Cosmetic composition comprising polymeric microparticles and application method

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising microparticles of a polymer based on (meth)acrylate units. This cosmetic composition has cosmetic care and make-up effects such as a smoothing effect on the skin surface or an optical blurring effect on skin imperfections. The present invention also relates to a method for caring for and making up keratinic materials, comprising a step of applying said cosmetic composition to the body.

Description

[0001] Description

[0002] Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising polymeric microparticles and method of application

[0003] Technical Field

[0004] The present invention relates to the cosmetic field, and more particularly to the use of polymeric microparticles based on an acrylate copolymer to give particular optical and sensory properties to cosmetic product formulations.

[0005] The present invention also relates to a skincare and / or makeup process comprising an application step on keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition comprising these microparticles.

[0006] Previous technique

[0007] The use of silicones in skincare and makeup products is common and appreciated by consumers seeking a more pleasant sensory experience, particularly during application. They want softness and easy application that glides onto the skin. Among these silicone ingredients are silicone elastomers, widely used to provide a particular sensory experience described by users as comfort, softness, a "cushioned" effect, or a rubbery feel with a velvety finish.

[0008] The optical properties of elastomers are also used to advantage. By diffusing incident light, they improve the skin's appearance and blur surface imperfections, including wrinkles. This optical smoothing is called the "blur" or "soft-focus" effect.

[0009] Used in the cosmetic field for many years without questioning their safety, elastomers derived from silicone chemistry are increasingly being abandoned by consumers in favor of products perceived as less synthetic, more natural, or with better biodegradability.

[0010] The need therefore remains to develop alternative non-silicone compounds with properties equivalent to prior art elastomers in terms of sensoriality and optical effects, and whose biodegradability can be improved.

[0011] Description of the invention

[0012] The present invention addresses this need and proposes a cosmetic composition comprising bulk polymeric microparticles based on a polymer comprising units corresponding to a first monomer Ml multi(meth)acrylate, as well as additional units selected from:

[0013] - the units corresponding to a second monofunctional M2 monomer comprising at least one caprolactone group and a single (meth)acrylate group, and

[0014] - mixtures of units corresponding to a third monofunctional monomer M3 chosen from among the C12-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and of units corresponding to a fourth multifunctional monomer M4, different from the first monomer M1, comprising at least two urethane groups and at least two (meth)acrylate groups,

[0015] said cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from said polymeric microparticles, preferably at least two.

[0016] In particular, it has been found that these cosmetic compositions possess multiple properties valued by consumers, among which good physico-chemical properties and good cosmetic properties exist or coexist.

[0017] Examples of physicochemical properties include stability, fluidity, homogeneity, and biodegradability.

[0018] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also have a pleasant sensory experience upon application, without necessarily being formulated with silicone elastomers traditionally used in the prior art to achieve the same effects. These sensations may include, for example, a smooth, gliding effect that facilitates even application of the product, and a more pleasant feel of the texture upon application. Furthermore, the time during which the product can be spread and worked on the skin (the "play time") can advantageously be extended to achieve the makeup effect desired by the user.

[0019] At the end of the application, the consumer can perceive a deposit with a pleasant texture due to its elasticity, the cushioning effect it provides, and its lack of stickiness on the fingers.

[0020] Once applied to the skin, the cosmetic composition can advantageously provide a good sensory experience including softness, the perception of a smooth deposit, the perception of a non-sticky deposit to the finger, and the sensation of bare skin.

[0021] Finally, the cosmetic compositions of the invention can confer good optical properties allowing the modulation of visual perceptions of the skin on which it is applied, such as matteness, shine, uniformity of complexion, relief, color and imperfections.

[0022] For example, the cosmetic compositions of the invention exhibit properties equivalent to, or even superior to, those of prior art complexion-perfecting products. They contain hydrocarbon ingredients as an alternative to the silicone ingredients used extensively in the prior art, in order to obtain easy-to-apply products that provide a natural makeup result by concealing skin imperfections or providing a matte finish. These hydrocarbon ingredients may be bio-based.

[0023] In one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is more fluid and glides more easily upon application than prior art compositions containing a silicone elastomer. After application, the product leaves a soft and smooth residue on the body.

[0024] A process for preparing this cosmetic composition may include a step of supplying the microparticles in the form of a solid or liquid concentrated composition, an optional step of dispersing the microparticles in an oil, and a step of mixing the concentrated composition or dispersion with at least one other cosmetic ingredient.

