Cosmetic composition in form of cream for care of skin around eyes with signs of aging

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetics.SUBSTANCE: cosmetic composition in the form of a cream for the care of skin around the eyes with signs of aging, prone to the appearance of swelling and dark circles under the eyes. A cosmetic composition in the form of a cream for the care of the skin around the eyes with signs of aging contains PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acids; acetylated glycol stearate; caprylic / capric triglyceride; glycerin; butylene glycol; liposomal retinyl retinoate , including: caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerin, purified water, retinyl retinoate, phospholipids, ascorbic acid, Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, vitamin C; ceramide complex, which includes: purified water, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerin, hydrogenated lecithin, 1,2-hexanediol, sucrose stearate, ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide AS, ceramide NG, glycosphingolipids; ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, vitamin E, glucosyl hesperidin; horse chestnut extract , including: cyclodexrin, horse chestnut extract, hydroxyacetophenone; complex preservative, including: 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, xanthan gum, disodium EDTA, vitamin K1 oxide, butylated hydroxytoluene, palmitoyl tripeptide, fragrance, purified water.EFFECT: hydration and nourishment to the skin around the eyes, reduction of the number and depth of wrinkles, increase in skin elasticity and mitigation of puffiness and dark circles under the eyes.1 cl, 2 tbl, 4 ex

Description

[0001] The invention relates to the field of cosmetics and is a cosmetic composition in the form of a cream for caring for skin around the eyes with signs of aging, prone to the appearance of swelling and dark circles under the eyes.

[0002] Patch CN 120585713 A, issued September 5, 2025, discloses an eye cream that brightens dark circles under the eyes. The cosmetic composition is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 0.1-2 parts of eight treasures mulberry powder, 0.1-2 parts of sialic acid, 0.1-5 parts of caffeine, 0.01-1 part of glucosyl hesperidin, 0.01-2 parts of mulberry root bark extract, and 0.1-5 parts of botryin. The proposed cosmetic composition effectively improves microcirculation of the skin around the eyes, increases the elasticity of the skin around the eyes, and reduces hyperpigmentation, thereby visibly lightening dark circles under the eyes.

[0003] The source CN 110772463 A, dated 11.02.2020, describes a composition for restoring the skin around the eyes. According to the composition for restoring the skin around the eyes described in the present invention, the amount of added coffee extract is 0.1%-8%, the amount of added glucosyl hesperidin is 0.01%-4%, the amount of added ethyl ascorbic acid is 0.1%-8%, the amount of added acetyl tetrapeptide-5 is 0.003%-0.04%, and the amount of added Terminalia chebula extract is 0.01%-5% of the total weight of the composition for restoring the skin around the eyes.According to the composition for restoring the skin around the eyes described in the present invention, the composition for restoring the skin around the eyes further contains one or more components: a moisturizing component, a chelating agent and a preservative; the amount of the added moisturizing component, based on the total weight of the composition for restoring the skin around the eyes, is 1%-50%, preferably 1-25%, more preferably 1-20%; The amount of the added chelating agent is 0.01-1%, preferably 0.01-0.1%; and the amount of the added preservative is 0.1-1%.According to the composition for restoring the skin around the eyes presented in the present invention, the moisturizing agent contains one or more of the following components: 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, sorbitol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, trehalose, xylitol, erythritol, glyceryl polyether-26, β-glucan, methyl glucetol polyether-20, methyl glucetol polyether-10, erythritol, biosaccharide gum-1, betaine, rhamnose, oat β-glucan, acetyl glucosamine, polyethylene glycols, water-soluble oils, water-soluble silicone oils and sodium hyaluronate.

[0004] From the source EP 2649986 A2, 16.10.2013, an anti-aging cosmetic product is known, which has the effectiveness of a pharmaceutical product, but at the same time is devoid of its irritating or toxic effects. For this purpose, a new cream was created, which is essentially characterized by a variable content of from 0.01% to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a retinoic acid precursor, as defined in the attached claims, and from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the melatonin composition. Preferably, the retinoic acid precursor is retinaldehyde. Alternatively, it can be retinol or retinyl esters, such as retinyl retinoate, in a proportion of from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the proportion of retinaldehyde is from 0.05% to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Melatonin is preferably added in a proportion of 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably 0.5 to 1%. In a preferred embodiment, the composition also includes at least one anti-inflammatory agent other than melatonin, an antioxidant other than melatonin, and / or a vitamin. Preferably, the anti-inflammatory agent other than melatonin is an anti-inflammatory agent from the group consisting of licorice extract, aloe vera, alpha-bisabolol, azulene, and rosemary extract, and, more preferably, it is from the group consisting of aloe vera and licorice extract.

[0005] The cosmetic formula consists of retinaldehyde as the main substance, always combined with melatonin, an antioxidant that enhances the effect of retinaldehyde, and preferably from the following groups of substances which, given the synergistic effect of this activity, enhance the rejuvenating effect of retinaldehyde.

