Oil-in-water emulsion, with improved conditioning effect, for oxidatively changing the color of keratin fibers
An oil-in-water emulsion with natural-based conditioning agents and specific surfactants addresses hair damage and stability issues in oxidative hair dyes, achieving intense and stable dyeing with reduced environmental impact.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- HENKEL KGAA
- Filing Date
- 2025-11-25
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-04
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Abstract
Description
[0001] "Oil-in-water emulsion for oxidative color change of keratinous fibers with improved conditioning effect"
[0002] The present invention relates to an agent for oxidative color change for keratinous fibers in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with improved conditioning effect, which also has optimized application properties and / or improved dyeing performance, and to a method for oxidative color change using the aforementioned oxidative color change agent in emulsion form.
[0003] For permanent, intense colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidative dyes are used. Oxidative dyes typically consist of two components: one component usually contains oxidative dye precursors, known as developer components, and coupler components. Under the influence of oxidizing agents, particularly hydrogen peroxide, which are added to the first component shortly before application to the hair, or by atmospheric oxygen, the developer components react with each other or by coupling with one or more coupler components to form the actual dyes. Commonly used developer components include primary aromatic amines with an additional free or substituted hydroxyl or amino group in the para- or ortho-position, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazolone derivatives, as well as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives.The coupler components typically used are m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones, m-aminophenols, and substituted pyridine derivatives. These oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting color results.
[0004] Conventional oxidative hair dyes have a more alkaline pH value, usually well above 8.5, to stabilize the dye precursors during storage and accelerate the reaction during oxidative application. This pH is adjusted using alkalizing agents such as alkanolamines, ammonia, or inorganic bases. Ammonia, in particular, enables good coloring results. The alkalizing agent causes the keratin fibers to swell, allowing the dye precursors to penetrate the hair effectively. However, the alkaline pH value damages the hair and also intensifies the damaging effect of the oxidizing agent on the hair structure. This damage to the hair structure, which is particularly noticeable quickly, affects the scaling of the cuticle, the outer layer of the keratin fiber. This manifests as increased roughness, a less pleasant feel, reduced shine, and decreased fiber stability.The roughened structure of the cuticle allows small molecules, such as water, to escape more quickly. This causes damaged hair to lose further suppleness and elasticity. The roughened fiber surface also impairs colorfastness.
[0005] To reduce hair damage caused by alkaline oxidative dyes, fats or oils are frequently used in these products. The content of oil and / or fat components can also reduce ammonia release after application to the hair when ammonium hydroxide and ammonium salts are used as alkalizing agents. The leveling capacity of the hair dye can also be improved by the presence of oil and / or fat components, resulting in a less selective color that adheres to both damaged and undamaged areas of the keratin fibers with approximately equal intensity. The alkalizing component of the oxidative dye or lightening agent is then present as an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.
[0006] Many oxidation dye precursors are aromatic amines. Some of these aromatic amines are preferably used in the form of their salts, especially sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, because these are more stable and easier to handle than the free amines. In the alkaline medium of the dye, the free amines are released from the salt and form the dyes. The oxidation dye precursors in salt form introduce a higher salt load into the dyeing component. This is especially true for darker shades, which generally contain a higher concentration of oxidation dye precursors. Dyeing components in emulsion form are often less stable during storage due to this high salt concentration and tend to separate the oil and water phases over time. This phase separation is accelerated by an increase in storage temperature.For a mass-produced emulsion, thermal stability is essential, as the product can be exposed to significant temperature fluctuations during transport from production through various intermediate storage facilities to the point of sale in online or brick-and-mortar retail. Both high and very low temperatures can negatively impact emulsion stability. However, particularly problematic are high temperatures of 50°C and above, such as those typically encountered during ocean transport by container ship.
[0007] Oxidative dyes have been used for decades. They are intended exclusively for extracorporeal application to keratin fibers such as scalp hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows; however, contact of the dye with the scalp cannot be completely avoided during application. To ensure the highest possible product safety for consumers, commercially used oxidative dye precursors are continuously monitored for their physiological compatibility, for example, by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Products (SCCP), an advisory body to the European Commission. It is known that some oxidative dye precursors, particularly some para-phenylenediamine-type oxidation bases, may have a certain sensitization potential.Therefore, customers are advised to perform a skin patch test with a small amount of the dye before applying it to their hair to rule out allergic reactions during or after the dyeing process. In addition to skin sensitization, other physiological effects are also monitored. Resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, and 2-methylresorcinol are common coupler-type oxidative dye precursors. In its most recent opinion from March 2021, the SCCP concluded that the use of resorcinol in oxidative hair dyes at a resorcinol concentration of up to 1.25% by weight in the ready-to-use mixture is considered safe. The SCCP noted that resorcinol has an antithyroid effect.Although the available human studies do not provide a clear exposure level required for such an effect, most of these studies suggest a comparatively much higher exposure level than is the case with cosmetics.
[0008] State of the art
[0009] To reduce hair damage caused by an alkaline oxidative color-changing agent, numerous conditioning agents have already been used in the prior art, including silicones, aminosilicones and cationized polyacrylates and similar synthetic, petrochemical-based polymers.
[0010] Aside from the fact that many of these conditioning agents still have room for improvement in their effectiveness, the use of such synthetic and / or petrochemical-based conditioning agents in cosmetics is now less preferred for reasons of ecological sustainability. Therefore, continuous efforts are being made to improve the hair-conditioning effect of alkaline oxidative coloring agents by using natural-based conditioning agents.
[0011] The present application was therefore based on the objective of providing an agent for the oxidative color modification of keratinous fibers with improved conditioning properties. The carrier components were to be based on natural substances and should not impair the dyeing properties, particularly with regard to color intensity and leveling capacity.
[0012] The coupler component 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline as a replacement for resorcinol is described in the prior art. Patent application US20220304908A1 discloses dyes for keratinous fibers that do not use resorcinol and whose dye combination comprises either at least one oxidation base selected from para-toluenediamine sulfate, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol sulfate, and 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate in combination with at least two coupler components selected from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, and 2-methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol, or at least two oxidation bases selected from para-toluenediamine sulfate, p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol sulfate, and 1-hydroxyethyl-4,5-diaminopyrazole sulfate in combination with at least one coupler component selected from hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, and 2-Methyl-5-hydroxyethylaminophenol is included.Patent application US20210177717A1 also discloses dyes for keratinous fibers that do not use meta-aminophenol and preferably also resorcinol. These dyes contain 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025.
[0013] 4
[0014] 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-Methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine and 3-Amino-
[0015] 2-chloro-6-methylphenol .
[0016] To address the concerns of some consumers regarding product safety, a further preferred object of this invention was to provide an agent for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers, particularly human hair, that makes it possible to cover a broad color spectrum and achieve dyeings with high fastness properties without compromising product safety. A further object was to provide an agent for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers that requires the smallest possible amount of oxidation dye precursors and yet produces intense dyeings with high fastness, particularly high wash fastness. The present application also aimed to provide an agent for the oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers with improved storage stability, in particular with the lowest possible salt load, in order to improve emulsion stability.
[0017] It has now been found that an alkaline oxidative color-changing agent, based on an oil-in-water emulsion containing surfactant, fatty alcohol, alkalizing agent and a selected natural product-based conditioning agent, exhibits excellent conditioning properties.
[0018] Furthermore, it was found that an oxidative dye based on an oil-in-water emulsion with at least one surfactant, at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms, and at least one selected conditioning agent exhibits excellent dyeing properties for shades with the coupler component 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, as well as excellent application properties for both bottle and brush application. In addition, efficient dyeing can be achieved with the dyes according to the invention, which attain high intensity despite a relatively small amount of dye.
[0019] The present invention relates, in a first embodiment, to a composition for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, 2024P00110WG 25.11.2025
[0020] 5 g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt% at least one conditioning agent selected from i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II), (II)
[0021] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0022] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0023] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2and R 3 each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), n for 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, stands and
[0024] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, extraordinarily preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, extraordinarily preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0025] Surfactants and emulsifiers within the meaning of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) 2024P00110WÖ 25.1 1.2025
[0026] 6
[0027] Compounds consisting of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic molecular moiety. The hydrophobic moiety is preferably a hydrocarbon group with 8-28 carbon atoms, which may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. A linear Cs-C28 alkyl group is particularly preferred. Basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces, aggregation into micelles, and the formation of lyotropic phases. Within the scope of the present invention, the terms "surfactant" and "emulsifier" are used synonymously.
[0028] When selecting suitable surfactants according to the invention, it may be preferable to use a mixture of surfactants in order to optimally adjust the properties of the oxidation dyes according to the invention.
[0029] For the purposes of this application, saturated and unsaturated alkan-1-ols with at least 4 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl residue, alkanecarboxylic acids with at least 4 carbon atoms in the alk(en)yl residue and glyceryl fatty acid mono- and diesters with at least 4 carbon atoms in the fatty acid residue are not considered surfactants.
[0030] All information concerning the states of matter (solid, liquid, gaseous) in this application refers to standard conditions. For the purposes of this application, "standard conditions" are a temperature of 25°C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.
[0031] The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion. The composition according to the invention further comprises the alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative dyeing or lightening agent, which is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution shortly before application and then applied to the hair.
[0032] The composition according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, and most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water.
[0033] Another mandatory component of the compositions according to the invention, and of the preferred compositions according to the invention, is the presence of at least one surfactant. This at least one surfactant serves to stably emulsify the fat component, which is also mandatory according to the invention, namely the at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in the aqueous phase.
[0034] The at least one surfactant is preferably selected from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, katonic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures of these surfactants.
[0035] Anionic Surfactants In the compositions according to the invention for oxidative color change, all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body are suitable as anionic surfactants. These are characterized by a water-soluble anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants include linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyltaurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono-, dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, as well as alkyl and / or alkenyl phosphates.Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and alkyl ether carboxylic acids, each with 10 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and up to 12 glycol ether groups, preferably 2 to 6 glycol ether groups in the molecule. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Myreth Sulfate, or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.
[0036] Examples of soaps preferred according to the invention are the salts of a saturated or unsaturated C10-C22-alk(en)ylcarboxylic acid with a monovalent cation, particularly preferably selected from the sodium, potassium, ammonium and monoethanolamine salts of myristic acid, cetyl acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid as well as their technical mixtures.
[0037] Examples of preferred non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates according to the invention are selected from n-octyl sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl sulfate, n-decyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, n-tetradecyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, stearyl sulfate, and mixtures of these sulfates, in particular mixtures designated as cocosulfate, wherein the at least one C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is present in salt form. The at least one non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is particularly preferably used as a sodium salt. Another preferred salt is the magnesium salt of the at least one non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfate. The lithium, potassium, and ammonium salts of the at least one non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfate are also preferred according to the invention. Preferred agents for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one anionic surfactant selected from non-ethoxylated C8-C18 alkyl sulfates in a total amount of 1-10 wt.-%, preferably 4 - 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 5 - 7 wt.%, each based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0038] Preferred agents for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one anionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 to 15 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 12 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 10 wt.%, further particularly preferably 1.0 to 8 wt.%, further particularly preferably 2.0 to 6.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 2.5 to 5.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0039] Non-ionic surfactants
[0040] Suitable nonionic surfactants for the composition according to the invention are all nonionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body, which have at least one water-soluble, nonionic group, in particular a polyethylene glycol ether group with at least two ethylene oxide units, a glycoside group, in particular a glucose or methylglucose group, a polyglycoside group with on average more than one glycoside unit, a polyglycerol group with at least two glycerol units, a sorbitan group, an amide group or several different groups of these, for example a sorbitan group and a polyethylene glycol ether group, and furthermore contain at least one lipophilic alkyl group with about 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 7 to 80 moles of ethylene oxide per mole.wherein the castor oil may be hydrogenated, ethoxylated Cs-Cso alkanols with 4–100 mol of ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated Cs-Cso carboxylic acids with 5–30 mol of ethylene oxide per mol, ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C12-Cao carboxylic acids with 4–50 mol of ethylene oxide per mol, which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or of mixtures of these fatty acids, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and their ethoxylated analogues, furthermore polyalkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, Cs-C24 alkyl epoxide-ethylene glycol addition products modified with 5–20 mol Ethylene oxide per mole ethoxylated and prop-oxylated with 1 mole propylene oxide per mole, glycerol mono- and diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated,N-acyl-N-methylglucamides,
[0041] Formula (I),
[0042] (I), where the acyl group R 5 CO- is derived from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-C22 carboxylic acid, which may be hydroxylated, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0043] According to the invention, preferred non-ionic surfactants selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 7-80 mol ethylene oxide per mol, optionally hydrogenated, are selected from castor oil ethoxylated with 20-65 mol ethylene oxide per mol, optionally hydrogenated, particularly preferably from castor oil ethoxylated with 30-60 mol ethylene oxide per mol, optionally hydrogenated, and extraordinarily preferably from castor oil ethoxylated with 40-55 mol ethylene oxide per mol, optionally hydrogenated.
