Manufacturing method of suede like knit fabric

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric that simplifies the process and significantly reduces the defect rate caused by the conventional embrittlement process by improving the dyeing and embrittlement processes and improving the process of forming nap on one side when processing a double fabric woven with polyester on one side and modal on the other side. The present invention discloses a method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric comprising: (a) a knitting process for preparing a suede fabric by combining modal and polyester; (b) a dyeing process for dyeing the prepared knitted fabric in one bath and two dyes; (c) an embrittlement process for embrittlement of the knitted fabric after the dyeing process is completed; (d) a brushing process for forming nap on one side of the knitted fabric after the embrittlement process is completed; and (e) a post-processing process for post-processing after the brushing process is completed.

Description

Technology Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing suede-like knit fabric, and more specifically, to a method for manufacturing suede-like knit fabric that simplifies the process and significantly reduces the defect rate caused by the conventional brittleness process by improving the dyeing and brittleness processes and improving the process of forming nap on one side when processing a double fabric woven with polyester on one side and modal on the other. Background Technology

[0003] As shown in the attached drawing Fig. 1, the process of processing a double-woven fabric, i.e., suede fabric, is as follows: polyester yarn and modal are prepared, and the prepared yarns are knitted on a knitting machine to prepare a double-woven knitted fabric. Then, the cotton made of polyester yarn is dyed in the first stage. At this time, a debridging agent is simultaneously introduced during the polyester dyeing process to carry out the debridging process simultaneously with the dyeing. Once the first dyeing and debridging process is completed, the knitted fabric is then continuously introduced into a prepared dyeing tank, and the cotton knitted with modal, which is the other side, is dyed in the second stage.

[0004] After the second dyeing is completed, the fabric is dried while moving it through a roller. After drying, the knitted fabric is repeatedly cut into uniform sizes, and the cut fabric is folded in half. Then, the three sides of the folded fabric are sewn using sewing thread. The sewn fabric is placed into a device for forming nap, and the modal surface of the fabric is struck against an impact device installed in the device to form nap on the surface of the modal.

[0005] After removing sewing threads, etc. from the sewn surface of the knitted fabric with napping formed thereon, the raw material is prepared as is in the size of the cut fabric, or the cut knitted fabric is formed by joining the folded parts in the longitudinal direction by sewing, and then wound up to complete the manufacturing process.

[0006] However, since this conventional manufacturing method involves the simultaneous introduction of a brittle agent during the primary polyester dyeing process, the brittleness defect rate on the modal surface is about 50%, resulting in a high rate of defects caused by the brittleness process. Furthermore, the washing process is a labor-intensive, backward-country-style production process, which limits the production of high-value-added products through the modification of the fiber surface. Therefore, there is a need for the development of technology that can convert this into an eco-friendly process capable of automation and continuous operation. Prior art literature

[0008] Korean Registered Patent Publication No. 10-1794976 Korean Registered Patent Publication No. 10-1357834 Korean Registered Patent Publication No. 10-1936465 Korean Registered Patent Publication No. 10-1016161 Korean Registered Patent Publication No. 10-1002292 The problem to be solved

[0009] The present invention was devised to improve upon the aforementioned conventional problems. Its objective is to provide a method for manufacturing suede-like knit fabric that reduces the defect rate caused by the embrittlement process by improving the conventional two-bath, two-stage dyeing and embrittlement process of dyeing and embrittlement into a one-bath, two-dyeing process of dyeing and embrittlement, and to increase productivity by improving the product process and automating the process of forming nap on one side, thereby moving away from a labor-intensive form. means of solving the problem

