Cosmetic cleansing water-based composition comprising surfactin

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the components (A) to (E) in specific amount, wherein (A) and (B) are specific polyglycerol fatty acid esters, (C) is a liquid oil; (D) is sodium surfactin and (E) is a water phase. The invention is also directed to the use of such aqueous compositions to enhance the cleansing selectivity of the cosmetics containing them, notably by efficiently cleansing the skin without removing epidermal surface lipids of the skin that contribute to normal skin functions such as the barrier function and the maintenance of healthy skin.

Description

[0001] COSMETIC CLEANSING WATER-BASED COMPOSITION COMPRISING SURFACTIN

[0002] Field of invention

[0003] The present invention relates to aqueous compositions suitable for cleansing the skin, said compositions being efficient, not sticky, selective towards the epidermal surface lipids of skin material of humans, while being stable during storage. The invention is also directed to the use of such aqueous compositions to enhance the cleansing selectivity of the cosmetics containing them, notably by efficiently cleansing the skin without removing epidermal surface lipids of the skin that contribute to normal skin functions such as the barrier function and the maintenance of healthy skin, while contributing to remove keratin plugs.

[0004] Background of the invention

[0005] Cleansing requires a delicate balance between skin hygiene and stratum corneum barrier damage. The act of cleansing is a complex physical and chemical interaction between water, detergent, and keratinous material. Cleansers are effective at maintaining skin hygiene and a healthy skin barrier, but may cause damage because surfactants contained therein cannot distinguish the lipophilic skin impurities that need to be removed, from the lipophilic intercellular lipids ensuring barrier maintenance. The bipolar structure of skin impurities is similar to the fatty acids, cholesterol, and ceramides comprising the lipid bilayers of the stratum corneum.

[0006] Furthermore, a good cleansing product should thoroughly clean the skin from dust, lotions and makeup, as well as from contaminated sebum, sweat and delaminated horned skin particles. To achieve this purifying effect, the product should remove substances soluble in fats (sebum, cream and makeup), as well as substances soluble in water (sweat residues).

[0007] Furthermore, with the changes of the life-styles in the recent years, consumers look for products that allow removing makeup efficiently without taking too much time, and preferably without having to further rinse the face, while leaving a refreshed feeling and reduced stickiness. In addition, there is a particularly strong consumer demand for cosmetic products with higher naturality levels, and a need to move towards alternative water-based cosmetics that are more respectful of the environment.

[0008] In aqueous cleansing cosmetics such as cleansing lotions, the cleansing power is less advantageous in many cases, as compared to those of the oil type or emulsion type cleansing cosmetics, since the makeup products are mostly oil-soluble. Accordingly, the techniques for improving the cleansing power of the aqueous cleansing cosmetics are desired. However, it is known that cleansing cosmetics containing a high concentration of surfactant show high cleansing effect, but at the same time cause skin irritation. It is generally difficult to obtain a sufficient cleansing effect with a low surfactant concentration. There is a demand in the market for cosmetics that have a high cleansing effect despite low surfactant concentrations that cause little skin irritation.

[0009] Indeed, a typical cleansing water is a solubilized aqueous solution containing less than 5%wt of surfactant, while a typical cleansing water-based gel usually contains between 5 and 15% wt of surfactant, preferably between 5 and 10%wt. Makeup impurities and sebum come into contact with the surfactant and need to be wiped off with a tissue or cotton pad to remove them. In addition, the surfactant is formulated in light concentration so as not to cause stickiness. However, a concern about skin stress due to rubbing remains.

[0010] Among surfactants, anionic surfactants and / or ethoxylated surfactants are known to be compatible with a large range of formulation ingredients, providing therefore formulation flexibility thus placing them as primary ingredients in cleansing products. One of the most widely known example of anionic surfactant is ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS). However, some anionic surfactants are no longer used in consumer products, since they are known to disrupt the lipids of the stratum corneum, and thus not suited for application to the skin. Indeed, they are known to negatively interact with the corneocytes of the skin, thus causing irritation, especially when left on the skin, as it is the case of leave-on cleansing products.

[0011] Anionic surfactants can be modified to make them less irritating. For example, ammonium lauryl sulfate can be “ethoxylated” by reacting it with ethylene oxide to produce ammonium laureth sulfate. This additional chemical processing makes the final product significantly less irritating and slightly more water soluble. However, “ethoxylated” surfactants are still criticized for their environmental impact. Above that, there is a particularly strong consumer demand for cosmetic products integrating alternative surfactants that are more respectful of the skin, as well as the environment.

[0012] Furthermore, these surfactants cannot differentiate the sebum and oil- soluble skin impurities from the lipophilic substances composing the intercellular lipids. One popular technique to try replenishing some of the components of the intercellular lipids removed during cleansing is to add ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, and / or triglycerides to the cleanser . The problem with this approach is the short contact time between the cleanser and the skin. Cleansers remain on the skin for a short period to minimize stratum corneum protein damage; however, this short contact does not allow time for active ingredients to penetrate and remain on the skin. Further, if ceramides really penetrated into the stratum corneum from a cleanser, then so too would the surfactants causing accelerated barrier damage. There remains a need for water-based cleansing compositions that remain stable over time while being non-irritant to the skin and preserve the skin barrier by minimizing skin barrier damage.

