Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant of fatty amine type and a combination of esters in a particular weight ratio
A cosmetic composition with a specific ratio of cationic surfactant, non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester, and fatty acid ester addresses the issues of existing hair care products by improving aesthetics and application, while being sustainable and using plant-derived ingredients.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2026-01-14
- Publication Date
- 2026-07-23
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair care compositions are not entirely satisfactory in terms of visual aesthetics and application uniformity, and they often have a thick, non-melting texture, while there is a growing need for environmentally friendly, sustainable products using renewable and plant-derived ingredients.
A cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant of fatty amine type, liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester, and ester of fatty acid and fatty alcohol, with a specific weight ratio, providing improved cosmetic properties such as smoothness, sheen, suppleness, and disentangling properties.
The composition effectively conditions and cares for keratin fibers by enhancing smoothness, sheen, suppleness, and disentangling, while being environmentally friendly and easily applied, using renewable and plant-derived ingredients.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE: Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic surfactant of fatty amine type and a combination of esters in a particular weight ratio
[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular hair composition, comprising at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amine type, at least one liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester, at least one ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, with a specific weight ratio of the total content of the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) to the total content of the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols.
[0004] The invention also relates to a method for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of said cosmetic composition.
[0005] The invention also relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair.
[0006] Technical field
[0007] Natural hair or hair that has been treated via various chemical treatments may be dull, lacking care, damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent- waving and / or relaxing, and repeated washing.
[0008] The hair thus ends up lacking care as regards natural hair, or damaged by these various factors, and may in the long run become dry, coarse, brittle, dull, split and / or limp.
[0009] To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to hair care products using compositions intended to care for and / or condition the hair appropriately, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, especially in terms of smoothness, sheen, suppleness, good coating and good disentangling properties.
[0010] These haircare compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos, hair conditioners, masks, creams or serums.
[0011] However, these haircare compositions are not always entirely satisfactory in terms of visual esthetics such as the sheen, and a soft and natural feel.In addition, the current compositions generally have a thick, non-melting texture and they are difficult to spread uniformly over the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibers such as the hair, without running.
[0012] Thus, there is a need to provide a melting composition which is easily applied to and spread over keratin fibers and which makes it possible to give them improved cosmetic properties, in particular conditioning properties, such as smoothness, sheen, suppleness, slip, disentangling properties leading to easy combing, and also good coating.
[0013] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.
[0014] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.
[0015] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of starting materials that are renewable and / or that have a good naturality index and / or that are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0016] The applicant has thus discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amine type with at least one liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester and at least one ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol, in a particular weight ratio, made it possible to meet these needs.
[0017] Disclosure of the invention
[0018] A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amine type,
[0019] (b) at least one liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester, and
[0020] (c) at least one ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol,
[0021] wherein the weight ratio of the total content of the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) to the total content of the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols is greater than 1.
[0022] The composition according to the invention makes it possible to confer good cosmetic properties, in particular conditioning properties, more particularly good smoothing, good sheen, good suppleness and good slip on keratin fibers, in particularhuman keratin fibers, such as the hair, and also very good disentangling properties leading to easy combing.
[0023] A subject of the invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.
[0024] Another subject of the invention is the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair.
[0025] Other subjects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
[0026] In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, notably in the expressions “between...” and “ ranging from ... to ... ”.
[0027] The term “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the term “one or more”.
[0028] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression “greater than” and, respectively, the term “less than” refer to an open range which is strictly greater, or, respectively, strictly less, and thus that the limits are not included.
[0029] According to the present patent application, the term “keratin fibers” preferably means human keratin fibers such as head hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferentially head hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, even more preferentially head hair.
[0030] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “the hair” means head hair. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows or eyelashes.
[0031] Cationic surfactant of fatty amine type
[0032] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amine type, which is advantageously chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.
[0033] The term “cationic surfactant” means a surfactant including, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. In the present description, a species is termed as being “cationic” when it bears at least one permanent positive charge or when it canbe ionized to a positively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any anionic charge.