[0011] A method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric according to the present invention, which solves the above-mentioned problem, comprises: (a) a knitting process for preparing a suede fabric, which is a double fabric woven with one side being polyester and the other side being modal by combining modal and polyester; (b) a dyeing process for dyeing the prepared knitted fabric in one bath and two dyes; (c) a debridging process for debridging the knitted fabric after the dyeing process is completed; and (d) a brushing process for forming nap on one side of the knitted fabric after the debridging process is completed. (e) A post-processing process performed after the brushing process is completed; comprising, wherein the knitting process involves preparing 20's to 50's Modal, 75D to 150D Polyester yarns, and 20's to 30's Spandex yarns, and knitting in the form of a Single double-layer fabric and Rib structure by arranging the Modal yarn on the top and the Polyester yarn on the bottom to knit in a double-structure form so as to maintain the brush surface effect and strength of the Modal, and the dyeing process involves conducting a Modal / Polyester blend dyeing process using a 1-bath 2-stage dyeing method, wherein, in the first stage, disperse dyes for polyester dyeing are used with a pH of 4.5 to 6, the temperature is raised from 40℃ to 130℃, a leveling time of less than 1 hour is performed, and reductive washing and hot water rinsing are carried out, and subsequently, in the second stage, Modal The dyeing process is completed by performing 60°C dyeing using reactive dyes in the same bath for dyeing, followed by a leveling time of less than 1 hour and a soaping process; the embrittlement process may be performed using immersion dyeing or the CPB method, and the embrittlement process lowers the pH of the padding bath to 4 using any one selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, formic acid, and sulfuric acid.5~6. After immersion, the padding fabric is maintained at 100% pick-up, and the surface of the modal fabric is embrittled by rotating the beam trolley at 45 rpm / min at a temperature of 20~30℃ for 8~24 hours to obtain a suede-like surface effect. In the above immersion dyeing, the treatment temperature is 60~100℃ or lower and the time is 10~60 minutes, while in the embrittlement process using the CPB method, embrittlement is carried out through treatment at a temperature of 20~30℃ and a time of 8~24 hours. The above brushing process is performed using a rotary brush (rpm: 20~100) composed of silicon carbide and ceramic at a brushing process device operating speed of 5m / min~30m / min, with tension conditions of Drum tension 30kg, Taker-in tension 6kg, Fabric return tension 15kg, and Plaiter tension 6kg. During brush rotation, the fabric is prevented from folding and sagging, fabric damage due to excessive tension, and left-right movement of the fabric during operation. The balance is adjusted to create a high-density pitch effect on the surface of the embrittled modal fabric, and the post-processing process is characterized by shrinking the fabric that has been relaxed by passing the fabric, which has completed the brushing process, through the relaxation tank of the tenter process, and mixing Micro and Macro type emulsion silicone softeners at 5~20% each to impart a unique touch to the fabric, then immersing and squeezing (pick up 80%) the fabric and heat treating it under conditions of 25 m / min and 190℃ based on an 8-chamber tenter.

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[0024] The method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric provided according to the present invention optimizes the napping process when forming nap on one side, reduces the defect rate of napping formation through process automation, and shortens the process time. In the conventional dyeing and embrittlement process, due to the characteristics of double-woven suede fabrics composed of yarns of different properties, the process is complex and has the disadvantage of a high defect rate due to the embrittlement process, as one side is dyed first, followed by an embrittlement process, and then the other side is dyed. However, the manufacturing method of the present invention improves the process by preparing a double-woven fabric (knit), performing the dyeing process simultaneously in one bath, and immediately performing the embrittlement process. This simplifies the process, allowing the process time to be drastically shortened compared to the conventional process time, and also has the advantage of minimizing the defect rate due to the embrittlement process.

[0025] In addition, the manufacturing method according to the present invention has the advantage of significantly reducing production costs required for the process by significantly improving the consumption of water, electricity, etc., conventionally used due to the simplification of the process and the automation of each process, and also providing an environmentally friendly process by reducing the amount of waste, such as wastewater, discharged due to the reduction in consumption. Brief explanation of the drawing

[0027] Figure 1 is a process diagram illustrating a conventional method for manufacturing suede-like knit fabrics. FIG. 2 is a block diagram illustrating a method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric according to the present invention. FIG. 3 is a diagram comparing the manufacturing method of the suede-like knit fabric of the present invention with a conventional manufacturing method. FIG. 4 illustrates an embodiment of a brushing process apparatus according to the present invention. Specific details for implementing the invention

[0028] The present invention will be described in more detail below.

[0029] The inventors of the present invention aim to provide a method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric that simplifies the process and dramatically improves the defect rate by improving the dyeing and brittleness processes of knit fabrics formed from a polyester / modal composition, particularly in the manufacture of conventional suede-like knit fabrics, and by improving the brushing process performed during nap formation.

[0030] More specifically, referring to the attached drawing Fig. 2, the method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric according to the present invention, which achieves the above objective, is characterized by comprising: (a) a knitting process for preparing a suede fabric, which is a double fabric woven with one side being polyester and the other side being modal by combining modal and polyester; (b) a dyeing process for dyeing the prepared knitted fabric in one bath and two dyes; (c) a debridging process for debridging the knitted fabric after the dyeing process is completed; (d) a brushing process for forming nap on one side of the knitted fabric after the debridging process is completed; and (e) a post-processing process for post-processing after the brushing process is completed.