[0025] Finally, the present invention relates to a cosmetic method for the care or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin or lips, said method comprising a step of applying the cosmetic composition to at least one part of the body and / or face. This method makes it possible to obtain at least one of the effects mentioned above.

[0026] Description of the implementation methods

[0027] A first object of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising bulk polymeric microparticles based on a polymer comprising units corresponding to a first monomer Ml multi(meth)acrylate, as well as additional units selected from:

[0028] - the units corresponding to a second monofunctional M2 monomer comprising at least one caprolactone group and a single (meth)acrylate group, and

[0029] - mixtures of units corresponding to a third monofunctional monomer M3 selected from C12-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and of units corresponding to a fourth multifunctional monomer M4, different from the first monomer M1, comprising at least two urethane groups and at least two (meth)acrylate groups,

[0030] said cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from said polymeric microparticles, preferably at least two.

[0031] A second object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application on said keratinous materials of a cosmetic composition conforming to the preceding description.

[0032] By "cosmetic composition" we mean any composition intended for cosmetic purposes, that is to say aesthetic purposes, which may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body and more particularly with keratinous materials, in particular human skin and / or lips.

[0033] By "cosmetically acceptable ingredient" we mean a physiologically acceptable chemical compound, including any excipient suitable for topical use, in contact with keratinous materials, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or allergic response.

[0034] According to the invention, "keratinous materials" refers to skin and / or its appendages, and more particularly to human skin and / or lips. Specifically, this includes skin of the face and / or neck and / or body, and lips.

[0035] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "microparticles" refers to a set or plurality of individual microparticles, which may individually exhibit different shapes or morphologies and / or dimensions. The dimensions are therefore typically expressed as distributions or averages. The microparticles have an average size between 1 µm and 100 µm, preferably between 1 µm and 50 µm. The average size can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art and may correspond to the median volumetric size. The median volumetric size of the microparticles or droplets, also referred to as D50, corresponds to the size of the microparticles defined such that 50% by volume of the microparticles have a size smaller than D50. The median volumetric size can be determined by light diffraction, with said particles or droplets dispersed in a liquid medium.It can be determined by light diffraction, using a laser particle size analyzer. For example, it can be determined by light diffraction using a MasterSizer® laser particle size analyzer, in particular the MasterSizer® 3000, with the microparticles or droplets dispersed in a liquid medium.

[0036] The "microparticles" of the invention are bulk microparticles of polymeric nature, whose molecular structure is homogeneous throughout their mass. They are typically free of closed cavities distributed within them that are filled with a gaseous or non-gaseous composition. It is specified that the bulk microparticles may exhibit porosities, that is, open cavities, which may be homogeneously distributed within them and / or around their periphery. The microparticles are advantageously bulk microparticles based on a cross-linked acrylate copolymer with a three-dimensional molecular structure. They are very advantageously free of any silicone groups.

[0037] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "between", used with a range of values, includes the bounds of the range of values.

[0038] The term "(meth)acrylate" refers to a molecule containing a single (meth)acrylate group. The term "multi(methacrylate)" refers to a molecule containing two or more multi(methacrylate) groups.

[0039] The polymer comprises units corresponding to a multi(meth)acrylate Ml monomer, also referred to as "multifunctional Ml monomer".

[0040] The multi(meth)acrylate monomer Ml, also called Ml monomer, is a monomer preferably comprising 2 to 8 (meth)acrylate groups. The multi(meth)acrylate monomer Ml can be selected from di(meth)acrylate monomers, tri(meth)acrylate monomers, tetra(meth)acrylate monomers, penta(meth)acrylate monomers, hexa(meth)acrylate monomers, septa(meth)acrylate monomers, and octa(meth)acrylate monomers.

[0041] According to a first particular embodiment, the monomer Ml is a di(meth)acrylate monomer, that is, it has exactly two (meth)acrylate groups. According to a second embodiment, the monomer Ml is a hexa(meth)acrylate monomer, that is, it has exactly six (meth)acrylate groups. Specific examples of the monomer Ml include a dimethacrylate monomer, a diacrylate monomer, and a hexaacrylate monomer. The multi(meth)acrylate monomer Ml comprises a multivalent group bearing from 2 to 8 methacrylate groups. In the case of a di(meth)acrylate monomer Ml, the two methacrylate groups are preferably located at opposite ends of the divalent group.

[0042] The multivalent group can be saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, alicyclic or cyclic, aliphatic or aromatic.

[0043] The multivalent group comprises carbon and hydrogen atoms and may include one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen and nitrogen. The multivalent group may therefore include at least one functional group selected from ether, carbonyl, ester, urethane, or amine.

