Cosmetics
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2021212975
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2020-12-28
- Filing Date
- 2021-12-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-09-01
- Estimated Expiration
- 2041-12-27
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Figure 0007913864000001 
Figure 0007913864000002 
Figure 0007913864000003
Abstract
Description
[Technical Field]
[0001] This invention relates to cosmetics. [Background technology]
[0002] Traditionally, unsaturated fatty acids, including oleic acid and palmitoleic acid, have been known to affect the skin, causing mild inflammation, rough skin texture, noticeable pores and other unevenness, and makeup breakdown. Various studies have been conducted to improve these effects of unsaturated fatty acids on the skin. For example, Patent Document 1 describes that an unsaturated fatty acid adsorbent consisting of oleic acid ester surfactant-coated hexagonal plate-shaped zinc oxide can suitably adsorb and immobilize unsaturated fatty acids contained in sebum, and can prevent makeup from smudging when incorporated into cosmetics. Patent Document 2 describes that a cosmetic composition containing silicone microparticles, comprising silicone elastomer spherical microparticles and a polyorganosilsesquioxane coating its surface, can suppress changes in the properties of makeup cosmetics, changes in color, shine, etc., caused by sebum. Patent Document 3 describes that a skin secretion inhibitory composition containing butcher's broom extract can improve skin symptoms associated with excessive sebum secretion.
[0003] On the other hand, hydroxypropyl cellulose has traditionally been used as a water-soluble thickener in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and other products. For example, Patent Document 4 describes an oil-in-water alcohol-type emulsion composition having (a) an alcohol phase containing hydroxypropyl cellulose and exhibiting a gel-like state, (b) an oil phase containing dextrin palmitate and exhibiting a gel-like state, and (c) an aqueous phase containing polyvinyl alcohol and carboxyvinyl polymer with a degree of saponification of 70-98 mol% and exhibiting a gel-like state, which is less irritating and highly stable when used on the skin. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]
[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2018-83766 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2011-105662 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2017-178858 [Patent Document 4] Japanese Patent Publication No. 2009-114180 [Overview of the project] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]
[0005] In conventional technologies, such as those described in Patent Documents 1 and 2, when sebum is adsorbed with powder, while there is a makeup-lasting effect due to the localized sebum-capturing ability on the skin surface where the powder is present, no improvement in the skin itself is obtained. Also, as described in Patent Document 3, when plant extracts are used, sebum secretion is suppressed, but the effect on the skin is not improved by capturing unsaturated fatty acids. [Means for solving the problem]
[0006] The inventors have discovered that highly substituted hydroxypropylcellulose specifically captures unsaturated fatty acids, including oleic acid, which are components of sebum, from the outside, thereby improving skin condition. Furthermore, they have found that by using a combination of liquid dihydric alcohol and a specific water-soluble polymer, a cosmetic composition with a high effect in suppressing skin roughness caused by sebum can be obtained.
[0007] The present invention comprises the following components (A), (B), and (C): (A) A polymer having a cellulose backbone, in which substituents selected from hydroxypropyl groups, hydroxybutyl groups, and amide groups are substituted at a rate of 2.4 or more per glucose unit. (B) Liquid dihydric alcohol, (C) Water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group This invention relates to a cosmetic product containing a component (C) and having a mass ratio (C) / (A) of component (A) of 0.001 to 0.3. [Effects of the Invention]
[0008] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can improve skin conditions such as redness, unevenness, brightness, and smoothness (roughness of the skin surface) of bare skin. When foundation or the like is applied, it adheres well, provides a uniform finish without unevenness, and the makeup lasts a long time. [Modes for carrying out the invention]
[0009] Component (A) used in the present invention is a polymer having a cellulose backbone, in which substituents selected from hydroxypropyl groups, hydroxybutyl groups, and amide groups are substituted at a rate of 2.4 or more per glucose unit. Component (A) is a cellulose in which a substituent selected from a hydroxypropyl group, a hydroxybutyl group, and an amide group is substituted on the hydroxyl group at a rate of 2.4 or more per glucose unit (degree of substitution of 2.4 or more), with a degree of substitution of 3 or more, preferably 10 or less, and more preferably 5 or less. Here, the degree of substitution is the average number of substituted hydroxyl groups per glucose unit. If substituents such as hydroxypropyl groups also contain hydroxyl groups, these substituent hydroxyl groups are also etherified during the reaction, and the degree of molar substitution, which is the number of substituents per glucose unit, becomes greater than 3, for example, for a hydroxypropyl group. The degree of substitution can be determined by the Zeisel method [Analytical Chemistry, Vol. 51, No. 13, 2172 (1979), see "The Fifteenth Revised Japanese Pharmacopoeia (section on analytical methods for hydroxypropyl cellulose)"].
