Cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one aminosulfonic acid, at least one alkali metal hydroxide or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide, and at least one aminosilicone

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof, at least one alkali metal hydroxide, alkaline-earth metal hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide, and at least one aminosilicone The invention also relates to a method for straightening / relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition of the invention. The invention also relates to the use of the composition for straightening / relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: Cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one aminosulfonic acid, at least one alkali metal hydroxide or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide, and at least one aminosilicone

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof, at least one alkali metal hydroxide, alkaline-earth metal hydroxide or ammonium hydroxide, and at least one aminosilicone.

[0004] The invention also relates to a method for straightening / relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition of the invention.

[0005] The invention also relates to the use of the composition for straightening / relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

[0006] In the hair field, consumers wish to have available compositions which make it possible to introduce a temporary change to their head of hair, while targeting good shape retention of the effect produced. In general, it is desired for the change to withstand shampooing for at least two weeks, or even more, depending on the nature of said change.

[0007] Heat treatments are generally used to modify the shape of the head of hair in a long-lasting manner. These treatments allow a visual modification of the appearance of the hairstyle, combining a decrease in the degree of curling, a reduction in overall volume of the head of hair, a reduction in frizz, a gain in manageability, a smoother visual appearance, a substantial gain in sheen, and a resistance to humidity and to heat for maintenance of the hairstyle throughout the day.

[0008] Moreover, this type of treatment has the advantage of facilitating the daily maintenance of the head of hair, with the use of fewer care products, in particular rinse-out care products, such as conditioners or masks, or leave-in care products, such as sera, care creams or balms, or taming mousses. Drying of the hair is facilitated, with a much shortened blow-drying time and a decrease in the daily use of flat irons, in terms both of time and intensity. This thus makes it possible to limit the risks of damaging the hair through combined factors of mechanical and thermal stress.

[0009] Several techniques are associated with these heat treatments. A first technique is based on the use of compositions based on thiol reducing agents. These techniques require strict adherence to the application conditions recommended by the suppliers, in particular in terms of amounts and of leave-in time. In addition, they may becontraindicated on hair which is too sensitized and may not be compatible with the same-day application of other treatments, such as dyeing or bleaching operations. Moreover, they have an unpleasant smell.

[0010] Another technique is based on the use of compositions based on acids, and very particularly on the use of glyoxylic acid. Patent application WO 2011 / 104282 thus proposed a novel method for semi-permanently straightening the hair, which consists in applying an a-keto acid solution to the hair for 15 to 120 minutes, then drying and, finally, straightening the head of hair with an iron at a temperature of about 200°C. The a-keto acid employed is preferably glyoxylic acid.

[0011] However, it has been noted that glyoxylic acid may not be well tolerated, in particular when the scalp is sensitive and / or irritated. Its volatility, accentuated by the use of heat from the iron, can also present a problem. Furthermore, the compositions of the prior art may adversely affect the hair and / or the color thereof. Finally, toxicological risks linked to the use of glyoxylic acid for hair straightening have recently been pointed out by the French health authority (ANSES) and as a precaution its use is not recommended until the effects of the product are better documented.

[0012] Treatments using a composition comprising a base combined with a heat treatment for straightening the hair have also been proposed. Such treatments make it possible to obtain good relaxation of curls but can lead to adverse changes in the hair fiber. Document EP 1837010 describes in particular a straightening / relaxing method using a composition comprising sodium hydroxide and a heat treatment. Document WO 2007 / 144707 describes a straightening / relaxing method using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base, such as monoethanolamine or ethylenediamine, combined with a heat treatment. Document WO 2009 / 117344 also describes a straightening / relaxing method using a composition comprising a non-hydroxylated base and a protein-denaturing agent, combined with a heat treatment.

[0013] In order to limit adverse changes to the hair fibers, it has also been proposed to use compositions comprising weak acids at alkaline pH, combined with a heat treatment. Document WO 2010 / 049434 describes, for example, a straightening / relaxing method in which a composition comprising a dicarboxylic acid, such as maleic acid, and a heat treatment are applied. Such treatments are not always satisfactory in terms of results and / or of persistence.

[0014] There is still a need to develop compositions, in particular for straightening / relaxing keratin fibers, which make it possible to straighten / relax and / orto reduce the curling of the hair in an effective and long-lasting manner while limiting the damage to the hair.

[0015] Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: i) one or more alkanolamines,

[0016] ii) one or more compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof, iii) one or more alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides, and iv) one or more aminosilicones.

[0017] The composition of the invention makes it possible to provide relaxation of the curls, that is to say straightening of the keratin fibers, in an effective and long-lasting manner, the effect being persistent with respect to shampoo washes and for up to several weeks after the treatment.

