Topically administerable lysate of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoekas for moisturizing the skin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a topically administerable lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas for improving the moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips.

Description

Technology Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the plant Helichrysum stoaecas (for moisturizing human skin and / or scalp and / or lips, more particularly dry, / or reactive, or sensitive skin) Helichrysum stoechas This relates to a locally administerable lysate of dedifferentiated cells. Background Technology

[0002] Moisturization is a skin characteristic involving complex mechanisms that are not yet fully understood. These mechanisms are found in all layers of the skin.

[0003] The skin constitutes the boundary between the internal medium (or the human body) and the external environment. As a result, and due to the bacterial communities that cover and inhabit it, the skin functions to perform a protective mission by forming a particularly essential true barrier. In particular, the skin enables the prevention of dehydration by restricting the diffusion of water from the outside of the body.

[0004] Due to its position as a boundary with the external environment, the skin experiences numerous daily stressors, such as contact with clothing, temperature changes, exposure to ultraviolet rays from direct sunlight, changes in humidity levels, contact with certain irritating chemicals, or contact with chemicals considered to be contaminants.

[0005] The skin consists of different tissue layers:

[0006] - The epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin composed of keratinocytes, followed by

[0007] - The dermis, a connective tissue composed mainly of fibroblasts and extracellular matrix, and

[0008] - Subcutaneous tissue composed of fat cells, which is the deepest part and furthest from the external environment.

[0009] The skin performs various functions for the entire system of interest it protects, including the following:

[0010] - Mechanical barrier function to ensure the integrity of the internal body medium,

[0011] - Excretory function aimed at the secretion of sweat based on water, salt, and acidic waste,

[0012] - Functions for regulating body temperature and numerous other regulatory mechanisms, e.g., mechanisms of adaptation and protection against ultraviolet radiation (adaptive pigmentation through melanin production), e.g., immune monitoring systems through the presence of macrophages or dendritic cells.

[0013] Human skin also becomes the first image seen by others.

[0014] Consequently, improving one's appearance is a constant concern for humans. The skin often reflects a state of well-being associated with youth and, in contrast, fatigue and / or aging. As a result, preserving and improving the condition of the outermost layer of the skin—namely, the epidermis—is a major focus of research conducted in the cosmetics industry.

[0015] Peripheral to the epidermis is an upper keratinized layer known as the stratum corneum, which is the first layer of the epidermis to which stress of external origin, such as changes in external climatic conditions (temperature, humidity, ultraviolet radiation, pollutants) or mechanical stress is applied.

[0016] This is why improving or maintaining a satisfactory appearance of human skin consists specifically of maintaining optimal and satisfactory hydration of the stratum corneum. This also enables the avoidance of aesthetic and physiological defects associated with skin dryness. Furthermore, dry or extremely dry skin is a chronic condition that can be linked to genetic dysfunction: it is a skin type, just as there are oily skin types, combination skin types, and so on.

[0017] However, in addition to constitutional dryness, there are also skin dryness conditions caused by external, climatic, or environmental factors, skin conditions (atopic eczema, psoriasis, etc.), general diseases (thyroid, diabetes, nutritional deficiencies), and / or medical treatments. The skin no longer effectively performs its barrier function: it becomes dehydrated. Therefore, skin dryness is caused by the weakening or damage of the skin's barrier function.

[0018] Dry skin is primarily characterized by the following:

[0019] - Minor peeling;

[0020] - Presence of roughness;

[0021] - Presence of blushing;

[0022] - Chapping or micro-cracked appearance;

[0023] - Elastic loss;

[0024] - Occurrence of skin sensitization manifesting as slight tightness, tingling, itching, and pain.

[0025] Consequently, ensuring excellent hydration of the upper layer of the epidermis requires the stratum corneum to be as follows:

[0026] - Maintenance of skin elasticity;

[0027] - Skin protection against external damage;

[0028] - Excellent function of hydrolytic enzymes involved in the exfoliation mechanism to ensure optimal epidermal recovery;

[0029] - Optimal contribution to skin barrier function.

[0030] Sensitive skin is defined by the specific reactivity of the skin.

[0031] This skin reactivity typically manifests as the appearance of uncomfortable signs, such as flushing, in response to an individual coming into contact with triggers that can have various origins.

[0032] This has recently been defined as follows: "A syndrome defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations (tingling, burning, pain, pruritus, and tingling) in response to stimuli that should not normally cause such sensations. These sensations cannot be explained by lesions attributable to any skin disease. The skin may appear normal or may be accompanied by erythema. Sensitive skin can affect all parts of the body and especially the face."

[0033] Environmental factors, such as exposure to ultraviolet or infrared rays and / or air pollution and / or sudden temperature changes and / or wind, or lifestyle (dietary habits or the application of cosmetic products to the skin surface), or physiological factors, such as stress or endogenous hormones, have been recognized as potentially causing or exacerbating the symptoms of sensitive skin. Two primary reasons can explain the symptoms of sensitive skin: first, increased permeability of the stratum corneum, and second, the excessive secretion of specific neurotransmitters by superficial nerve endings and pro-inflammatory cytokines. Specific details for implementing the invention

[0034] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sensitive skin" includes hypersensitive skin and intolerance skin.

[0035] Intolerance skin is skin that reacts to various factors, such as the application of cosmetics, dermatological products, or soaps, with sensations of heat, tightness, tingling, and / or redness. Generally, these signs are associated with erythema with or without dry patches, and with hyperseborrheic or acne-prone skin, or even rosacea.

[0036] Hypersensitive skin is skin that reacts to various factors such as the environment, emotions, food, wind, friction, shaving, hard water with a high calcium content, temperature changes, humidity, or wool with pruritus, that is, itching or stinging.

[0037] Based on this, the problem that arises is providing compounds to moisturize the skin and / or scalp.

[0038] One solution according to the present invention is a topically administerable lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas for improving moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips.

[0039] The term "locally administered" means that the solution is formulated to be administered topically.

[0040] Lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoaecas may be an active ingredient for improving the moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, it may be believed that the moisturization of the skin and, more particularly, the stratum corneum is improved by bringing the skin into contact with a compound having a “moisturizing effect.”

[0042] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "moisturizing effect" means the following:

[0043] - Reduction of transepidermal water loss, and / or

[0044] - Reduction in the intercellular space between keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, and / or

[0045] - Increase in stratum corneum thickness, and / or

[0046] - Restoration or improvement of barrier function, and / or

[0047] - Increase in the lacunar zone, and / or

[0048] - As an increase in the moisture content of the stratum corneum,

[0049] This is obtained from the topical application of a chemical substance or composition to the surface of the skin being treated.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a topically administerable lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas for preventing or delaying the appearance of external signs of human skin aging, e.g., wrinkles, fine lines, damage to the skin texture (microrelief), lack of elasticity and / or tonicity, and lack of density and / or firmness of human skin.

[0051] In fact, there is a link between skin aging and hydration. Moisture is an essential component of the skin and scalp. When the epidermis is sufficiently hydrated and moisture-rich, it will have a plump and smooth appearance. Conversely, dehydration has the opposite effect on its quality, particularly leading to the appearance of wrinkles, bags under the eyes, and a gray complexion. Dehydration is one of the natural consequences of aging. The epidermis has the ability to absorb moisture and maintain optimal hydration. However, this ability decreases with age. Consequently, the aging of skin cells causes a decrease in the proportion of hyaluronic acid, which plays a role in "trapping" water molecules within the epidermis. This is compounded by a decline in hormone secretion that occurs around the age of 50. Therefore, the skin's moisture level gradually decreases.

[0052] In addition, the solution according to the present invention may be administered topically to moisturize the skin after shaving the face or to moisturize the scalp after cleansing and / or treating the scalp.

[0053] Preferably, the lysate (Ly) is derived from the high-pressure homogenization of a culture of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas.

[0054] The process for obtaining a lysate of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas according to the present invention preferably comprises the following steps:

[0055] a) Preparation of sterilization samples of the plant Helichrysum stoechas

[0056] b) Callogenesis

[0057] c) Suspension

[0058] d) Selection of fine suspension

[0059] e) Biomass production

[0060] f) High-pressure homogenization of the culture

[0061] g) Stabilization of culture lysates of dedifferentiated cells.

[0062] As long as the physiological needs of the cells are taken into account, from step e), dedifferentiated cells are cultured, and since this can be used indefinitely to generate biomass, steps a), b), c), and d) do not need to be repeated.

[0063] Steps b), c), d), and e) must be performed under sterile conditions to maintain the culture under sterile conditions.

[0064] The steps are explained in detail as follows:

[0065] a) Preparation of sterilized samples of Helichrysum stoekas

[0066] Remove a few leaves of Helichrysum stoekas and cut them into fragments of several millimeters. Sterilize the leaf fragments by immersing them in a continuous bath containing the following:

[0067] - A 70% ethanol mixture containing a detergent, such as Tween 80, to improve the sterilization effect for a period of 5 minutes, and then

[0068] - 1 mass% sodium hypochlorite solution for a period of 5 minutes.

[0069] Next, the sterilized leaf fragments are washed by immersing them in a sterilized distilled water bath three times in succession.

[0070] This step a) can also be performed using any other part of the plant (roots, stems, meristematic tissue, flowers, etc.). Sterilization can also be applied to seeds without the cutting step.

[0071] b) Callus formation

[0072] The sterilized leaf fragments obtained in the previous step are placed on a solid callus-forming medium (composition listed in Table 1) and then incubated in a constant temperature room at a temperature of 20°C or higher and 25°C or lower in a bright or dark place for a period of 3 weeks.

[0073] [Table 1]

[0074]

[0075] Composition of a callus-forming medium

[0076] a) Suspension of dedifferentiated cells

[0077] The callus formed during step b) is recovered and placed in a liquid suspension medium (composition shown in Table 2). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "callus" means a cluster of dedifferentiated cells.

[0078] Callus fragments in the suspension are cultured for a period of 7 to 21 days in a thermostatically controlled chamber at a temperature of 20°C or higher and 25°C or lower in a bright or dark place under orbital-type mechanical stirring of 25 rpm to 200 rpm (more specifically, a rotation speed of 100 rpm for an orbital diameter of 5 cm).

[0079] [Table 2]

[0080]

[0081] Composition of the callus suspension medium formed in step b).

[0082] b) Selection of fine suspensions

[0083] Take 1 / 5 to 1 / 3 of the volume of the culture containing dedifferentiated cells in a microsuspension obtained at the end of step c.

[0084] Place a volume of fine suspension in a large amount of new suspension medium that is three times the volume of the fine suspension.

[0085] These new suspensions are cultured for a period of 7 to 21 days in a thermostatically controlled chamber at a temperature of 20°C or higher and -25°C or lower in a bright place under orbital-type mechanical stirring at a rotational speed of 25 rpm to 200 rpm (more precisely, a rotational speed of 100 rpm for an orbital diameter of 5 cm) (the end of the culture period is determined by the observation of nutrient deficiency). For the purposes of the present invention, the term “nutrient deficiency” means the observation of a content of less than 5% of the amount of nutrients initially introduced into the culture medium.

[0086] a) Preparation of biomass including dedifferentiated cells and culture medium

[0087] Recover the large amount of microsuspension obtained during step d) and place it in a large amount of new suspension medium as described in Table 2, which is three times the volume of microsuspension recovered at the end of step d).

[0088] This new suspension is cultured for a period of 7 to 21 days in a thermostatically controlled chamber at a temperature between 20°C and 25°C in a light or dark place under orbital-type mechanical stirring at a rotational speed of 25 rpm to 200 rpm (more precisely, a rotational speed of 100 rpm for an orbital diameter of 5 cm) (the end of the culture period is determined by the observation of nutrient deficiency). This step may be performed in a conical flask with a maximum volume of 5 liters or less, and then in a bioreactor ("wave reactor," "stirred tank reactor," or conical flask type) with a volume exceeding 5 liters and not exceeding 1,000 liters (this list is not exhaustive).