[0010] As component (A), hydroxypropylcellulose is preferred from the viewpoint of improving skin condition, improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, and enhancing its longevity, by gelling unsaturated fatty acids to improve their capture ability. Furthermore, it is preferable that the polymer of component (A) does not have substituents other than hydroxypropyl groups, hydroxybutyl groups, and amide groups.
[0011] Furthermore, component (A) is preferably of an average molecular weight of 40,000 to 2,500,000, and more preferably of 100,000 to 2,500,000, from the viewpoint of improving skin condition, improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, and enhancing its longevity, by gelling the unsaturated fatty acids. Here, the average molecular weight is measured by GPC (Gel Permeation Chromatography).
[0012] Such polymers can be produced, for example, by adding propylene oxide to alkali cellulose activated by acceleration. For example, hydroxypropyl cellulose, which has a hydroxypropyl group substituent, is produced by performing an extremely complicated activation treatment called acceleration or mercerization, in which cellulose is mixed with a large amount of water and a large excess of alkali metal hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide in a slurry state to form alkali cellulose, and then reacting this alkali cellulose with propylene oxide.
[0013] Furthermore, as component (A), commercially available products such as HPC-SSL, HPC-SL, HPC-L, HPC-M, HPC-H, HPC-VH (all manufactured by Nippon Soda Co., Ltd.), KLUCEL MF Pharm, and KLUCEL HPC (manufactured by Ashland) can be used.
[0014] Component (A) can be used in combination of one or more types. From the viewpoint of improving the capture ability by gelling unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin condition, improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, and enhancing its longevity, it is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.2% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, and even more preferably 1% by mass or more in the total composition. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of usability that improves the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, and enhances its longevity, it is preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, even more preferably 1.8% by mass or less, and even more preferably 1.6% by mass or less. In addition, the content of component (A) is preferably 0.1 to 6% by mass in the total composition, more preferably 0.2 to 3% by mass, even more preferably 0.3 to 1.8% by mass, and even more preferably 1 to 1.6% by mass.
[0015] In the case of component (B), a liquid dihydric alcohol is defined as one that is fluid at 25°C. Examples of liquid dihydric alcohols include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, and pentylene glycol. Of these, from the viewpoint of enhancing the scavenging effect of unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin condition, and improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, as well as enhancing its longevity, it is preferable to include at least one selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and propanediol, and it is more preferable to include 1,3-butylene glycol or propanediol.
[0016] Component (B) can be used alone or in combination of two or more types. From the viewpoint of improving the dispersibility of component (A), enhancing the scavenging effect of unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin condition, and improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, as well as enhancing its longevity, it is preferably 2% by mass or more, more preferably 3% by mass or more, and even more preferably 4% by mass or more in the total composition. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of usability, it is preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 12% by mass or less, and even more preferably 10% by mass or less. In addition, the content of component (B) is preferably 2 to 15% by mass in the total composition, more preferably 3 to 12% by mass, and even more preferably 4 to 10% by mass.
[0017] In the present invention, the mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.05 or higher, more preferably 0.07 or higher, and even more preferably 0.1 or higher, from the viewpoint of gelling unsaturated fatty acids, enhancing the scavenging effect of unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin condition, and improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, as well as enhancing its longevity. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of improving makeup evenness and makeup application, it is preferably 0.6 or lower, more preferably 0.45 or lower, and even more preferably 0.35 or lower. In addition, the mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.05 to 0.6, more preferably 0.07 to 0.45, and even more preferably 0.1 to 0.35.
[0018] Component (C) is a water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group. Here, "water-soluble" refers to a substance that dissolves in pure water at 25°C at a concentration of at least 0.1% by mass. The polymer of component (C) only needs to have a carboxyl group, and an acrylic acid polymer is preferred from the viewpoint of gelling unsaturated fatty acids to enhance the capture effect, improving skin condition, and improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, as well as enhancing its longevity.
[0019] Examples of acrylic acid-based polymers include polymers containing acrylic acid and methacrylic acid as constituent units, such as polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, carboxyvinyl polymer, acrylic acid / alkyl methacrylate copolymer, and acrylic acid / alkyl (C10-30) acrylate crosspolymer.
[0020] Furthermore, as the polymer of component (C), commercially available products such as (acrylates / alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) crosspolymer (product name: PEMULEN TR-1 POLYMER (Lubrizol Advanced Materials)), carboxyvinyl polymer (product name: Carbopol 980 POLYMER (Lubrizol Advanced Materials)), and methacrylic acid copolymer (product name: Eudragit L100 (Evonic)) can be used.
[0021] Component (C) can be used in combination of one or more types. From the viewpoint of gelling unsaturated fatty acids to enhance the capture effect, improve skin condition, and improve the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, as well as enhancing its longevity, the content is preferably 0.001% by mass or more, more preferably 0.005% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, and also preferably 0.15% by mass or less, more preferably 0.1% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.08% by mass or less. Furthermore, the content of component (C) is preferably 0.001 to 0.15% by mass of the total composition, more preferably 0.005 to 0.1% by mass, and even more preferably 0.01 to 0.08% by mass.