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[0037] According to the present invention, preferably, the knitting process is prepared with modal, polyester yarn, and spandex yarn, wherein the modal is prepared as 20's to 50's modal, the polyester yarn as 75D to 150D polyester yarn, and the spandex yarn as 20's to 30's spandex yarn, and the modal yarn is arranged toward the top and the polyester yarn as the bottom so as to knit in a double structure form, so as to maintain the brush surface effect and strength of the modal, it is preferable to knit in the form of a single double fabric and a rib structure. At this time, the prepared yarn is knitted at a speed of 30 to 38 inches, a loop length of 10 to 25 cm, and a circular knitting speed of 10 to 20 rpm so that the upper part is modal and the lower part is polyester. If the ratio of modal yarn increases to more than 80%, the overall strength of the fabric decreases due to the embrittlement of the modal, so care must be taken during the embrittlement process.

[0038] According to the present invention, in the dyeing process, when using disperse dyes for polyester dyeing, the process generally involves a pH of 4.5 to 6, a temperature increase from 40°C to 130°C, a leveling time of less than 1 hour, a reducing wash, and a hot water wash. At this time, an embrittlement agent is added to embrittle the modal, and once the polyester dyeing is finished, a 60°C dyeing process using reactive dyes is performed using an atmospheric pressure dyeing device for modal dyeing, a leveling time of less than 1 hour, and a soaping process to complete the process. However, at this time, the embrittlement of the modal results in more than 50% of defects due to uneven embrittlement caused by differences in process and time depending on the polyester dyeing and the modal dyeing color. Therefore, in order to solve the problem of uneven embrittlement, it is necessary to separate the dyeing process and the embrittlement process. In order to solve these problems, the present invention adopts a method of separating the dyeing process and the embrittlement process. Preferably, the dyeing process is a 1-bath 2-stage dyeing process for a modal / polyester blend. The dyeing process is carried out by first dyeing polyester using a disperse dye with a pH of 4.5 to 6, raising the temperature from 40°C to 130°C, a leveling time of less than 1 hour, reducing wash, and hot water wash. Then, the dyeing process is completed by secondly dyeing modal in the same bath using a reactive dye at 60°C, a leveling time of less than 1 hour, and a soaping process.

[0039] At this time, the dyeing process is a 1-bath 2-stage dyeing process, and it is easy to predict color changes caused by embrittlement and brushing processes after confirming the same color concentration and color before the embrittlement process. This prevents discoloration and additional dyeing processes caused by uneven process defects resulting from differences in the embrittlement and modal dyeing processes during conventional polyester dyeing, which have an adverse effect on changes in the physical properties of the fabric.

[0041] According to the present invention, the embrittlement process is performed after high-pressure dyeing as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, and can be selected from CPB embrittlement or high-pressure dyeing machine embrittlement. Preferably, the embrittlement process described above can be performed using a high-pressure dyeing machine embrittlement (immersion dyeing) or an embrittlement process using the CPB method. The embrittlement process is performed by using one selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, formic acid, and sulfuric acid to maintain the pH of the padding bath at 4.5 to 6 and the pick-up of the padding fabric at 100% after immersion, and by aging the fabric for 8 to 24 hours by rotating the beam carriage at 45 rpm / min at a temperature of 20 to 30°C to embrittle the surface of the modal fabric, thereby obtaining a surface effect similar to suede. In the immersion dyeing process, the embrittlement is carried out at a treatment temperature of 60 to 100°C or lower and for 10 to 60 minutes, while in the embrittlement process using the CPB method, the embrittlement is carried out at a treatment temperature of 20 to 30°C and for 8 to 24 hours.

[0042] At this time, the CPB process can resolve the problem of rapid changes in the physical properties of the fabric through low-temperature padding and aging processes, and can form uniform fibrils on the surface of the fabric, and can resolve the problems of shattering and uneven surface treatment through the expansion method.

[0044] At this time, if the pH conditions of the above embrittlement process are too low and the process is performed at a high temperature, it helps in the formation of fibrils but causes a problem of reduced physical strength of the fabric; conversely, if the pH is high or the temperature is low, the physical strength of the fabric can be maintained but the effect of fibril formation may be insufficient.