[0044] The ethoxylated Cs-Cso alkanols have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1 stands for a 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025
[0045] 9 linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl groups having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and n, the mean number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 4 to 100, preferably 6 to 30, particularly preferably 12 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of alkanol, preferably selected from caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, tridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol, as well as from technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 10 - 100 mol ethylene oxide to technical fatty alcohols with 12 - 18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are also suitable.Particularly preferred are Trideceth-6, isotrideceth-6, Undeceth-6, Myreth-6, Laureth-10, Laureth-12, Laureth-15, Laureth-20, Laureth-30, Myreth-10, Myreth-12, Myreth-15, Myreth-20, Myreth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12, Steareth-15, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Oleth-10, Oleth-12, Oleth-15, Oleth-20, Oleth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth- 15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-30 as well as Coceth-10, Coceth-12, Coceth-15, Coceth-20 and Coceth-30; Ceteth-10, Ceteth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-10, Steareth-12, Steareth-15, Steareth-20 and Steareth-30 as well as mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
[0046] The ethoxylated Cs-Cso carboxylic acids have the formula R 1 O(CH2CH2O) n H, where R 1O represents a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl residue with 8-30 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 5-30, preferably 6-20, particularly preferably 6 to 12 mol of ethylene oxide to 1 mol of Cs-Cso carboxylic acid, preferably selected from caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetyl acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid, as well as from technical mixtures thereof. Adducts of 5-30, preferably 6-20, particularly preferably 6 to 12 mol of ethylene oxide to technical fatty acids with 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are also suitable.
[0047] Among the nonionic surfactants preferred according to the invention are polyalkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes modified with polyethylene glycol side chains, especially PEG-12 dimethicone. A polyethylene glycol-substituted polydimethylsiloxane with the INCI name PEG-12 dimethicone, which is available, for example, under the trade name Xiameter OFX-0193 Fluid, is particularly preferred. Polydimethylsiloxane-polyethylene glycol block copolymers also represent suitable nonionic surfactants.
[0048] A preferred nonionic C8-C24 alkyl epoxide-ethylene glycol addition product according to the invention, which is ethoxylated with 5-20 moles of ethylene oxide per mole and propoxylated with 1 mole of propylene oxide per mole, is PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether. The structure of PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether is outlined below. The subscripts a and c preferably represent the value 1, and the subscripts b and d preferably represent the value 9. A preferred PPG-1-PEG-9 lauryl glycol ether is the commercial product Eumulgin L from BASF.
[0049] Further preferred nonionic surfactants according to the invention are selected from alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4 G represents an alkyl or alkenyl residue with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar residue with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p represents a positive rational number in the range of 1 to 6.
[0050] Preferred sugars from which the sugar residue G of the nonionic surfactant of formula R is formed 4 O-[G] P The selected substances are erythrose, threose, erythrulose, ribose, deoxyribose, arabinose, glucose, fructose, galactose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose, fucose and rhamnose, with glucose, galactose, fructose, fucose and rhamnose being particularly preferred and glucose being extraordinarily preferred.
[0051] The alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides of formula R 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4Where G represents an alkyl or alkenyl group with 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar group with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and p represents a positive rational number from 1 to 6, the following compounds, with G, contain a sugar group with 5 or 6 carbon atoms derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are thus alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides. The subscript p in the general formula indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e., the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and represents a positive rational number between 1 and 6. While p must always be an integer in a single molecule and can take the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for an industrially produced alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined calculated quantity, usually a fraction.Preferably, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0, preferably 1.5 to 2.0, are used. From an application-related point of view, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with a degree of oligomerization less than 1.7, and particularly in the range of 1.2 to 1.6, are preferred. The alkyl group R. 4It is derived from primary alcohols with 4 to 22, preferably 8 to 18, and particularly preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capron alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, and undecyl alcohol, as well as their technical mixtures, such as those obtained, for example, during the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or during the hydrogenation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length Cs-Cio (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred. These are obtained as foreshots during the distillative separation of technical Cs-Cis coconut fatty alcohol and may be contaminated with less than 6 wt% Ci₂ alcohol. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical Cg / n oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3) are also preferred. These are commercially available under the INCI name Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside. A commercially available alkyl oligoglucoside product is also preferred, the alkyl group of which R 4It is derived from technical-grade Cs-Cis coconut fatty alcohol and is available under the INCI name Coco-Glucoside. The alkyl group R 4 It can also be derived from primary alcohols with 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachiyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and their technical mixtures, which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on lauryl alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.
[0052] Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl oligoglycoside of formula R is included. 4 O-[G] P , in the R 4for an alkyl group with 8 to 18, preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, G for a glucose group and p for positive rational numbers from 1, 1 to 2, is selected from caprylyl glucoside, capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, n-tetradecyl glucoside, cetyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside, behenyl glucoside and mixtures of these glucosides, in particular mixtures called cocoglucoside, mixtures of caprylyl glucoside and capryl glucoside and mixtures of caprylyl glucoside, capryl glucoside and cocoglucoside.
[0053] Further preferred nonionic surfactants according to the invention are selected from glycerol mono- and diesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C12-Cso carboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one glycerol mono- or diester is selected from glycerol monostearate, glycerol distearate, glycerol monooleate, glycerol dioleate, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol dicaprinate, glycerol dicaprinate, glycerol monolaurate, glycerol dilaurate, glycerol monomyristate, glycerol dimyristate, glycerol monopaimitate, glycerol dipalmitate, glycerol mono-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol di-12-hydroxystearate, glycerol monolanolate, glycerol dilanolate, and mixtures of these substances.
[0054] Further non-ionic surfactants according to the invention are selected from N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I), where the acyl group R 5CO- is derived from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-C22 carboxylic acid, which may be hydroxylated. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one N-acyl-N-methylglucamide of formula (I) is selected from N-capryloyl-N-methylglucamide, N-caproyl-N-methylglucamide, N-lauroyl-N-methylglucamide, N-myristoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-palmitoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-stearoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-arachidoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-behenoyl-N-methylglucamide, and from mixtures of these compounds, in particular from mixtures designated N-cocoyl-N-methylglucamide.
[0055] Preferred agents for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I),
[0056] (I), where the acyl group R 5CO- derived from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-C22 carboxylic acid, which may be hydroxylated, in a total amount of 1-10 wt.%, preferably 3-8 wt.%, particularly preferably 5-6 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0057] Further preferred agents according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ionic surfactant in a total amount of 0.1 to 25 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 22 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 20 wt.%, further particularly preferably 2.0 to 18.0 wt.%, further particularly preferably 4.0 to 15.0 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 5.0 to 10.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0058] The conditioning agent according to the invention, "non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II)," can also act as a surfactant. In the alkaline environment of the composition according to the invention, these amidoalkylamines exist in a non-ionic form. However, for the purposes of this application, the conditioning agent "non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II)" is not considered a surfactant and is therefore not taken into account when calculating the amount of surfactant.
[0059] According to the manufacturer, the conditioning agent according to the invention, "estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V)," can also act as a non-ionic surfactant. However, for the purposes of the present application, the conditioning agent "estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V)" is not considered a surfactant and is therefore not taken into account when calculating the amount of surfactant.
[0060] In principle, all cationic surfactants suitable for use on the human body, as defined above, are suitable as cationic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers. These are characterized by at least one water-soluble cationic group, such as a quaternary ammonium group, or by at least one water-soluble, cationizable group, such as an amine group, and furthermore by at least one lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 6 to 30 carbon atoms, or also by at least one imidazole group or at least one imidazylalkyl group. For use in the hair conditioning composition defined herein, cationic surfactants from at least one of the groups of alkyl quats, ester quats, and quaternary imidazolines are particularly suitable.
[0061] Amidoalkylamines that have a cationizable group, such as an amine group, and that are nonionic in the alkaline environment of the compositions according to the invention are not considered cationic surfactants within the meaning of the present application.
[0062] Preferred agents according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic surfactant selected from quaternary ammonium compounds (alkyl quats) with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group, quaternary imidazolines, ester quats with at least one C8-C24 acyl group, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0063] Particularly preferred quaternary ammonium compounds with at least one C8-C24 alkyl group are the halides, especially chlorides, and the alkyl sulfates, such as methosulfates or ethosulfates, of C8-C24 alkyltrimethylammonium, C8-C24 dialkyldimethylammonium, and C8-C24 trialkylmethylammonium. The alkyl chains of the above-mentioned surfactants have 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and particularly preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Highly preferred cationic surfactants of this type are selected from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dilauryldimethylammonium chloride and lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, as well as mixtures thereof, wherein cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride are highly preferred.
[0064] Particularly preferred quaternary imidazoline compounds are selected from those having the following formula (III):
[0065] R 1 and R 2 independently of one another, represent a saturated or unsaturated C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl group, particularly preferably a saturated or unsaturated C15-C17 alkyl group,
[0066] X' is a physiologically acceptable anion.
[0067] A particularly preferred compound of this class according to the invention is Quaternium-87 (CAS number 92201-88-2), which is available, for example, from Evonik as Varisoft W 575 PG.
[0068] According to the invention, particularly preferred quaternary imidazolines or imidazolium compounds are selected from compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, 2024P00110WQ 25.11.2025
[0069] 14
[0070] Quaternium-87 and Quaternium-91 are known. A preferred compound according to the invention is Quaternium-87.
[0071] Esterquats are cationic surfactants that contain at least one ester group, at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element, and at least one C8-C24 alkyl group or one C8-C24 acyl group. The esterquat can have the following formula:
[0072] R19 and R20 independently represent a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group,
[0073] R21, R22 independently represent a C7-C27 alkyl group, preferably a C10-C22 alkyl group, and
[0074] X' is a physiologically acceptable anion.
[0075] Preferred esterquats are quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternary ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Stepantex®, Dehyquart®, and Armocare®. N,N-Bis(2-palmitoyloxyethyl)-dimethylammonium chloride, distearoylethyldimonium methosulfate, and distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate are preferred examples of such esterquats, particularly distearoylethylhydroxyethylmonium methosulfate. Another preferred esterquat is behenoyl PG-trimonium chloride.
[0076] Preferred agents for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.01 - 8 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 6 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1 - 4 wt.%, further extraordinarily preferably 1.1 - 3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0077] Zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants
[0078] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in their molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants include the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0079] Amphoteric surfactants are defined as surface-active compounds that, in addition to a Cs-C24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SChH group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and Ci2-Ci8-acylsarcosine. Suitable anionic surfactants are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body that contain a water-soluble anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group.and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the molecule. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of surfactants suitable as additional anionic surfactants, which differ from component b), are, in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium as well as mono-, di-, and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group, linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosides, acyltaurides, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofatis methyl esters of fatty acids, and C8-C2o alkyl ether sulfates with 1 to 4 ethoxy groups.Sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkyl propylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, as well as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates. Preferred additional anionic surfactants, different from component b), are soaps, Cs-C2o alkyl ether sulfates, and Cs-C2o ether carboxylic acids with 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule.
[0080] Preferred agents for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one surfactant, selected from zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants as well as mixtures of these surfactants, in a total amount of 0.1 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.2 to 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt.%, further particularly preferably 1.0 to 4.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 1.5 to 3.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention. According to the invention, particularly preferred agents for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers are characterized in that they contain at least one surfactant, selected from anionic, nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants as well as mixtures of these surfactants, in a total amount of 0.1 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 25 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 to 22 wt.%, further particularly preferably 3.0 to 21 wt.%.-%, more preferably 5.0 to 18 wt.%, extremely preferably 7.0 to 15 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent according to the invention.
[0081] A further mandatory component of the compositions according to the invention, and of preferred compositions according to the invention, is a content of at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably in a total amount – based on the weight of the composition – of 2–15 wt.%, more preferably of 4–13 wt.%, particularly preferably of 5–11 wt.%, and most preferably of 7–9 wt.%. It was surprisingly found that linear 1-alkanols with 8 to 40 carbon atoms contribute significantly to the conditioning effect of the composition, particularly in combination with the mandatory conditioning agent g). At the same time, other advantageous application properties, in particular the homogeneity of the color change result and the viscosity stability of the application mixture from the keratin fibers, are surprisingly improved.