[0022] In the present invention, the mass ratio (C) / (A) of component (C) to component (A) is preferably 0.001 or more, preferably 0.005 or more, more preferably 0.008 or more, and still preferably 0.01 or more, and also preferably 0.3 or less, preferably 0.15 or less, more preferably 0.12 or less, and still preferably 0.05 or less, from the viewpoint of gelling unsaturated fatty acids to enhance the capture effect, improve skin condition, and improve the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, as well as enhancing its longevity.
[0023] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain glycerin fatty acid esters, which can improve emulsification stability, the smooth and even application of makeup such as foundation, and its longevity. From the viewpoint of emulsification stability, glycerol monofatty acid esters are preferred as glycerol fatty acid esters. Glycerol monofatty acid esters are preferably those having fatty acid residues with 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably those having fatty acid residues with 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably those having fatty acid residues with 18 to 24 carbon atoms. Furthermore, the "fatty acids" constituting the glycerol monofatty acid ester may be saturated fatty acids or unsaturated fatty acids, and may be straight-chain fatty acids or branched fatty acids. Glycerol monofatty acid esters are preferably those having saturated fatty acid residues, and more preferably those having straight-chain saturated fatty acid residues. Examples of glycerin monofatty acid esters include glycerin monolaurate, glycerin monomyristate, glycerin monopalmitate, glycerin monostearate, glycerin monobehenate, glycerin monooleate, glycerin monoisostearate, and glycerin monolinoleate. Among these, glycerin monostearate and glycerin monobehenate are preferred.
[0024] Glycerin fatty acid esters can be used individually or in combination of two or more types. From the viewpoint of emulsification stability and improvement of makeup application and evenness when foundation is applied, the content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, and even more preferably 2% by mass or less. Furthermore, the content of glycerin fatty acid esters is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 3% by mass, and even more preferably 0.5 to 2% by mass.
[0025] The cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain higher alcohols, which can improve emulsification stability and the smooth application and evenness of makeup when foundation or the like is applied. The higher alcohol is preferably a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably a monohydric alcohol having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably a monohydric alcohol having 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The higher alcohol may be linear or branched, and may be saturated or unsaturated, but linear saturated or unsaturated alcohols are preferred. Examples of higher alcohols include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and oleyl alcohol. Among these, cetanol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are preferred, with cetanol and behenyl alcohol being more preferred.
[0026] Higher alcohols can be used individually or in combination of two or more types. From the viewpoint of emulsification stability and improvement of makeup application and evenness when foundation is applied, the content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, and even more preferably 2% by mass or less. Furthermore, the content of higher alcohols is preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 3% by mass, and even more preferably 0.5 to 2% by mass.
[0027] The emulsified composition of the present invention can further contain ceramides, and can improve skin conditions (such as moisture content). Examples of ceramides include those represented by general formula (1).
[0028]
Chemical Formula
[0029] [In formula (1), R 11 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group, or a hydrogen atom; Z represents a methylene group, a methine group or an oxygen atom; X 11 , X 12 and X 13 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or an acetoxy group, X 14 represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group or a glyceryl group, or forms an oxo group together with an adjacent oxygen atom (provided that when Z is a methine group, one of X 11 and X 12 is a hydrogen atom and the other does not exist. When X 14 forms an oxo group, X 13 does not exist.); R 12 and R 13 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group (e.g., hydroxymethyl group, hydroxyethyl group, etc.) or an acetoxymethyl group; R 14 represents a linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 60 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group or an amino group, and may have an ether bond, an ester bond or an amide bond in the main chain; R 15This represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may represent a hydrogen atom or have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group (Note that R 11 When Z is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R 15 It is preferably a hydrocarbon group having a total of 10 to 30 carbon atoms, which may have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group, and R 11 When R is a hydrocarbon group, 15 Preferably, it is a hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 8 carbon atoms, which may represent a hydrogen atom or have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. The dashed lines indicate that unsaturated bonds may also be present.
[0030] In formula (1), R 11 The "linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, carbonyl group, or amino group" shown is preferably a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group. Z represents a methylene group, a methine group, or an oxygen atom.
[0031] X 11 , X 12 and X 13 Each of these independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or an acetoxy group. 11 , X 12 and X 13 X 11 , X 12 and X 13 A combination in which 0 to 1 of the atoms are hydroxyl groups and the remainder are hydrogen atoms is preferred. When Z is a methine group, X 11 and X 12 Only one of them is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist. Also, X 14 Hydrogen atoms and glyceryl groups are preferred as these elements. R12 and R 13 Each independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group (e.g., a hydroxymethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, etc.), or an acetoxymethyl group, and is preferred R 12 R is a hydrogen atom or a hydroxymethyl group, and is preferred. 13 It is a hydrogen atom.
