Method for processing and assembling the sides of a multilayer product

Abstract

FIELD: clothing industry.SUBSTANCE: method consists in the following: in order to ensure dimensional stability, a polymer paste is applied after joining the parts of the fronts and ironing or pressing the stitches, or before joining the parts of the fronts, interlining is glued to the parts of the fronts, the edges of the sides are trimmed with facings while simultaneously laying a strip of cotton fabric, after ironing the edges of the sides, an insulating lining is fastened to a strip of cotton fabric along the sides, fastened to the edge of the side during its trimming, the facings are attached to the insulating lining with fixing the piping along the entire length of the edge of the sides, the lining of the fronts is connected to the inner edge of the facings with a stitched or overlay stitch, the layers of the fronts and the back are fastened along the contour with a self-removing thread, after which the side stitches of the product are connected.EFFECT: method for processing and assembling the sides of a multilayer product, aimed at simplifying the method while simultaneously increasing the service life of the product, improving manufacturability and unifying the method.5 cl, 4 dwg

Description

[0001] The invention relates to the sewing industry, in particular, to a method for processing and assembling the sides of a multilayer product while ensuring the dimensional stability of the shelves.

[0002] Finishing the lapel is the most labor-intensive part of outerwear, accounting for 20-25% of the total labor required to complete the garment. Various methods are used. The chosen finishing method determines the quality of the garment, specifically its fit, lapel position, and lapel placement in the finished garment.

[0003] Furthermore, facing is one of the most critical manufacturing processes, as the garment's appearance depends on its precise execution. The quality of these processes is influenced by the size and correct distribution of the facing, which depends on both the physical and mechanical properties of the materials being processed and the garment's design.

[0004] The improvement of the side processing is influenced by the use of precise cutting, technological design of the product, as well as more advanced assembly of the product.

[0005] A known method for processing and assembling the sides of a multi-layered garment, namely a women's jacket [Koroleva L.A. Sewing Technology. Laboratory Workshop. Vladivostok State University of Economics and Service; - Vladivostok: - 2021], is performed as follows:

[0006] - duplicate the shelf parts with an adhesive interlining (doublerin). The interlining of the middle part of the shelves lags behind the edge of the side by 15...20 mm;

[0007] - sweep the parts of the shelves by hand, distributing the fit of the side part of the shelves;

[0008] - sew the parts of the shelves on a universal machine, stitch the relief seams with a finishing stitch;

[0009] - remove the temporary stitching line for the shelf parts;

[0010] - iron the seams of the shelves:

[0011] - baste the side edges of the shelves and back by hand;

[0012] - sew the side edges of the shelves and back on a universal machine;

[0013] - remove the temporary stitching of the side cuts of the shelves and back;

[0014] - fold the parts along the center line of the back, aligning the upper edges of the product, the seams of the shelf parts, the side pockets, the side edges of the shelves, placing them on the industrial table with the right shelf on top, the side edge to the left of the worker;

[0015] - specify the length and width of the jacket;

[0016] - cut the jacket along the side line and the bottom line;

[0017] - lay an adhesive edge along the side of the shelves and partially along the hem line of the bottom of the shelves, similar to a linen edge;

[0018] - baste the facings onto the sides of the shelves, distributing the fit;

[0019] - iron the fit of the facings;

[0020] - trim the side panels on a universal machine;

[0021] - trim the facing seam with facings, leaving a seam allowance of 3...4 mm;

[0022] - turn the sides to the front side, manually sweep the piping along the side line;

[0023] - iron the jacket sides, aligning the piping, stitch the sides and the bottom of the jacket with a finishing stitch;

[0024] - remove the stitching line for the edges of the sides;

[0025] - stitch the side edges of the lining of the product;

[0026] - stitch the jacket lining to the inside edge of the facings and the bottom of the garment, adjusting the fit in the chest area; turn the jacket right side out, smoothing out the lining.

[0027] Thus, the facings are processed and assembled after duplicating the front sections and fastening them together, as well as fastening the side edges of the fronts and back. The facings and hem are then refined and trimmed to match the garment model, and finishing of the facings begins. The lining is joined to the inside edge of the facings after the lining is joined along the side seams.

