Biphasic makeup removal cosmetic composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising separate aqueous and oily phases, the oily phase comprising: 48% to 82% by weight of isododecane, relative to the total weight of the oily phase; 10% to 22% by weight of isopropyl palmitate, relative to the total weight of the oily phase; and 8% to 18% by weight of isopropyl myristate, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, wherein the composition does not contain a C15-C19 alkane. The present invention also relates to specific ternary mixtures, and related methods and cosmetic uses.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a biphasic composition consisting of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the oily phase comprises a specific oil. The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition, and to a method of removing make-up using such a composition.

Background Art

[0002] Compositions consisting of two separated phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are separated from each other at rest and not emulsified, are generally referred to by the term "biphasic composition". Biphasic compositions differ from emulsions by the fact that, at rest, the two phases are separated from each other rather than being emulsified together. The use of these biphasic compositions requires prior stirring to form an emulsion, but the emulsion needs to have sufficient quality and stability to allow both phases to be uniformly applied onto the skin or keratin substance to which the emulsion is applied. At rest, said phases must separate rapidly from each other and return to their initial state, a phenomenon more commonly known by the terms "phase separation" or "demixing".

[0003] Relatively rapid demixing of the two phases after use is one of the desired properties for biphasic compositions. Indeed, achieving rapid phase separation is desirable for various reasons, in particular because poor separation of the two phases is perceived as unsightly by the user, and the product may eventually become "three phases" over time during use.

[0004] Furthermore, commercially available biphasic compositions, which are particularly used for removing make-up from the face, especially from the eyes, contain cyclopentasiloxane.

Summary of the Invention

Problem to be Solved by the Invention

[0005] However, the cosmetics market is increasingly focusing on compositions containing more natural, environmentally friendly compounds and / or compounds of biomass origin. In particular, there is a demand for compositions that do not contain cyclopentasiloxane.

[0006] As a result, there is still a need for novel, stable biphasic compositions that consist of two separate, unmixed phases, do not contain cyclopentasiloxane, possess good demixing quality, and ensure effective makeup removal. Natural compositions are also needed. "Natural composition" means a cosmetic composition primarily formulated with natural ingredients and / or ingredients of natural origin. "Natural ingredient" means a compound obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, by one or more physical processes, where applicable, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification, or filtration. "Ingredient of natural origin" means a natural compound that has undergone one or more chemical or related industrial processes that result in a modification that is not detrimental to the essential quality of the compound, and / or a compound primarily containing natural ingredients, whether or not it has undergone the above-mentioned modifications. [Means for solving the problem]

[0007] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that a biphasic composition satisfying these requirements can be obtained by a ternary association of isododecane, isopropyl palmitate, and isopropyl myristate in specific proportions linked to an aqueous phase. The composition according to the present invention is stable, free of cyclopentasiloxane, has particularly good demixing quality, and is highly effective for makeup removal.

[0008] More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the oily phase is - 48% to 82% by mass of isododecane relative to the total mass of the oily phase, - 10% to 22% by mass of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total mass of the oily phase, - 8% to 18% by mass of isopropyl myristate relative to the total mass of the oily phase Includes, The composition does not contain C15-C19 alkanes. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition characterized by the following features.

[0009] Such compositions according to the present invention are biphasic compositions.

[0010] The present invention also, - 48% to 82% by mass of isododecane relative to the total mass of the composition, - 10% to 22% by mass of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total mass of the composition, - 8% to 18% by mass of isopropyl myristate and A composition comprising, This also applies to compositions that do not contain C15-C19 alkanes.

[0011] This composition is also referred to in this application as the "ternary mixture." The ternary mixture corresponds to the preferred oily phase of the two-phase composition according to the present invention.

[0012] The present invention also relates to a method for removing makeup from and / or cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, comprising applying a biphasic composition or ternary mixture according to the present invention to the keratinous material, particularly keratinous material of the eyes, preferably eyelashes.

[0013] The present invention also relates to the use of a biphasic composition or ternary mixture according to the present invention for keratinous substances, particularly keratinous substances of the eyes, preferably for the removal of eyelash makeup and / or cleaning and / or care.

