Heat-sensitive composition for hair fixation

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics industry.SUBSTANCE: composition for styling and fixing hair, intended for use in an aqueous environment, contains specific components in the following ratio, wt.%: gelatin – 50.0; water – 42.275; glycerin – 3.0; as well as non-specific components in the amount of 4.725 wt.%, including a pH regulator, a preservative and hair care additives.EFFECT: reliable fixation of hair in water at temperatures up to 30 °C, easy and complete removal from hair at temperatures above 40 °C, elasticity of the fixing coating, preventing it from cracking and allowing for the seamless weaving of decorative elements, as well as hair care.6 cl, 3 dwg, 3 tbl, 1 ex

Description

[0001] The invention relates to the cosmetics industry, specifically to hair styling and fixation compositions intended for use under conditions of intense and prolonged contact with aquatic environments. Such compositions are particularly in demand by athletes involved in synchronized swimming and other aquatic sports, which require a hairstyle that is water-resistant throughout the performance while maintaining an aesthetically pleasing appearance, particularly a so-called "mirror-like" shine.

[0002] In the professional synchronized swimming community, food-grade gelatin has been used as the primary fixative for many years, and in this context, it can be considered the closest analogue (prototype). This product was chosen due to its unique rheological properties: upon hardening, gelatin forms a hard yet brittle film that has high adhesion properties to hair, imparting a distinctive glossy shine. Critically important for aquatic sports is the insolubility of gelatin in water at temperatures typical of swimming pools (according to SP 2.1.3678-20, Appendix 4, the water temperature in synchronized swimming pools is 25-28°C), ensuring the preservation of the athlete's hairstyle throughout the entire period of the athlete's stay in the water.

[0003] However, the use of edible gelatin is associated with a number of significant drawbacks, both physiological and operational. First of all, the technology for preparing the working solution requires the use of water at a temperature close to boiling point, which is necessary for the complete dissolution of the gelatin granules. Applying such a hot solution to the scalp and hair inevitably leads to thermal discomfort and, in some cases, burns. Furthermore, the insolubility of hardened gelatin in cold and warm water, which is an advantage during performance, becomes a serious problem when removing the composition. Softening and partially removing the gelatin film requires several hours of exposure to hot water. Even after this, undissolved fragments often remain in particularly sensitive areas (temporal region, back of the head), forcing athletes to resort to mechanical removal, often along with the hair.The combination of thermal exposure during application and traumatic removal leads to serious hair damage: thinning of the hair shaft, increased breakage, and, in some cases, alopecia, indicating insufficient physiological compatibility with the product used. Furthermore, edible gelatin has an unpleasant odor that lingers on the hair throughout use, and the film it forms is characterized by low elasticity and a tendency to crack, which not only impairs the appearance of the hairstyle but also creates difficulties when weaving in decorative elements and hairpins necessary for complex hairstyles.

[0004] Thus, the technical problem solved by the present invention consists in creating a composition for hair styling and fixation, which, while preserving the positive properties of gelatin as a film-forming agent (reliable fixation in pool water and a mirror shine), would simultaneously eliminate the aforementioned disadvantages. In particular, it should have selective heat sensitivity, that is, maintain stability and fixing properties at temperatures typical of a pool and completely dissolve, easily removed from the hair, at temperatures corresponding to a comfortable shower; form an elastic film that is not prone to cracking and ensures the possibility of unhindered weaving of accessories; include caring components that prevent hair damage and promote its strengthening; and also have a pleasant aroma that masks the smell of the gelatin base.

[0005] Other gelatin-based compositions aimed at improving its film-forming properties are known in the prior art. For example, patent DE 1192370 B describes a product for creating long-lasting hairstyles containing modified gelatin—a product of degradation into polypeptides followed by treatment with a diisocyanate. This modification is intended to increase the elasticity of the film and overcome the brittleness of natural gelatin. However, this approach requires chemical modification of the gelatin itself, which complicates the technology and does not address the issue of heat sensitivity. In contrast, the claimed solution incorporates glycerin as a plasticizer, preserving native gelatin and achieving elasticity without chemical modification.