[0028] The model of women's jacket in question indicates that the product has the features characteristic of this model, including:

[0029] - the volume of the front panels is achieved by a structural method, therefore, a semi-wool fabric with a high percentage of synthetics or a synthetic fabric is used; the type of fabric used is also confirmed by securing the edge of the sides, collar, bottom of the product and the bottom of the sleeve with a finishing stitch;

[0030] - the model has a small allowance for a free fit and is made to fit the figure, this is evidenced by the absence of a lightweight side lining, typical for women's products to give the product shape [Laboratory workshop on the technology of garments: Textbook. manual for universities / Melikov E.Kh., Zolottseva L.V., Murygin V.E. et al. - 2nd ed., revised and enlarged - M .: Legprombytizdat, 1988. - 272 p.: ill. P. 161, paragraphs 1 and 3];

[0031] - both parts of the shelves are completely duplicated with interlining (fabric with an adhesive coating), since the product is subject to various loads during operation, therefore, both the parts and their cuts must be reinforced, while the interlining can withstand both loads and works well under tension [https: / / vk.com>wall - 7956710_8423. Adhesive fabric and non-adhesive materials What is it for... (Dec 29, 2015)];

[0032] - interlining has a warp thread, like the main fabric of the product, while the interlining parts are cut in the direction of the warp thread, corresponding to the direction of the warp thread of the main material in order to withstand various loads [https: / / burdastule.ru>tkani>OSNOV… How to choose the right interlinings for sewing];

[0033] - when manufacturing a product, in order to maintain the obtained shape, as well as to secure the side cut of the side lining along the sides, an edge is laid [Laboratory practical training on the technology of garments. M., "Light industry", 1977. 272 ​​p. p. 167, paragraph 3 and paragraph 4], but in this model the shape is obtained by a constructive method, there is no side lining of the product, also in the model the shape stability of the side cut is created by combining the warp thread of the interlining and the warp thread of the main material of the product. In addition, the product is made of semi-wool fabric with a high synthetic content, which allows the material to hold the shape given to the product well [https: / / tessuti-ital.ru>news>tkani-… Architectural cut: fabrics that hold their shape (18 Feb 2019)], therefore, an edge is not needed in this model.

[0034] However, during the processing of the jacket, an adhesive edge is laid along the lapels (the lining is cut smaller than the main part of the garment). When manufacturing a jacket from materials with a high content of synthetic fibers, duplicated with interlining, overcasting the edge of the lapels without an edge is allowed even in men's garments [Laboratory practical training on the technology of garments. Moscow, "Light industry", 1977. 272 ​​p. p. 169, paragraph 2, table 7.4], since the grain of the interlining parts coincides with the grain of the main fabric.

[0035] It's also important to remember that heat-treated hot-melt materials become stiffer, which means the likelihood of the interlining cutting showing through to the outer surface of the garment increases in this model. Consequently, with all the excesses allowed, not only does the quality decrease, but the time required to process the edges also increases.

[0036] The disadvantages of this method are the use of a temporary joint before sewing a particular seam when finishing the edge of the lapels, which can be allowed when organizing the educational process; the use in this model of an adhesive interlining of the front, cut along the warp thread (like the front of the main fabric), which does not fall under the stitching of the fastening of the front with the facing, causing it to lie on the front surface of the upper fabric. There is no justification for the use of an adhesive edge along the front and its laying according to the principle of a linen edge, contributing to increased labor costs; in addition, the use of processing the edge of the jacket lapels after joining the side cuts of the front and the back.

[0037] The advantage of this method is the compliance of the jacket assembly technology with the intended model and the fabric used. Specifically, the front panels are not lined, as the jacket model is designed with small allowances for a loose fit; finishing stitches are used along all connecting seams of the garment's parts and along its edges, as the fabric used in sewing the jacket has a synthetic content of approximately over 60%.

