Manufacturing method of coating-free eco friendly fabric

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric. According to one embodiment, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, comprising: a first preparation step of preparing a recycled polyester drawtexture yarn (DTY); a second preparation step of preparing a siro-compact spun yarn using recycled polyester fibers, low melting polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers through a siro-compact spinning process; a weaving step of obtaining a fabric having a predetermined structure through a weaving process using the prepared recycled polyester drawtexture yarn as the warp and the prepared siro-compact spun yarn as the weft; a peach skin step of polishing the surface through a polishing process to maintain the smoothness of the surface of the obtained fabric; a dyeing step of dyeing the polished fabric using a predetermined dye solution; and a heat setting step of heat-treating the dyed fabric to obtain a coating-free eco-friendly fabric.

Description

Technology Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric. Background Technology

[0002] As phased measures to return to normalcy are implemented following the prolonged COVID-19 pandemic, the number of people engaging in outdoor activities is continuously increasing, and at the same time, sales of sports, leisure, and outdoor-related products are also steadily rising.

[0003] With the growth of sports and leisure wear, multifaceted research is being conducted to impart comfort, athletic performance, and fashionability to functional materials. The industry is developing functional products using various functional yarns, but due to the limitations of the functionality that can be expressed from the yarns, the current situation is that only products with very limited functions are being produced.

[0004] In addition, when manufacturing outerwear fabrics, a coating process is additionally designed and introduced after the weaving and dyeing processes to ensure the drape and body of the fabric. However, this additional process requires material resources and adds to the work schedule, which not only delays the delivery of the fabric but also has the disadvantage of incurring environmental charges due to the chemicals used in functional processing, water, and wastewater generated after processing.

[0005] Meanwhile, water-repellent coating, one of the coating processes capable of imparting functionality, is a process that applies a hydrophobic substance to the fibers constituting woven and knitted fabrics to prevent water penetration and keep water droplets in a state, thereby imparting properties opposite to the water-wetting properties of natural fibers such as cotton and linen, and synthetic fibers such as nylon, acrylic, and polyester.

[0006] However, while fluorine-based water repellents, the representative conventional water repellents, are excellent in terms of functionality, their use is restricted due to concerns raised about harmful effects on the human body, such as low birth weight and reduced growth, when water-repellent treated products are worn.

[0007] Furthermore, reflecting these market demands, attempts are being made to replace existing fluorine-based water repellents with non-fluorine-based ones; however, due to insufficient water repellency, poor usability during coating, and inadequate washing durability, measures for improvement are required.

[0008] Accordingly, there is a need for research and development of eco-friendly materials and manufacturing processes that can express body texture by improving yarn characteristics, while simultaneously providing durable water-repellent functionality even when using non-fluorine water-repellent agents. The problem to be solved

[0009] A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to one embodiment of the present invention is proposed to solve the above-mentioned problems. By utilizing low-melting-point polyester fibers, the bonding between various constituent fibers is strengthened, thereby providing a fabric that exhibits a body feel and high washing durability, while simultaneously displaying high water-repellent properties, without the need for a separate coating process. means of solving the problem

[0010] According to one embodiment, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, comprising: a first preparation step of preparing a recycled polyester drawtexture yarn (DTY); a second preparation step of preparing a siro-compact spun yarn using recycled polyester fibers, low melting polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers through a siro-compact spinning process; a weaving step of obtaining a fabric having a predetermined structure through a weaving process using the prepared recycled polyester drawtexture yarn as the warp and the prepared siro-compact spun yarn as the weft; a peach skin step of polishing the surface through a polishing process to maintain the smoothness of the surface of the obtained fabric; a dyeing step of dyeing the polished fabric using a predetermined dye solution; and a heat setting step of heat-treating the dyed fabric to obtain a coating-free eco-friendly fabric.

[0011] In addition, in the first preparation step, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, wherein the recycled polyester drawtexture yarn has a thickness of 140 to 160 denier (D) and contains 550 to 600 filament strands.

[0012] Additionally, in the second preparation step, the silo-compact spinning process comprises: a blending process for obtaining a mixed raw material by mixing the recycled polyester fiber, the low-melting point polyester fiber, and the BCI cotton fiber in a predetermined weight ratio; a carding process for obtaining a sliver with a sliver weight of 350 to 450 g / 6yd by supplying the obtained mixed raw material to a carding machine; a drawing process for drawing the obtained sliver to a sliver weight of 300 to 400 g / 6yd and a D / R ratio of 6.5 to 8.0; and a spinning process for obtaining a sliver by supplying the drawn sliver to a roving machine to obtain a roving yarn, and obtaining the obtained roving yarn by supplying it to a silo spinning machine to obtain the silo spun yarn at a spinning speed of 230 to 300 mpm; a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided.

[0013] In addition, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric can be provided in which, in the above blending process, the above-determined weight ratio satisfies the range of 54~66:2~10:32~36 in the order of recycled polyester fiber, low melting point polyester fiber, and BCI cotton fiber.