[0034] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, or salts thereof and comprising at least one C6-C30 and preferably C8-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0035] Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone surfactants, that is to say that they do not contain any Si-0 groups.
[0036] Preferably, the fatty amines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0037] Fatty amines that may be mentioned include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention may advantageously be chosen from fatty amidoamines, it being possible for the fatty chain to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0038] The term “amidoamine” means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0039] The term “fatty amidoamine” means an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain.
[0040] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines that are useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.
[0041] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2, in which:
[0042] - R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;
[0043] - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and
[0044] - R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical.
[0045] Mention may in particular be made of the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine,lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof.
[0046] More preferentially, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof, and better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
[0047] Preferably, the fatty amines, in particular the fatty amidoamines, are not in quaternized form when they are introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not rule out the fact that they may quatemize in situ).
[0048] Advantageously, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] Advantageously, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0050] Advantageously, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester
[0051] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester.
[0052] A sorbitan ester is understood to mean an ester obtained by the reaction of a fatty acid with sorbitan.
[0053] A non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is understood to mean a sorbitan ester not comprising an oxyethylene unit in its structure.
[0054] A liquid sorbitan ester is understood to mean a sorbitan ester having a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0055] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. In the present patent application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0056] The liquid sorbitan esters according to the invention are not oxyethylenated. According to the invention, the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters may optionally be oxypropylenated. Preferably, the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters are not oxypropylenated.
[0057] Advantageously, the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters according to the invention are chosen from esters of a C8-C30, preferably C12-C22, more preferentially C14-C20 fatty acid, and of sorbitan. The number of carbon atoms in the ranges C8-C30, C12-C22 and C14-C20 mentioned above denotes the number of carbon atoms in the chain of the fatty acid. Thus, in the expression “esters of a C8-C30 fatty acid” above, the fatty acid chain comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0058] Preferably, the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters according to the invention are chosen from sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan cocoate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquicaprylate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan trioleate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sorbitan isostearate.
[0059] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters are chosen from liquid sorbitan monoesters.Advantageously, the total content of liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) ranges from 0.005% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] Advantageously, the total content of liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan monoester(s) ranges from 0.005% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0061] Esters of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol
[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol.
[0063] Preferably, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols according to the present invention are solid esters.
[0064] A solid ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol is understood to mean an ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol having a melting point strictly above 25 °C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, a "fatty acid" is understood to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, more preferably linear and saturated.
[0066] The fatty acids are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
[0067] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
[0068] Preferably, the fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0069] The fatty alcohols are preferably chosen from saturated and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, monoalcohols comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0070] The fatty alcohols may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristyl alcohol (or 1 -tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1 -hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1 -hexacos anol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); or myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0071] Preferentially, the fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol; better still, the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.
[0072] Advantageously, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from esters of C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acids and of C9-C26 fatty alcohols.
[0073] Preferably, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid comprising from 9 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol comprising from 9 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
[0074] Advantageously, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols according to the invention are monoesters.
[0075] Advantageously, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols according to the present invention are chosen from esters:
[0076] - of fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and
[0077] - of fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0078] As examples of esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetylbehenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
[0079] Preferably, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof.
[0080] More preferentially, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.
[0081] Even more preferentially, the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from compounds with the INCI name: cetyl esters.
[0082] Advantageously, the total content of ester(s) of fatty acid(s) and fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.005% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0083] Advantageously, the total content of solid ester(s) of fatty acid(s) and fatty alcohol(s) ranges from 0.005% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) to the total content of the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols is greater than 1.
[0085] Advantageously, the weight ratio of the total content of the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) to the total content of the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols ranges from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 8, more preferentially from 1.1 to 6, even more preferentially from 1.1 to 5, better still from 1.1 to 4, and even better still from 1.2 to 4.Fatty substances
[0086] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional fatty substance other than the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols as described above, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances other than the compounds described above, solid fatty substances other than the compounds described above and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from solid fatty substances other than the compounds described above.
[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty substance” is understood to mean an organic compound which is insoluble in water at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, more preferentially still of less than 0.1% by weight). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and / or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0088] The additional fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0089] Preferably, the additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances.