[0089] b) High-pressure homogenization of culture: Preparation of culture lysate of dedifferentiated cells.

[0090] A fraction of the culture volume obtained at the end of step e) is taken and lysed using a high-pressure homogenizer, the pressure of which can be set to a value of 100 bar or more and 1,000 bar or less (preferably, for the present invention, a pressure such as 500 bar). Dedifferentiated cells present in the culture passing through the high-pressure homogenizer are lysed, and their contents are released into the culture medium. Homogenization efficiency (reflected by the observation of cell debris indicating the lysis of dedifferentiated cells) can be easily confirmed by microscopic observation of the suspension.

[0091] c) Stabilization of culture lysates of dedifferentiated cells

[0092] To stabilize the color of the culture lysate of dedifferentiated cells collected at the end of step f), acidification is achieved by adding an inorganic or organic acid to obtain a pH value of 4 or higher and 4.5 or lower. This lysate contains cell fragments that are insoluble in the medium, prone to settling, and considered an obstacle to the commercialization of the product. The addition of a thickener and / or gelling agent in a ratio of 0.1 mass% or higher and 2 mass% or lower (more preferably, in a mass ratio of 40 to 45% and 48 to 55%, and a mixture of xanthan gum and acacia gum in an amount of 0.8 mass%, e.g., a mixture of xanthan gum and acacia gum sold under the trade name Solagum™AX) enables obtaining a suspension that does not produce a precipitate over time.

[0093] Lysates of dedifferentiated cells can be stabilized from a microbiological and physicochemical perspective by various means:

[0094] ● By pasteurization (e.g., UHT pasteurization),

[0095] ● By adjusting the pH (e.g., acidifying to a pH below 5),

[0096] ● By adding agents to reduce the effectiveness of water (e.g., glycerol),

[0097] ● By the addition of preservatives (e.g., sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate).

[0098] In this case, it is desirable to stabilize the solution by adding a mixture of glycerol, potassium sorbate, and sodium benzoate.

[0099] The proportions of various components per 100 mass% are as follows:

[0100] ● HPH lysate of Helichrysum stoaecas dedifferentiated cell culture obtained in step f at 60 to 70 mass% (95 to 99.5 mass% water and 0.5 to 5 mass% solid)

[0101] ● 30 mass% to 40 mass% of glycerol

[0102] ● 0.1 mass% to 2 mass% of Solagum™ Ax (mixture of acacia gum and xanthan gum)

[0103] ● 0.1% to 2% potassium sorbate

[0104] ● 0.1% to 2% sodium benzoate.

[0105] The stabilized culture lysate of dedifferentiated cells can be stored or directly incorporated into a cosmetic formulation in an amount of 0.1 mass% to 3 mass% (preferably 1 mass%).

[0106] Any type of thickener can serve as a stabilizer, and for example, a polar solvent, preferably glycerol, is used in this case, but other polyols may also be used.

[0107] It should be noted that there are numerous differences between whole plants and dedifferentiated cells. To demonstrate these differences, a comparison was made. The comparison between whole plants and dedifferentiated cells was achieved by comparing ethanol-based extracts analyzed by high-pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC). Samples were analyzed on a Kinetex C18 150 x 4.6 mm HPLC column with a flow rate of 0.8 ml / min. The solvents were as follows:

[0108] - A: Isopropanol containing 0.05% TFA,

[0109] - B: Acetonitrile containing 0.05% TFA,

[0110] - C: Water containing 0.05% TFA.

[0111] The gradient is as follows:

[0112]

[0113] This analysis was performed using CAD (charged aerosol detection) type detection. The results are obtained from the chromatogram of the ethanol-based extract of the aerial portion of Helichrysum stoaecas using CAD detection according to the HPLC C18 screening method and the chromatogram of the ethanol-based extract of dedifferentiated cells of Helichrysum stoaecas using CAD detection according to the HPLC C18 screening method.

[0114] The obtained results clearly show the difference between the two chromatograms. The chromatogram of the cell extract is much richer in the region between 25 and 40 minutes of retention time, which corresponds to the elution time of the most nonpolar molecule.

[0115] The subject of the present invention is also a composition (C1) for topical use in the form of a gel, comprising the following per 100 mass% of the composition:

[0116] - 95 mass% to 99.5 mass%, preferably 97 mass% to 99.5 mass%, more preferably 97.5 mass% to 99.5 mass%, a melt (Ly) obtained by performing a process previously defined and preferably comprising steps a) to f) described above,

[0117] - 0.5 mass% to 5 mass%, preferably 0.5 mass% to 3 mass%, more preferably 0.5 mass% to 2.5 mass% of at least one thickening agent and / or gelling agent.

[0118] Preferably, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent is selected from polysaccharides, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, starch, and linear, branched, or cross-linked polymers of the polymer electrolyte type.

[0119] This composition (C1) may be administered topically to improve the moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips.

[0120] In the context of the present invention, the term “gel” refers to a chemical composition that is initially in a liquid form and transforms into a non-flowing structured state after the addition of a gelling and / or thickening agent. A defined gel is considered to be an intermediate state between a solid and a liquid and consists of a three-dimensional network within a liquid resulting from chemical or physical bonding.

[0121] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “gelling agent” means a chemical compound or a mixture of chemical compounds that transforms a liquid medium into a gel.

[0122] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening agent" means a chemical compound or a mixture of chemical compounds that increases the viscosity of the medium into which it is introduced.

[0123] The term “for topical use” used in the definition of the composition (C1) described above means that the composition is formulated to be applied to the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, or eyebrows, regardless of whether it is applied directly in the case of a cosmetic formulation, or indirectly in the case of a body care product in the form of a fabric or paper wipe, for example, or in the case of a hygiene product intended to come into contact with the skin, hair, scalp, nails, lips, mucous membranes, eyelashes, or eyebrows.

[0124] In the context of the present invention, the term "polysaccharide" refers to a polymer of sugars. The IUPAC definition of sugars refers to monosaccharides, compounds of monosaccharides themselves, and derivatives thereof obtained by the reduction of a carbonyl group, the oxidation of one or more hydroxyl functional groups, or the substitution of a hydroxyl functional group having one or more hydrogen atoms, an amine group, a phosphate functional group, or a sulfate functional group. Polysaccharides most commonly used to manufacture industrial food, cosmetic, or pharmaceutical compositions usually consist of monosaccharides, such as glucose, galactose, mannose, or monosaccharide derivatives in which the hydroxyl functional group of the terminal carbon has been oxidized to a carboxyl functional group. Polysaccharides can be distinguished into two distinct groups: polysaccharides (or poly-monosaccharides) composed solely of monosaccharides, and polysaccharides composed of polysaccharide derivatives.

[0125] According to a specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is selected from polysaccharides (or poly-monosaccharides) composed only of monosaccharides.

[0126] Among polysaccharides composed solely of monosaccharides, a distinction can be made between glucan, glucomanoglycan, and xyloglycan, which are glucose homopolymers that are very abundant in nature, and galactomannan, which is a polymer composed of D-mannose units whose main chains are linked together by β-1,4 bonds and in which D-galactose units are laterally grafted by α-1,6 bonds.

[0127] Galactomannan is present in several plant species, more particularly in legumes, and constitutes the oil of seeds. Depending on their plant origin, the degree of substitution (DS) of the D-galactose unit on the D-mannose main chain of galactomannan ranges from 0 to 1:

[0128] - Galactomannan derived from cassia gum has a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1 / 5, meaning lateral grafting of one D-galactose unit per five D-mannose units present on the main chain of the polysaccharide;

[0129] - Galactomannan derived from locust bean gum has a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1 / 4, meaning lateral grafting of one D-galactose unit per four D-mannose units present on the main chain of the polysaccharide;

[0130] - Galactomannan derived from tara gum has a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1 / 3, meaning lateral grafting of one D-galactose unit per three D-mannose units present on the main chain of the polysaccharide;

[0131] - Galactomannan derived from guar gum has a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1 / 2, meaning lateral grafting of one D-galactose unit per two D-mannose units present on the main chain of the polysaccharide;

[0132] Galactomannan derived from fenugreek gum has a degree of substitution (DS) of approximately 1 / 1, meaning lateral grafting of one D-galactose unit per one D-mannose unit present on the main chain of the polysaccharide.

[0133] According to a more specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is selected from polysaccharides (or poly-monosaccharides) composed solely of monosaccharides included in the group consisting of galactomannan derived from tarra gum, galactomannan derived from guar gum, and galactomannan derived from locust bean gum.

[0134] According to another specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is selected from polysaccharides composed of monosaccharide derivatives. Among polysaccharides composed of monosaccharide derivatives, the following may be distinguished:

[0135] - Sulfated galactan, a polymer of galactose capable of having a pendant sulfate-ester group, particularly found in algal polysaccharides such as carrageenan and agar;

[0136] - Uronans, polymers of uronic acids such as algin and pectin;

[0137] - Heteropolymers of monosaccharides and uronic acids: These polymers in complex compositions are often found particularly in sap exudates (e.g., acacia gum exudates and karaya gum exudates), but are also produced by microorganisms, e.g., xanthan gum and gellan gum;

[0138] - Glucosaminoglycans, which are polysaccharides formed from glucose by replacing the C-2 hydroxyl group of glucose with an amine (referred to as 2-amino-2-deoxy-D-glucose or more simply glucosamine). Additionally, the amine functional group can be acetylated. Among this class of hydrocolloids, there is chitosan formed only of glucosamine units and hyaluronan, whose repeating units are dimers of glucosamine and glucuronic acid.

[0139] Xanthan gum (G X ) has become the most widely used microbial polysaccharide in the industry over the past few decades. Xanthan is a polysaccharide synthesized by bacteria of the genus Xanthomonas, and is commercially produced only by species X. Campestris ( X. campestris ) is used. (G X The main chain of ) is identical to the main chain of cellulose, that is, it is formed from β-D-glucose units linked together via carbons 1 and 4. One branched trisaccharide is present per two glucose units in the main chain in a regular alternating manner; each branch is of type: β-D-Man p -(1 → 4)-β-D-GlcA p -(1 → 2)-α-D-Man p -(1 → 3)(Literature[I. Capron et al. , " About the native and renaturated conformation of xanthan exopolysaccharide It consists of a trisaccharide composed of two mannoses and one glucuronic acid. Xanthan gum (G X ) is available in the form of sodium, potassium, or calcium salts.

[0140] Acacia gum is a complex, branched polysaccharide composed of β-D-galactose units linked together via carbons 1 and 3 in the main chain. The chains branched from the main chain consist of β-D-galactose units linked together via carbons 1 and 6, and also contain α-arabinose units and, to a lesser extent, β-glucoronosyl units. Both the main chain and the pendant chain contain α-L-arabinosyl, α-L-rhamnopyranosyl, β-D-glucuronopyranosyl, and 4-O-methyl-β-D-glucuronopyranosyl units.

[0141] According to a more specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is a polysaccharide composed of a monosaccharide derivative selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, agar, algin, pectin, acacia gum exudate, karaya gum exudate, xanthan gum, gellan gum, chitosan, and hyaluronan, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0142] According to a more specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is a polysaccharide composed of a monosaccharide derivative selected from the group consisting of acacia gum exudate, karaya gum exudate, and xanthan gum, and / or mixtures thereof.

[0143] According to a more specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is an acacia gum exudate, xanthan gum, and / or, in particular, at least 1 / 3 and no more than 1 / 3 xanthan gum (G sold by the company SEPPIC under the trade name Solagum™ AX). X ) and acacia gum exudate (G A Xanthan gum (G) used in the mass ratio between ) X ) and acacia gum exudate (G A It is a polysaccharide composed of monosaccharide derivatives selected from the components of the group consisting of a mixture of ).

[0144] According to a specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is selected from cellulose and cellulose derivatives.