[0014] In addition, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, wherein in the second preparation step, the recycled polyester fiber has a thickness of 1 to 2 denier (D) and the low melting point polyester fiber has a thickness of 1.5 to 2.5 denier (D).

[0015] In addition, in the second preparation step, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, wherein the sirow spun yarn is 20 to 30's / 1 sirow spun yarn and has a yarn strength of 2.2 to 2.75 g / d.

[0016] In addition, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, wherein in the above weaving step, the pre-set fabric is one of the fabrics selected from the group consisting of PLAIN fabric, WT MATT fabric, and SOLAR TWILL fabric.

[0017] In addition, the above heat setting step may include a water-repellent step in which a dyed fabric is placed in a water-repellent bath and immersed in a pre-prepared water-repellent composition and then dewatered using a roller; a drying step in which the dewatered fabric is dried in a drying chamber at a drying temperature of 130 to 180°C and a processing speed of 20 to 40 m / min; and a heat treatment step in which the dried fabric is heat-treated at a temperature of 150 to 190°C for 1 to 2 minutes; thereby providing a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric.

[0018] In addition, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, wherein in the water-repellent step, the water-repellent composition comprises 9 to 11 parts by weight of a first non-fluorine water-repellent agent, 54 to 66 parts by weight of a second non-fluorine water-repellent agent, 10 to 20 parts by weight of a crosslinking agent, and 0.3 to 0.7 parts by weight of a water-repellent penetrating agent per 1 liter of water.

[0019] In addition, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric can be provided, wherein the weight ratio of the first non-fluorine water-repellent agent and the second non-fluorine water-repellent agent is 1:6.

[0020] In addition, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric may be provided, wherein the drying step is a step of drying by passing the dehydrated fabric through a drying chamber under sequential drying conditions of maintaining the temperature at 130°C for 12 to 16 seconds, maintaining the temperature at 170°C for 12 to 16 seconds, and maintaining the temperature at 180°C for 24 to 32 seconds.

[0021] In addition, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric can be provided, wherein the above coating-free eco-friendly fabric satisfies grades 3 to 4 of wash fastness according to the KS K ISO 105-C06 test standard and ±3% of shape stability according to the KS K ISO 6330 test standard. Effects of the invention

[0022] A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to one embodiment of the present invention utilizes low-melting-point polyester fibers to strengthen the bonding between various constituent fibers, thereby providing a fabric that exhibits a body feel and high washing durability while simultaneously displaying high water-repellent function without a separate coating process. Brief explanation of the drawing

[0023] FIG. 1 is a flowchart illustrating a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to one embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is a visual image of silo spun yarn according to Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1. Figure 3 is an OM image of the fabric according to Example 1. Figure 4 shows the heat setting evaluation results of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1. Figure 5 is the result of evaluating the shrinkage rate of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1. Figure 6 is the result of evaluating the shrinkage rate of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2. Figure 7 shows the results of the shrinkage rate evaluation of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Comparative Example 1. Figure 8 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2 under different heat treatment conditions (untreated, 150°C, 160°C, 170°C). Figure 9 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2 under different heat treatment conditions (180℃, 190℃). Figure 10 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Comparative Example 1 under different heat treatment conditions (untreated, 150℃, 160℃, 170℃). Figure 11 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Comparative Example 1 under different heat treatment conditions (180℃, 190℃). Figure 12 shows the results of the functional evaluation of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1 and Example 2. Specific details for implementing the invention

[0024] In order to fully understand the structure and effects of the present invention, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail with reference to the attached drawings.

[0025] The present invention is not limited to the embodiments disclosed below, but can be implemented in various forms and subject to various modifications and changes. The description of the embodiments is provided merely to ensure that the disclosure of the present invention is complete and to fully inform those skilled in the art of the scope of the invention. In the attached drawings, the components are depicted enlarged from their actual size for convenience of explanation, and the proportions of each component may be exaggerated or reduced.

[0026] The terms used in this specification are for describing embodiments and are not intended to limit the invention. Furthermore, unless otherwise defined, the terms used in this specification may be interpreted in the sense commonly known to those skilled in the art. In this specification, the singular form includes the plural form unless specifically stated otherwise in the text. As used in this specification, 'comprises' and / or 'comprising' do not exclude the presence or addition of one or more other components, steps, actions, and / or elements to the mentioned components, steps, actions, and / or elements.

[0027] Where in this specification a layer is referred to as being 'on' another layer, it may be formed directly on the upper surface of the other layer, or a third layer may be interposed between them. Although terms such as first, second, etc., have been used in this specification to describe various regions, layers, etc., these regions and layers should not be limited by such terms. These terms are used merely to distinguish one specific region or layer from another region or layer. Accordingly, a part referred to as the first part in one embodiment may be referred to as the second part in another embodiment. The embodiments described and illustrated herein also include their complementary embodiments. Throughout the specification, parts indicated by the same reference numeral represent the same components.