[0018] The composition of the invention can additionally be applied on all types of hair, even very sensitized hair, while preserving, or even while improving, the cosmetic qualities of the fiber, such as sheen, smooth feel and ease of styling (reduction in volume and frizz), and also its natural appearance with loose and light hairs, and also a natural feel.

[0019] The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to improve the cosmetic feel of the hair, in particular by making it smoother to the touch.

[0020] In addition, the composition of the invention does not emit any unpleasant odor during its use.

[0021] The invention also relates to a method for straightening / relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition of the invention.

[0022] The invention also relates to the use of the composition for straightening / relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

[0023] In the context of the present invention, the term "straightening / relaxing" is understood to mean a method which makes it possible to reduce the degree of curling of the hair; it also generally makes it possible to reduce the volume of the hair. The reduction in the degree of curling can extend as far as the complete straightening of the hair.

[0024] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will become more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which follow.

[0025] In that which follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression one or more .Brief description of the drawings

[0026] The appended drawings are not necessarily to scale; they are above all intended to illustrate the principles of the invention.

[0027] - [Fig. 1] is a photograph of a lock of hair pretreated with composition Al according to the invention and of a lock of hair pretreated with comparative composition A2 (see example 1), the two locks then having been subjected to one shampoo wash; and - [Fig. 2] is a photograph of a lock of hair pretreated with composition Al according to the invention and of a lock of hair pretreated with comparative composition A2 (see example 1), the two locks then having been subjected to 5 shampoo washes.

[0028] Compositions

[0029] Alkanolamines

[0030] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkanolamine.

[0031] Alkanolamine is understood to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and one or more linear or branched Ci-Cs alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.

[0032] Alkanolamines chosen from mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising from 1 to 3 identical or different C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals, are suitable in particular for implementing the invention.

[0033] In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2 -m ethyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminom ethane and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Preferably, the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

[0035] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] Preferably, the alkanolamine(s) chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2 -m ethyl- 1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino- 1,2-propanediol, tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminom ethane and mixtures thereof are present in atotal content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] Preferably, monoethanolamine is present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof

[0039] The composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one compound chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof.

[0040] The derivatives of aminosulfonic acids can be chosen from the betaine forms thereof, the optical isomers thereof, the solvates thereof, such as the hydrates, and organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0041] The aminosulfonic acid can be chosen from the aminosulfonic acids of formula (II) below, and also the betaine forms thereof, the optical isomers thereof, the solvates thereof, such as the hydrates, and the organic or mineral acid or base salts thereof:

[0042]

[0043] in which formula (II):

[0044] - R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched, preferably linear, C1-C5 alkyl group, said alkyl group being optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl, amino, -C(O)-OH, -S(O)2-OH, -C(O)-O'M+or -S(0)2-0'M+, with M+representing a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium counterion,

[0045] - n is 0 or 1.

[0046] In the composition containing them, the amino acid(s) can be in their nonionized form (II) or in their ionized or betaine form (II’):

[0047]

[0048] (II) (IT)

[0049] in which formulae R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl group, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, amino group or carboxylate group, and n is 0 or 1.

[0050] Preferably, the aminosulfonic acids are chosen from those of formula (II), more preferentially taurine.

[0051] In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from taurine, and also the betaine forms thereof, the optical isomers thereof, the solvates thereof, such as the hydrates, and the organic or inorganic acid or base salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0052] Taurine, or 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, is an amino acid of formula NH2-CH2-CH2-SO3H.

[0053] Taurine can be present in the non-ionized form (II) or in the ionized form (II’), as are defined above.

[0054] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from taurine and derivatives thereof are chosen from taurine and salts thereof, in particular sodium taurate, potassium taurate or magnesium taurate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially taurine.

[0055] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Preferably, the compound(s) chosen from taurine and derivatives thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] Preferably, taurine, the betaine forms thereof, the optical isomers thereof, the solvates thereof, such as the hydrates, and the organic or inorganic acid or base salts thereof, and mixtures thereof, are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% byweight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Preferably, potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate and taurine, and preferentially taurine, are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides

[0060] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides.

[0061] An alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide is understood to mean a compound of formula M(OH)Xin which M is a metal chosen from alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals and x is equal to 1 or 2.

[0062] The alkali metal hydroxides can in particular be chosen from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0063] The alkaline-earth metal hydroxides can in particular be chosen from magnesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

[0064] Ammonium hydroxide is the compound of formula NH4OH.

[0065] Preferably, alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide(s) will be used. Preferably, the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide(s) are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and mixtures thereof, preferentially from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, better still potassium hydroxide.

[0066] Preferably, the alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Preferably, the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkali metal hydroxide which can be present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Preferably, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] Preferably, potassium hydroxide is present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof is strictly greater than 1, preferentially greater than or equal to 1.1 and better still greater than or equal to 1.2.

[0072] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3 and better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0073] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and derivatives thereof is strictly greater than 1, preferentially greater than or equal to 1.1 and better still greater than or equal to 1.2.