[0032] R 14 R represents a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 60 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group, or an amino group, and may also have an ether bond, an ester bond, or an amide bond in its main chain. 14 Examples include a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 35 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group or an amino group, or a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, linked to the ω position of the hydrocarbon group by an ester bond or amide bond. Preferred fatty acids for bonding are isostearic acid, 12-hydroxystearic acid, or linoleic acid.
[0033] R 15 This represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. R 11 When Z is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R 15 A hydrocarbon group having a total of 10 to 30 carbon atoms is preferred, which may have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. 11 When R is a hydrocarbon group, 15Preferably, the hydrocarbon group has 1 to 8 carbon atoms and may have a hydrogen atom or a substituent selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. More preferably, the hydrocarbon group has 1 to 8 carbon atoms and may have a hydrogen atom or be substituted with 1 to 3 substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, and an alkoxy group. Here, the hydroxyalkoxy group and the alkoxy group have 1 to 7 carbon atoms.
[0034] As ceramides, naturally derived ceramides represented by the following general formula (2), synthetic products having the same structure, and their derivatives (hereinafter also referred to as natural-type ceramides), or pseudo-type ceramides represented by the following general formula (3) (hereinafter also referred to as pseudo-type ceramides) are preferred. Among natural-type ceramides and pseudo-type ceramides, pseudo-type ceramides are preferred from the viewpoint of productivity, etc.
[0035] [ka]
[0036] [In formula (2), R 21 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group; Z1 represents a methylene group or a methine group; X 15 , X 16 , and X 17 Each of these independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or an acetoxy group; X 18 It either represents a hydrogen atom or, together with an adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group (however, when Z1 is a methine group, X 15 and X 16 One of them is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist. 18 When X forms an oxo group, 17 It does not exist. R 22This represents a hydroxyalkyl group (e.g., hydroxymethyl group, hydroxyethyl group, etc.) or an acetoxymethyl group; R 23 This represents either a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 24 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 30 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group), which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) which may be esterified to the ω-terminus of the hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group); The dashed lines indicate that unsaturated bonds may also be present.
[0037] [ka]
[0038] [In formula (3), R 25 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, or a hydrogen atom; X 19 represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group, or a glyceryl group; R 26 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 22 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group), which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group or an amino group, or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, esterified to the ω-terminus of the hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group); R 27 This represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 30 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group), which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, or an acetoxy group.
[0039] Here, we will explain natural ceramides represented by general formula (2). In formula (2), R 21 The hydrocarbon group represented by has 7 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 11 to 15, and more preferably 13 to 15. Also, R 21 A linear alkyl group is preferred as the hydrocarbon group represented by . X 18 It either represents a hydrogen atom or, together with an adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group. Also, R 24 Preferably, this is a linear alkyl group having 9 to 27 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, or a group in which linoleic acid is ester-bonded to the ω-terminus of the alkyl group. 24 More preferably, the groups are tricosyl group, 1-hydroxypentadecyl group, 1-hydroxytricosyl group, heptadecyl group, 1-hydroxyundecyl group, nonacosyl group with linoleic acid ester-bonded to the ω position, and pentacosyl group.
[0040] Specific examples of naturally occurring ceramides include ceramides Type 1-7, in which sphingosine, dihydrosphingosine, phytosphingosine, or sphingadienine are amidated (for example, porcine and human ceramides described in Figure 2 of J. Lipid Res., 24:759 (1983) and Figure 4 of J. Lipid. Res., 35:2069 (1994)). Furthermore, these N-alkyl forms (e.g., N-methyl forms) are also included in natural ceramides. These ceramides may be the optically active form of the natural type (D(-)), the optically active form of the unnatural type (L(+)), or a mixture of the natural and unnatural types. The relative stereochemistry of the above compounds may be that of the natural type, or any other unnatural type, or a mixture thereof. Among natural ceramides, compounds of CERAMIDE1, CERAMIDE2, CERAMIDE3, CERAMIDE5, and CERAMIDE6II (all INCI, 8th Edition) and those represented by the following formula are particularly preferred.
[0041] [ka]
[0042] These can be either natural extracts or synthetic compounds, and commercially available products can be used. Examples of commercially available natural ceramides include Ceramide I, Ceramide II, Ceramide III, Ceramide IIIA, Ceramide IIIB, Ceramide IIIC, Ceramide VI (all manufactured by Cosmo Farm), Ceramide TIC-001 (manufactured by Takasago International Corporation), CERAMIDE II (manufactured by Quest International), DS-Ceramide VI, DS-CLA-Phytoceramide, C6-Phytoceramide, DS-ceramide Y3S (manufactured by Doosan), and CERAMIDE2 (manufactured by Sederma).