[0028] In the present invention, three types of fibers consisting of recycled polyester fibers, low-melting point polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers are combined through a silo-compact spinning process to prepare silo spun yarn, and a fabric containing the prepared silo spun yarn is woven and then subjected to a heat treatment process to obtain a coating-free eco-friendly fabric with body and washing durability.

[0029] Specifically, the manufacturing method of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric is designed to optimize the blending ratio of three types of fibers and to ensure body texture and water-repellent function through a single heat treatment process without a separate coating process.

[0030] In addition, in the present invention, "body feel" refers to a texture perceived by combining the density, weight, thickness, etc. of the fabric, and may mean an sensible feeling that is visible to the eye or touches the body.

[0031] FIG. 1 is a flowchart illustrating a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to one embodiment of the present invention.

[0032] Referring to FIG. 1, a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to one embodiment of the present invention may include a first preparation step (S100), a second preparation step (S200), a weaving step (S300), a peach skin step (S400), a dyeing step (S500), and a heat setting step (S600).

[0033] The first preparation step (S100) is the step of preparing recycled polyester drawtexture yarn (DTY).

[0034] Recycled polyester drawtexture yarn is well known as Recycled PET and has a thickness of 100 denier (D) or more and may consist of 500 or more strands.

[0035] Specifically, the recycled polyester drawtexture yarn has a thickness of 140 to 160 denier (D) and may contain 550 to 600 filament strands.

[0036] That is, the recycled polyester drawtexture yarn may be a 140~160D / 550~600F recycled polyester drawtexture yarn, and in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it may be a 150D / 576F recycled polyester drawtexture yarn.

[0037] The second preparation step (S200) is a step of preparing a single silo spun yarn through a silo-compact spinning process using recycled polyester fibers, low melting polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers.

[0038] Here, the recycled polyester fiber has a thickness of 1 to 2 denier (D), and in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it may have a thickness of 1.5 denier (D).

[0039] The above low-melting point polyester fiber has a thickness of 1.5 to 2.5 denier (D), and in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it may have a thickness of 2 denier (D).

[0040] The above low-melting point polyester fiber has a low melting point compared to the melting point of general polyester fibers, which is 250 to 260°C, so it can be used for heat fusion purposes.

[0041] Specifically, since low-melting point polyester fibers are melt-bonded at a temperature of 110 to 200°C, they can maintain a consistent shape after being combined with other materials.

[0042] In the second preparation step (S200), the above-mentioned spindle yarn may be a spindle yarn of 20 to 30 seconds / 1.

[0043] Preferably, the above sirow yarn may be either a 20's / 1 sirow yarn or a 30's / 1 sirow yarn.

[0044] In addition, the above silo spun yarn may have a yarn strength of 2.2 to 2.75 g / d, and more specifically, the 20's / 1 silo spun yarn may have a yarn strength of 2.75 g / d, and the 30's / 1 silo spun yarn may have a yarn strength of 2.2 g / d.

[0045] In addition, the second preparation step (S200) is a step of combining three types of fibers through a silo-compact spinning process, and the silo-compact spinning process may include a blending process, a carding process, a drawing process, and a spinning process.

[0046] First, the blending process is a process of unraveling and mixing various types of raw cotton and removing impurities. In the present invention, the blending process may be a process of obtaining a mixed raw material by mixing the recycled polyester fiber, the low-melting point polyester fiber, and the BCI cotton fiber in a predetermined weight ratio.

[0047] In addition, in the blending process, the above-mentioned weight ratio can satisfy the range of 54~66:2~10:32~36 in the order of recycled polyester fiber, low melting point polyester fiber, and BCI cotton.

[0048] In addition, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the previously set weight ratio may be 62:3:35 in the order of recycled polyester fiber, low melting point polyester fiber, and BCI cotton fiber.

[0049] Next, the carding process is a process of separating loosened fibers one by one, removing the short ones, and joining the long ones to form a rope-shaped sliver. In the present invention, the carding process may be a process of supplying the obtained mixed raw materials to a carding machine to obtain a sliver with a sliver weight of 350 to 450 g / 6yd.

[0050] Preferably, the above-mentioned carding process is carried out under process conditions of a sliver weight of 350~450 g / 6yd, a delivery speed of 50~70 m / min, and a full can weight of 14~18 kg.

[0051] Next, the drawing process is a process of making the thickness uniform by combining several strands of carded slivers and pulling, stretching, and flattening them. In the present invention, the drawing process may be a process of stretching the obtained sliver to a sliver weight of 300 to 400 g / 6yd and a D / R ratio of 6.5 to 8.0.

[0052] Preferably, the above-mentioned drawing process is carried out under process conditions of sliver weight 300~400 g / 6yd, D / R ratio 6.5~8.0, number of doubling strands 4~7, and speed 300~400 m / min.

[0053] Next, the spinning process is a process of stretching a yarn of the thickness of a thick cord produced in the roving process to make a yarn having the required thickness and strength. In the present invention, the spinning process may be a process of supplying a stretched sliver to a roving machine to obtain a roving yarn, and supplying the obtained roving yarn to a silo spinning machine to obtain a silo spun yarn at a spinning speed of 230 to 300 mpm.