[0074] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and derivatives thereof is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3 and better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0075] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and mixtures thereof is strictly greater than 1 , preferentially greater than or equal to 1.1 and better still greater than or equal to 1.2.

[0076] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of potassium taurate, sodium taurate, magnesium taurate, taurine and mixtures thereof is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3 and better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0077] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of taurine is strictly greater than 1, preferentially greater than or equal to 1.1 and better still greater than or equal to 1.2.Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of taurine is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3 and better still between 1.3 and 2.

[0078] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is strictly greater than 1, preferentially is between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 4 and 8.

[0079] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxides is strictly greater than 1, preferentially is between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 4 and 8.

[0080] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of monoethanolamine to the total content of sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide is strictly greater than 1, preferentially is between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 4 and 8.

[0081] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof and of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is strictly greater than 1, preferentially is between 1.1 and 3, more preferentially between 1.1 and 2.

[0082] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from taurine and derivatives thereof and of alkali metal hydroxide(s) is strictly greater than 1, preferentially is between 1.1 and 3, more preferentially between 1.1 and 2.

[0083] Aminosilicones

[0084] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more aminosilicones comprising hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0085] The term "aminosilicone" is intended to mean any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

[0086] The aminosilicones according to the invention comprise one or more hydrocarbon end groups comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for said groups optionally to be hydroxylated and / or to comprise one or more heteroatoms, notably O.

[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "end groups" is intended to mean that said groups are located in the alpha and omega positions of the main silicone chain, that is to say at each end of the main silicone chain.The hydrocarbon group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain R comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0088] The hydrocarbon group can also comprise an oxygen atom, and thus can be an alkoxylated chain (-O-R) with R = linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0089] Said alkyl chains R can optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups (OH).

[0090] The aminosilicones with hydrocarbon end groups that can be used in the context of the invention may notably be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0091] (i) the silicones of formula (I):

[0092]

[0093] wherein:

[0094] - x is a number between 1 and 5000, preferably between 10 and 2000, better still between 100 and 1000;

[0095] - y is a number between 1 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 500, better still between 1 and 100;

[0096] - R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and / or alkoxy radicals OR, where R = linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for said alkyl radicals to optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups OH;

[0097] - A denotes a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, notably from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.Preferably, A is branched and comprises 3 to 4 carbon atoms; better still, A is one of the following divalent radicals: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0098] Preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl radicals; preferentially, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) radicals.

[0099] Preferably, R1 and R2 are identical.

[0100] Most preferentially, R1 = R2 = cetyl, stearyl or cetearyl (mixture of Ci6 and Ci8).

[0101] Among the silicones of formula (I) which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may particularly be made of those in which: - x is a number between 100 and 1000;

[0102] - y is a number between 1 and 100;

[0103] - R1 and R2, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 24 carbon atoms;

[0104] - A denotes a branched divalent alkylene radical having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0105] Even better still, mention may also be made of the silicones of formula (I) in which:

[0106] - x is a number between 100 and 1000;

[0107] - y is a number between 1 and 100;

[0108] - R1 and R2, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0109] - A denotes -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0110] A silicone of formula (I) that is most particularly preferred is Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may notably be made of the silicone sold under the name Sil soft AX by Momentive;(ii) the silicones of formula (II):

[0111]

[0112] wherein:

[0113] - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better still between 50 and 80;

[0114] - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better still between 1 and 5;

[0115] - R'", which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; it being possible for said radicals to optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups OH; - R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

[0116] - R" is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.

[0117] Preferably, the R'", which may be identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 18 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of dodecyl, Cl 3, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl and octadecyl radicals; preferentially, the R'", which may be identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, notably C13, C14 or C15 radicals, alone or as a mixture, and better still represent a mixture of Cl 3, C 14 and Cl 5.

[0118] Preferably, the R'" radicals are identical.

[0119] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; notably a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.Preferably, R" is a linear divalent alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, notably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0120] Among the silicones of formula (II) which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of those in which:

[0121] - n is a number between 50 and 80;

[0122] - m is a number between 1 and 5;

[0123] - R'", which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

[0124] - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably a -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical, and

[0125] - R" is a linear divalent alkylene radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a -(CH2)2-radical.

[0126] A silicone of formula (II) that is most particularly preferred is Bis(C13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone (INCI name). Mention may notably be made of the silicone sold under the name Dowsil 8500 Conditioning Agent by Dow.

[0127] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones of formula (I) as defined above, more preferentially one or more silicones of formula (I) in which:

[0128] - x is a number between 100 and 1000;

[0129] - y is a number between 1 and 100;

[0130] - R1 and R2, which are identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 16 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0131] - A denotes -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0132] More preferentially still, the composition according to the invention comprises Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone (INCI name).

