Oil-based cosmetics
Patent Information
- Application Number
- JP2023529860
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2021-06-14
- Filing Date
- 2022-06-13
- Publication Date
- 2026-09-30
- Estimated Expiration
- 2042-06-13
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Figure 0007926989000007 
Figure 0007926989000001 
Figure 0007926989000002
Abstract
Description
TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic. BACKGROUND ART
[0002] Oily cosmetics are often used for the purpose of imparting color and gloss to the skin and lips, and are cosmetics that have good color development, high makeup effects such as the gloss of oil agents, and can greatly change the impression of the face. Therefore, maintaining the cosmetic effect for a long time is a very important quality item.
[0003] Various studies have therefore been conducted to achieve good color retention over time and the effect of being less prone to color transfer. For example, a technology containing phenyl-modified silicone, multi-branched isostearic acid or a liquid ester compound obtained by esterifying multi-branched isostearyl alcohol, and an oily gelling agent at a certain ratio to improve non-stickiness, durability of cosmetic effect and stability (e.g., Patent Document 1); a technology containing hydrogenated polyisobutene and a specific fatty acid polyglycerin to improve makeup longevity and the effect of preventing secondary adhesion (e.g., Patent Document 2); and a technology containing polyglyceryl isostearate that gels with water to improve adhesion and the effect of preventing color transfer (e.g., Patent Document 3). PRIOR ART DOCUMENTS PATENT DOCUMENTS
[0004] [Patent Document 1] Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2012-149041 [Patent Document 2] Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2019-167325 [Patent Document 3] Japanese Unexamined Patent Application Publication No. 2021-063068 SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] However, the cosmetic film obtained using the technology described in Patent Document 1 had a weak effect in preventing color transfer, and its color retention was not sufficient. Furthermore, while the technology described in Patent Document 2 provided a color transfer prevention effect, it was not satisfactory in terms of burden on the skin and moisturizing effect. In the technology described in Patent Document 3, depending on the oil used in combination, the gelation was weak, resulting in insufficient color retention and adhesion over time.
[0006] Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide an oily cosmetic composition that adheres well to the skin and lips and has long-lasting cosmetic film properties. Another object of the present invention is to provide an oily cosmetic composition that is less burdensome to the skin, has excellent moisturizing properties, and has good formulation stability.
[0007] In view of the above circumstances, the inventors conducted diligent research and found that a combination of a specific polyglycerin fatty acid ester and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate is an oily combination that exhibits excellent phase separation effects when reacting with moisture on the skin or lips after application. This combination yields an oily cosmetic that provides excellent adhesion to the skin and lips and good long-lasting durability of the cosmetic film, thus completing the present invention.
[0008] The oily cosmetic composition according to the present invention, which achieves the above objective, has the following composition. 1. The following components (A) and (B); (A) Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate (B) Polyglycerol fatty acid esters in which the degree of polymerization of glycerol is 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid with 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of esterification is 80% or more. An oil-based cosmetic containing [a specific ingredient].
[0009] 2. The oily cosmetic according to 1, wherein the total amount of component (A) and component (B) is 25 to 75% by mass of the entire oily cosmetic.
[0010] 3. The oily cosmetic composition according to 1. or 2., further comprising component (C): an oily agent (excluding components (A) and (B)) that separates after 24 hours at 25°C when mixed with a mixture of components (A) and (B).
[0011] 4. The oily cosmetic composition according to 3, wherein component (C) is silicone oil.
[0012] 5. The oily cosmetic composition according to 3. or 4., wherein the total amount of component (B) and component (C) is 45% by mass or more of the total oily cosmetic composition.
[0013] 6. An oily cosmetic composition according to any one of 1 to 5, further comprising ingredient (D) wax and / or an oily gelling agent.
[0014] 7. An oily cosmetic composition according to any one of 1 to 6, wherein the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) (A) / (B) is 0.01 to 1.2.
[0015] 8. An oily cosmetic composition according to any one of 3 to 7, wherein component (C) is a phenyl-modified silicone.
[0016] 9. An oily cosmetic composition according to any one of 6. to 8., wherein component (D) is fuming anhydrous silicic acid.
[0017] 10. A method for improving the longevity of oily cosmetics by combining a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a degree of polymerization of 2 to 12 for component (A) polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate and component (B) glycerin, the fatty acid being a branched fatty acid with 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and having a degree of esterification of 80% or more, and reacting with moisture on the skin or lips after application, through a phase separation effect. [Brief explanation of the drawing]
[0018] [Figure 1] This figure shows the evaluation results for Evaluation 1(a) and (b) of Examples 1 and 10 and Comparative Examples 2 and 7. MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0019] The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic comprising the following component (A) and component (B): (A) Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate (B) A polyglycerol fatty acid ester, wherein the polymerization degree of glycerol is 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of ester substitution is 80% or more which is an oily cosmetic.
[0020] The present invention provides an oily cosmetic that exhibits the effect of improving the adhesion of the applied film by moisture on the skin or lips after application, and having high makeup durability (for example, good color retention and resistance to color transfer); furthermore, the oily cosmetic has reduced wearing feeling, excellent moisturizing feel of the applied film, and good stability.