[0043] [ka]
[0044] Next, we will explain pseudo-ceramides represented by general formula (3). In formula (3), R 26 Preferred groups include heptyl group, 1-hydroxyheptyl group, nonyl group, tridecyl group, pentadecyl group, undecyl group with linoleic acid ester-bonded to the ω position, pentadecyl group with linoleic acid ester-bonded to the ω position, pentadecyl group with 12-hydroxystearic acid ester-bonded to the ω position, and undecyl group with methyl-branched isostearic acid amide-bonded to the ω position. Also, R 25 If R is a hydrogen atom, 27Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, or an acetoxy group; more preferably, the hydrocarbon group is a hydrocarbon group having 10 to 30 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, or an acetoxy group; and particularly preferably, an alkyl group having 12 to 20 carbon atoms. R 25 However, if the hydroxyl group is a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R 27 Preferably, the alkyl group has a total of 1 to 8 carbon atoms and may be substituted with a hydrogen atom, or a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, or an acetoxy group. R 27 In this compound, the hydroxyalkoxy group or alkoxy group is preferably one having 1 to 7 carbon atoms.
[0045] Among pseudo-ceramides, R in general formula (3) 25 is a hexadecyl group, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a pentadecyl group, R 27 Those in which the hydroxyethyl group is R in general formula (3) 25 is a hexadecyl group, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a nonyl group, R 27 Those in which the hydroxyethyl group is R in general formula (3) 25 is a hexadecyl group, X 19 is a glyceryl group, R 26 is a tridecyl group, R 27 The one in general formula (3) is the 3-methoxypropyl group; R 25 X is a hydrogen atom. 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a pentadecyl group, R 27 Those with a dodecyl group; R in general formula (3) 25 X is a hydrogen atom. 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a 1-hydroxyheptyl group, R 27those in which it is a dodecyl group are preferred, R in general formula (3) 25 is a hexadecyl group, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a pentadecyl group, R 27 is a hydroxyethyl group; R in general formula (3) 25 is a hexadecyl group, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a nonyl group, R 27 is a hydroxyethyl group; R in general formula (3) 25 is a hexadecyl group, X 19 is a glyceryl group, R 26 is a tridecyl group, R 27 those in which it is a 3-methoxypropyl group are more preferred, R in general formula (3) 25 is a hexadecyl group, X 19 is a hydrogen atom, R 26 is a pentadecyl group, R 27 the compound in which it is a hydroxyethyl group (N-(hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethyl hexadecanamide) is particularly preferred. The pseudo-ceramides represented by general formula (3) are ceramide functional components, which can supplement the function of ceramides and improve skin conditions (such as moisture content).
[0046]
Chemical Formula
[0047]
Chemical Formula
[0048] Ceramides can be used individually or in combination of two or more types. From the viewpoint of improving skin condition and improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation is applied, the content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 4% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or less. Furthermore, the ceramide content is preferably 0.01 to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.05 to 4% by mass, and even more preferably 0.1 to 3% by mass.
[0049] In the present invention, the water content is preferably 40% by mass or more, more preferably 50% by mass or more, more preferably 85% by mass or less, and more preferably 83% by mass or less, from the viewpoint of the dispersibility of component (A) and the skin-improving effect. Furthermore, the water content is preferably 40 to 85% by mass, and more preferably 50 to 83% by mass, from the total composition.
[0050] In addition to the above-mentioned components, the cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain components commonly used in cosmetics, such as oily components other than those mentioned above, polyhydric alcohols other than those mentioned above, surfactants, powders, polymer compounds other than those mentioned above, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, pH adjusters, blood circulation promoters, cooling agents, antiperspirants, bactericides, skin activators, moisturizers, cooling agents, and the like.
[0051] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be manufactured according to conventional methods and may be any of the following: water-in-oil emulsion cosmetic, oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic, aqueous cosmetic, etc. It can also be in the form of a liquid, emulsion, paste, cream, gel, solid, or other dosage form. Furthermore, the cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably an α-type gel in terms of improving skin condition, improving the application and evenness of makeup when foundation or the like is applied, and enhancing its longevity. The α-type structure can be confirmed by X-ray structural analysis. The α-type structure is a hexagonal crystal system in which the lipophilic groups are oriented perpendicular to the hydrophilic base layer plane, and is characterized by the appearance of a sharp diffraction peak around the Bragg angle of 21-23°.