[0133] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said aminosilicone(s) with hydrocarbon end groups in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to the invention preferably comprises Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone (INCI name) in a total amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Preferably, the composition of the invention is an aqueous composition. It can in particular comprise water or water and one or more solvents.

[0136] Preferably, the water content generally ranges from 10% to 99% by weight, preferably from 30% to 95% by weight, preferentially from 40% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0137] Organic solvents are preferred as solvents. Mention may in particular be made of water-soluble solvents, such as C1-C7 alcohols; mention may in particular be made of C1-C7 aliphatic monoalcohols, such as, for example, ethanol, or C6-C7 aromatic monoalcohols, or else C2-C6 polyols, such as, for example, glycerol or pentylene glycol, which can be employed alone or as a mixture with water. Preferentially, the compositions according to the invention comprise a mixture of C1-C7 aliphatic monoalcohols and C2-C6 polyols, better still a mixture of ethanol and pentylene glycol.

[0138] When the composition is aqueous, the pH preferably varies from 7 to 13, preferentially from 8 to 12.5, better still from 9 to 12 and even better still from 10 to 11.5.

[0139] Organic acid metal salt

[0140] The composition according to the present invention may include at least one metal salt of an organic acid other than the amino acids described above.

[0141] If a plurality of organic acid metal salts are used, it is possible for the types of organic acid to be different and / or for the types of metal to be different.

[0142] The metal of the organic acid metal salt may be chosen from alkali metals, in particular sodium and potassium, alkaline-earth metals, in particular magnesium and calcium, transition metals and the group 12 elements of the periodic table such as zinc.

[0143] The organic acid of the organic acid metal salt may be chosen from a-hydroxy acids.The a-hydroxy acids may be represented by the formula (I) below:

[0144] 9HR

[0145] RJfc JS

[0146] 1 —

[0147] R2 0 (I)

[0148] in which:

[0149] - R1 = H, -OH, -NH2, -CH2COOH or a linear or branched Cl -4 alkyl,

[0150] - R2 = H, -COOH, -CHOH-COOH, -CF3, -CH=CH2, -NHCONH2, a linear, branched or cyclic Cl -8 alkyl optionally substituted by a radical chosen from -OH, Cl, -NH2, -COOH, CF3 and -SCH3; a phenyl or a benzyl optionally substituted by an -OH or -OCH3 radical; or alternatively the radical

[0151]

[0152] or else: R1 and R2 may also together form an oxo (=0) radical or a cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, hydroxycyclobutyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl ring with the carbon atom bearing them, or alternatively the radical

[0153]

[0154] and when R1 = H, R2 may also represent a -(CHOH)2CH2OH or -(CHOH)3CH2OH radical, R = -OH or -NR3R4 with R3, R4 = H or a linear or branched Cl -4 alkyl optionally substituted by one or two OH radicals, and also stereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.

[0155] The a-hydroxy acids can be selected from the following compounds:

[0156] glycolic acid, oxalic acid, lactic acid, 1 -hydroxy- 1 -cyclopropanecarboxylic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-butenoic acid, 2-hydroxyisobutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-n-butyric acid, isoserine, glyceric acid, 2-hydroxy-3 -methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvaleric acid, 4-amino-2-hydroxybutyric acid, 1-hydroxycyclohexanecarboxylic acid, dihydroxyfumaric acid, citramalic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxy-4-(methylthio)butyric acid, mandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-3-methylvaleric acid, glyoxylurea, P-imidazolelactic acid, 2-trifluoromethyl-2-hydroxypropionic acid, hexahydromandelic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, arabic acid,3 -phenyllactic acid, hydroxyphenylglycine, 3 -hydroxymandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, L-arginic acid, 3 -methoxymandelic acid, 4-methoxymandelic acid, 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)lactic acid, tartronic acid, P-chlorolactic acid, 1 -cyclopentanol- 1 -carboxylic acid, 1,2-dihydroxycyclobutanecarboxylic acid, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxybutyric acid, a-hydroxyisocaproic acid, a-hydroxycaproic acid, 2-hydroxy-3, 3 -dimethylbutyric acid, malic acid, hydroxytartronic acid, gluconic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide, N-ethyllactamide, N,N-dimethyllactamide, N-2-hydroxyethyllactamide, and stereoisomers, organic or mineral salts and solvates thereof.

[0157] Preferably, the a-hydroxy acid is chosen from the group consisting of glycolic acid, oxalic acid, L-lactic acid, DL-lactic acid, D-lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, DL-glyceric acid, arabic acid, gluconic acid, hydroxytartronic acid, lactamide, N-methyllactamide, N-ethyllactamide and N-2-hydroxy ethyllactamide.

[0158] Preferably, the a-hydroxy acid is chosen from compounds from the following group: gluconic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid.

[0159] Even more preferentially, the organic acid metal salt is magnesium gluconate, calcium gluconate or zinc gluconate.