[0054] Thus, a siro spun yarn containing three types of fibers can be prepared through the second preparation step (S200), and at this time, the content of the low melting point polyester fiber may be 3 to 10 weight percent relative to 100 weight percent of the siro spun yarn.

[0055] The weaving step (S300) is a step of obtaining a fabric having a pre-set structure through a weaving process using prepared recycled polyester drawtexture yarn as the warp and prepared siro spun yarn as the weft.

[0056] The above weaving step (S300) is a step of manufacturing a fabric using yarn prepared through the first preparation step (S100) and the second preparation step (S200), and may include a winding process, a warping process, a warp sizing process, a warp threading process, and a frame hanging process, and manufactures a fabric having a certain width using a general weaving machine.

[0057] Here, the weaving process is preferably carried out under weaving conditions of 6,000 to 8,000 warp threads, 60 to 120 weft density, and 60 to 65 inches width.

[0058] In the weaving step (S300), the previously set fabric may be any one of the fabrics selected from the group consisting of PLAIN fabric, WT MATT fabric, and SOLAR TWILL fabric.

[0059] The peach skin step (S400) is a step of polishing the surface through a polishing process so that the smoothness of the surface of the obtained fabric is maintained.

[0060] The peach skin step (S400) may be a process of removing residue from the surface of the fabric to produce a gloss, thereby improving the feel of the fabric and enhancing the gloss. Additionally, as the polishing process is performed, the dye can be uniformly penetrated into the fabric during subsequent processes. Furthermore, pilling can be prevented and the appearance of the product after dyeing can be improved.

[0061] More specifically, the polishing process can be performed using a paper roll or a brush roll to generate sufficient friction between the paper and the fabric. Here, the polishing process is preferably carried out under process conditions of Roll RPM 1400~1500, Fabric Speed ​​20~30 m / min, and thread count 240~400.

[0062] The dyeing step (S500) is a step of dyeing the polished fabric using a preset dye solution.

[0063] Specifically, the dyeing step (S500) may be a step of immersing the polished fabric in the above-set dye solution and then dyeing it at a temperature of 120 to 140°C for 40 minutes.

[0064] In the dyeing step (S500), the pre-set dye solution may include a colored dye, a dispersant, an ammonium sulfate, and distilled water.

[0065] Here, the above-mentioned pre-set dye solution can be formed by adding distilled water satisfying a liquid ratio of 1:20 relative to the weight of the polished fabric to a colored dye at a concentration of 1% (owf) relative to the weight of the polished fabric, 1g of a dispersant per liter of distilled water, and 1g of an ammonium sulfate per liter of distilled water, and stirring using a stirrer.

[0066] The heat setting step (S600) is a step of heat-treating the dyed fabric to obtain a coating-free eco-friendly fabric.

[0067] The heat setting step (S600) is performed to adjust the width and density of the fabric, enhance shape stability, and simultaneously produce a sense of body and high water-repellent function.

[0068] In addition, the heat setting step (S600) may include a water-repellent step in which the dyed fabric is placed in a water-repellent bath, immersed in a pre-prepared water-repellent composition, and then dewatered using a roller; a drying step in which the dewatered fabric is dried in a drying chamber at a drying temperature of 130 to 180°C and a processing speed of 20 to 40 m / min; and a heat treatment step in which the dried fabric is heat-treated at a temperature of 150 to 190°C for 1 to 2 minutes.

[0069] The water-repellent step is a process for forming a water-repellent layer on the fabric. After dipping the dyed fabric into a water-repellent composition, the fabric is dehydrated using a roller to satisfy a pickup rate of 50 to 60%. For example, if the water-repellent step is carried out at a pickup rate of 55% to obtain 155g of dehydrated fabric, the dehydrated fabric may contain 100g of fabric and 55g of water-repellent composition.

[0070] More specifically, if the pickup rate is less than 50%, the amount of water-repellent agent impregnated in the fabric is reduced, making it difficult to exhibit the high water-repellent properties of the fabric, and if it exceeds 60%, it is undesirable due to yellowing of the color, increased production costs, and rough handling.

[0071] In addition, in the water-repellent step, the water-repellent composition may comprise 9 to 11 parts by weight of a first non-fluorine water-repellent agent, 54 to 66 parts by weight of a second non-fluorine water-repellent agent, 10 to 20 parts by weight of a crosslinking agent, and 0.3 to 0.7 parts by weight of a water-repellent penetrating agent per 1 liter of water.

[0072] In addition, it is preferable that the weight ratio of the first non-fluorine water repellent and the second non-fluorine water repellent is 1:6.

[0073] The first non-fluorine water-repellent agent mentioned above may include a urethane-based water-repellent agent that is an eco-friendly water-repellent agent that does not contain fluorine and has almost no harmful effects on the human body, and Daedong Chemtech’s WR-800NF can be cited as an example. Here, Daedong Chemtech is the name of the manufacturer, and WR-800NF can be said to be the product name.