[0090] The term “non-silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” refers to a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
[0091] The additional fatty substances that are useful according to the invention may be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and / or solid fatty substances. The term “liquid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point below or equal to 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa) and the term “solid fatty substance” is understood to mean a fatty substance having a melting point strictly above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl05Pa).
[0092] More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) may be chosen from Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, fluorooils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol other than the esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols mentioned above, and mixtures thereof.
[0093] It should be remembered that fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon group comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30, carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl groups. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0094] As regards the Ce to Ci6 liquid hydrocarbons, the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
[0095] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, and of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.
[0096] Mention may be made, as hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, of perhydro squalene .
[0097] The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0098] As regards the fluoro oils, they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro- 1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names Flutec® PCI and Flutec® PC3 by BNFE Fluorochemicals; perfluoro- 1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names PF 5050® and PF 5060® by 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name Foralkyl® by Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives such as 4-trifhioromethylperfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by 3M.The liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Examples that may be mentioned include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol and linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleyl alcohol will be used.
[0099] As regards the liquid esters of fatty acids and / or of fatty alcohols, different from the esters of fatty acids and of fatty alcohols mentioned previously, mention may in particular be made of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or poly alcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
[0100] Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, one at least of the alcohol or the acid is branched.
[0101] Among the monoesters, mention may be made of isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates; isopropyl or ethyl myristate; isobutyl stearate and mixtures thereof.
[0102] Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, isopropyl or ethyl myristate and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0104] Mention may notably be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C<> to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids, other than the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters described previously. It is recalled that the term "sugar" is understood to mean oxygen -bearing hydrocarbon compounds bearing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described subsequently.
[0105] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, notably alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
[0106] The esters of sugars and of fatty acids other than the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters described previously may in particular be chosen from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C<> to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0107] The esters may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0108] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof especially such as the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito- stearate esters.
[0109] More particularly, use is made of mono- and diesters and in particular of mono- or dioleates, mono- or distearates, mono- or dibehenates, mono- or dioleopalmitates, mono- or dilinoleates, mono- or dilinolenates or mono- or dioleostearates of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof.
[0110] Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0111] Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
[0112] According to one embodiment, the additional liquid fatty substances other than the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols as described previously are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, plant oils, liquid fattyalcohols and liquid fatty esters, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from plant oils.
[0113] The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25 °C and at a shear rate of 1 s’1.
[0114] The additional solid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols.
[0115] The term “fatty alcohol” means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
[0116] The additional solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30, carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0117] The additional solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0118] The additional solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1 -octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1 -docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); or myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).
[0119] Preferentially, the additional solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the additional solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0120] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may be up to 200°C,and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization. In general, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a relatively opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but on returning the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax, which is microscopically and macroscopically detectable (opalescence), is obtained.
[0121] In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non- silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
[0122] Mention may particularly be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, particularly of biological origin, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
[0123] Mention may further be made of C20 to Ceo microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.
[0124] Mention may also be made of the MW 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.
[0125] Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils having linear or branched Cs to C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes, mention may notably be made of isomerized jojoba oil such as trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut kernel oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis( 1,1,1 -trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene.
[0126] The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
[0127] A wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P® and Kester Wax K 80 P® by the company Koster Keunen.It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may notably be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders.
[0128] The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite wax or ozokerite; plant waxes, such as cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as the essential wax of blackcurrant blossom sold by Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
[0129] Ceramides or ceramide analogs, such as glycoceramides, that may used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
[0130] The ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: R3CH(OH)CH(CH2OR2)(NHCOR1), in which:
[0131] R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the a position, or a hydroxyl group in the co position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
[0132] R2denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)ngroup, a (galactosyl)mgroup or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
[0133] R3denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group which is saturated or unsaturated in the a position, it being possible for this group to be substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides,R3can also denote an a-hydroxy(Ci5-C26)alkyl group, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with an a-hydroxy C16-C30 acid.
