Cosmetic

A cosmetic composition with higher aliphatic alcohol, hydrophilic surfactant, and water-absorbing spherical polymer addresses hardness and skin affinity issues, offering improved usability and reduced greasiness in emulsion cosmetics.

WO2026126814A1PCT designated stage Publication Date: 2026-06-18SHISEIDO CO LTD

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
WO · WO
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
SHISEIDO CO LTD
Filing Date
2025-11-28
Publication Date
2026-06-18

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing cosmetics struggle to achieve sufficient hardness without compromising skin affinity and causing precipitates or increased greasiness, particularly in emulsion cosmetics.

Method used

A cosmetic composition comprising a higher aliphatic alcohol, a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, and a spherical polymer capable of absorbing 10 times its own weight in water, with specific particle sizes and concentrations, to enhance hardness while maintaining skin compatibility.

🎯Benefits of technology

The composition provides a cosmetic with improved usability, reduced oiliness, and enhanced hardness, minimizing precipitation risks, suitable for cream or solid forms.

✦ Generated by Eureka AI based on patent content.

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Abstract

The present invention provides a cosmetic that realizes excellent usability and sufficient hardness. This cosmetic contains (A) a higher aliphatic alcohol having at least 12 carbons, (B) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, and (C) a spherical polymer. Preferably the spherical polymer (C), in a dry state, is capable of absorbing water in an amount that is at least 10 times the self-weight of the polymer.
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Description

Cosmetic 【0001】 The present invention relates to a cosmetic having excellent usability and sufficient hardness. 【0002】 In cosmetics directly applied to the skin, the usability is an important factor. Particularly in cream cosmetics and solid cosmetics, it is necessary to have appropriate hardness during storage, etc., while when applied to the skin, those having excellent usability such as good skin affinity are preferred. Also, as cosmetics with excellent usability, there are emulsion cosmetics. As means for imparting sufficient hardness to emulsion cosmetics, addition of thickeners and formation of α-gels at the emulsion interface are often adopted. However, addition of general thickeners has risks of deterioration of skin affinity and generation of precipitates, and formation of α-gels also involves risks such as increase in greasiness and precipitation of crystals. Therefore, it has been difficult to avoid these risks while achieving sufficient hardness. 【0003】 International Application Publication No. 2013 / 076238 【0004】 According to the present invention, a cosmetic having excellent usability and sufficient hardness is provided while avoiding the above-mentioned problems. 【0005】The present invention provides the following: [1] A cosmetic composition comprising (A) a higher aliphatic alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms, (B) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, and (C) a spherical polymer capable of absorbing 10 times or more of its own weight in water in a dry state, wherein the average particle size of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 1 μm or more. [2] The cosmetic composition according to [1], wherein component (A) is a higher alcohol having 18 to 22 carbon atoms. [3] The cosmetic composition according to [1] or [2], wherein component (B) is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene lanolin / lanolin alcohol / beeswax derivative, polyoxyethylene castor oil / hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sterol / hydrogenated sterol, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, and polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate. [4] The cosmetic composition according to [3], wherein component (B) is PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate. [5] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [4], wherein component (C) is a polymer capable of absorbing 100 times its own weight or more in a dry state. [6] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [5], wherein component (C) is a polymer having a cross-linked structure. [7] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [6], comprising component (C) in a content of 0.2 to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. [8] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [7], wherein the average particle size of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 10 to 200 μm. [9] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [8], further comprising (D) a hydrophobic nonionic surfactant.

[10] The cosmetic composition according to any one of [1] to [9], having the form of a solid or cream.

[11] An emulsified cosmetic composition, as described in any of [1] to

[10] .

[12] A cosmetic composition, as described in any of [1] to

[11] , wherein the rheometer hardness measured at 25°C using an 11.3 mmφ needle with a needle insertion speed of 30 mm / min and a needle insertion distance of 10 mm is 20 to 80.

[13] A cosmetic composition comprising (A) a higher aliphatic alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms, (B) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, and (C) a spherical polymer, wherein the average particle size of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 1 μm or more.

[14] The cosmetic composition according to

[13] , wherein component (A) is a higher alcohol having 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

[15] The cosmetic composition according to

[13] or

[14] , wherein component (B) is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene lanolin / lanolin alcohol / beeswax derivative, polyoxyethylene castor oil / hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sterol / hydrogenated sterol, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, and polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate.

[16] The cosmetic composition according to

[15] , wherein component (B) is PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate.

[17] The cosmetic composition according to any one of

[13] to

[16] , wherein component (C) is a polymer having a cross-linked structure.

[18] The cosmetic composition according to any one of

[13] to

[17] , comprising component (C) in a content of 0.2 to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

[19] The cosmetic composition according to any one of

[13] to

[18] , wherein the average particle size of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 10 to 200 μm.

