Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic inulin, a glucamide and an anionic surfactant, and cosmetic treatment process

Abstract

A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, notably for cleansing keratin fibres, comprising one or more cationic inulin polymers, one or more glucamide compounds and one or more anionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic inulin, a glucamide and an anionic surfactant, and cosmetic treatment process

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising specific cationic polymers in combination with specific nonionic surfactants and anionic surfactants. The invention also relates to a process for the treatment, notably washing, of keratin materials, notably the hair, using said composition.

[0002] For cleansing and / or washing the hair, it is known practice to use liquid detergent hair compositions (or shampoos), based essentially on conventional surfactants, which are notably anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric, but generally anionic. These compositions are applied to wet hair and the foam generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands makes it possible, after rinsing with water, to remove the diverse types of soiling initially present on the hair.

[0003] Among the anionic surfactants that may be used, mention may notably be made of sulfate-based surfactants, such as alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate salts. These surfactants are known to generate abundant foam, making it possible to easily remove soiling by dispersing it in water, leading to a feeling of cleanliness.

[0004] In order to preserve natural resources, and notably water, it is advantageous to propose compositions that make it possible to reduce the amount of water needed, notably during use of the product, in particular for rinsing out said product. In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say products of which the design and development take account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern for contributing towards meeting global challenges.

[0005] It therefore proves essential to propose compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that allow these environmental issues to be met. In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturalness index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0006] There is therefore a real need to propose cosmetic compositions that are easy to rinse out, notably in order to save water during rinsing, while retaining both good use properties, such as a good intrinsic washing power and good foam quality (abundance notably), and excellent cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, disentangling, and a smooth, cleaner and unladen feel, of the treated hair.

[0007] It is possible to solve these problems and achieve these aims by virtue of the present invention, one subject of which is notably a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:

[0008] - one or more cationic inulin polymers in a total content ranging from 0.02% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0009] - one or more glucamide compounds and

[0010] - one or more anionic surfactants.

[0011] The composition according to the invention is particularly easy to rinse out and makes it possible to substantially reduce the environmental impact thereof in comparison with a conventional washing composition, notably in terms of saving water.

[0012] It has better rinsability in comparison with customary compositions, while retaining good use properties; notably, it makes it possible to generate an adequate amount of good quality foam, in particular having a pleasant creaminess (creamy foam).

[0013] In addition, it makes it possible to give good cosmetic properties to the treated hair, while maintaining a clean and unladen feel.

[0014] In the present description, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0015] - the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be replaced therewith;

[0016] - the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be replaced therewith, and implies that the limits are included;

[0017] - the term “keratin materials” denotes keratin fibres, and in particular the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes or the scalp;

[0018] - according to the present application, the term “keratin fibres” denotes human keratin fibres and more particularly the hair.Cationic inulin

[0019] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more inulin base polymers, functionalized with one or more cationic groups; these polymers may be referred to in the remainder of the present description as “cationic inulins” or “cationic inulin polymers”.

[0020] Inulins are polysaccharides (simple sugars of fructose type linked together) and can be produced naturally by many types of plants.

[0021] Inulins are polymers composed mainly of a chain of fructoses ending in a (2→1) bond linking an α-D-glucose to this chain. The fructose units in inulins are joined by a β(2→1) glycosidic bond.

[0022] Inulin can be represented by the following formula:

[0023] in which n generally ranges from 2 to 60.

[0024] The cationic group(s) borne by the inulin polymer may be cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give cationic groups; advantageously, this or these groups are of quaternary ammonium type.

[0025] The cationic inulins according to the invention do not comprise any anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized to give anionic groups. In addition, they are not silicone-based (they do not comprise any Si-O units).

[0026] The cationic inulin according to the invention therefore bears one or more cationic groups, preferably of quaternary ammonium type, generally connected to the inulin polymer by one of its pendent oxygen atoms.

[0027] The cationic groups of quaternary ammonium type are advantageously of formula -O-X-N+R1R2R3, A-, in which:

[0028] O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,

[0029] X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group,

[0030] R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; and

[0031] A is a cosmetically acceptable counterion.

[0032] Preferentially, R1 = R2 = R3 = methyl.

[0033] Preferentially, A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0034] Preferentially, X is a divalent hydroxyl radical, in particular a divalent hydroxypropyl (hydroxypropylene) radical, which is preferably linear.