[0134] The ceramides which are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a hydrogen atom and R3denotes a saturated linear C15 group.
[0135] Preferentially, use is made of ceramides for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.
[0136] Use may also be made of the compounds for which R1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3denotes a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)i2-CH3 group.
[0137] Mention may be made, as compounds which are particularly preferred, of 2-N-linoleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1 ,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylaminooctadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N- [2-hydroxypalmitoyl] aminooctadecane- 1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylaminooctadecane- 1, 3, 4-triol and in particular N-stearoylphytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylaminohexadecane- 1 ,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl-N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetylic acid N-(2-hydroxy ethyl) -N- (3 -cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl) amide and bis(N -hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. N- Oleoyldihydro sphingosine will preferably be used.
[0138] The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.
[0139] Butters can also be used.
[0140] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “butter” (also known as “pasty fatty substance”) is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid change in state, comprising, at a temperature of 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have an initial melting point above 25°C and a final melting point below 60°C.Preferably, the particular butter(s) are of plant origin, such as those described in Ullmann’s Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (“Fats and Fatty Oils”, A. Thomas, published online: JUN 15, 2000, DOI: 10.1002 / 14356007.al0_173, point 13.2.2.2. Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).
[0141] Mention may more particularly be made of shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea slenoplera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca or bassia butter (Madhuca longifolia), mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter and sunflower butter.
[0142] Shea butter constitutes an example of a preferred butter.
[0143] In a known manner, shea butter is extracted from the fruit (also called “kernels” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospermum parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45% and 55% fat, which is extracted and generally refined.
[0144] Preferably, the additional fatty substances other than liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from solid fatty substances, more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols.
[0145] Preferably, the composition is free of solid sorbitan esters.
[0146] Preferably, the composition is free of oxyalkylenated sorbitan esters, and in particular the composition is free of oxyethylenated sorbitan esters.
[0147] Advantageously, the total content of the additional fatty substance(s) other than liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters (b) and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols (c), when present, ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0148] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more additional solid fatty substances other than liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan esters and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, in a total content ranging advantageously from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, morepreferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0149] Even better still, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty alcohol(s) in a total content ranging advantageously from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, even more preferentially from 4% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] Silicone
[0151] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one silicone.
[0152] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does comprise at least one silicone.
[0153] The silicones that may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.
[0154] Silicones are notably described in detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press.
[0155] The volatile silicones may be chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure) and more particularly from:
[0156] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms, such as
[0157] - octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
[0158] Mention may be made of the products sold under the name Volatile Silicone 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 2 by Rhodia, Volatile Silicone 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione 70045 V 5 by Rhodia;
[0159] - cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type having the chemical structure:
[0160]
[0161] Mention may be made of Volatile Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide;- mixtures of cyclic silicones with silicon-based organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and of oxy-l,l'-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bisneopentane;
[0162] ii) linear poly dialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity of less than or equal to 5xl0'6m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0163] Other silicones belonging to this category are described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pages 27-32, Todd & Byers Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics; mention may be made of the product sold under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone.
[0164] Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and particularly polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), poly diarylsiloxanes, poly alkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, and also organopoly siloxanes (or organomodified poly siloxanes, or alternatively organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally attached via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amino groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene groups.
[0165] The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, notably polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes .
[0166] Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes including:
[0167] - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups optionally including C6-C24 alkyl groups, such as dimethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Coming under the name DC 1248 or the oils Silwet® L 722, L 7500, L 77 and L 711 from the company Union Carbide; or alternatively (C12)alkylmethicone copolyols, and notably those sold by the company Dow Coming under the name Q2-5200;
[0168] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; mention may be made of the products sold under the name GP4 Silicone Fluid and GP7100 by the company Genesee, or under the names Q2-8220 and DC929 or DC939 by the company Dow Corning;- thiol groups, such as the products sold under the names GP 72 A and GP 71 from Genesee;
[0169] - alkoxylated groups, such as the product sold under the name Silicone Copolymer F-755 by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company Goldschmidt;
[0170] - hydroxylated groups, for instance polyorganosiloxanes bearing a hydroxyalkyl function;
[0171] - acyloxyalkyl groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732;
[0172] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as described, for example, in EP 186507, or of the alkylcarboxylic type, such as the product X-22-3701E from the company Shin-Etsu; or alternatively of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products sold by the company Goldschmidt under the names Abil® S201 and Abil® S255;
[0173] - hydroxyacylamino groups, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent application EP 342834; mention may be made, for example, of the product Q2-8413 from the company Dow Coming.
