Non-greasy refreshing stable composition with large amount of water

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a1) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less; (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4; (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; (d) at least one oil; and (e) water, wherein the amount of the (e) water is more than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. The composition according to the present invention is stable although the composition includes a large amount of water, and can provide a refreshing feeling such as water-splashing feel, as well as a reduced or non-greasy feeling.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION NON-GREASY REFRESHING STABLE COMPOSITION

[0003] WITH LARGE AMOUNT OF WATER TECHNICAL FIELD

[0004] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, which includes a large amount of water but is stable, and can provide a comfortable texture.

[0005] BACKGROUND ART

[0006] Imparting a comfortable texture to skin is one of the key features of cosmetic products, in particular skincare cosmetic products.

[0007] Especially, a refreshing feeling (caused by, for example, a texture transformation which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as the collapse of the structure of the composition which may allow liquid to flow out from the composition) such as a water-splashing feel, during of application, as well as a non-greasy feeling after application, are still needed for consumer satisfaction on use.

[0008] It should be noted that a composition which is unstable and easily causes a collapse of the structure of the composition often provides a comfortable texture. This means that it is difficult to provide both a comfortable feel on use and good stability at the same time.

[0009] So far, several technologies regarding O / W type compositions which impart an improved texture and stability have been reported. For example, W02024 / 106520 discloses a stable composition which can provide texture transformation.

[0010] However, sufficient investigations have not yet been made for W / O type compositions which are stable and can provide a refreshing feeling during application, as well as a reduced or non-greasy feeling after application.

[0011] In addition, the formulation of environmentally-friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed considering environmental issues, is becoming a major goal in an effort to meet global challenges.

[0012] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation processes and ingredients to address these environmental concerns.

[0013] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good index of naturalness and / or materials of natural origin.

[0014] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0015] In order to provide a refreshing feeling such as a water-splashing feel, during application, it has already been proposed to increase the amount of water in W / O type composition. However, a large amount of water in a W / O type composition leads to a high proportion of aqueous droplets, which tend to be larger and also to be closer to each other. There is thus, for these compositions, an increased risk of coalescence between the droplets, leading to destabilization of the composition.

[0016] An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can provide a refreshing feeling, as well as a reduced or non-greasy feeling, despite the composition including a large amount of water.

[0017] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:

[0018] (al ) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0019] (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4;

[0020] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0021] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides;

[0022] (d) at least one oil; and

[0023] (e) water,

[0024] wherein

[0025] the amount of the (e) water is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 55% by weight, and more preferably more than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0026] The (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid esters, preferably esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and of (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyglyceiyl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

[0027] The amount of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0028] The (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid esters, preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iii) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

[0029] The amount of the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0030] The difference in the HLB values of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid and the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

[0031] The (b) lipophilic thickener may be selected from non- wax lipophilic thickeners, preferably nonwax lipophilic organic thickeners, and more preferably dextrin esters of fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate.

[0032] The amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] The (c) hydrophilic thickener may be selected from nonionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, and preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof.

[0034] The amount of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils may be 0.85 or more, preferably 0.90 or more, and more preferably 0.95 or more.

[0035] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5%> to 25%> by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one powder. The (f) powder may be selected from fillers, preferably from the group consisting of starches, silicas, celluloses and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of com starch, porous silica, porous cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

[0037] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin material.

[0038] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0039] After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a stable composition which can provide a refreshing feeling, as well as a reduced or non-greasy feeling, despite the composition including a large amount of water.

[0040] Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:

[0041] (al ) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0042] (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4;

[0043] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0044] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides;

[0045] (d) at least one oil; and

[0046] (e) water,

[0047] wherein

[0048] the amount of the (e) water is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 55% by weight, and more preferably more than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0049] The composition according to the present invention is stable although the composition includes a large amount of water, and can provide a refreshing feeling such as water-splashing feel, as well as a reduced or non-greasy feeling.

[0050] The composition according to the present invention is stable just after the preparation of the composition and for a long time after the preparation of the composition, even under temperature changes from a cool to hot temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time, and can be stored for a long period of time even under temperature changes occurring in summer.

[0051] The composition according to the present invention can provide a refreshing feeling such as watersplashing feel, preferably during application.

[0052] The composition according to the present invention can provide texture transformation during application, preferably at the early stage of application. The texture transformation here means a change in texture from, for example, a gel or cream to a liquid, which corresponds to the change in physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which could allow liquid to flow out from the composition. The texture transformation can provide a refreshing feeling.

[0053] The composition according to the present invention can also provide a reduced or non-greasy feeling, preferably after application.

[0054] The term “greasy” here means a property which provides an oily feeling to the skin.

[0055] The composition according to the present includes (d) oil, the composition can cause oily or greasy feeling after application.

[0056] However, the composition according to the present invention can provide no or reduced oily or greasy feeling, although the composition includes the (d) oil.

[0057] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide a comfortable texture, in particular excellent feeling to touch during and after application of the composition.

[0058] In addition, the composition according to the present invention includes a very limited or no amount of silicone.

[0059] Further, the composition according to the present invention may include a very limited or no amount of surfactant(s) including at least one polyoxyalkylene moiety such as polyoxyethylene moiety such as polyethyleneglycol (PEG)-based surfactant.

[0060] Furthermore, the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and / or the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be biodegradable.

[0061] Thus, the composition according to the present invention is environmentally-friendly. Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention and the like will be explained in a more detailed manner.

[0062] [Composition]

[0063] The composition according to the present invention includes:

[0064] (al ) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0065] (a2) at least one second polyglyceiyl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4;

[0066] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0067] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides;

[0068] (d) at least one oil; and

[0069] (e) water,

[0070] wherein

[0071] the amount of the (e) water is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 55% by weight, and more preferably more than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0072] (First Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)

[0073] The composition according to the present invention comprises (al) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less. A single type of such a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, or two or more different types of such polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

[0074] The (al) first poly glyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.

[0075] It is preferable that the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is biodegradable, and preferably is highly biodegradable or has high biodegradability. Here, the term “highly biodegradable” or “high biodegradability” means the biodegradability classified as “readily biodegradable” in accordance with the testing methodology according to OECD Biodegradation Test Method 30 IB, 301C or 301F, preferably OECD 301C.

[0076] The (al) first poly glyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 1 or more, preferably 2 or more, and more preferably 3 or more.

[0077] The (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of from 1 to 4, preferably from 2 to 4, more preferably from 3 to 4.

[0078] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated with the formula HLB=20*(l-S / A), where S is the saponification number of the ester and A is the neutralization number of the fatty acid.

[0079] If two or more (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. The (al) first polyglyceryl faty acid ester may be a polyglyceryl non-polymeric fatty acid ester or a polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid ester. The “non-polymeric fatty acid” and “polymeric fatty acid” here mean a non-polymerized fatty acid and a polymerized fatty acid, respectively. The “polymeric fatty acid” encompasses, for example, a polycondensate of hydroxyacids, in which each hydroxyacid has 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms.