[0006] US Patent 5,601,812 discloses a hair thickening composition containing gelatin (0.30-15% by weight) in combination with a water-soluble film-forming polymer (polyvinylpyrrolidone or its analogs) and a neutralizing agent to maintain a pH in the range of 6.0-9.5. This product is intended to increase hair diameter and can be reactivated with water for re-styling. Despite the presence of gelatin, this composition does not provide selective heat sensitivity: it does not maintain fixation in pool water and is not removed when the temperature rises to 40°C. In addition, a pH above 6.5 can cause scalp irritation, while the claimed composition has a physiological pH of 5.5-6.5 due to the introduction of lactic acid.

[0007] Silicone compositions represent another trend. Patent RU 2401101 describes a hair styling product based on a silicone self-adhesive adhesive containing organosilicon resin and polydiorganosiloxane. The composition contains less than 0.5% by weight of water and is designed for rapid fixation without the use of an aqueous phase. However, this product is not intended for prolonged soaking in water, and its removal requires special means, rather than simply increasing the shower temperature.

[0008] A hair styling method, according to patent RU 2564025, uses polyorganosiloxanes with a specific structure. The method involves heating the hair to 50°C or higher to create a hairstyle, followed by cooling. While this solution provides hold, it does not solve the problem of preserving the hairstyle in cold water or rinsing it easily at a comfortable temperature.

[0009] Patent JP5467672B2 describes a gel-like hair styling agent containing cationic polymers (e.g., diallyldimethylammonium chloride-hydroxyethylcellulose) and film-forming polymers. This aqueous composition distributes well throughout the hair and exhibits temperature stability, but it lacks selective solubility at different temperatures and does not contain natural conditioning ingredients such as burdock, nettle, and chamomile extracts, panthenol, and silk proteins, which are included in the claimed composition.

[0010] Thus, the conducted analysis of the state of the art shows that none of the known solutions allows for the simultaneous achievement of the required combination of properties: reliable fixation in pool water, easy removal at shower temperature, elasticity of the film, the presence of caring components, a safe application temperature and a pleasant aroma, which confirms the relevance and novelty of the claimed technical solution.

[0011] The essence of the invention is to create a composition for styling and fixing hair, intended for use in an aquatic environment, which combines the film-forming properties of gelatin, which provide reliable fixation of the hairstyle and a characteristic “mirror” shine, with selective heat sensitivity, allowing the fixing properties to be maintained at temperatures up to 30°C, typical for swimming pools, and to completely dissolve at temperatures above 40°C, corresponding to shower conditions, which ensures easy and non-traumatic removal from the hair.

[0012] The composition contains specific components in the following quantitative ratio, by weight: gelatin - 50.0; water - 42.275; glycerin - 3.0; as well as non-specific components in a total amount of 4.725 wt.%, including a pH regulator, a preservative and hair care additives. Gelatin acts as the main film-forming agent, forming a strong but elastic film on the hair, resistant to water at temperatures up to 30 ° C. Water is a solvent, providing the necessary consistency for uniform application. Glycerin acts as a plasticizer, overcoming the main disadvantage of edible gelatin - brittleness and tendency to cracking of the formed film; thanks to glycerin, the film acquires elasticity, which eliminates cracking and facilitates the weaving of decorative elements and hairpins.

[0013] Lactic acid, acting as a pH regulator, maintains the composition's pH within a physiologically comfortable range of 5.5-6.5, preventing scalp irritation. A preservative, a mixture of propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, methylchloroisothiazolinone, and methylisothiazolinone, ensures the composition's microbiological stability during storage. Caring additives, including panthenol (1.0 wt%), hydrolyzed silk proteins (0.2 wt%), and extracts of burdock root, nettle leaves, and chamomile flowers (0.5 wt% each), provide moisturizing, strengthening, and restoration of hair, preventing damage. A fragrance additive (1.5 wt%) imparts a pleasant scent to the composition.

[0014] The key feature of the claimed composition is its selective heat sensitivity, which is ensured by the experimentally established ratio of gelatin, water and glycerin: at temperatures up to 30°C, the composition remains stable and does not dissolve, and at temperatures above 40°C, complete dissolution occurs, allowing the composition to be easily removed from the hair without mechanical action.