[0145] In the context of the present invention, the term "cellulose" refers to a polysaccharide composed of linear chains of D-glucose molecules, the average molecular mass of which is at least 10,000 g·mol -1 , more particularly at least 15,000 g.mol -1 , more particularly at least 17,000 g.mol -1 , even more especially at least 20,000 g.mol -1 , even more especially at least 25,000 g.mol -1 am.

[0146] According to a more specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is selected from cellulose derivatives.

[0147] In the context of the present invention, the term “cellulose derivative” refers to a component of the group consisting of hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, sodium salt of carboxymethyl cellulose, and cellulose dihydroxypropyl ether.

[0148] In the context of the present invention, the term “starch” refers to a mixture of amylose and amylopectin, and more particularly to a component of the group consisting of corn starch, wheat starch, potato starch, and cassava starch.

[0149] According to a particular embodiment, the term “linear, branched, or cross-linked polymer of the polymer electrolyte type” for the purposes of the present invention refers to the following:

[0150] - Cross-linked synthetic anionic copolymers based on methacrylic acid or acrylic acid, or esters of methacrylic acid or esters of acrylic acid, prepared by direct emulsion polymerization (which are optionally hydrophobically modified). These synthetic anionic copolymers are known to those skilled in the art by the designations "alkaline swelling emulsion" (or "ASE") and "hydrophobic alkaline swelling emulsion" (or "HASE"), respectively. A thickener of the HASE type is described in the international patent application published under no. WO 02 / 34793 A2;

[0151] - A cross-linked or branched synthetic anionic polymer electrolyte that is a cross-linked and / or branched homopolymer or copolymer of a water-soluble unsaturated monomer, e.g., acrylic acid and / or its derivative, methacrylic acid and / or its derivative, acrylamide and / or its derivative, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or its salt, N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl alcohol and / or its derivative. This cross-linked or branched synthetic anionic polymer electrolyte is in the form of a reverse lattice obtained by reverse emulsion radical polymerization, or in the form of a powder obtained by precipitation polymerization or atomization of the reverse lattice.

[0152] According to a specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is selected from a linear, branched, or cross-linked polymer electrolyte obtained from the radical polymerization of at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of acrylic acid and / or its sodium salt, methacrylic acid and / or its sodium salt, 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, acrylamide, N,N-dimethylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or its sodium or potassium salt, N-vinylpyrrolidone, and at least one monomer of Formula I:

[0153] [Chemical Formula I]

[0154]

[0155] In the above formula, R represents a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and n represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 20. The radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of a crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of polyethylene monomers comprising at least two ethylene-based functional groups, more particularly ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraallyloxyethane, ethylene glycol diacrylate, diallylurea, trialylamine, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, and methylenebis(acrylamide), or mixtures of these compounds.

[0156] According to a specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is selected from the components of the group consisting of the following:

[0157] - A partially or wholly salified acrylic acid homopolymer cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide),

[0158] - A homopolymer of the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide),

[0159] - A copolymer of partially or wholly chlorided acrylic acid and the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide),

[0160] - A copolymer of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide),

[0161] - A copolymer of acrylamide and the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide),

[0162] - A partially or wholly chlorided acrylic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), and a terpolymer of acrylamide, the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid,

[0163] - A partially or wholly chlorided acrylic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), and a terpolymer of the sodium salt of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid,

[0164] - A terpolymer cross-linked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or trialylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate in a molar ratio of 0.5% or more and 5% or less, N,N-dimethylacrylamide in a molar ratio of 15% or more and 39.5% or less, and 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely chlorided in the form of a sodium or ammonium salt in a molar ratio of 60% or more and 80% or less,

[0165] - A quaternary polymer cross-linked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or trialylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid partially or completely chlorided in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar ratio of 0.5% to 2.5% and 15% to 39%, and 60% to 80% molar ratio.

[0166] According to a more specific embodiment, the gelling agent and / or thickening agent present in the aqueous composition (C1) of the present invention is xanthan gum, acacia gum exudate, and acacia gum exudate of 1 / 3 or more and 1 / 3 or less (G A Xanthan gum (G) regarding ) X Xanthan gum (G) with a mass ratio of ) X ) and acacia gum exudate (G A A mixture of, a copolymer of 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate and the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), a copolymer of acrylamide and the sodium salt of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid cross-linked with trialylamine and / or trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or methylenebis(acrylamide), and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate in a molar ratio of 0.5% or more and 5% or less, N,N-dimethylacrylamide in a molar ratio of 15% or more and 39.5% or less, and partially or completely chlorided in the form of a sodium salt or ammonium salt in a molar ratio of 60% or more and 80% or less A terpolymer of 2-methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid, cross-linked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate and / or trialylamine and / or methylenebis(acrylamide).

[0167] The previously defined composition (C1) for topical use may include one or more auxiliary compounds selected from solvents and co-solvents, or formulations for improving skin penetration.

[0168] The subject of the present invention is also a composition (C'1) for topical use in the form of a gel, comprising the following per 100 mass% of the composition:

[0169] - 50 mass% to 80 mass%, preferably 50 mass% to 75 mass%, more preferably 60 mass% to 70 mass% of the previously defined melt (Ly),

[0170] - 0.1 mass% to 5 mass%, preferably 0.5 mass% to 3 mass% of at least one thickening agent and / or gelling agent, and

[0171] - At least one solvent in an amount of 15 mass% to 49.9 mass%, preferably 22 mass% to 49.5 mass%, more preferably 27 mass% to 39.5 mass%.

[0172] Preferably, the solvent is selected from the components of the group consisting of the following:

[0173] - Compounds of chemical formula Ia:

[0174] [Chemical Formula Ia]

[0175] HO-[CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O] n -H

[0176] In the above formula, n represents an integer such as 1 or greater and 15 or less, more particularly 1 or greater and 10 or less, more particularly 1 or greater and 6 or less, more particularly 1 or greater and 4 or less, more particularly 1, or 2, or 3, or 4;

[0177] - Compounds of chemical formula Ib:

[0178] [Chemical Formula Ib]

[0179] Ra1-C(Rb1)(OH)-C(OH)(Rc1)(Rd1)

[0180] In the above formula, radicals Ra1, Rb1, Rc1, and Rd1 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, or a saturated aliphatic radical containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or the chemical formula Ib1:

[0181] [Chemical Formula Ib1]

[0182] Ra1-C(Rb1)(OH)-[C(Re1)(Rf1)]tC(OH)(Rc1)(Rd1)

[0183] In the above formula, t is equal to 1, 2, or 3, and each of the radicals Ra1, Rb1, Rc1, Rd1, Re1, and Rf1 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated aliphatic radical containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and it is understood that at least one of the radicals Ra1 or Rb1 and / or at least one of the radicals Rc1 or Rd1 does not represent a hydrogen atom.

[0184] More preferably, the solvent will be glycerol.

[0185] This composition (C'1) may be administered topically to improve moisture of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips.

[0186] The previously defined compositions for topical use (C1) and (C'1) may include one or more co-solvents and agents for improving skin penetration.

[0187] Examples of cosolvents that may be present in the compositions (C1) and (C'1) for local use that are the subject of the present invention may include water, organic solvents, e.g., glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomer, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols, e.g., ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, a mixture of water and said organic solvent, propylene carbonate, ethyl acetate, and benzyl alcohol.

[0188] Examples of formulations for improving skin penetration that may be present in the compositions (C1) and (C'1) for topical use that are the subject of the present invention include: glycol ethers, e.g., ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monoisopropyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether, ethylene glycol monobenzyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol mono(n-butyl) ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether (or Transcutol-P), fatty acids, e.g., oleic acid, fatty acid esters of glycerol, e.g., glyceryl behenate, glyceryl palmitate / stearate, or behenoyl macroglycerides, polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl ether, Terpenes, for example, D-limonene, or essential oils, for example, eucalyptus essential oil may be mentioned.

[0189] The subject of the present invention is also a composition (C2) for local use in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion or an oil-in-water type emulsion comprising a dissolved product (Ly) obtained by performing a process including steps a) to f) as previously defined and preferably described above.

[0190] Oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, in which the continuous phase consists of a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase, and the dispersed phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase, and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, in which the continuous phase consists of a lipophilic fatty phase and the dispersed phase consists of a hydrophilic phase, generally an aqueous phase, are distinguished.

[0191] This composition (C2) may also be administered topically to improve moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips.

[0192] The composition (C2) may be administered topically to alleviate and / or eliminate and / or prevent cracking and / or dry ringworm and / or tearing of the skin or mucous membranes accompanied by conditions of the skin and / or mucous membranes such as eczema and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dryness.

[0193] Among water-in-oil type emulsions, a specific object of the present invention is a composition (F) for topical use in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising the following per 100% mass of the composition:

[0194] - A composition (C1) or (C'1) for local use defined in any one of claims 3 to 9, in an amount of 60 to 90 mass%,

[0195] - 10 mass% to 40 mass% of fatty phase (A2), comprising an emulsification system comprising i) at least one oil and optionally at least one wax, and ii) at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1).

[0196] Preferably, the emulsifying surfactant (S1) will be selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglycoside compositions, compositions of alkyl polyglycosides and fatty alcohols, polyglycerol esters, alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, polyglycol polyhydroxystearates, polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, and alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates.

[0197] In the formulation (F) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, the term “oil” refers to an insoluble compound and / or a mixture of compounds that is liquid at 25°C, more particularly as follows:

[0198] - Linear alkanes containing 11 to 19 carbon atoms;

[0199] - Branched alkanes containing 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane, or isoeicosan, or mixtures of some of these, such as those mentioned below and identified by their INCI names: C 7-8 Isoparaffin, C 8-9 Isoparaffin, C 9-11 Isoparaffin, C 9-12 Isoparaffin, C 9-13 Isoparaffin, C 9-14 Isoparaffin, C 9-16 Isoparaffin, C 10-11 Isoparaffin, C 10-12 Isoparaffin, C 10-13 Isoparaffin, C 11-12 Isoparaffin, C 11-13 Isoparaffin, C 11-14 Isoparaffin, C 12-14 Isoparaffin, C 12-20 Isoparaffin, C 13-14 Isoparaffin, C 13-16 Isoparaffin;

[0200] - Cycloalkanes optionally substituted with one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals;

[0201] - White mineral oils, e.g., products sold under the following names: Marcol™ 52, Marcol™ 82, Drakeol™ 6VR, Eolane™ 130, Eolane™ 150;

[0202] - Hemisqualane (or 2,6,10-trimethyldodecane; CAS No.: 3891-98-3), squalane (or 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosan), hydrogenated polyisobutene, or hydrogenated polydecene;

[0203] - A mixture of alkanes comprising 15 to 19 carbon atoms (the alkanes are linear alkanes, branched alkanes, and cycloalkanes) and, more particularly, a mixture (M1) comprising a mass ratio of 90% or more and 100% or less of branched alkanes per 100% of the mass of the mixture; a mass ratio of 0% or more and 9% or less and, more particularly less than 5% of linear alkanes; and a weight ratio of 0% or more and 1% or less of cycloalkanes, for example, a mixture sold under the designation Emogreen™ L15 or Emogreen™ L19;

[0204] - Fatty alcohol ether of chemical formula II:

[0205] [Chemical Formula II]

[0206] Z1-O-Z2

[0207] In the above formula, Z1 and Z2 may be the same or different and represent a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 5 to 18 carbon atoms, e.g., dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethylbutyl)hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethylbutyl) ether, or dihexyl ether;

[0208] - Monoesters of fatty acids and alcohols of chemical formula III:

[0209] [Chemical Formula III]

[0210] R'1-(C=O)-O-R'2

[0211] In the above formula, R'1-(C=O) represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl radical containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and R'2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain containing 1 to 24 carbon atoms independently of R'1, e.g., methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, octyl myristate, methyl Palmitate, Ethyl Palmitate, Propyl Palmitate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Butyl Palmitate, 2-Butyl Palmitate, Hexyl Palmitate, Octyl Palmitate, Methyl Oleate, Ethyl Oleate, Propyl Oleate, Isopropyl Oleate, Butyl Oleate, 2-Butyl Oleate, Hexyl Oleate, Octyl Oleate, Methyl Stearate, Ethyl Stearate, Propyl Stearate, Isopropyl Stearate, Butyl Stearate, 2-Butyl Stearate, Hexyl Stearate, Octyl Stearate, Methyl Isostearate, Ethyl Isostearate, Propyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Butyl Isostearate, 2-Butyl Isostearate, Hexyl Isostearate, Isostearyl Shows isostearate;

[0212] - Diesters of fatty acids and glycerol of formulas IV and V:

[0213] [Chemical Formula IV]

[0214] R'3-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O-(C=O)-R'4

[0215] [Chemical Formula V]

[0216] R'5-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R'6]-CH2-OH

[0217] In formulas VI and VII, R'3-(C=O), R'4-(C=O), R'5-(C=O) and R'6-(C=O) may be the same or different and represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0218] - Triester of fatty acid and glycerol of chemical formula VI:

[0219] [Chemical Formula VI]

[0220] R'7-(C=O)-O-CH2-CH[O-(C=O)-R"8]-CH2-O-(C=O)-R"9

[0221] In the above formula, R'7-(C=O), R'8-(C=O) and R'9-(C=O) may be the same or different and represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl group comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0222] - Vegetable oils, e.g., vegetable squalane, sweet almond oil, coconut seed oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, canola oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, malt oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, beauty-leaf oil, Sicymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables;

[0223] - Ethoxylated vegetable oil.