[0013] Surprisingly, it has also been observed that the composition according to the invention could efficiently target keratin plugs, facilitating their removal while maintaining the integrity of the skin and minimizing irritation.

[0014] Keratin plugs, commonly known as comedones, are known to obstruct the pores, leading to various skin issues, including acne, blackheads, and a generally undesired uneven skin texture.

[0015] Despite the prevalence of keratin plugs, their removal remains a significant challenge. Keratin plugs are notoriously resistant to removal due to their compacted and hardened structure. Conventional methods for their extraction typically involve either physical removal, such as manual extraction or exfoliation, or the use of aggressive chemical agents, such as salicylic acid or retinoids. However, these methods present several drawbacks. As far as physical methods are concerned, techniques such as manual extraction or exfoliation can be painful, time-consuming, and often require professional intervention, nonetheless leading to skin irritation, damage, or scarring if not performed correctly. Common detergents such as soaps do not dissolve keratin plugs at all. While effective in dissolving the keratin plugs, strong chemical agents can cause skin irritation, redness, peeling, and increased sensitivity, especially in individuals with sensitive or reactive skin types. Long-term use of such chemicals may also compromise the skin barrier function, leading to further dermatological issues.

[0016] Indeed, there is also a clear and unmet need for a water-based cleansing cosmetic composition that can also effectively and gently remove keratin plugs without the adverse effects associated with physical extraction or the use of harsh chemicals.

[0017] The present invention provides an unexpected and advantageous solution to all these requirements with the incorporation of new specific surfactants that totally replace the ethoxylated anionic surfactants described as indispensable in the prior art. An object of the present invention is therefore to provide new non sticky, PEG-free, water-based compositions which are stable during storage and which are non-irritant to the skin. Such compositions would also facilitate keratin plug removal.

[0018] Summary of the invention

[0019] A new cosmetic composition overcomes these challenges by combining specific polyglycerin derivatives and Sodium Surfactin bio surfactant, the latter being a mild surfactant present at a concentration of less than 4%, such new cosmetic composition having a bicontinuous structure and selectively emulsifying and removing oleic acid, a major component of sebum.

[0020] Surf actin was named by Arima of the University of Tokyo. It is a substance derived from the Bacillus subtilis culture, whose structure was determined by Kakiuchi et al. It is a lipopeptide with a cyclic peptide as the hydrophilic part and an alkyl side chain as the hydrophobic part. Aspartic acid and glutamic acid in cyclic peptides have free carboxyl groups, and their sodium salts function as anionic surfactants.

[0021] Sodium Surfactin also answers the ongoing need for sustainability and environmental considerations for cosmetic products. Sodium Surfactin is thus a highly biodegradable biosurfactant produced by microorganisms that does not contain petroleum-derived components in their structures.

[0022] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising the following components (A) to (E):

[0023] - Component (A): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0024] - Component (B): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0025] - Component (C): a liquid oil;

[0026] - Component (D): sodium surfactin and

[0027] - Component (E): water phase, wherein a total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the mass ratio of Component (C) to a total amount of Components (A) and (B) ((C) / (A)+(B)) is from 0.05 to 0.4, and wherein Component (A) and Component (B) have a mixed HLB of from 12.4 to 14.2; wherein a total amount of Component (D) is from 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0028] The present invention is also directed to the use of the cosmetic composition as defined above to enhance the cleansing selectivity towards oleic acid.

[0029] The present invention is also directed to the use of the cosmetic composition as defined above to remove keratin plugs.

[0030] Sebum contains components that are easily oxidized such as oleic acid, and as their oxidation progresses, they become active aldehydes, which oxidize the stratum corneum on the surface of the skin and cause carbonylation of stratum corneum proteins. It causes inflammation, leading to parakeratosis, irregular skin texture, and deterioration of transepidermal water loss. In addition, it can also cause opacification of the stratum corneum, such as dullness of the stratum corneum and darkening around the pores.

[0031] It is of the merit of the inventors to have discovered that the combination of specific components within the water-based composition made it possible to provide storage stable, PEG-free cleansing compositions that are perfectly non-irritant to the skin and more respectful to the environment. Said composition further facilitates keratin plug removal.

[0032] By adding the specific Sodium Surfactin as anionic surfactant and polyglycerin derivatives together with the water phase and liquid oil, each component being present in specific ratios, improved cleansing performance was achieved through spontaneous emulsification, while ensuring reduced skin irritation and minimizing skin barrier damage through selective detergency.

[0033] In particular, within the meaning of the invention, the water-based composition, that may interchangeably be called aqueous composition, is a bicontinuous microemulsion (BCME) that has excellent cleansing ability despite higher water phase content. By higher water phase content it is understood a water-based composition that contains at least 75%wt by mass, preferably at least 83%wt by mass or more, preferably 88% wt of water phase by mass of the total mass of the composition, for example at least 75%wt by mass, preferably at least 83%wt by mass or more, preferably at least 88% wt of water alone or in combination with water-soluble ingredients by mass of the total mass of the composition. BCMEs can be obtained through a cold-process, which means that water phase, which constitutes the majority of the composition, can be used at room temperature. Notwithstanding, the other components forming the BCME could be heated beforehand. By room temperature, it is understood a temperature between 20 to 25°C.