[0080] It is preferable that the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid ester.

[0081] It is more preferable the (al) first poly glyceryl faty acid ester is selected from esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids.

[0082] The (i-1) polyglycerol may be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0083]

[0084] in which “n” denotes the degree of condensation, and may range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, the “n” denotes 5.

[0085] It is preferable that the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 10 or less glycerol units, preferably 8 or less glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or less glycerol units. It is in particular preferable that the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 3 to 6 glycerol units.

[0086] The (ii-1) polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids is a polymer of the hydroxyacids.

[0087] In this embodiment, the faty acid moiety of the (al) first polyglyceryl faty acid ester may be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer may be a polycondensate of the fatty acids which can be formed by the reaction of the carboxylic group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid and the hydroxyl group and the carboxylic acid of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids. In other words, the (al) first poly glyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids.

[0088] When the fatty acid moiety of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polymer, the faty acid moiety of the (al) first polyglyceryl faty acid ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0089] The hydroxyacid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated C10-C26, preferably C12-C24, more preferably C14-C22and even more preferably C16-C20, fatty acids having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0090] Ricinoleic acid is an example of hydroxyacids, in particular unsaturated hydroxyacids, and has a carboxylic group and a hydroxyl group. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid may be formed by the polycondensation of ricinoleic acids, which results in polyricinoleate. Thus, the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be polyglycerol polyricinoleate (PGPR), i.e., a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of polyricinoleate.

[0091] The (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) may be selected from the group consisting of PG3 polyricinoleate (HLB: 4.0), PG4 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.5), PG5 polyricinoleate (HLB: 2 or less), PG6 polyricinoleate (HLB: 3.3), and mixtures thereof.

[0092] It is preferable that the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester be selected from polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid esters, more preferably esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and of (ii-1 ) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, and even more preferably from the group consisting of polyglyceiyl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

[0093] The amount of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0094] The amount of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0095] The amount of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0096] (Second Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Ester)

[0097] The composition according to the present invention comprises (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4. A single type of such a polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, or two or more different types of such polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

[0098] The (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can function as a surfactant, in particular a nonionic surfactant.

[0099] It is preferable that the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is biodegradable, and preferably is highly biodegradable or has high biodegradability. Here, the term “highly biodegradable” or “high biodegradability” means the biodegradability classified as “readily biodegradable” in accordance with the testing methodology according to OECD Biodegradation Test Method 301 B, 301C or 301F, preferably OECD 301C.

[0100] The (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of 8 or less, preferably 7 or less, and more preferably 6 or less. The (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB value of more than 4 and 8 or less, preferably more than 4 and 7 or less, more preferably more than 4 and 6 or less.

[0101] The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. HLB values can be calculated with the formula HLB=20*(l-S / A), where S is the saponification number of the ester and A is the neutralization number of the fatty acid.

[0102] If two or more (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.

[0103] The (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polyglyceryl non-polymeric fatty acid ester or a polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid ester. The “non-polymeric fatty acid” and “polymeric fatty acid” here mean a non-polymerized fatty acid and a polymerized fatty acid, respectively. The “polymeric fatty acid” encompasses, for example, a polycondensate of hydroxyacids, in which each hydroxyacid has 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 8 or more carbon atoms.

[0104] It is preferable that the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid ester.

[0105] It is more preferable the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from esters of:

[0106] (i-2) at least one polyglycerol;

[0107] and

[0108] (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids,

[0109] (iii) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and

[0110] (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid.

[0111] The (i-2) polyglycerols may be represented by the following chemical formula:

[0112]

[0113] in which “n” denotes the degree of condensation, and may range from 1 to 9, preferably from 2 to 7, and more preferably from 3 to 5. Even more preferably, the “n” denotes 3.

[0114] It is preferable that the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 10 or less glycerol units, preferably 8 or less glycerol units, and more preferably 6 or less glycerol units. It is in particular preferable that the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester comprise 3 to 6 glycerol units.

[0115] The (ii-2) polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids is a polymer of the hydroxyacids.

[0116] In this embodiment, the fatty acid moiety of the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polymer of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. If the fatty acid has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, the polymer may be a polycondensate of the fatty acids which can be formed by the reaction of the carboxylic group or the hydroxyl group of one fatty acid and the hydroxyl group and the carboxylic acid of another fatty acid, respectively. Thus, the fatty acid moiety of the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids. In other words, the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be a polyglyceryl ester, preferably a polyglyceryl monoester, of a polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids.

[0117] When the fatty acid moiety of the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a polymer, the fatty acid moiety of the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise 25 or more carbon atoms, preferably 30 or more carbon atoms, and more preferably 35 or more carbon atoms, and may comprise 90 or less carbon atoms, preferably 72 or less carbon atoms, and more preferably 54 or less carbon atoms.

[0118] The hydroxyacid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated C10-C26, preferably C12-C24, more preferably C14-C22and even more preferably C16-C20, fatty acids having at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one carboxyl group and one hydroxyl group, and may be selected from hydroxystearic acid, and ricinoleic acid.

[0119] According to one embodiment, the (ii-2) polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids is a polymer of the hydroxyacids may be polyhydroxystearic acid such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid).

[0120] According to one embodiment, the (iii) linear or branched, aliphatic (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) monocarboxylic acid may contain from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and arachidic acid, in particular stearic acid or isostearic (Cl 8) acid.

[0121] According to one embodiment, the (iv) linear or branched, aliphatic (saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated) dicarboxylic acid may contain from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid and dodecanedioic acid, in particular sebacic (C10) acid.

[0122] According to one preferred embodiment, the above esters may be obtained by esterification of: (i-2’) polyglycerols with from 2 to 10, preferably from 3 to 8, and more preferably from 4 to 6 units of glycerol;

[0123] and

[0124] (ii-2’) polyhydroxystearic acids,

[0125] (iii’) linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acids containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and

[0126] (iv’) linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the degree of esterification of the polyglycerol mixture is between 20 % and 40 %, preferably between 40 % and 70 %.

[0127] According to a more preferred embodiment, the above (a-3-2) esters may be obtained by esterification of:

[0128] (i-2”) polyglycerol with 4 glycerol units;

[0129] and (ii-2 ’ ’ ) poly( 12-hydroxystearic acid),

[0130] (iii”) isostearic acid, and

[0131] (iv”) sebacic acid.

[0132] Such poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) esters of polyglycerol are described in application US 2005 / 0031580.

[0133] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the above ester may be a compound represented by the following chemical formula:

[0134]

[0135] wherein

[0136] PHS denotes a polyhydroxystearic acid residue, and

[0137] IS denotes an isostearic acid residue.