[0052] The cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably applied as an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition and can be applied as a makeup cosmetic such as a makeup base, foundation, concealer, blush, eyeshadow, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow product, overcoat, lipstick, etc.; or as an ultraviolet protection cosmetic such as a sunscreen lotion, sunscreen cream, etc. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be used by applying it to the skin, preferably to a part of the body excluding the scalp, and more preferably to the face, body, hands, feet, etc. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be suitably used as skin cosmetics such as lotions, emulsions, beauty creams, base cosmetics, sunscreens, packs, and massage cosmetics; and as topical pharmaceuticals such as creams containing various drugs. Among these, skin cosmetics are preferred from the viewpoint of gelling unsaturated fatty acids, enhancing the scavenging effect of unsaturated fatty acids, improving skin condition, and improving the application, evenness, and longevity of makeup when foundation is applied. Lotions, emulsions, beauty creams, and base cosmetics are more preferred, beauty creams, emulsions, and base cosmetics are even more preferred, and emulsions and base cosmetics are even more preferred. Note that skin cosmetics do not include cosmetics for cleansing purposes.
[0053] With regard to the embodiments described above, the present invention further discloses the following compositions.
[0054] <1> The following components (A), (B), and (C): (A) A polymer having a cellulose backbone, in which substituents selected from hydroxypropyl groups, hydroxybutyl groups, and amide groups are substituted at a rate of 2.4 or more per glucose unit. (B) Liquid dihydric alcohol, (C) Water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group A cosmetic composition containing the above, wherein the mass ratio of component (C) to component (A), (C) / (A), is 0.001 to 0.3.
[0055] <2> Component (A) is a cellulose hydroxyl group that has been substituted with substituents selected from hydroxypropyl groups, hydroxybutyl groups, and amide groups at a rate of 2.4 or more per glucose unit (degree of substitution of 2.4 or more), wherein the degree of substitution is preferably 3 or more, preferably 10 or less, and more preferably 5 or less. <1> The listed cosmetics. <3> The polymer of component (A) preferably does not have substituents other than hydroxypropyl groups, hydroxybutyl groups, and amide groups. <1> or <2> The emulsifying composition described. <4> The above is characterized in that component (A) is preferably hydroxypropyl cellulose. <1> ~ <3> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <5> Component (A) preferably has an average molecular weight of 40,000 to 2,500,000, and more preferably 100,000 to 2,500,000. <1> ~ <4> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following.
[0056] <6> The content of component (A) is preferably 0.1% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 0.2% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, even more preferably 1% by mass or more, preferably 6% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, even more preferably 1.8% by mass or less, and even more preferably 1.6% by mass or less, as described above. <1> ~ <5> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <7> The content of component (A) is preferably 0.1 to 6% by mass in the total composition. <1> ~ <6> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following.
[0057] <8> Component (B) preferably contains one or more selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, and propanediol, and more preferably contains 1,3-butylene glycol or propanediol. <1> ~ <7> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <9> The content of component (B) is preferably 2% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 3% by mass or more, even more preferably 4% by mass or more, preferably 15% by mass or less, more preferably 12% by mass or less, and even more preferably 10% by mass or less. <1> ~ <8> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <10> The mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.05 or more, more preferably 0.07 or more, even more preferably 0.1 or more, preferably 0.6 or less, more preferably 0.45 or less, and even more preferably 0.35 or less. <1> ~ <9> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <11> The mass ratio (A) / (B) of component (A) to component (B) is preferably 0.05 to 0.6. <1> ~ <10> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following.
[0058] <12> The component (C) is preferably an acrylic acid polymer. <1> ~ <11> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <13> The content of component (C) is preferably 0.001% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 0.005% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.15% by mass or less, more preferably 0.1% by mass or less, and even more preferably 0.08% by mass or less. <1> ~ <12> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <14> The mass ratio (C) / (A) of component (C) to component (A) is preferably 0.005 or more, more preferably 0.008 or more, even more preferably 0.01 or more, preferably 0.15 or less, more preferably 0.12 or less, and even more preferably 0.05 or less. <1> ~ <13> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following.
[0059] <15> Furthermore, the above contains glycerin fatty acid ester. <1> ~ <14> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <16> The glycerin fatty acid ester is preferably a glycerin monofatty acid ester, and more preferably a glycerin monostearate ester or a glycerin monobehenate ester. <15> The listed cosmetics. <17> The glycerin fatty acid ester content is preferably 0.1% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, and even more preferably 2% by mass or less. <15> or <16> The listed cosmetics.
[0060] <18> Furthermore, the above contains higher alcohols. <1> ~ <17> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <19> The higher alcohol is preferably a monohydric alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms. Cetanol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol are more preferred, and cetanol and behenyl alcohol are even more preferred. <18> The listed cosmetics. <20> The content of higher alcohols is preferably 0.1% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 0.3% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.5% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 3% by mass or less, and even more preferably 2% by mass or less. <18> or <19> The listed cosmetics.