[0034] The composition may be highly fluidic. It may have a viscosity of less than lOOmPas, preferably between 1 to 80 mPas.

[0035] Alternatively, the composition may be a gel. It may have a viscosity of more than 1 000 mPas, preferably between 5 000 mPas and 30 000 mPas, preferably between 5 000 mPas and 20 000 mPas, preferably around 10 000 mPas.

[0036] The BCME has a unique behavior as it spontaneously interacts with an oil layer to form an emulsion. This allows for more efficient dirt removal compared to common cleansing agents that work at the interface of the cleansing agent and oil alone. The water-based composition uses thus a surfactant, sodium surfactin, and thus does not contain polyethylene oxide and / or polypropylene oxide.

[0037] As opposed to normal micelles and emulsions which contain an external phase and an internal phase, BCMEs do not have such separate phases. The particular composition of the water-based composition allows spontaneous emulsification which inhibits physical irritation such as rubbing and reduces skin stress during cleansing.

[0038] Furthermore, it allows selective detergency of impurities without putting a stress on the skin and does not remove the epidermal surface lipids of the skin. In particular, selective detergency is translated by effective removal of oleic acid while leaving the epidermal surface lipids of the skin (such as squalane). Without being bound by a theory, the skin barrier function and moisture content would be adversely affected not only by the quantity of sebum but also by its quality. Barrier function decreases when the proportion of oleic acid in sebum is important. Efficient removal of oleic acid from sebum, thus leading to sebum poor or exempt from oleic acid, would improve the skin’s barrier function. In other words, the composition of the invention would reduce skin stress and help restore the skin barrier function.

[0039] Indeed, the bicontinuous micro emulsion (BCME) has an intricate three-dimensional structure of water phase and surfactant / oil, which is bicontinuous, and has low interfacial tension and high solubilizing power. Therefore, it has high cleansing ability as the BCME can easily come into contact with makeup dirts and remove them. By applying this bicontinuous micro emulsion, one achieves a quick and high level of makeup removal from the skin without stressing it.

[0040] Brief description of the drawings

[0041] The present disclosure may be better understood and its numerous features and advantages made apparent to those skilled in the art by referencing and accompanying drawings.

[0042] On the drawings:

[0043] - Figure 1 is a is a photograph obtained via cryo FIB-SEM performed on a composition according to Example 1 according to the invention

[0044] - Figures 2A-2F are photographs obtained of the contact surface between artificial keratin plug (Fig. 2A, 2C, 2E) and artificial sebum (Fig. 2B, 2D, 2F) and the cleansing composition according to Example IB according to the invention;

[0045] - Figures 3A-3C are photographs obtained via microscopic observation (x200) of the contact surface between artificial keratin plug and the cleansing composition according to Example 1A (Fig 3A), Example IB (Fig. 3B) and Example 1C (Fig. 3C) respectively, according to the invention.

[0046] Detailed description of the invention

[0047] The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the following components (A) to (E):

[0048] - Component (A): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0049] - Component (B): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0050] - Component (C): a liquid oil;

[0051] - Component (D): sodium surfactin and

[0052] - Component (E): water phase, wherein a total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the mass ratio of Component (C) to a total amount of Components (A) and (B) ((C) / (A)+(B)) is from 0.05 to 0.4, and wherein Component (A) and Component (B) have a mixed HLB of from 12.4 to 14.2; wherein a total amount of Component (D) is from 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0053] Component (A)

[0054] The component (A) is an ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and glycerol in a polymerization degree of 5 to 7, preferably 6.

[0055] Component (B)

[0056] Component (B) is a diester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of 5 to 7, preferably 6.

[0057] The poly glycerol fatty acid ester is easily obtained by an esterification of a poly glycerol and a fatty acid by a conventional method, or an addition polymerization of a fatty acid and a glycidol. The esterification of a polyglycerol and a fatty acid can be carried out by, but not particularly limited to, for example, heating a polyglycerol and a fatty acid at a temperature range of preferably from 100° to 300° C., and more preferably from 120° to 260° C., in the presence of an acid catalyst (phosphoric acid, p-toluenesulfonic acid, or the like) or an alkali catalyst (sodium hydroxide, or the like), or in the absence of a catalyst, while removing water. In addition, the reaction may be carried out in the presence of an inert gas. The ester obtained as described above may be purified in accordance with its purposes. As the purification, in addition to the distillation technique such as distillation under a reduced pressure, a molecular distillation, or a steam distillation, an extraction with an organic solvent, fractionations, or chromatography separations with column packed with synthetic adsorbents or gel filtration agents can be utilized. Here, an intended polyglycerol fatty acid ester may be obtained by carrying out a transesterification with a polyglycerol using a fatty acid ester in place of a fatty acid.

[0058] The total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 2 to 10% by mass, and more preferably from 3 to 5% by mass. In addition, a mixed HLB of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 12.4 to 14.2, and preferably from 13 to 14.