[20] The cosmetic composition according to any one of

[13] to

[19] , further comprising (D) a hydrophobic nonionic surfactant.

[21] The cosmetic composition according to any one of

[13] to

[19] , having the form of a solid or cream.

[22] The cosmetic composition according to any one of

[13] to

[20] , which is an emulsified cosmetic composition.

[23] A cosmetic composition according to any one of

[13] to

[22] , wherein the rheometer hardness measured at 25°C using an 11.3 mmφ needle with a needle insertion speed of 30 mm / min and a needle insertion distance of 10 mm is 20 to 80. 【0006】According to the present invention, a cosmetic product is provided that blends well with the skin during use, has reduced oiliness, and offers a superior user experience. Furthermore, this cosmetic product is less prone to precipitation and can achieve sufficient hardness to be used as a cream or solid cosmetic product. Detailed description of the invention 【0007】 The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises (A) a higher aliphatic alcohol, (B) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, and (C) a polymer. Each of these components, as well as any further components that may be added, are described below. 【0008】 (A) Higher Aliphatic Alcohols The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a specific higher aliphatic alcohol (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (A)). Component (A) must have 12 or more carbon atoms, preferably 18 to 22. The aliphatic hydrocarbon group constituting component (A) may be linear, branched, or cyclic, but it is preferable to have a linear structure. 【0009】 Furthermore, component (A) has at least one hydroxyl group, and may be a polyol having two or more hydroxyl groups, but it is preferable that it is a monool with one hydroxyl group. It may also be a saturated aliphatic alcohol or an unsaturated aliphatic alcohol, or it is preferable that it is a saturated aliphatic alcohol. 【0010】 (A) Examples of higher aliphatic alcohols that are preferably used as components include behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and isostearyl alcohol. 【0011】 (A) The content of component is not particularly limited, but in order to fully exhibit the usability improvement effect or hardness improvement effect according to the present invention, it is preferably 1 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 2 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. 【0012】(B) Hydrophilic Nonionic Surfactant The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (B)). Component (B) is a nonionic surfactant that is hydrophilic. Specifically, the HLB value is preferably 12 or higher, and more preferably 15 to 20. Here, HLB is a value that generally indicates the affinity of a surfactant for water and oil, and is a parameter known as the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, which can be easily determined by known calculation methods such as the Griffin method. 【0013】 Component (B) is preferably selected from the group consisting of, for example, polyoxyethylene alkyl ethers, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylene lanolin / lanolin alcohol / beeswax derivatives, polyoxyethylene castor oil / hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sterols / hydrogenated sterols, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate. Of these, polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate is preferred, and PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate is particularly preferred. 【0014】 (B) The content of component is not particularly limited, but in order to fully exhibit the usability improvement effect or hardness improvement effect according to the present invention, it is preferably 0.5 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition. 【0015】(C) Polymer The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a specific polymer (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (C) component). It is desirable that (C) component is water-absorbing. Specifically, (C) component is a polymer that can absorb water at least 10 times, more preferably 100 times, its own weight in a dry state, i.e., in a powder state. Such polymers are sometimes called absorbent polymers or superabsorbent polymers, and are described in works such as "Absorbent Polymer Technology, Studies in Polymer Science 8" (Lisa Brannon-Peppas, Ronald S. Harland, 1990). Such (C) component has a high ability to absorb and retain water, and after absorbing water, the polymer is insoluble in water and maintains its individual particle state. 【0016】 In the present invention, component (C) is preferably a powder that becomes spherical, especially perfectly spherical, after absorbing water. Here, "spherical" means "perfectly spherical" or "approximately spherical," and specifically refers to a particle with an average aspect ratio of 2 or less. Here, the aspect ratio is the ratio expressed as the major axis / minor axis of a particle when the particle shape is observed with a microscope. The average aspect ratio can be measured using image analysis software. For example, a digital microscope RH-2000 Hi-Lox (product name, manufactured by Kitahama Seisakusho Co., Ltd.) can be used as the microscope, and the observed image can be analyzed using 2D measurement software HRS-2D to measure the average aspect ratio. In the present invention, the aspect ratio is preferably 1.8 or less, more preferably 1.3 or less, and particularly preferably 1.1 or less. In the present invention, being perfectly spherical means having an average aspect ratio of 1.1 or less. 【0017】Furthermore, in the present invention, the average particle diameter of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 1 μm or more, preferably 10 μm or more, more preferably 20 μm or more, and particularly preferably 30 μm or more. There is no particular upper limit to the average particle diameter of component (C), but it is preferably 200 μm or less, more preferably 150 μm or less, and particularly preferably 100 μm or less. Here, the average particle diameter of component (C) is measured in the cosmetic composition, i.e., in a sufficiently swollen state. The average particle diameter can also be measured using a microscope and image analysis software, similar to the aspect ratio. 【0018】 In this invention, the hardness improvement effect is thought to be largely due to component (C). Although the mechanism of hardness improvement is not fully understood, it is presumed that component (C) absorbs water in the cosmetic, compressing the oils and gels in the cosmetic. When component (C) absorbs water in a high proportion and becomes spherical, especially perfectly spherical, the compression effect is enhanced. Therefore, it is considered preferable for component (C) to have a high absorption ratio and to become spherical after absorption. 【0019】 (C) The polymer that can be used as component can be arbitrarily selected as long as it has sufficient absorbency. Examples include the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid, the sodium salt of a copolymer containing monomers such as acrylic acid that has been crosslinked with ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, and starch acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer grafted with sodium polyacrylate. Of these, those having a crosslinked structure are preferred. Specifically, carbomer Na, which is a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate salt, and acrylates crosspolymer-2-Na, which is the sodium salt of a copolymer consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one or more simple esters thereof that has been crosslinked with ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether, are preferred, and carbomer Na is more preferred. 【0020】The content of component (C) is adjusted according to the desired hardness of the cosmetic product, but specifically, based on the total mass of the cosmetic product, the content of component (C) is preferably 0.05 to 1.5% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 1.0% by mass. 【0021】 (D) Hydrophobic Nonionic Surfactant The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains the above components (A) to (C) as essential components, but may also contain a hydrophobic nonionic surfactant (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (D)). The cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant (component (B)) as an essential component as a surfactant, but the usability tends to be improved by further combining it with component (D). 