[0021] The above effects can be obtained by appropriately containing component (A) and component (B). Under a heated state (for example, 80°C), component (A) and component (B) dissolve or disperse without phase separation. It is considered that the formulation stability is ensured because both components can exist in a dissolved or dispersed state without separation under such a heated condition. On the other hand, at room temperature, when 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass in total of a mixture of component (A) and component (B) (content mass ratio of component (A) and component (B) in the oily cosmetic), gelation occurs. It is considered that the formation of such a state brings about the above effects of the present invention. More specifically, after component (A) that has absorbed moisture separates from component (B), it gels and forms a film, which improves adhesion to the skin and lips, and the separated component (B) exerts good makeup durability.
[0022] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In the present specification, the term "mass%" may be simply referred to as "%" below, which means mass%; when a numerical range is expressed using "~", the range includes the numerical values at both ends. Unless otherwise specified, operations and measurements of physical properties are performed under the conditions of room temperature (20 to 25°C) and relative humidity of 40 to 55% RH.
[0023] Component (A) polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate of the present invention is a diester of isostearic acid and polyglycerin having an average degree of polymerization of 10. Note that component (A) does not correspond to component (B). Component (A) is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, and one or more of these can be used. Examples of commercially available components (A) include S-Face IS-1002P (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.), NIKKOL Decaglyn 2-ISV (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), and Sunsoft Q-192Y-C (manufactured by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd.). In the present invention, from the viewpoint of absorbing water after application to form a gel, phase-separating from the oil, and improving adhesion, the ratio of hardness II (unit N) to hardness I (unit N) of component (A), hardness II / hardness I, is preferably 1.0 to 10.0, and more preferably 5.0 to 10.0. The ratio of hardness II to hardness I depends on the raw materials and varies depending on the addition position of isostearic acid and the structure of polyglycerin. Furthermore, if there are two or more components (A), the hardness refers to the total hardness of component (A) considering the mass ratio of the components. Hardness I is defined as the hardness of polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, and hardness II is defined as the gel hardness obtained when 95 parts by mass of polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate is mixed with 5 parts by mass of water and left to stand at room temperature for 1 hour. The hardness in this invention is the value measured using a rheometer manufactured by Rheotec, at a measurement temperature of 35°C, with a 15φ adapter, a needle insertion speed of 10 cm / min, and a needle insertion depth of 3 mm.
[0024] The content of component (A) in the present invention (total content if two or more are used) is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.5 to 35% of the total oily cosmetic composition, more preferably 0.5 to 30%, even more preferably 1 to 20%, and even more preferably 1 to 10%. Within this range, it is preferable because it reduces the feeling of burden after application, provides high adhesion and moisturizing effect, and offers superior makeup longevity and stability.
[0025] The polyglycerin fatty acid ester of component (B) of the present invention is an ester of polyglycerin having an (average) degree of polymerization of 2 to 12 and a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, with a degree of esterification of 80% or more (up to 100%). The polyglycerin fatty acid ester of component (B) of the present invention, in which the degree of polymerization of glycerin is 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of esterification of 80% or more, is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, and examples include polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, and polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate. One or more of these can be used. One embodiment of the present invention is an oily cosmetic containing at least one selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, and polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate. Another aspect of the present invention is an oily cosmetic composition containing polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate and / or polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate and polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate. Such component (B) is usually liquid at 25°C. In the present invention, when referring to the degree of esterification with respect to polyglycerin fatty acid esters, unless otherwise specified, the degree of esterification (%) can be calculated as follows: Degree of esterification (%) = {Number of moles of branched fatty acid added / (n+2)} × 100 (where n is the (average) degree of polymerization of polyglycerin).
[0026] In the polyglycerin fatty acid ester used in the present invention, the degree of polymerization of the constituent glycerin is 2 to 12, but a degree of polymerization of 5 to 10 is preferable from the viewpoint of makeup longevity.
[0027] Furthermore, in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester used in the present invention, the constituent fatty acids are branched fatty acids having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, but those having 8 to 18 carbon atoms are preferred, those having 8 to 10 carbon atoms are more preferred, and those having 8 carbon atoms are particularly preferred. Also, a form in which component (B) contains only polyglycerin fatty acid esters composed of fatty acids with 8 carbon atoms is also preferred from the viewpoint of cosmetic durability. Among these, 2-ethylhexanoic acid with 8 carbon atoms is particularly preferred. Examples of component (B) include polyglyceryl-10 decaethylhexanoate, polyglyceryl-10 decaisostearate, and polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate. Component (B) may be a commercially available product. Specifically, examples include KEH-1010 (83.3% esterification) as decaethylhexanoate polyglyceryl-10 (manufactured by Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.), NIKKOL Decaglyn 10-ISV (83.3% esterification) as decaisostearate polyglyceryl-10 (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.), Sun Oil DDI (83.3% esterification) (manufactured by Taiyo Kagaku Co., Ltd.), and Cosmol 44V (100% esterification) as tetraisostearate polyglyceryl-2 (manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group Co., Ltd.).
[0028] The content of component (B) (or the total content if two or more are used) is preferably 20-80% of the total oily cosmetic composition, and more preferably 30-70%. Within this range, stability is good, and adhesion and makeup longevity are superior, making it more preferable.
[0029] In the present invention, the total mass of component (A) and component (B) is preferably 25-85% of the total oily cosmetic composition, more preferably 25-75%, and even more preferably 40-60%. Within this range, the moisturizing effect and adhesion are higher, and the makeup lasts longer, making it more preferable.