[0059] The HLB as used herein refers to a value measured by a Griffin calculation method given below, and a mixed HLB of Component (A) and Component (B) is calculated utilizing the additive properties thereof. Specifically, the mixed HLB as used herein is a weighted average of Component (A) and Component (B).

[0060] HLB=20(l-S / A); wherein :

[0061] S: saponification value of a poly glycerol fatty acid ester, and

[0062] A: a neutral value of a raw material fatty acid.

[0063] Component (C)

[0064] The component (C) is a liquid oil. Examples of the liquid oil include hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, acylglycerols, ether oils, vegetable oils, silicone oils, and the like, from the perspective of stickiness, ester oils are preferable.

[0065] Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include hydrogenated polyisobutene, liquid paraffin, light liquid isoparaffin, squalane, undecane, tridecane, and the like.

[0066] Examples of the ester oil include isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl isostearate, cetyl 2- ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, Propylheptyl caprylate, (caprylate / caprylate) caprylate, (caprylate / caprylate) cap, dicaprylate carbonate, and the like.

[0067] Acylglycerols include tri (capryl / caprate) glyceryl, tri 2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl diisostearate, and the like.

[0068] Vegetable oils include camelia oil, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, rice germ oil, rice bran oil, safflower oil, soybean oil, com oil, rapeseed oil, palm kernel oil, castor oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, coconut oil, and the like. The total content of said Component (C) is between 0.15% to 1.2% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 0.5% to 1% .

[0069] The mass ratio of Component (C) to a total amount of Components (A) and (B) - written as : (C) / [(A)+(B)] is from 0.05 to 0.4, preferably from 0.25 to 0.35 .

[0070] Component (D)

[0071] Sodium surfactin is a natural anionic surfactant surfactant with high biodegradability. It is a peptidelipid composed of amino acids and fatty acids and is produced by the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. However, due to its special structure, it can be rather unstable over time. By adding sodium surfactin together with the other components, both selective detergency and stability are achieved.

[0072] Furthermore, spontaneous emulsification does not occur in BCME formulations without sodium surfactin. Due to the spontaneous emulsification, the oil impurities are not only solubilized, but are emulsified instead. Within the meaning of the invention, the emulsification can incorporate a greater amount of impurities than solubilization.

[0073] The content of said Component (D) is from 0.2% to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0074] Component (E)

[0075] Component E is water phase which comprises water, optionally together with further ingredients that constitute the water phase, such as water-soluble ingredients that do not show surfactant properties. The water phase comprises water and optionally, humectants (such as sorbitol), thickeners or gelling agents (such as acrylate C 10-30 alkynyl acrylate crosspolymer), polysaccharides (such as xanthan gum), alkaline agents acting as neutralizing agents (such as sodium hydroxide or tromethamine), preservatives (such as chlorphenesin). In one embodiment, the water phase (compound E) consists of water only, such as demineralized water or floral water, such as camellia water, or a mixture thereof.

[0076] The content of said Component (E) may be at least 75%wt by mass, preferably at least 83%wt by mass or more, preferably 88% wt of water phase by mass of the total mass of the composition, for example at least 75%wt by mass, preferably at least 83%wt by mass or more, preferably at least 88% wt of water alone or in combination with water-soluble ingredients by mass of the total mass of the composition.

[0077] Component (F)

[0078] The cosmetic composition may further comprise a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by mass as Component (F) of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5%. Component (F) may be a polyglycerol alkyl ether. Said alkyl may be chosen from an alkyl chain containing between 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably between 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0079] Bicontinuous microemulsion (BCME)

[0080] Bicontinuous microemulsions and oil-in-water microemulsions have different structures. In case of BCME, the classical microemulsion is a so-called swollen micelle containing a small amount of oil. The outer phase is the aqueous phase and the inner phase is the oil phase. Thermodynamically, it is known that when oil is added to a stable one-liquid phase, it floats on top of the liquid surface without diffusing into the inner phase. On the other hand, BCME does not have an inner or outer phases. Both are independent and they form a continuous phase. Thus, the BCME has a sponge-like structure. As a result, when water phase and / or oil is added, it can diffuse via each continuous domain. Using this property, BCME is generally confirmed by a method called the dye method. When dyed oil and dyed water phase are added simultaneously, BCME diffuses in both. In a classical microemulsion, dyed water phase diffuses, but dyed oil floats.

[0081] In the past, BC structures were observed using FF-TEM, etc., but cryo FIB-SEM, which can remove volatile components, such as a water, by sublimation, has made it possible to obtain clearer images.

[0082] The bicontinuous microemulsion is not formed of particles, thus no particle size can be measured.

[0083] The bicontinuous structure was demonstrated by SAXS and cryo FIB-SEM. Cryo FIB- SEM is used as this method allows removal of volatile components, such as a water, by sublimation, making it possible to obtain clearer images, as the one in Figure 1.