[0035] The preferred cationic inulins according to the invention may be chosen from inulin polymers bearing quaternary ammonium cationic functions of formula: -O-X-N+(CH3)3, A-in which:

[0036] O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,

[0037] X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, and

[0038] A is a halide, in particular a chloride.

[0039] A particularly preferred cationic inulin is represented by the following formula:

[0040] in which n generally ranges from 2 to 60.

[0041] Mention will most particularly be made of the polymer bearing the INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.

[0042] Preferably, the cationic inulins according to the invention have a weight-average molecular weight (Mw) that may range from 500 to 30 000 daltons, better still ranging from 1000 to 15 000 daltons, even better still from 2000 to 8000 daltons.

[0043] The composition according to the invention comprises the cationic inulin(s) in a total content ranging from 0.02% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Glucamide compounds

[0044] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more glucamide compounds.

[0045] The glucamide compounds that can be used according to the invention are notably described in patent applications WO 92 06154, US 5194639 and DE 44 43 645.

[0046] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl glucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (counting the carbon atom of the carbonyl -C(O)- group), better still ranging from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0047] Preferentially, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl methylglucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (counting the carbon atom of the carbonyl group), better still ranging from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0048] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those of the following general formula (A):

[0049] in which:

[0050] - the Gl–N group represents a glucamine (N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine),

[0051] - R1represents a C1-C2 alkyl radical, preferably a methyl,

[0052] - R2represents a linear or branched C3-C29, preferably C5-C19, better still C7-C13, alkyl or alkenyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl –OH groups.

[0053] Preferably, the glucamine (or Gl-N group) represents a monovalent CH2(OH)-CH(OH)-CH(OH)-CH(OH)-CH(OH)-CH2-N- radical.

[0054] Preferentially, in formula (A) above:

[0055] - R1represents a methyl, and

[0056] - R2represents a linear C3-C29, preferably C5-C19, better still C7-C13, alkyl radical.

[0057] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two glucamide compounds; preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises two glucamide compounds.

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms “glucamide” and “glucamine” encompass all of the respective isomers thereof.

[0059] Among the glucamide compounds that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made, alone or as a mixture, of:

[0060] - myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide, caproyl methylglucamide, cocoyl methylglucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methylglucamide, sunfloweroyl methylglucamide,

[0061] - oleoyl methylglucamide oleate, stearoyl methylglucamide stearate, tocopheryl methylglucamide succinate.

[0062] Preference is most particularly given to the glucamide compounds chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide, caproyl methylglucamide, cocoyl methylglucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methylglucamide and sunfloweroyl methylglucamide, and most particularly chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide and caproyl methylglucamide.

[0063] Among the mixtures of glucamide compounds, mention may be made of lauroyl / myristoyl methylglucamide and capryloyl / caproyl methylglucamide, which are particularly preferred.

[0064] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0065] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) of formula (A), present in the composition, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0066] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compounds chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide and caproyl methylglucamide in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Additional nonionic surfactants

[0067] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additional nonionic surfactants other than the glucamide compounds above, notably such as those described in the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.

[0068] As examples of additional nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0069] - oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;

[0070] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8-C40alcohols, preferably comprising one or two C8-C30fatty chains;

[0071] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C8-C30fatty acid amides;

[0072] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0073] - preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of sorbitol;

[0074] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol;

[0075] - C8-C30fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0076] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8-C30)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated and which comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;

[0077] - saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0078] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide.

[0079] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units. The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide ranges preferably from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges notably from 1 to 50, better still from 1 to 10.

[0080] Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.

[0081] Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100, better still from 2 to 50.

[0082] As examples of glycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

[0083] Mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

[0084] Among the glycerolated alcohols, preference is more particularly given to using the C8to C10alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10to C12alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.

[0085] As examples of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated esters of C8-C30, better still C10-C24, acids comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.

[0086] The nonionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycosides type may advantageously correspond to the formula R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which:

[0087] - R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical, the linear or branched alkyl radical of which comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0088] - R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;

[0089] - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose, fructose or galactose, better still glucose;

[0090] - t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3, even better still 0;

[0091] - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4, the mean degree of polymerization (v) more particularly being between 1 and 2.

[0092] The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type, preferably of 1-4 type.

[0093] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant.

[0094] The additional nonionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0095] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, notably at least one C8-C20, notably C10-C18, alkyl chain;

[0096] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of (poly)glycerol, notably monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;

[0097] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated, and

[0098] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0099] Preferentially, the additional nonionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0100] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol and

[0101] - (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.