[0030] Furthermore, in the present invention, the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B), (A) / (B), is preferably 0.01 or more from the viewpoint of moisturizing and adhesion, more preferably 0.08 or more from the viewpoint of cosmetic durability, and even more preferably 0.1 or more. Also, (A) / (B) is preferably 1.2 or less from the viewpoint of lightness and stability, more preferably less than 1.2, even more preferably 0.5 or less, and particularly preferably 0.2 or less. Also, (A) / (B) is preferably 0.01 to 1.2, more preferably 0.07 to 0.5, and even more preferably 0.1 to 0.2. Within this range, stability is good and the lightness is superior, making it more preferable.
[0031] The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferable because it further contains component (C): a liquid oil that separates after 24 hours at 25°C when mixed with a mixture of components (A) and (B), thereby further improving the secondary adhesion-free effect (e.g., resistance to color transfer) and adhesion. "Separates after 24 hours at 25°C when mixed with a mixture of components (A) and (B)" refers to a state in which 50 parts by mass of component (C) is heated to 80°C to mix, dissolve, and disperse 100 parts by mass of the mixture of components (A) and (B) (mixing mass ratio in the oily cosmetic composition), then cooled to 25°C and allowed to stand for 24 hours, after which it clearly separates. Components that separate without dissolving or (uniformly) dispersing when mixed with a mixture of components (A) and (B) at 80°C are not included in component (C).
[0032] The component (C) used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics, and one or more of these can be used. From the viewpoint of cosmetic durability (e.g., secondary adhesion-free effect (good color retention)), silicone oil is preferred, and a silicone oil that is liquid at 25°C is more preferred. Here, "liquid" means a silicone oil that is fluid at 25°C, and is not particularly limited as long as it is used in cosmetics, etc. Specifically, as a silicone oil, for example, one with a viscosity (kinematic viscosity) of 10 mm at 25°C. 2Examples include phenyl-modified silicones such as dimethylpolysiloxane with a viscosity of 1000 mm² or higher (centistokes (cS)), diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, and trifluoropropylcyclopolysiloxane. Furthermore, from the viewpoint of suppressing the stickiness of the cosmetic film and enhancing the secondary adhesion-free effect (e.g., resistance to color transfer), component (C) is particularly phenyl-modified silicone, fluorine-modified silicone, and a viscosity (kinematic viscosity) of 1000 mm² at 25°C. 2 Dimethylpolysiloxane with a concentration of 1 / s (=centistokes (cS)) or higher is preferred. In particular, in terms of cosmetic durability, component (C) is more preferably a phenyl-modified silicone, more preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, and even more preferably at least one selected from the group consisting of diphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, and especially preferably a combination of diphenyl dimethicone and diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone or a combination of diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.
[0033] A preferred embodiment of the present invention is an oily cosmetic comprising component (A), component (B), and phenyl-modified silicone.
[0034] Examples of commercially available products of component (C) include, but are not limited to, KF-96A-1000CS, KF-96-5000CS, KF-96-10000CS, KF-96-10000CS, KF-56, KF-54, KF-54HV, FL-100-100CS, FL-100-450CS, FL-100-1000CS, FL-100-10000CS (all manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), BELSIL® PDM 1000 (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Wacker Silicone Co., Ltd.), FZ-3156 (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.), etc.
[0035] The content of component (C) (total content if two or more are used) is not particularly limited, but in terms of improving stability, makeup longevity (e.g., secondary adhesion-free effect (good color retention)), and adhesion, it is preferably 10-50% of the total oily cosmetic composition, and more preferably 20-40%.
[0036] In the present invention, the total mass of component (B) and component (C) is not particularly limited, but the lower limit relative to the total oily cosmetic composition is preferably 45% or more, more preferably 50% or more, even more preferably 55% or more, and even more preferably 65% or more, from the viewpoint of adhesion and makeup longevity. The upper limit is preferably 95% or less, and more preferably 90% or less. Within this range, it is more preferable because it provides superior secondary adhesion-free effect (e.g., resistance to color transfer), stability, and adhesion.
[0037] Furthermore, in the present invention, the total mass content of component (B) and component (C) is preferably 45% or more (up to 100%) of the oily component, preferably 50% or more, preferably 55% or more, and more preferably 65% or more, from the viewpoint of adhesion and makeup longevity. Although the upper limit for the total mass content of component (B) and component (C) in the oily component is 100%, other oily components may be added for purposes such as adjusting the feel, and it is usually 95% or less.
[0038] Furthermore, in the present invention, from the viewpoint of adhesion and formulation stability, it is preferable to include component (D) wax and / or an oily gelling agent. Component (D) is not particularly limited as long as it is commonly used in cosmetics and can solidify or gel oily components, and one or more types can be appropriately selected and blended depending on the properties of the cosmetic, such as solid or paste form.
[0039] Examples of oily gelling agents include dextrin fatty acid esters (e.g., dextrin palmitate, (palmitic acid / 2-ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin, dextrin myristate, etc.), sucrose fatty acid esters, inulin fatty acid esters, 12-hydroxystearic acid, metal soaps, fumigated anhydrous silicic acid, (behenic acid / eicosanedioic acid) glyceryl, (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (vinyl dimethicone / alkyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone / phenylvinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer, (dimethicone / PEG) crosspolymer, (alkyl dimethicone / PEG) crosspolymer and other silicone crosspolymers, as well as organically modified clay minerals such as stearalkonium hectorite and distearyldimonium hectorite, and amino acid-based gelling agents such as dibutyl lauroyl glutamide and dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide.