[0084] Figure 1 is a photograph obtained via cryo FIB-SEM performed on a composition according to Example 1 according to the invention (see Table 2, Example 1). The photograph captured two domains:

[0085] (a) : illustrating the surface state after cryo treatment with liquid nitrogen followed by a sublimation treatment;

[0086] (b) : illustrating the state of the surface after cryo treatment with liquid nitrogen, followed by scraping the surface with FIB and then followed by the sublimation treatment. The black part in domain (b) indicates the components volatilized by sublimation. In this case it will be water. The white-gray part is the part where the oil and the surfactant are present.

[0087] Furthermore, two kinds of formulas, with and without sodium surfactin (BCME-SF and BCME-0), were used for all the measurements. Different oils were used: oleic acid for sebum dirt model, a mixture of dimethicone and ester for makeup dirt model, and squalane as model one of the epidermal surface lipids that should not be removed from the skin. The interfacial behavior was observed with a digital microscope when the BCME formula contacted with the oil. The dynamic interfacial tensions of the BCME formula and the oil were measured by the pendant drop method. The BCME structure was identified by SAXS and cryo FIB-SEM (not illustrated).

[0088] SAXS and cryo FIB-SEM proved that the BCME-SF had a sponge-like structure where a large amount of water was trapped in the flexible surfactant bilayer network. It is known that the bilayer structure with zero curvature would generally attain the lower interfacial tension (y), depended on the oil species. Squalane and makeup dirt model showed relatively higher y between 0.5 and 1 mN / m, while y for oleic acid-BCME-SF was undetectable with the device used here, that is, less than 0.1 mN / m. In addition, BCME-SF showed the higher y than BCME- 0, suggesting that surf actin can control the interfacial energy selectively for oil species. In the case of squalane and makeup dirt model, these were diffused and solubilized in the BCME-SF layer after contact. In contrast, when oleic acid (model for sebum intended to be removed) came into contact with BCME-SF, an emulsion was immediately formed.

[0089] Conventional water-based cleansing agents remove makeup dirt by solubilization, while the BCME behaves in the opposite manner. When contacting oil layer, BCME would preferentially become negative curvature rather than positive, leading to penetration of BCME in the oil layer. The dynamic curvature change may be caused by the affinity between oil and the hydrophobic chain of surfactant that can be related to the interfacial energy. The results show that BCME has quite lower y, but it should be noted that y depends on the oil. This tiny difference in g would be significant on the dynamic curvature change, e.g. BCME penetration. Surfactin added in BCME plays an important role in y as well as stability, and selectively changes y based on the oil. Thus, the inventors successfully developed a new stable formula with surfactin that can selectively remove dirt from the skin.

[0090] Epidermal surface lipids, within the meaning of the invention, are of sebaceous origin. The lipids produced by the epidermis are an insignificant fraction of the total extractable surface lipid. Human sebum is a mixture of non-polar lipids, mainly triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, fatty acids and smaller amounts of cholesterol, cholesterol esters and diglycerides. On the other hand, lipids produced by keratinocytes are a mixture of almost equal proportions of free fatty acids (such as linoleic acid and alpha-linoleic acid), cholesterol and ceramides. The cosmetic composition can comprise, at least one usual additive in the field, such as for example at least one compound chosen from an emollient or humectant agent, an oil, an active agent, a colorant, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a sunscreen and a perfume.

[0091] - One or more humectant(s), such as polyols (glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, propanediol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexanediol, sorbitol, maltitol), sugars, glycosaminoglycans such as hyaluronic acid and its salts and esters, and polyquaterniums such as lipidure PMB.

[0092] Said humectant may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.005 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0093] Said humectant is preferably sorbitol. When added in an amount ranging from about 15 to about 30% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, sorbitol acts as a texture improver and enhances the comfortable sensation of the composition. Preferably, the composition is in the form of a cleansing massaging gel. While sorbitol does not have a direct effect on the removal of keratin plugs in itself, it has an indirect effect. It enhances the rich feel of the composition, rendering the messaging of the composition more comfortable.

[0094] -one or more alcohol(s) such as monoalcohol in the form of a liquid at room temperature (25 °C), linear or branched comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alcohol is selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, pentanol, hexanol, or mixtures thereof. More preferably, the alcohol is ethanol.

[0095] Said alcohol may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0096] - One or more emollient agent(s) which may be chosen, for example, from esters such as jojoba esters, esters of fatty acids and of fatty alcohol (octyldodecyl myristate, triethylhexanoin, Dicaprylyl carbonate , Isostearyl isostearate, caprylic / capric triglyceride), butters such as shea butters (butyrospemum parkii butter extract, shea butter ethyl esters, marketed under the trade names LIPEX SHEASOFT, LIPEX SHEA-U, LIPEX SHEA, LIPEX SHEALIGHT, LIPEX SHEA TRIS) or moringa (moringa oil / hydrogenated moringa oil esters), waxes (acacia decurrens flower wax & helianthus annuus cera seed seed wax, C10-18 triglycerides), vegetable oils, phytosqualane, alkanes (undecane, tridecane)

[0097] Said emollient may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. - One or more film-forming agent(s) such as polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, gum arabic (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers extracted from the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or from the algae Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the product Filmexel®), and mixtures thereof.