[0138] The above compound may be named as polyglyceryl-4

[0139] diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate. Polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate is sold, for example, under the name Isolan GPS® by the company Evonik.

[0140] It is preferable that the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid esters, more preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iii) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and even more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

[0141] The amount of the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0142] The amount of the (a2) second poly glyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] The amount of the (a2) second poly glyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0144] (HLB Difference) The difference in the HLB values of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid and the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

[0145] If the difference in the HLB values of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid and the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more, the stability under temperature changes of the composition according to the present invention can be further enhanced.

[0146] (Lipophilic Thickener)

[0147] The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one lipophilic thickener. A single type of a lipophilic thickener may be used, or two or more different types of lipophilic thickeners may be used in combination.

[0148] The (b) lipophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the fatty or oil phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0149] According to the present invention, the “lipophilic thickener” may increase the viscosity of the composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at ambient temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0150] The (b) lipophilic thickener may be selected from lipophilic organic thickeners. The lipophilic organic thickeners may be selected from dextrin esters of fatty acids, glyceryl fatty acid esters, amino acid gelling agents, sucrose fatty acid esters, fatty acids and salts thereof.

[0151] It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener is selected from dextrin esters of fatty acids.

[0152] As the dextrin esters of fatty acids, mention may be made of those chosen from dextrin monoesters and polyesters of at least one fatty acid, for example, those corresponding to the formula (II):

[0153]

[0154] wherein:

[0155] n is an integer ranging from 3 to 200, for example ranging from 20 to 150, such as ranging from 25 to 50, the radicals Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and acyl groups (R-CO-) wherein the acyl radical R is chosen from linear, branched, saturated and unsaturated hydrocarbon-based groups comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, for example from 7 to 29, for further example from 7 to 21, such as from 11 to 19, for even further example, from 13 to 17, or even 15, carbon atoms, provided that at least one of the said radicals Ri, R2 or R3 is not hydrogen.

[0156] For example, Ri, R2 and R3 may be chosen from hydrogen and acyl groups (R-CO-) wherein the acyl radical R is a hydrocarbon-based radical as defined above, provided that at least two of the said radicals Ri, R2 or R3 are identical and are not hydrogen.

[0157] The radicals R1, R2 and R3 may all comprise an acyl group (R-CO-), which is identical or different. According to one aspect, they are identical.

[0158] For instance, n may range from 25 to 50, and for example, may be equal to 38 in the formula (II) of the ester as disclosed herein.

[0159] When the radicals Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, comprise an acyl group (R-CO-), mention may be made of acyl radicals chosen from caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, ethyl-2 butyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, ethyl-2 hexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Mention may be made of at least one dextrin palmitate being used as a dextrin ester of fatty acids. This ester may be used alone or as a mixture with other esters.

[0161] The dextrin esters of fatty acids may have a degree of substitution of less than or equal to 2.5, on the basis of one glucose unit, for example ranging from 1.5 to 2.5, such as from 2 to 2.5, on the basis of one glucose unit. The weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin esters may be from 10000 to 150000, for instance, from 12000 to 100000, such as from 15000 to 80000.

[0162] Dextrin esters of fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitates, are commercially available under the name Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company Chiba Flour.

[0163] The (b) lipophilic thickener may not be a wax. Thus, in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) lipophilic thickener is not selected from waxes.

[0164] It is preferable that the (b) lipophilic thickener is selected from non-wax lipophilic thickeners, more preferably non-wax lipophilic organic thickeners, and even more preferably dextrin esters of fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate.

[0165] The amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] The amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] (Hydrophilic Thickener)

[0168] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides. If two or more such hydrophilic thickeners are used, they may be the same or different.

[0169] The (c) hydrophilic thickener can thicken the composition according to the present invention, by thickening the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

[0170] According to the present invention, the “hydrophilic thickener” may increase the viscosity of the first composition into which it is introduced by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at ambient temperature (25°C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s⁻¹ (the viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0171] The nonionic polysaccharides may be chosen from non-cellulose-based polysaccharides.

[0172] The non-cellulose-based polysaccharide here means polysaccharides which are not derived from cellulose. Thus, cellulose and derivatives thereof such as polyquatemium-10 are not within the scope of the non-cellulose-based polysaccharide.

[0173] The nonionic polysaccharide may have a linear or branched structure, preferably a linear structure. The nonionic polysaccharide may be a homo-polysaccharide comprising a single type of monosaccharide or a hetero-polysaccharide comprising two or more different types of monosaccharide.

[0174] It is preferable that the nonionic polysaccharide be biodegradable. The term “biodegradable” means that the nonionic polysaccharide can be degraded or decomposed in environments or in or on a living body due to, for example, the metabolism by the microorganisms which may be present in environments or in or on the living body. Also, the biodegradable nonionic polysaccharide may be degraded by hydrolysis.

[0175] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener, which is selected from nonionic polysaccharide, be derived from natural resources such as plants and microorganisms.

[0176] As the nonionic polysaccharide derived from plants, mention may be made of: modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals, for instance wheat, com or rice, from vegetables, for instance yellow pea, and tubers, for instance potato or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, mannans, glucomannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, xyloglucans, arabinogalactans, agar, locust bean gums or carob gums, tamarind seed gum, dextrin, galactomannans, such as tara gum, guar gums, and nonionic derivatives thereof (e.g., hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof

[0177] Among the starches that may be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising elemental moieties that are anhydroglucose units. The number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and also their degree of polymerization, can vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches.

[0178] The botanical origin of the starch molecules used may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches can be, for example, chosen from com starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0179] Starches are generally in the form of a white powder which is insoluble in cold water and which has an elementary particle size ranging from 3 to 100 microns.

[0180] The starches may optionally be Ci-Ce hydroxyalkylated or Ci-Ce acylated (such as acetylated). The starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

[0181] The guar gums may be modified or unmodified.

[0182] The modified nonionic guar gums are, for example, modified with Ci-Cg hydroxyalkyl groups. Among hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

[0183] These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

[0184] The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, may, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

[0185] Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP-8 COS, Jaguar HP-60, Jaguar HP-120, and Jaguar HP-120 by the company Solvay.

[0186] It is more preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener, which is selected from nonionic polysaccharide, be selected from those derived from microorganisms, which may be referred to as nonionic “biopolysaccharides”.

[0187] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms or biopolysaccharide means a polysaccharide produced by microorganisms such as germs or bacteria. The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may be produced by fermentation of sugars via microorganisms.

[0188] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may contain units chosen from mannose, glucose, galactose, rhamnose, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] The polysaccharide derived from microorganisms may be optionally chemically modified.

[0190] As examples of the nonionic biopolysaccharide, mention may be made of cardollan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof. It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener be selected from nonionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, and more preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof.