[0040] Examples of waxes include hydrocarbon waxes such as paraffin wax, ceresin wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, ethylene-propylene copolymer, polyethylene wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax, as well as ester waxes such as candelilla wax, candelilla wax esters, carnauba wax, beeswax, rice wax, sunflower wax, and jojoba esters.
[0041] When the oil-based cosmetic is solid, using hydrocarbon wax at a concentration of 50% or more (up to 100%) in component (D) is preferable in terms of shape retention of the oil-based cosmetic, more preferably 50-90%, and even more preferably 65-90%. Furthermore, if the hydrocarbon wax has a melting point of 80°C or higher (preferably 80-100°C), it is even more preferable in terms of shape retention of the oil-based cosmetic.
[0042] When the oil-based cosmetic is in paste or liquid form, using an oil-based gelling agent as component (D) is preferable because it provides a smoother feel and improved usability. Furthermore, when the oil-based cosmetic is in paste or liquid form, a combination of an oil-based gelling agent and fuzzy anhydrous silicic acid as component (D) is also preferable from the viewpoint of improving adhesion and formulation stability.
[0043] Furthermore, from the viewpoint of improving stability and adhesion, it is preferable that component (D) is fuzzy anhydrous silicic acid. Moreover, it is even preferable that the content of fuzzy anhydrous silicic acid of component (D) is 0.5% or more at the lower limit and 50% or less at the upper limit, as this improves stability. Here, when hydrophobic treatment is performed as described below, the total content of hydrophobic treated fuzzy anhydrous silicic acid is considered to be the content of fuzzy anhydrous silicic acid. Note that "solid" refers to a substance that does not exhibit fluidity at 25°C, while "paste" and "liquid" refer to a substance that exhibits fluidity at 25°C.
[0044] The fume-formed anhydrous silicic acid may be hydrophobized. Methods for hydrophobization include dimethylsilylation with dimethyldichlorosilane, trimethylsilylation with trimethylchlorosilane or hexamethyldisilazane, octylsilylation with octyltrichlorosilane, silicone treatment with dimethylpolysiloxane or methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and coating with metal soap compounds. Among these, dimethylsilylation is preferred as the hydrophobization treatment because it improves stability. Examples of hydrophobized fuzzy anhydrous silicic acid include AEROSIL R104, AEROSIL R106, AEROSIL R202, AEROSIL RX200, AEROSIL RX300, AEROSIL R805, AEROSIL R812, AEROSIL R816, AEROSIL R972, AEROSIL R974, AEROSIL R976S, and AEROSIL RX50 (manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.).
[0045] The content of component (D) (total content if two or more are used) is not particularly limited, but the lower limit is preferably 0.5% or more, more preferably 1% or more, and even more preferably 5% or more relative to the total oily cosmetic composition. The upper limit is preferably 30% or less, more preferably 20% or less, and even more preferably 15% or less. This range is preferable because it can further improve usability, stability, and the durability of the cosmetic film (e.g., secondary adhesion-free effect (good color retention)).
[0046] In addition to components (A) to (D) mentioned above, the present invention may contain any components other than components (A) to (D), to the extent that they do not impair the effects of the present invention, i.e., commonly known components other than components (A) to (D), such as oily components, surfactants, powders, aqueous components, ultraviolet absorbers, humectants, antioxidants, cosmetic ingredients, preservatives, pigments, and fragrances.
[0047] In particular, as an effect of the present invention, visual effects such as suppression of color transfer and color retention are especially exhibited among the effects of cosmetic durability, so it is preferable to include colored pigments including white pigments. Examples of colored pigments include white inorganic pigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, and barium sulfate; inorganic red pigments such as red iron oxide (red iron oxide), iron hydroxide, and iron titanate; inorganic brown pigments such as γ-iron oxide; inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and ochre; inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide and carbon black; inorganic purple pigments such as manganese violet and cobalt violet; inorganic green pigments such as chromium hydroxide, chromium oxide, cobalt oxide, and cobalt titanate; inorganic blue pigments such as Prussian blue and ultramarine; Red No. 3; and Red No. 1. Examples include Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 228, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 505, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 202, Yellow No. 203, Yellow No. 204, Yellow No. 401, Blue No. 1, Blue No. 2, Blue No. 201, Blue No. 404, Green No. 3, Green No. 201, Green No. 204, Green No. 205, Orange No. 201, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Orange No. 206, Orange No. 207, etc. The content of colored pigments is set appropriately considering the coloring effect, but it is preferably 0.01 to 30% of the total oily cosmetic composition.
[0048] Other than components (A) to (D), oily components are not particularly limited as long as they can be used in the field of cosmetics, and can be solid, semi-solid, or liquid oils, and can be animal oils, vegetable oils, mineral oils, or synthetic oils.
[0049] The surfactant is not particularly limited as long as it is one that can be used in the field of cosmetics, such as ionic surfactants and nonionic surfactants.