[0160] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic acid metal salt.

[0161] When present, the amount of organic acid metal salt(s) in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0162] When present, the amount of the metal salt(s) of an a-hydroxy acid, preferentially chosen from gluconic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid, in the composition according to the present invention ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] When present, the amount of organic acid metal salt(s) chosen from magnesium gluconate, calcium gluconate or zinc gluconate ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.When it is present, the amount of magnesium gluconate ranges from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] Thickeners

[0165] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more thickeners.

[0166] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “thickener” means an agent which, by virtue of its presence in the composition, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of said composition by at least 10 cPs and preferably by at least 200 cPs, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s'1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0167] The thickener(s) may be chosen from fatty acid amides obtained from C10-C30 carboxylic acid (monoisopropanolamide, di ethanol ami de or monoethanolamide of coconut acids, monoethanolamide of oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid), polymeric thickeners and in particular polysaccharides, notably cellulosic polymers as described below, guar gums, gum arabic, gums of microbial origin (scleroglucan gum), crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] According to one variant, the thickening polymer is a polysaccharide of natural or synthetic origin.

[0169] The polysaccharide polymers of use in the invention are cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably nonionic polymers.

[0170] The term "polysaccharide polymers" is understood to mean polymers containing sugar units.

[0171] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" means a unit derived from a carbohydrate of formula Cn(H2O)n-i or (CH2O)n, which may be optionally modified by substitution and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.

[0172] The sugar units of the polymers that are of use in the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0173] Mention may in particular be made, as polysaccharide polymers, of those resulting from native gums, such as:

[0174] a) tree or shrub exudates, including:

[0175] - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);- ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

[0176] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0177] - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0178] b) gums derived from algae, including:

[0179] - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

[0180] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);

[0181] - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0182] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:

[0183] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0184] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0185] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0186] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0187] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0188] d) microbial gums, including:

[0189] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

[0190] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0191] e) plant extracts, including:

[0192] - cellulose (glucose polymer);

[0193] - starch (glucose polymer) and

[0194] - inulin.

[0195] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. A physical treatment that may notably be mentioned is the temperature.

[0196] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation or oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0197] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP105 and Jaguar HP 120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.

[0198] The polysaccharide polymers can be cellulose-based polymers.

[0199] Thus, the cellulose-based polymers may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including those in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

[0200] Among these cellulose-based polymers, a distinction is made between cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

[0201] Among the cellulose esters are inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates or phosphates), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetate butyrates, acetate propionates or acetate trimellitates), and mixed organic / inorganic cellulose esters, such as cellulose acetate butyrate sulfates and cellulose acetate propionate sulfates. Mention may be made, among cellulose ether esters, of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

[0202] Among the nonionic cellulose ethers without a C10-C30 fatty chain, i.e. which are "non-associative”, mention may be made of (Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aquaion) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aquaion); mixed (poly)hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl-(Cl-C4)alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.

[0203] The polysaccharide(s) according to the invention can be chosen from microbial gums.

[0204] The microbial gums can be chosen from scleroglucan gums, gellan gums, pullulan gums, curdlan gums, xanthan gums, grifolan gums, lentinan gums, schizophyllan gums, spirulinan gums and krestin gums.

[0205] Mention may in particular be made of the scleroglucan gums produced by Sclerotium rolfsii. the gellan gums produced by Pseudomonas elodea or Sphingomonas, the pullulan gums produced by Aureobasidium pullulans. the curdlan gums produced by Alcaligenes of Faecalis myxogenes type, the xanthan gums produced by numerous organisms, including Leuconostoc mesenteroides and Leuconostoc dexlranicum. the grifolan gums produced by Grifola frondosa. thelentinan gums produced by Lentinus edodes, the schizophyllan gums produced by Schizophyllum commune, the spirulinan gums produced by Spirulina subsalsa and the krestin gums produced by Coriolus versicolor.

[0206] Preferably, the thickener(s) are chosen from polysaccharides, preferentially from guar gums, better still from nonionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0207] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickeners.

[0208] When present, the thickener(s) is (are) generally present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0209] When present, the polysaccharide(s) is (are) generally present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0210] When present, the nonionic guar gum(s) optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups is (are) generally present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0211] Surfactants

[0212] The composition according to the invention may also further comprise one or more surfactants, preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0213] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferentially chosen from nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

[0214] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more nonionic surfactants.

[0215] The nonionic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in the “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.

[0216] As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:

[0217] - oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;

[0218] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols, preferably including one or two fatty chains;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;

[0219] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 fatty acids and of polyethylene glycols;

[0220] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C30 fatty acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated;

[0221] - esters of a fatty acid, notably a C8-C24, and preferably a C16-C22 fatty acid and of (poly)oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, glycerol ethers;

[0222] - fatty acid esters of sucrose;

[0223] - alkyl polyglycosides;

[0224] - saturated or unsaturated, oxyethylenated plant oils;

[0225] - condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide;

[0226] - derivatives of N-(C8-C3o)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C3o)acylmethylglucamine; - amine oxides.