[0006] Patent CN 112353725 A, issued February 12, 2021, discloses an effective eye cream composition comprising, by weight, 3.0-7.0 parts of blueberry polyphenol, 1.0-2.5 parts of caffeine, 0.5-1.5 parts of glucosyl hesperidin, 2.0-5.0 parts of nicotinamide, 2.0-5.0 parts of liposomal ceramide, 1.5-4.0 parts of schizosaccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation product lysate, 1.0-3.0 parts of water-retaining magnetite, and 5.78-5.0 parts of polyquaternium. The invention is an effective composition in an eye cream that can be used for the prevention, first aid, and lightening of dark circles under the eyes caused by frequent all-night waking, high blood pressure, overthinking, lack of sleep, eye swelling, and the like.

[0007] From source CN 109568227 A, 04 / 05 / 2019, a gel for removing dark circles under the eyes is known, containing the following components in percentage by weight: 1% - 3% elderberry extract; glucosyl hesperidin 0.1-1%; 2-10% aloe extract; 0.1-0.5% bisabolol; 0.5-0.8% ceramide; 0.1-0.5% vitamin E; 0.5-5% bast oil; 21% - 5% biological polysaccharide gum; 0.1% - 0.6% carbomer; 0.05-0.25% hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate; 3% - 6% butanediol; 0.5-1% panthenol; 0.1-0.2% allantoin; 0.5-0.6% p-hydroxyacetophenone; 0.5%-0.6% 1,2-hexanediol; 0.05-0.1% EDTA-2 Na; 0.3-0.6% triethanolamine; pure water was added to 100%. Preferably, the elderberry extract used is an extract containing anthocyanidins ≥ 25% and flavones ≥ 5%. Preferably, glucosyl hesperidin is a water-soluble derivative of hesperidin, and hesperidin and glucose are linked together by enzymatic technology.Preferably, the aloe extract is aloe vera extract containing more than 20% aloin. The under-eye circle removal gel described in this invention improves blood circulation in the dry skin around the eyes, provides long-lasting hydration and nourishment, provides a comprehensive action, has a more pronounced therapeutic effect, is soft and comfortable, and is suitable for long-term use.

[0008] Patent CN 110772463 A, 11 / 02 / 2020, describes a composition for restoring the skin around the eyes, which contains, by weight, 0.1% - 8% coffee extract, 0.01% - 4% glucosyl hesperidin, 0.1% - 8% ethyl ascorbic acid, 0.003% - 0.04% acetyl tetrapeptide-5 and 0.01% - 5% arjuna tree extract. The composition for restoring the skin around the eyes according to the present invention further comprises one or a combination of two or more moisturizing agents, chelating agents and preservatives, wherein the amount of the added moisturizing agent is 1-50%, preferably 1-25%, and more preferably 1-20% of the total weight of the composition for restoring the skin around the eyes, and the amount of the added chelating agent is 0.01-1%, preferably 0.01-0.1%; the amount of the added preservative is 0.1-0.5%.The humectant includes one or a combination of two or more of the following: 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, sorbitol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, trehalose, xylitol, erythritol, glyceryl polyether-26, β-glucan, methyl glucitol polyether-20, methyl glucitol polyether-10, erythrulose, biogel-1, betaine, rhamnose, oat β-glucan, acetyl chitosamine, polyethylene glycols, water-soluble oils and fats, water-soluble silicone oils, and sodium hyaluronate. The chelating agent includes EDTA-2Na and / or EDTA-4Na. The preservative is at least one of the following: p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, sorbitan caprylate, benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, gluconolactone, sodium benzoate and ethylhexylglycerin.

[0009] Source CN 111973506 A, November 24, 2020, describes a composition capable of improving the appearance of wrinkles, dark circles, and puffiness under the eyes from all sides. The composition includes the following components in percentage by weight: propyl gallate 0.001% - 0.05%, epigallocatechin gallate 0.001% - 0.05%, diglucosyl gallate 0.001% - 0.05%, ash bark extract 0.01% - 3%, glucosyl hesperidin 0.01% - 5%, and palmitoyl tripeptide-50.001% - 0.05%.

[0010] Propyl gallate, a natural extract from galls, has strong antioxidant properties. It helps control inflammatory factors, stimulates lymphatic circulation, and promotes vasodilation.

[0011] Epigallocatechin gallate glucoside (EGCG), a component extracted from green tea, is the most powerful antioxidant polyphenol among green tea catechins and provides energy to the outermost epidermal cells for repeated division, differentiation, and enhanced activity. Effectively lightens melanin and reduces skin inflammation.

[0012] Diglucosyl gallic acid, produced by the glycosylation of oak leaves. Diglucosyl gallic acid, located before tyrosine, that is, when tyrosine is ready to be converted into melanin, prevents problems such as excess melanin caused by high tyrosinase activity. Diglucosyl gallic acid has four main effects on the skin: 1. has high oxidation resistance; 2. provides photoprotection to the skin; 3. controls skin inflammation; 4. inhibits the transfer of melanin into the skin. Effectively reduces dark circles under the eyes and reduces skin inflammation.