[0191] It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic thickener not be selected from {3-glucans.

[0192] The amount of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.01% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] The amount of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0194] The amount of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (Oil)

[0195] The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

[0196] The (d) oil(s) may constitute a fatty phase, which can be a continuous phase, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0197] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (nonsolid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0198] The (d) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0199] The (d) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, hydrocarbon oils, and fatty alcohols.

[0200] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0201] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0202] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as Cl 5- 19 alkane, isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0203] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0204] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived is branched.

[0205] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0206] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0207] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0208] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0209] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

[0210] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously, and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0211] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0212] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0213] More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

[0214] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride, and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0216] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:

[0217] linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C5-C19 alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

[0218] linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

[0219] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0220] The term “fatty” in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

[0221] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C12-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0222] It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.

[0223] The term “saturated fatty alcohol” here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C12-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used. As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, 2-decyltetradecanol, and mixtures thereof.

[0224] It is also preferable that the (d) oil be chosen from oils with a high specific gravity such as 0.8 or more, preferably 0.9 or more, and more preferably 1.0 or more.

[0225] The (d) oil may be chosen from polar oils, non-polar oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, artificial triglycerides, and mixtures thereof, and more preferably selected from the group consisting of squalene, Cl 5- 19 alkane, diisopropyl sebacate, artificial triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

[0226] It is preferable that the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils is 0.85 or more, more preferably 0.90 or more, and even more preferably 0.95 or more. If the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils is 0.85 or more, the stability under temperature changes of the composition according to the present invention can be further enhanced.

[0227] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0228] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0229] The amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] (Water)

[0231] The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) water.

[0232] The (e) water may constitute the aqueous phases, which can be dispersed or discontinuous phases, in the composition according to the present invention.

[0233] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 55% by weight, and more preferably more than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 85% by weight or less, preferably 80% by weight or less, and more preferably 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] The amount of (e) water in the composition according to the present invention may be more than 50% by weight and 85% by weight or less, preferably more than 55% by weight and 80% by weight or less, and more preferably more than 60% by weight and 75% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0236] (Powder) The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one powder. If two or more powders are used, they may be the same or different.

[0237] According to the present invention, the (f) powder is insoluble in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water.

[0238] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "insoluble" powder means a powder with a solubility in the physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water at 25°C of less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder, and most preferably with no solubility.

[0239] The (f) powder is in the form of a particle or particles.

[0240] The diameter of the (f) powder is not limited. The average particle size of the (f) powder may be 10 nm or more, preferably 50 nm or more, and more preferably 100 nm or more and / or may be 1000 pm or less, preferably 500 pm or less, and more preferably 300 pm or less. Thus, the (f) powder may have an average particle size of from 10 nm to 1000 pm, preferably from 50 nm to 500 pm, and more preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm. The average particle size may be volume-average particle size which can be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.

[0241] The (f) powder is preferably in the form of a solid.

[0242] The (f) powder may be selected from fillers.

[0243] The term "filler" should be understood as meaning a colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic particle which is insoluble in a possible liquid component in the composition according to the present invention, whatever the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

[0244] The filler(s) can be inorganic or organic, and can be of spherical or oblong shape, whatever the crystallographic form (for example, sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, and the like). Nonlimiting mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, silica silylate, kaolin, sericite, calcinated talc, calcinated mica, calcinated sericite, synthetic mica, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite, powders formed of polyamide (Nylon®), of poly-P-alanine and of polyethylene, powders formed of polyurethane, powders formed of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®), lauryllysine, starch, polymeric hollow microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride) / acrylonitrile, for example Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), or of acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls® from Toshiba, for example), particles formed of polyorganosiloxane elastomers, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, basic magnesium carbonate, porous silica, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, or metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

[0245] For the present invention, examples of the filler include modified or unmodified starch.

[0246] The modified starch is based on a base starch. Base starch, as used herein, is intended to include all starches derived from any native source, any of which may be suitable for use herein. A native starch, as used herein, is one as it is found in nature. Also suitable are starches derived from a plant obtained by standard breeding techniques including crossbreeding, translocation, inversion, transformation or any other method of gene or chromosome engineering to include variations thereof. In addition, starches derived from a plant grown from artificial mutations and variations of the above generic starches, which may be produced by known standard methods of mutation breeding, are also suitable herein.

[0247] Typical sources for the starches are cereals, tubers, roots, legumes and fruits. The native source can be waxy varieties of com (maize), pea, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oat, sago, amaranth, tapioca (cassava), arrowroot, canna, and sorghum, as well as low and high amylose varieties thereof. As used herein, the term "low amylose" starch is intended to include a starch containing no more than about 10%, particularly no more than 5%, and more particularly no more than 2% amylose by weight. As used herein, the term "high amylose" starch is intended to include a starch containing at least about 50%, particularly at least about 70%, and more particularly at least about 80% amylose by weight. High amylose starches may be preferable. As unmodified starch, mention may be made of Zea mays (com) starch, which is marketed as Beaute by Roquette® ST005 by Roquette Freres.

[0248] The modified starch may be pre-gelatinized. Pre-gelatinization and techniques for achieving pregelatinization are known in the art and disclosed for example in U. S. Pat. Nos. 4,465,702, 5,037,929, 5,131,953, and 5,149,799. Also see, Chapter XXII-" Production and Use of Pregelatinized Starch", Starch: Chemistry and Technology, Vol. Ill-Industrial Aspects, R. L. Whistler and E. F. Paschall, Editors, Academic Press, New York 1967. The term pre-gelatinized is intended to mean swollen starch particles, which have lost their birefringence and / or maltese crosses in polarized light. Such pre-gelatinized starch derivatives are substantially soluble in cold water without cooking. In this context "soluble" does not necessarily mean the formation of a true molecular solution, but may also mean a colloidal dispersion. In one embodiment, the starch is completely pre-gelatinized.

[0249] The pre-gelatinized modified starch is easily and quickly soluble even in cold water.

[0250] Pre-gelatinization may be achieved by methods which include, without limitation, drum drying, extrusion and spray drying. In one embodiment, extrusion is used for the simultaneous cooking and drying of the starch (see for example U. S. Pat. No. 3,137,592). This process makes use of the physical processing of a starch / water mixture at elevated temperatures and pressures which brings about the gelatinization of the starch, followed by expansion after leaving the nozzle with sudden evaporation of the water.

[0251] In one embodiment, pre-gelatinization is completed to provide good solubility and eliminate undissolved particles, which may give rise to an unpleasant, sandy feel in the composition.

[0252] In one embodiment, the starch has a majority of intact starch granules. Aqueous dispersions of pre-gelatinized starch derivatives having a largely intact granular structure typically have a more uniform smooth texture than aqueous dispersions of starches without a granular structure, which may have a slightly gritty feel. In the case of pre-gelatinized starches with an intact granular structure, the native internal structure of the hydrogen bonds is destroyed, but the external shape or form is maintained.