[0074] The above-mentioned second non-fluorine water-repellent agent may include an acrylic-based water-repellent agent that is an eco-friendly water-repellent agent that does not contain fluorine and has almost no harmful effects on the human body, and Daedong Chemtech’s ER-235 can be cited as an example. Here, Daedong Chemtech is the name of the manufacturer, and ER-235 can be said to be the product name.

[0075] The above crosslinking agent may be at least one substance selected from aromatic isocyanates having isocyanate groups, such as toluene diisocyanate (TDI), diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI), polymeric diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI), tolidine diisocyanate (TODI), and p-phenylene diisocyanate (p-phenylene diisocyanate), or hexamethylene diisocyanate (HMDI) and hydrogenated diphenylmethane diisocyanate (MDI).

[0076] In addition, the above-mentioned crosslinking agent can be exemplified by Daedong Chemtech's WC-800. Here, Daedong Chemtech is the name of the manufacturer, and WC-800 is the product name.

[0077] The crosslinking agent crosslinks the first non-fluorine water repellent and the second non-fluorine water repellent to the surface of the fabric rather than simply applying or bonding them to the surface of the fabric, thereby ensuring that the non-fluorine water repellent adheres more firmly to the fabric and provides durability so that the non-fluorine water repellent is not easily damaged by external interference such as frequent washing or dry cleaning.

[0078] The above-mentioned water-repellent penetrating agent serves to facilitate the penetration of the non-fluorine water-repellent agent and promote cross-linking to the fiber; it is preferable to use volatile alcohol-based agents or higher fatty acid amide modified amines.

[0079] In addition, the above-mentioned water-repellent penetrating agent can be exemplified by Daedong Chemtech's WC-wet. Here, Daedong Chemtech is the name of the manufacturer, and WC-wet is the product name.

[0080] The drying step is a process for achieving a high-quality coating, and the dehydrated fabric is dried by passing it through eight drying chambers.

[0081] More specifically, the drying step may be a step of drying by passing the dehydrated fabric through a drying chamber under sequential drying conditions, maintaining it at a temperature of 130°C for 12 to 14 seconds, maintaining it at a temperature of 170°C for 12 to 14 seconds, and maintaining it at a temperature of 180°C for 24 to 32 seconds.

[0082] Meanwhile, when drying a dehydrated fabric, if the temperature is below 130℃, drying is not properly carried out, which has the disadvantage of reducing the adhesion of the water-repellent agent and lowering the high water-repellent properties. If the temperature exceeds 180℃, excessive drying causes heat drying in the fabric, which may result in the fabric becoming stiff to the touch. Therefore, setting the temperature between 130 and 180℃ is very important.

[0083] In the heat treatment step The low-melting-point polyester fibers melt, while the recycled polyester fibers and BCI cotton fibers do not melt, allowing them to maintain their shape and bond with other materials. In other words, by using low-melting-point polyester for thermal fusion purposes, there are no environmental pollution issues, and it exhibits excellent performance with high adhesive strength that persists even in water.

[0084] Due to these characteristics, blending low-melting-point polyester fibers allows the fabric's body texture to be expressed through heat treatment alone, without the need for an additional coating process.

[0085] Meanwhile, in the heat treatment step, the heat treatment condition may be maintained at a temperature of 150 to 190°C for 1 to 2 minutes. If the heat treatment temperature is below 150°C, it is difficult for the low-melting point polyester fibers to melt, so there is a risk that the melt adhesion will be reduced. If the heat treatment temperature exceeds 190°C, excessive melting of the low-melting point polyester fibers may occur, resulting in excessive melt adhesion and damage to the fabric.

[0086] Thus, through the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to one embodiment of the present invention, a coating-free eco-friendly fabric with body and water-repellent properties can be obtained for outerwear.

[0087] In addition, the above-mentioned coating-free eco-friendly fabric satisfies grades 3 to 4 of wash fastness according to the KS K ISO 105-C06 test standard and can satisfy ±3% of shape stability according to the KS K ISO 6330 test standard.

[0089] Example 1. Preparation of Coating-Free Eco-Friendly Fabric 1

[0090] S100: First, 150D / 576F recycled polyester drawtexture yarn (hereinafter, 150D / 576F DTY) was prepared.

[0091] S200: Next, a 20's / 1 silo spun yarn was prepared using 1.5D recycled polyester fibers, 2D low-melting point polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers through a silo-compact spinning process.

[0092] In addition, during the blending process in the silo-compact spinning process, 1.5D recycled polyester fibers, 2D low-melting point polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers were mixed to satisfy weight ratios of 62:3:35, 59:6:35, and 55:10:35. That is, the content of 2D low-melting point polyester fibers can be 3%, 6%, or 10% by weight relative to 100% by weight of the prepared silo-spun yarn.

[0093] S300: Next, 150D / 576F DTY was used as the warp and siro spun yarn was used as the weft to obtain a fabric having a PLAIN structure, WT MATT structure, or SOLAR TWILL structure through a weaving process.