[0013] Ash bark extract contains esculin and ash glycoside, which effectively reduce capillary permeability. Esculin and ash glycoside have antioxidant activity and not only help protect capillaries but also prevent hemoglobin degradation, thereby reducing under-eye pigmentation.

[0014] Glucosyl hesperidin is a natural bioflavonoid extracted from orange peel and a water-soluble derivative of hesperidin. This invention allows the skin to feel warm by dilating capillaries and improving blood circulation, thereby overcoming the feeling of cold, pressure, and fatigue, restoring the radiance of tired skin. Glucosyl hesperidin also promotes skin metabolism, effectively reducing dark circles under the eyes, improving skin nutrition, and reducing inflammation. Specifically, the amount of glucosyl hesperidin added is 0.01% to 5%, preferably 0.01% to 4%, and more preferably 0.01% to 3% of the total weight of the eye skin repair composition. When the glucosyl hesperidin content is less than 0.01%, the effect of improving blood circulation is not obvious. For example, glucosyl hesperidin can be added in amounts of 0.05%, 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 2.5%, 3.5%, 4.5%, etc.

[0015] Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, a signaling peptide, promotes collagen synthesis (type I, type II, and type IV) and extracellular matrix protein production by increasing stromal cell activity, resulting in younger-looking, more elastic skin. It stimulates collagen and elastin synthesis in the dermis and is an ideal ingredient for accelerating collagen formation and smoothing wrinkles. It helps replenish collagen in the skin, improves facial elasticity, and visibly reduces wrinkles. Furthermore, this skincare product has properties that enhance cellular activity, increase skin water content, enhance radiance, and improve complexion.

[0016] In some embodiments, the composition includes the following components in weight percentages: propyl gallate 0.001% - 0.03%, epigallocatechin gallate 0.001% - 0.03%, diglucosyl gallate 0.001% - 0.03%, ash bark extract 0.08% - 2%, glucosyl hesperidin 0.1% - 4% and palmitoyl tripeptide - 50.001% - 0.02%. In some embodiments, one or more of the following components are also included: a humectant, a chelating agent and a preservative.

[0017] The humectant content is preferably 1-50% by weight, preferably 1-25% by weight, and even more preferably 1-20% by weight. The chelating agent is preferably present in an amount of 0.01 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight. The preservative is preferably present in an amount of 0.1 to 1% by weight.

[0018] In some embodiments, the humectant is selected from one or more of the following: 1,3-propanediol, propylene glycol, pentanediol, hexanediol, sorbitol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, trehalose, xylitol, erythritol, glyceryl polyether-26, β-glucan, methyl glucitol polyether-20, methyl glucitol polyether-10, erythrulose, biogel-1, betaine, rhamnose, oat β-glucan, chitosamine, polyethylene glycols, water-soluble fats and oils, water-soluble silicone oils and sodium hyaluronate. In some embodiments, the chelating agent is selected from EDTA-2Na and / or EDTA-4Na. In some embodiments, the preservative is selected from at least one of the following: p-hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, sorbitan octanoate, benzyl alcohol, benzoic acid, gluconolactone, sodium benzoate, ethylhexylglycerol, methylparaben, propylparaben.

[0019] Patent CN 111388348 A, issued July 10, 2020, describes a composition comprising a hydroxypinacolonic retinoic acid ester and a retinolic retinoic acid ester. Preferably, the weight ratio of said hydroxypinacolonic retinoic acid ester to said retinolic retinoic acid ester is 1: (0.1-10). Preferably, the composition also contains hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. Preferably, the composition additionally contains niacinamide. More preferably, the composition additionally includes tocotrienols, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, and lipoic acid.

[0020] In a second aspect, the present invention provides the use of the above-described composition in cosmetics. In a third aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase component and an oil phase component, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises the composition described above.

[0021] Preferably, the aqueous phase component includes phase A, phase B, and phase D; the oil phase component includes phase C and phase E.

[0022] Preferably, phase A comprises butanediol and a biological polysaccharide; even more preferably, the biological polysaccharide is selected from at least one of the following: tara gum, xanthan gum, hyaluronic acid (or a salt thereof), and bioglycan-1.

[0023] Preferably, phase B comprises water and at least one of the following: saccharide isomer, acetyl chitosamine, rhamnose, inositol, carnosine, niacinamide, panthenol, zymolytic lecithin, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6 and acrylic / vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, as well as a mixture of glycerin and inulin lauryl carbamate.

[0024] Preferably, phase C comprises jojoba oil and at least one of the following components: sucrose squalane, olive oil-based emulsified wax, dextrin palmitate, tocotrienols, rosehip oil, goldenseal oxidanes, cucumber seed oil, oat oil, and watermelon seed oil.

[0025] Preferably, phase D comprises water and at least one of the following acids: phytic acid or its salt, arginine, glycine, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, tetrahydromethylpyrimidinecarboxylic acid, and hydroxyproline.