[0045] According to the present invention, with reference to the brushing process apparatus shown in FIG. 4, the brushing process is preferably characterized by using a rotary brush (rpm: 20~100) composed of silicon carbide and ceramic at a brushing process apparatus operating speed of 5 m / min to 30 m / min, and by adjusting the left-right balance of the fabric during operation to prevent folding and sagging of the fabric, fabric damage due to excessive tension, and the creation of a high-density pitch effect on the surface of the embrittled modal fabric when the brush rotates under tension conditions of Drum tension 30 kg, taker-in tension 6 kg, fabric return tension 15 kg, and Plaiter tension 6 kg.

[0046] At this time, the brush fabric slides around the drum, and the supply of the fabric is controlled according to the tension, and the fabric exiting the main drum controls the speed of the fabric sliding out of the Fabric return and Platier roller.

[0048] According to the present invention, the technical feature of the post-processing process is preferably to shrink the fabric that has been relaxed by passing the fabric, which has completed the brushing process, through the relaxation tank of the tenter process, and to impart a unique touch to the fabric by mixing and treating the fabric with Micro and Macro type emulsion silicone softeners at 5 to 20% each, and then immersing and squeezing (pick up 80%) the fabric and heat treating it under conditions of 25 m / min and 190°C based on an 8-chamber tenter.

Claims

Claim 1 (a) a knitting process for preparing a suede fabric, which is a double-layered fabric woven with one side being polyester and the other side being modal by combining modal and polyester; (b) a dyeing process for dyeing the prepared knitted fabric in one bath and two dyes; (c) a debridging process for debridging the knitted fabric after the dyeing process is completed; (d) a brushing process for forming nap on one side of the knitted fabric after the debridging process is completed; (e) a post-processing process performed after the brushing process is completed; comprising, wherein the knitting process involves preparing 20's to 50's modal, 75D to 150D polyester yarns, and 20's to 30's spandex yarns, and knitting in the form of a single double-layer fabric and a rib structure by arranging the modal yarns on the upper side and the polyester yarns on the lower side to knit in a double-structure form so as to maintain the brush surface effect and strength of the modal, and the dyeing process involves conducting a single-bath modal / polyester blend dyeing process, wherein, first, for polyester dyeing, a disperse dye with a pH of 4.5 to 6, a temperature increase from 40℃ to 130℃, a leveling time of within 1 hour, reductive washing, and hot water rinsing are performed, and subsequently, for modal dyeing, a second The dyeing process is completed by performing dyeing at 60°C using reactive dyes in the same bath, followed by a leveling time of less than 1 hour and a soaping process; the embrittlement process may be performed using immersion dyeing or the CPB method, and the embrittlement process lowers the pH of the padding bath to 4 using any one selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, formic acid, and sulfuric acid.5~6. After immersion, the padding fabric is maintained at 100% pick-up, and the surface of the modal fabric is embrittled by rotating the beam trolley at 45 rpm / min at a temperature of 20~30℃ for 8~24 hours to obtain a suede-like surface effect. In the above immersion dyeing, the treatment temperature is 60~100℃ or lower and the time is 10~60 minutes, while in the embrittlement process using the CPB method, embrittlement is carried out through treatment at a temperature of 20~30℃ and a time of 8~24 hours. The above brushing process is performed using a rotary brush (rpm: 20~100) composed of silicon carbide and ceramic at a brushing process device operating speed of 5m / min~30m / min, with tension conditions of Drum tension 30kg, Taker-in tension 6kg, Fabric return tension 15kg, and Plaiter tension 6kg. During brush rotation, the fabric is prevented from folding and sagging, fabric damage due to excessive tension, and left-right movement of the fabric during operation. A method for manufacturing a suede-like knit fabric, characterized by adjusting the balance to create a high-density pitch effect on the surface of the softened modal fabric, and the post-processing process involves shrinking the fabric that has been relaxed by passing the fabric, after the brushing process is completed, through a relaxation tank of a tenter process, and mixing Micro and Macro type emulsion silicone softeners at 5~20% each to impart a unique touch to the fabric, then immersing and squeezing the fabric (pick up 80%) and heat treating it under conditions of 25 m / min and 190°C based on an 8-chamber tenter. Claim 2 delete Claim 3 delete Claim 4 delete Claim 5 delete Claim 6 delete Claim 7 delete

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