[0094] S400: Next, the surface was polished through a polishing process to maintain the surface smoothness of the obtained fabric.

[0095] S500: Next, the polished fabric was dyed using a dye solution containing colored dye, a dispersant, an ammonium sulfate, a bath softener, and distilled water.

[0096] S600: Next, the dyed fabric was heat-treated at a temperature of 150–190°C for 1–2 minutes to obtain a coating-free eco-friendly fabric (Example 1).

[0097] Specifically, in the S600 step, the dyed fabric is placed in a water-repellent bath and impregnated with a coating composition, then dehydrated with a roller at a pickup rate of 55%, and the dehydrated fabric is passed through a drying chamber under sequential drying conditions of maintaining a temperature of 130°C for 12 to 16 seconds, maintaining a temperature of 170°C for 12 to 16 seconds, and maintaining a temperature of 180°C for 24 to 32 seconds, and the dried fabric is heat-treated at a temperature of 150 to 190°C for 1 to 2 minutes.

[0098] - Composition of the coating composition -

[0099] Water: 1000ℓ

[0100] WR-800NF (No. 1 Non-fluorinated Water Repellent): 10g

[0101] ER-235 (Type 2 Non-fluorine Water Repellent): 60g

[0102] WC-800 (crosslinking agent): 15g

[0103] WC-wet (Water-repellent penetrating agent): 0.5g

[0105] Example 2. Preparation of Coating-Free Eco-Friendly Fabric 2

[0106] The procedure was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, except that in step S200 of Example 1, preparing the spun yarn between 20's / 1 was replaced with preparing the spun yarn between 30's / 1 (Example 2).

[0108] Comparative Example 1. Manufacture of Coating-Free Eco-Friendly Fabric 3

[0109] The above Example 3 was carried out in the same manner as Example 1, except that in step S200 of Example 1, preparing one 20's / 1 silo spun yarn through a silo-compact spinning process using 1.5D recycled polyester fibers, 2D low-melting point polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers was replaced with preparing one 30's / 1 silo spun yarn through a silo-compact spinning process using 1.5D recycled polyester fibers and 2D low-melting point polyester fibers (Example 3).

[0110] In addition, during the blending process in the silo-compact spinning process, 1.5D recycled polyester fibers and 2D low-melting point polyester fibers were mixed to satisfy weight ratios of 97:3, 94:6, and 90:10.

[0112] Experimental Example 1. Visual Evaluation

[0113] In the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, the appearance of the swirl spun yarns prepared in Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 was observed, and the results are shown in FIG. 2.

[0114] FIG. 2 is a visual image of silo spun yarn according to Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1.

[0115] Referring to FIG. 2, it was confirmed that the silo spun yarn according to Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 is more compact, has fewer lint, and has a clean surface compared to conventional ring spun yarn and MVS spun yarn. In addition, there were almost no problems such as yarn breakage or clumping; however, it was confirmed that the silo spun yarn with a 2D low-melting point polyester fiber content of 10% exhibited relatively more pronounced yarn clumping than the silo spun yarn with a 2D low-melting point polyester fiber content of 3%.

[0117] Experimental Example 2. Microstructure Evaluation

[0118] In the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, in order to evaluate the microstructure of the fabric, the structure of the fabric according to Example 1 was observed using an optical microscope (OM), and the results are shown in FIG. 3.

[0119] Here, the fabric refers to the fabric obtained in step 300 of Example 1.

[0120] Figure 3 is an OM image of the fabric according to Example 1.

[0121] FIG. 3a) is a fabric having a PLAIN structure with a content of 3% 2D low-melting point polyester fibers according to Example 1, FIG. 3b) is a fabric having a WT MATT structure with a content of 3% 2D low-melting point polyester fibers according to Example 1, and FIG. 3c) is a fabric having a SOLAR TWILL structure with a content of 3% 2D low-melting point polyester fibers according to Example 1.

[0122] Referring to Fig. 3, it can be seen that the warp and weft maintain a strong and solid bonding structure with each other, and accordingly, it was confirmed that no twisting or warping of the fabric occurs.

[0124] Experimental Example 3. Evaluation of Body Sensation According to Heat Treatment Temperature

[0125] In the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, in order to evaluate the body feel of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric, the silo spun yarn according to Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 was heat-treated, and then the product's touch and body feel were evaluated by conducting evaluations with buyers and the in-house sales department, and the results are shown in FIG. 4.

[0126] Here, the fabric samples of prepared Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 have a PLAIN structure.

[0127] Figure 4 shows the heat setting evaluation results of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1.

[0128] Referring to Figure 4, the characteristics of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to the fabric blend ratio were analyzed. It was evaluated that as the content of low-melting point polyester fibers increased, the hardness of the fabric increased and the texture tended to become rougher, and the case where the content of low-melting point polyester fibers was 3% showed a body texture generally suitable for clothing.