[0253] The modified starch may be crosslinked. Crosslinking of the starch chains can be achieved by suitable crosslinking agents, that is, bifunctional compounds. In one embodiment, the crosslinking method used is phosphorylation, in which the starch is reacted with phosphorous oxychloride, phosphorous pentoxide, and / or sodium trimetaphosphate. Two starch chains are crosslinked by an anionic P-0 group. The anionic character of the crosslinking sites assists the emulsion-stabilizing action of the starch to be used according to the present invention. In another embodiment, the crosslinking method is by means of C4-C18 alkane or alkene dicarboxylic acids which include without limitation C4-C8 alkane dicarboxylic acids, exemplified by adipic acid. The alkane or alkene dicarboxylic acid links two starch chains via ester bonds. It can be in straight or branched chain form. The derivatives may be obtained, for example, by reacting starch with the mixed anhydrides of dicarboxylic acid and acetic acid. In one embodiment, less than 0.1 weight percent based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used. In another embodiment, about 0.06 to 0.1 weight percent based on the dry starch crosslinking agent is used. It is preferable that the modified starch be hydrophobic. It is more preferable that the surface of the modified starch be hydrophobic.

[0254] The modification to make starch hydrophobic may be performed by grafting hydrophobic functional groups such as C1-6 acyl (acetyl), C1-6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic group.

[0255] The alkyl moiety of the functional group may have 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more preferably 3 or 4 carbon atoms.

[0256] It is preferable that the modified starch be hydroxylalkyl-modified starch.

[0257] The position of the hydroxyl group, which is bound to the starch backbone via an alkyl group such as 2 to 6 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, is not critical and can be in the alpha to omega position. In one suitable embodiment, the degree of substitution of the hydroxyalkylation is about 0.08 to 0.3. The degree of substitution is the average number of substituted OH groups of the starch molecule per anhydroglucose unit. The hydroxyalkylation of a starch can be brought about by reacting a native starch with alkylene oxides with the appropriate number of carbon atoms, including without limitation hydroxypropylation by reaction of the starch with propylene oxide. The hydroxyalkyl-modified starch can also contain more than one hydroxyl group per alkyl group. The hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch phosphate, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and a mixture thereof.

[0258] The processes for preparing the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch may be conducted in any order. However, one skilled in the art would understand the advantages of certain orders. For example, hydroxypropylation would typically be conducted before crosslinking, if the starch is crosslinked, with phosphorous oxychloride as the typical hydroxypropylation process would destroy some of the crosslinking achieved.

[0259] It is preferable that the modified starch is film-forming, i.e., is capable of forming a film.

[0260] Examples of the hydroxyalkyl-modified starch preferably used in the present invention may include the following:

[0261] Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (pre-gelatinized, com starch) marketed by Neuryon as Structure® ZEA and XL; and Com starch modified (hydroxypropylated, pre-gelatinized, high amylose) marketed by Neuryon, as AMAZE®.

[0262] As an example of modified starch, mention may also be made of aluminum starch octenyl succinate, marketed as Beaute by Roquette® ST012 by Roquette Freres, and DRY-FLO® PURE by Nouryon.

[0263] In one embodiment, the (f) powder may be selected from cellulose particles.

[0264] The cellulose particle used for the present invention may be in any particulate form.

[0265] It is preferable that the ratio of the longest diameter / the shortest diameter of the cellulose particle used for the present invention range from 1.0 to 10, preferably from 1.0 to 5, and more preferably from 1.0 to 3.

[0266] It is more preferable that the cellulose particle be spherical, preferably with a ratio of the longest diameter / the shortest diameter of from 1.0 to 1.1.

[0267] The cellulose particle used for the present invention may have

[0268] a wet point for oil being at least 40 ml / 100 g, preferably at least 50 ml / 100 g, more preferably at least 60 ml / 100 g, more preferably at least 100 ml / 100 g, and even more preferably at least 250 ml / 100 g, and preferably 1500 ml / lOOg or less; and

[0269] a wet point for water being at least 100 ml / 100 g, preferably at least 200 mV 100 g, more preferably at least 300 mVlOO g, even more preferably at least 350 mVlOO g, and preferably 1500 mVlOOgorless.

[0270] The term “wet point for oil” in the specification means a quantity or amount of oil which is necessary to make a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.

[0271] The wet point for oil can be determined by the following protocol.

[0272] ( 1 ) 2 g of a target powder is kneaded with a spatula on a glass plate while adding oil, in particular linear ester oil, such as isononyl isononanoate (WICKENOL 151 / ALZO). (2) When the target powder becomes completely wet and starts to form a paste, the weight of the added oil is determined as the weight of the wet point.

[0273] (3) The wet point for oil is calculated from the equation: Wet point for oil (mVlOO g) = {(the weight of the wet point) / 2 g}X100 / the density of oil.

[0274] Similarly, the term “wet point for water” in the specification means a quantity or amount of water which is necessary to make a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.

[0275] The wet point for water can be determined by the following protocol.

[0276] (1 ) 2 g of a target powder is kneaded with a spatula on a glass plate while adding water with a density of 0.998 g / ml.

[0277] (2) When the target powder becomes completely wet and starts to form a paste, the weight of the added water is determined as the weight of the wet point.

[0278] (3) The wet point for water is calculated from the equation: Wet point for water (ml / 100 g) =

[0279] {(the weight of the wet point) / 2 g}X100 / the density of water. It is preferable that the ratio of the wet point for water / the wet point for oil of the cellulose particle used for the present invention be 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less, and even more preferably 2 or less, and preferably 0.1 or more.

[0280] The cellulose particle may be porous or non-porous, preferably porous.

[0281] The porosity of the cellulose particle may be characterized by a specific surface area of from 0.05 m2 / g to 1,500 m2 / g, more preferably from 0.1 m2 / g to 1,000 m2 / g, and even more preferably from 0.2 m2 / g to 500 m2 / g according to the BET method.

[0282] In the present invention, the cellulose that may be used for the cellulose particle is not limited by the types of cellulose such as cellulose I, cellulose II, or the like. As the cellulose which can be used as a material for the cellulose particle for the present invention, type II cellulose is preferable. The cellulose particle, preferably a spherical cellulose particle, can be prepared, for example, as follows.

[0283] (1) A slurry of calcium carbonate, as an aggregation inhibitor, is added to an alkaline water- soluble anionic polymer aqueous solution, and stirred.

[0284] (2) Viscose and the aqueous solution obtained in the above (1) are mixed to form a dispersion of viscose fine particles.

[0285] (3) The dispersion of viscose fine particles obtained in the above (2) is heated to aggregate the viscose in the dispersion, and neutralized with acid, to form cellulose fine particles. (4) The cellulose fine particles are separated from the mother liquid obtained in the above (3), and washed and dried, if necessary.