[0026] Preferably, the E phase includes hydroxypinacolone retinoic acid ester, retinol retinoic acid ester, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyran triol, a preservative, and lipoic acid; even more preferably, the E phase also contains complex essential oil.

[0027] In another preferred embodiment of the invention, hydroxypinacolone retinoic acid ester and retinol retinoic acid ester, as well as hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, niacinamide, tocotrienol, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid and lipoic acid are synergistically compounded to achieve higher antioxidant properties, so that the composition is more gentle and stable, and the antioxidant network has a more multidimensional structure and can restore the cyclic effect.

[0028] In this invention, by using liposomal hydroxypinacolonic retinoic acid ester and liposomal retinol retinoic acid ester, the stability, transdermal absorption and application efficiency of liposomal hydroxypinacolonic retinoic acid ester are improved, oxidation of the product is effectively suppressed, color change is prevented, and the stability and quality guarantee period of the cosmetic product are increased.

[0029] The closest source selected as a prototype is source CN 111228136 A, 06 / 05 / 2020, which discloses an anti-aging composite nanopreparation for removing wrinkles, which is a liposomal nanopreparation and includes: hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, retinol, retinoic acid ester and soy isoflavones.

[0030] In another preferred embodiment, the anti-aging wrinkle removing agent nanopreparation comprises:

[0031] 1-10 parts hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol;

[0032] 0.5-2 parts by weight of soy isoflavone; and

[0033] 0.5-2 parts by weight of retinol ester and retinoic acid.

[0034] In another preferred embodiment, the mixture in step (1) comprises:

[0035] Hydroxypropyltetrahydropyranotriol 1-10 parts by weight;

[0036] 0.5-2 parts by weight of soy isoflavones; and

[0037] 0.5-2 parts by weight of retinyl retinoate.

[0038] The invention is a stable nanoliposome preparation containing hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol, retinol, retinoic acid ester and soy isoflavone as active ingredients.

[0039] Liposomes are produced by coating phospholipids, cholesterol, etc., as membrane material. The phospholipids are dispersed in water, forming multilamellar vesicles, each of which is a lipid bilayer separated by water—these are liposomes.

[0040] Phospholipids and cholesterol can be used as the membrane material for the nanoliposomes proposed in accordance with the invention, wherein the phospholipids include, but are not limited to, soy lecithin and egg yolk lecithin.

[0041] Retinol retinoic acid ester is obtained through the esterification reaction of the hydroxyl group of retinol and retinoic acid, it retains the ring terminal group and alkenyl side chain, maintains the bioactivity of retinol and retinoic acid, and reduces the irritating effect of retinol and retinoic acid.

[0042] Retinyl retinoate is obtained by the esterification reaction of the hydroxyl groups of retinol and retinoic acid, retaining the ring terminal groups and side chain alkenyl groups, thereby maintaining the biological activity of retinol and retinoic acid, but reducing their irritating properties.

[0043] A disadvantage of prior art cosmetic products is that they contain several components with irritant potential and are undesirable for use on the sensitive skin around the eyes. Furthermore, these cosmetic products lack components that restore the lipid barrier, which can be damaged by the use of products containing retinol derivatives. Therefore, these products are not effective in addressing dark circles and bags under the eyes, which are particularly common with aging skin.

[0044] The technical result, which the claimed invention is aimed at achieving, is expressed in moisturizing and nourishing the skin around the eyes, reducing the number and depth of wrinkles, increasing the elasticity of the skin and reducing swelling and dark circles under the eyes.

[0045] The proposed cosmetic composition in the form of a cream for the care of the skin around the eyes with signs of aging, containing PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acids; acetylated glycol stearate; caprylic / capric triglyceride; glycerin; butylene glycol; liposomal retinyl retinoate, including: caprylic / capric triglyceride - glycerin, purified water, retinyl retinoate, phospholipids, ascorbic acid; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, vitamin C; Ceramide complex, which includes: purified water, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerin, hydrogenated lecithin, 1,2-hexanediol, sucrose stearate, ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide AS, ceramide NG, glycosphingolipids; ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, vitamin E, glucosyl hesperidin; horse chestnut extract, including: cyclodexrin, horse chestnut extract, hydroxyacetophenone;a complex preservative including: 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, xanthan gum, disodium EDTA, vitamin K1 oxide, butylated hydroxytoluene, palmitoyl tripeptide, fragrance, purified water in the following ratio of components, wt.%:;

[0046] PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acids – 5.0-7.0

[0047] Acetylated glycol stearate - 2.0-4.0

[0048] caprylic / capric triglyceride – 2.0-4.0

[0049] glycerin – 2.0-4.0

[0050] butylene glycol – 1.0-3.0;

[0051] liposomal retinyl retinoate in an amount of 1.0-3.0, including:

[0052] - capric triglyceride – 0.3-0.9

[0053] - glycerin – 0.29-0.87

[0054] - purified water – 0.3-0.9

[0055] - retinyl retinoate – 0.05-0.15

[0056] - phospholipids – 0.055-0.165

[0057] - ascorbic acid – 0.005-0.015

[0058] Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate – 1.0-3.0

[0059] vitamin C – 0.5-1.5;