[0224] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil selected from the group consisting of castor oil, liquid paraffin, cocoyl caprate / caprylate, isopropyl myristate, and capric / caprylic triglycerides.

[0225] The fatty phase (A2) optionally contains wax. In the formulation (F) for topical use that is the subject of the present invention, the term “wax” refers to an insoluble compound that is solid at 35°C and a mixture of compounds.

[0226] These waxes are selected more particularly from beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oricuri wax, wood wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax; hemp wax; polyethylene wax; silicone wax; vegetable wax; fatty alcohols and fatty acids that are solid at room temperature; and glycerides that are solid at room temperature.

[0227] In the definition of the formulation (F) of the present invention, the term "alkyl polyglycoside composition" refers to the composition (A) represented by the formula VII:

[0228] [Chemical Formula VII]

[0229] R1-O-(G) x -H

[0230] In the above formula, x represents a decimal number from 1.05 to 5, G represents a reducing sugar residue, and R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon radical comprising 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, and the composition (A) consists of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas VII1, VII2, VII3, VII4, and VII5:

[0231] [Chemical Formula VII1]

[0232] R1-O-(G)1-H

[0233] [Chemical Formula VII2]

[0234] R1-O-(G)2-H

[0235] [Chemical Formula VII3]

[0236] R1-O-(G)3-H

[0237] [Chemical Formula VII4]

[0238] R1-O-(G)4-H

[0239] [Chemical Formula VII5]

[0240] R1-O-(G)5-H

[0241] In the respective molar ratios a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5,

[0242] - The sum of a1+ a2+ a3+ a4+ a5 is equal to 1, and

[0243] - Make the sum of a1 + 2a2 + 3a3 + 4a4 + 5a5 equal to x.

[0244] The term "saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon radical comprising 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups" indicates the following for radical R1 of Formula VII defined above:

[0245] - Saturated linear alkyl radicals, e.g., n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-nonadecyl, n-eicosyl, and n-docosyl radicals;

[0246] - Unsaturated linear radicals, e.g., dodecenyl, tridecenyl, tetradecenyl, pentadecenyl, hexadecenyl, heptadecenyl, octadecenyl, nonadecenyl, eicosenyl, docosenyl, 4-dodecenyl, and 5-dodecenyl radicals;

[0247] - Saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic radicals comprising 12 to 36 carbon atoms substituted with one or two hydroxyl groups, e.g., hydroxydodecyl, hydroxytetradecyl, hydroxyhexadecyl, hydroxyoctadecyl, hydroxyeicosyl, and hydroxydocosyl radicals, e.g., 12-hydroxyoctadecyl radical;

[0248] - Radical derived from an isoalkanol of Chemical Formula 1:

[0249] [Chemical Formula 1]

[0250] (CH3)(CH3)CH-(CH2) r -CH2-OH

[0251] (In the above formula, r represents an integer between 8 and 20), e.g., isodecyl, isoundecyl, isododecyl, isotridecyl, isotetradecyl, isopentadecyl, isohexadecyl, isopentadecyl, isooctadecyl, isononadecyl, isoeicosyl, or isodocosyl radical;

[0252] - Branched alkyl radical derived from Guerbet alcohol of Chemical Formula 2:

[0253] [Chemical Formula 2]

[0254] CH(C s H 2s+1 )(C t H 2t+1 )-CH2-OH

[0255] (In the above formula, t is an integer from 6 to 18, s is an integer from 4 to 18, and the sum of s + t is 10 or more and 22 or less), e.g., 2-butyloctyl, 2-butyldecyl, 2-hexyloctyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, 2-decyltetradecyl, 2-dodecylhexadecyl, or 2-tetradecyloctadecyl radical.

[0256] According to a specific embodiment, in the definition of Formula VII defined above, R1 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon radical comprising 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0257] In the definition of Formula VII defined above, the term "reducing sugar" refers to a sugar derivative that does not have any established glycosidic bond in its structure between the anomeric carbon and the oxygen of the acetal group as defined in the reference publication ["Biochemistry", Daniel Voet / Judith G. Voet, page 250, John Wiley & Sons, 1990]. Oligomer structure (G) x It may exist in any isomer form, regardless of whether it is an optical isomer, geometric isomer, or positional isomer; it may also represent a mixture of isomers.

[0258] In the formula VII defined above, the group R1-O- is connected to G through the anomeric carbon of the sugar residue to form an acetal functional group.

[0259] According to a specific embodiment, in the definition of Formula VII defined above, G represents a reducing sugar residue selected from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idos, goulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lixose, allose, altrose, dextran, and talose; more particularly, G represents a reducing sugar residue selected from glucose, xylose, and arabinose residues.

[0260] According to a more specific embodiment, in the definition of Formula VII, x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and more particularly greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.

[0261] According to a more specific embodiment, in the definition of the formula VII defined above, R1 represents a radical selected from at least one component of the group consisting of n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl radicals; G represents a reducing sugar residue selected from glucose and xylose residues, and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

[0262] According to a more specific embodiment, the previously defined formulation (F) is characterized in that the emulsifying system consists of an alkyl polyglycoside composition (A) represented by the formula VII:

[0263] [Chemical Formula VII]

[0264] R1-O-(G) x -H

[0265] In the above formula, x represents a decimal number from 1.05 to 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, and the composition (C2) consists of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas VII1, VII2, VII3, VII4, and VII5:

[0266] [Chemical Formula VII1]

[0267] R1-O-(G)1-H

[0268] [Chemical Formula VII2]

[0269] R1-O-(G)2-H

[0270] [Chemical Formula VII3]

[0271] R1-O-(G)3-H

[0272] [Chemical Formula VII4]

[0273] R1-O-(G)4-H

[0274] [Chemical Formula VII5]

[0275] R1-O-(G)5-H

[0276] In the respective molar ratios a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5,

[0277] - The sum of a1+ a2+ a3+ a4+ a5 is equal to 1, and

[0278] - Make the sum of a1 + 2a2 + 3a3 + 4a4 + 5a5 equal to x.

[0279] In the definition of the composition (F) that is the subject of the present invention, the term "alkyl polyglycoside and fatty alcohol composition" refers to composition (B), which comprises the following per 100% by mass thereof:

[0280] - At least one composition (A) represented by the previously defined formula VII in an amount of 10 to 50 mass%, more particularly 15 to 40 mass%, and even more particularly 20 to 30 mass%,

[0281] - At least one fatty alcohol of Formula VIII in an amount of 90 mass% to 50 mass%, more particularly 85 mass% to 60 mass%, and even more particularly 80 mass% to 70 mass%:

[0282] [Chemical Formula VIII]

[0283] - R'1-OH

[0284] In the above formula, R'1 may be the same as or different from R1 and represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon radical comprising 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.

[0285] According to a specific embodiment, in the definition of Formula VII representing composition (A) contained in composition (B), R1 represents a radical selected from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl radicals, G represents a reducing sugar residue selected from glucose and xylose residues, and x represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

[0286] According to a more specific embodiment, in the definition of formula VII representing composition (A) contained in composition (B), R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, G represents a xylose residue, and x represents a fraction greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5.

[0287] According to a more specific embodiment, in the definition of the fatty alcohol of the formula VIII defined above, R'1 represents a radical selected from n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-eicosyl, n-docosyl, 2-hexyldecyl, 2-octyldecyl, 2-hexyldodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl, and 2-decyltetradecyl radicals, and R'1 represents most particularly the 2-octyldodecyl radical.

[0288] According to a more specific embodiment, the subject of the present invention is a previously defined formulation (F) characterized in that the emulsifying system comprises a composition (B), wherein the composition (B) comprises the following per 100% by mass thereof:

[0289] - At least one alkyl polyglycoside composition represented by Formula VII in an amount of 10 to 50 mass% (A):

[0290] [Chemical Formula VII]

[0291] R1-O-(G) x -H

[0292] In the above formula, x represents a decimal number from 1.05 to 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, and the composition consists of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas VII1, VII2, VII3, VII4, and VII5:

[0293] [Chemical Formula VII1]

[0294] R1-O-(G)1-H

[0295] [Chemical Formula VII2]

[0296] R1-O-(G)2-H

[0297] [Chemical Formula VII3]

[0298] R1-O-(G)3-H

[0299] [Chemical Formula VII4]

[0300] R1-O-(G)4-H

[0301] [Chemical Formula VII5]

[0302] R1-O-(G)5-H

[0303] In the respective molar ratios a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5,

[0304] - The sum of a1+ a2+ a3+ a4+ a5 is equal to 1, and

[0305] - Make the sum of a1 + 2a2 + 3a3 + 4a4 + 5a5 equal to x; and

[0306] - At least one fatty alcohol of Formula VIII in an amount of 90 mass% to 50 mass%:

[0307] [Chemical Formula VIII]

[0308] R'1-OH

[0309] In the above formula, R'1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical.

[0310] In the definition of the formulation (F) of the present invention, the term "polyglycerol ester" refers to a compound of formula IX:

[0311] [Chemical Formula IX]

[0312]

[0313] In the above formula, Z represents an acyl radical of the formula R2-C(=O)- (where R2 is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon radical containing 11 to 35 carbon atoms), and more particularly a radical selected from dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, eicosanoyl, docosanoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenoyl, and isostearyl radicals, Z' represents an acyl radical of the formula R2-C(=O)- defined above (where Z' may be the same or different from Z), or a hydrogen atom, and y represents an integer greater than or equal to 20.

[0314] According to a more specific embodiment, the compound of formula IX is selected from the group consisting of decaglyceryl oleate, decaglyceryl isostearate, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monolinoleate, and decaglyceryl monomyristate.

[0315] In the definition of the formulation (F) of the present invention, the term "alkoxylated polyglycerol ester" refers to a compound of formula X:

[0316] [Chemical Formula X]

[0317]

[0318] In the above formula, Z1 represents an acyl radical of the formula R'2-C(=O)- (where R'2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon radical comprising 11 to 35 carbon atoms), and more particularly a radical selected from dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, eicosanoyl, docosanoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenoyl, and isostearyl radicals; Z1' represents an acyl radical of the formula R'2-C(=O)- defined above (where Z1' may be the same as or different from Z1), or a hydrogen atom; R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical; y1 represents an integer greater than or equal to 20 and less than or equal to 20; and v1, v2, and v3 may be the same or different. There are integers greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 50, and the sum of [(y1.v1) + (y1.v2) + v3)] is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50.