[0038] A method is known for processing and assembling the lapels of a multi-layered product (men's and women's coats), which is performed in a more advanced manner, namely, an additional strip of fabric is used, the assembly of the product is changed with an insulating lining and / or lining, reducing the turning of the product both during the processing and assembly of the lapels, and during the assembly of the product [Patent RU No. 2151533, class A41D 3 / 00, published 06 / 27 / 2000. Bulletin No. 18].

[0039] After preparing and processing the shelves and back, fastening them along the side cuts, perform the following:

[0040] - clarification and trimming of the edges of the sides and bottom of the product in accordance with the model;

[0041] - align and fasten the facings to the sides with metal clips, distributing the fit of the facings using a pneumatic fastener;

[0042] - facing the edges of the facings, including interlining, using a machine of type 297 class PO "Promshveymash", which, with the help of the upper and lower fabric feed mechanism, a separating plate that separates the fabrics being sewn under the foot, a knife for trimming the fabric on the allowances and a device for step-by-step trimming of the fabric allowance on the seam when processing the facings "in a clean edge", regulates the fit of the facings, placing a strip of cotton fabric on the side of the facings;

[0043] - remove the excess formed from the seam allowances of the facings;

[0044] - secure the facing seam from the side of the lower part with a stitch, stitching onto the facing seam allowance (for example, the stitch is done along the facings, fastening the seam allowances to the facings when processing the edge “in a clean edge”), ensuring the straightening and thinning of the seam;

[0045] - sweep the edges of the lapels, forming a piping up to 2 mm from the side of the shelves in the area of ​​the facings, from the side of the facings - in the area of ​​the lapel, iron the edges of the lapels, temporarily fixing the piping (when using thick or elastic fabrics).

[0046] Using a strip of cotton fabric changes the sequence of fastening the insulating lining to the product, switching the load from the inner edge of the facings to the edge of the sides, which can withstand a breaking load from 150 daH to 190 daH (confirmed by the author's research), improves the thermal insulation properties of the product and provides the ability to fix the piping using the fastening of the facings with the insulating lining, and also increases the efficiency of the method during further processing of the product, eliminating the need to turn the product inside out, finish stitching seams, etc.

[0047] The disadvantages of this alternative are that removing the staples used to temporarily attach the facings to the lapel can lead to the destruction of the fabric (material) structure, depending on their properties; a stitch made parallel to the stitching that attaches the facings to the lapel (when finishing the lapel with a "clean edge") also does not ensure the fixation of the lapel piping, which has been confirmed by research using this method. In this case, an additional stitching line is required to attach the facings to the garment or adhesive fastening when finishing the lapel with a "clean edge", which prevents the facings from shifting.

[0048] The advantage of this analogue is the possibility of using more advanced methods of increasing the dimensional stability of the front panels (paste, mesh) without limiting the options for processing the edge of the facings ("in a clean edge" using a stitch, using an adhesive method or with a finishing stitch); changing the sequence of fastening the insulating lining to the product, switching the load from a strip of fabric pre-stitched onto the interlining or from the inner edge of the facings to the edge of the facings, which withstands a breaking load from 150 daH to 190 daH (confirmed by the author's research); increasing the efficiency of assembly, facilitating the process of processing and assembling the edge of the facings, as well as the entire product during its further processing, excluding turning the product inside out, finishing seams, etc.

[0049] A method is known for processing and assembling the sides of a multi-layered product (men's coat) [Pershina L.F., Petrova S.V. Sewing production technology. Moscow: Legprombytizdat, 1991. - 416 p.], which is carried out after duplicating the parts of the shelves, fastening them, as well as fastening the side cuts of the shelves and the back, after which the following technological operations follow:

[0050] - clarify and trim the edges of the sides and bottom, in accordance with the product model;

[0051] - align and fasten the facings to the sides with metal clips; trim the sides with the facings using a machine with upper and lower fabric feed mechanisms, as well as with a separating plate that separates the fabrics being sewn under the foot, adjusting the fit of the facings;

[0052] - remove the excess seam allowances formed by the facing seam and secure the facing seam from the side of the lower part with a stitch, stitching onto the facing seam allowance (for example, stitching is done along the front, securing the seam allowances with the front - in the lapel area when processing the facings "in the clean edge"), ensuring the piping is secured (p. 34, para. 6);