[0102] Very preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional nonionic surfactants, which are advantageously chosen, alone or as a mixture, from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol; better still from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even better still monoglyceryl oleate.

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional nonionic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional nonionic surfactant(s) chosen, alone or as a mixture, from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol; better still monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or monoglyceryl oleate; even better still monoglyceryl oleate, when they are present, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Anionic surfactants

[0105] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0106] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more sulfate (or sulfate-based) anionic surfactants.

[0107] The term “anionic surfactant” means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.

[0108] In the present description, a species is termed as being “anionic” when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to give a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.

[0109] In a manner knownper se, anionic surfactants may comprise sulfate, sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) groups (or functions), alone or as a mixture.

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “sulfate anionic surfactant” means an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-), but not comprising a carboxylate function or a sulfonate function.

[0111] The sulfate anionic surfactants may thus be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 24, better still from 10 to 20, or even from 10 to 16 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be (poly)oxyalkylenated, notably (poly)oxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0112] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt, alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts.

[0113] Examples of amino alcohol salts that may be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

[0114] Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

[0115] Preferably, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0116] - alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof;

[0117] - C6-C30alkyl ether sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also the salts thereof;

[0118] said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0119] Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of alkyl sulfates or of alkyl ether sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates; advantageously C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates; and notably the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of lauryl sulfate or of lauryl ether sulfate, such as sodium lauryl sulfate or sodium lauryl ether sulfate.

[0120] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants chosen from sulfonate and / or carboxylic (or carboxylate) anionic surfactants. A mixture of these anionic surfactants may of course be used.

[0121] It is understood in the present description that:

[0122] - the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions;

[0123] - the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3–), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions.

[0124] The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO-).

[0125] They may be chosen from the following compounds: acyl glycinates, acyl lactylates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, acyl alaninates, acyl isethionates, alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-C30aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0126] Use may also be made of C6-C24alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and the salts thereof.

[0127] Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may most particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and the salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the AKYPO names.

[0128] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

[0129] R1–(OC2H4)n–OCH2COOA (1)

[0130] in which:

[0131] - R1represents a linear or branched C6-C24alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical or an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2denoting a linear or branched C9-C21alkyl or alkenyl radical;

[0132] preferably, R1is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,

[0133] - n is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,

[0134] - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

[0135] Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds having different groups R1.

[0136] The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:

[0137] - R1denotes a C12-C14alkyl, cocoyl, lauroyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,

[0138] - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

[0139] - n ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

[0140] Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (1), in which R1denotes a C12alkyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n ranges from 2 to 10.

[0141] Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0142] - acyl glutamates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl glutamates, such as stearoyl glutamates and cocoyl glutamates, and in particular disodium cocoyl glutamate and disodium stearoyl glutamate;

[0143] - acyl alaninates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl alaninates, such as cocoyl alaninates, and in particular sodium cocoyl alaninate;

[0144] - acyl sarcosinates, notably C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl sarcosinates, such as palmitoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

[0145] - acyl lactylates, notably C12-C28, or even C14-C24, acyl lactylates, such as behenoyl lactylates and lauroyl lactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate;

[0146] - C6-C24, or even C12-C20, acyl glycinates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl glycinates, and in particular sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glycinate;

[0147] - (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and notably (C12-C20)alkyl ether carboxylates;

[0148] - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

[0149] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0150] The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3–).

[0151] They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurates, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; it being possible for these compounds to be polyoxyalkylenated, notably polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0152] Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0153] - C6-C24, notably C12-C20, alkyl sulfosuccinates, notably lauryl sulfosuccinates;

[0154] - C6-C24, notably C12-C20, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;

[0155] - (C6-C24)acyl isethionates, preferably (C12-C20)acyl isethionates, such as cocoyl and lauroyl isethionates, and in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate and sodium lauroyl isethionate;

[0156] in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.

[0157] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention may range from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 10% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Advantageously, when they are present, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants in the composition according to the invention may range from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 10% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0159] Better still, the total content of sulfate anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0160] - alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof;

[0161] - C6-C30alkyl ether sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also the salts thereof;

[0162] said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts; in the composition according to the invention may range from 2% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 8% to 18% by weight, even more preferentially from 10% to 16% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants

[0163] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0164] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.