[0014] "Keratin material" refers to skin, mucous membranes, and / or skin appendages. Preferably, the keratin material is skin, especially facial skin, mucous membranes, such as lips, and / or skin appendages, such as eyelashes. [Modes for carrying out the invention]

[0015] Oily phase In the biphasic composition according to the present invention, the oily phase - 48% to 82% by mass of isododecane, relative to the total mass of the oily phase, and - 10% to 22% by mass of isopropyl palmitate, relative to the total mass of the oily phase, and - 8% to 18% by mass of isopropyl myristate, relative to the total mass of the oily phase comprises and the composition contains no C15-C19 alkanes.

[0016] The ternary mixture composition according to the present invention - 48% to 82% by mass of isododecane, relative to the total mass of the composition, and - 10% to 22% by mass of isopropyl palmitate, relative to the total mass of the composition, and - 8% to 18% by mass of isopropyl myristate, relative to the total mass of the composition consists of and the mixture contains no C15-C19 alkanes.

[0017] The feature of "a composition containing no C15-C19 alkanes" or "a mixture containing no C15-C19 alkanes" is understood to mean that the biphasic composition or the ternary mixture, respectively, does not contain any C15-C19 alkanes at all. These excluded C15-C19 alkanes are in particular C15-C19 branched alkanes, such as those marketed under the name EMOGREEN L19 by Seppic.

[0018] Preferably, the biphasic composition and the ternary mixture according to the present invention contain no alkanes other than isododecane.

[0019] The biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention comprise 48% by mass to 82% by mass of isododecane, relative to the total mass of the oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention comprise 50% by mass to 75% by mass, preferably 55% by mass to 70% by mass, more preferably 57% by mass to 68% by mass of isododecane, relative to the total mass of the oily phase.

[0020] The biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention comprise 10% by mass to 22% by mass of isopropyl palmitate, relative to the total mass of the oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention comprise 15% by mass to 22% by mass, preferably 17% by mass to 22% by mass of isopropyl palmitate, relative to the total mass of the oily phase.

[0021] The biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention comprise 8% by mass to 18% by mass of isopropyl myristate, relative to the total mass of the oily phase. Preferably, the biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention comprise 10% by mass to 18% by mass, preferably 15% by mass to 18% by mass of isopropyl myristate, relative to the total mass of the oily phase.

[0022] Preferably, the biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention are substantially free of cyclopentasiloxane. The expression "substantially free of cyclopentasiloxane" means that the composition contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, more preferably less than 0.1% by mass of cyclopentasiloxane, relative to the total mass of the composition. More preferably, the biphasic composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention contain no cyclopentasiloxane at all.

[0023] Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the biphasic composition comprises water.

[0024] The aqueous phase optionally contains at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water at 25°C.

[0025] Suitable water-soluble or water-miscible solvents for the present invention include short-chain linear or branched alkanols, such as C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, or butanol; diols or polyols, particularly those having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentadiol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0026] Preferably, the aqueous phase contains water in a concentration of at least 60% by mass, preferably at least 70% by mass, and preferably between 80% and 98% by mass, relative to the total mass of the aqueous phase.

[0027] The aqueous phase may further contain conventional cosmetic additives, such as electrolytes, chelating agents, preservatives, and / or surfactants.

[0028] The electrolyte can be selected from sodium chloride or sodium sulfate. Sodium chloride is preferred as the electrolyte.

[0029] Preferably, the active substance content of the electrolyte is between 0.2% by mass and 5% by mass, preferably between 0.5% by mass and 4% by mass, and preferably between 1% by mass and 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0030] In particular, the aqueous phase may contain at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants. Preferably, the aqueous phase contains at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably an alkyl polyglucoside, an ester of a fatty acid containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing 5 to 8 glycerol units, and a mixture thereof.

[0031] Preferably, the aqueous phase contains 0.015% to 7% by mass, preferably 0.01% to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.02% to 1% by mass, of the total mass of the aqueous phase, a surfactant.

[0032] Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) belong to the alkyl polyglucoside family and generally have the following structure: R(O)(G) x (In the formula, the R group is C 12 ~C 22 (where G is a linear or branched alkyl group, G is a glucose residue, and x varies from 1 to 5, preferably 1.05 to 2.5, more preferably 1.1 to 2) It conforms to the requirements.

