) component is a wax.
9. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein nanodiscs comprising the above-mentioned component (B) are attached to the oil-water interface.
10. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1, which is a cosmetic for makeup.