[0082] Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms is selected from octan-1-ol (octyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol), decan-1-ol (decyl alcohol, capric alcohol), dodecan-1-ol (dodecyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol), tetradecan-1-ol (tetradecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol), hexadecan-1-ol (hexadecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol), octadecan-1-ol (octadecyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol), eicosan-1-ol (eicosyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol), docosan-1-ol (docosyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol), (13E)-docosen-1-ol (brassidyl alcohol), (13Z)-docos-13-en-1-ol (erucyl alcohol) and lanolin alcohol, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0083] As already stated above, the agent according to the invention represents the alkalizing component of a two-part oxidative dyeing or lightening agent, which is mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution shortly before application and then applied directly to the hair.
[0084] Oxidative color change processes on keratin fibers typically occur in a neutral to alkaline environment. Therefore, the pH value of the agent according to the invention is in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably in the range of 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0085] As a further mandatory ingredient, the composition according to the invention therefore contains at least one alkalizing agent. The alkalizing agents preferably suited for adjusting the pH value of the composition according to the invention are selected from ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances.
[0086] Preferred means for color change according to the invention are characterized in that they contain no ammonia and no ammonium hydroxide.
[0087] Particularly preferred alkalizing agents are selected from alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates, and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances. The alkali metal ions in the aforementioned alkalizing salts are preferably lithium, sodium, or potassium, particularly sodium or potassium.
[0088] The basic amino acids that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from the group consisting of L-arginine, D-arginine, D,L-arginine, L-lysine, D-lysine, D,L-lysine, and mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred basic amino acids are L-arginine, L-lysine, and mixtures thereof.
[0089] The alkali hydroxides that can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide, as well as mixtures thereof. Potassium hydroxide is particularly preferred according to the invention.
[0090] The alkanolamines that can be used as alkalizing agents preferably have 2 to 9 carbon atoms in the molecule and are particularly preferably selected from primary amines with a C2-C6 alkyl core structure bearing at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed from 2-aminoethanol-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol, as well as mixtures thereof. According to the invention, particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group consisting of 2-aminoethan-1-ol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol and 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol; 2-aminoethan-1-ol is especially preferred.However, secondary amines, such as diisopropanolamine (1,1'-lminodipropan-2-ol), are also suitable alkalizing agents according to the invention. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, L-lysine, and mixtures thereof as alkalizing agents. Extremely preferred agents according to the invention for color modification contain a mixture of 2-aminoethanol-1-ol, potassium hydroxide, L-arginine, and L-lysine.
[0091] Preferred means for color change according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkalizing agent is contained in a total amount of 0.5 - 10 wt.%, preferably 0.7 - 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.0 - 5 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 1.2 - 3 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent.
[0092] The compositions according to the invention are intended for use in the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, particularly human hair. In oxidative color modification processes, the composition according to the invention (M1), which is neutral or alkaline and preferably contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and optionally one or more direct dyes, is typically mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) having an acidic pH value immediately before application to the keratin fibers to form a ready-to-use color modification agent. This mixture is then applied to the keratin fibers immediately after mixing. The neutral to alkaline medium of the application mixture activates the hydrogen peroxide, thereby breaking down the melanin in the keratin fibers.If the composition (M1) according to the invention contains oxidation dye precursors, the hydrogen peroxide causes these to react with one another and form permanent dyes. To prevent this dye formation from starting during storage of the composition, the compositions according to the invention contain zero to less than 0.1 wt% peroxide compounds by weight.
[0093] In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention for changing the color of keratin fibers contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor.
[0094] Oxidation dye precursors can be divided into two categories based on their reaction behavior: developer components and coupler components.
[0095] Coupler components alone do not produce significant coloration during oxidative staining; they always require the presence of developer components. Developer components can react with themselves to form the actual dye.
[0096] The developer and coupler components are usually used in free form. However, for substances with amino groups, it may be preferable to use them in salt form, particularly as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, or sulfates.
[0097] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from at least one compound from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(1,2-dihydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine, N,N'-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis-(4-aminophenyl)-1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol, bis-(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 1,3-bis-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)propan-2-ol, N,N'-Bis-(4-amino-phenyl)-1,4-diazacycloheptane, 1, 10-bis-(2,5-diaminophenyl)-1,4,7, 10-tetraoxadecane, p-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(1 ,2-dihydroxyethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-(diethylaminomethyl)phenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 2, 4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine,the physiologically compatible salts of these compounds as well as mixtures of these developer components and developer component salts.
[0098] Particularly preferred developer components are selected from 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, N-(4-amino-3-methylphenyl)-N-[3-(1H-imidazol-1-yl)propyl]amine and mixtures of these compounds as well as their physiologically acceptable salts. Extraordinarily preferred are 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, p-toluenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine and mixtures of these compounds as well as their physiologically acceptable salts.
[0099] Preferably, at least one developer component or its salt is included in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.
[0100] Preferably, at least one coupler component or its salt is included in a total amount of 0.001 to 4 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, and most preferably 0.1 to 1 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1) according to the invention.
[0101] Preferably, the total amount of oxidation dye precursors or their salts in the composition (M1) according to the invention is 0.011 to 9 wt.%, preferably 0.11 to 7 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.6 to 3.0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition (M1).
[0102] Coupler components according to the invention allow at least one substitution of a chemical residue of the coupler by the oxidized form of the developer component. This results in the formation of a covalent bond between the coupler and developer components. Couplers are preferably cyclic compounds bearing at least two groups on the cycle, selected from optionally substituted amino groups and / or hydroxyl groups. If the cyclic compound is a six-membered ring (preferably aromatic), the aforementioned groups are preferably located in the ortho or meta position relative to each other.
[0103] Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one oxidation dye precursor of the coupler type is selected from one of the following classes:
[0104] - 3-Aminophenol (m-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,
[0105] - 3-Aminoaniline (m-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
[0106] - 2-Aminoaniline (1,2-Diaminobenzene; o-Diaminobenzene) and / or its derivatives,
[0107] - 2-Aminophenol (o-Aminophenol) and / or its derivatives,
[0108] - Naphthalene derivatives with at least one hydroxyl group,
[0109] - Di- or trihydroxybenzene and / or their derivatives,
[0110] - Pyridine derivatives,
[0111] - Pyrimidine derivatives,
[0112] - Monohydroxyindole derivatives and / or monoaminoindole derivatives,
[0113] - Monohydroxyindoline derivatives and / or monoaminoindoline derivatives,
[0114] - Pyrazolone derivatives, such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
[0115] - Morpholine derivatives, such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine or 6-aminobenzomorpholine, 2024P00110WC 25.11.2025
[0116] 20
[0117] - Quinoxaline derivatives, such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
[0118] Mixtures of two or more compounds from one or more of these classes are also preferred in this embodiment according to the invention.
[0119] Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Kupplerkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus 3-Aminophe- nol, 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 2-Hydroxy-4-aminophenoxy- ethanol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-Dichlor-3- aminophenol, 2-Aminophenol, 3-Phenylendiamin, 2-(2,4-Diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1 ,3-Bis(2,4- diaminophenoxy)propan, 1-beta-Hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylendioxyanilin (alternativ: 2-(1 ,3-Benzodi- oxol-5-ylamino)ethanol), 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2’-hydroxyethylamino)benzol (= 2-Amino-4-hydro- xyethylaminoanisol), 1 ,3-Bis (2,4-diaminophenyl)propan, 2,6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methyl- benzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxy- ethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4,5-di- methylphenyl}amino)ethanol, 2-[3-Morpholin-4-ylphenyl)amino]ethanol, 3-Amino-4-(2-methoxy- ethoxy)-5-methylphenylamin, 1-Amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzol,Resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindolin, 6-hydroxyindolin, 7-hydroxyindolin or mixtures of these compounds or the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.
[0120] Particularly preferred are 3-aminophenol, resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-(2,4-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 1-naphthol, and 1-beta-hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline, as well as their physiologically acceptable salts and mixtures of the aforementioned components. It may be preferable to omit resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives such as 2-methylresorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol.
[0121] The oxidation dye precursors (developers and couplers) themselves are not colored; rather, the formation of the actual dyes only occurs during application through the contact of the oxidation dye precursors with the oxidizing agent (hydrogen peroxide). In a chemical reaction, the developers used as oxidation dye precursors (such as p-phenylenediamine or its similarly acting derivatives) are first oxidatively converted by hydrogen peroxide into a reactive intermediate, also called quinone imine or quinone diimine, which then reacts with the couplers in an oxidative coupling reaction to form the respective dye.
[0122] Oxidative hair dyes allow hair to be colored in both intense, fashionable shades and natural tones by selecting the appropriate developer and coupler components. A major application of oxidative dyes is the coloring of gray hair in a natural shade similar to the hair color the user had in their younger years. A classic combination for creating oxidative colors in brown hair is... 2024P00110WG 25.11.2025
[0123] For shades 21 to dark blonde, experts are familiar with the use of developers based on the basic structure of 1,4-diaminobenzene (para-phenylenediamine) and couplers with resorcinol structure (1,3-dihydroxybenzene).
[0124] These oxidation dyes have been used for decades. Although they are intended only for extracorporeal application on keratin fibers such as scalp hair, eyelashes, and eyebrows, contact of the dye with the scalp cannot be completely avoided during application. To ensure the highest possible product safety for consumers, commercially available oxidation dye precursors are continuously tested for their physiological compatibility, for example, by the Scientific Committee on Consumer Goods (SCCP), an advisory body to the European Commission. It is known that some oxidation dye precursors, particularly some para-phenylenediamine oxidation bases, can have a certain sensitization potential.Therefore, customers are advised to perform a preliminary test with a small amount of the dye on their skin before applying it to their hair, in order to rule out allergic reactions during or after the dyeing process. In addition to skin sensitization, other physiological effects are also monitored.
[0125] Resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, and 2-methylresorcinol are common oxidative dye precursors with a 1,3-dihydroxybenzene core. In its most recent opinion from March 2021, the SCCP concluded that the use of resorcinol in oxidative hair dyes is considered safe at a resorcinol concentration of up to 1.25% by weight in the ready-to-use mixture. The SCCP noted that resorcinol has an antithyroid effect. While a precise exposure level required for such an effect cannot be derived from available human studies, most of these studies suggest a much higher exposure than is typical for cosmetics.
[0126] To address the concerns of some consumers regarding product safety, one objective of the present invention was to provide an agent for the oxidative coloring of keratin fibers, particularly human hair, which can cover a broad color spectrum, especially a natural color palette with cool and warm natural tones, as well as a gold color series, resulting in colorations with high fastness properties without compromising product safety. In particular, coloring in these natural shades should be possible without the use of recorcin-type couplers, especially resorcinol itself and 4-chlororesorcinol.
[0127] Many users have dyed their hair the same shade for decades and do not want a sudden, obviously visible change to their usual hair color. For these users, it is therefore essential to be able to replace their usual resorcinol-containing hair dye with a new, resorcinol-free product without any shift in shade. The exchange of dyes should also be inconspicuous in a foam-based dye. An additional challenge of the present application was therefore to find a resorcinol-free hair dye in foam form whose dyeing properties and color result correspond as closely as possible to the previously used resorcinol-containing dye. The stability of the foam should not be negatively affected by the exchange, and the color intensity of the resulting dye should not be diminished and ideally even enhanced.
[0128] 2-(1,3-Benzodioxole-5-ylamino)ethanol
[0129] Surprisingly, the coupler 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol is suitable as a replacement for resorcinol and its coupler-acting derivatives 4-chlororesorcinol and 2-methylresorcinol.
[0130] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the dye therefore contains the coupler 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol and / or one or more of its salts.
[0131] 2-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol is alternatively known as hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline or N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline. The coupler is particularly preferably used in the form of its hydrochloride, which can then be called 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol monohydrochloride, 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol hydrochloride, or 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol HCl, and has the INCI name hydroxyethyl-3,4-methylenedioxyaniline HCl. The coupler has the Colipa number A98, and its hydrochloride salt has the CAS number 94158-14-2. 2-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol (hydrochloride) has the following structural formula
[0132] 2-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol can be present in the dye according to the invention in the form of its free base or in the form of a salt or a physiologically acceptable salt. A physiologically acceptable salt is understood to be a developer salt that is well tolerated by the user under physiological conditions, i.e., during application of the dye. Physiologically acceptable salts are, in particular, the chlorides, bromides, sulfates, and hemisulfates of the aforementioned suitable and preferred oxidation dye precursors of the developer type according to the invention. The hydrochloride of 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol is especially preferred.