[0165] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may notably be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0166] Mention may notably be made of the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) below:

[0167] Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(3)

[0168] in which:

[0169] - Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, which is preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

[0170] - Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

[0171] - Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;

[0172] - M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and

[0173] - X- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X- are absent;

[0174] Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)

[0175] in which:

[0176] - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';

[0177] - B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;

[0178] - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom;

[0179] - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z';

[0180] - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0181] - Ra'represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group.

[0182] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

[0183] By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.

[0184] Ra''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (5)

[0185] in which:

[0186] - Y'' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ'' or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'';

[0187] - Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

[0188] - Z'' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

[0189] - Ra''represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;

[0190] - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0191] Among the compounds of formula (5), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0192] The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) may also be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.

[0193] Preferably, when they are present, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines, compounds of formula (3) or compounds of formula (4) as defined previously.

[0194] Better still, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.

[0195] When they are present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0196] When they are present, the total content of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) chosen from (C8-C20)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Cationic surfactants

[0197] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0198] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof, and comprising at least one C6-C30, preferably C8-C30, hydrocarbon chain. Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-O groups.

[0199] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0200] As fatty amines, mention may be made of amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0201] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0202] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

[0203] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

[0204] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, mention may most particularly be made of the amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2in which:

[0205] - R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;

[0206] - R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and

[0207] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.

[0208] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0209] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.

[0210] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may quaternize in situ).

[0211] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0212] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0213] Preferably, when they are present, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from the amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, even better still from 0.2% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Other ingredients

[0214] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water or a mixture of water and of one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water, notably in a total content of between 60% and 98% by weight, preferably between 65% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 70% and 90% by weight, even better still between 75% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0216] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferentially from 4 to 5.5.

[0217] Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying a composition as defined previously to said keratin materials.

[0218] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratin materials, for example with water, is performed after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0219] A step of drying the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, notably using a heating means such as a hairdryer.

[0220] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. In these examples, the amounts are expressed as grams of active material (AM), unless otherwise mentioned.Example 1

[0221] Cosmetic composition A according to the invention and comparative cosmetic composition B are prepared using the ingredients indicated in the table below.CompositionA (invention)B (comparative)Sodium laureth sulfate13.513.5Lauroyl / myristoyl methylglucamide11Cocamidopropylbetaine0.90.9Glyceryl oleate0.40.4Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine0.30.3Hydroxypropyltrimonium inulin0.3-Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride-0.3Sodium chloride0.160.16Glutamic acid0.10.1Preserving agents, fragrancesqsqsWaterqs 100qs 100

[0222] Compositions are obtained that may be used for washing the hair as a rinse-out shampoo.A / Evaluation of the cosmetic performance

[0223] The cosmetic performance in terms of coating / laden feel provided by compositions A and B is evaluated.

[0224] Each of compositions A and B was applied to locks of wet hair (5.4 g locks, AS20 sensitized) in a proportion of 0.3 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks were rinsed without any leave-on time. Evaluation on wet hair took place.

[0225] The comparative evaluation was carried out blind by 3 experts. A score of 0 was awarded to locks treated with comparative composition B. A score ranging from -3 to +3 in increments of 0.5 was awarded to the locks treated with composition A according to the invention.

[0226] Each whole score corresponds to the following elements:

[0227] + / - 3: very large difference

[0228] + / - 2: large difference

[0229] + / - 1: moderate difference

[0230] 0: equivalent (no difference).

[0231] The laden nature of the feel was evaluated in the following manner: the expert takes the lock of hair in their hand and slides their hand from the root to the tip in order to evaluate the presence of a deposit on the hair: the greater the deposit, the more laden and therefore less natural the feel.

[0232] The score is positive if the feel is more laden; the score is negative if the feel is less laden (more natural, cleaner).

[0233] The following results are obtained (mean of 3 scores):A (invention)B (comparative)Expert 1-10Expert 2-10Expert 3-10Mean-10

[0234] With the application of composition A according to the invention, it can be observed that the hair has a more uniform and more natural feel that is cleaner (less laden) all along the lock, in comparison with the comparative composition B.B / Evaluation of the rinsability performance

[0235] In order to evaluate the rinsability performance, three drops of artificial sebum were applied using a pipette to locks of hair (5.4 g, AS20 sensitized) and distributed over the whole length of the lock. The locks were then wetted and then wrung out.

[0236] 0.25 g of composition to be tested was then applied to the lock. The lock was then rinsed until the feeling when touching the lock no longer changed, that is to say when there was no more sebum on the lock.

[0237] The time required for rinsing each lock was compared to that obtained with a reference shampoo (Garnier Fructis Aloe Hydrabomb). The shorter the rinsing time, the easier the rinsing is.