[0033] According to the present invention, the term alkyl polyglucoside (APG) also includes polyalkyl(poly)glucoside. Preferably, alkyl- and polyalkyl-glucosides or polyglucosides contain alkyl groups containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18, and more preferably 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and preferably contain glucoside groups containing 1 to 5, particularly 1, 2 to 3, glucoside units. Examples of alkyl polyglucosides include decyl glucoside (alkyl-C9 / C9). 11-Polyglucosides (1.4), for example, products sold by Kao Chemicals under the trademark Mydol 10 (registered trademark), or products sold by Henkel under the trademark Plantacare 2000 UP (registered trademark), and products sold by SEPPIC under the trademark ORAMIX NS 10 (registered trademark); Caprylyl / caprylglucoside, for example, products sold by Cognis under the trademark Plantacare KE 3711 (registered trademark), or products sold by SEPPIC under the trademark ORAMIX CG 110 (registered trademark); Laurylglucoside, for example, products sold by Henkel under the trademark Plantacare 1200 UP (registered trademark), or products sold by Henkel under the trademark Plantaren 1200 N (registered trademark); Cocoglucoside, for example, products sold by Henkel under the trademark Plantacare 818 UP (registered trademark); Caprylyl glucoside, for example, the product marketed by Cognis under the trademark name Plantacare 810 UP®, can be selected; as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the APG is decyl glucoside.

[0034] Esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols are formed from at least one fatty acid containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerol containing 5 to 8 glycerol units.

[0035] The fatty acid may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the ester of the fatty acid and polyglycerol is mono or diester, and preferably monoester.

[0036] The term "polyglycerol" refers to glyceryl polymers, which are linear chains of 5 to 8 glycerol units.

[0037] Esters that are more specifically considered in accordance with the present invention are esters obtained from the esterification of polyglycerol with a C8 carboxylic acid, such as caprylic acid. The carboxylic acid may be linear or branched, and may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the carboxylic acid is a linear monocarboxylic acid.

[0038] According to one particular embodiment, esters suitable for the present invention can be derived from the esterification of polyglycerols with one or more identical or different carboxylic acids. These may be hydroxylated monoesters, hydroxylated diesters, hydroxylated triesters, or mixtures thereof.

[0039] In preferred embodiments of the present invention, the ester is selected from esters of a fatty acid containing eight carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing six glycerol units.

[0040] An ester of a fatty acid containing eight carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing six glycerol units is formed from (i) at least one fatty acid (also called a C8 fatty acid) containing an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing eight carbon atoms, and (ii) six glycerol units.

[0041] Preferably, the C8 fatty acid is saturated and contains a linear alkyl chain. Preferably, the C8 fatty acid is caprylic acid.

[0042] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the ester of a fatty acid containing eight carbon atoms and a polyglycerol containing six glycerol units is polyglyceryl monocaprylate containing six glycerol units, i.e., polyglyceryl monocaprylate-6 (polyglyceryl caprylate-6).

[0043] Biphasic composition The two-phase composition according to the present invention consists of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase.

[0044] Preferably, the mass ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.03 and 5.8, and preferably between 1.04 and 5.7.

[0045] These ratio values ​​allow for the creation of a biphasic composition that offers excellent makeup removal capabilities and a satisfactory visual appearance.

[0046] This invention also relates to the use of the biphasic composition or ternary mixture defined above for makeup removal and / or cleaning of keratinous materials, preferably skin and / or mucous membranes (e.g., lips) and / or keratinous fibers (e.g., eyelashes).

[0047] The present invention also relates to a method for removing and / or cleaning makeup from keratinous material, preferably skin and / or mucous membranes (e.g., lips) and / or keratinous fibers (e.g., eyelashes), comprising applying a biphasic composition or ternary mixture according to the present invention onto the keratinous material.

[0048] Please understand that expressions such as "between... and...", "within the range of... and...", and "vary between... and..." include the boundary value unless otherwise specified.

[0049] Herein are specific, non-limiting embodiments illustrating the present invention.

[0050] Unless otherwise specified, the pressure in the examples is atmospheric pressure. [Examples]

[0051] (Example 1) Preparation of compositions and comparative compositions according to the present invention 1. Experimental design to be implemented for four variable elements (i.e., oil content) Mass % relative to the mass of the oily phase: Isododecane (QS) - Isopropyl palmitate (0-30%) - Isopropyl myristate (0-30%) - C15-C19 alkanes (0-35%)

[0052] - Formulation of the oily phase Add four types of oil (variable concentrations) to a beaker and allow to homogenize at a low temperature for 20 minutes.

[0053] The composition of the oily phase is shown in Tables 2 to 5 below. In Tables 2 to 5, the percentages represent the mass of the oily phase relative to the total mass.