[0227] The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

[0228] The number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges notably from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.

[0229] The nonionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:

[0230] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched oxyethylenated Cs to C40, in particular C10-C32, or even C12-C28 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; they preferably comprise one or two Cs to C40, in particular C10-C32, or even C12-C28 fatty chains; preferentially, they comprise only one Cs to C40, in particular C10-C32, or even C12-C28 fatty chain;

[0231] - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils comprising from 1 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide;

[0232] - (C8-C3o)alkyl (poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably with 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;

[0233] - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40, in particular C10-C32, or even C12-C28 alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;

[0234] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Cs to C30 acids and polyethylene glycols;

[0235] - esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated.

[0236] Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated, Cs to C40 alcohols, preferentially C12-C28 fatty alcohols comprising from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide, better still oxyethylenated derivatives of stearyl alcohol, even better still steareth-2, steareth-20, and mixtures thereof.

[0237] When present, the total content of surfactant(s), preferably nonionic surfactant(s), can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0238] When present, the total content of oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated, Cs to C40 alcohols may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0239] When present, the total content of oxyethylenated derivatives of stearyl alcohol, even better still of steareth-2, steareth-20, and mixtures thereof, may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0240] Fatty substances

[0241] The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances other than the aminosilicones defined above.

[0242] The fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] By way of example, the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can be chosen from liquid Ce to Ci6 hydrocarbons; the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and preferably saturated. Mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0244] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms may also be chosen from linear or branched liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbonatoms, which are of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffins or liquid petroleum jelly (or mineral oil), poly decenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0245] The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms can also be chosen from mixtures of alkanes having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms, more particularly from 15 to 28 carbon atoms; mention may be made of mixtures having, for example, the following INCI names: Cl 5- 19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, such as, for example, the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC and Emogreen LI 5 sold by SEPPIC, more particularly Emogreen LI 5 sold by SEPPIC.

[0246] The Cs-Cso fatty alcohols are preferably chosen from C8-C24 fatty alcohols, preferentially C12-C22 fatty alcohols.

[0247] The fatty alcohols can be chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol.

[0248] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than aminosilicones, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from the mixture of hydrocarbons with the INCI name C15-19 Alkane, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0249] When present, the total content of fatty substance(s) other than aminosilicones can range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight, better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0250] When present, the total content of liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight, better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0251] When present, the total content of the mixture of hydrocarbons with the INCI name Cl 5- 19 Alkane, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight, better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.The composition according to the invention may be in any presentation form conventionally used, and in particular in the form of an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic, or oily, solution or suspension; a solution or a dispersion of lotion or serum type; an emulsion, in particular of liquid or semi-liquid consistency, of the O / W, W / O or multiple type; a suspension or emulsion of soft consistency of cream (O / W) or (W / O) type; an aqueous or anhydrous gel, a cream or any other cosmetic form.

[0252] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

[0253] (i) at least one alkanolamine, preferably chosen from the group formed by monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially monoethanolamine, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0254] (ii) at least one compound chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof, preferably taurine and derivatives thereof, more preferentially taurine, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

[0255] (iii) at least one alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide, preferably chosen from the group formed by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, more preferentially potassium hydroxide, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0256] (iv) at least one aminosilicone, preferably a silicone of formula (I) as defined above, more preferentially Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone, preferably in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0257] In another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may further comprise:

[0258] (v) at least one metal salt of an organic acid other than the amino acids, preferably an alkali metal salt, alkaline-earth metal salt, transition metal salt or salt of an elementfrom group 12 of the periodic table of an a-hydroxy acid chosen from gluconic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid, more preferentially magnesium gluconate, preferably in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0259] (vi) at least one thickener, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, preferentially from guar gums, better still from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0260] (vii) at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic surfactant, preferentially chosen from oxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated, Cs to C40 alcohols, better still an oxyethylenated derivative of stearyl alcohol, even better still steareth-2, steareth-20, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / or

[0261] (viii) at least one fatty substance other than the aminosilicones, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, preferentially chosen from the mixture of hydrocarbons with the INCI name Cl 5-19 Alkane, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight and better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0262] Method

[0263] The present invention also relates to a method for straightening and / or relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using the composition as described above.

[0264] More particularly, the method for straightening and / or relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair, comprises:

[0265] a) a step of applying a composition as described above to said keratin fibers, b) at least one step of rinsing said fibers,

[0266] c) optionally a step of drying said fibers, and

[0267] d) a step of straightening / relaxing the keratin fibers during which at least one heat treatment is applied to said fibers.Preferably, the straightening / relaxing step is carried out at a temperature above 50°C, preferably between 80°C and 250°C.