[0286] The viscose is a raw material of the cellulose. It is preferable to use viscose with a gamma value of 30 to 100% by mass and an alkaline concentration of 4 to 10% by mass. As the above water-soluble anionic polymer, mention may be made of polyacrylic acid sodium salt, polystyrene sulfonic acid sodium salt, and the like. The above calcium carbonate is used to prevent the aggregation of viscose fine particles in the dispersion and to make the particle size of the cellulose particle smaller. As the calcium carbonate slurry, mention may be made of Tama Pearl TP- 221GS marketed by Okutama Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan.

[0287] According to one embodiment, the cellulose particle may or may not include a cellulose derivative. The cellulose derivative may be chosen from cellulose esters and ethers.

[0288] It is indicated that the term "cellulose ester" means, in the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, a polymer consisting of an a (1-4) sequence of partially or totally esterified anhydroglucose rings, the esterification being obtained by the reaction of all or only some of the free hydroxyl functions of the said anhydroglucose rings with a linear or branched carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid derivative (acid chloride or acid anhydride) containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0289] Preferably, the cellulose ester results from the reaction of some of the free hydroxyl functions of said rings with a carboxylic acid containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0290] Advantageously, the cellulose esters are chosen from cellulose acetates, propionates, butyrates, isobutyrates, acetobutyrates and acetopropionates, and mixtures thereof.

[0291] These cellulose esters may have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000 and more preferably from 15,000 to 300,000. In the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, the term "cellulose ether" means a polymer consisting of an a (1-4) sequence of partially etherified anhydroglucose rings, some of the free hydroxyl functions of said rings being substituted with a radical -OR, R preferably being a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0292] The cellulose ethers are thus preferably chosen from cellulose alkyl ethers with an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as cellulose methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl ethers.

[0293] These cellulose ethers may have a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000 and more preferably from 15,000 to 300,000.

[0294] As the cellulose particle used for the present invention, mention may be made of, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan:

[0295] Cellulobeads USF (the wet point for oil is 296.0 mVlOO g, the wet point for water is 400.8 ml / 100 g, and the ratio of the wet point for water / the wet point for oil is 1.4) with an average particle size of 4 pm;

[0296] Cellulobeads USF-X (the wet point for oil is, at maximum, 80 ml / 100 g, the wet point for water is 250 mV 100 g, and the ratio of the wet point for water / the wet point for oil is 3.1 or less) with an average particle size of 3-5 pm;

[0297] Cellulobeads D-5 (the wet point for oil is, at maximum, 70 ml / 100 g, the wet point for water is 150 mVl 00 g, and the ratio of the wet point for water / the wet point for oil is 2.1 or less) with an average particle size of 8-10 pm; and

[0298] Cellulobeads D-10 (the wet point for oil is, at maximum, 60 mVlOO g, the wet point for water is 140 mVlOO g, and the ratio of the wet point for water / the wet point for oil is 2.3 or less) with an average particle size of 12-15 pm.

[0299] The cellulose particle used for the present invention may or may not be coated beforehand.

[0300] In a particular embodiment, the cellulose particle is originally coated. The material of an original coating of the particle is not limited, but an organic material such as a mono- or di-carboxylic acid or a salt thereof, an amino acid, an N-acylamino acid, an amido, a silicone and a modified silicone may be preferable. As the organic material, mention may be made of potassium succinate, lauroyl lysine and acryl-modified silicone.

[0301] In other words, the cellulose particle used for the present invention may be surface-treated. As examples of the surface treatments, mention may be made of the following:

[0302] (1 ) Fluorine-based compound treatments such as treatments with perfluoroalkylphosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoropolyethers, fluorosilicones, and fluorinated silicone resins (2) Silicone treatments such as treatments with methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, dimethylpolysiloxanes, and tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane in a gas phase (3) Pendant treatments such as treatments to add an alkyl chain and the like after the gas phase silicone treatment

[0303] (4) Silane coupling agent treatments

[0304] (5) Titanium coupling agent treatments

[0305] (6) Aluminum coupling agent treatments

[0306] (7) Oil agent treatments

[0307] (8) N-acylated lysine treatments

[0308] (9) Polyacrylic acid treatments (10) Metal soap treatments such as those with stearate salt or myristate salt

[0309] (11) Acrylic resin treatments

[0310] (12) Metal oxide treatments

[0311] It is possible to perform a plurality of surface treatments in combination with the above treatments.

[0312] It is preferable that the (f) powder is selected from fillers.

[0313] It is more preferable that the (f) powder be selected from starches, silicas, celluloses and mixtures thereof.

[0314] It is more preferable that the (f) powder be selected from com starch, porous silica, porous cellulose particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0315] The amount of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0316] The amount of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0317] The amount of the (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0318] (Silicone)

[0319] If the composition contains silicone(s), one, two or more silicones may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of silicone or a combination of different types of silicones may be used.

[0320] In the context of the present invention, the term "silicone" used herein is understood to mean, in conformity with the generally accepted definition, all organosilicon polymers or oligomers having a linear or cyclic, branched or crosslinked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and / or polycondensation of appropriately functionalized silanes, and comprising in essence a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are joined to one another by oxygen atoms (siloxane link =Si-O-Si=), optionally substituted hydrocarbon radicals being linked directly via a carbon atom to the said silicon atoms. The most common hydrocarbon radicals are alkyl radicals, in particular Ci-Cio alkyl radicals and especially methyl, fluoroalkyl radicals, and aryl radicals and especially phenyl.

[0321] The silicone(s), if present in the composition used for the process according to the present invention, may be volatile silicone, non-volatile silicone, or combinations thereof.

[0322] The silicone(s) may be selected from, but is not limited to, organopolysiloxanes, such as polydialkylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes, amino-modified silicones, polyether-modified silicones, carboxyl-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones, aliphatic alcohol-modified silicones, epoxy-modified silicones, fluorine-modified silicones, cyclic silicones, amino polyether-modified silicones, and mixtures thereof. The (d) silicone(s) may be selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, such as polydimethylsiloxane, and amino-modified silicones, and in particular selected from aminomodified silicones.

[0323] In one embodiment, the silicone may be selected from organopolysiloxanes, amino-modified silicones (aminosilicones), and mixtures thereof, preferably from aminosilicones.

[0324] The organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in the book by Walter Noll “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. Among polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of linear polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, and polydimethylsiloxanes with hydroxydimethylsilyl end groups, for instance. Among polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of linear and branched polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyldiphenylsiloxanes, for instance.

[0325] According to the present invention, the term “amino-modified silicone”, or aminosilicone, denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium, and more particularly at least one primary amine.

[0326] The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition used for the process according to the present invention is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] It is preferable that the composition used for the process according to the present invention comprises no silicone.