[0053] the seam of the facing of the sides is swept out by machine, the sides are ironed on a press, finally fixing the shape of the sides and securing the straightened piping (p. 140, para. 8), but, as it turns out during the use of the product, ironing the sides does not provide sufficient stability of the piping along the edge of the sides (p. 141, para. 2), for this purpose a hemming stitch is used, fastening the seam allowance with the lower part, or a fluffing stitch, when using which the inner layers of the material are fastened after sweeping the piping along the edge of the sides (p. 34, para. 8)

[0054] The advantage of this analogue is the use of more advanced stitching machines, which improve the quality of fastening of the facings to the lapel, while eliminating the temporary joining of any seams (with rare exceptions); the use of a press for ironing the seam fastening the facings to the lapel (when using thick fabric) to improve the quality of finishing the edge of the facings and more even formation of the piping along its entire length, as well as the use of various stitches (hemming, fluffing) to securely fix the piping of the edge of the facings.

[0055] Disadvantages of this method - laying the adhesive edge along the edges of the facings contributes to an increase in the breaking load of the facing edge to 190 daH (confirmed by the author), despite the fact that during use the edge of the facings is mainly exposed to impact loads; removing the staples used to temporarily attach the facings to the lapel can lead to the destruction of the fabric (material) structure; ironing the edge of the facings gives the facings their shape, but this technological method does not contribute to the preservation of the fixed piping; a stitch made parallel to the stitching of the facings to the lapel (when processing the facings "in the clean edge") is also insufficient to fix the piping of the facings (confirmed by the author's experiment). At the same time, additional stitches are needed to prevent the facings from shifting, which are used in the method of this analogue, but they are not linked to the improvement of the processing of the edge of the product's facings, as well as with the improvement of the assembly method of the product.

[0056] The closest to the claimed object in technical essence and the achieved result is the method of processing and assembling the sides of a multi-layer product (men's coat) [Reut T.N., Kontorer R.B., Kochanova A.I. Technology of manufacturing garments according to individual orders: Textbook for secondary specialized educational institutions - 2nd ed., revised and enlarged. Moscow; Legprombytizdat, 1989. - 320 p.], which is performed as follows:

[0057] - sew a strip of fabric (calico, coarse calico) onto the adhesive backing of the shelves (Fig. 1, line 1) along the marked line;

[0058] - duplicate (fasten the adhesive pad to the shelf parts) the shelves, ensuring their dimensional stability, the cuts of the adhesive pads should enter the seams of the connection of the parts by 1...3 mm;

[0059] - fasten the shelves (in a men's coat, jacket) with the side lining to ensure greater dimensional stability of the shelves, while it is possible to use additional layers of side lining;

[0060] - fold the right and left shelves, aligning the cuts, and shallow the lapel and lapels in accordance with the model (in men's products, shallow the left shelf, in women's products, shallow the right one);

[0061] - cut the shelves along the marked line;

[0062] - lay the edge if provided by the model;

[0063] - fasten the facings to the sides of garments (Fig. 1, line 2) made from plain-dyed fabrics using a special machine (type 297 class PO "Promshveymash", to form the required fit on one of the stitched parts) without preliminary basting (sometimes with manual basting), using precise cutting; in garments with a sewn-on lining along the bottom, the lower corners of the garment are stitched simultaneously with the facings;

[0064] - trim the seam in the corners and iron the seam: when processing the sides "in a clean edge" along the entire seam, the allowances are trimmed on the side of the facings to 10...12 mm, on the side of the shelf - to 3 mm; when processing the sides with a "finishing stitch", both seam allowances are trimmed to 3...4 mm;

[0065] - sew the piping along the lapel and sides using a special machine, type 530 class, from Strobel (Germany) (the machine has rollers that help form the piping) or manually using bias stitches, depending on the type of fabric;

[0066] - iron the sides on a press with universal pads, finally fixing the shape of the sides and securing the piping;

[0067] - when processing the sides “in a clean edge”, the seam that attaches the sides to the facings is secured, the stitching is done from the side of the shelf in the lapel area, from the side of the facings - in the area of ​​the sides (Fig. 1, line 3);