[0098] Said film-forming agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0099] - One or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, pearlescent pigments, soluble dyes, preferably soluble in water. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. The mineral pigments may be chosen from zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, titanium dioxide. The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from titanium mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The water-soluble dyes may be chosen from FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

[0100] Said coloring agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1 to about 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0101] - One or more filler(s) chosen from lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride and silica

[0102] Said filler may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0103] - One or more active agent(s) of natural, biotechnological or synthetic origin having a biological activity and having an effectiveness on the skin via biological sites, for example chosen from vitamins such as vitamin C and its derivatives (ascorbyl glucoside, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate), vitamin A and its derivatives, vitamin E and its derivatives, vitamin B3 or Niacinamide, panthenol, oligo elements, allantoin, adenosine, peptides (Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide- 1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Dipeptide- 1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 marketed under the trade name NP RIGIN, MATRIXYE 3000, IDEAEIFT, EYESERYE), plants extracts (glycyrrhiza glabra extract, centella asiatica leaf extract, secale cereal seed extract), yeast extracts, alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic or lactic acid, tranexamic acid and its derivatives such as cetyl tranexamic ester etc.

[0104] Said active agent may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0105] - One or more alkaline agent(s), herein acting as neutralizing agent(s) chosen from tromethamine (tris, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)propane-l,3-diol , CAS 77-86-1), a hydroxide of alkali metal (such as sodium hydroxide) or alkaline earth metal, amines such as triethanolamine, basic amino acids such as arginine.

[0106] Said alkaline agent(s), herein acting as neutralizing agent(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 5% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0107] Said alkaline agent is preferably tris. It may be added as a neutralizing agent for acrylic acid polymers. When added, the composition is preferably is in the form of a cleansing massaging gel in order to obtain a more bouncy and soft gel texture.

[0108] - One or more thickener(s) or gelling agent(s) of the water phase cellulose derivatives (such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose), gums (such as xanthan, guar, carob, locust bean, alginates, carrageenans, sclerotium), clays (laponite), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homo- and copolymers, hydrophilic or amphiphilic, of acryloylmethylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and / or acrylamide and / or acrylic acid and / or salts or esters of acrylic acid (such as Ammonium AMP / VP Copolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Sodium Acrylate / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, carbomer, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, sodium poly acrylate).

[0109] Said thickener(s) or gelling agent(s) of the water phase may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0110] Other additives commonly used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular preservatives, antioxidants or perfumes well known in the technical field.

[0111] - One or more antimicrobial agent(s) may be added, such as chlorephenesin.Said antimicrobial agent (s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight, preferably from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0112] According to an embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the following components (A) to (E):

[0113] - Component (A): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0114] - Component (B): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0115] - Component (C): a liquid oil;

[0116] - Component (D): sodium surfactin and

[0117] - Component (E): water phase, wherein a total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 2 to 4% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the mass ratio of Component (C) to a total amount of Components (A) and (B) ((C) / (A)+(B)) is from 0.05 to 0.4, and wherein Component (A) and Component (B) have a mixed HLB of from 12.4 to 14.2; wherein a total amount of Component (D) is from 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0118] According to an embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the following components (A) to (E):

[0119] - Component (A): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0120] - Component (B): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0121] - Component (C): a liquid oil;

[0122] - Component (D): sodium surfactin and

[0123] - Component (E): water phase, wherein a total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 4 to 6% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the mass ratio of Component (C) to a total amount of Components (A) and (B) ((C) / (A)+(B)) is from 0.05 to 0.4, and wherein Component (A) and Component (B) have a mixed HLB of from 12.4 to 14.2; wherein a total amount of Component (D) is from 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition wherein Component (E) comprises sorbitol.

[0124] According to an embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises the following components (A) to (E):

[0125] - Component (A): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0126] - Component (B): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;

[0127] - Component (C): a liquid oil;

[0128] - Component (D): sodium surfactin and

[0129] - Component (E): water phase, wherein a total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 10 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the mass ratio of Component (C) to a total amount of Components (A) and (B) ((C) / (A)+(B)) is from 0.05 to 0.4, and wherein Component (A) and Component (B) have a mixed HLB of from 12.4 to 14.2; wherein a total amount of Component (D) is from 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[0130] The person skilled in the art is able to choose, among all of these possible additives, both the nature and the quantity of those which will be added to the composition, so that the latter retains all of its properties.

[0131] The cosmetic composition may be transparent.

[0132] The cosmetic composition described above may be a cleansing cosmetic composition.

[0133] By applying the composition via massaging, the keratin plugs are more exposed to it and thus more efficiently removed.

[0134] The cosmetic composition may be a make-up cleansing product for skin, and more preferably a make-up cleansing product for body and / or face. It may be chosen from a cleansing water, a concentrated cleansing water or a cleansing gel, preferably a body and / or face cleansing massaging gel.

[0135] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be used in order to enhance the cleansing selectivity towards oleic acid.

[0136] In particular, the cleansing selectivity is enhanced without removing epidermal surface lipids of the skin.

[0137] Examples

[0138] Example 1A - Process of preparation of a cosmetic composition of the invention

[0139] (A) Phase is heated to 70°C and uniformly stirred.