[0061] <21> Furthermore, the above-mentioned, which contains ceramides <1> ~ <20> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <22> Ceramides are preferably those of general formula (1):
[0062] [ka]
[0063] [In formula (1), R 11 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group, or an amino group, or a hydrogen atom; Z represents a methylene group, a methine group, or an oxygen atom; X 11 , X 12 and X 13 Each of these independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or an acetoxy group. X 14 This represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group, or a glyceryl group, or together with an adjacent oxygen atom to form an oxo group (however, when Z is a methine group, X 11 and X 12 One of them is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist. 14 When X forms an oxo group, 13 It does not exist. R 12 and R 13 Each of these independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group (e.g., a hydroxymethyl group, a hydroxyethyl group, etc.), or an acetoxymethyl group; R 14 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 60 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a carbonyl group, or an amino group, and which may have an ether bond, an ester bond, or an amide bond in its main chain; R 15 This represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 30 carbon atoms, which may represent a hydrogen atom or have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group (Note that R 11 When Z is a hydrogen atom and Z is an oxygen atom, R 15 It is preferably a hydrocarbon group having a total of 10 to 30 carbon atoms, which may have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group, and R 11 When R is a hydrocarbon group, 15 Preferably, it is a hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 8 carbon atoms, which may represent a hydrogen atom or have substituents selected from a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, and an acetoxy group. The dashed lines indicate that unsaturated bonds may also be present. It is something that is represented by, Naturally derived ceramides represented by the following general formula (2), or synthetic compounds of the same structure and their derivatives (hereinafter also referred to as natural ceramides), or pseudo-ceramides represented by the following general formula (3) (hereinafter also referred to as pseudo-ceramides).
[0064] [ka]
[0065] [In formula (2), R 21 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 7 to 19 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group; Z1 represents a methylene group or a methine group; X 15 , X 16 , and X 17 Each of these independently represents a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, or an acetoxy group; X 18 It either represents a hydrogen atom or, together with an adjacent oxygen atom, forms an oxo group (however, when Z1 is a methine group, X 15 and X 16 One of them is a hydrogen atom, and the other does not exist. 18 When X forms an oxo group, 17 It does not exist. R 22 This represents a hydroxyalkyl group (e.g., hydroxymethyl group, hydroxyethyl group, etc.) or an acetoxymethyl group; R 23 This represents either a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R 24 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 30 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group), which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) which may be esterified to the ω-terminus of the hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group); The dashed lines indicate that unsaturated bonds may also be present.
[0066] [ka]
[0067] [In formula (3), R 25 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, or a hydrogen atom; X 19 represents a hydrogen atom, an acetyl group, or a glyceryl group; R 26 This refers to a linear, branched, or cyclic saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 5 to 22 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group), which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group or an amino group, or a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group) which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, esterified to the ω-terminus of the hydrocarbon group (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group); R 27 This represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon group having a total of 1 to 30 carbon atoms (the hydrocarbon group is preferably an alkyl group), which may be substituted with a hydroxyl group, a hydroxyalkoxy group, an alkoxy group, or an acetoxy group. More preferable, Pseudo-ceramides are even more preferred. N-(hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide is more preferably the above <21> The listed cosmetics.
[0068] <23> The ceramide content is preferably 0.01% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 0.05% by mass or more, even more preferably 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 5% by mass or less, more preferably 4% by mass or less, and even more preferably 3% by mass or less. <21> or <22> The listed cosmetics.
[0069] <24> The water content is preferably 40% by mass or more in the total composition, more preferably 50% by mass or more, preferably 85% by mass or less, and more preferably 83% by mass or less. <1> ~ <23> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <25> The α-type gel, <1> ~ <24> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <26> The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic composition is the aforementioned <1> ~ <25> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <27> The above is a skin cosmetic. <1> ~ <26> Cosmetics as described in any one of the following. <28> The ceramide is N-(hexadecyloxyhydroxypropyl)-N-hydroxyethylhexadecanamide (ceramide functional component), as described above. <21> The emulsifying composition described. [Examples]
[0070] Examples 1-10 and Comparative Examples 1-10 Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics with the compositions shown in Table 1 were manufactured and evaluated for improvement in skin brightness, improvement in redness and unevenness of the cheeks, improvement in skin smoothness, even makeup application, good makeup application, and makeup longevity. The results are also shown in Table 1.
[0071] (Manufacturing method) 1) The oil phase components were uniformly mixed and heated to 85°C to dissolve them, thereby obtaining the oil phase mixture. 2) Separately, aqueous phase components other than components (A), (B), and (C) were heated and mixed at 85°C. This mixture was added to the above oil phase mixture, which had been heated to 85°C, and mixed uniformly while stirring at 85°C. After that, it was cooled to 25°C while stirring. 3) To the mixture from 2) above, a mixture of components (A), (B), and (C), which were separately homogeneously dissolved at room temperature, was added and stirred until homogeneous to obtain an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.
[0072] (Evaluation method) (1) Improvement of skin brightness: Each cosmetic product (600mg) was applied twice daily, morning and evening, for 7 consecutive days. The brightness of the bare skin, as seen in a mirror after washing, was evaluated before and after continuous use. Five professional evaluators evaluated each participant's skin according to the following criteria, and the results are shown as the total score from the five evaluators. 5; There is a clear improvement compared to before continuous use. 4. There is a slight improvement compared to before continuous use. 3; No change. 2; The condition has worsened slightly compared to before continuous use. 1; The condition has worsened compared to before continuous use.