[0268] Step a) can optionally be preceded by a step of washing with a shampoo and / or by a step of rinsing, preferably with water.

[0269] The composition according to the invention can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet fibers, it having been possible for said fibers to be shampooed and / or rinsed beforehand, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.

[0270] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to dry or wet hair, more preferentially wet hair, it having been possible for said hair to be shampooed and / or rinsed beforehand, in particular with water, before application of said composition according to the invention.

[0271] The application of the composition in step a) can be carried out by any means, such as by means of a brush or of a comb or alternatively with the fingers.

[0272] Preferably, the leave-on time of the composition on the keratin fibers in step a) ranges from 10 to 90 minutes, preferentially from 10 to 60 minutes, more preferentially from 15 to 45 minutes.

[0273] Within the meaning of the present invention, the leave-on time is the contact time of the composition on the keratin fibers.

[0274] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is left on the keratin fibers at room temperature.

[0275] For the purposes of the present invention, “room temperature” means a temperature varying from 20°C to 37°C.

[0276] Preferably, the rinsing step b) is a rinsing with water.

[0277] The rinsing step b) can be carried out one or more times.

[0278] Preferably, the method according to the invention comprises a step c) of drying the keratin fibers carried out after the rinsing step b) and before the straightening / relaxing step d).

[0279] The drying step c) can be carried out by drying in the open air or using a conventional drying means, such as a hairdryer or a hood.

[0280] Preferably, the drying step c) is carried out at a temperature below 100°C, preferentially at a temperature ranging from 40°C to 95°C.

[0281] The straightening / relaxing step d) comprises at least one heat treatment applied to said keratin fibers, that is to say that heat is applied to said keratin fibers during the implementation of the straightening / relaxing step at a temperaturepreferably above or equal to 110°C, preferentially at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferentially ranging from 110°C to 250°C, simultaneously with or sequentially to a mechanical action.

[0282] In other words, such a device can be a heating device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibers in order to produce the straightening / relaxing, it being possible for this mechanical action to be carried out simultaneously with or sequentially to the application of heat.

[0283] This heat treatment can be carried out by a device imposing a mechanical action on the keratin fibers in order to produce the straightening / relaxing. By way of example, mention may be made of: blow drying using a brush and a hairdryer; hair straighteners; hair straighteners capable of generating steam at the time of the treatment, such as the Steampod© straightening device which makes it possible to apply steam to the fibers and then to straighten them; or heated polyester films.

[0284] Preferably, the straightening / relaxing step d) is carried out with at least a hair straightener or a hair straightener capable of generating steam on the keratin fibers, at a temperature above or equal to 110°C.

[0285] The heat treatment of the fibers can also be carried out using a hairdryer or a heating hood, for example of blowing Climazon® type, or an infrared heating hood, the flattening of the fibers in order to obtain the straightening then being carried out manually, for example with a comb or a brush.

[0286] Preferably, the heat treatment of step d) is carried out at a temperature above or equal to 110°C, preferentially at a temperature ranging from 110°C to 280°C, more preferentially ranging from 110°C to 250°C.

[0287] The application of heat can vary, for example, from 5 to 30 minutes, preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.

[0288] The implementation of the method of the invention can be followed by a step of shaping the keratin fibers, for example a blow drying, that is to say that step d) can be followed by a step of shaping the keratin fibers, for example a blow drying.

[0289] When the straightening / relaxing step is carried out using a hair straightener, it may be necessary to make several passes of the hair straightener, generally between 1 and 10 passes, preferably between 3 and 5 passes, each pass being carried out for between 5 and 40 seconds. According to a particular embodiment with the hair straightener, the total duration of the treatment of the locks of hair is at most 1 minute.The method according to the invention can be carried out on sensitized or nonsensitized keratin fibers.

[0290] Preferably, the method for straightening and / or relaxing keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, successively comprises:

[0291] i) a step of applying to wet keratin fibers at least one composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one compound chosen from taurine and derivatives thereof, at least one alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal hydroxide and at least one aminosilicone; preferably, the leave-on time of the composition varies from 5 to 90 minutes,

[0292] ii) at least one step of rinsing the keratin fibers,

[0293] iii) optionally a step of drying the keratin fibers,

[0294] iv) a step of straightening / relaxing the keratin fibers, during which at least one heat treatment is applied to said fibers.

[0295] Preferably, in accordance with this preferred embodiment, the heat treatment varies from 110°C to 280°C, more preferentially ranging from 110°C to 250°C.

[0296] Preferably, in accordance with this preferred embodiment, the alkanolamine is chosen from mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, in particular monoethanolamine.

[0297] The invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above, for straightening and / or relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

[0298] The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

[0299] Example 1

[0300] a) Composition

[0301] Composition Al according to the invention and comparative composition A2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts are expressed as g of active material (% AM), unless otherwise mentioned.