[0174] The silicones may also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing trimethylsilyl end groups. Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the following commercial products:
[0175] - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;
[0176] - the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
[0177] - the oils of the 200 series from Dow Corning, such as DC200, with a viscosity of 60 000 mm2 / s;
[0178] - the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0179] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes bearing dimethylsilanol end groups, known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from Rhodia.
[0180] In this category of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names Abil Wax® 9800 and 9801 by the company Goldschmidt, which are polydi(Ci-C2o)alkylsiloxanes.Products that may be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:
[0181] - mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane with a hydroxy-terminated chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA), and from a cyclic poly dimethylsiloxane, also known as cyclomethicone (CTFA), such as the product Q2-1401 sold by the company Dow Coming.
[0182] The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are chosen particularly from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from IxlO'5to 5xl0'2m2 / s at 25°C.
[0183] Among these poly alkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made of the products sold under the following names:
[0184] - the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;
[0185] - the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
[0186] - the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
[0187] - the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
[0188] - the silicones of the PN and PH series from Bayer, such as the products PNIOOO and PH1000;
[0189] - certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
[0190] Preferably, the silicone(s) is (are) chosen from aminosilicones.
[0191] An “aminosilicone” denotes any silicone containing at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.
[0192] The weight- average molecular weights of these amino silicones may be measured by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25 °C), as polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are p styragel columns. The eluent is THF and the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 pl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is by refractometry and UV spectrometry.
[0193] Preferably, the aminosilicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from:a) the poly siloxanes corresponding to formula (A):
[0194]
[0195] in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight- average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 approximately;
[0196] b) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B):
[0197] R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a(B) in which:
[0198] - G, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom or a group from among phenyl, OH, Ci-Cs alkyl, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy;
[0199] - a, which may be identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
[0200] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
[0201] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; - R', which may be identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quatemized amino group chosen from the following groups:
[0202] -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A’; -NR"-Q-N(R")2and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3A',
[0203] in which R", which may be identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a linear or branched group of formula CrH2r, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A" represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0204] Preferably, the aminosilicones are chosen from the aminosilicones of formula (B). Preferably, the aminosilicones of formula (B) are chosen from the aminosilicones corresponding to the following formulae (C), (D), (E), (F) and / or (G).Thus, the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B) can be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
[0205] b-1) the “trimethylsilyl amodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula
[0206]
[0207] in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10.
[0208] b-2) the silicones of formula (D) below:
[0209]
[0210] in which:
[0211] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
[0212] - Ri, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 denoting an alkoxy radical.
[0213] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0214] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 and more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
[0215] b-3) the silicones of formula (E) below:
[0216]
[0217] in which:
[0218] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350 and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999, notably from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, notably from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
[0219] - Ri and R2, which are different, represent a hydroxyl or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 denoting an alkoxy radical.
[0220] Preferably, the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0221] The hydroxy / alkoxy mole ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0222] The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200 000, even more particularly from 5000 to 100 000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
[0223] The commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones having a structure different from formula (D) or (E).
[0224] A product containing aminosilicones of structure (D) is sold by the company Wacker under the name Belsil® ADM 652.
[0225] A product containing aminosilicones of structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
[0226] When these aminosilicones are used, a particularly advantageous embodiment consists in using them in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any naturebut are preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The number- average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nm. Preferably, notably as aminosilicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions with a mean particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, use may be made according to the invention of the microemulsions of aminosilicone of formula (E) sold under the names Finish CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company Wacker;
[0227] b-4) the silicones of formula (F) below:
[0228]
[0229] in which:
[0230] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and especially from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and especially from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0231] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
[0232] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, Xiameter MEM 8299 Emulsion from Dow Coming;b-5) the silicones of formula (G) below:
[0233]
[0234] in which:
[0235] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and notably from 49 to 149, and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000 and notably from 1 to 10; - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0236] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1 000000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200000.