[0328] (Optional Ingredients)

[0329] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, ingredients typically employed in cosmetics, specifically, cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants other than the ingredients (al) and (a2), preservatives, or the like, within a range which does not impair the effects of the present invention. The composition according to the present invention may comprise the above optional ingredient(s) in an amount of from 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0330] The composition according to the present invention includes a very limited amount of silicone(s) in view of environmental friendliness.

[0331] The amount of the silicone(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is in particular preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes no silicone.

[0332] The composition according to the present invention may include a very limited amount of surfactant(s) including at least one polyoxyalkylene moiety such as polyoxyethylene moiety, in particular polyoxyalkylene-alkylether surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene-alkylether surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene glyceryl fatty acid ester surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene sorbitan fatty acid ester surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene sorbitol fatty acid ester surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester surfactant(s), polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester surfactant(s) such as polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester surfactant(s), and polyoxyalkylene phytosterol surfactant(s) such as polyoxyethylene phytosterol surfactant(s), in view of environmental friendliness.

[0333] The amount of the surfactants) including at least one polyoxyalkylene moiety in the composition according to the present invention may be less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is in particular preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes no surfactant including at least one polyoxyalkylene moiety.

[0334] (Embodiments)

[0335] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0336] 0.01% to 15% by weight of (al) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0337] 0.01 % to 15% by weight of (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4;

[0338] 0.01% to 20% by weight of (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0339] 0.001% to 10% by weight of (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides;

[0340] 0.1% to 30% by weight of (d) at least one oil; and

[0341] more than 50% by weight of (e) water,

[0342] wherein

[0343] the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0344] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0345] 0.05% to 10% by weight of (al ’) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less, selected from esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and of (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids;

[0346] 0.05% to 10% by weight of (a2’) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4, selected from esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iii) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid;

[0347] 0.05% to 15% by weight of (b’) at least one non- wax lipophilic thickener;

[0348] 0.005% to 5% by weight of (c’) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms;

[0349] 0.5% to 25% by weight of (d’) at least one oil where the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils is 0.85 or more; and

[0350] more than 55% by weight of (e) water,

[0351] wherein

[0352] the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone. According to a more preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0353] 0.1% to 5% by weight of (al ”) polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate;

[0354] 0.1% to 5% by weight of (a2”) polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate;

[0355] 0.1% to 10% by weight of (b”) at least one lipophilic thickeners selected from dextrin esters of fatty acids;

[0356] 0.01% to 1% by weight of (c”) sclerotium gum;

[0357] 1% to 20% by weight of (d”) at least one oil where the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils is 0.90 or more; and

[0358] more than 60% by weight of (e) water,

[0359] wherein

[0360] the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0361] (Preparation)

[0362] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above. The method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer.

[0363] (Form)

[0364] The composition according to the present invention may be of the W / O type.

[0365] In the composition according to the present invention, a plurality of aqueous phases may be dispersed in the fatty phase. In this case, the aqueous phases are discontinuous phases, while the fatty phase is a continuous phase.

[0366] The aqueous phase may include the (c) hydrophilic thickener and the (e) water.

[0367] The fatty phase may include the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, the (b) lipophilic thickener and the (d) oil.

[0368] Thus, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W / O type composition, comprising:

[0369] a continuous fatty phase comprising

[0370] (al ) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0371] (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4;

[0372] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener;

[0373] (d) at least one oil,

[0374] and

[0375] a plurality of dispersed aqueous phases comprising

[0376] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; and

[0377] (e) water,

[0378] wherein the amount of the (e) water is more than 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

[0379] the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

[0380] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 11% by weight or more, and more preferably 12% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0381] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 28% by weight or less, and more preferably 26% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0382] The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may be from 10% to 30% by weight, preferably from 11% to 28% by weight, and more preferably from 12% to 26% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0383] The amount of the aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 65% by weight or more, preferably 70% by weight or more, and more preferably 74% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0384] The amount of the aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be 95% by weight or less, preferably from 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0385] The amount of the aqueous phases in the composition according to the present invention may be from 65% to 95% by weight, preferably from 70% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 74% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0386] The composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a W / O emulsion, as the ingredients (al) and (a2) can function as an emulsifier.

[0387] [Application, Process and Use]

[0388] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as skin.

[0389] The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratin material such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and / or scalp, by being applied to the keratin material.

[0390] Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material such as skin, preferably skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.

[0391] The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products, for body and / or facial skin and / or mucous membranes and / or the scalp and / or the hair and / or the nails and / or the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows. In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as it is, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added to or combined with any other elements to form a cosmetic product.

[0392] The care product may be a lotion, a cream, and the like.

[0393] It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be used as a skin care composition.

[0394] The present invention may also relate to a use of:

[0395] (al ) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less;

[0396] (a2) at least one at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4;

[0397] (b) at least one lipophilic thickener; and

[0398] (c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides

[0399] in a composition comprising:

[0400] (d) at least one oil; and

[0401] (e) water,

[0402] wherein

[0403] the amount of the (e) water is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 55% by weight, and more preferably more than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone,

[0404] in order to stabilize the composition

[0405] and / or

[0406] in order to cause texture transformation of the composition when being applied onto a keratin material such as skin, preferably at the early stage of the application, and / or reduce the greasiness the keratin material after application.

[0407] It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (f) at least one powder.

[0408] The explanations regarding the ingredients (a) to (f) in the composition according to the present invention can apply to those in the above use according to the present invention.

[0409] EXAMPLES

[0410] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0411] Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6

[0412] [Preparation]

[0413] The following compositions, in the form of W / O emulsions, according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows:

[0414] (1) mixing the ingredients in the rows of A in Table 1 at 80-90°C to form a uniform mixture of Phase A;

[0415] (2) mixing the ingredients in the rows of B 1 in Table 1 at 80-90°C to form a uniform mixture of Phase Bl;

[0416] (3) cooling the uniform mixture of Phase B 1 to room temperature (25°C);

[0417] (4) adding the ingredients of Phase B2 to the uniform mixture of Phase B 1 followed by mixing with a turbine mixer to form a uniform mixture of Phase B;

[0418] (5) adding the uniform mixture pf Phase B to the uniform mixture of Phase A, gradually with a propeller mixer to form a uniform phase (Phases A and B); and

[0419] (6) cooling the uniform phase to a room temperature.