[0044] The multivalent group is, for example, a group derived from a linear, branched or cyclic alkane or from an aromatic compound.

[0045] A multivalent group may include one or more aromatic rings, such as a phenyl group.

[0046] The monomer Ml may be a monomer designated as a multi(meth)acrylate polyol, the polyol comprising at least two alcohol functional groups, and preferably the polyol comprising the same number of alcohol functional groups as the number of (meth)acrylate groups. Multi(meth)acrylate polyols comprise a multivalent group preferably derived from a polyol comprising from 2 to 8 alcohol functional groups.

[0047] The polyol, comprising 2 to 8 alcohol groups, can be selected from among the alpha, omega-diols that include a linear or cyclic carbon chain and correspond to a multivalent group derived from a linear alkane. Examples of alpha, omega-diols include C2-C12 alpha, omega-diols, particularly C4-C10 alpha, omega-diols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or polyethylene glycol containing at least two ethylene units. Examples of polyethylene glycol include diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, and tricyclodecane dimethanol.

[0048] A polyol can be branched or cyclic. An example of a branched polyol is a branched diol such as 1,3-butanediol, or a branched polyol comprising six alcohol groups such as dipentaerytritol.

[0049] In the case of a di(meth)acrylate monomer, the divalent group can be designated by the term "alkylene" or "alkanediyl." In this case, the di(meth)acrylate monomer is, for example, an alkylene-di(meth)acrylate, which can also be designated as a diol-di(meth)acrylate. Linear alkylene-diacrylates, particularly those with a C12-Cl ratio, and linear alkylene-dimethacrylates, particularly those with a C12-Cl ratio, are well-suited as di(meth)acrylate monomers. The monomer Ml alkylene-di(meth)acrylate can also be referred to as diol-di(meth)acrylate, the diol being, for example, an alpha, omega-diol in the C2-C12 position, and more particularly an alpha, omega-diol in the C6-C10 position. In a particular embodiment, the multivalent group consists of carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, or of carbon, hydrogen, and nitrogen. For example, the multivalent group is saturated and includes alcohol and / or ether and / or amine functional groups.

[0050] The monomer Ml may, in particular, be free of more than one urethane group. It may, in particular, be free of any urethane group.

[0051] Examples of difunctional monomers Ml include:

[0052] - 1,6-hexanediol diacrylate (HDDA),

[0053] - 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate,

[0054] - 1,10-decanediol diacrylate,

[0055] - 1,10-decanediol dimethacrylate (DDDMA),

[0056] - polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate,

[0057] - 1,9-nonanediol dimethacrylate,

[0058] - 1,4-butanediol dimethacrylate,

[0059] - 2,2-bis(4-methacryloxyphenyl)propane,

[0060] - 1,3-butanediol dimethacrylate,

[0061] - 1,4-butanediol diacrylate,

[0062] - ethylene glycol diacrylate,

[0063] - 1,5-pentanediol dimethacrylate,

[0064] - 1,4-phenylene diacrylate,

[0065] - tetraethylene glycol diacrylate,

[0066] - ethylene glycol dimethacrylate,

[0067] - diethylene glycol diacrylate,

[0068] - triethylene glycol diacrylate,

[0069] - triethylene glycol dimethacrylate,

[0070] - difunctional (meth)acrylated amines,

[0071] - tricyclodecane dimethanol diacrylate, and

[0072] - epoxidized and (meth)acrylated soybean oil (CAS 91722-14-4).

[0073] Other examples of monomers include polyol-multi(meth)acrylates modified with caprolactone motifs, for example, with at least two caprolactone motifs. Dipentaerythritol hexaacrylate modified with 2 to 6 moles of caprolactone (DP2CAHA or DP6CAHA) are particularly noteworthy, notably the products Etermer® EM2692 (DP2CAHA) and Etermer® EM2696 (DP6CAHA) marketed by Eternal.

[0074] In this first particular embodiment and its particular aspects, the polymer may comprise at most 30%, preferably at most 25% by weight, for example from 1% to 30%, of units corresponding to the monomer Ml di(meth)acrylate relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0075] Depending on a particular option, the monomer Ml represents from 1% to 15% by weight, for example from 1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 3% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the monomers, and possibly the photoinitiator, which are used to prepare the microparticles.

[0076] Without wanting to be bound by any theory, the multi(meth)acryl character of the monomer Ml could contribute to endowing the polymeric microparticles with particular physico-chemical properties including the cosmetic sensory properties and the optical properties mentioned previously.