[0068] - the insulating lining of the product, connected along the side cuts, is fastened with a strip of fabric, previously stitched onto the adhesive lining of the shelves (Fig. 1, line 4) or fastened with the inner cut of the facings (simultaneously with the lining of the shelves), using a strip of fabric (Fig. 2), after connecting the processed shelves and the back of the top along the side cuts;

[0069] - the lining, joined along the side edges, is secured to the inner edges of the facings (Fig. 1, line 5) by attaching the seams where the lining is attached to the facings to the insulating lining (Fig. 1, line 6) of the garment. The insulating lining is then connected to the facings using a strip of fabric previously stitched onto the interlining. If the insulating lining is not previously connected to the facings, it and the lining are simultaneously connected to the inner edges of the facings using a strip of fabric (Fig. 2), with an adhesive web underneath.

[0070] The advantages of this method are as follows: the edges of the adhesive interlining of the fronts are included in the seams of the parts joining by 1...3 mm, preserving both the shape of the parts and the edges of the fronts; the fronts are folded, shallowed and trimmed along the lapel and fronts line in accordance with the model (in accordance with the designed shape) and the edge is laid (if provided for by the model) before stitching the side edges of the product; a stitch is used to secure the facings with the interlining from the lower loop to the bottom (p. 98, para. 4) in products without a finishing stitch, fixing the piping of the fronts; more advanced special machines are used for fastening the fronts to the fronts, as well as when sweeping the piping along the fronts of the product, improving the quality of fastening the fronts to the fronts and excluding the temporary joining of any seams (with rare exceptions).

[0071] The disadvantages of this method are that a strip of material is attached to the adhesive-coated shelf lining before it is fastened to the shelf, for subsequent attachment of the insulating lining to it, which does not have a long service life, that is, the bonding of the adhesive lining to the shelf is damaged, and consequently, its dimensional stability is damaged during mechanical intervention (dry cleaning, careless care of the product during use, the absence of a fastening line of the side seams of the lining with the side seams of the top of the product), when manufacturing a product without a finishing line along the edge of the sides, that is, when processing the sides "in a clean edge", additional attachment of the facings to the side lining of the shelves is performed in the area from the lower loop to the bottom (p. 98, para. 4), however, increasingly, when manufacturing the product, they switch to the use of a shortened side lining (p. 55, para. 2), which makes it impossible to use this lines;When attaching the insulating lining to the inner edges of the facings, the thermal insulation properties of the product are reduced due to the distance of the insulating lining from the edge of the facings; by ironing the edge of the facings, it is shaped, but, as practice shows, this technological method does not contribute to the fixation of the edging of the facings; when processing the edge of the facings, an edge is laid, if provided for by the model, without taking into account that this increases the breaking load of the facings to 190 daH (confirmed by research by the author of the application), but is exposed only to impact loads during use;When processing the lining "in a clean edge", the seam of facing the linings with the facings is secured to the shelf or facings, while the stitching, performed parallel to the stitching of the linings with the facings, makes the seam thinner, but, as practice has shown, also does not fix the piping of the linings during the use of the product, especially in the absence of a stitching of the side seams of the lining to the product (p. 127, para. 5), while an additional stitch is needed along the maximum length of the linings, fastening the facings with the insulating lining, preventing the facings from shifting; in addition, the assembly of the layers of the product (top, insulating lining, lining of the product) is performed after stitching the side cuts of the top of the product, causing a lot of turning out during assembly and fastening from the inside of the seams and layers of the product.

[0072] Also, the assembly using this method does not allow to facilitate (simplify): the techniques for performing many model features, including the processing of the internal fastener both from the side of the edge cut and from the side of the internal cut of the facings; it does not allow to improve the technological efficiency of processing the product units (sleeves, collar, fronts and back), while the technological efficiency of the product units is “overstretched” with the degree of readiness of the front and back assembly of the product; the assembly of the lining both with sewing the lining sleeves into the lining armhole (with incompletely stitched lining sleeve seams) and without sewing them in, and without stitching even the shoulder cuts of the lining (p. 125, para. 2) of the product, etc., which does not contribute to either the unification of the front processing or the technological efficiency of the process of manufacturing garment units.