[0319] In the definition of the composition (F) of the present invention, the term "polyglycol polyhydroxystearate" refers to a compound of the formula XI:

[0320] [Chemical Formula XI]

[0321]

[0322] In the above formula, y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a radical of formula XII:

[0323] [Chemical Formula XII]

[0324]

[0325] In the above formula, y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z'2 represents a radical of the formula XII defined above (wherein Z2' may be the same as or different from Z2), or a hydrogen atom.

[0326] In the definition of the formulation (F) of the present invention, the term "polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate" refers to a compound of formula XIII:

[0327] [Chemical Formula XIII]

[0328]

[0329] In the above formula, Z3 represents a radical of the formula XII defined above, Z'3 represents a radical of the formula XII defined above (wherein Z3' may be the same or different from Z3), or a hydrogen atom, and y3 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20.

[0330] In the definition of the formulation (F) of the present invention, the term "alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate" refers to a compound of formula XIV:

[0331] [Chemical Formula XIV]

[0332]

[0333] In the above formula, Z4 represents a radical of the formula XII defined above, Z'4 represents a radical of the formula XII defined above (wherein Z4' is the same as or different from Z4), or a hydrogen atom, y4 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20, v'1, v'2 and v'3 may be the same or different and represent integers greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 50, and the sum of [(y4. v'1) + (y4. v'2) + v'3)] is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50.

[0334] According to another specific embodiment, the subject of the present invention is a previously defined formulation (F) characterized in that the emulsifying system (S) comprises a composition (D), wherein the composition (D) comprises the following per 100% by mass thereof:

[0335] At least one composition (A) represented by Formula VII in an amount of 15 mass% to 25 mass%:

[0336] [Chemical Formula VII]

[0337] R1-O-(G) x -H

[0338] In the above formula, x represents a decimal number from 1.05 to 2.5, G represents a xylose residue, and R1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical, and the composition (A) consists of a mixture of compounds represented by the chemical formulas VII1, VII2, VII3, VII4, and VII5:

[0339] [Chemical Formula VII1]

[0340] R1-O-(G)1-H

[0341] [Chemical Formula VII2]

[0342] R1-O-(G)2-H

[0343] [Chemical Formula VII3]

[0344] R1-O-(G)3-H

[0345] [Chemical Formula VII4]

[0346] R1-O-(G)4-H

[0347] [Chemical Formula VII5]

[0348] R1-O-(G)5-H

[0349] In the respective molar ratios a1, a2, a3, a4, and a5,

[0350] - The sum of a1+ a2+ a3+ a4+ a5 is equal to 1, and

[0351] - Make the sum of a1 + 2a2 + 3a3 + 4a4 + 5a5 equal to x;

[0352] At least one fatty alcohol of Formula VIII in an amount of 55 mass% to 65 mass%:

[0353] [Chemical Formula VIII]

[0354] R'1-OH

[0355] In the above formula, R'1 represents a 2-octyldodecyl radical;

[0356] At least one polyglycol polyhydroxystearate represented by the formula XI in an amount of 10 to 30 mass%:

[0357] [Chemical Formula XI]

[0358]

[0359] In the above formula, y2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 50, R4 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical, or an ethyl radical, and Z2 represents a radical of formula XII:

[0360] [Chemical Formula XII]

[0361]

[0362] In the above formula, y'2 represents an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 10, more particularly greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 10, and Z'2 represents a radical of the formula XII defined above (wherein Z2' is the same as or different from Z2), or a hydrogen atom.

[0363] According to another specific embodiment, the subject of the present invention is a previously defined formulation (F) characterized in that the dynamic viscosity of the formulation (F), measured at a temperature of 25°C using a Brookfield LVT viscometer at a speed of 6 rpm, is 500 mPa·s or more and 40,000 mPa·s or less.

[0364] The subject of the present invention is also a composition (F') for topical use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising the following per 100 mass% of the composition:

[0365] - 50 mass% to 90 mass%, preferably 60 mass% to 90 mass%, and more preferably 70 mass% to 90 mass% of an aqueous phase (A1) acceptable for cosmetic use, said aqueous phase (A1) comprises 0.5 mass% to 10 mass% of a previously defined soluble (Ly) per 100 mass% of itself,

[0366] - 10 mass% to 50 mass%, preferably 10 mass% to 40 mass%, and more preferably 10 mass% to 30 mass% of a fat phase (G1), the fat phase (G1) comprises the following per 100 mass% of itself:

[0367] ● 0.5 mass% to 20 mass%, preferably 1 mass% to 15 mass%, of at least one oil-in-water type surfactant (S'1);

[0368] ● At least one oil and / or one wax in an amount of 80 mass% to 99.5 mass%.

[0369] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oil” present in the fatty phase (G1) of the composition (F’), which is in the form of an emulsion of the previously defined oil-in-water type, refers to a chemical substance or a mixture of chemical substances that is insoluble and has a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25°C.

[0370] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” present in the fatty phase (G1) of the composition (F’), which is in the form of an emulsion of the previously defined oil-in-water type, refers to a chemical substance or a mixture of chemical substances that is insoluble and has a solid appearance at a temperature of 45°C.

[0371] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oil-in-water type surfactant (S'1)” present in the fatty phase (G1) of the composition (F') which is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion previously defined represents a chemical substance or a mixture of chemical substances that stabilizes the droplets of the fatty phase (G1) when dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase (A1).

[0372] As a water-in-oil type surfactant (S'1) present in the fatty phase (G1) of a previously defined water-in-oil type emulsion (F'), for example, the following may be mentioned:

[0373] - Polysorbate obtained from an ethoxylation reaction between 1 molar equivalent of sorbitan ester and 5 to 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide, and more particularly between 1 molar equivalent of sorbitan laurate or sorbitan palmitate or sorbitan stearate or sorbitan isostearate or sorbitan oleate, and between 5 to 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide, more particularly between 5 or 10 or 12 or 15 or 20 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;

[0374] - A product obtained by an ethoxylation reaction between 1 molar equivalent of fatty acid, e.g., palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, or between oleic acid and 5 to 40 molar equivalents of ethylene oxide;

[0375] - A product obtained from an esterification reaction between fatty acids, e.g., palmitic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, arachidic acid, or behenic acid, and between 4 to 20 molar equivalents, more particularly between 3 to 10 molar equivalents of glycerol.

[0376] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fat phase (G1)” means a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances that is insoluble in water and / or a mixture of water and a polar solvent. Such “fat phase” may include previously defined oils and / or waxes.

[0377] Among the components of the fatty phase (G1) present in the formulation (F'), the constituent oils and silicone oils of the fatty phase (A2) described above for the preparation of the formulation (F), such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, silicone modified with amine, silicone modified with fatty acid, silicone modified with alcohol, silicone modified with alcohol and fatty acid, silicone modified with polyether groups, modified epoxy silicone, silicone modified with fluoride groups, cyclic silicone, and silicone modified with alkyl groups may be mentioned.

[0378] Among the components of the fatty phase (G1) present in the formulation (F'), a constituent wax of the fatty phase (A2) as described above may be mentioned for the manufacture of the formulation (F).

[0379] According to a specific embodiment, in the formulation (F') of the present invention, the fatty phase (G1) also comprises at least one agent for protection against solar ultraviolet rays in an amount of 5 to 30 mass%, more particularly 5 to 25 mass%, and even more particularly 10 to 25 mass% per 100 mass% of itself.

[0380] "Formulations for protection against solar ultraviolet rays" specifically refer to pigments, organic ultraviolet blockers, and inorganic ultraviolet blockers in the definition of a composition (F') for topical use, which is in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion that is the subject of the present invention.

[0381] As pigments used as agents for protection against solar ultraviolet rays, there are, for example, white or colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium dioxide, brown iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, or red iron oxide, or other titanium mica.

[0382] Organic sunscreens used as formulations for protection against solar ultraviolet rays include, for example, the following:

[0383] - Those of the class of benzoic acid derivatives, e.g., para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), in particular monoglyceryl esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA;

[0384] - Anthranilic acid derivatives, e.g., homomentyl-N-acetyl anthranilate;

[0385] - Those of the class of salicylic acid derivatives, e.g., amyl salicylate, homomentyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanolphenyl salicylate;

[0386] - Those of the class of cinnamic acid derivatives, e.g., ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl 4-isopropylcinnamate, methyl 2,5-diisopropylcinnamate, propyl p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, octyl p-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate), 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate, cyclohexyl p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, or mono(2-ethylhexanoyl)glyceryl di(para-methoxycinnamate);

[0387] - Those of the class of benzophenone derivatives, e.g., 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy-4-n-octyloxybenzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor, 3-(benzylidene)-D,L-camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate;

[0388] - Sulfonic acid derivatives, e.g., 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and salts thereof; A class of triazine derivatives, e.g., hydroxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyloxyhydroxyphenyl-4-methoxyphenyltriazine, benzoic acid-2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 4,4-((6-(((1,1-dimethylethyl)amino)carbonyl)phenyl)amino)-1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyldiimino)bis(2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-t-octylphenyl)benzotriazole, 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl)benzotriazole; dibenzazine; Dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4''-t-butylbenzoylmethane; 5-(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornelidene)-3-pentan-2-one; 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, 2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxomidazolidine propionate, a class of diphenyl acrylate derivatives, e.g., 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate;

[0389] - Polysiloxanes, for example, benzylidene siloxane malonate.

[0390] Inorganic sunscreens used as formulations for protection against solar ultraviolet rays include, for example, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red, or black iron oxide, and chromium oxide. These inorganic sunscreens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have been applied to a surface treatment, and may optionally exist in the form of an aqueous or oily predispersion.

[0391] The formulation for protection against solar ultraviolet rays will preferably be selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, 2,4-bis[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxyphenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris[4-(2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine, and 2-ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxomidazolidine propionate.

[0392] The term “for topical use” used in the definition of the composition (E1) in the form of an oil-in-water type emulsion defined above means that the composition is formulated to be applied to hair, scalp, or mucous membranes, regardless of whether it is applied directly in the case of a cosmetic, dermocosmetic, dermopharmaceutical, or pharmaceutical composition, or indirectly in the case of a body hygiene product in the form of a fabric or paper wipe, for example, or a hygiene product intended to come into contact with skin or mucous membranes.

[0393] The term “acceptable for cosmetic use” used in the definition of the aqueous phase (A1) of the oil-in-water type emulsion composition (E1) means, according to the Council of the European Economic Community Directive No. 76 / 768 / EEC of July 27, 1976, amended by Directive No. 93 / 35 / EEC of June 14, 1993, any substance or preparation intended to come into contact with various parts of the human body (epidermis, body hair and hair system, nails, lips, and genitals), or teeth and oral mucosa for the purpose of cleansing, fragrance, modifying / modifying their appearance, modifying / modifying their body odor, protecting them, or keeping them in good condition.

[0394] Compositions (F) and (F') may be administered topically to improve moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips.

[0395] Compositions (F) and (F') may be administered topically to alleviate and / or eliminate and / or prevent cracking and / or dry ringworm and / or tearing of the skin or mucous membranes accompanied by lesions of the skin and / or mucous membranes, particularly eczema and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dryness.

[0396] 1) Preparation of a dissolved product (Ly) according to the present invention

[0397] Lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoechas is prepared by performing the previously described process and, more specifically, the following steps:

[0398] - Step a) of preparing the previously described sterilized Helichrysum stoekas sample using Helichrysum stoekas leaves sterilized by cutting into fragments of several millimeters and then proceeding sequentially with the following steps):

[0399] - In a bath of 70% ethanol and Tween™ 80 (0.05%) for 5 minutes

[0400] - In a 1% water-based bleach bath for 5 minutes.

[0401] Next, the leaves are washed three times in succession in sterilized distilled water.