[0015] The technical result achieved by implementing the invention is that the composition for styling and fixing hair, intended for use in an aquatic environment, simultaneously ensures reliable fixation of hair in water at temperatures up to 30°C, easy and complete removal from hair at temperatures above 40°C, elasticity of the fixing film, preventing its cracking and allowing for the unhindered weaving of decorative elements, as well as hair care due to the presence of caring components that prevent damage and promote strengthening.

[0016] The technical result is achieved due to the fact that specific components are present in the following quantitative ratio, by weight%: gelatin - 50.0; water - 42.275; glycerin - 3.0, which, as has been established, is critical for the formation of a strong but elastic film with selective heat sensitivity, namely with a threshold of complete dissolution above 40 ° C. The introduction of glycerin as a plasticizer gives the film elasticity, preventing its cracking. The use of lactic acid as a pH regulator maintains pH in a physiologically comfortable range of 5.5-6.5, preventing scalp irritation. The introduction of a complex of caring additives, including panthenol, hydrolyzed silk proteins and extracts of burdock root, nettle leaves and chamomile flowers, provides protection, moisturizing, strengthening and restoration of hair. The use of a preservative guarantees the microbiological stability of the composition.The combination of the listed features in their precise quantitative expression allows us to obtain a composition possessing the stated properties and thereby achieve the specified technical result.

[0017] Example of implementation. Preparation of the composition

[0018] The hair styling and fixing composition is prepared as follows (based on 100 kg of finished product). 42.275 kg of purified drinking water is added to a jacketed reactor equipped with a stirrer and homogenizer. Stirring is started at 20-30 rpm and the water is heated to a temperature of 55-60°C. Once the specified temperature is reached, 3.0 kg of glycerin is added and stirring is continued until it is completely dissolved, visually monitoring for the disappearance of any unevenness.

[0019] Weigh 50.0 kg of gelatin into a separate, dry, clean container. Add the gelatin to the reactor in small portions, approximately 2.5 kg at a time (equivalent to 1 / 20 of the total amount), adding each subsequent portion only after the previous one has completely dissolved to avoid lumps and agglomerates. After adding the gelatin, stir the mixture at the same speed for 30-40 minutes, ensuring complete dissolution and a homogeneous solution. Then, run the homogenizer for 3-5 minutes at 30-40 rpm to break up any lumps and ensure a smooth composition. The mixture is then checked for homogeneity and the absence of gelatin lumps.

[0020] Next, turn on the cooling and reduce the temperature of the mass to 33-38°C. When this range is reached, turn off the stirrer and carefully, avoiding contact with the stirrer blades and the walls of the reactor, add the following components: 1.0 kg of panthenol, 0.2 kg of hydrolyzed silk proteins, 0.5 kg each of burdock root extract, nettle leaf extract, and chamomile flower extract, 0.4 kg of lactic acid (acting as a pH regulator), and 0.125 kg of a preservative, which is a mixture of propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, methylchloroisothiazolinone, and methylisothiazolinone. After adding these additives, resume stirring at 15-20 rpm and hold the mass for 15 minutes, ensuring complete dissolution of all ingredients. Then, at the same temperature (33-38°C), 1.5 kg of flavoring additive is added in a similar manner and stirring is continued for 20-30 minutes until the composition is completely homogeneous.

[0021] For quality control, a 100g sample is taken and the pH value is measured; it should be in the range of 5.5-6.5. A second 100g sample is also taken and visually compared with the reference sample for appearance, homogeneity, and the absence of foreign inclusions. If the specified parameters are met, the composition is considered ready and sent for packaging.

[0022] The resulting composition is a gel-like mass that, when applied to hair and dried, forms an elastic film that is resistant to water at temperatures up to 30°C. When the water temperature rises above 40°C, the film completely dissolves, easily removing from the hair without mechanical stress. This distinguishes this product from edible gelatin, which requires hours of combing. Thanks to the presence of glycerin, the film does not crack, maintains its integrity, and allows for comfortable weaving of decorative elements and hairpins. Caring ingredients—panthenol, hydrolyzed silk proteins, and plant extracts (burdock, nettle, chamomile)—help strengthen, moisturize, and restore hair, preventing damage and breakage with regular use.

[0023] Thus, the given example confirms the possibility of industrial production of the claimed composition using standard equipment and achieving the specified technical result.