[0060] ceramide complex in an amount of 0.5 to 1.0, which includes:

[0061] - purified water – 0.3886-0.7772

[0062] - caprylic / capric triglyceride – 0.03-0.06

[0063] - glycerin – 0.025-0.05

[0064] - hydrogenated lecithin –0.02-0.04

[0065] - 1,2-hexanediol – 0.01-0.02

[0066] - sucrose stearate – 0.005-0.010

[0067] - ceramide NP – 0.021-0.042

[0068] - ceramide AP – 0.000175-0.00035

[0069] - ceramide AS – 0.00015-0.0003

[0070] -ceramide NG – 0.00006-0.00012

[0071] - glycosphingolipids – 0.000015-0.00003

[0072] Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer – 0.4-1.0

[0073] vitamin E – 0.2-0.7

[0074] glucosyl hesperidin – 0.25-0.7;

[0075] horse chestnut extract in the amount of 0.25-1.0, including:

[0076] - cyclodexrin – 0.23375-0.935

[0077] - horse chestnut extract – 0.01625-0.065

[0078] hydroxyacetophenone – 0.2-0.8;

[0079] complex preservative in the amount of 0.2-0.8, including:

[0080] - 1,2-hexanediol – 0.1-0.4

[0081] - caprylyl glycol – 0.1-0.4

[0082] xanthan gum – 0.05-0.5

[0083] disodium EDTA – 0.02-0.15

[0084] Vitamin K1 oxide – 0.02-0.05

[0085] Butylated hydroxytoluene – 0.02-0.1

[0086] palmitoyl tripeptide-1 – 0.0001-0.0003

[0087] fragrance – 0.1-0.35

[0088] purified water – up to 100.

[0089] The cream's main active ingredient is a liposomal retinyl retinoate complex, which includes caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerin, purified water, retinyl retinoate, phospholipids, and ascorbic acid. Retinyl retinoate increases skin cell renewal, promotes collagen production, and inhibits its breakdown, resulting in firmer skin.

[0090] To soften the cream formula, a ceramide complex has been added to the formula. This complex includes purified water, caprylic / capric triglyceride, glycerin, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated lecithin, 1,2-hexanediol, sucrose stearate, ceramide NP, ceramide AP, ceramide AS, ceramide NG, and glycosphingolipids. This active ingredient, primarily due to the correct ratio of ceramides, replenishes the deficiency of intercellular lipids, prevents transepidermal water loss, and participates in the process of normal skin exfoliation. This helps reduce the irritating potential of retinyl retinoate and restore the skin's protective barrier.

[0091] This cream contains palmitoyl tripeptide-1. It stimulates the production of collagen types I and III, making skin smoother and more elastic. Glycerin is added to the formula to dissolve palmitoyl tripeptide-1, which also moisturizes the skin and improves the penetration of active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin.

[0092] The invention also uses glucosyl hesperidin as an active ingredient. Glucosyl hesperidin is a natural bioflavonoid extracted from orange peel and a water-soluble derivative of hesperidin. This invention allows the skin to feel warm by dilating capillaries and improving blood circulation, which helps overcome feelings of cold, pressure, and fatigue, restoring the radiance of tired skin. Glucosyl hesperidin also promotes skin metabolism, effectively reducing dark circles under the eyes, improving skin nutrition, and reducing inflammation. It improves blood circulation, thereby increasing cellular nutrient and oxygen exchange, helping to improve skin tone and reduce dark circles under the eyes.

[0093] The cream contains the active ingredients vitamin K1 oxide (phytonadione epoxide) and horse chestnut extract, which includes cyclodextrin and horse chestnut extract. These ingredients strengthen vascular walls, improve microcirculation in the skin, reduce puffiness, and diminish bags and dark circles under the eyes. Horse chestnut extract is a dry extract of horse chestnut in maltodextrin.

[0094] The cream formula contains vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), which has antioxidant properties and stimulates collagen synthesis. It has a brightening effect on the skin and improves firmness and elasticity.

[0095] The cream contains emollients caprylic / capric triglyceride and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, which improve the distribution of the product on the skin and form a light protective film on its surface that regulates transepidermal moisture loss from the skin.

[0096] Two emulsifiers have been added to stabilize the emulsion, creating a direct emulsion: PEG-8 C12-20 acid ester and acetylated glycol stearate. Thanks to these emulsifiers, the invention is colloidally stable, and the cream is light and pleasant to apply.

[0097] To stabilize and thicken the aqueous phase, two thickeners have been added to the product: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and xanthan gum, which additionally give the cream a pleasant texture.

[0098] To provide antibacterial protection, the cream contains a mixed preservative containing 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol. This preservative has a reduced irritant potential compared to traditional cosmetic preservatives, making it suitable for use on the sensitive skin around the eyes. Hydroxyacetophenone is also added, synergizing with the mixed preservative, enhancing its effectiveness.