[0402] - The previously described callus formation step b) using a callus medium (its composition is listed in Table 1 above) for incubation for a duration of 3 weeks at a temperature of 20 to 25°C in a bright place.

[0403] - Suspension step c of the previously described dedifferentiated cells using a culture medium (its composition is listed in Table 2 above) stirred by orbital-type stirring at a speed of 100 rpm for a period of 14 to 30 days at a temperature of 20 to 25°C in sunlight.

[0404] - Step d) of the selection of the previously described microsuspension, to which 1 / 6 to 1 / 4 of the culture obtained in step c) is recovered and a large amount of suspension medium in a volume adjusted to the volume of inoculum available in the container as described in Table 2 is added thereto.

[0405] The new suspension is cultured for a period of 14 days in a climate-controlled chamber stirred by orbital-type stirring at a speed of 100 rpm at a temperature of 20 to 25°C in natural light.

[0406] - Step e) of the previously described biomass preparation, in which 1 / 6 to 1 / 4 of the medium obtained in Step d) is recovered, and a large amount of suspension medium in a volume adjusted to the volume of inoculum available in a container as described in Table 2 is added thereto.

[0407] The new suspension is cultured for a period of 14 days in a climate chamber within a wave bioreactor having a capacity of 5 to 1,000 liters, stirred by orbital-type stirring at a speed of 25 rpm at a temperature of 20 to 25°C in natural light.

[0408] - High-pressure homogenization step f) of the medium obtained at the end of step e) by passing the medium obtained at the end of step e) through a GEA brand high-pressure homogenizer at a pressure of 500 bar while passing it at a temperature of 40°C.

[0409] - The dissolved product (Ly) obtained in this way comprises the following per 100 mass%:

[0410] - 90 mass% to 98 mass% water

[0411] - 10 mass% to 2 mass% of solid

[0412] - Stabilization of the medium obtained in step f) by mixing the medium obtained in step f) at 60 mass% with 0.8 mass% of a thickener sold under the brand name Solagum™ AX, 37.9 mass% of glycerol, 0.3% of potassium sorbate, and 1% of sodium benzoate to achieve a pH value of 5.3 (step g).

[0413] Composition C obtained in this way A per 100% of its mass, it includes the following:

[0414] - 60 mass% of dissolved product (Ly)

[0415] - 37.9 mass% of glycerol

[0416] - 0.8 mass% Solagum™ AX

[0417] - 0.3 mass% potassium sorbate

[0418] - 1 mass% sodium benzoate.

[0419] 2) Experimental use of the biological effects of the lysate of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoekas according to the present invention

[0420] As previously mentioned, the solution obtained by performing the process comprising steps a) through f) described above, which is previously defined, maintains an excellent moisturizing level and helps to provide comfort to dry, reactive, and / or sensitive skin.

[0421] Specific technical effects of the lysate (Ly) obtained by performing the process comprising steps a) through f) as previously defined and described above have been demonstrated in several in vitro and in vivo study models.

[0422] The experiment was repeated twice.

[0423] Values ​​were expressed as mean ± sd [standard deviation].

[0424] For each condition, the percentages of stimulation and protection were calculated as follows:

[0425] Restoration% = 100 x [Average(Composition C) A) - Average(Damaged Epidermis)] / [Average(Healthy Epidermis) - Average(Damaged Epidermis)].

[0426] A - Moisturizing effect

[0427] Next, a test was performed to demonstrate the moisturizing effect of the previously defined solution (Ly).

[0428] Various analyses were performed to study the restoration of barrier function after damage by the "tape-stripping" method.

[0429] This method consists of the steps of applying a piece of adhesive tape ("D-Squame" brand) to the surface of the skin, adhering it to the surface of the skin, and then removing it. The first application removes a complete cell layer of keratinocytes. The amount of keratinocytes on the adhesive tape decreases as the application progresses.

[0430] Apply the "D-Squame" adhesive tape to the external plate, taking care to always apply it in the same location and in the same manner with constant thumb pressure. Remove the adhesive tape with a gentle, rapid, and unidirectional motion to achieve homogeneous removal of keratinocytes.

[0431] These models enable the evaluation of the effects of cosmetic formulations on impaired barrier function and epidermal physiology.

[0432] Depending on the type of evaluation of the effect of improving moisture of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips, 1% composition C A A formulation (F1) containing is used, and its mass composition is as follows.

[0433] [Table 3]

[0434]

[0435] (1) Montanov™ L (INCI name: C14-22 alcohol & C12-20 alkyl glucoside) is an emulsifying composition intended to stabilize emulsions and used to manufacture cosmetic formulations.

[0436] (2) Simulsol™ 165 (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate) is an emulsifying composition intended to stabilize emulsions, particularly oil-in-water emulsions, and used to manufacture cosmetic formulations.

[0437] (3) DUB™ DNPG (INCI name: neopentyl glycol diheptanoate) is an ester used as a fatty phase and / or skin emollient to manufacture cosmetic formulations.

[0438] (4) Sepimax™ Zen (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosslinked Polymer-6) is a crosslinked anionic polymer electrolyte used as a thickener and / or emulsifier and / or stabilizer to manufacture cosmetic formulations.

[0439] (5) Sepinov™ EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer) is a cross-linked anionic polymer electrolyte used as a thickener and / or emulsifier and / or stabilizer to manufacture cosmetic formulations.

[0440] (6) Euxyl™ PE 9010 (INCI name: phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin) is a preservative used to manufacture cosmetic formulations.

[0441] (7) Sensiva™ PA40 (INCI name: 3-phenylpropan-1-ol and octane-1,2-diol and propan-1,3-diol) is a preservative used to manufacture cosmetic formulations.

[0442] A.1 Measurement of transepidermal water loss (or TEWL).

[0443] Transcutaneous water loss is measured using a device sold by the company Courage & Khazaka under the trademark Tewameter™ 300.

[0444] The cylindrical measuring chamber of the Tewameter™ 300 device was applied over the insert, and a sealant ensured airtightness between the measuring cell and the tissue. The value of the water evaporation rate (expressed in g / m²·h) was automatically determined.

[0445] Environmental conditions during TEWL (transcutaneous water loss) were controlled at a stable temperature of 20°C and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0446] An explant having impaired barrier function (by tape-stripping method) characterized by transepidermal water loss exceeding 35 g / m²·h, 1% of composition C daily for 5 days, 1 hour after impairment of barrier function. A Treatment is performed with a formulation containing [...]. Transepidermal water loss is evaluated based on the results of these 5 days of treatment.

[0447] The experiment was repeated three times.

[0448] Values ​​were expressed as mean ± sd [standard deviation].

[0449] For each condition, the effect percentage was calculated as follows:

[0450] Effectiveness % = [Average (Condition)] / [Average (Damaged Epidermis)] x 100 - 100

[0451] Statistical analysis was performed by comparing conditions in pairs using Student's t-test and a significance level set at 5%. The difference in efficacy between the two products was considered as follows:

[0452] - Significant for p < 0.05;

[0453] - For 0.05 ≤ p < 0.1, "significance level";

[0454] - and not significant for p > 0.1.

[0455] The results were collected and analyzed in Table 4 below:

[0456] [Table 4]

[0457]

[0458] Changes in transepidermal water loss

[0459] SL 0.1 < p < 0.05, *** p < 0.001

[0460] A reduction in transepidermal water loss signifies an improvement in the skin's barrier function, which, in other words, means the skin is better hydrated.

[0461] Therefore, composition C, which is the subject of the present invention A Treatment of damaged external tissues using the containing combination allows for a reduction in transepidermal water loss between D0 and D5, thereby demonstrating a superior moisturization state of the skin.

[0462] A.2 Measurement of intercellular space

[0463] The term "intercellular space" refers to the space between two adjacent cells. An explant having impaired barrier function (by a tape-stripping method) characterized by transepidermal water loss exceeding 35 g / m²·h is treated with 1% of composition C daily for 1 hour after the impairment of barrier function and for 5 days. A Treat with a formulation containing

[0464] The experiment was repeated three times.

[0465] The intercellular space between keratinocytes is measured through a method consisting of ultrastructure studies by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) using a Hitachi HT7700 microscope.

[0466] The tissue was fixed with 2% glutaraldehyde in 0.1 M Sorensen phosphate buffer (pH 7.4), stained with 2% aqueous uranyl acetate solution, then dehydrated and embedded in epoxy resin (Epon 812). Ultrafine sections (50 nm) were fixed on a copper grid.

[0467] For each condition, the intercellular space between keratinocytes in the basal layer (deepest layer of the epidermis) was measured based on the obtained images. This analysis was not performed on healthy explants.

[0468] The experiment was repeated three times.

[0469] Values ​​were expressed as mean ± sd [standard deviation].

[0470] For each condition, the effect percentage was calculated as follows:

[0471] Effectiveness % = [Average (Condition)] / [Average (Damaged Epidermis)] x 100 - 100

[0472] Statistical analysis was performed by comparing conditions in pairs using the Student's t-test and a significance level set at 5%. The difference in efficacy between the two products was considered as follows:

[0473] - Significant for p < 0.05;

[0474] - For 0.05 ≤ p < 0.1, "significance level";

[0475] - and not significant for p > 0.1.

[0476] [Table 5]

[0477]

[0478] Measurement of intercellular space for damaged exoskeletons

[0479] *** p < 0.001

[0480] Damaged external food piece and composition C according to the present invention AThe reduction of the intercellular space between keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis to -61% after assembling reflects better tissue cohesion and organization. By becoming more cohesive and better organized, the explant limits water loss, thereby reducing transepidermal water loss; consequently, this leads to improved skin barrier function and superior skin hydration.

[0481] A.3 Measurement of stratum corneum thickness

[0482] The term "stratum corneum thickness" refers to the thickness of the outermost superficial layer or keratinized layer of the epidermis.

[0483] An explant having impaired barrier function (by tape-stripping method) characterized by transepidermal water loss exceeding 35 g / m²·h, 1% of composition C daily for 5 days, 1 hour after impairment of barrier function. A Treat with a formulation containing

[0484] The experiment was repeated three times.

[0485] The thickness of the stratum corneum is measured using a method consisting of ultrastructure studies by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) using a Hitachi HT7700 microscope.

[0486] The tissue was fixed with 2% glutaraldehyde in 0.1 M Sorensen phosphate buffer (pH 7.4), stained with 2% aqueous uranyl acetate solution, then dehydrated and embedded in epoxy resin (Epon 812). Ultrafine sections (50 nm) were fixed on a copper grid.

[0487] For each condition, the thickness of the stratum corneum was measured based on the obtained images (4 measurements per image). This analysis was not performed on the healthy food sample.

[0488] The experiment was repeated three times.

[0489] Values ​​were expressed as mean ± sd [standard deviation].

[0490] For each condition, the effect percentage was calculated as follows:

[0491] Effectiveness % = [Average (Condition)] / [Average (Damaged Epidermis)] x 100 - 100

[0492] Statistical analysis was performed by comparing conditions in pairs using the Student's t-test and a significance level set at 5%. The difference in efficacy between the two products was considered as follows:

[0493] - Significant for p < 0.05;

[0494] - For 0.05 ≤ p < 0.1, "significance level";

[0495] - and not significant for p > 0.1.

[0496] [Table 6]

[0497]

[0498] Measurement of stratum corneum thickness for damaged exoskeletons

[0499] *** p < 0.001

[0500] The stratum corneum is the outermost layer of cells in the epidermis and the outermost tissue of the skin.

[0501] Composition C according to the present invention A When combined with damaged external tissue, an increase in the thickness of this layer by up to +77% can limit moisture loss, thereby achieving better moisturization of the skin and improved restoration of barrier function.

[0502] A.4 Measurement of biochemical factors that promote skin hydration.

[0503] The term "NMF" (an abbreviation for "Natural Moisturizing Factor") refers to natural moisturizing factors comprising a set of hygroscopic substances located within the keratinocytes of the epidermis.