[0024] Example of implementation. Selective thermosensitivity of the composition

[0025] To confirm the stated properties, experimental studies of the composition's solubility in water at various temperatures were conducted. The composition was applied in an even layer to pre-weighed 10 x 10 cm glass plates (layer thickness 1 mm, applied composition weight 1.00 ± 0.05 g) and to natural hair strands 20 cm long and weighing 2 g at a rate of 1 g per strand. The prepared samples were dried at room temperature (22 ± 2°C) for 30 minutes until a stable film formed, after which they were weighed to determine the exact dry film weight.

[0026] Tests were conducted in thermostatically controlled containers filled with distilled water at fixed temperatures of 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, and 45°C. Temperature was maintained with an accuracy of ±0.5°C. Specimens were completely immersed in water and held without stirring. Three parallel specimens were used for each temperature regime. Conditions were assessed after 5, 30, and 120 minutes of exposure.

[0027] For glass plates, after each time interval, the samples were removed, gently blotted with filter paper to remove surface water, then dried at room temperature to constant weight and weighed. The degree of dissolution was determined as the ratio of the mass of the dissolved portion of the film to the original mass, expressed as a percentage. This was done by comparing the mass of the dry coating before testing and the mass of the residue after exposure and drying.

[0028] For hair strands, a visual assessment of the coating's integrity was carried out and the time for complete removal was recorded with additional light stirring, simulating washing the hair.

[0029] The obtained data are presented in Tables 1 and 2.

[0030] Table 1. Quantitative indicators of composition dissolution after 5, 30 and 120 minutes of exposure in water at different temperatures (glass plates)

[0031] Water temperature, °C Holding time, min Residue weight, g (average) Degree of dissolution, % The nature of the remainder 20 5 1,02 0 The coating is intact and elastic. 30 1,01 1 The coating is intact and elastic. 120 1,00 2 The coating is intact, with slight surface swelling. 25 5 1,01 1 The coating is intact and elastic. 30 1,01 1 The coating is intact and elastic. 120 0,99 3 The coating is intact, with slight swelling. 30 5 1,01 1 The coating is intact and elastic. 30 0,99 3 The coating is intact, swelling is noted 120 0,95 7 The coating is softened but remains intact. 35 5 0,98 4 The coating is softened but remains intact. 30 0,85 17 The coating is softened and partially peeling off. 120 0,50 51 Significant destruction, fragmentation 40 5 0,78 24 Active softening 30 0,25 75 Individual fragments 120 0,08 92 Small residual fragments 45 5 0,45 55 Intensive softening 30 0,15 85 Rare small fragments 120 0,04 96 No coverage

[0032] Table 2. Visual changes and time of removal of the composition from hair

[0033] Water temperature, °C Coating condition after 5 minutes Coating condition after 30 minutes Coating condition after 120 min 20 No changes, full fixation No changes, full fixation No changes, full fixation 25 No changes, full fixation No changes, full fixation No changes, full fixation 30 No changes The coating is intact and the fixation is maintained. The coating is intact and the fixation is maintained. 35 The beginning of the coating softening The coating is softened, the fixation is weakened The coating is partially destroyed 40 Noticeable softening, slippery coating The coating is peeling off No coverage 45 Intensive softening, partial removal There is practically no coverage No coverage

[0034] As shown in Table 1, at temperatures of 20 and 25°C, the degree of dissolution of the composition does not exceed 3% even after 120 minutes, indicating almost complete film integrity. At 30°C, dissolution reaches 7% after 120 minutes, but the film maintains its integrity and holding properties, as confirmed by visual assessment (Table 2). These data correspond to swimming pool conditions, where the water temperature is 25-28°C, in accordance with sanitary standards, and confirm the composition's ability to reliably hold hair throughout the entire performance. Slight swelling at 30°C does not result in loss of adhesion or hold.

[0035] When the temperature rises to 35°C, progressive dissolution is observed: after 30 minutes - 17%, after 120 minutes - 51%, the film is significantly destroyed, fixation weakens, which characterizes this mode as transitional.

[0036] At 40°C, the dissolution rate reaches 24% after just 5 minutes, 75% after 30 minutes, and 92% after 120 minutes. Complete removal from hair occurs within 25-30 minutes with gentle agitation, which matches the conditions of a comfortable shower and allows for easy rinsing without mechanical stress.