[0073] (2) Improving redness and unevenness of the cheeks: Each cosmetic product (600mg) was applied twice daily, morning and evening, for 7 consecutive days. Redness and unevenness of the cheek area of the bare skin after washing were evaluated using a mirror before and after application. Five professional evaluators evaluated each participant's skin according to the following criteria, and the results are shown as the total score from the five evaluators. 5; Redness and uneven skin tone have clearly decreased compared to before continuous use. 4. Compared to before continuous use, the redness and unevenness have decreased slightly. 3; No change. 2. Compared to before continuous use, there is a slight increase in redness and unevenness. 1. Redness and unevenness have increased compared to before continuous use.
[0074] (3) Improved skin smoothness: Each cosmetic product (600mg) was applied twice daily, morning and evening, for 7 days. The smoothness of the skin after washing was evaluated before and after continuous use. Five professional evaluators evaluated each person's skin according to the following criteria, and the results are shown as the total score from the five evaluators. 5; My skin is noticeably smoother compared to before I started using it. 4. My skin is slightly smoother compared to before I started using it. 3; No change. 2. My skin is slightly rougher compared to before I started using it. 1. My skin is noticeably rougher compared to before I started using it.
[0075] (4) Makeup does not apply unevenly: Five expert evaluators applied 600mg of each cosmetic product to their entire face, and then evaluated the evenness of the application of a commercially available powder foundation using the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score from the five evaluators. 5: Even and uniform. 4: Slightly uneven, but mostly uniform. 3: Slightly uneven and not uniform. 2: It is uneven and not uniform. 1: It is uneven and not uniform.
[0076] (5) Makeup applies well: Five expert evaluators applied 600mg of each cosmetic product to the entire face twice daily (morning and evening) for three days. After cleansing the skin, applying a regular toner and lotion, they then applied a commercially available powder foundation and evaluated the degree of makeup application according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total score from the five evaluators. 5: Makeup applies very well. 4. Makeup applies well. 3: Makeup applies slightly better. 2: Makeup doesn't go on well. 1: Makeup doesn't apply well.
[0077] (6) Makeup lasts longer: Five expert evaluators applied 600mg of each cosmetic product to their entire face, followed by 60mg of commercially available powder foundation. The degree of makeup breakdown after 5 hours was evaluated according to the following criteria. The results are shown as the total scores from the five evaluators. 5. Foundation is still on the skin. 4: Most of the foundation remains on the skin. 3: Some foundation remains on the skin. 2: There is almost no foundation left on the skin. 1: No foundation remains on the skin.
[0078] [Table 1]
[0079] Examples 11-14, Comparative Examples 11-17 Aqueous cosmetic compositions with the compositions shown in Table 2 were prepared and evaluated in the same manner as in Examples 1-10 for improvement in skin brightness, improvement in uneven redness of the cheeks, improvement in skin smoothness, even application of makeup, good makeup application, and makeup longevity. The results are also shown in Table 2.
[0080] (Manufacturing method) All ingredients were stirred at 80°C to achieve uniform dissolution, and then cooled to room temperature while stirring to obtain an aqueous cosmetic.
[0081] [Table 2]
[0082] Examples 15-16 Except for adding the powder last, oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics (makeup bases) with the compositions shown in Table 3 were prepared in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 10. All of the resulting cosmetics can improve skin condition, such as the brightness of bare skin, uneven redness on the cheeks, and smoothness of the skin. When foundation or other makeup is applied, it adheres well, provides a uniform finish without unevenness, and the makeup lasts a long time.
[0083] [Table 3]
[0084] Example 17 Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics (lotions) with the compositions shown in Table 4 were manufactured in the same manner as in Examples 1 to 10. The resulting cosmetic product can improve skin condition, including the brightness of bare skin, uneven redness on the cheeks, and skin smoothness. When foundation or other makeup is applied, it adheres well, provides a uniform finish without unevenness, and ensures long-lasting makeup.
[0085] [Table 4]
Claims
1. The following components (A), (B), and (C): (A) A polymer having a cellulose backbone, in which substituents selected from hydroxypropyl groups, hydroxybutyl groups, and amide groups are substituted at a rate of 2.4 or more per glucose unit, 0.1 to 6% by mass. (B) Liquid dihydric alcohol, 2 to 15% by mass, (C) Water-soluble polymer having a carboxyl group: 0.001% by mass or more A cosmetic composition containing the above, wherein the mass ratio of component (C) to component (A) (C) / (A) is 0.001 to 0.
15.
2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein component (A) is hydroxypropylcellulose.
3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) is an acrylic acid polymer.
4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, which is a skin cosmetic composition.
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