[0050] The powders are not particularly limited in terms of shape (spherical, plate-shaped, needle-shaped, etc.), particle size (fuzzy, fine, pigment-grade, etc.), particle structure (porous, non-porous, etc.), etc., as long as they are powders commonly used in cosmetics. Examples include inorganic powders, luminous powders, organic powders, pigment powders, metal powders, and composite powders. To give specific examples, these include white inorganic pigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, and barium sulfate; colored inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, titanium-titanium oxide sintered products, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, Prussian blue, and ultramarine blue; white-extrinsic powders such as muscovite, phlogopite, red mica, biotite, synthetic mica, sericite, synthetic sericite, kaolin, silicon carbide, bentonite, smectite, anhydrous silicic acid, aluminum oxide, magnesium oxide, zirconium oxide, diatomaceous earth, aluminum silicate, magnesium aluminum metasilicate, calcium silicate, barium silicate, magnesium silicate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, and boron nitride; lustrous powders such as titanium dioxide-coated mica, titanium dioxide-coated bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide titanium mica, Prussian blue-treated titanium mica, carmine-treated titanium mica, bismuth oxychloride, and fish scale foil; polyamide resins, polyethylene resins, polyacrylic resins, and polyester resins. Organic polymer resin powders such as resins, fluororesins, cellulose resins, polystyrene resins, copolymer resins such as styrene-acrylic copolymer resins, polypropylene resins, urethane resins, zinc stearate, N-acyllysine, and other organic low molecular weight powders, natural organic powders such as silk powder and cellulose powder, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 205, Red No. 226, Red No. 228, Orange No. 203, Orange No. 204, Blue No. 404, Yellow No. 401, etc., and Red No. 3, Examples include organic pigment powders such as zirconium, barium, or aluminum lake, such as Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Orange No. 205, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Green No. 3, and Blue No. 1; metal powders such as aluminum powder, gold powder, and silver powder; composite powders such as fine-particle titanium oxide-coated titanium mica, fine-particle zinc oxide-coated titanium mica, barium sulfate-coated titanium mica, titanium oxide-containing silicon dioxide, and zinc oxide-containing silicon dioxide; and fibers such as nylon, polyester, rayon, and cellulose. These may be surface-treated with fluorine compounds, silicone oil, powders, oils, gelling agents, emulsion polymers, surfactants, etc.These powders can be used individually or in combination of two or more types, and compounded powders may also be used.
[0051] Examples of aqueous components include water, polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, and maltitol, water-soluble polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium alginate, polyvinyl alcohol, and polyvinylpyrrolidone, and viscous substances such as resins. There are no particular limitations as long as they are commonly used in cosmetics.
[0052] Examples of moisturizers include proteins, mucopolysaccharides, collagen, elastin, and keratin.
[0053] Examples of antioxidants include tocopherol and ascorbic acid; examples of cosmetic ingredients include vitamins, anti-inflammatory agents, and herbal medicines; and examples of preservatives include parahydroxybenzoic acid esters, phenoxyethanol, and 1,2-pentadiol.
[0054] Examples of UV absorbers include anthranyl-based, dibenzoylmethane-based such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid-based such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate and 2-ethoxyethyl 4-methoxycinnamate, salicylic acid-based such as ethylhexyl salicylate, camphor-based, benzophenone-based such as benzophenone-3, triazine-based such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, benzotriazole, benzalmalonate-based, benzimidazole-based, bis-benzoazolyl-based, p-aminobenzoic acid-based, diphenyl acrylate-based such as octoclerin, and urocanic acid-based.
[0055] The oil-based cosmetic composition of the present invention includes lip cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, lip treatment, lip balm, lip primer, and lipstick overcoat, as well as eye color, eyebrow powder, mascara, eyeliner, blush, sunscreen, concealer, foundation, primer, face color, body oil, and hair oil. However, it is particularly suitable as a makeup cosmetic composition because it exhibits visual effects such as suppression of color transfer and color retention, and it is more suitable for use as a lip cosmetic composition in terms of the flexibility of the cosmetic film and the effect of makeup retention.
[0056] The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is a cosmetic composition in which the outer layer is a continuous phase of an oily agent, and it is preferable that the water content is 1% or less, more preferably 0.5% or less, and substantially water-free, in order to exhibit the effects of the present invention. Here, substantially water-free means that the content of water in amounts equivalent to impurities is acceptable, and specifically, the water content in the oily cosmetic composition is preferably 0.1% by mass or less, preferably 0.01% by mass or less, and more preferably 0% by mass.
[0057] Furthermore, the present invention also provides a method for improving the longevity of oily cosmetics by combining a polyglycerin fatty acid ester in which component (A) polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate and component (B) glycerin have a degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid with 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of ester substitution is 80% or more, through a phase separation effect when it reacts with moisture on the skin or lips after application. [Examples]
[0058] The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. However, these examples do not limit the present invention in any way.
[0059] Examples 1-15 and Comparative Examples 1-6: Lip Cosmetics (Solid) Lip cosmetics obtained according to the compositions and manufacturing methods shown in Tables 1 and 2 were evaluated as follows: Evaluation 1: (a) whether the mixture of components A and B dissolves or disperses without separation at 80°C, and (b) whether it separates and gels when 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of components A and B at room temperature; and Evaluation 2: (a) lightness, (b) moisturizing effect, (c) adhesion, (d) color retention, and (e) stability. These results are also shown in Tables 1 and 2.
[0060] [Table 1-1]
[0061] [Table 1-2]
[0062] [Table 2-1]
[0063] [Table 2-2]
[0064] (Manufacturing method) A: Components (1) to (13) were heated and dissolved at 100°C to 110°C. B: Add ingredients (14) to (23) to A and mix uniformly. C:B was heated to 90°C and poured directly into a container. After cooling, an oil-based solid lipstick was obtained.