[0504] The term "ceramide" refers to chemical compounds of the ceramide class whose functional groups maintain the aggregation of various components of the skin. Ceramide forms a protective layer that helps prevent skin dehydration and protects the skin against external aggression.

[0505] An explant having impaired barrier function (by tape-stripping method) characterized by transepidermal water loss exceeding 35 g / m²·h, 1% of composition C daily for 5 days, 1 hour after impairment of barrier function. A Treat with a formulation containing

[0506] The experiment was repeated twice.

[0507] Values ​​were expressed as mean ± sd [standard deviation].

[0508] For each condition, the effect percentage was calculated as follows:

[0509] Effectiveness % = [Average (Condition)] / [Average (Damaged Epidermis)] x 100 - 100

[0510] Restoration% = 100 x [Average(Composition C) A ) - Average(Damaged Epidermis)] / [Average(Healthy Epidermis) - Average(Damaged Epidermis)].

[0511] NMF is measured by the LC-MS / MS chromatography method using an Agilent 1100 HPLC system (Agilent Technologies) connected to a Micromass Quattro Micro API mass spectrometer (Waters) equipped with electron spray ionization. The values ​​obtained from the NMF measurement are expressed in micrograms per milligram of protein.

[0512] Ceramide is measured by the LC-MS / MS chromatography method using a system consisting of HPLC UltiMate 3,000 liquid (ThermoScientific) connected to an MSQ Plus mass spectrometer (ThermoScientific) equipped with atmospheric pressure chemical ionization (APCI) or high-pressure liquid chromatography.

[0513] The value obtained from the ceramide measurement is expressed in any unit per milligram of protein.

[0514] [Table 7]

[0515]

[0516] Untreated damaged external food piece and composition C according to the present invention A Measurement of ceramide and NMF in damaged explants treated with (not statistical - n=2)

[0517] Composition C according to the present invention A Restoring 24% of the amount of ceramide after treatment of damaged external structures using [method] improves the restoration of barrier function and reflects this.

[0518] Composition C according to the present invention A The restoration of 32% of the amount of NMF after treatment of damaged external tissues using [the product] improves the differentiation of keratinocytes and thus improves the restoration of the skin's barrier function, and reflects this.

[0519] Restoring the skin's barrier function prevents skin dehydration and enables it to protect against external attacks.

[0520] A.5 Measurement of the number of keratinized glass particles

[0521] Keratinized glass particles are a component of the granular layer of the skin.

[0522] An increase in the number of keratinized glass particles (containing pro-filaggrin) reflects an improvement in the keratinocyte differentiation process.

[0523] An explant having impaired barrier function (by tape-stripping method) characterized by transepidermal water loss exceeding 35 g / m²·h, 1% of composition C daily for 5 days, 1 hour after impairment of barrier function. A Treat with a formulation containing

[0524] The keratinized glass particles are measured through a method consisting of ultra-fine structure studies by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) using a Hitachi HT7700 microscope.

[0525] The tissue was fixed with 2% glutaraldehyde in 0.1 M Sorensen phosphate buffer (pH 7.4), stained with 2% aqueous uranyl acetate solution, then dehydrated and embedded in epoxy resin (Epon 812). Ultrafine sections (50 nm) were fixed on a copper grid.

[0526] For each condition, quantification of keratinized glass particles was performed based on the acquired images. This analysis was not performed on healthy ex-feed samples.

[0527] The experiment was repeated three times.

[0528] Values ​​were expressed as mean ± sd [standard deviation].

[0529] For each condition, the effect percentage was calculated as follows:

[0530] Effectiveness % = [Average (Condition)] / [Average (Damaged Epidermis)] x 100 - 100

[0531] Statistical analysis was performed by comparing conditions in pairs using the Student's t-test and a significance level set at 5%. The difference in efficacy between the two products was considered as follows:

[0532] - Significant for p < 0.05;

[0533] - For 0.05 ≤ p < 0.1, "significance level";

[0534] - and not significant for p > 0.1.

[0535] [Table 8]

[0536]

[0537] Composition C according to the present invention A Measurement of the number of keratinized glass particles in damaged exoskeletons treated with [method]

[0538] *** p < 0.001

[0539] In comparison to the number of keratinized glass particles of the damaged external food piece, the damaged external food piece is the subject of the present invention composition C A When combined with, the increase in the number of keratinized glass particles reflects the improvement of the keratinocyte differentiation process and, consequently, the improvement of the keratinocyte differentiation process and thus the improvement in the restoration of skin barrier function.

[0540] A.6 Analysis of Lacrimal Zones in Human Skin

[0541] An analysis was performed to study the pore zones that affect the moisturizing effect.

[0542] The term "lacunae" refers to a hydrophilic region formed from the breakdown of corneodesmosomes present in the stratum corneum, containing water and numerous proteins, including enzymes involved in the metabolic processes of fats and proteins.

[0543] Analysis of the rhizome region is performed through a method consisting of ultra-fine structure studies by transmission electron microscopy (TEM) using a Hitachi HT7700 microscope.

[0544] The tissue was fixed with 2% glutaraldehyde in 0.1 M Sorensen phosphate buffer (pH 7.4), stained with 2% aqueous uranyl acetate solution, then dehydrated and embedded in epoxy resin (Epon 812). Ultrafine sections (50 nm) were fixed on a copper grid.

[0545] For each condition, quantification of the lacunae region was performed based on the acquired images. This analysis was not performed on the healthy dining-out sample.

[0546] The experiment was repeated three times.

[0547] Values ​​were expressed as mean ± sd [standard deviation].

[0548] For each condition, the effect percentage was calculated as follows:

[0549] Effectiveness % = [Average (Condition)] / [Average (Damaged Epidermis)] x 100 - 100

[0550] Statistical analysis was performed by comparing conditions in pairs using the Student's t-test and a significance level set at 5%. The difference in efficacy between the two products was considered as follows:

[0551] - Significant for p < 0.05;

[0552] - For 0.05 ≤ p < 0.1, "significance level";

[0553] - and not significant for p > 0.1.

[0554] [Table 9]

[0555]

[0556] Composition C according to the present invention A Measurement of the number of hiatal zones for damaged exoskeletons treated with [method]

[0557] *p < 0.05

[0558] Composition C according to the present invention A The damaged external fragment treated with composition C A It has a greater number of pore zones than damaged external fragments that are not combined with it, which reflects a higher moisture content in the skin being analyzed and therefore better moisturization.

[0559] A.7 Analysis of human skin by corneometry

[0560] The purpose of analyzing human skin moisture measurement technology is to determine the moisture status of the upper layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) by measuring its electrical characteristics.

[0561] This analysis using skin moisture measurement technology is performed through a method consisting of measuring the electrical capacitance of a dielectric medium. Any change in moisture on the skin surface causes a change in their dielectric constant and, consequently, the electrical capacitance measurements. A skin moisture meter measures this electrical capacitance of the outermost superficial layer of the epidermis using a probe applied perpendicularly to the skin under constant pressure. During the measurement, an electric field penetrates the upper layer of the skin, and the dielectric constant is measured. The measurement value is obtained within 1 second after application. It is displayed in any unit ranging from 0 to 125 and represents the moisture index (6 to 10: extremely dry skin - 10 to 50: dry skin - 50 to 125: hydrated skin).

[0562] The skin moisture meter used in this study is the CM825 Cormeometer® (Courage & Khazaka).

[0563] Therefore, composition C A Women were recruited to evaluate the moisturizing effect of against a placebo and against its glycerol equivalent (0.364%). They were subjected to the formulation (previously described formulation (F1) and only composition C). A A formulation (F'1) different from (F1) was applied twice daily for 21 days, and measurements were performed at D0, D7, and D21. Moisture was evaluated by skin moisturization measurement technology (measurement of water content in the stratum corneum).

[0564] The results are as follows:

[0565] [Table 10]

[0566]

[0567]

[0568]

[0569] This study [research] composition C according to the present invention after a duration of 21 days A It indicates the moisturizing ability of.

[0570] General conclusion

[0571] In conclusion, the experimental test yielded composition C according to the present invention comprising a lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoekas. A It was shown that by reducing transepidermal water loss, decreasing the intercellular space between keratinocytes in the basal layer of the epidermis, increasing the thickness of the stratum corneum, stimulating skin barrier restoration, and increasing the number of pyloric zones, it can increase and / or maintain the moisturization status of human skin and / or scalp, more particularly dry, / or sensitive, or / or reactive skin.

[0572] B) Formulation

[0573] In the following formulations, the percentage is expressed based on the weight of the formulation.

[0574] B.1 Facial Makeup Remover Fluid

[0575] Formulation

[0576] Composition (C A ) 10.00%

[0577] Methyl paraben 0.15%

[0578] Phenoxyethanol 0.80%

[0579] Sepicalm™ S 1.00%

[0580] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.10%

[0581] Appropriate amount of water 100.00%

[0582] procedure:

[0583] Mix the various ingredients in water in the specified order while stirring, and adjust the pH to about 7.

[0584] B.2 Baby Hair and Body Shampoo

[0585] Formulation

[0586] A

[0587] Composition (C A ) 15.00%

[0588] Proteol™ APL 5.00%

[0589] Sepicide™ HB 0.50%

[0590] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.10%

[0591] B

[0592] Water 20.00%

[0593] Capigel™ 98 3.50%

[0594] C

[0595] Appropriate amount of water 100.00%

[0596] Sepicide™ CI 0.30%

[0597] Appropriate amount of coloring agent

[0598] An appropriate amount of sodium hydroxide up to pH = 7.2

[0599] procedure:

[0600] Composition (C A ) is mixed with Proteol™ APL and Sepicide™ HB (Phase A). Capigel™ 98 is diluted in part of the water and added to the previously obtained Phase A (Phase B). The remaining water is added to Phase B, followed by the addition of Sepicide™ CI and a coloring agent. Sodium hydroxide is used to adjust the pH of the mixture to approximately 7.2.

[0601] B.3 Mild foaming gel

[0602] Formulation

[0603] A

[0604] Composition (C A ) 8.50%

[0605] Proteol™ APL 3.00%

[0606] Euxyl™ PE9010 1.00%

[0607] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.10%

[0608] B

[0609] Appropriate amount of water 100.00%

[0610] Appropriate amount of lactic acid up to pH = 6.0

[0611] procedure:

[0612] Composition C of fragrance and preservative Euxyl™ PE9010 A Dissolve in a mixture composed of Proteol™ APL (Phase A). Add water and adjust the pH to about 6.0 using lactic acid.

[0613] B.4 Frequent-use shampoo

[0614] Formulation

[0615] A

[0616] Composition (C A ) 12.80%

[0617] Proteol™ OAT 5.00%

[0618] Euxyl™ PE9010 1.00%

[0619] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.30%

[0620] Appropriate amount of water 100.00%

[0621] B

[0622] Montaline™ C40 8.50%

[0623] Appropriate amount of lactic acid up to pH = 6.0

[0624] Procedure: Mix all components of Phase A, homogenize, add Montaline™ C40, and adjust the pH to approximately 6.0 using lactic acid.

[0625] B.5 Baby Cleansing Milk

[0626] Formulation

[0627] A

[0628] Simulsol™ 165 2.00%

[0629] Montanov™ 202 1.00%

[0630] Lanol™ 99 3.00%

[0631] Dimethicone 1.00%

[0632] Isohexadecane 3.00%

[0633] B

[0634] Appropriate amount of water 100.00%

[0635] C

[0636] Sepiplus™ 400 0.30%

[0637] D

[0638] Composition (C A ) 6.35%

[0639] E

[0640] Sepicide™ HB 0.30%

[0641] DMDM Hydantoin 0.20%

[0642] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.10%

[0643] Procedure: Phases A and B, composed of a mixture of various components, are heated individually. Phase C is added to the hot fat phase and poured into the aqueous phase to prepare an emulsion; homogenized for a few minutes while vigorously stirring (by a rotor / stator turbomixer). Next, Phase D is added to the hot emulsion, and the emulsion is cooled to room temperature while moderately stirring. Phase E is added at 40°C.