[0302] [Table 1]

[0303]

[0304]

[0305] The performance of compositions Al and A2 was then evaluated according to the protocol detailed below. In particular, when a lock of hair is treated with composition Al according to the application protocol described below, long-lasting smoothness is obtained, without odor during the application of composition Al. After 5 shampoo washes, the hair is still smooth, well-behaved, has separation of the individual strands and is easy to style.

[0306] b) Protocol

[0307] Locks of Curl Type V curly hair (2.7 g) are prewashed with a shampoo.

[0308] Composition Al or A2 is then applied to wet hair in a proportion of 1 g of composition per gram of lock.

[0309] A leave-on time of the compositions on the locks of 30 minutes in the open air and at room temperature is observed.

[0310] The locks are rinsed with water at the rate of 20 passes between fingers under water. The locks are dried with a hairdryer and then straightened using a hair straightener at a temperature of 230°C (3 passes).An evaluation of the reduction in curls is carried out after 1 shampoo wash and after 5 shampoo washes. The locks thus washed are suspended for 24 hours and are left to dry completely in the open air before the evaluation.

[0311] c) Results

[0312] Composition Al according to the invention comprising an aminosilicone makes it possible to obtain better relaxation of the curls compared with comparative composition A2 after 1 shampoo wash (figure 1 in the appendix). The lock treated with composition A2 has more pronounced waves and occupies a larger volume compared with the lock treated with composition Al for which the curl reduction is greater and the volume occupied is smaller.

[0313] In addition, the relaxation of the curls obtained with composition Al according to the invention is longer lasting and more resistant to shampoo washes than that obtained with composition A2 (figure 2 in the appendix corresponding to a photograph of the locks treated with compositions Al and A2 after 5 shampoo washes).

Claims

CLAIMS1. A cosmetic composition comprising:i) one or more alkanolamines,ii) one or more compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof, iii) one or more alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides, and iv) one or more aminosilicones.

2. The cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof is strictly greater than 1.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino- 1,2-propanediol, tri s(hydroxymethyl)aminom ethane and mixtures thereof; preferably the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkanolamine(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, better still from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof are chosen from taurine and derivatives thereof, preferentially from taurine and salts thereof, better still from taurine, sodium taurate, potassium taurate, magnesium taurate, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially taurine.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound(s) chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.75% to 10%by weight, preferentially from 1% to 6% by weight, better still from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are chosen from alkali metal hydroxides and mixtures thereof, preferentially from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, better still potassium hydroxide.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxide(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, better still from 0.6% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof is between 1.1 and 5, preferentially between 1.2 and 3, better still between 1.3 and 2.

10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is strictly greater than 1, preferentially is between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 4 and 8.

11. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the total content of alkanolamine(s) to the total content of compounds chosen from aminosulfonic acids and derivatives thereof and of alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal or ammonium hydroxides is strictly greater than 1, preferentially is between 1 and 3, more preferentially between 1.1 and 2.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aminosilicone is chosen from aminosilicones with hydrocarbon end groups, better still from silicones of formula (I):wherein:- x is a number between 1 and 5000, preferably between 10 and 2000, better still between 100 and 1000;- y is a number between 1 and 5000, preferably between 1 and 500, better still between 1 and 100;- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and / or alkoxy radicals OR, where R = linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 28 carbon atoms, notably 12 to 24 carbon atoms; it being possible for said alkyl radicals to optionally be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups OH;- A denotes a linear or branched, preferably branched, divalent alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, notably from 3 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the aminosilicone is Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone.

13. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aminosilicone(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein it further comprises one or more metal salts of an organic acid other than the amino acids, preferably one or more alkali metal salts, alkaline-earth metal salts, transition metal salts or salts of an element from group 12 of the periodic table of an a-hydroxy acid, better still of an a-hydroxy acid chosen from gluconic acid, glycolicacid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid and mandelic acid, better still magnesium gluconate, calcium gluconate or zinc gluconate.

15. The composition as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the metal salt(s) of an organic acid other than the amino acids are present in a content ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and, more preferably, from 0.2% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein it further comprises one or more thickeners, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, preferentially from guar gums, better still from nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, better still from 1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein it further comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic surfactants, preferentially chosen from oxyalkylenated, notably oxyethylenated, Cs to C40 alcohols, better still an oxyethylenated derivative of stearyl alcohol, even better still steareth-2, steareth-20, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein it further comprises one or more fatty substances other than the aminosilicones, preferably chosen from liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, C8-C30 fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, preferentially chosen from the mixture of hydrocarbons with the INCI name C15-19 Alkane, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, preferably in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferentially from 2% to 12% by weight, better still from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. A method for straightening and / or relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair, using at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

20. The use of at least one composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 18, for straightening and / or relaxing keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

Images