[0077] The M2 monomer can thus be chosen from among (meth)acrylate monomers comprising a hydrocarbon chain containing at least one radical derived from caprolactone. The M2 monomer is said to be monofunctional due to the presence of only one polymerizable (meth)acrylate group.

[0078] The polymer may comprise units corresponding to at least one monomer M2 of formula (I):

[0079] CH2=CR 1 (COO-R 2 O-[-CO-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-O-] x -H) (I)

[0080] in which

[0081] - R 1 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0082] - R 2 is a linear or C1-C6 branched alkylene group, and

[0083] - x is a real number between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 3.

[0084] In a first aspect of the polymer, the monomer M2 has formula (I) in which R 1 is a hydrogen atom.

[0085] In a second aspect of the polymer, the monomer M2 has formula (I) in which R 1 is a methyl group.

[0086] The M2 monomer is a mixture of molecules having the same R groups 1 and R 2Thus, x is a real number reflecting the average number of repeating units in all the molecules that make up the monomer M2 used to synthesize the polymer. For example, for a given monomer M2, some molecules contain a single repeating unit -CO-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-O-, while others contain two repeating units -CO-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-O-. The value of x is therefore a decimal number between 1 and 2 corresponding to the average molar number of molecules in the monomer M2.

[0087] In the M2 monomers of formula (I), R 2 is often a linear C1-C6 alkylene group. R 2 In this case, it is chosen from among the methylene, ethylene, n-propylene, n-butylene, n-pentylene, and n-hexylene groups. R 2 is preferably an ethylene (ethanediyl) group. An example of monomer M2 corresponding to formula (I) in which R 1 is a hydrogen atom, R 2is an ethanediyl group, and x is equal to 2 can be represented by formula (II):

[0088] CH2=CH(COO-CH2-CH2-O-[-CO-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-O-]2-H) (II)

[0089] Commercially available monomers that can be used as M2 monomer(s) include, in particular, Sartomer® SR495B, Placcel® FAI, FA2, FA3, FA4, FA5, or FA10L, Placcel® FMI, FM2, FM3, FM4 or FM5, Photomer 4034, Miramer® M100 and SC1010 and SC1033S, Hydroxyethylcaprolactone Acrylate (HECLA), and Hydroxyethylcaprolactone Acrylate (HECLA), marketed by BASF.

[0090] The monomer M2 can be a mixture of monomers of different formulas (I). The monomer M2 can also comprise a mixture of monomers of formula (I) such as R 1 is a hydrogen and monomer of formula (I) such that R1 is a methyl, or be made up of a mixture of these two monomers.

[0091] When monomer M2 comprises a binary mixture of different formula (I) monomers, or is composed of a binary mixture of different formula (I) monomers, the weight ratio between the two constituents of the mixture can vary. It is generally from 0.1:99.9 to 99.9:0.1, often from 1:99 to 99:1, for example from 10:90 to 90:10.

[0092] In another aspect, the monomer M2 comprises a ternary or quaternary mixture of monomers of different formula (I) or is made up of a ternary or quaternary mixture of monomers of different formula (I).

[0093] In the microparticles according to the invention, the polymer often comprises at least 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably at least 90%, for example from 90% to 97% or from 92% to 96% of units corresponding to the M2 monomer.

[0094] Advantageously, the monofunctional M3 monomer is an alkyl (meth)acrylate comprising a single methacrylate group, which may also be designated as an alkyl mono(meth)acrylate. It is selected from linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl acrylates, or linear or branched C12-C22 alkenyl acrylates, or linear or branched C12-C22 alkyl methacrylates, or linear or branched C12-C22 alkenyl methacrylates, the term "alkenyl" designating a hydrocarbon group that includes at least one unsaturation.

[0095] Examples include C16-C18 alkyl acrylates, such as stearyl acrylate, or C16-C18 alkyl methacrylates.

[0096] Examples also include C20-C22 alkyl acrylates, such as behenyl acrylate, or C20-C22 alkyl methacrylates. Examples also include C12-C14 alkyl acrylates, such as lauryl acrylate, or C12-C14 alkyl methacrylates.

[0097] In a particular embodiment, the monofunctional M3 monomer is stearyl acrylate.

[0098] When the polymer contains units corresponding to the M3 monomer, the polymer generally comprises at least 50% by weight, and more specifically at least 55% by weight relative to the total polymer weight, of units corresponding to the monofunctional M3 monomer. Depending on a particular option, the polymer comprises 60% to 80% or 65% to 75% by weight of units corresponding to the M3 monomer relative to the total polymer weight.