[0065] (Evaluation method for rating 1) For each sample, the mixture of components (A) and (B) was heated to 80°C and visually evaluated whether it dissolved or dispersed. Furthermore, a test was conducted at room temperature to see if the oil separated and gelled when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of components (A) and (B). The results were judged according to the following criteria.
[0066] <Evaluation Criteria> (a) Whether the mixture of component A and component B dissolves or disperses without separating at 80°C (b) When 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of a mixture of components (A) and (B) at room temperature, does the oil separate and gel? <(a) Judgment criteria> ○: The entire system is transparent or cloudy. ×: Precipitation is observed. <(b) Judgment criteria> ◎: A transparent layer is visible on top, and a gel layer is visible on the bottom. ○: A slightly transparent layer is observed in the upper layer, and a slightly gel-like layer is observed in the lower layer. ×: No separation was observed; the entire system was uniform.
[0067] As is clear from Tables 1 and 2, Examples 1 to 15 of the present invention showed that components (A) and (B) dissolved or dispersed without separation at 80°C, and separated and gelled when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of components (A) and (B) at room temperature. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1, which did not contain component (A), and Comparative Example 6, in which polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate was added instead of component (A), separation and gelling were not observed when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of components (A) and (B) at room temperature. In Comparative Examples 2 to 5, which contained a polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an ester substitution degree of less than 80% instead of component (B), separation and gelling were not observed when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of components (A) and (B) at room temperature. The average color retention scores for Examples 11 and 15 were higher than those for Example 1.
[0068] (Evaluation method for evaluation level 2) For each of the evaluation items (a) to (d) below, a usage test was conducted by a panel of 20 cosmetic evaluation specialists. Each panel member applied each sample to their lips and scored it according to the absolute evaluation criteria below. The total scores of all panel members were calculated and judged according to the following evaluation criteria.
[0069] Evaluation items (a) and (c) were assessed immediately after application, while evaluation items (b) and (d) were assessed 6 hours after the sample was applied to the lips and the panel was allowed to continue their normal daily activities. For the evaluation item (e) below, the uniformity (non-uniformity of the formulation) was evaluated one hour after filling the container.
[0070] <Evaluation Criteria> (a) No feeling of burden (whether there is no feeling of the makeup film contracting, whether there is no feeling of burden from the makeup film, whether there is no feeling of pulling on the lips, and whether there is no feeling of dryness) (b) Moisturizing feeling (c) Closeness (d) Color retention (good color retention, resistance to color transfer, and makeup longevity) (e) Stability <Absolute evaluation criteria> (Rating): (Evaluation) 4 points: Very good 3 points: Good 2 points: Slightly bad 1 point: Bad <Judgment criteria> (Judgment): (Average score) ◎: 3.25 points or higher ○: 2.5 points or more and less than 3.25 points △: 1.75 points or higher, but less than 2.5 points ×: Less than 1.75 points.
[0071] As is clear from Tables 1 and 2, Examples 1 to 15 of the present invention were excellent in all evaluation items, including lack of burden, moisturizing effect, adhesion, color retention, and stability. On the other hand, Comparative Examples 1 and 6, which did not contain component (A), were insufficiently effective, lacking adhesion and color retention. Comparative Examples 2 and 3, which contained polyglycerin fatty acid esters with an ester substitution degree of 80% or less instead of component (B), did not provide adhesion or color retention, and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 showed inferior color retention.
[0072] Examples 16-20 and Comparative Examples 7-10: Lip Cosmetics (Liquid Rouge) Lip cosmetics obtained according to the composition and manufacturing method shown in Table 3 were evaluated as follows: Evaluation 1: (a) whether the mixture of components A and B dissolves or disperses without separation at 80°C, and (b) whether it separates and gels when 5 parts by mass of water is added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of components A and B at room temperature; and Evaluation 2: (a) lightness, (b) moisturizing effect, (c) adhesion, (d) color retention, and (e) stability. These results are also shown in Table 3.
[0073] [Table 3-1]
[0074] [Table 3-2]
[0075] (Manufacturing method) A: Components (1) to (6) were heated and dissolved at 80°C to 90°C. B: Components (7) to (15) were added to A and mixed uniformly at room temperature. After degassing C:B, it was poured directly to obtain an oil-based liquid rouge.
[0076] As is clear from Table 3, Examples 16-20 of the present invention showed that the mixture of component (A) and component (B) dissolved or dispersed without separation at 80°C, and separated and gelled when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of component (A) and component (B) at room temperature. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 7, which did not contain component (A), Comparative Example 9, in which polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate was added instead of component (A), and Comparative Example 10, in which polyglyceryl-10 triisostearate was added instead of component (A), separation and gelling were not observed when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of component (A) and component (B) at room temperature. In Comparative Example 8, which contained a polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an ester substitution degree of 80% or less instead of component (B), separation and gelling were not observed when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture of component (A) and component (B) at room temperature.
[0077] As is clear from Table 3, Examples 16-20 of the present invention were excellent in all evaluation items, including lack of burden, moisturizing effect, adhesion, color retention, and stability. On the other hand, Comparative Example 7, which did not contain component (A), Comparative Example 9, in which polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate was added instead of component (A), and Comparative Example 10, in which polyglyceryl-10 triisostearate was added instead of component (A), were insufficiently effective as adhesion and color retention were not obtained. Comparative Example 8, which contained a polyglycerin fatty acid ester with an ester substitution degree of 80% or less instead of component (B), was also insufficiently effective as color retention was not obtained.