[0037] At 45°C, dissolution is even more intense: 55% after 5 minutes, 85% after 30 minutes, and 96% after 120 minutes. The composition is removed from hair in 8-10 minutes, making rinsing quick and easy. After removing the composition at temperatures of 40°C and above, the hair was left without any traces of the coating.

[0038] Conducted studies confirm that the claimed composition exhibits selective heat sensitivity: at temperatures up to and including 30°C, it retains its fixative properties (dissolution rate no more than 7% after 120 minutes) and is water-insoluble, reliably holding hair in place in a swimming pool for a long time. At temperatures of 40°C and above, intensive dissolution occurs (dissolution rate over 24% after 5 minutes and over 75% after 30 minutes), allowing the composition to be easily and without mechanical removal from hair in the shower. Thus, the stated technical result is fully achieved.

[0039] Example of implementation. Evaluation of the performance properties of the composition by athletes

[0040] To confirm the composition's stated properties under real-world conditions, studies were conducted with a group of synchronized swimming athletes. Ten athletes aged 12 to 20, who regularly used edible gelatin to hold their hair in place during training and competitions, participated in the tests. The purpose of the tests was to subjectively evaluate the following parameters: hold quality in pool water, ease of removal of the composition after training, hair condition after use, and overall comfort while wearing the hairstyle.

[0041] Each athlete was given a composition prepared according to the example described above. The athletes applied the composition once during a pool workout (water temperature 26-27°C, duration 2-3 hours). After the workout, the composition was washed off in the shower at a comfortable water temperature (38-42°C) using regular shampoo. Immediately after the procedure, the athletes completed questionnaires, rating various parameters on a five-point scale, and also left comments.

[0042] The survey results are presented in Table 3.

[0043] Table 3. Results of the subjective assessment of the composition by the athletes (average scores for 10 participants, where 5 is excellent, 1 is unsatisfactory)

[0044] Evaluation parameter Average score Athletes' comments Quality of fixation during training 5,0 "My hair stays in place perfectly, even after 3 hours in water." No film cracking 4,9 "The crust is elastic and doesn't crack," "You can easily insert pins." Easy to remove in the shower 5,0 "It washes off easily in 10-15 minutes, no need to rub your hair," "Faster than edible gelatin." Hair condition after use 4,7 "Hair is soft and doesn't break," "There's no tight feeling like after gelatin."

[0045] All 10 athletes noted that the composition retained its hold throughout their pool workout, while the film remained elastic, did not crack, and did not cause discomfort when woven into decorative elements. After rinsing, their hair was soft and showed no signs of damage, indicating the beneficial effects of the conditioning ingredients.

[0046] Figures 1-3 show photographs illustrating the condition of hair and hairstyle before and after using the composition.

[0047] Thus, the subjective assessments of the athletes fully correlate with the objective data obtained in laboratory tests and confirm that the claimed composition has selective heat sensitivity: it reliably fixes the hairstyle in pool water at temperatures up to 30°C and is easily removed at temperatures above 40°C, while providing hair care and pleasant organoleptic properties.

Claims

1. A composition for styling and fixing hair, intended for use in an aqueous environment, characterized in that it contains specific components in the following ratio, wt.%: gelatin 50,0 water 42,275 glycerol 3,0, as well as non-specific components in the amount of 4.725 wt.%, including a pH regulator, a preservative and hair care additives.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it ensures the preservation of fixing properties and does not dissolve in water at a temperature not exceeding 30°C, has limited solubility in the temperature range from 30°C to 40°C and completely dissolves and is removed from the hair at a temperature not lower than 40°C.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains lactic acid in an amount of 0.4 wt.% as a pH regulator.

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that as a preservative it contains an equimolar mixture of propylene glycol, benzyl alcohol, methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone in an amount of 0.125% by weight.

5. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the caring additives include panthenol in an amount of 1.0 wt.%, hydrolyzed silk proteins in an amount of 0.2 wt.%, as well as extracts of burdock root, nettle leaves and chamomile flowers in an amount of 0.5 wt.% each.

6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-specific components additionally include a flavoring additive in an amount of 1.5 wt.%.

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