[0238] Each expert (3 experts) awarded a score corresponding to the rinsing times, ranging from -3 to +3, with an increment of 0.5, to the locks to be evaluated, using the same scoring scale as described previously. A score of 0 is awarded to the reference composition.

[0239] The following results are obtained:RinsabilityA (invention)B (comparative)ReferenceExpert 1+1-2.50Expert 2+0.5-1.50Expert 3+1-20Mean+0.83-20Standard deviation0.290.50

[0240] It is noted that composition A according to the invention is easier to rinse out than the comparative composition and the reference composition.

Claims

Cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, comprising:- one or more cationic inulin polymers in a total content ranging from 0.02% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,- one or more glucamide compounds and- one or more anionic surfactants.Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the cationic inulin polymer bears one or more cationic functions of quaternary ammonium type, advantageously of the -O-X-N+R1R2R3, A-type, in which:O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group,R1, R2, R3, which may be identical or different, are linear or branched hydrocarbon radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably methyl; andA is a cosmetically acceptable counterion;in particular of the -O-X-N+(CH3)3, A-type, in which:O represents a pendent oxygen atom of the inulin polymer,X is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical, preferably of alkylene type, comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by an OH group, andA is a halide, in particular a chloride.Composition according to either of the preceding claims, in which the cationic inulin is chosen from the polymers having the INCI name: Hydroxypropyltrimonium Inulin.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic inulin(s) in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the glucamide compound(s) are chosen from acyl glucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms; preferentially, the glucamide compounds are chosen from acyl methylglucamides, preferably having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, even better still from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the glucamide compound(s) are chosen from those of the following general formula (A):in which:- the Gl–N group represents a glucamine (N being the nitrogen atom of the glucamine),- R1represents a C1-C2alkyl radical, preferably a methyl,- R2represents a linear or branched C3-C29, preferably C5-C19, better still C7-C13, alkyl or alkenyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl –OH groups;preferably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristoyl methylglucamide, lauroyl methylglucamide, capryloyl methylglucamide, caproyl methylglucamide, cocoyl methylglucamide, nonanoyl methylglucamide, oleyl methylglucamide and sunfloweroyl methylglucamide, oleoyl methylglucamide oleate, stearoyl methylglucamide stearate, tocopheryl methylglucamide succinate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of glucamide compound(s) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and preferentially from 0.2% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional nonionic surfactants, notably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated C8to C40alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, notably at least one C8-C20, notably C10-C18, alkyl chain;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol, notably monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate;- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8to C30acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated, and- (C8-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide, and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30acids and of (poly)glycerol; better still from monoglyceryl oleate and / or polyglyceryl caprates, in particular PG-4 caprate and / or glyceryl oleate; even better still monoglyceryl oleate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, in particular one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, notably chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:- alkyl sulfates, notably C6-C30, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl sulfates, and also the salts thereof;- C6-C30alkyl ether sulfates, better still C8-C24, even better still C10-C20, or even C10-C16, alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and also the salts thereof;said salts being chosen in particular from alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts or amino alcohol salts.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, notably chosen from:(i) the compounds of formulae (3), (4) and (5) below:Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X-(3)in which:- Rarepresents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH, which is preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;- Rbrepresents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and- Rcrepresents a carboxymethyl group;- M+represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and- X-represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C1-C4)alkyl sulfates, (C1-C4)alkyl- or (C1-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+and X-are absent;Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (4)in which:- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';- B' represents the group -(CH2)zY', with z = 1 or 2;- X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2-COOZ' or a hydrogen atom;- Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z';- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra'represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17group;Ra''-NHCH(Y'')-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (5)in which:- Y'' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ'' or -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'';- Rdand Re, independently of each other, represent a C1to C4alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;- Z'' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;- Ra''represents a C10to C30alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra''-COOH which is preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut kernel oil;- n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3;(ii) (C8-C20)alkylbetaines, (C8-C20)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C20)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C20)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines; and notably cocobetaine and cocoamidopropylbetaine.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, preferably chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof; in particular from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR''N(R')2in which:- R represents a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R', which may be identical or different, represent a substituted or unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, notably in a total content of between 60% and 98% by weight, preferably between 65% and 95% by weight, preferentially between 70% and 90% by weight, even better still between 75% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Process for the cosmetic treatment, preferably cleansing and / or washing, of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12 to said keratin materials.

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