[0129] Specifically, the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1, which has a 2D low-melting point polyester fiber content of 3% and a PLAIN structure and is heat-treated at 170~180°C for 1~2 minutes, the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2, which has a 2D low-melting point polyester fiber content of 3% and a PLAIN structure and is heat-treated at 170~180°C for 1~2 minutes, and the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Comparative Example 1, which has a 2D low-melting point polyester fiber content of 3% and a PLAIN structure and is heat-treated at 170~180°C for 1 minute, received a "very suitable" rating in the touch and body feel evaluation.

[0131] Experimental Example 4. Evaluation of shrinkage rate according to heat treatment temperature

[0132] In a method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, in order to evaluate the shrinkage rate of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric, silo spun yarns according to Example 1, Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 were heat-treated, and the shrinkage rate was evaluated by comparing the size of the fabric before heat treatment and the fabric after heat treatment, and the results are shown in FIGS. 5, 6 and 7.

[0133] In the shrinkage rate evaluation, a coating-free eco-friendly fabric sample was prepared that had a 2D low-melting point polyester fiber content of 3%, had a PLAIN structure, and was heat-treated at 150–190°C for 1–2 minutes.

[0134] Figure 5 is the result of evaluating the shrinkage rate of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1, Figure 6 is the result of evaluating the shrinkage rate of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2, and Figure 7 is the result of evaluating the shrinkage rate of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Comparative Example 1.

[0135] Referring to FIGS. 5, 6, and 7, it was confirmed that the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1, Example 2, and Comparative Example 1 exhibits greater shrinkage as the heat treatment temperature increases, and it was confirmed that the shrinkage rate in the warp direction is greater than that in the weft direction in terms of the fabric's orientation.

[0136] In addition, it was confirmed that warping due to thermal shrinkage was not significant and was not greatly affected by the heat treatment time.

[0137] This is because the melting of low-melting-point polyester fibers due to heat treatment occurs instantaneously, so the influence of shrinkage rate over time is not significant, and because the low-melting-point polyester fibers were mixed during the spinning stage, significant warping did not occur.

[0139] Experimental Example 5. Evaluation of Microstructure According to Heat Treatment Temperature

[0140] In the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, in order to evaluate the microstructure of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric, the structure of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2 and Comparative Example 1 was observed using a scanning electron microscope (SEM), and the results are shown in FIGS. 8, 9, 10, and 11.

[0141] For microstructure evaluation, a coating-free eco-friendly fabric sample was prepared that had a 2D low-melting point polyester fiber content of 3%, had a PLAIN structure, and was heat-treated at 150–190°C for 1–2 minutes.

[0142] In addition, the warp portion of the fabric was observed at 300x magnification, and the weft portion was observed at 800x magnification.

[0143] Figure 8 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2 under heat treatment conditions (untreated, 150°C, 160°C, 170°C), Figure 9 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 2 under heat treatment conditions (180°C, 190°C), Figure 10 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Comparative Example 1 under heat treatment conditions (untreated, 150°C, 160°C, 170°C), and Figure 11 is an SEM image of a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Comparative Example 1 under heat treatment conditions (180°C, 190°C).

[0144] Referring to Figures 8, 9, 10, and 11, the fusion pattern between yarns (warp, weft) due to the melting of low-melting point polyester fibers can be observed, and it was confirmed that as the heat treatment temperature increases, the amount of melting of low-melting point polyester fibers increases, and accordingly, the fusion area between yarns increases.

[0146] Experimental Example 6. Quantitative Characteristics Evaluation of Coating-Free Eco-Friendly Fabric

[0147] In the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention, in order to evaluate the characteristics of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric, a functional evaluation of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1 and Example 2 was performed, and the results are shown in FIG. 12.

[0148] Here, the functional evaluation includes water repellency, wash fastness, friction fastness (dry / wet), sweat fastness, light fastness, sublimation fastness, shape stability, tear strength, and slip resistance.

[0149] Figure 12 shows the results of the functional evaluation of the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Example 1 and Example 2.

[0150] Referring to FIG. 12, the coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to Examples 1 and 2 satisfies Grade 3 water repellency according to the KS K ISO 4920 test standard, Grades 3–4 wash fastness according to the KS K ISO 105-C03 test standard, Grades 3–4 / 3 friction fastness (dry / wet) according to the KS K ISO 105-X12 test standard, Grade 4 sweat fastness according to the KS K ISO 105-E04 test standard, Grades 3–4 light fastness according to the KS K ISO 105-B02 test standard, Grades 3–4 sublimation fastness according to the KS K 0651 test standard, ±3% shape stability according to the KS K ISO 6330 test standard, and according to the KS K ISO 13937-1 test standard It was confirmed that it satisfies a tear strength of 10N and a sliding resistance of 2Mm according to the KS K ISO 13936-1 test standard.

[0151] Thus, the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to an embodiment of the present invention can be applied to high-performance outerwear products that comply with the sustainable marketing policies of the global apparel industry by utilizing a new yarn composite technology to apply a non-fluorine water-repellent treatment method with excellent body feel and washing durability that can replace a novel coating touch without a separate coating process.