[0644] B.6 Baby shower gel formulation

[0645] A

[0646] Water 56.06%

[0647] Sepimax™ Zen 3.00%

[0648] Sepiplus™ S 0.80%

[0649] B

[0650] Proteol™ OAT 20.80%

[0651] Oramix™ NS 10 9.30%

[0652] Amonyl™ 265 BA 5.10%

[0653] C

[0654] Composition (C A ) 2.00%

[0655] Glyceryl glucoside 1.00%

[0656] Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol 1.00%

[0657] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.90%

[0658] Colorant 0.04%

[0659] procedure:

[0660] Sepimax™ ZEN is dispersed in water and stirred using a mechanical stirrer equipped with a deagglomerator, a counter-rotating impeller, and an anchor paddle until a perfectly smooth gel is obtained. Sepiplus™ S is added and then stirred until the mixture becomes homogeneous. Next, the components of Phase B are added and homogenized, and the additives of Phase C are added individually. The pH is adjusted to 6.0 to 6.5.

[0661] B.7 BB Cream

[0662] Formulation

[0663] A

[0664] Easynov™ 2.30%

[0665] Lanol™ 99 1.00%

[0666] Sepimat™ H10W 1.00%

[0667] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 5.00%

[0668] B

[0669] Cyclomethicone 6.00%

[0670] Triethoxycaprylsilane and alumina-silane and titanium oxide 8.00%

[0671] Red iron oxide and triethoxycaprylsilane 0.24%

[0672] Yellow iron oxide and triethoxycaprylsilane 0.66%

[0673] Black iron oxide and triethoxycaprylsilane 0.09%

[0674] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.10%

[0675] C

[0676] An appropriate amount of water up to 100%

[0677] Sepinov™ EMT10 1.20%

[0678] D

[0679] Composition (C A ) 2.00%

[0680] Sepitonic™ M3 1.00%

[0681] Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol 1.00%

[0682] procedure:

[0683] Phase B is prepared by mixing various components and homogenized for a period of 6 minutes at a rotational speed of 4,500 rpm using a mixer equipped with a rotor-stator system. Phase C is prepared by adding Sepinov™ EMT10 to a mixture of water and glycerol and homogenized for 4 minutes at a rotational speed of 4,000 rpm using a mixer equipped with a rotor-stator system. Phases A and B are added to Phase C, and the resulting mixture is stirred at a speed of 30 rpm for 2 minutes and then at a speed of 50 rpm for 20 minutes using a mechanical stirrer equipped with anchor paddles. The components of the phases are added one by one and stirred at a speed of 50 rpm for 25 minutes.

[0684] B.8 High-protection antisun spray with an SPF greater than 30

[0685] Formulation

[0686] A

[0687] Montanov™ L 1.00%

[0688] Montanov™ 82 1.00%

[0689] C12-15 alkyl benzoate 17.00%

[0690] Dimethicone 3.00%

[0691] Octocrylene 6.00%

[0692] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 6.00%

[0693] Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine 3.00%

[0694] Tocopherol 0.05%

[0695] B

[0696] An appropriate amount of water up to 100%

[0697] C

[0698] Simulgel™ INS 100 0.50%

[0699] Cyclodimethicone 5.00%

[0700] D

[0701] Composition (C A ) 3.00%

[0702] Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol 1.00%

[0703] Fragrance / Air Freshener 0.20%

[0704] E

[0705] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol 10.00%

[0706] Appropriate amount of 25% citric acid up to pH = 5

[0707] B.9 Immersion moisturizing bath for paper masks

[0708] Formulation

[0709] A

[0710] Appropriate amount of water 100%

[0711] Glycerol 2.00%

[0712] B

[0713] Sepimax™ Zen 0.15%

[0714] C

[0715] Phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerol 1.00%

[0716] 1,2-Hexanediol 1.00%

[0717] D

[0718] Composition (C A ) 1.00%

[0719] Sepicalm™ S: A mixture of N-cocoyl amino acid, sarcosine, potassium aspartate, and magnesium aspartate as described in WO 98 / 09611;

[0720] Proteol™ APL: A mixture of sodium salts of N-cocoyl amino acids obtained by the acylation of amino acids characteristic of apple juice;

[0721] Sepicide™ HB: A mixture of the preservatives phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, and butyl paraben;

[0722] Capigel™ 98: Copolymer of acrylates;

[0723] Sepicide™ CI: Preservative imidazoline urea;

[0724] Sepicide™ HB: A mixture of the preservatives phenoxyethanol, methyl paraben, ethyl paraben, propyl paraben, butyl paraben, and isobutyl paraben;

[0725] Euxyl™ PE9010: A mixture of phenoxyethanol and ethylhexyl glycerol;

[0726] Proteol™ OAT: A mixture of N-lauryl amino acids obtained by total hydrolysis of oat protein as described in WO 94 / 26694;

[0727] Montaline™ C40: Monoethanolamine cocamidopropyl betainamide chloride salt;

[0728] Simulsol™ 165: A mixture of PEG-100 stearate and glyceryl stearate;

[0729] Sepiplus™ 400: Self-invertible inverse latex of polyacrylate in polyisobutene comprising polysorbate 20 as described in WO 2005 / 040230;

[0730] Sepimax™ Zen (INCI name: Polyacrylate Crosslinked Polymer-6): Thickening polymer in powder form;

[0731] Sepiplus™ S (INCI Name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate)

[0732] Copolymer and polyisobutene and PEG-7 trimethylolpropane coconut ether): self-reversible reversed-phase latex;

[0733] Oramix™ NS 10 (INCI name: Decyl Glucoside) is a foaming agent used to manufacture cosmetic formulations;

[0734] Amonyl™ 265 BA (INCI name: Cocobetaine): Effervescent amphoteric surfactant;

[0735] Sepinov™ EMT10 (INCI Name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate)

[0736] Copolymer): Thickening copolymer in powder form;

[0737] Easynov™ (INCI name: Octyldodecanol and Octyldodecyl Xylocide and PEG-30

[0738] Dipolyhydroxystearate): An emulsifier having a lipophilic tendency;

[0739] Sepimat™ H10 FW (INCI name: methyl methacrylate crosslinked polymer and squalane): polymer used as a texturer;

[0740] Sepitonic™ M3 (INCI Name: Magnesium Aspartate and Zinc Gluconate and

[0741] Copper gluconate): A mixture used as an energizing agent and free-radical scavenger for cells;

[0742] Montanov™ L (INCI name: C14-22 alcohol and C12-20 alkylglucoside): Emulsion

[0743] my;

[0744] Montanov™ 82 (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol and cocoyl glucoside): emulsifier;

[0745] Simulgel™ INS100 (INCI Name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate)

[0746] Copolymer and isohexadecane and polysorbate 60): Polymeric thickener.

Claims

Claim 1 A form of the plant Helichrysum stoaecas suitable for topical application to improve moisture of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips ( Helichrysum stoechas Lysate (Ly) of dedifferentiated cells. Claim 2 ◈Claim 2 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ The lysate (Ly) of Claim 1, characterized by being obtained from high-pressure homogenization of a culture of dedifferentiated cells of the plant Helichrysum stoeacas. Claim 3 A composition for topical use (C1) in the form of a gel, comprising, per 100% mass of the composition: - 95 mass% to 99.5 mass% of the solubility (Ly) defined in claim 1 or 2, - 0.5 mass% to 5 mass% of at least one thickening agent and / or gelling agent. Claim 4 ◈Claim 4 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ A composition (C1) according to claim 3, wherein the gelling agent and / or thickening agent is selected from polysaccharides, cellulose and cellulose derivatives, starch, and linear, branched, or cross-linked polymers of the polymer electrolyte type. Claim 5 ◈Claim 5 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ The composition (C1) of Claim 3 or 4, in a form suitable for topical administration to improve moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips. Claim 6 A composition for topical use (C'1) in the form of a gel, comprising, per 100% mass of the composition: - 50 mass% to 80 mass% of the solubility (Ly) defined in claim 1 or 2; - 0.1 mass% to 5 mass% of at least one thickening agent and / or gelling agent; and - 15 mass% to 49.9 mass% of at least one solvent. Claim 7 In claim 6, the composition (C'1) is characterized in that the solvent is selected from the components of the group consisting of the following: - Compound of formula Ia: [Formula Ia]HO-[CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-O] n -H In the above formula, n represents an integer such as 1 or more and 15 or less, or 1 or more and 10 or less, or 1 or more and 6 or less, or 1 or more and 4 or less, or 1, or 2, or 3, or 4;- Compound of formula Ib: [Formula Ib]Ra1-C(Rb1)(OH)-C(OH)(Rc1)(Rd1) In the above formula, the radicals Ra1, Rb1, Rc1, and Rd1 each independently represent a hydrogen atom, or a saturated aliphatic radical containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, or formula Ib1: [Formula Ib1]Ra1-C(Rb1)(OH)-[C(Re1)(Rf1)] t -C(OH)(Rc1)(Rd1) In the above formula, t is equal to 1, 2, or 3, and each of the radicals Ra1, Rb1, Rc1, Rd1, Re1, and Rf1 independently represents a hydrogen atom or a saturated aliphatic radical containing 1 to 5 carbon atoms, and at least one of the radicals Ra1 or Rb1 and / or at least one of the radicals Rc1 or Rd1 does not represent a hydrogen atom. Claim 8 ◈Claim 8 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ A composition (C'1) characterized in that, in claim 6 or 7, the solvent is glycerol. Claim 9 ◈Claim 9 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ A composition (C'1) in a form suitable for topical administration to improve moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips, in accordance with claim 6 or 7. Claim 10 A composition for topical use (C2) in the form of a water-in-oil type emulsion or an oil-in-water type emulsion containing a dissolved substance (Ly) defined in claim 1 or 2. Claim 11 A composition for topical use (F) in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, comprising, per 100 mass% of the composition for topical use (C1) or (C'1), 60 mass% to 90 mass% of the composition defined in any one of claims 3 to 9, i) at least one oil and optionally at least one wax, and ii) at least one emulsifying surfactant (S1), 10 mass% to 40 mass% of a fatty phase (A2). Claim 12 ◈Claim 12 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ The composition (F) of Claim 11, wherein the emulsifying surfactant (S1) is selected from the group consisting of an alkyl polyglycoside composition, a composition of an alkyl polyglycoside and a fatty alcohol, a polyglycerol ester, an alkoxylated polyglycerol ester, a polyglycol polyhydroxystearate, a polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate, and an alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearate. Claim 13 A composition for topical use (F'), comprising: an aqueous phase (A1) in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, wherein the aqueous phase (A1) comprises 50 mass% to 90 mass% of an aqueous phase acceptable for cosmetic use, wherein the aqueous phase (A1) comprises 0.5 mass% to 10 mass% of the dissolved substance (Ly) defined in claim 1 or 2, wherein the fatty phase (G1) comprises 10 mass% to 50 mass% of an oil-in-water type surfactant (S'1) in 0.5 mass% to 20 mass% of the fatty phase (G1) itself, wherein the fatty phase (G1) comprises 80 mass% to 99.5 mass% of at least one oil and / or one wax. Claim 14 ◈Claim 14 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ A composition (C2), (F), or (F') of any one of claims 10 to 13, in a form suitable for topical administration to improve moisturization of the skin and / or scalp and / or lips. Claim 15 ◈Claim 15 was abandoned upon payment of the registration fee.◈ A composition (C2), (F), or (F') in a form suitable for topical administration to alleviate and / or eliminate and / or prevent chapping and / or dry ringworm and / or cracking of the skin or mucous membrane accompanied by lesions of the skin and / or mucous membrane such as eczema and / or atopic dermatitis and / or ichthyosis and / or dryness, in any one of claims 10 to 13.

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