[0133] When using a dye preferably according to the invention, containing the combination of 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol, a particularly uniform coloration with high color intensity was achieved. 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol and / or its salts are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the dye according to the invention. Preferably, the dye according to the invention contains, based on its weight, one or more couplers from the group consisting of 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol and / or its salts in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 0.90 wt.%.
[0134] The base color of the natural shade can be created by combining the developer with 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol. To intensify the color result, achieve precise nuance, and / or fine-tune the desired shade, the oxidative dye can optionally contain at least one additional coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, different from 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol.
[0135] Avoidance of resorcinol-type couplers
[0136] As previously described, the dyes preferred according to the invention should be used to develop intense colorations in the natural tone range, which replicate as closely as possible the nuances produced with resorcinol-containing dyes, without relying on the use of resorcinol-type couplers.
[0137] Resorcinol-type couplers, or couplers from the resorcinol group, refer to 1,3-dihydroxybenzene and its derivatives. Derivatives of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene are defined as all compounds that possess a 1,3-dihydroxybenzene basic structure and bear additional substituents, while still retaining both hydroxyl groups of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene.
[0138] The couplers from the resorcinol group that are typically used in market products are resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol. Therefore, the term "couplers from the resorcinol group" specifically refers to resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol, and 4-chlororesorcinol.
[0139] A preferred embodiment of the invention focuses primarily on the omission of resorcinol itself and 4-chlororesorcinol. The omission of 4-chlororesorcinol is particularly important because, during storage, it can convert to resorcinol to a significant extent due to the elimination of its halogen atom. For this reason, it has proven particularly advantageous if the total amount of couplers from the group consisting of resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol contained in the dye according to the invention is below 0.1 wt.%, preferably below 0.05 wt.%, particularly preferably below 0.01 wt.%, and most preferably at 0 wt.%.
[0140] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a dyeing agent according to the invention is characterized in that, based on its weight, the total amount of couplers contained in the dyeing agent according to the invention from the group consisting of resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol is below 0.1 wt.%, preferably below 0.05 wt.%, more preferably below 0.01 wt.% and most preferably at 0 wt.%.
[0141] A dye containing 0% by weight of resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol is free of resorcinol and free of 4-chlororesorcinol.
[0142] By combining resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol with developer-type oxidation dye precursors, especially with developers with a p-phenylenediamine basic structure, ash-colored, greenish nuances can be produced, which are particularly important for cool natural nuances.
[0143] Surprisingly, these nuances can also be achieved without the use of resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol by combining the developers with 2-(1,3-benzodioxole-5-ylamino)ethanol. The color result obtained by combining 2-methylresorcinol with the developers is more golden, thus enabling the development of warm, natural shades. This warm, golden natural tone is particularly difficult to replicate. Therefore, to create a warm blonde tone on keratin fibers, it can be advantageous to include 2-methylresorcinol in very small quantities in the dye according to the invention.
[0144] The coloring of the hair in a warm golden tone can be achieved if a coloring agent preferred according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 0 to 1.80 wt.%, preferably 0 to 1.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.40 wt.%, even more preferably 0.001 to 0.15 wt.% and most preferably 0.001 to 0.08 wt.% 2-methylresorcinol.
[0145] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a dye according to the invention is characterized in that, based on its weight, the total amount of 2-methylresorcinol contained in the dye according to the invention is in the range of 0 to 1.80 wt.%, preferably 0 to 1.00 wt.%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.40 wt.%, even more preferably 0.001 to 0.15 wt.% and most preferably 0.001 to 0.08 wt.%.
[0146] A coloring agent according to the invention is particularly preferred, which, in addition to the obligatory ingredients,
[0147] (i) at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and
[0148] (ii) 2-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol and / or its salts, wherein, based on the weight of the dye,
[0149] - the total amount of couplers from the group consisting of resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol contained in the dye according to the invention is below 0.05 wt.% and
[0150] - the total amount of 2-methylresorcinol contained in the dye according to the invention is in the range of 0.001 to 0.15 wt.%.
[0151] A dyeing agent according to the invention is also particularly preferred, which, in addition to the obligatory ingredients,
[0152] (i) at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and
[0153] (ii) 2-(1,3-Benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol and / or its salts, wherein, based on the weight of the dye,
[0154] - the total amount of couplers from the group consisting of resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol contained in the dye according to the invention is below 0.05 wt.%, and
[0155] - the total amount of 2-methylresorcinol contained in the dye according to the invention is in the range of 0.001 to 0.08 wt.%.
[0156] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention as a dye, it may also be preferred to dispense with all couplers from the group of resorcinols.
[0157] In a further particularly preferred embodiment, a dye according to the invention is characterized in that, based on its weight, the total amount of the coupler-type oxidation dye precursors contained in the compound from the group of resorcinols, in particular from the group of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol, is below 0.1 wt.%, preferably below 0.05 wt.%, particularly preferably below 0.01 wt.% and most preferably at 0 wt.%.
[0158] Particularly natural nuances with a high degree of similarity to the corresponding resorcinol-containing dyes could be obtained when the dye additionally contained one or more couplers selected from group X, consisting of 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol and / or 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 6-hydroxyindole or mixtures of these couplers or their physiologically acceptable salts. For this reason, the use of couplers from this group is explicitly preferred.
[0159] The optionally usable couplers from the aforementioned group X are preferably used in specific quantity ranges in the composition according to the invention. Particularly good results were obtained when the dyeing agent according to the invention contained, based on its weight, one or more oxidation dye precursors of coupler type X in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.%.
[0160] In a further preferred embodiment, a dye according to the invention is therefore characterized in that it contains, based on its weight, one or more oxidation dye precursors of coupler type X in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.% and most preferably 0.15 to 2.5 wt.%.
[0161] In order to achieve a balanced and subtle nuance formation or to mattify undesirable residual color impressions caused by melanin degradation products, especially in the reddish or bluish range, it is preferred according to the invention if further color-giving components are included in the oxidative color-changing agent according to the invention.
[0162] In a further embodiment, the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention can therefore additionally contain at least one direct dye. These are dyes that adhere directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are typically nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, or indophenols.
[0163] Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic, or nonionic. The direct dyes are preferably present in an amount of 0.001 to 2% by weight, based on the weight of the oxidative color-changing agent.
[0164] Preferred anionic direct dyes are the compounds known under the international names or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57:1, Acid Blue 7, Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Bromophenol Blue and Tetrabromophenol Blue. Preferred cationic direct-drawing dyes are cationic triphenylmethane dyes, for example Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14; aromatic systems substituted with a quaternary nitrogen group, such as Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17; cationic anthraquinone dyes, such as HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B); and direct-drawing dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom, in particular Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51.The cationic direct dyes marketed under the trademark Arianor are also preferred cationic direct dyes according to the invention. Nonionic direct dyes particularly suitable are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes. Preferred nonionic direct dyes are those known by the international names or...Handelsnamen HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1 , Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1 , HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 bekannten Verbindungen, sowie 1 ,4-Diamino-2-nitrobenzol, 2-Amino-4-nitrophenol, 1 ,4-Bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)- amino-2-nitrobenzol, 3-Nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminophenol, 2-(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitro- phenol, 4-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-3-nitro-1 -methylbenzol, 1-Amino-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-5- chlor-2-nitrobenzol, 4-Amino-3-nitrophenol, 1-(2'-Ureidoethyl)amino-4-nitrobenzol, 2-[(4-Amino-2- nitrophenyl)amino]-benzoesäure, 6-Nitro-1 ,2,3,4-tetrahydrochinoxalin, 2-Hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthochi- non, Pikraminsäure und deren Salze, 2-Amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-Ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoe- säure und 2-Chlor-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol.According to the invention, at least one cationic direct dye selected from Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, HC Blue 16 (Bluequat B), Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31 and Basic Red 51, as well as mixtures thereof, is particularly preferred.
[0165] As a further mandatory ingredient, the oxidative color-changing agent according to the invention contains, based on its weight, at least one conditioning agent selected from a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%.
[0166] - at least one compound selected from hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate,
[0167] - Polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent,
[0168] - Triolein,
[0169] - non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II), where
[0170] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0171] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0172] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other for a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl
[0173] Group stand, especially preferred R 2 and R 3 each represent a methyl group,
[0174] - at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0175] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl.
[0176] - as well as mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents.
[0177] The oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least one compound selected from hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate, is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent.Surprisingly, it was found that the at least one compound selected from hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate in an agent according to the invention for oxidative color change limits the extent of damage to the keratin fibers caused by the harsh chemicals, which is noticeable, among other things, by an objectively measured improvement in wet combability, as described in the experimental part of this application.
[0178] In a further embodiment of the present invention, the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent. It was surprisingly found that the at least one compound selected from polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which are substituted with at least one cationic substituent, in an agent according to the invention for oxidative color change, limits the extent of the damage to the keratin fibers caused by the harsh chemicals, which is noticeable, among other things, by an objectively measured improvement in wet combability, as is shown in the experimental part of this application.
[0179] The plant genus Senna comprises a large portion of the species previously classified as Cassia (Senna). Senna tora was previously often referred to as Cassia tora. Senna obtusifolia was previously often referred to as Cassia obtusifolia. The plant genus Senna belongs to the subfamily Caesalpinioideae within the legume family Fabaceae. Polygalactomannans are polysaccharides found in the endosperm of legume seeds. A polygalactomannan consists of a chain of 1->4-linked β-D-mannopyranosyl units with recurring 1->6-linked side chains of αD-galactosyl groups branching off from carbon atom number 6 of a mannopyranose residue. The galactomannan polymers of the different Leguminosae species differ in the frequency of occurrence of the galactosyl side chains branching off from the polymannopyranose backbone.The average ratio of D-mannosyl to D-galactosyl units in polygalactomannan is approximately 2:1 for guar gum, approximately 3:1 for tara gum, and approximately 4:1 for locust bean gum. Another important source of polygalactomannan is Senna tora (Cassia tora) and Senna obtusifolia (Cassia obtusifolia). The average ratio of D-mannosyl to D-galactosyl in senna polygalactomannan (Cassia polygalactomannan) is at least 5:1. 2024P00110WG 25.1 1.2025.
[0180] 29
[0181] The cationization of the senna polygalactomannan used according to the invention is carried out by replacing some of the hydrogen groups of the hydroxy groups in the mannosyl and galactosyl residues with a group represented by the formula -AR 23 , in which
[0182] A represents a substituted or unsubstituted alkylene group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R 23 for a group -N(R 24 )s+ X- stands for
[0183] R 24 independently of each other stands for substituted and unsubstituted C1 to C24 alkyl groups, substituted and unsubstituted benzyl groups and substituted and unsubstituted phenyl groups and
[0184] X' represents any suitable anion that balances the charge of the onium cation.
[0185] In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, A represents a substituted alkylene group with 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which is substituted with one or more substituents selected from C1-C3 alkyl, C1-C3 haloalkyl, hydroxyl, and halogen. In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, A represents a substituted alkylene group with 2 to 3 carbon atoms, which is substituted with one or more substituents selected from C1-C3 alkyl, in particular methyl, and hydroxyl. In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, A represents a substituted propylene group, which is substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups. Senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonia-propyl) groups are particularly preferred according to the invention. Preferred anionic counterions X- are selected from the halide ions, in particular chloride ions.Furthermore, according to the invention, senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups and containing chloride as counterions are particularly preferred.
[0186] The synthesis of such exceptionally preferred canonized senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) according to the invention is disclosed in WO 2010033302 A1, in particular in Examples 1 and 3.
[0187] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the cationized senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) has a cationic charge density in the range of 1.4 - 3.5 meq / g, preferably 1.5 - 3.2, particularly preferably 1.6 - 3.0 meq / g.
[0188] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the cationized senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) has a molecular weight in the range of 200000 - 3000000, preferably 300000 - 2000000, particularly preferably 400000 - 1000000 Daltons. In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups is cationized with chloride as a counterion, has a cationic charge density in the range of 1.4 - 3.5 meq / g, preferably 1.5 - 3.2, particularly preferably 1.6 - 3.0 meq / g and a molecular weight in the range of 200000 - 3000000, preferably 300000 - 2000000, particularly preferably 400000 - 1000000 Daltons.