[0073] The objective of the invention is to find a technical solution that demonstrates the influence of the bead treatment on the treatment of:

[0074] - shelves, preserving their dimensional stability and the strength of the bond of the interlining with the main fabric for 3...5 years of use or replacing the interlining, using another material without reducing the dimensional stability of the shelves, excluding the laying of the edge along the side line of the product, as well as increasing the heat-protective properties of the product, simplifying the working techniques of the product (ergonomics of its processing);

[0075] - for assembling the frame of the product, changing: methods of imparting dimensional stability to the shelves; the order and methods of fastening the side seams of a multi-layer product; fastening the insulating lining, lining with the parts of the product, eliminating multiple turnings and complex interceptions of the product, as well as excluding damage to important contours of the product (armholes, neckline, sleeve seam);

[0076] - to improve the technological efficiency of processing the main components of the product, creating parallel processing and unifying the product assembly process.

[0077] The invention is aimed at increasing the service life of a product using the proposed method by improving the dimensional stability of the shelves, increasing the heat-protective properties of the product and eliminating multiple turning and complex interceptions of the product, eliminating damage to the product while simultaneously simplifying the method, increasing the manufacturability and unification of the method.

[0078] This is achieved by the fact that in the method of processing and assembling the lapels of a multilayer product, which consists in processing the parts of the shelves to ensure their dimensional stability, connecting the parts of the shelves, processing the pockets, processing the shortened lining, connecting the shortened lining with the shelves, specifying the lapel cut of the shelves and trimming it in accordance with the model, trimming the edges of the lapels with facings “to a clean edge” or with a finishing line, trimming the seam of the facing of the lapels with facings in accordance with the processing “to a clean edge”, sweeping and ironing the edges of the lapels, according to the invention, to ensure dimensional stability, either apply a polymer paste after connecting the parts of the shelves and ironing or ironing the seams, or before connecting the parts of the shelves, glue the interlining to the parts of the shelves, trim the edges of the lapels with facings while simultaneously laying a strip of cotton fabric,After ironing the edges of the sides, fasten the insulating lining with a strip of cotton fabric along the sides, fastened to the edge of the side when it is turned, attach the facings to the insulating lining with the piping fixed along the entire length of the edge of the sides, connect the lining of the fronts with the inner edge of the facings with a stitched or overlay seam, fasten the layers of the fronts and the back along the contour with a self-removing thread, after which connect the side seams of the product.

[0079] It is advisable to apply the polymer paste to the shelves in the form of stripes along or across the base of the fabric, or at an angle to the base of the fabric.

[0080] The lining of the front panels is connected to the inner edge of the facings with a stitched or overlay seam, edging the stitched seam or the inner edge of the facings before stitching it onto the lining of the front panels.

[0081] It is advisable to baste the layers of the shelves and back with a self-removing thread along the contour at a distance of 80...100 mm.

[0082] It is advisable to fasten the side cuts of the product layers with a complex seam.

[0083] Fig. 1 shows the processing of the side and the connection of the insulating lining, the lining with the top of the product along the sides, using a strip of fabric, previously fastened with the adhesive lining of the shelf (line 1), after fastening the side cuts of the layers of the product in a manner that is the closest analogue;

[0084] in Fig. 2 - processing the side panel and connecting the insulating lining of the shelf (U floor), the lining of the shelf (D floor) with the top of the product (A) along the sides, using a strip of fabric (T cotton) and an adhesive web (A kl / put), fastened with the inner cut (A pdb) of the facings to attach the seam of the facings to the adhesive lining (A kl / pr) of the shelf after fastening the side cuts of the layers of the product;

[0085] in Fig. 3 - processing of the sides and the proposed method of connecting the insulating lining to the top of the product, bringing it closer to the edge of the sides, using a strip of fabric when stitching the sides with facings (lines 2 and 3); connecting the lining to the inner cut of the facings with a stitched seam (line 5) with subsequent edging of the seam (line 6). In this case, line 1 in Fig. 3 is the connection of the parts of the shelves with a stitched seam according to the proposed method for the subsequent application of polymer paste, and line 4 is the attachment of the facings to the insulating lining, facilitating the fixation of the piping of the edge of the sides along its entire length;

[0086] Fig. 4 shows a fully formed outerwear product made from coat fabric using the proposed technology for processing and assembling the side of a multilayer product from the lining side.