[0140] (B) Phase is heated to 50°C and uniformly stirred.

[0141] Add room temperature (C)phase to (B)phase and stir uniformly.

[0142] Add (B) + (C) phase to (A) phase and stir uniformly.

[0143] Add (D)phase to (A)+(B)+(C)phase and stir uniformly.

[0144] The water-based composition is thus obtained.

[0145] Example IB - Process of preparation of a cosmetic composition of the invention

[0146]

[0147] (A) Phase is heated to 70°C and uniformly stirred.

[0148] (B) Phase is heated to 50°C and uniformly stirred.

[0149] Add room temperature (C)phase to (B)phase and stir uniformly.

[0150] Add (B) + (C) phase to (A) phase and stir uniformly.

[0151] Add (D)phase to (A)+(B)+(C)phase and stir uniformly.

[0152] A water-based composition is thus obtained.

[0153] Example 1C - Process of preparation of a cosmetic composition of the invention

[0154] (A) Phase is heated to 70°C and uniformly stirred.

[0155] (B) Phase is heated to 50°C and uniformly stirred.

[0156] Add room temperature (C)phase to (B)phase and stir uniformly.

[0157] Add (B) + (C) phase to (A) phase and stir uniformly.

[0158] Add (D)phase to (A)+(B)+(C)phase and stir uniformly.

[0159] Example 2 - Assessment

[0160] * Mixed HLB: HLB refers to the value measured by Griffin's calculation method, and the mixed HLB of component (A) and component (B) is calculated using additivity. That is, the mixed HLB is the weighted average of component (A) and component (B).

[0161] ** Stability: 30g of the composition put into 50mL vial, store at 5, 20 and 40°C for 3 months and was observed the appearance.

[0162] 1 : No change in appearance

[0163] 2: Appearance changes such as separation and / or cloudiness *** Selective detergency: 30 g of the composition put into 50 mL vial, 0.25 g of a colored oil (oleic acid, squalane, isononyl isononanoate+dimethicone) was added, and the appearance was observed one day later

[0164] 1 : Oleic acid spontaneously emulsifies and other oils diffuse throughout the composition

[0165] 2: All oils diffuse throughout the composition

[0166] 3: All oils do not diffuse throughout the composition

[0167] **** Cleansability: A mascara (waterproof type) was applied to BIOSKIN and left for 2 hours. The mascara was wiped off three times with the composition soaked on a cotton pad. The results of visually observing how the mascara removed off were evaluated according to the evaluation criteria and determined as the cleansability.

[0168] 1: Well removed

[0169] 2: Removed

[0170] 3: Could not remove

[0171] ***** Stickiness after wiping off: The composition soaked in cotton was applied to the face by five expert panelists, and the skin feel at the time of drying was evaluated according to the following four grades. The evaluation is the average of evaluations by 5 panelists, and if it is 2.5 or more, it can be evaluated as less sticky.

[0172] 4: Not sticky

[0173] 3: Slightly sticky

[0174] 2: Feel sticky

[0175] 1 : Feel quite sticky

[0176] The results of Examples EX according to the invention are given in the Tables below.

[0177] Examples EX are all prepared according to the process steps of example 1 A and adapted to each composition.

[0178] Overall, it results that the specific combination of compounds (A) to (E) in the specific %wt relative to the total weight of the composition leads to a cosmetic composition that is stable over time as no change in appearance happens when stored at 5, 20 and 40°C for 3 months, that allows selective detergency towards unwanted impurities while leaving the epidermal surface lipids of the skin unaffected, that provides efficient cleansability by efficiently removing the unwanted impurities, while, at the same time, avoiding stickiness after wiping off. These results can only be obtained upon using the cosmetic composition of the invention.

[0179] The results of Comparative Examples CEX are given in the Tables below. Comparative Examples CEX are all prepared according to the process steps of example 1A and adapted to each composition.

[0180] Comparative examples CEX9-CEX13 show a poor performance for each of the tested parameters.

[0181] Table 2 - Influence of the total amount of Component (A) and Component (B ) on cleansability

[0182] A total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) lower than l%wt has a negative impact on the cleansability of the cosmetic composition.

[0183] Table 3 - Influence of the total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) on stickiness after wiping off

[0184] A total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) higher than 15%wt has a negative impact on the stickiness after wiping off of the cosmetic composition.

[0185] Table 4 - Influence of the presence of Component (C ) on cleansability

[0186] The absence of Component (C) has a negative impact on the cleansability of the cosmetic composition.

[0187] Table 5 - Influence of the amount of Component (D) on the stickiness after wiping off An amount of Component (D) greater than 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition has a negative impact on the stickiness after wiping off of the cosmetic composition.

[0188] Table 6 - Influence of the absence of Component (D) on the selective detergency

[0189] The absence of_Component (D) has a negative impact on the selective detergency of the cosmetic composition.

[0190] Similar results were obtained when the compositions of the examples according to the invention EX were prepared according to the process steps of example IB and 1C.