[0237] A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Coming;
[0238] c) the aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H):
[0239]
[0240] in which:
[0241] - Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl; - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
[0242] - Q" is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;
[0243] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to8;
[0244] - s represents a mean statistical value ranging from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
[0245] Such aminosilicones are notably described in patent US 4 185087.
[0246] - d) the quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):
[0247]
[0248] in which:
[0249] - R7, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, notably a Ci-Cis alkylene radical or a divalent Ci-Cis, for example Ci-Cs, alkyleneoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
[0250] - Rs, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-C is alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a radical -Re-NHCOR?;
[0251] - X" is an anion such as a halide ion, notably chloride, or an organic acid salt, notably acetate;
[0252] - r represents a mean statistical value ranging from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100.
[0253] These silicones are described, for example, in patent EP-A 0530974;
[0254]
[0255] in which:
[0256] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
[0257] - R5 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
[0258] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
[0259] - x is chosen such that the amine number ranges from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;
[0260] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylene aminosilicones, of (Ab)ntype, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylene block including at least one amine group.
[0261] Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:
[0262] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-]
[0263] or else
[0264] [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2- R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -]
[0265] in which:
[0266] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200 and more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
[0267] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100 and more particularly between 5 and 30;
[0268] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000 and more particularly from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
[0269] - R, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-radical; preferentially, R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical;
[0270] - R', which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent C2-Ci2hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2-radical; preferentially, R' denotes -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0271] The siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 mol% and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 mol% to 85 mol%.
[0272] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% by weight solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2 meq / g.The weight- average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1 000000 and more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
[0273] Mention may notably be made of the silicones sold under the name Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive;
[0274] g) and mixtures thereof.
[0275] The silicone(s) are preferably chosen from aminosilicones, better still the aminosilicones of formulae (A), (D), (E), (F) and (G) above, and mixtures thereof.
[0276] Advantageously, the total content of silicones, when they are present, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1 % to 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0277] Advantageously, the total content of aminosilicones, when they are present, ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1 % to 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0278] Organic solvent
[0279] The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0280] According to the invention, the organic solvent(s) are different from the compounds described above, and in particular from the fatty alcohols described above.
[0281] Organic solvents that may, for example, be mentioned include: a) C2-C6 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; b) polyols that are water-miscible at room temperature (25 °C), notably chosen from polyols notably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol or diglycerol; c) polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and d) aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0282] Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is / are chosen from polyols, preferably from polyols having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and / or glycerol.
[0283] Advantageously, the total content of organic solvent(s) in the composition, when present, ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight,more preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0284] Advantageously, the total content of polyol(s) in the composition, when present, ranges from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 4% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0285] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water.
[0286] Advantageously, the amount of water is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably ranges from 60% to 98% by weight, more preferentially ranges from 65% to 95% by weight, and even more preferentially from 75% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0287] pH
[0288] Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 2.5 and 12, preferably between 3 and 7 and even more preferentially between 3.5 and 6.
[0289] The pH may be adjusted to the desired value with the aid of alkalinizing agents or acidifying agents in common use.
[0290] Examples of acidifying agents include mineral or organic acids, for example hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for example acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
[0291] Alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned include aqueous ammonia and mineral or organic hydroxides.
[0292] Preferably, an acidifying agent is used to adjust the pH, more preferentially lactic acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof.
[0293] Additives
[0294] The composition(s) applied to the keratin fibers may also contain additives commonly used in cosmetics, for example, antifoams, thickeners, moisturizers, clays, mineral fillers, UV screening agents, fragrances, anionic or cationic surfactants other then fatty amines, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants, vitamins, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.A person skilled in the art will take care to select these optional additives and the amounts thereof such that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0295] Method
[0296] A subject of the present invention is also a method for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition according to the invention.