[0087] The proposed method for processing and assembling the side of a multilayer product is carried out in the following technological sequence:

[0088] Connect the parts of the shelves with a stitched seam (see Fig. 3, line 1) before or after giving the shelf parts shape stability, depending on the surface density or nap of the fabric:

[0089] - if the parts of the shelves are ground down to give the parts shape stability, ensuring the efficiency of processing both the shelves and the product as a whole, then the stitched seams are pressed apart (ironed) (Fig. 3, line 1), a polymer paste is applied to the shelves in the form of stripes either along the base or across the base, or at an angle to the base, depending on the required degree of shape stability;

[0090] - if the shelf parts are stitched together after the pieces have been given shape stability, then the shelf parts are duplicated, then the shelf parts are connected with a stitched seam, and the seams are ironed apart (Fig. 3, line 1).

[0091] Then process the pockets, if the model includes them.

[0092] Process the shortened side gasket, connect the shortened side gasket to the shelves.

[0093] Refine the line of the lapels and lapel according to the pattern before stitching the side cuts of the top of the product, trim the lapels of the shelves along the marked line.

[0094] Trim the edge of the front facings, which have undergone shaping with either a polymer paste or interlining, with facings (Fig. 3, line 2), placing a strip of material (cotton fabric, a strip of non-woven material, etc.) underneath. When processing the facings "to the clean edge" using a stitch, then (after trimming the facing seam), stitch the facing seam onto the fronts (in the lapel area) and onto the facings (in the facing area) - Fig. 3, line 3, thinning the seam allowances.

[0095] Sweep the piping along the edge of the sides, iron the sides, thinning their edges.

[0096] Connect the insulating lining of the shelves with the top of the shelves before stitching the side cuts of the insulating lining and the side cuts of the top of the product, fastening the insulating lining with a strip of fabric (Fig. 3, line X), which is connected to the cut of the side panels of the shelf when it is trimmed with facings, increasing the heat-insulating properties of the product and ensuring the use of a more advanced and economical method of imparting dimensional stability to the shelves, which is not damaged during further processing of the product and during the use of the product.

[0097] Attach the facings to the insulating lining (Fig. 3, line 4), fixing the edge of the facings at the stage of processing the facings.

[0098] Sew the front lining to the inside edge of the facings according to the pattern using either a stitched seam (Fig. 3, line 5) or an overlock stitch before stitching the side edges of the lining. When using a stitched seam, the lining attachment seam is overlocked (Fig. 3, line 6); when using an overlock stitch, first overlock the inside edge of the facings, and then stitch the overlocked edge of the facings to the front lining.

[0099] The layers of the fronts are swept along the contour with a self-removing thread at a distance of 80...100 mm from the edge of the layers of the fronts before they are fastened both to the side cuts of the layers of the back of the product and to the cuts of the layers of the sleeve caps and collar, which disappears during the processing of the product.

[0100] This processing of the side panels of the shelves results in a unified processing of the panels, which can be processed in parallel with all other units of the product (back, sleeves, collar), without changing one technique for another and back when fastening the insulating lining and / or lining to the top of the panel or back, which is especially important in the mass production of clothing [Unification, translated from Latin, means bringing something to uniformity, to a single system and form; reducing the diversity of something / https: / / scieceforum.ru>20119\article\… Unification of products as a standardization method and examples of its use - Student...].

[0101] The proposed method of processing and assembling the collar reduces the number of knots in the garment by eliminating those associated with processing the garment layers (preparing the insulating lining, lining along the side and shoulder seams), simplifying the process of fastening the insulating lining and / or lining to the front panel, bypassing their overall alignment with the garment frame (the frame is the fastening of the front and back panels along the side cuts). However, the number of knots in the main fabric is constant, and their processing is parallel to one another (one or another knot—front panel, back panel, sleeve, collar). Furthermore, the proposed assembly method eliminates the need to choose between the manufacturability of a particular garment component and the degree of assembly of the garment frame.