[0189] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, at least one canonized senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) is present in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 2024P00110WC 25.11.2025
[0190] 30
[0191] % by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0 % by weight, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 to 0.5 % by weight, each based on the weight of the color-changing agent.
[0192] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, at least one senna polygalactomannan (cassia polygalactomannan) cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups with chloride as counterion, has a cationic charge density in the range of 1.4 - 3.5 meq / g, preferably 1.5 - 3.2, particularly preferably 1.6 - 3.0 meq / g and a molecular weight in the range of 200,000 - 3,000,000, preferably 300,000 - 2,000,000, particularly preferably 400,000 - 1,000,000 Daltons, in a total amount of 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent, is included.
[0193] Further oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on the weight of the color-changing agent, 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 1.5 to 3.0 wt.% triolein.
[0194] Surprisingly, it was found that triolein in an agent according to the invention for oxidative color change limits the extent of damage to the keratin fibers caused by the harsh chemicals, which is noticeable, among other things, by an objectively measured improvement in wet combability, as described in the experimental part of this application.
[0195] In a further embodiment of the present invention, the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamine of formula (II), r, H
[0196] 1\ R2c (CH2) n — N\
[0197] O R3
[0198] (II)
[0199] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0200] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0201] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of one another, representing a methyl, ethyl, or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each representing a methyl group, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 1.0 to 2.5 wt.%, based on the weight of the color-changing agent.
[0202] Surprisingly, it was found that the at least one compound selected from amido-alkylamines according to the preceding formula (II) in an agent according to the invention for oxidative color change limits the extent of the damage to the keratin fibers caused by the harsh chemicals, which is noticeable, among other things, by an objectively measured improvement in wet combability, as shown in the experimental part of this application.
[0203] Amidoalkylamines are typically prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic C8-C24 fatty acids or C8-C24 fatty acid fractions with di-(C1-C3)alkylaminoamines. According to the invention, preferred amidoalkylamines have the following formula (II): wherein
[0204] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0205] - the index n is the number 3 or 4, preferably 3,
[0206] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of one another, representing a methyl, ethyl, or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each represents a methyl group.
[0207] Particularly preferred residues R 1 are selected from n-undecyl, n-tridecyl, n-pentadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-nonadecyl and n-heneicosanyl, as well as from mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred amidoalkylamines of formula (II) are C12-C22-amido-n-propyldimethylamines.
[0208] The amidoalkylamines according to formula (II) are so-called pseudoquats. All organic residues are directly bonded to the nitrogen atom. In the acidic pH range, these are cationized, i.e., the nitrogen atom is protonated, with the anionic counterions of the protonated amidoalkylamines being the acid anions contained in the respective composition. In the alkaline environment of the compositions according to the invention, these amidoalkylamines exist in a nonionic state. Particularly preferred amidoalkylamines of the above formula (II) are selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.Palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, Lauramidopropyldimethylamine, Cocamidopropyldimethylamine, Ricinoleamidopropyldimethylamine, Isostearamidopropyldimethylamine, Oleamidopropyldimethylamine, Sunflowerseedamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Brassicamidopropyldimethylamine and mixtures thereof, particularly preferably selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, palmitamidopropyldimethylamine and brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, and most preferably selected from stearamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0209] In a further preferred embodiment according to the invention, the color-changing agent contains 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 1.0 to 2.5 wt.% stearamidopropyldimethylamine, based on the weight of the color-changing agent.
[0210] In a further embodiment of the present invention, the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, and extremely preferably 1.0 to 2.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the color-changing agent, at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V). where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0211] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl.
[0212] Surprisingly, it was found that the at least one compound selected from estolide esters of a ricinoleic acid oligomer according to the above formula (V) in an agent according to the invention for oxidative color change limits the extent of the damage to the keratin fibers caused by the harsh chemicals, which is noticeable, among other things, by an objectively measured improvement in wet combability, as is shown in the experimental part of this application.
[0213] Estolides are oligomers of unsaturated fatty acids that are formed when the carboxylic acid group of one fatty acid reacts with a reactive site on the carbon group of another fatty acid molecule, for example, at a double bond or a hydroxyl group, to form oligomeric esters. A suitable acid for the formation of estolides is ricinoleic acid, an 18-carbon fatty acid whose carbon chain contains both a double bond and a hydroxyl group as substituents. Estolides can also form estolid esters by esterification of their free carboxyl groups with long-chain fatty alcohols.
[0214] Estolid esters comparable to compounds of structural formula (V), but with a slightly lower degree of oligomerization n, are disclosed in WO2016174256A1. Estolid esters with the INCI name Lauryl / Myristyl Polyricinoleate are particularly preferred according to the invention. Estolid esters with the INCI name Lauryl / Myristyl Polyricinoleate having an average molecular weight of about 3800 g / mol are extremely preferred according to the invention. A preferred commercially available estolid ester mixture is available from Clariant under the trade name Genadvance Hydra.
[0215] In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, oxidative color-changing agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they are present in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 4.0 wt.%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.0 wt.%, and most preferably 1.0 to 2.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the colorant. 2024P00110WÖ 25.1 1.2025
[0216] 33. Amendment, containing at least one estolide ester with the INGI name Lauryl / Myristyl Polyricinoleate and an average molecular weight of 3800 g / mol.
[0217] Surprisingly, it was found that the conditioning properties of the agents (M1) according to the invention can be improved by the addition of at least one further fat component, which differs from the mandatory components c), g)-iii) and g)-v).
[0218] Further preferred means (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one fat component which differs from the mandatory components c), g)-iii) and g)-v) and which is selected from oils liquid at 25°C and fat components with a melting point in the range of >25°C to 120°C, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0219] Fatty components according to the invention are lipophilic organic substances that have a water solubility of at most 0.001 wt% or less at 20°C. According to the invention, these fatty substances include oils, fats, and waxes. Linear saturated fatty alcohols are considered nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention. Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are also not considered fatty substances within the meaning of the present invention.
[0220] Particularly preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one fatty component, which differs from the obligatory components c), g)-iii) and g)-v), is selected from branched and saturated or unsaturated alkanoic compounds with 6 to 30 carbon atoms, glycerol triesters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated glucosinolates, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched glucosinolates, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, mineral oil, isoparaffins, polydecenes, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from branched and saturated or unsaturated alkanoic compounds with 6 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, glycerol triesters of linear or branched,saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated Cs-so fatty acids, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched O2-gio-alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof.
[0221] Among the oils preferred according to the invention, which are liquid at 25°G and are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 6 - 30 carbon atoms, are 2-octyldodecanol, 2-hexyldecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, of which 2-octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.
[0222] Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated Cs-so fatty acids. Be- 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025
[0223] 34. The use of natural oils, e.g., argan oil, moringa oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, marula oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid components of coconut oil and the like, as well as mixtures of these oils, can be particularly suitable. Synthetic triglyceride oils or those obtained by transesterification of natural oils are also suitable, especially gaprilic / gaprilic triglycerides, e.g., the commercial product Myritol® 318 (BASF) with unbranched fatty acid residues, as well as glyceryl triisostearin with branched fatty acid residues.
[0224] Further oils particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-Cio-alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di-(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di-(2-hexyldecyl) succinate.
[0225] Further oils that may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2-30 carbon atoms, with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and which are preferably selected from isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isonyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-Hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleylerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate, hexyl decyl stearate, hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate.
[0226] Further oils that may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. It may be preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.
[0227] Further preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one fat component, which differs from the obligatory components c), g)-iii) and g)-v), is selected from fat components with a melting point in the range of >25°C to 120°C, preferably selected from paraffin wax, saturated n-alkanes with at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably with 22 to 60 carbon atoms, for example docosane, Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), mango butter, cocoa butter and esters of saturated, monohydric Cs-Cis alcohols with saturated Ci2-Ci8 monocarboxylic acids, in particular stearyl laurate, cetearyl stearate, cetyl palmitate and myristyl myristate, esters of a saturated, monohydric Cie-Ceo-alkanol and a saturated Cs-Cae monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, Stearyl behenate C2o-C4o alkyl stearate, candelilla wax, carnauba wax and beeswax, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C12-Co carboxylic acids,which may be hydroxylated, in particular castor wax, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances.
[0228] Further particularly preferred means (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025
[0229] 35 they contain at least one fat component, different from the mandatory components c), g)-iii) and g)-v), in a total amount of 0.1 - 5 wt.%, preferably 0.2 - 4 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 - 3 wt.% and extraordinarily preferably 1 to 2 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent (M1 ).
[0230] Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not considered fatty substances within the meaning of the present invention. According to the invention, essential oils are understood to be mixtures of volatile components produced by steam distillation from plant raw materials, such as citrus oils. Whenever the present application refers to a cosmetic oil, this always refers to a cosmetic oil that is neither a fragrance nor an essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions, and is immiscible with water.
[0231] The definition of an odorant as used in this application corresponds to the professionally accepted definition found in the RÖMPP Chemistry Lexicon, dated December 2007. According to this definition, an odorant is a chemical compound with an odor and / or taste that stimulates the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The necessary physical and chemical properties are a low molar mass of no more than 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water solubility and high lipid solubility, weak polarity, and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule.In order to distinguish volatile, low-molecular-weight substances, which are usually and also within the meaning of the present application not regarded and used as fragrances but primarily as solvents, such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone, from fragrances according to the invention, fragrances according to the invention have a molar mass of 74 to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have an odor and / or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system.
[0232] Particularly preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one essential oil, perfume oil or fragrance, preferably in a total amount of 0.1 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.2 - 1 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.5 - 0.8 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
[0233] According to the invention, preferred color-changing agents have a viscosity in the range of 5000 - 50000 mPas, preferably 5500 - 30000 mPas, particularly preferably 6000 - 25000 mPas, and most preferably 6500 - 20000 mPas, each measured at 20°C.
[0234] The ready-to-use mixture of the color-changing agent according to the invention, or preferably according to the invention, and the hydrogen peroxide solution preferably has a viscosity in the range of 5000-20000 mPas, more preferably 6000-18000 mPas, particularly preferably 6500-15000 mPas, and most preferably 7000-12000 mPas, in each case measured at 20°C. A Haake MVII rheometer can be used for measurement, for example at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0235] Further preferred compositions (M1) according to the invention are characterized in that they do not contain any polymer or copolymer with acrylate-, methacrylate- or vinyl-containing monomers and no polyurethane, i.e., that, based on their weight, 0.0 wt.% of the aforementioned (co-)polymers are contained in (M1).
[0236] Oxidative color-changing agents containing ammonia or ammonium hydroxide release ammonia during the color-changing process. Therefore, non-volatile alkalizing agents, i.e., all alkalizing agents other than ammonia or ammonium hydroxide, may be preferred according to the invention. Consequently, for some applications according to the invention, it may be preferable for the agents to not contain ammonia or ammonium hydroxide as alkalizing agents.
[0237] A further object of the present invention is a kit-of-parts which, packaged separately, comprises: i) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.-% at least one conditioning agent selected from i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II), 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025.
[0238] 37 where
[0239] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0240] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0241] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R3 each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0242] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, and most preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, containing and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant. 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025.
[0243] 38
[0244] In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, this kit further comprises a separately packaged oxidizing agent preparation (M3) containing h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and i) 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% values refer in each case to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.
[0245] Regarding further preferred embodiments of the kit according to the invention and preferred according to the invention, what has been said about the means for oxidative color change according to the invention and preferred according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
[0246] A further object of the present invention is the use of an agent according to the invention or a preferred agent according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agent according to the invention and preferred agents according to the invention for the oxidative color change applies mutatis mutandis.
[0247] A further object of the present invention is a process for oxidative color change, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.-% at least one conditioning agent selected from i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025.
[0248] 39 iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II), (II)
[0249] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0250] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0251] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2and R 3 each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0252] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 to 20 wt.%. wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one surfactant and / or an oil, iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), before- 2024P00110WG 25.11.2025.
[0253] 40. The mixture is prepared in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately followed by: iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30-60°C, preferably at 32-50°C; v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition; and vi) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.
[0254] For oxidative hair coloring processes, the inventive agent (M1), which is adjusted to an alkaline pH and optionally contains one or more oxidation dye precursors and, if necessary, one or more direct dyes, is typically mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) to form the ready-to-use coloring agent immediately before application to the hair and then applied directly to the hair. The inventive agent (M1) and the hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) are usually formulated such that, at a mixing ratio of 1:1, based on parts by weight, the finished application mixture contains an initial concentration of hydrogen peroxide of 0.5–12 wt.%, preferably 2–10 wt.%, and particularly preferably 3–6 wt.% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H₂O₂), in each case based on the weight of the application mixture.However, it is equally possible to coordinate the agent (M1) according to the invention and the hydrogen peroxide-containing composition (M2) in such a way that the concentrations required in the ready-to-use oxidation color-changing agent (application mixture) are achieved by mixing ratios other than 1:1, for example by a weight-related mixing ratio of 1:2 or 1:3 or even 2:3.