[0297] Said composition can be applied directly to wet or dry hair.
[0298] The application of the composition according to the invention is preferably performed between 25°C and 40°C.
[0299] This step of applying the composition according to the invention may optionally be preceded by at least one step of washing said fibers using a shampoo.
[0300] The application of the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a rinsing step.
[0301] Preferably, a rinsing step is carried out after the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention; more preferentially less than 30 minutes after the application, more preferentially still less than 10 minutes after, better still less than 5 minutes after.
[0302] Furthermore, the application of the composition according to the invention may optionally be followed by a drying step; for example using a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightening iron, a steam iron or a heating hood, the heating means possibly heating to a temperature ranging from 35°C to 230°C, preferably from 50°C to 120°C.
[0303] Use
[0304] Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition as described previously, for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair.
[0305] More particularly, the composition according to the invention is used as a hair conditioner, notably as a hair mask.
[0306] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.Examples
[0307] Example 1
[0308] Compositions A and B according to the invention and comparative composition C as described in table 1 below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as % by weight of active material (% AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0309] [Table 1]
[0310]
[0311] Light creams were obtained, which were white in color and smooth and shiny in appearance, and which can be used as a rinse-out haircare composition (cream rinse, conditioner, mask, etc.).
[0312] Application protocol for the sensory evaluation
[0313] Locks of AS20 sensitized Caucasian hair were precleaned by applying a standard treatment shampoo (L’Oreal Paris - Elseve Dream Long Restoring Shampoo) in a proportion of 0.3 g of shampoo per gram of lock. The locks were massaged until the shampoo was worked into a lather. The locks were then rinsed with water.
[0314] Each composition A and C was applied to one of the washed and still wet locks, in a proportion of 0.45 g of composition per gram of lock, then the locks were left in the open air for 5 minutes. The locks were then rinsed with water for 20 seconds.Sensory evaluation and results obtained:
[0315] On application, the experts noted that the melting character of the composition was more marked for composition A according to the invention than for comparative composition C.
[0316] A sensory evaluation of the conditioning properties of each wet treated lock was carried out blind. For this purpose, the expert compares the lock of hair treated with comparative composition C with the lock of hair treated with composition A according to the invention, under blind conditions.
[0317] The expert then grades the lock of hair treated / washed with comparative composition C, according to the following scores:
[0318] +2: very significantly better than with composition A according to the invention, +1: significantly better than with composition A according to the invention,
[0319] 0: similar to the lock treated with composition A according to the invention,
[0320] -1: significantly worse than with composition A according to the invention,
[0321] -2: very significantly worse than with composition A according to the invention.
[0322] The score of 0 is given to the lock treated with composition A according to the invention.
[0323] Then, after evaluation on wet hair, the locks were dried using a hair dryer before an evaluation on dry hair.
[0324] The same protocols as those for wet hair were used.
[0325] Evaluation of smoothness to the touch:
[0326] The expert takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers over the entire length of the lock as far as the ends. The more uniform and homogeneous the hair from the root to the end, the fewer rough patches it has, the less it catches on the fingers, and therefore the better the smoothness to the touch.
[0327] Evaluation of suppleness:
[0328] The expert takes a lock of hair in both hands and attempts to fold it. The more easily the hair can be folded or bent, the more pliable it is, and therefore the better the suppleness.
[0329] Evaluation of disentangling:The expert takes a lock of hair and evaluates the ease with which a fine comb passes through the hair, while sliding it from the root to the end. The more easily the fine comb passes through, the better the disentangling.
[0330] Evaluation of slip:
[0331] The expert takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers over the entire length of the lock from the root to the end. The more lubricated the fiber, the easier and faster the fingers slide, and therefore the better the slip.
[0332] The results are collated in table 2 below:
[0333] [Table 2]
[0334]
[0335] These results show that the application of the composition according to the invention leads to an improvement in the suppleness, disentangling and smoothness of the hair compared with the application of the comparative composition, both on dry hair and on wet hair.
[0336] In addition, these results show an improvement in the slip on dry hair with the composition according to the invention compared with the results obtained with the comparative composition.