【0022】 In the present invention, the HLB of component (D) is preferably less than 12, more preferably 10 or less, and preferably less than 8. Examples of such component (D) include fatty acid glyceryl esters, ethylene oxide-additive surfactants, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerin fatty acid esters, and more specifically, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl laurate, and polyglyceryl-2 laurate. 【0023】 (E) Oil The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain an oil component (hereinafter sometimes referred to as component (E)). By including component (E), the cosmetic composition can be an oily cosmetic composition or an emulsified cosmetic composition. In this invention, component (A) is excluded from component (E). 【0024】 (E) Component can be arbitrarily selected from those commonly used in cosmetics and the like. Component (E) can be at least one of liquid oils and fats, solid oils and fats, waxes, hydrocarbon oils, synthetic ester oils, etc. 【0025】Examples of liquid oils include avocado oil, camellia oil, turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, elm oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, cinnamon oil, Japanese tuni oil, jojoba oil, wheat germ oil, and triglycerin. 【0026】 Examples of solid fats and oils include cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hydrogenated coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, sheep fat, hydrogenated beef tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, Japanese wax kernel oil, hydrogenated oil, beef tallow, Japanese wax, and hydrogenated castor oil. 【0027】 Examples of waxes include beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, privet wax, whale wax, montan wax, rice bran wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugarcane wax, isopropyl lanolin fatty acid, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, jojoba wax, hard lanolin, shellac wax, POE lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, and POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether. 【0028】 Examples of hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, olefin oligomer, isododecane, isohexadecane, and the like. 【0029】Synthetic ester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, lanolin acetate, isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, cholesteryl 12-hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol fatty acid ester, N-alkyl glycol monoisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin di-2-heptylundecanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate Glycerin tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, glycerin triisopalmitate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, glycerin trimyristate, glyceride tri-2-heptylundecanoate, methyl castor oil fatty acid ester, oleyl oleate, acetoglyceride, 2-heptyl palmitate Examples include undecyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate, N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid-2-octyldodecyl ester, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, ethyl laurate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, 2-hexyldecyl myristate, 2-hexyldecyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, and triethyl citrate. 【0030】 (F) Water The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain water (hereinafter sometimes referred to as (F) component). The water used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, but water used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, etc., can be used, for example, purified water, ion-exchanged water, tap water, etc. 【0031】(G) Other ingredients The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain various other ingredients as appropriate, depending on the intended use, as long as they do not affect the effects of the present invention. Examples of such ingredients include additives that can be commonly incorporated into cosmetics. Specifically, amphoteric surfactants such as imidazoline-based amphoteric surfactants; cationic surfactants such as alkyltrimethylammonium salts; anionic surfactants; powders such as talc; humectants such as polyethylene glycol; water-soluble polymers such as plant-based polymers, starch-based polymers, and vinyl-based polymers; film-forming agents such as anionic film-forming agents, cationic film-forming agents, and nonionic film-forming agents; ultraviolet absorbers such as benzoic acid-based ultraviolet absorbers; metal ion sequestering agents such as 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid; amino acids such as neutral amino acids and basic amino acids and their salts or derivatives; organic amines such as monoethanolamine; polymer emulsions such as acrylic resin emulsions; silicone elastomers such as dimethicone crosspolymers; chelating agents; pH adjusters such as sodium lactate; skin nutrients; vitamins such as vitamin A, vitamin C, and their derivatives; antioxidants such as tocopherols; antioxidant aids such as phosphoric acid; various extracts such as caffeine and Phellodendron amurense; Examples include preservatives such as ethylparaben; anti-inflammatory agents such as glycyrrhizic acid derivatives; whitening agents such as placental extract and magnesium ascorbate phosphate; activators such as royal jelly; blood circulation promoters such as nonylic acid vanenylamide; anti-seborrheic agents such as sulfur; dyes; pigments; and fragrances. 【0032】The cosmetic product form according to the present invention is not particularly limited and may be a solid cosmetic, a cream cosmetic, or a liquid cosmetic. However, since the present invention allows for the imparting of appropriate hardness to the cosmetic, it can be a solid cosmetic or a cream cosmetic. Specifically, it can be molded into a stick shape and applied directly to the skin, or the molded cosmetic can be contained in a compact container and applied to the skin with a puff or the like. Furthermore, it may be an emulsified cosmetic, an oil-based cosmetic, or an aqueous cosmetic, but since the present invention makes it easy to impart appropriate hardness to an emulsified cosmetic, an emulsified cosmetic, particularly an oil-in-water type cosmetic, is preferred. 【0033】 The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can achieve a particularly excellent feel when its hardness is within a specific range. Specifically, it is preferable that the rheometer hardness measured at 25°C using an 11.3 mmφ needle, with a needle insertion speed of 30 mm / min and a needle insertion distance of 10 mm, is between 20 and 80. More specifically, the rheometer hardness γ is calculated from the measured stress measured under the above conditions using the following formula: γ = (G * L) / (l * a) (dyn / cm) 2 In the formula, G: measured stress (gr) × 980 dyn L: sample thickness (mm) l: compression distance (mm) a: needle cross-sectional area (cm²) 2 ) 【0034】 The present invention will be specifically described based on the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the content is expressed as mass % relative to the total mass. 【0035】 [Examples 1-6, Comparative Examples 1-4] Cosmetics for each example and comparative example were prepared using the formulations shown in Table 1. 【0036】 Furthermore, the performance of these cosmetics was evaluated as follows. 【0037】 [Hardness] Measured using a rheometer (CR-100 (product name), manufactured by Sun Science Co., Ltd.). 【0038】[Skin compatibility and oiliness] Three panelists applied each example of the cosmetic to their skin and evaluated it. Through deliberation, the three panelists determined a rating from 2 (good) to -2 (poor), using Comparative Example 1 as the baseline. 【0039】 Table *1: Water absorption ratio 200 times, average particle size in cosmetic approximately 50 μm, spherical *2: Water absorption ratio 20 times, average particle size in cosmetic approximately 25 μm, spherical *3: No water absorption, average particle size in cosmetic approximately 7 μm, spherical *4: No water absorption, not particulate *5: Water absorption ratio 60 times, average particle size in cosmetic approximately 0.2 μm, spherical LTD: Measurement impossible as it is below the detection limit 【0040】 [Example 7, Comparative Examples 5-9] Cosmetics for each example and comparative example were prepared using the formulations shown in Table 1. 【0041】 Furthermore, the performance of these cosmetics was evaluated in the same manner as in Example 1. Comparative Example 5 was used as the baseline. 【0042】