[0255] According to the invention, preferred weight-related mixing ratios (M1 ):(M2) are in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, particularly preferably in the range of 1 :1 to 1 :2.
[0256] In the context of the present invention, the term "immediately thereafter" means a period of 1 second to 10 minutes, preferably 10 seconds to 5 minutes, and particularly preferably 15 seconds to 2 minutes. In the ready-to-use mixture of (M1) and (M2) and optionally (M3) (see below), the reaction of the hydrogen peroxide with the contained reaction components begins immediately. This reaction must take place on the keratin fibers, so the reactive, ready-to-use mixture must be applied to the keratin fibers immediately after its preparation.
[0257] According to the invention, the term "room temperature" refers to the temperature in the room where a person typically applies a hair coloring or lightening agent, i.e., typically a bathroom or a hair salon, where the temperature is in the range of 10–29 °C. The application of the coloring or lightening mixture in process step iv) of the color-changing processes according to the invention, or preferably those preferred according to the invention, can also take place at a temperature of at least 30 °C, preferably at 30–60 °C, and particularly preferably at 32–50 °C, if the hair is heated, for example, with a heat cap or a heat lamp.
[0258] The oxidizing agent composition (M2) used in the color-changing kits and color-changing processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention contains, based on its weight, 40 - 96 wt.%, preferably 65 - 90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70 - 80 wt.%, water.
[0259] The oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used in the color-changing kits and color-changing processes according to the invention and preferred according to the invention further contains, based on its weight, 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, particularly preferably 4 to 20 wt.%, very preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and extremely preferably 6 to 12 wt.%, hydrogen peroxide.
[0260] To stabilize the hydrogen peroxide, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C.
[0261] Oxidative color change processes on keratin fibers typically occur in a neutral to alkaline environment; even a slightly acidic pH value yields acceptable color results. Therefore, the pH value of the agent (M1) according to the invention is in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably in the range of 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0262] The ready-to-use color-changing agent obtained by mixing the agent (M1) according to the invention with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) preferably has a pH value in the range of 6.5 - 11.5, more preferably 8.0 - 11.0, particularly preferably 8.5 - 10.8, extraordinarily preferably 9.0 - 10.6, and even more preferably 9.5 - 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0263] If a stronger lightening of the keratin fibers or the coloring of very dark, highly melanin-containing keratin fibers is to be achieved with the oxidative color-changing agents according to the invention, at least one further oxidizing agent is required in the application mixture, which is applied to the keratin fibers, in addition to hydrogen peroxide, to break down the melanin.
[0264] Such additional oxidizing agents are often also referred to as blond boosters. These are oxidizing agents that are solid under normal conditions. They are formulated as an anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) comprising at least one oxidizing agent that is solid under normal conditions. Consequently, a further object of the present invention is a method for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular for the lightening of keratin fibers, comprising the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.%.-% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt% at least one conditioning agent selected from i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II), r, H.
[0265] 1\ R2c (CH2) n — N\
[0266] O R3
[0267] (II)
[0268] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0269] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0270] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0271] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 to 20 wt.%. wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt. % values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one surfactant and / or an oil, and iii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M3) different from (M2), comprising h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and i) and 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt. % water, wherein the wt.-% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iv) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) and (M3), wherein it is preferred that the aforementioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) are composed with respect to the weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) of the three components such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :2, and (M3) is present in an amount of 5 - 25 wt.%, preferably 7 - 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 7.5 - 17 wt.%.-%, based on the weight of the total mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), is contained, immediately afterwards v) applying the mixture obtained in step iv) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 - 60°C, preferably at 32 - 50°C, vi) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vii) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.
[0272] Preferably, the at least one oxidizing agent, solid under normal conditions, is selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, mixtures of these salts, sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate, and mixtures of at least one salt of a peroxosulfuric acid and an oxidizing agent selected from sodium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, sodium perborate, and mixtures thereof.
[0273] Peroxosulfuric acids include peroxodisulfuric acid and peroxomonosulfuric acid (Caro's acid).
[0274] According to the invention, the at least one inorganic salt of peroxosulfuric acid is preferably selected from ammonium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, alkali metal peroxodisulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, and alkali metal hydrogen peroxomonosulfates. Potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxodisulfate, and potassium hydrogen peroxomonosulfate, as well as mixtures thereof, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, in the work carried out on the present invention, it has proven particularly preferred if the anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) according to the invention contains at least two different peroxodisulfates. Preferred peroxodisulfate salts are potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate mixtures, potassium peroxodisulfate-ammonium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures, and potassium peroxodisulfate-sodium peroxodisulfate mixtures.Particularly preferred are mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate; mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate and ammonium peroxodisulfate with an excess of potassium peroxodisulfate, free of sodium peroxodisulfate, are extremely preferred. Particularly preferred mixtures of potassium peroxodisulfate (KPS) and ammonium peroxodisulfate (APS) free of sodium peroxodisulfate according to the invention are those with a weight ratio of KPS / APS in the range of 4:1 to 2:1, preferably 3.5:1 to 2.5:1, and particularly preferably 3.2:1 to 2.8:1.
[0275] Preferably, anhydrous oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used according to the invention contain at least one oxidizing agent selected from inorganic salts of peroxosulfuric acid and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 5 - 85 wt.%, preferably 10 - 70 wt.%, particularly preferably 17 - 55 wt.%, and most preferably 22 - 45 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (M3).
[0276] The oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used according to the invention are anhydrous, as shown in 2024P00110WG 25.11.2025
[0277] 45
[0278] The purpose of the present invention is that the components contain, based on their weight, 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, and particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water. These figures refer to the free water content. The water of crystallization that individual powder components may contain is not taken into account. The water content can be determined, for example, by Karl Fischer titration in accordance with ISO 4317 (version 2011-12).
[0279] Alkalizing agent in a persalt-containing oxidative hair treatment product (M3)
[0280] For the melanin-degrading effect of the hydrogen peroxide and the bleaching effect on the keratinous fiber, it is advantageous if the application mixture of agent (M1), hydrogen peroxide solution (M2) and persalt-containing oxidative hair treatment agent (M3) has a pH value in the range of 6.5 - 11.5, more preferably 8.0 - 11.0, particularly preferably 8.5 - 10.8, extraordinarily preferably 9.0 - 10.6, more extraordinarily preferably 9.5 - 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0281] To adjust the ready-to-use mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3) to an alkaline pH, the oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used according to the invention may, in addition to the at least one persalt that is solid under normal conditions, contain at least one alkalizing agent that is solid under normal conditions in such a total amount that the ready-to-use mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3) has the desired alkaline pH.
[0282] Oxidative hair treatment products (M3) used preferably according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar. Particularly preferred oxidative hair treatment products (M3) used according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent that is solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar in a total amount of 4–70 wt.%, preferably 10–65 wt.%, particularly preferably 15–60 wt.%, and most preferably 20–55 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment product (M3).
[0283] Further oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one inorganic alkalizing agent, solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, including in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 4 to 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15 - 25 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent, at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5.
[0284] In addition to the at least one sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5-3.5, in a total amount of 0.1-50 wt.%, preferably 4-30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15-25 wt.%, each based on the weight of the oxidative hair treatment agent (M3), as an optional alkalizing agent, further inorganic alkalizing agents, particularly preferred according to the invention, which are solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, are selected from alkaline earth metal silicates, alkaline earth metal hydroxide carbonates, alkaline earth metal carbonates, alkaline earth metal metasilicates, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, (earth)alkali metal phosphates and (earth)alkali metal hydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances.According to the invention, particularly preferred inorganic alkalizing agents, solid at 20°C and 1013 mbar, are, in addition to the at least one obligatory sodium silicate or sodium metasilicate, each with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, selected from magnesium hydroxide carbonates and mixtures of these alkalizing agents. According to the invention, preferred magnesium hydroxide carbonates are those with the formula MgCCh₂ ■ Mg(OH)₂ ■ 2 H₂O and those with the formula MgCCh₂ ■ Mg(OH)₂. Magnesium hydroxide carbonate with the formula MgCCh₂ ■ Mg(OH)₂ is particularly preferred according to the invention.
[0285] According to the invention, the oxidative hair treatment agents (M3) used particularly preferably contain, based on their total weight, 0.1 to 50 wt.%, preferably 4 to 30 wt.%, particularly preferably 15 to 25 wt.%, sodium silicates with a molar SiO2 / Na2O ratio of > 2, preferably 2.5 to 3.5, and 2 to 40 wt.%, preferably 5 to 35 wt.%, particularly preferably 10 to 32 wt.% magnesium hydroxide carbonate as inorganic alkalizing agents, solid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar.
[0286] Surprisingly, it was further found that an application mixture with a further optimized skin and conditioning effect is obtained when the agent (M1) according to the invention or preferred according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably of 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0287] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) used according to the invention contains at least one cation surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably of 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0288] Cationic surfactants are surfactants, i.e., surface-active compounds, with one or more positive charges. Cationic surfactants contain exclusively positive charges. These surfactants typically consist of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group. The hydrophobic part usually comprises a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl groups), and the positive charge(s) are located in the hydrophilic head group. Cationic surfactants adsorb onto interfaces and, in aqueous solution above the critical micelle concentration, aggregate to form positively charged micelles.
[0289] According to the invention, cationic surfactants of the type of amidoalkylamines, quaternary ammonium compounds and esterquats are preferred.
[0290] Amidoalkylamines have the general structural formula R 1 -CO-NH-(CH2)n-NR 2 R3 on, where R 1 represents a long-chain, mostly linear alkyl group derived from natural or synthetic fatty acids, preferably a linear C13-C23 alkyl group, which is saturated or unsaturated. The index n is preferably a number from 2 to 5, more preferably 3 or 4. The R groups 2 and R 3 preferably represent a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group independently of one another, R is particularly preferred 2 and R 3Each contains a methyl group. Amidoalkylamines are typically produced by the amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid fractions with short-chain dialkylaminoamines. In acidic media, the amidoalkylamines exist permanently protonated, i.e., cationically. According to the invention, particularly preferred compounds from this group of substances are stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, and palmitamidopropyldimethylamine, as well as mixtures thereof, especially mixtures of stearamidopropyldimethylamine and behenamidopropyldimethylamine.
[0291] Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Further preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are tetraalkylammonium salts, such as, in particular, Quaternium-52, known under the INCI name, a poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl), ((octadecy Initril io)tr i-2,1-ethanediyl)tris(hydroxy)phosphate (1:1) salt, which has the general structural formula (IV), wherein x + y + z = 10.
[0292] The long alkyl groups of the surfactants mentioned above preferably have 10 to 22, and particularly preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms. Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride are particularly preferred, with stearyltrimethylammonium chloride being exceptionally preferred. Other suitable cationic surfactants according to the invention are quaternized protein hydrolysates. Esterquats are substances that contain at least one ester group and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred esterquats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines, and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed under the trademarks Stepantex, Dehyquart, and Armocare.
[0293] With regard to optimal application properties and optimal color results, C10-C22 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides have proven to be particularly suitable. Particularly preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least one cationic surfactant in a total amount of 0.05–3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1–1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3–0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), wherein preferably at least one surfactant selected from C10-C22 alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in particular selected from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, and cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, as well as mixtures of these surfactants, is included. Most preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention contain stearyltrimethylammonium chloride in a total amount of 0.05–3 wt.%.-%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0294] Another packaging unit (kit-of-parts) preferred according to the invention is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably of 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0295] Another packaging unit (kit-of-parts) preferred according to the invention is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably selected from at least one amidoalkylamine, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0296] A preferred method for oxidative hair coloring according to the invention is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably of 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably of 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0297] Another preferred method according to the invention for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers is characterized in that the oxidizing agent preparation (M2) contains at least one cationic surfactant, preferably selected from at least one amidoalkylamine, in a total amount of 0.05 - 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 - 1.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.5 - 0.9 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2).