[0152] Specifically, by using low-melting-point polyester fibers to strengthen the bonding between materials, the body of the material can be expressed, and durable water-repellent functions can be achieved solely through the use of non-fluorine water-repellent agents, thereby avoiding the environmental pollution and human health hazards associated with conventional fluorine-based water-repellent coatings and offering the potential to overcome the limitations of existing eco-friendly processing technologies.

[0153] Although the method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to the embodiments of the present invention has been described above as a specific embodiment, this is merely an example and the present invention is not limited thereto, but should be interpreted as having the broadest scope in accordance with the basic concept disclosed in this specification. Those skilled in the art may implement unspecified embodiments by combining or substituting the disclosed embodiments, and this also does not deviate from the scope of the rights of the present invention. Furthermore, those skilled in the art may easily change or modify the embodiments disclosed based on this specification, and it is evident that such changes or modifications also fall within the scope of the rights of the present invention.

Claims

Claim 1 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric, comprising: a first preparation step of preparing a recycled polyester drawtexture yarn (DTY); a second preparation step of preparing a single siro-spun yarn through a siro-compact spinning process using recycled polyester fibers, low melting polyester fibers, and BCI cotton fibers; a weaving step of obtaining a fabric having a predetermined structure through a weaving process using the prepared recycled polyester drawtexture yarn as the warp and the prepared siro-spun yarn as the weft; a peach skin step of polishing the surface through a polishing process to maintain the surface smoothness of the obtained fabric; a dyeing step of dyeing the polished fabric using a predetermined dye solution; and a heat setting step of heat-treating the dyed fabric to obtain a coating-free eco-friendly fabric. Claim 2 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the first preparation step, the recycled polyester drawtexture yarn has a thickness of 140 to 160 denier (D) and comprises 550 to 600 filament strands. Claim 3 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the second preparation step, the silo-compact spinning process comprises: a blending process for obtaining a mixed raw material by mixing the recycled polyester fiber, the low-melting point polyester fiber, and the BCI cotton fiber in a predetermined weight ratio; a carding process for obtaining a sliver with a sliver weight of 350 to 450 g / 6yd by supplying the obtained mixed raw material to a carding machine; a drawing process for drawing the obtained sliver to a sliver weight of 300 to 400 g / 6yd and a D / R ratio of 6.5 to 8.0; and a spinning process for obtaining a sliver spun yarn by supplying the drawn sliver to a roving machine and obtaining the obtained roving yarn by supplying it to a silo spinning machine to obtain the silo spun yarn at a spinning speed of 230 to 300 mpm. Claim 4 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 3, wherein in the blending process, the previously set weight ratio satisfies the range of 54~66:2~10:32~36 in the order of recycled polyester fiber, low melting point polyester fiber, and BCI cotton fiber. Claim 5 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the second preparation step, the recycled polyester fiber has a thickness of 1 to 2 denier (D) and the low melting point polyester fiber has a thickness of 1.5 to 2.5 denier (D). Claim 6 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the second preparation step, the silo spun yarn is a silo spun yarn of 20 to 30's / 1 and the silo spun yarn has a yarn strength of 2.2 to 2.75 g / d. Claim 7 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 1, wherein, in the weaving step, the previously set fabric is any one of the fabrics selected from the group consisting of PLAIN fabric, WT MATT fabric, and SOLAR TWILL fabric. Claim 8 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 1, wherein the heat setting step comprises: a water-repellent step of placing a dyed fabric into a water-repellent bath and immersing it in a pre-prepared water-repellent composition, followed by dewatering it using a roller; a drying step of drying the dewatered fabric in a drying chamber at a drying temperature of 130 to 180°C and a processing speed of 20 to 40 m / min; and a heat treatment step of heat-treating the dried fabric at a temperature of 150 to 190°C for 1 to 2 minutes. Claim 9 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric, wherein, in the water-repellent step, the water-repellent composition comprises 9 to 11 parts by weight of a first non-fluorine water-repellent agent, 54 to 66 parts by weight of a second non-fluorine water-repellent agent, 10 to 20 parts by weight of a crosslinking agent, and 0.3 to 0.7 parts by weight of a water-repellent penetrating agent per 1 liter of water, wherein the first non-fluorine water-repellent agent comprises a urethane-based water-repellent agent and the second non-fluorine water-repellent agent comprises an acrylic-based water-repellent agent. Claim 10 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 9, wherein the weight ratio of the first non-fluorine water-repellent agent and the second non-fluorine water-repellent agent is 1:

6. Claim 11 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 10, wherein the drying step is a step of drying by passing the dehydrated fabric through a drying chamber under sequential drying conditions of maintaining the temperature at 130°C for 12 to 16 seconds, maintaining the temperature at 170°C for 12 to 16 seconds, and maintaining the temperature at 180°C for 24 to 32 seconds. Claim 12 A method for manufacturing a coating-free eco-friendly fabric according to claim 1, wherein the coating-free eco-friendly fabric satisfies washing fastness grades 3 to 4 according to the KS K ISO 105-C06 test standard and shape stability ±3% according to the KS K ISO 6330 test standard.

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