[0078] Example 21: Oil-based pourable eye color (solid) (Ingredients) (%) 1. (Ethylene / Propylene) Copolymer (Component (D)) 3 2. Microcrystalline wax (ingredient (D)) 2 3. Rice wax (ingredient (D)) 1.5 4. Polyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate (Degree of esterification 83.3%) (Component (B)) 22 5. Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate (Hardness II / Hardness I=8.7) (Component (A)) 10 6. Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraisostearate *6 (Ingredient (B)) 10 7. Dialkyl(C14,15) carbonate 3 8. Dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / isostearyl) (Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl) 5 9. Diisostearyl malate (remaining amount) 10. Nylon powder 5 11. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone *7 (Ingredient (C)) 15 12.2,6-Di-tert-butyl-para-cresol 0.01 13. Dimethylsilylated silica *8 (Component (D), fuming anhydrous silicic acid) 1 14.1,3-Butylene glycol 0.5 15. Red No. 202 0.2 16. Ultramarine 0.1 17. Titanium dioxide 1 18. Black iron oxide 0.01 19. Titanium dioxide-coated borosilicate (Ca / Al)*9 5 20. Silver / titanium oxide coated borosilicate (Ca / Al)*10 3 21. Tocopherol acetate 0.1 22. Hyaluronic acid 0.1 23. Collagen 0.1 24. Dimethicone (20CS)*11 (Ingredient (C)) 5 25.Fragrance 0.1 *7: BELSIL PDM 1000 (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Wacker Silicone Co., Ltd.) *8: AEROSIL R976S (manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.) *9: Microglass Metashine MT1080RB (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.) *10: Microglass Metashine MC2080PS (manufactured by Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd.) *11: KF-96A-20cs (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.) (Manufacturing method) A: Components (1) to (9) were heated and dissolved at 100°C to 110°C. B: Add ingredients (10) to (23) to A and mix uniformly. After degassing C:B, components (24) and (25) were added and mixed uniformly. D:C was heated to 110°C and poured directly into a metal dish. After cooling, an oil-based pourable eye color was obtained.
[0079] The eye color of Example 21 was satisfactory in all aspects, including lightness of wear, moisturizing effect, adhesion, color retention, and stability. The mixture of components (A) and (B) dissolved or dispersed without separation at 80°C, and separated and gelled when 5 parts by mass of water was added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture at room temperature. The total amount of components (A) and (B) was 42%, the total amount of components (B) and (C) was 52%, and (A) / (B) = 0.31.
[0080] Example 22: Oil-based stick blush (Ingredients) (%) 1. (Ethylene / Propylene) Copolymer (Component (D)) 2.5 2. Fischer-Tropsch wax (ingredient (D)) 3.8 3. Candelilla wax esters (ingredient (D)) 1 4. Carnauba wax (Component (D)) 0.2 5. Polybutene 7.5 6. Polyglyceryl-10 Decaethylhexanoate *2 (Component (B)) 11 7. Polyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate (Degree of esterification 83.3%) (Component (B)) 10 8. Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate (Hardness II / Hardness I=8.7) (Component (A)) 5 9. Diglyceryl triisostearate 2 10. Trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane *12 (Component (C)) 20 11. Phenoxyethanol 0.3 12.1,2-Pentylene glycol 0.2 13.Atomized silicic anhydride *13 (ingredient (D)) 2 14. Zinc Oxide 1 15. Nylon - 12 * 14 5 16. Polymethyl methacrylate *15 10 17. Mica remaining amount 18. Perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane 3% treated titanium mica 5 19. Perfluorooctyltriethoxysilane 3% treated iron oxide coated mica titanium 2 20. Triethoxycaprylylsilane 2% treated red iron oxide 0.01 21. Triethoxycaprylylsilane 2% treated yellow iron oxide 0.1 22. Triethoxycaprylylsilane 2% treated black iron oxide 0.001 23. Triethoxycaprylylsilane 2% treated titanium dioxide 0.2 24. Rosemary extract 0.1 25. Hydrogenated polyisobutene *16 10 *12: FZ-3156 (manufactured by Toray Dow Corning) *13: AEROSIL 380S (manufactured by Nippon Aerosil Co., Ltd.) *14: Olgasol 2002D (manufactured by Arkema) *15: Gantzpearl GM-2800 (manufactured by Aica Kogyo Co., Ltd.) *16: IP Solvent 1620 MU (manufactured by Idemitsu Kogyo Co., Ltd.) (Manufacturing method) A: Components (1) to (9) were heated and dissolved at 100°C to 110°C. B: Components (10) to (24) were added to A and mixed uniformly. After degassing C:B, component (25) was added and mixed uniformly. D:C was heated to 110°C and poured directly into a container. After cooling, an oil-based stick-type blush was obtained.
[0081] The blush of Example 22 was satisfactory in all aspects, including lightness of feel, moisturizing effect, adherence, color retention, and stability. The mixture of components (A) and (B) dissolved or dispersed without separation at 80°C, and separated and gelled when 5% by mass of water was added to 95% by mass of the mixture at room temperature. The total amount of components (A) and (B) was 26%, the total amount of components (B) and (C) was 41%, and (A) / (B) = 0.24.