[0298] Surprisingly, it was further found that an application mixture with a more optimized skin and conditioning effect is obtained when the agent (M1) according to the invention or a preferred agent according to the invention is mixed with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing xanthan gum, preferably 1 to 5 wt.%, particularly preferably 1.5 to 4 wt.%, and most preferably 2 to 3 wt.% xanthan gum, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Xanthan gum enhances the conditioning effect. Furthermore, the consistency of the application mixture achieved with xanthan gum leads to optimal application properties, for example, for brush application.The application mixtures thus obtained, in particular with weight-related mixing ratios (M1):(M2) in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, especially preferably in the range of 1 :1 to 1 :2, preferably have a viscosity in the range of 3500 - 8000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 7000 mPas, particularly preferably 4500 - 6500 mPas, and most preferably 5000 - 6000 mPas, each measured at 20°C with a Haake Model MVII rheometer at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0299] Preferred oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention contain at least one surfactant or emulsifier, but only in minor quantities.
[0300] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) used according to the invention are characterized in that their surfactant and emulsifier content is zero to a maximum of 3.0 wt.%, preferably 0.5 to 2.0 wt.%, and particularly preferably 1.0 to 1.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). Higher surfactant amounts could potentially impair the good conditioning effect of the agents according to the invention in the ready-to-use agent.
[0301] The components g)iv) and g)v) which are mandatory for (M1) are not considered surfactants and emulsifiers within the meaning of the present invention.
[0302] Preferred surfactants and emulsifiers in (M2) are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants and emulsifiers, as well as mixtures thereof.
[0303] Further oxidizing agent preparations (M2) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one zwitterionic and / or at least one amphoteric surfactant and / or at least one anionic surfactant.
[0304] Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate, or sulfate group in their molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants include the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates (e.g., cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate), and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.
[0305] Amphoteric surfactants are defined as surface-active compounds that, in addition to a C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SOaH group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids, and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with approximately 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocosalkylaminopropionate, cocosacylaminoethylaminopropionate, and Ci2-Ci8-acylsarcosine. 2024P00110WÖ 25.1 1.2025
[0306] 50
[0307] Suitable anionic surfactants include all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body, which possess a water-soluble anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in the molecule. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in the form of sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts, as well as mono-, di-, and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkanol group; linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps); polyethoxylated ether carboxylic acids; acyl sarcosides; acyl taurides; acyl isethionates; mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinic acid esters and monoalkyl polyoxyethyl sulfosuccinic acid esters with 1 to 6 ethylene oxide groups; and linear alkanesulfonates.linear alpha-olefin sulfonates, sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with up to 6 double bonds, alpha-sulfofaticial methyl esters of fatty acids, C8-C2o alkyl sulfates and C8-C2o alkyl ether sulfates with up to 15 oxyethyl groups, mixtures of surfactant hydroxysulfonates, sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers, esters of tartaric acid or citric acid with ethoxylated or propoxylated fatty alcohols, optionally polyethoxylated alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates, sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters, as well as monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates. Preferred anionic surfactants are soaps, Cs-C2o alkyl sulfates, C8-C2o alkyl ether sulfates, and C8-C2o ether carboxylic acids with 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 ethylene oxide groups in the molecule. Sodium cetearyl sulfate is particularly preferred.
[0308] Surprisingly, it was found that an application mixture with a viscosity suitable for application and drip-free retention on the hair is obtained by mixing the agent (M1) according to the invention or a preferred agent according to the invention with an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing at least one oil, preferably at least one oil in a total amount of 0.5–40 wt.%, more preferably 1–25 wt.%, particularly preferably 3–20 wt.%, and most preferably 5–17 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2). The resulting consistency of the application mixture leads to optimal application properties, for example, for brush application.The application mixtures thus obtained, in particular at weight-related mixing ratios (M1 ):(M2) in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, especially preferably in the range of 1 :1 to 1 :2, preferably have a viscosity in the range of 3500 - 8000 mPas, preferably 4000 - 7000 mPas, particularly preferably 4500 - 6500 mPas, and most preferably 5000 - 6000 mPas, each measured at 20°C with a rheometer model MVII of the company Haake at a shear rate of 7.2 revolutions per second.
[0309] Further oxidizing agent preparations (M2) preferably used according to the invention contain at least one oil. According to the invention, the at least one oil is preferably selected from mineral oils, branched fatty alcohols with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, dialkyl ethers with 6 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl groups, esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids. 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025
[0310] 51. Fatty alcohols with 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, as well as mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Mineral oil is particularly preferred.
[0311] According to the invention, preferred kits, uses and methods are characterized in that the composition (M2) used for their manufacture contains at least one oil in a total amount of 0.5 - 40 wt.%, preferably 1 - 25 wt.%, particularly preferably 3 - 20 wt.%, and extraordinarily preferably 5 - 17 wt.%.
[0312] Further kits, uses and methods preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the composition (M2) used for their manufacture contains - based on its weight - 0.5- 40 wt.%, preferably 1- 25 wt.%, particularly preferably 3- 20 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably 5- 17 wt.%, mineral oil.
[0313] The subject matter of the present invention is summarized in the following points:
[0314] 1. A composition for the oxidative color modification of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, extremely preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.-% at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). (II)
[0315] R 1 represents a Cn-025 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0316] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0317] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0318] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents,
[0319] - wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably in the range of 9.8 to 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
[0320] 2. Composition according to point 1, characterized in that as surfactant b) at least a non-ionic surfactant selected from N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I) where the acyl group R 5CO- derived from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs-C22 carboxylic acid, which may be hydroxylated, is contained, wherein preferred N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I) are selected from N-capryloyl-N-methylglucamide, N-caproyl-N-methylglucamide, N-lauroyl-N-methylglucamide, N-myristoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-palmitoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-stearoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-arachidoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-behenoyl-N-methylglucamide, and from mixtures of these compounds, in particular from mixtures designated as N-cocoyl-N-methylglucamide. The composition according to point 2, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant, selected from N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I), is contained in a total amount of 1 - 10 wt.%, preferably 3 - 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 5 - 6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.A composition according to any one of points 1-3, characterized in that the surfactant (b) comprises at least one anionic surfactant selected from n-octyl sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl sulfate, n-decyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, n-tetradecyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, stearyl sulfate, and mixtures of these sulfates, in particular mixtures designated as cocosulfate, wherein the at least one C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is in salt form. A composition according to point 4, characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant selected from n-octyl sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl sulfate, n-decyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, n-tetradecyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, stearyl sulfate, and mixtures of these sulfates is present in a total amount of 1-10 wt.%, preferably 4-8 wt.%, particularly preferably 5-7 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.Composition according to any one of points 1 - 5, characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol with 8 to 40 carbon atoms is contained in a total amount - based on the weight of the composition - of 2 - 15 wt.%, preferably of 4 - 13 wt.%, particularly preferably of 5 - 11 wt.%, extraordinarily preferably of 7 - 9 wt.%. A composition according to any one of points 1-6, characterized in that the at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, is selected from senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) that are cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonia-propyl) groups and have chloride as counterions. A composition according to any one of points 1-7, characterized in that the at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent. An agent according to any one of points 1-8, characterized in that the at least one estolid ester with the general formula (V) is selected from compounds with the INCI name Lauryl / Myristyl Polyricinoleate. An agent according to any one of points 1-9, characterized in that the alkalizing agent d) is selected from ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances.A composition according to any of points 1 - 10, characterized in that it contains at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor selected from the group consisting of p-toluenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine, p-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, p-aminophenol, 4,5-diamino-1-(2-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and their salts.A composition according to any one of points 1-11, characterized in that it contains at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor selected from the group consisting of 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol, 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, 2-aminophenol, 3-phenylenediamine, 2-(2,4-diamino-phenoxy)ethanol, 1,3-bis(2,4-diamino-phenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4-(2-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenyl)propane, 2,6-Bis(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-3-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)aminobenzene, 2-.
[0321] Amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole, 7-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxyindoline, 7-hydroxyindoline, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and their physiologically tolerated salts. A composition according to any one of points 1-12, characterized in that the coupler 2-(1,3-benzodioxol-5-ylamino)ethanol and / or its salts are contained in a total amount of 0.001 to 10 wt.%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt.%, more preferably 0.1 to 3.5 wt.%, and most preferably 0.15 to 0.90 wt.%, based on the weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of points 1-13, characterized in that the total amount of the couplers contained from the group consisting of resorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol is below 0.1 wt.%.-%, preferably below 0.05 wt.%, further preferably below 0.01 wt.% and most preferably at 0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent. Agent according to any one of points 1-14, characterized in that the amount of 2-methylresorcinol is below 0.1 wt.%, preferably below 0.05 wt.%, further preferably below 0.01 wt.% and most preferably at 0 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the agent. Use of an agent according to any one of points 1 to 15 for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair.A process for oxidative color change comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of points 1 to 15, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 Weight.-% at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). (II)
[0322] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0323] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0324] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025
[0325] 56
[0326] Formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0327] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 to 20 wt.%. wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1 :(M2)) in the range of 1 : 0.8 to 1 : 2.5, preferably 1 : 1 to 1 : 2, immediately followed by iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 to 60°C, preferably at 32 to 50°C. Hair, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) if necessary, applying a post-treatment product to the hair and, if necessary, rinsing, then drying.
[0328] 18. A process for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular for the lightening of keratin fibers, comprising the following process steps: i) Providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color modification of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of points 1 to 15, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one Coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) further in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.-% at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). (II)
[0329] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0330] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3,
[0331] - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0332] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, and most preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 to 20 wt.%. 5 to 18 wt.% is particularly preferred and 6 to 12 wt.% is extremely preferred.-%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, and iii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M3) different from (M2), comprising h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and i) and 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water, wherein the wt.-% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iv) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) and (M3), wherein it is preferred that the aforementioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) are composed with respect to the weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) of the three components such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :2, and (M3) is present in an amount of 5 - 25 wt.%, preferably 7 - 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 7.5 - 17 wt.%.-%, based on the weight of the total mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), is contained, immediately afterwards v) applying the mixture obtained in step iv) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30-60°C, preferably at 32-50°C, vi) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vii) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying. Packaging unit (kit-of-parts) comprising, separately packaged, the following: i) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for the oxidative colouring of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of points 1 to 15, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and containing, on a weight basis, the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.-%, preferably 50 to 80 wt%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt%, extraordinarily preferably 60 to 70 wt% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt% at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropyl gluconamide and hydroxypropyl ammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). (II)
[0333] - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched,
[0334] - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, - the remainders R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3 each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general
[0335] Formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and
[0336] R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, and most preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 up to 20 wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, and has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, in each case measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant. Kit-of-parts according to clause 19, which additionally comprises a separately packaged oxidizing agent preparation (M3), containing h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and i) 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant. 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025.
[0337] 61
[0338] The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it.
[0339] Examples
[0340] The following dyes or compositions (M1) were prepared (oil-in-water emulsions, all amounts in wt.%), which constitute the alkalizing component (M1) of a two-part oxidative dye:
[0341] Table 1: Dyeing components in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (M1-1), test series no. 1 available from Lubrizol
[0342] The coloring components E-1 to E-4 are agents (M1) according to the invention for the oxidative color change of hair; V-1 is a comparative example. Table 2: Coloring components in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (M1-2), test series no. 2 and 3 available from Lubrizol
[0343] The coloring components E-5 and E-6 and the brightening component E-7 are agents (M1) according to the invention for oxidative color change; V-1 and V-2 are comparative examples.
[0344] The following oxidation composition (M2) was prepared (all amounts in wt.%): 2024P00110WC 25.1 1.2025
[0345] 63
[0346] Table 3: Developer emulsion (M2-1 ) (6 wt% H2O2)
[0347] Examination of wet combability
[0348] 1. Preparation of the test strands
[0349] All test strands (European hair, 2 ± 0.3 grams per strand) were first chemically bleached and, after washing out the bleaching agent, cleaned with a shampoo and dried for 24 hours under defined conditions.
[0350] To determine the wet combability of the untreated strands, they were moistened in a standardized manner before measurement.
[0351] 2. Treatment of the test strands with the agents to be tested (M1)
[0352] To produce ready-to-use oxidative dyes, one of the agents to be tested (M1 ) was mixed with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2-1 ) in a weight ratio of 1 :1.
[0353] The oxidative dyes produced in this way were applied in a defined quantity (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of hair) to strands of hair laid flat (5 strands per oxidative dye) and left on the hair strands for a processing time of 30 minutes at 38 °C. The remaining dyes were then rinsed out of the hair strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes and the hair was patted dry with a towel in a standardized manner.