[0099] Butylene glycol is added to the formula to disperse xanthan gum and mixed preservative.

[0100] To provide antioxidant protection for the fatty phase of the cream, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) and vitamin E have been added to the product, which also has a moisturizing effect.

[0101] Disodium EDTA is added to the cream as a chelating agent for the aqueous phase.

[0102] Fragrance is used to give the cream a pleasant aroma.

[0103] The possibility of implementing the claimed invention is confirmed by examples of specific implementation.

[0104] Example 1. Composition with minimal values ​​of active components

[0105] Component Content, mass% Purified water up to 100 PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acids 5,00 Acetylated glycol stearate 2,00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 2,00 Glycerol 2,00 Butylene glycol 1,00 Liposomal retinyl retinoate (total) 1,00 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,30 - glycerin 0,29 - purified water 0,30 - retinyl retinoate 0,05 - phospholipids 0,055 - ascorbic acid 0,005 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 1,00 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 0,50 Ceramide complex (total) 0,50 - purified water 0,3886 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,03 - glycerin 0,025 - hydrogenated lecithin 0,02 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,01 - sucrose stearate 0,005 - ceramide NP 0,021 - ceramide AP 0,000175 - ceramide AS 0,00015 - ceramide NG 0,00006 - glycosphingolipids 0,000015 Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,40 Tocopheryl acetate 0,20 Glucosyl hesperidin 0,25 Horse chestnut extract (total) 0,25 - cyclodextrin 0,23375 - horse chestnut extract 0,01625 Hydroxyacetophenone 0,20 Complex preservative (in total) 0,20 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,10 - caprylyl glycol 0,10 Xanthan gum 0,05 Disodium EDTA 0,02 Phytonadione epoxide 0,02 Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) 0,02 Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0,0001 Fragrance 0,10

[0106] Example 2. Composition with medium-low component values

[0107] Component Content, mass% Purified water up to 100 PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acids 5,50 Acetylated glycol stearate 3,00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 2,50 Glycerol 2,50 Butylene glycol 1,50 Liposomal retinyl retinoate (total) 1,50 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,45 - glycerin 0,435 - purified water 0,45 - retinyl retinoate 0,075 - phospholipids 0,0825 - ascorbic acid 0,0075 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 1,50 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 0,75 Ceramide complex (total) 0,65 - purified water 0,5052 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,039 - glycerin 0,0325 - hydrogenated lecithin 0,026 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,013 - sucrose stearate 0,0065 - ceramide NP 0,0273 - ceramide AP 0,0002275 - ceramide AS 0,000195 - ceramide NG 0,000078 - glycosphingolipids 0,0000195 Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,60 Tocopheryl acetate 0,35 Glucosyl hesperidin 0,40 Horse chestnut extract (total) 0,50 - cyclodextrin 0,4675 - horse chestnut extract 0,0325 Hydroxyacetophenone 0,40 Complex preservative (in total) 0,40 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,20 - caprylyl glycol 0,20 Xanthan gum 0,20 Disodium EDTA 0,08 Phytonadione epoxide 0,03 Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) 0,05 Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0,00015 Fragrance 0,20

[0108] Example 3. Composition with medium-high (optimal) component values

[0109] Component Content, mass% Purified water up to 100 PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acids 6,00 Acetylated glycol stearate 3,00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 3,00 Glycerol 3,00 Butylene glycol 2,00 Liposomal retinyl retinoate (total) 2,00 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,60 - glycerin 0,58 - purified water 0,60 - retinyl retinoate 0,10 - phospholipids 0,11 - ascorbic acid 0,01 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 2,00 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 1,00 Ceramide complex (total) 1,00 - purified water 0,7772 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,06 - glycerin 0,05 - hydrogenated lecithin 0,04 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,02 - sucrose stearate 0,01 - ceramide NP 0,042 - ceramide AP 0,00035 - ceramide AS 0,0003 - ceramide NG 0,00012 - glycosphingolipids 0,00003 Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 0,80 Tocopheryl acetate 0,50 Glucosyl hesperidin 0,50 Horse chestnut extract (total) 0,50 - cyclodextrin 0,4675 - horse chestnut extract 0,0325 Hydroxyacetophenone 0,50 Complex preservative (in total) 0,50 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,25 - caprylyl glycol 0,25 Xanthan gum 0,15 Disodium EDTA 0,10 Phytonadione epoxide 0,05 Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) 0,05 Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0,0003 Fragrance 0,22