[0099] The M4 monomer, also called the M4 multi(meth)acrylate monomer, is a multifunctional monomer, different from the first monomer M1, comprising at least two urethane groups and at least two (meth)acrylate groups.

[0100] The M4 monomer is functionalized by at least two (meth)acrylate groups. It comprises a hydrocarbon skeleton including at least two urethane groups.

[0101] In particular, it can be a di(meth)acrylate monomer with urethane groups, which can also be referred to as urethane di(meth)acrylate. The chemical structure of urethane dimethacrylate includes, for example, a carbon chain comprising at least two urethane functions and a meth(acrylate) group at each end of the chain.

[0102] In the first case, the monomer M4 is represented by formula (III):

[0103] CH2=CR 3 -CO-OR 4 -O-CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 4-O-CO-CR 3 =CH2(III)

[0104] in which

[0105] - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0106] - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group at C1-C6, preferably an ethyl group, -R 5 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C6-C12 or an alicyclic group or an aromatic group.

[0107] In this first case, the monomer M4 can be a diurethane dimethacrylate in which the R group 3 is a methyl group, R 4 is an ethanediyl, and the R group 5 is a C6-C10 branched alkylene, preferably at C8-C10. For example, the M4 monomer can correspond to formula (VII):

[0108] CH2=C(CH3)-COO-(CH2)2-O-CO-NH-CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2-C(CH3)2-(CH2)2-NH-CO-O-(CH2)2-OCO-C(CH3)=CH2(VII)

[0109] A monomer M4 of formula (VII) may have CAS number 72869-86-4.

[0110] In a second case, the monomer M4 can correspond to formula (IV):

[0111] CH2=CR 3 -CO-OR 4 -O-[CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 6 -O] y -R 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2(IV)

[0112] in which- R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0113] - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group at C1-C6, preferably an ethyl group, -R 5 and R 6 are groups, called chain extenders, linear or branched aliphatic groups in the C6-C12 range, or alicyclic groups, or aromatic groups,

[0114] - y is a real number between 1 and 10, preferably between 1 and 3.

[0115] In a third case, the monomer M4 can be represented by the formula (V):

[0116] R 8 (R 7 -O-CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2)n (V)

[0117] in which

[0118] - R 3 , R 4 , R 5 are defined as before,

[0119] - R 7 is a linear or branched divalent aliphatic group in Cl-ClO that may contain ether, carbonyl, ester or amine functions,

[0120] - R 8 is an n-valent group,

[0121] - n is a real number between 3 and 10.

[0122] In a fourth case, the monomer M4 can correspond to formula (VI):

[0123] R 8 (R 7 - O[CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 6 -O]yR 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2) n (VI)

[0124] in which

[0125] - R 3 , R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , R 8 , n and y are defined as before.

[0126] The monomer M4 according to formula (IV) can be obtained by reacting a diisocyanate compound with an aliphatic monoalcohol bearing a (meth)acrylate group. One isocyanate group reacts with the -OH group of a hydroxyalky methacrylate in the C1-C6 position. The second isocyanate group can react with a chain extender R 6 bearing a function capable of reacting with the isocyanate as an alcohol and a function capable of reacting with the aliphatic monoalcohol bearing the (meth)acrylate group as a carboxylic acid function -COOH forming a di(meth)acrylate diurethane.

[0127] The monomer M4 according to formula (V) can be obtained by reacting three or more diisocyanate compounds with aliphatic monoalcohols bearing a (meth)acrylate group. One isocyanate group reacts with the -OH group of a Cl-C6 hydroxyalkyl methacrylate. The second isocyanate group of the isocyanate compounds reacts with a polyfunctional compound bearing R groups. 7 and R 8 , such as a polyol for example, to form a multifunctional poly(meth)acrylate and polyurethane monomer.