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising (A) a higher aliphatic alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms, (B) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, and (C) a spherical polymer capable of absorbing 10 times its own weight or more in water in a dry state, wherein the average particle size of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 1 μm or more.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein component (A) is a higher alcohol having 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (B) is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyethylene alkyl ether, polyglycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene glycerin fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, polyoxyethylene lanolin / lanolin alcohol / beeswax derivative, polyoxyethylene castor oil / hydrogenated castor oil, polyoxyethylene sterol / hydrogenated sterol, polyethylene glycol fatty acid ester, and polyoxyethylene glyceryl isostearate.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 3, wherein component (B) is PEG-60 glyceryl isostearate.

5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) is a polymer capable of absorbing 100 times its own weight or more in water when dry.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein component (C) is a polymer having a cross-linked structure.

7. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the content of component (C) is 0.2 to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the cosmetic composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the average particle size of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 10 to 200 μm.

9. (D) The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a hydrophobic nonionic surfactant.

10. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, having the form of a solid or cream.

11. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, which is an emulsified cosmetic composition.

12. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the rheometer hardness measured at 25°C using an 11.3 mm diameter needle, with a needle insertion speed of 30 mm / min and a needle insertion distance of 10 mm, is 20 to 80.

13. A cosmetic composition comprising (A) a higher aliphatic alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms, (B) a hydrophilic nonionic surfactant, and (C) a spherical polymer, wherein the average particle size of component (C) in the cosmetic composition is 1 μm or more.