[0110] Example 4. Composition with maximum values ​​of active components

[0111] Component Content, mass% Purified water up to 100 PEG-8 ester of C12-20 acids 7,00 Acetylated glycol stearate 4,00 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 4,00 Glycerol 4,00 Butylene glycol 3,00 Liposomal retinyl retinoate (total) 3,00 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,90 - glycerin 0,87 - purified water 0,90 - retinyl retinoate 0,15 - phospholipids 0,165 - ascorbic acid 0,015 Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 3,00 Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate 1,50 Ceramide complex (total) 1,00 - purified water 0,7772 - caprylic / capric triglyceride 0,06 - glycerin 0,05 - hydrogenated lecithin 0,04 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,02 - sucrose stearate 0,01 - ceramide NP 0,042 - ceramide AP 0,00035 - ceramide AS 0,0003 - ceramide NG 0,00012 - glycosphingolipids 0,00003 Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 1,00 Tocopheryl acetate 0,70 Glucosyl hesperidin 0,70 Horse chestnut extract (total) 1,00 - cyclodextrin 0,935 - horse chestnut extract 0,065 Hydroxyacetophenone 0,80 Complex preservative (in total) 0,80 - 1,2-hexanediol 0,40 - caprylyl glycol 0,40 Xanthan gum 0,50 Disodium EDTA 0,15 Phytonadione epoxide 0,05 Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) 0,10 Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0,0003 Fragrance 0,35

[0112] The cream is prepared using the following technology.

[0113] Turn on the reactor heating. Pour purified water at 78-80°C into the reactor, then add the disodium EDTA solution. Turn on the stirrer. Next, while the stirrer is running, add hydroxyacetophenone and a mixture of butylene glycol and a mixed preservative. Then add ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, let it swell for 5-15 minutes, and homogenize until a gel forms. Then add the mixture of xanthan gum and butylene glycol.

[0114] The fat phase components (caprylic / capric triglyceride, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, PEG-8 C12-20 acid ester, acetylated glycol stearate, vitamin E (tocopheryl acetate), BHT, vitamin K1 oxide (phytonadione epoxide), vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate)) are melted in a stainless steel container or in an enamel container by heating to 78-80°C on a hotplate while stirring until a translucent solution is formed.

[0115] The melted and heated fat phase is poured into the reactor with the heated aqueous phase. The mixture is stirred. The homogenizer is turned on and emulsification of the mixture begins.

[0116] Turn off the reactor heating at the reactor control unit. Start cooling by introducing cold water into the reactor jacket, gradually cooling the mass to a semi-finished product temperature of 45°C. When the semi-finished product temperature reaches 40-45°C, add the liposomal retinyl retinoate complex to the reactor. When the semi-finished product temperature reaches 35-37°C, stop cooling, and add the active ingredients (glucosyl hesperidin, horse chestnut extract, ceramide complex, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 solution in glycerin), and fragrance to the reactor.

[0117] After introducing all components and mixing, turn on the homogenizer and further emulsify the semi-finished product, simultaneously vacuuming throughout the homogenization process.

[0118] The cream is stirred and cooled to a temperature of 25°C by adding cold water to the reactor jacket. A vacuum is applied.

[0119] Technical indicators of the cream

[0120] Mass fraction of water and volatile substances (according to GOST 29188.4): 75-95.5%

[0121] Hydrogen index (according to GOST 29188.2): 5.0-6.0

[0122] Colloidal stability (according to GOST 29188.3): stable

[0123] Thermostability (according to GOST 29188.3): stable /

[0124] To confirm the stated technical result, the obtained samples of cream for the care of the skin around the eyes with signs of aging are subjected to an assessment of consumer properties and physicochemical indicators.

[0125] The following parameters were selected to evaluate consumer properties: odor, oiliness, stickiness, spreading, and moisture content. The average values ​​obtained from consumer testing are presented in Table 1 (values ​​are given on a 10-point scale).

[0126] Table 1

[0127] Average values ​​of consumer properties indicators Parameter name Composition 1, points Composition 2, points Composition 3, points Composition 4, points Smell 9,1 9,3 9,5 9,4 Diversity 9,5 9,1 10,0 9,4 Fat content 9,4 9,2 9,8 8,8 Stickiness 9,2 9,5 9,9 9,6 Skin hydration 8,9 9,2 9,6 9,5

[0128] Composition 3 is optimal according to the given consumer testing indicators.

[0129] In terms of organoleptic and physicochemical properties, Compositions 1-4 comply with the requirements and standards of GOST 31460–2012, specified in Table 2.

[0130] Table 2

[0131] Organoleptic and physicochemical indicators Name of the indicator Acceptable standards Characteristics and norms of Composition 1 Characteristics and norms of Composition 2 Characteristics and norms of Composition 3 Characteristics and norms of Composition 4 Appearance, color Homogeneous mass, free from foreign impurities Homogeneous mass, free from foreign impurities Homogeneous mass, free from foreign impurities Homogeneous mass, free from foreign impurities Homogeneous mass, free from foreign impurities Color Characteristic of the color of this cream From white to yellow From white to yellow From white to yellow From white to yellow Smell The characteristic smell of this cream Floral Floral Floral Floral Mass fraction of water and volatile substances, % 5,0-98,0 75,0-95,5 75,0-95,5 75,0-95,5 75,0-95,5 Brookfield viscosity Not regulated 8,0-11,50 8,0-11,50 8,0-11,50 8,0-11,50 pH 5,0-8,5 5,0-6,0 5,0-6,0 5,0-6,0 5,0-6,0 Colloidal stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable Thermal stability Stable Stable Stable Stable Stable

[0132] Toxicological studies have shown that the creams are safe and do not have a general toxic effect.