[0054] - Formulation of aqueous phase Aqueous phase composition

[0055] [Table 1]

[0056] The aqueous phase is prepared as follows. Add the raw materials for phase A to a beaker and heat to 65°C. After dispersion for 20 minutes, add the raw materials for phase B (the water must be cold) and allow to disperse for 10 minutes.

[0057] - Integrate into a biphasic composition Measure the densities of the two phases.

[0058] To obtain a biphasic composition having a mass ratio of 85% aqueous phase / 15% oily phase, perform the following calculations.

[0059]

number

[0060] m for each phase 相 Calculate the mass and pour it into the selected packaging.

[0061] By mixing the aqueous phase from Table 1 with the oily phases detailed below (Tables 2 to 5), each of the following compositions can be obtained.

[0062] a. Height of the oily phase (transparent) 45 seconds after stirring (in centimeters) Protocol: Stir the two-phase composition 10 times by rotating, then start the timer. After 45 seconds, measure the height of the demixed oily phase using a ruler. Target value: 0.5 centimeters in height

[0063] b. Height of the oily phase (clear) 1 minute after stirring (in centimeters) Protocol: Stir the two-phase composition 10 times by rotating, then start the timer. After 1 minute, measure the height of the demixed oily phase using a ruler. Target value: 1.2 centimeters in height

[0064] c. After 4 days of stirring, presence of droplets of the oily phase on the wall. Protocol: Stir the biphasic composition 10 times daily for 5 days by rotating it. Allow the biphasic composition to stand for 24 hours, then repeat this procedure on subsequent days. On the 5th day, evaluate the biphasic composition without stirring.

[0065] The presence of oily droplets on the wall may be detected, and the following note should be added. 0 = No droplets, 1 = Very fine / sparse droplets, 2 = Fine / few droplets, 3 = Medium / more droplets, 4 = Large / many droplets Target value: 2 or less

[0066] d. Clarity of the interface after 4 days of stirring. Protocol: Stir the two-phase composition 10 times daily for 5 days by rotating it. Allow the two-phase composition to stand for 24 hours, then repeat this procedure on subsequent days. On the 5th day, evaluate the two-phase composition without stirring. The interface corresponds to the separation line between the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0067] If it is unstable, add the following note. 1 = Very indistinct interface / large droplets, 2 = Indistinct interface / medium droplets, 3 = Clearly defined interface - sparse droplets, 4 = Clearly defined interface - several tiny droplets, 5 = Clearly defined interface Target value: 3 or higher

[0068] Influence of C15-C19 alkane content

[0069] [Table 2]

[0070] After stirring for 45 seconds, the demixing rate of the two phases is evaluated by measuring the height of the oily phase. The target value is set at 0.5 cm. When C15-C19 alkanes are added to the composition (Comparison 1), or when isododecane is completely replaced with C15-C19 alkanes (Comparison 2), the target value is not achieved.

[0071] Therefore, the two-phase composition and ternary mixture according to the present invention shall not contain any alkanes other than isododecane.

[0072] Effect of isopropyl myristate content

[0073] [Table 3]

[0074] The height of the oily phase after 1 minute of stirring and the presence of droplets on the wall after 4 days of stirring were evaluated.

[0075] If the isopropyl myristate content is strictly less than 8% or strictly more than 18%, the target value will not be achieved.

[0076] Therefore, isopropyl myristate must be present in an amount of 8% to 18% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily phase.

[0077] Effect of isopropyl palmitate content

[0078] [Table 4]

[0079] The clarity of the interface after 4 days of stirring and the presence of droplets on the wall after 4 days of stirring were evaluated. If the isopropyl palmitate content is less than 10%, the target value for droplet presence is not achieved. If the content exceeds 22%, both target values ​​are not achieved.

[0080] Therefore, isopropyl palmitate must be present in an amount of 10% to 22% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily phase.

[0081] Effect of isododecane content

[0082] [Table 5]

[0083] The height of the oily phase after 45 seconds of stirring and the presence of droplets on the wall after 4 days of stirring were evaluated. If the isododecane content is less than 48%, the two target values ​​are not met. If the content is greater than 82%, the target value for the presence of droplets is not met.

[0084] Therefore, isododecane must be present in an amount of 48% to 82% by mass relative to the total mass of the oily phase.

[0085] Isopropyl palmitate is essential, in particular, for reducing the number of droplets after 4 days of stirring. Isopropyl myristate is essential, in particular, for obtaining good demixing.