[0191] Example 3 : effect on keratin plugs

[0192] Artificial keratin plugs were prepared according to the compositions below:

[0193] Composition of artificial keratin plug : 50% wt artificial sebum and 50%wt keratin powder, based on the total weight of the artificial keratin plug.

[0194] Composition of artificial sebum : 48% wt of soybean oil, 13% wt of oleic acid, 12% wt of myristic acid, 12% wt of squalene, 10% wt of paraffin wax, 3%wt of oleic acid monoglyceride, 2%wt of cholesterol stearate, based on the total weight of the artificial keratin sebum.

[0195] The disintegration of the artificial keratin plug in the presence of compositions according to Example 1A, IB and 1C, respectively, was observed using two methods.

[0196] Method 1 : Observation of the contact surface between artificial sebum and artificial keratin plug and the cleansing compositions

[0197] 1. Heat artificial sebum and artificial keratin plug separately to 70°C, put 3g of each into a separate glass bottle, and let them cool overnight at 5°C. 2. Put 5g of cleansing composition according to Example IB in each bottle and closed the lid.

[0198] 3. Leave it at 37°C, shake it 10 times every time (initial time, after 3 hours and after 12 hours), and take a photo of the appearance after.

[0199] Figures 2A, 2C, 2E are photographs obtained of the contact surface between artificial keratin plug and the cleansing composition according to Example IB according to the invention at three different moments : initial contact time, after 3 hours and after 12 hours.

[0200] Figures 2B, 2D, 2F are photographs obtained of the contact surface between artificial sebum and the cleansing composition according to Example IB according to the invention at three different moments : initial contact time, after 3 hours and after 12 hours.

[0201] When the cleansing composition is brought into contact with each dirt model the composition, thanks to its BCME structure, penetrated the dirt model (both artificial sebum and artificial keratin plug) and disintegrating the solids. In particular, the artificial keratin plug was observed to disperse into the cleansing composition.

[0202] Method 2 : Microscopic observation of the contact surface between artificial keratin plug and cleansing composition

[0203] 1. Warm the artificial keratin plug to 70°C, drop one drop onto a slide glass, and let it cool at room temperature.

[0204] 2. Crush with a cover glass.

[0205] 3. Use two additional 0.15 mm thick cover glasses as spacers between the slide glass and the cover glass and placed on both ends of the drop of artificial keratin plug so that the artificial keratin plug would have enough contact space with the cleansing composition

[0206] 4. Inject 0,2 mL of cleansing composition from the side of the cover glass.

[0207] 5. Microscopic* observation (x200) at room temperature.

[0208] *Digital microscope (VHX-6000 / KEYENCE)

[0209] The composition of Example 1A was observed to quickly penetrate the artificial keratin plug, sucking up the oleic acid and forming an emulsion, (Fig 3A).

[0210] The composition of Example IB was observed to quickly penetrate the artificial keratin plug and scrape it off. In particular, the artificial keratin plug was observed to swell and disintegrate from within (Fig. 3B).

[0211] The composition of Example 1C did not penetrate quickly because of its higher viscosity, but it was observed to form an emulsion in the same way as the composition of Example 1A. The artificial keratin plug easily collapsed when moved slightly (Fig. 3C). A further investigation took place using human keratin plugs. Keratin plugs were collected using a pore patch removal. The removed keratin plugs were thinly sliced using a microtome and crushed and the sections were observed under a microscope in the same way as the artificial keratin plugs of Method 2 described above.

[0212] Just like with the artificial keratin plug, the cleansing compositions of examples 1A and IB penetrated quickly and the formation of an emulsion was observed as well as the collapse of keratin plugs. The cleansing composition of example 1C was also observed to efficiently collapse keratin plugs.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A cosmetic composition comprising the following components (A) to (E):- Component (A): a poly glycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 8 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7 ;- Component (B): a polyglycerol fatty acid ester made from a fatty acid having 10 carbon atoms and a poly glycerol having a degree of polymerization of glycerol of from 5 to 7;- Component (C): a liquid oil;- Component (D): sodium surfactin and- Component (E): water phase, wherein a total amount of Component (A) and Component (B) is from 1 to 15% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition, and wherein the mass ratio of Component (C) to a total amount of Components (A) and (B) ((C) / (A)+(B)) is from 0.05 to 0.4, and wherein Component (A) and Component (B) have a mixed HLB of from 12.4 to 14.2; wherein a total amount of Component (D) is from 0.2 to 2.5% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of said Component (E) is 75%wt by mass or more, preferably 88.5% by mass or more of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0% by mass as Component (F) of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein said Component (F) is a poly glycerol alkyl ether.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein alkyl is chosen from an alkyl chain containing between 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably between 10 to 14 carbon atoms.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the total content of said Component (C) is between 0.15% to 1.2% by mass of the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, which is transparent.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 is a cleansing cosmetic composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to claim 8 is a make-up cleansing product for skin, and more preferably a make-up cleansing product for body and / or face.

10. Use of the cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 in order to enhance the cleansing selectivity towards oleic acid.

11. Use according to claim 10, wherein the cleansing selectivity is enhanced without removing epidermal surface lipids of the skin.

12. Use of the cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, in order to remove keratin plugs.

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