[0102] The proposed method of processing the lapel will simplify the implementation of certain model features, including processing the internal fastener both from the side of the lapel cut and from the side of the internal cut of the lapel.

[0103] By changing the processing of the edge of the side and the methods of fastening the insulating lining and / or lining to the shelf, it becomes possible to use a more effective method of imparting dimensional stability to the shelves (using paste, mesh), reducing the consumption of materials (threads - by 6 m; adhesive lining - by 0.4 sq. m per unit of product) and reducing the labor intensity of processing the side by 13.6% of its existing cost.

[0104] In addition, the use of the proposed method for processing and assembling the side of a multilayer product will ensure the achievement of the following positive results:

[0105] When assembling the product, the side cuts of all layers of the product will always be fastened using a complex seam, creating convenience during use of the product, namely, the lining will not inflate like a parachute when removing the product, and the lining will not “flow” through the sleeves, as is the case when using a product made in the method according to the closest analogue, in which it is necessary to pull the lining of the sleeves inside the product, picking up the lining from the inside of the product in the armhole area.

[0106] There is no need to use a large industrial table when preparing the product for chalking and trimming the edges of the product before turning them; the need for it arises when performing subsequent operations related to bringing the assembly of the product to the processing of the bottom of the product, while the assembly of the product mill is completely ready.

[0107] Using the proposed method reduces the number of product components. While assembly technology based on the closest analog results in 5-6 product components, the proposed method for processing and assembling the edge of a multilayer product leaves four "full-fledged" components, all of which are easily manufactured (fronts, back, sleeves, collar), eliminating twisting and complex interlacing during assembly of these components.

[0108] Thus, the use of the proposed method for processing and assembling the side of a multilayer product will allow, in comparison with the closest analogue, to increase the service life of the product by improving the dimensional stability of the shelves, increasing the heat-protective properties of the product, eliminating multiple turning and complex interceptions of the product, eliminating damage to the product, and also simplifying the method while simultaneously increasing the manufacturability and unification of the method.

Claims

1. A method for processing and assembling the sides of a multilayer product, which consists of joining the parts of the shelves, processing the pockets, processing the shortened side lining, joining the shortened side lining with the shelves, specifying the side cut of the shelves and trimming it in accordance with the model, then turning the edges of the sides with facings, trimming the facing seam of the sides with facings in accordance with the processing of the sides into a clean edge or with a finishing stitch, sweeping the sides and ironing the edges of the sides, while giving the parts of the shelves shape stability, characterized in that, in order to ensure shape stability, before joining the parts of the shelves, interlining is glued to the parts of the shelves or, after joining the parts of the shelves and ironing or pressing the seams of the connection, a polymer paste is applied,and when piping the edges of the sides with facings, a strip of cotton fabric is simultaneously laid and after ironing the edges of the sides, the insulating lining is fastened to the said strip of cotton fabric along the sides, the facings are attached to the insulating lining with the piping fixed along the entire length of the edge of the sides, the lining of the fronts is connected to the inner edge of the facings with a stitched or overlay seam, the layers of the fronts and the back are fastened along the contour with a self-removing thread, after which the side edges of the layers of the product are connected with a seam.

2. The method according to paragraph 1, characterized in that the polymer paste is applied to the shelves in the form of stripes along or across the base of the fabric, or at an angle to the base of the fabric.

3. The method according to paragraph 1, characterized in that the lining of the shelves is connected to the inner edge of the facings with a stitched or overlay seam, edging the stitched seam or the inner edge of the facings before stitching it onto the lining of the shelves.

4. The method according to paragraph 1, characterized in that the layers of the shelves and back are basted with a self-removing thread along the contour at a distance of 80-100 mm.

5. The method according to paragraph 1, characterized in that the side cuts of the layers of the product are fastened with a complex seam.

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