[0337] The hair treated with the composition according to the invention appears better treated, with fewer rough patches and is more repaired than the hair treated with the comparative composition.
[0338] Example 2
[0339] Composition D according to the invention and comparative compositions E and F as described in table 3 below were prepared: the amounts are expressed as % by weight of active material (% AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0340] [Table 3]
[0341]
[0342] Application protocol for the sensory evaluation
[0343] Locks of AS20 sensitized Caucasian hair were precleaned by applying a standard treatment shampoo (L’Oreal Paris - Elseve Dream Long Restoring Shampoo) in a proportion of 0.5 g of shampoo per gram of lock. The locks were massaged until the shampoo was worked into a lather. The locks were then rinsed with water.
[0344] Each of the compositions D to F was applied to one of the washed and still wet locks, respectively, in a proportion of 0.9 g of composition per gram of lock, then the locks were left in the open air for 5 minutes. The locks were then rinsed with water for 20 seconds.
[0345] Sensory evaluation and results obtained:
[0346] A sensory evaluation of the conditioning properties of each wet treated lock was carried out blind by experts. For this purpose, the expert compares, under blind conditions:
[0347] - the lock of hair treated with comparative composition E with the lock of hair treated with composition D according to the invention;
[0348] - the lock of hair treated with comparative composition F with the lock of hair treated with composition D according to the invention.
[0349] The expert then grades the lock of hair treated / washed with comparative compositions, according to the following scores:
[0350] +2: very significantly better than with composition D according to the invention, +1: significantly better than with composition D according to the invention,
[0351] 0: similar to the lock treated with composition D according to the invention,-1: significantly worse than with composition D according to the invention,
[0352] -2: very significantly worse than with composition D according to the invention.
[0353] The score of 0 is given to the lock treated with composition D according to the invention.
[0354] The results are collated in table 4 below:
[0355] [Table 4]
[0356]
[0357] These results show that the application of the composition according to the invention leads to an improvement in the suppleness and smoothness of the hair compared with the application of the comparative composition, on wet hair.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A cosmetic composition comprising:(a) at least one cationic surfactant of fatty amine type,(b) at least one liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester,(c) at least one ester of a fatty acid and a fatty alcohol,wherein the weight ratio of the total content of the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) to the total content of the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols is greater than 1.
2. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the cationic surfactants of fatty amine type are chosen from fatty amidoamines, preferably from amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R’)2, in which:- R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical containing from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29, preferably C7-C23, alkenyl radical;- R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms and better still 3 carbon atoms; and- R’, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and substituted or unsubstituted, monovalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl radical;more preferentially chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; even more preferentially from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
3. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total content of cationic surfactant(s) of fatty amine type ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.3% to 7% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.4% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) are chosen from esters of C8-C30, preferably C12-C22, more preferentially C14-C20 fatty acids, and sorbitan, preferably from sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan cocoate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquicaprylate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan trioleate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from sorbitan isostearate.
5. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) ranges from 0.005% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 3.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from esters of C9-C26 fatty acids and of C9-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably from esters of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid containing from 9 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated, linear or branched monoalcohol containing from 9 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferentially from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
7. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols are chosen from the esters:- of fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and- of fatty alcohols chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol,preferably from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, notably myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate andstearyl stearate and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.
8. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols ranges from 0.005% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.05% to 10% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1% to 5% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total content of the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) to the total content of the ester(s) of fatty acids and fatty alcohols ranges from 1.1 to 10, preferably from 1.1 to 8, more preferentially from 1.1 to 6, even more preferentially from 1.1 to 5, better still from 1.1 to 4.
10. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one fatty substance other than the liquid non-oxyethylenated sorbitan ester(s) (b) and esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols (c), preferably chosen from solid fatty substances, more preferentially from solid fatty alcohols.
11. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is free of solid sorbitan esters.
12. The cosmetic composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one silicone, preferably chosen from aminosilicones.
13. A method for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.
14. The use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 12, for the cosmetic treatment, preferably the care and / or conditioning, of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers, more preferentially the hair.