[0354] With E-1 to E-6, intensely colored strands were obtained.
[0355] Wet combability was determined using a ZWICK Z 1.0 / TN1SSO tensile testing machine. Each strand was measured five times immediately after treatment. After each measurement, the strands were re-moistened in a standardized manner.
[0356] Combing performance was measured on untreated, standardized moistened strands (measured value Fo) and on strands treated according to the invention or by comparison (measured value Fi). From these values, the relative change in wet combability (rel. CFR) was calculated using the following formula: rel. CFR [%] = (Fo - Fi ) / Fo ■ 100 2024P00110WG 25.11.2025
[0357] 64
[0358] Investigation of the reduction of split ends and hair breakage in hair strands by the compositions E-7 and V-2 according to the invention.
[0359] 3. Treatment of the test strands with the agents to be tested (M1)
[0360] Before the measurement began, the test strands were stored for 24 hours at 50% relative humidity. To prepare ready-to-use oxidative lightening agents, E-7 or V-2 was mixed as the agent to be tested (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2-1) in a 1:1 weight ratio.
[0361] The oxidative lightening agents produced in this way were applied in a defined quantity (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of hair) to flattened hair strands (5 strands per oxidative dye) and left on the hair strands for a processing time of 30 minutes at 38 °C. The remaining agents were then rinsed out of the hair strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes and dried in a standardized manner.
[0362] The 10 strands belonging to one product were simultaneously placed in the combing apparatus. Measurements were taken at 50% relative humidity and 25°C. Humidity was adjusted using a humidifier and measured continuously. Each strand was combed 20,000 times. Hairs breaking off during combing were collected for each individual strand in a plastic tray below the combs. Pulled-out hairs were manually removed. The hair breakage resulting from 20,000 combing cycles was weighed separately for each strand on an analytical balance.
[0363] To determine the amount of split ends, 1.5 cm was cut from the bottom of each strand, weighed on an analytical balance, and the weight recorded. The cut portion was then placed individually into the sieve apparatus for each strand. An airflow was blown through the sieve from below, causing the hair to stand upright. Hairs that were not split ends fell through the sieve, while split ends remained on the surface. The sieving process was complete when no more hairs that were not split ends were visually visible on the sieve. A visual inspection was then performed to ensure that only hairs that were not split ends had passed through. The amount of split ends was weighed on the analytical balance and compared to the amount of hair that had been cut.
[0364] The results for the split-end and hair breakage measurements are summarized in Table 4 below:
[0365] Table 4: Results for split end measurements and hair breakage measurements with E-7 and V-2 The conditioning agent Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, a polygalactomannan from Senna spp. cationized with cationic hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, shows a significantly improved reduction in split ends and hair breakage compared to the active ingredient-free dye.
[0366] Table 5: Dyeing components in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (M1-2) (amounts in wt.%)
[0367] To produce a ready-to-use oxidative dye, the inventive agents (M1-E8) to (M1-E11) from Table 5 were mixed in a weight ratio of 1:1 with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2-1) according to Table 3.
[0368] The oxidative dyes produced in this way were applied in defined quantities (4 g of oxidative dye per 1 g of yak hair) to strands of yak hair laid flat and left on the strands for 45 minutes at 32 °C. The remaining dyes were then rinsed out of the strands with lukewarm water for 2 minutes, the strands were first dried with a towel, and then blow-dried.
[0369] The staining patterns were assessed by trained personnel. The results are summarized in Tables 6 and 7 below:
[0370] Table 6: Assessment of the colorations
[0371] The hair strands were dyed the same light brown tone using both ready-to-use dyes (M1-E9) + (M2-1) and (M1-E8) + (M2-1). The color result (light brown) and the achieved color intensities were identical. With the dye preferred according to the invention (M1-E8) + (M2-1), the desired color intensity could be obtained with a 47% lower total amount of oxidation dye precursors, i.e., with almost half the total amount, compared to the dye (M1-E9) + (M2-1), which is also according to the invention.
[0372] The total amount of oxidation dyes used in salt form in the dye according to the invention (M1-E1) could also be reduced by more than 40%. In addition to the gain in sustainability, the reduction in the amount of salt had a positive effect on the emulsion stability.
[0373] Table 7: Assessment of the colorations
[0374] Hair strands were dyed a warm dark blonde tone using both ready-to-use dyes (M1-E10) + (M2-1) and (M1-E11) + (M2-1). The color result (warm dark blonde) and the achieved color intensities were the same. With the dye preferred according to the invention (M1-E11) + (M2-1), the desired color intensity could be obtained with a lower total amount of oxidation dye precursors compared to (M1-E10) + (M2-1). The total amount of oxidation dyes used in salt form could also be reduced by more than 8% in the dye preferred according to the invention (M1-E11). The reduction in the amount of salt had a positive effect on the emulsion stability.
Claims
68 Patent claims 1. A composition for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, extremely preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.-% at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). where - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), 69 where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, - wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably in the range of 9.8 to 10.5, each measured at a temperature of 20 °C.
2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the surfactant is b) at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I) where the acyl group R 5CO- is derived from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ca-C22 carboxylic acid, which may be hydroxylated, wherein preferred N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I) are selected from N-capryloyl-N-methylglucamide, N-caproyl-N-methylglucamide, N-lauroyl-N-methylglucamide, N-myristoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-palmitoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-stearoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-arachidoyl-N-methylglucamide, N-behenoyl-N-methylglucamide, and from mixtures of these compounds, in particular from mixtures designated as N-cocoyl-N-methylglucamide.
3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the at least one non-ionic surfactant, selected from N-acyl-N-methylglucamides of formula (I), is contained in a total amount of 1 - 10 wt.%, preferably 3 - 8 wt.%, particularly preferably 5 - 6 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 1-3, characterized in that the surfactant b) is at least one anionic surfactant selected from n-octyl sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl sulfate, n-decyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, n-tetradecyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, stearyl sulfate and mixtures thereof. 2024P00110WG 25.11.2025 70 of these sulfates, in particular mixtures called cocosulfate, wherein at least one C8-C18 alkyl sulfate is in salt form.
5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant, selected from n-octyl sulfate, 2-ethylhexyl sulfate, n-decyl sulfate, lauryl sulfate, n-tetradecyl sulfate, cetyl sulfate, stearyl sulfate and mixtures of these sulfates, is contained in a total amount of 1-10 wt.%, preferably 4-8 wt.%, particularly preferably 5-7 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition according to the invention.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms is contained in a total amount - based on the weight of the composition - of 2-15 wt.%, preferably of 4-13 wt.%, particularly preferably of 5-11 wt.%, and most preferably of 7-9 wt.%.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1-6, characterized in that the at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, is selected from senna polygalactomannans (cassia polygalactomannans) which are cationized with 2-hydroxy-3-(trimethylammonium)propyl groups and have chloride as counterions.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1-7, characterized in that the at least one polygalactomannan from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, which is substituted with at least one cationic substituent, is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.%, preferably 0.05 to 2.0 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 1.0 wt.%, and most preferably 0.3 to 0.5 wt.%, in each case based on the weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that the at least one estolide ester with the general formula (V) is selected from compounds with the INCI name Lauryl / Myristyl Polyricinoleate.
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1-9, characterized in that the alkalizing agent d) is selected from ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkanolamines, alkali hydroxides, basic amino acids, alkali metal metasilicates, alkali metal disilicates, alkali phosphates and dialkali monohydrogen phosphates, as well as mixtures of these substances.
11. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair. 2024P00110WÖ 25.11.2025 71 12. A process for oxidative color change comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, further in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 kg-% at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). (II) - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each representing a methyl group, at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), 72 where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, particularly preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 to 20 wt.%. wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt. -% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iii) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), preferably in a weight ratio (M1):(M2) in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:2.5, preferably 1:1 to 1:2, immediately followed by iv) applying the mixture obtained in step iii) to the hair and leaving this mixture on for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30–60°C, preferably at 32–50°C. Hair, v) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vi) if necessary, applying a post-treatment product to the hair and, if necessary, rinsing, then drying.
13. A method for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers, in particular for the lightening of keratin fibers, comprising the following process steps: i) providing a cosmetic agent (M1) for the oxidative color change of keratin fibers 73 fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt.-% at least one conditioning agent selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). (II) - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, ii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) containing 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, and most preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 to 20 wt.%. 5 to 18 wt.% is particularly preferred and 6 to 12 wt.% is extremely preferred.-%, and having a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 to 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, and iii) providing an oxidizing agent preparation (M3) different from (M2), comprising h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, as well as mixtures of these salts, and i) and 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water, wherein the wt.-% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant, iv) mixing the cosmetic agent (M1) with the oxidizing agent preparations (M2) and (M3), wherein it is preferred that the aforementioned components (M1), (M2) and (M3) are composed with respect to the weight ratio (M1):(M2):(M3) of the three components to each other such that the weight ratio (M1):(M2) is in the range of 1 :0.8 to 1 :2.5, preferably 1 :1 to 1 :2, and (M3) in an amount of 5 - 25 wt.%, preferably. 7 - 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 7.5 - 17 wt.%, based on the weight of the entire mixture of (M1), (M2) and (M3), is contained, immediately afterwards v) applying the mixture obtained in step iv) to the hair and leaving this mixture on the hair for a time of 1 to 60 minutes, preferably 20 to 45 minutes, at room temperature and / or at 30 - 60°C, preferably at 32 - 50°C, vi) rinsing the hair with water and / or a cleansing composition, and vii) optionally applying a post-treatment agent to the hair and optionally rinsing, followed by drying.
14. Kit-of-parts, which, packaged separately, comprises: i) at least one container (C1) containing an agent for the oxidative color change of keratinous fibers, in particular human hair, according to any one of claims 1 to 10, which is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and which, based on its weight, contains the following components: a) 45 to 85 wt.%, preferably 50 to 80 wt.%, particularly preferably 55 to 75 wt.%, most preferably 60 to 70 wt.% water, b) at least one surfactant, c) at least one linear 1-alkanol having 8 to 40 carbon atoms, d) at least one alkalizing agent, e) zero to less than 0.1 wt.% of peroxide compounds, f) optionally at least one developer-type oxidation dye precursor and at least one coupler-type oxidation dye precursor, g) furthermore in a total amount of 0.01 up to 5.0 kg.-% at least one confectionery active ingredient selected from the group consisting of i) at least one compound selected from hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, or a mixture of hydroxypropylgluconamide and hydroxypropylammonium gluconate, ii) polygalactomannans from Senna spp., in particular from Senna tora or Senna obtusifolia, substituted with at least one cationic substituent, iii) triolein, iv) non-ethoxylated amidoalkylamines of formula (II). where - R 1 represents a Cn-C25 alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched, - the index n is a number from 2 to 5, preferably 3 or 4, particularly preferably 3, 76 - the remains R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, representing a methyl, ethyl or n-propyl group, particularly preferably R 2 and R 3each representing a methyl group, v) at least one estolide ester of a ricinoleic acid oligomer with the general formula (V), where n represents 1 to 15, preferably 4 to 12, particularly preferably 10 to 11, and R is selected from branched or straight-chain C3-20 alkyl, preferably from C6-18 alkyl, particularly preferably C10-16 alkyl, and most preferably C12-14 alkyl, vi) and mixtures of the aforementioned conditioning agents, wherein the agent has a pH value in the range of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably in the range of 9.0 to 11.0, particularly preferably in the range of 9.5 to 10.7, and most preferably 9.8 to 10.5, in each case measured at a temperature of 20 °C, and ii) at least one container (C2) containing an oxidizing agent preparation (M2) comprising 40–96 wt.%, preferably 65–90 wt.%, and most preferably 70–80 wt.%, water, and furthermore hydrogen peroxide in a total amount of 0.5 to 23 wt.%, more preferably 2.5 to 21 wt.%, and most preferably 4 up to 20 wt.%, most preferably 5 to 18 wt.% and most preferably 6 to 12 wt.%.-%, contains and has a pH value in the range of 2.0 to 6.5, preferably 2.5 - 5.5, particularly preferably 2.8 to 4.5, each measured at 20°C, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M2), optionally containing at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.
15. Kit-of-parts according to claim 14, further comprising a separately packaged oxidizing agent preparation (M3) comprising h) at least one oxidizing agent selected from the inorganic salts of a peroxosulfuric acid, and mixtures of these salts, and i) 0 to 12 wt.%, preferably 0.1 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 9 wt.% water, wherein the wt.% values refer to the weight of the oxidizing agent preparation (M3), j) wherein (M3) optionally contains at least one oil and / or at least one surfactant.