[0086] 2. The effect of ratios Other ratios with the following compositions were tested (same oily phase composition, see below). • The ratio of 70% aqueous phase to 30% oil-based phase, • Ratio of 56% aqueous phase to 44% oil-based phase.

[0087] Aqueous phase composition The aqueous phase has the same composition as shown in Table 1.

[0088] Oily phase composition

[0089] [Table 6]

[0090] Tests of different ratios

[0091] [Table 7]

[0092] Although the ratios differ, all tests are stable with respect to the target value in the same phase composition.

[0093] (Example 2) Evaluation of the composition and comparative composition according to the present invention The makeup removal effectiveness of different biphasic compositions (see Invention 1 or 1', and Invention 2 or 2') is evaluated against foundation and mascara.

[0094] Foundation (FDT) application: 0.1 mL of Maybelline Fit Me Matte Pore Less Color 220 per half of the face.

[0095] Mascara application: Apply Voluminous Blackest Black mascara 30 times to the upper lashes.

[0096] Wait 30 minutes before removing the makeup. For FDT, use five cotton pads soaked in 2 ml of the biphasic composition for each half of the face. Remove makeup from each part of the face. Wait 5 minutes, then apply 2 ml of Lancome Bifacil to up to six cotton pads.

[0097] Count the number of cotton balls soaked in Bifacil needed to remove any residue.

[0098] For mascara, use three cotton pads soaked in 2 ml of the biphasic composition for each eye. Remove makeup from the eyes. Wait 5 minutes, then apply 2 ml of Bifacil to up to six cotton pads.

[0099] Count the number of cotton balls soaked in Bifacil needed to remove any residue.

[0100] 1 / Tested formulation (ratio 85:15): Total phase composition + phase ratio

[0101] [Table 8]

[0102] result: For reference, FDT uses one cotton pad for makeup removal, and mascara uses 1.5 cotton pads. On the other hand, the two biphasic compositions according to the present invention use 0 cotton pads for FDT and 1 cotton pad for mascara.

[0103] The two biphasic compositions according to the present invention remove makeup better than the reference.

[0104] 2 / Tested formulation (70:30 ratio): Total phase composition + phase ratio

[0105] [Table 9]

[0106] result: For reference, FDT uses 0 cotton pads for makeup removal, and mascara uses 0.5 cotton pads. On the other hand, the two biphasic compositions according to the present invention use 0 cotton pads for FDT and 0 cotton pads for mascara.

[0107] The two biphasic compositions according to the present invention remove makeup better than the reference.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, wherein the oily phase is - 48% to 82% by mass of isododecane relative to the total mass of the oily phase, - 10% to 22% by mass of isopropyl palmitate relative to the total mass of the oily phase, - 8% to 18% by mass of isopropyl myristate relative to the total mass of the oily phase Includes, The composition does not contain C15-C19 alkanes. A cosmetic composition characterized by the following features.

2. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 50% to 75% by mass, preferably 55% to 70% by mass, and preferably 57% to 68% by mass, of isododecane based on the total mass of the oily phase.

3. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 15% to 22% by mass, preferably 17% to 22% by mass, of isopropyl palmitate based on the total mass of the oily phase.

4. The composition according to claim 1, comprising 10% to 18% by mass, preferably 15% to 18% by mass, of isopropyl myristate based on the total mass of the oily phase.

5. The composition according to claim 1, which is substantially free of cyclopentasiloxane, preferably completely free of cyclopentasiloxane.

6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water and optionally at least one solvent that is water-soluble or water-miscible at 25°C, preferably the solvent being selected from short-chain linear or branched alkanols, e.g., C2-C4 alkanols, e.g., ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol; diols or polyols, particularly those having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, e.g., glycerol, ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentadiol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

7. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase contains water in an amount of at least 60% by mass, preferably at least 70% by mass, and preferably between 80% and 98% by mass, relative to the total mass of the aqueous phase.

8. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one surfactant selected from anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucosides, esters of fatty acids containing 6 to 12 carbon atoms and polyglycerols containing 5 to 8 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is between 1 and 6, preferably between 1.03 and 5.8, and preferably between 1.04 and 5.

7.

10. A method for removing makeup from and / or cleaning and / or caring for keratinous material, comprising applying the composition according to claim 1 to the keratinous material, particularly keratinous material of the eyes, preferably eyelashes.

11. Use of the composition according to claim 1 for keratinous substances, particularly keratinous substances of the eyes, preferably for makeup removal and / or cleaning and / or care of the eyelashes.

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