[0133] Clinical studies have shown that the creams do not have an irritating or sensitizing effect.

[0134] These creams have a pronounced softening and moisturizing effect, increase the elasticity and firmness of the skin, reduce the appearance of fine wrinkles / fine lines, dark circles and bags under the eyes, which is confirmed by the consumer test results presented below.

[0135] According to the test subjects' reviews, the following was noted: the texture and application of the sample were rated excellent by the majority of test subjects. The KP is not greasy / not drying for 52% (30 people) of test subjects, does not tighten for 36% (21 people), is greasy for 5% (3 people), feels tight for 3% (2 people), and dries the skin for 3% (2 people). The scent of the KP was liked by 92% (34 people) of test subjects. The scent intensity (from 1 to 3, where 1 is very weak and 3 is noticeable) was rated as "2" by 51% (19 people), "1" by 46% (17 people), and "3" by 3% (1 person). Skin moisturizing was rated as good by 49% (18 people) of subjects, excellent by 41% (15 people), satisfactory by 8% (3 people), and poor by 3% (1 person). With regular use, the skin became more elastic and firm according to 54% (20 people), minor changes were noted by 38% (14 people), and 8% (3 people) of respondents did not notice that the skin became more elastic and firm. 48% (25 people) of subjects did not experience any discomfort after application, and 15% (8 people) noted increased skin sensitivity.), mild irritation in 15% (8 people) of respondents, peeling – 10% (5 people), itching – 6% (3 people), a feeling of dry skin – 2% (1 person). A burning sensation was noted by 5% (2 people) of respondents, insignificant – 16% (6 people), no burning sensation – 78% (29 people). A decrease in the severity of dark circles was noted as insignificant by 27% (10 people) of respondents, no – 19% (7 people), yes – 16% (6 people), no such problem – 38% (14 people). 38% (14 people) of respondents noted a decrease in the severity of fine wrinkles (fine lines) around the eyes from the sample, 14% (5 people) – no, 49% (18 people) – insignificant. A reduction in puffiness in the area around the eyes was noted by 30% (11 people) of the subjects, no such problem – 30% (11 people), insignificant – 24% (9 people), no effect – 16% (6 people). It lightened pigmentation in 19% (7 people) of the subjects, had no effect – 14% (5 people), no pigmentation – 68% (25 people). Increased sensitivity while using the cream was noted as insignificant (did not cause discomfort) – 8% (3 people).) respondents, yes, there was, but it went away after several uses – 14% (5 people), yes, it was too strong, the product had to be discontinued – 14% (5 people), no, there was no effect at all – 65% (24 people). Used sunscreen with SPF (at least 30) – 78% (29 people) of respondents, did not use – 14% (5 people), used sunglasses – 8% (3 people). Caused an allergy in 3% (1 person) of respondents, caused irritation in 14% (5 people) of respondents. The sample seemed to be more effective than those products with retinol for the skin around the eyes, which they had tried before for 22% (8 people) of respondents, no – 22% (8 people), have not tried retinol – 57% (21 people).

[0136] Examples of reviews from consumer testing:

[0137] "The product was truly impressive! The skin under my eyes and on my neck became significantly firmer, and I felt fuller and more alert. The BB cream under my eyes stayed on well during the day (I used it every evening) and didn't settle into wrinkles, meaning it was adequately moisturized. There was no morning puffiness during the entire period of use, even despite hot nights, except for a slight puffiness during PMS. This is an excellent result, and this is definitely thanks to the cream, as I ran out a week ago and the morning puffiness is gradually returning."

[0138] "It nourishes and moisturizes the skin well. My skin is more elastic. I would be happy to buy this product again."

[0139] "I'll definitely be waiting for the product to be released and plan to use it regularly. I don't have any dark circles, only occasional puffiness, but wrinkles around my eyes—a problem I've had since I was 30. I wouldn't say everything magically disappeared, but my skin really did feel firmer. The visual effect might have been more noticeable, but I lost 6 kg while testing it. None of the usual worries (sagging skin, sagging face, more visible wrinkles) happened. Perhaps thanks to the cream. Thank you for the opportunity to share!"

[0140] "I personally really liked this cream. Over time, it seems to really plump the skin around the eyes, making fine lines less visible. It also moisturizes well, absorbs quickly, and feels comfortable."

[0141] "It smooths out wrinkles really well, the skin is well moisturized."

[0142] "I really liked it. I have thick skin and practically no wrinkles, but so far this is practically the only cream that has noticeably lightened the dark circles under my eyes (apparently due to the firming of the skin). No discomfort, no adjustment period..."

[0143] "Pleasant smell, delicate consistency, quickly absorbed, skin after use became more elastic and nourished."

[0144] "Overall impression: the cream is amazing. It's the best I've ever used. I used it every night. The result: my skin became firmer and more nourished, fine wrinkles smoothed out, and my skin tone became more even. It's easy to apply, absorbs quickly, and doesn't leave a greasy residue."