[0082] Example 23: Oil-based lip gloss (paste type) (Ingredients) (%) 1. Polyglyceryl-10 Decaethylhexanoate *2 (Component (B)) 20 2. Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate (Hardness II / Hardness I=8.7) (Component (A)) 8 3. Dextrin palmitate (ingredient (D)) 5 4. (Palmitic acid / 2-ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin (Ingredient (D)) 4 5. Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl / phytosteryl / behenyl) *17 10 6. Dimethylsilylated silica*8 (Component (D)) 0.5 7. Diglyceryl triisostearate (remaining amount) 8. Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone *5 (Component (C)) 6 9. Heavy liquid isoparaffin *18 10 10. Tocopherol 0.01 11. Polysilicone-15 0.5 12. Red No. 202 0.02 13. Yellow No. 4 0.005 14. Titanium dioxide 0.05 15. Black iron oxide 0.001 16. Red No. 218 0.04 17. (PET / Polymethyl methacrylate) laminate 1 18. Aluminum powder 0.5 19. Olive oil 0.001 20. Camellia oil 0.001 21. Shea butter 0.01 22. Rice bran oil 0.001 23. Lavender oil 0.001 24. Grape polyphenols 0.001 25.Fragrance 0.02 *17: Eldew PS-306 (manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.) *18: Pearl Ream 46 (manufactured by NOF Corporation) (Manufacturing method) A: Components (1) to (11) were heated and dissolved at 80°C to 90°C. B: Components (12) to (16) were added to A and mixed uniformly using a bead mill. Components (17) to (25) were added to C:B and mixed uniformly. After degassing D:C, it was heated to 90°C, poured directly into a tube container, and allowed to cool to obtain an oily lip gloss.
[0083] The oil-based lip gloss of Example 23 was satisfactory in all aspects, including lightness, moisturizing effect, adhesion, color retention, and stability. The mixture of components (A) and (B) dissolved or dispersed without separation at 80°C, and separated and gelled when 5 parts by mass of water were added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture at room temperature. The total amount of components (A) and (B) was 28%, the total amount of components (B) and (C) was 26%, and (A) / (B) = 0.4.
[0084] Example 24: Oil-based solid eyebrow pencil (Ingredients) (%) 1. Polyglyceryl-10 Diisostearate (Hardness II / Hardness I=8.7) (Component (A)) 9 2. Polyglyceryl-10 Decaisostearate (Ester substitution degree 83.3%) (Component (B)) 20 3. (Hexadecene / VP) Copolymer 5 4. Diphenyl dimethicone *4 (Component (C)) 30 5. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 8 6. Tridecyl Trimellitate 3 7. Polyethylene wax (Component (D)) 4 8. Microcrystalline wax (ingredient (D)) 1 9. Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate (remaining amount) 10. Hollow silica 10 11. Black iron oxide 0.5 12. Yellow iron oxide 0.3 13. Bengara (red iron oxide pigment) 0.2 14. Panthenol 0.001 15. Cherry leaf extract 0.001 16. Green tea extract 0.001 17. Ascorbic acid glucoside 0.01 (Manufacturing method) A: Components (1) to (4) and (6) to (9) were heated and dissolved at 100°C to 110°C. B: Components (10) to (13) were added to A and mixed uniformly using a roll mill. After degassing C:B, components (5) and (14) to (17) were added and mixed uniformly at 90°C. D:C was poured into a dish-shaped container and cooled to room temperature to obtain an oil-based solid eyebrow product.
[0085] The oil-based solid eyebrow product of Example 24 was satisfactory in all aspects, including lightness of application, moisturizing effect, adhesion, color retention, and stability. The mixture of components (A) and (B) dissolved or dispersed without separation at 80°C, and separated and gelled when 5 parts by mass of water were added to 95 parts by mass of the mixture at room temperature. The total amount of components (A) and (B) was 29%, the total amount of components (B) and (C) was 50%, and (A) / (B) = 0.45.
[0086] This application is based on Japanese Patent Application No. 2021-98976, filed on June 14, 2021, the disclosures of which are referenced and incorporated in whole.
Claims
1. The following components (A) and (B): (A) Polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate (B) Contains a polyglycerol fatty acid ester in which the degree of polymerization of glycerol is 2 to 12, the fatty acid is a branched fatty acid having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and the degree of esterification is 80% or more. Furthermore, it is an oily cosmetic containing ingredient (C) phenyl-modified silicone.
2. The oily cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of component (A) and component (B) is 25 to 75% by mass of the entire oily cosmetic composition.
3. The oily cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the total amount of component (B) and component (C) is 45% by mass or more of the total amount of the oily cosmetic composition.
4. Furthermore, the oily cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising component (D) wax and / or an oily gelling agent.
5. The oily cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mass ratio of component (A) to component (B) (A) / (B) is 0.01 to 1.
2.
6. The oily cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the component (D) is fuzzy anhydrous silicic acid.
7. A method for improving the longevity of oily cosmetics by combining component (A) polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, component (B) a polyglycerin fatty acid ester having a degree of polymerization of glycerin of 2 to 12, a branched fatty acid with 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and a degree of esterification of 80% or more, and component (C) phenyl-modified silicone, through a phase separation effect when it reacts with moisture on the skin or lips after application.
Citation Information
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