[0420] The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active ingredients. Table 1

[0421] Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Comp. Phase Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3

[0422] Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Ex. 5 Ex. 6 Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate*1

[0423] (al) 0.55 0.55 0.85 0.9 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 (HLB: 3.3)

[0424] Polyglyceryl-4

[0425] (a2) Diisostearate / Polyhydroxystearate 0.35 0.35 0.5 - 0.9 0.35 0.35 0.35 0.35 / Sebacate’2(HLB: 5)

[0426] A

[0427] (d) Diisopropyl Sebacate 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 12.8 (d) Squalane 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 8 Caprylic / Capric / Succinic

[0428] (d) 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 24 Triglyceride

[0429] (b) Dextrin Palmitate 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 0.7 - 0.7 0.7 0.7 (c) Sclerotium Gum - 0.1 0.1 - - - - Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan

[0430] (c) 0.08 - 0.08 0.08 0.08 * * 0.08 Gum (75:25)

[0431] Xanthan Gum - - - - - - - 0.1 - Glycerin 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 12 Bl

[0432] Chlorphenesin 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 B Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5

[0433] Magnesium Sulfate 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 (e) Water 74.02 72 71.55 74.02 74.02 74.72 74.1 74 40.42 Zea Mays (Com) Starch - 2 1.5 - * *

[0434] B2 (f) Silica 0.3 — - - *• * Cellulose - 0.2 - - **

[0435] Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Refreshing Feeling

[0436] Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Poor Very Very Very Very Non-Greasy Feeling Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Poor Very Very Very Very Very Stability Poor Poor1

[0437] Poor Poor

[0438]

[0439] Good Good Good Poor Poor 1: SY-Glycer CRS-75 (Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.)

[0440] 2: ISOLAN GPS (Evonik Industries AG)

[0441] [Evaluations]

[0442] (Refreshing Feeling)

[0443] Five professional panelists evaluated “water-splashing feel” during the application of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6. Each panelist took each composition and applied it circularly onto their skin. They evaluated water-splashing feel during the application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:

[0444] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (water- splashing feel is clearly felt at the early stage of application) Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (water-splashing feel is felt at the early stage of application)

[0445] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (water-splashing feel is hardly felt at the early stage of application) Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (water-splashing feel is not felt at all at the early stage of application) The results are shown in Table 1.

[0446] (Non-Greasy Feeling)

[0447] Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-greasy feeling” after application of the compositions according to Examples 1 -3 and Comparative Examples 1 -6. Each panelist took each composition and applied it onto their skin to evaluate the non-greasy feeling after application, and graded it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 4 categories based on the average of the grade:

[0448] Very Good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (greasiness is not felt at all after application)

[0449] Good: From 3.9 to 3.0 (greasiness is hardly felt after application)

[0450] Poor: From 2.9 to 2.0 (greasiness is felt after application)

[0451] Very Poor: From 1.9 to 1.0 (greasiness is clearly felt after application)

[0452] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0453] (Stability)

[0454] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-6 was filled into a glass bottle and was held under the following temperature changing cycle at 4°C, 25°C, 37 °C and 45 °C for 2 months.

[0455] Temperature Changing Cycle:

[0456] a) maintaining the composition at 4°C for 6 hours;

[0457] b) increasing the temperature of the composition to 25 °C over a period of 6 hours; c) increasing the temperature of the composition at 37°C over a period of for 6 hours; d) increasing the temperature of the composition to 45°C over a period of 6 hours; and e) decreasing the temperature of the composition to 4°C.

[0458] Ten cycles were performed, and defects of the composition were evaluated between each cycle. Specifically, each composition was investigated in terms of the degree of change in the aspect (e.g., syneresis, separation and creaming), color (e.g., yellowing and browning), and odor (e.g., bad smell) of the composition, and evaluated in accordance with the following criteria:

[0459] Very Good: Almost the same conditions as at production.

[0460] Good: Little changes in aspect, color, and odor were observed.

[0461] Poor: Changes in aspect, color, and odor were clearly observed.

[0462] Very Poor: Changes in aspect, color, and odor were remarkably noticed.

[0463] The results are shown in Table 1.

[0464] (Summary)

[0465] As is clear from Table 1, the compositions according to the present invention (Examples 1-3) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-greasy feeling after application; and stability under temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of the ingredients (al), (a2), (b) and (c) under the presence of the ingredients (d) and (e). Examples 2-3 show that the addition of the ingredient (f) can further improve non-greasy feeling after application. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, an excellent feeling to the touch and stability for a long time period even under temperature changes.

[0466] On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include the ingredient (a2) (second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) showed inferior stability.

[0467] The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include the ingredient (al) (first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester) also showed inferior stability.

[0468] The composition according to Comparative Example 3 which did not include the ingredient (b) (lipophilic thickener) also showed inferior stability.

[0469] The compositions according to Comparative Examples 4 and 5 which did not include the ingredient (c) (hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides) also showed inferior stability. It should be noted that xanthan gum has carboxy groups, and therefore, is an anionic polysaccharide. The composition according to Comparative Example 6 which includes a smaller amount of water could not provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non- greasy feeling after application; and stability under temperature changes for 2 months.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cosmetic composition, comprising:(al ) at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of 4 or less; (a2) at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having an HLB value of more than 4;(b) at least one lipophilic thickener;(c) at least one hydrophilic thickener selected from nonionic polysaccharides; (d) at least one oil; and(e) water,whereinthe amount of the (e) water is more than 50% by weight, preferably more than 55% by weight, and more preferably more than 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, andthe composition comprises no silicone or less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5%, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of silicone.

2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (al) first poly glyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid esters, preferably esters of (i-1) at least one polyglycerol and of (ii-1) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, and more preferably from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 polyricinoleate, poly glyceryl- 5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl polymeric fatty acid esters, preferably esters of (i-2) at least one polyglycerol, and of (ii-2) at least one polycondensate of saturated or unsaturated hydroxyacids, (iii) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic monocarboxylic acid, and (iv) at least one linear or branched, aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, and more preferably polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 %> to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the difference in the HLB values of the (al) first polyglyceryl fatty acid and the (a2) second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is 0.5 or more, preferably 1 or more, and even more preferably 1.5 or more.

7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (b) lipophilic thickener is selected from non- wax lipophilic thickeners, preferably non- wax lipophilicorganic thickeners, and more preferably dextrin esters of fatty acids, such as dextrin palmitate.

8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the amount of the (b) lipophilic thickener(s) in the composition is from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (c) hydrophilic thickener is selected from nonionic polysaccharides derived from microorganisms, and preferably from the group consisting of cardollan, jellan gum, dextran, pullulan, sclerotium gum, and a mixture thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the amount of the (c) hydrophilic thickener(s) in the composition is from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.01 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the density of the (d) oil or the average density of the (d) oils is 0.85 or more, preferably 0.90 or more, and more preferably 0.95 or more.

12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of the (d) oil(s) in the composition is from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the composition further comprises (f) at least one powder.

14. The composition according to Claim 13, wherein the (f) powder is selected from fillers, preferably from the group consisting of starches, silicas, celluloses and mixtures thereof, and more preferably from the group consisting of com starch, porous silica, porous cellulose, and mixtures thereof.

15. A cosmetic process for treating a keratin material such as skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 to the keratin material.

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