[0128] The monomer M4 according to formula (VI) can be obtained by reacting three or more diisocyanate compounds with aliphatic monoalcohols bearing a (meth)acrylate group. One isocyanate function of the diisocyanate compounds reacts with the -OH function of a C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl methacrylate. The second function of the diisocyanate compounds can also react with a chain extender R 6a difunctional group, one of whose functional groups is capable of reacting with the isocyanate. This functional group can be an alcohol. The second functional group of the chain extender can react with a polyfunctional compound bearing R groups 7 and R 8 This second function of the chain extender can be a carboxylic acid that can react with the polyfunctional compound, which may be a polyol. A multifunctional polyurethane poly(meth)acrylate monomer M4 is thus obtained. The diisocyanate compounds that can be used for the preparation of the M4 monomer according to formulas (III), (IV), (V), and (VI) can be

[0129] - aliphatics such as hexamethylene diisocyanate, tetramethylene diisocyanate, dodecamethylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 2,4,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 2-methylpentane-1,5-diisocyanate, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diisocyanate,

[0130] - alicyclics such as isophorone diisocyanate, hydrogenated xylylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, 1,4-cyclohexane diisocyanate, methylcyclohexylene diisocyanate, 1,3-bis(isocyanate methyl)cyclohexane;

[0131] - aromatics such as naphthylene diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, diphenylmethane-4,4'-diisocyanate, 1,3-phenylene diisocyanate.

[0132] The so-called chain extender groups R 6 that can be used for formulas (IV) and (VI) can be linear or branched difunctional aliphatic compounds bearing at the end of the chain a carboxylic acid function and at the other end an alcohol function such as glycolic acid, 3-hydroxypropanoic acid, 4-hydroxybutanoic acid, 5-hydroxypentanoic acid or 6-hydroxyhexanoic acid.

[0133] R chain extenders 6They can also be reaction products between a diol and a dicarboxylic acid, or between a diol and a cyclic ester. Diols that can be used include diethylene glycol, 2,2'-dimethylpropan-1,3-diol, or 1,1'-[(1-methyl-1,2-ethanediyl)bis(oxy)]bis-2-propanol, while the dicarboxylic acid can be hexanedioic acid. Cyclic esters can be lactones such as propiolactone, butyrolactone, valerocaprolactone, or caprolactone.

[0134] The R group 8 is a multivalent group to which n groups, as given in the formulas, are attached by covalent bonds. It preferably comprises carbon and hydrogen atoms and may include one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen and nitrogen. The R group 8 can therefore include at least one function chosen from ether, carbonyl, ester and amine.

[0135] Polyfunctional compounds bearing R groups7 and R 8 may be polyols such as alpha,alpha',alpha"-l,2,3-propanetriyltris(omega-hydroxypoly(oxy(methyl-l,2-ethanediyl))), pentaerythritol or dipentaerythritol.

[0136] When the polymer includes units corresponding to the M4 monomer, the polymer generally comprises at most 20%, preferably at most 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, of units corresponding to the M4 monomer. Depending on a particular option, the M4 monomer represents from 5% to 15% by weight, for example from 8% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the M1, M3, M4 monomers, and possibly the photoinitiator, which are used to prepare the microparticles.

[0137] In a first particular embodiment of the cosmetic composition of the invention, the polymer comprises units corresponding to the monomer M2 and units corresponding to the monomer M1. The multifunctional character allows these units to crosslink, by linking them, typically linear macromolecular chains, where appropriate having a comb-like structure, formed of units corresponding to the monomer M2 and possibly other units corresponding to other monofunctional, or multifunctional, monomers different from M1.

[0138] In this embodiment the monomer M1 can be a monomer M4 as described above, if said monomer M4 is a di(meth)acrylate, that is to say that it has exactly two (meth)acrylate groups.

[0139] It is mentioned that in this first embodiment other units, corresponding to other monomers, noted as M5 monomers, may be present.

[0140] Examples of M5 monomers for this first embodiment include mono(meth)acrylate monomers, in particular the M3 monomers described below, and multi(methacrylate) monomers different from the M1 monomers used.

[0141] In a particular embodiment and according to a first particular aspect, the monomer M2 comprises a monomer of formula (I) and the monomer M1 is

[0142] - a linear alkylenedi(meth)acrylate, in particular 1,6-hexanedioldiacrylate, 1,6-hexanedioldimethacrylate, 1,10-decanedioldiacrylate or 1,10-decanediol dimethacrylate, or

[0143] - a polyol-multi(meth)acrylate modified by caprolactone motifs.

[0144] In a second particular aspect of this particular embodiment, the monomer M2 comprises a monomer of formula (I) such that R 1 is hydrogen.

[0145] In a third particular aspect of this particular embodiment, the monomer M2 comprises a monomer of formula (I) such that R 1 is a methyl group.

[0146] In a fourth particular aspect of this particular embodiment, the monomer M2 comprises a monomer of formula (II).

[0147] It is mentioned that the polymer may include groups corresponding to a photoinitiator. The polymer may, for example, contain from 0.1% to 5% by weight of such groups, relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0148] In one embodiment, the polymer comprises, relative to the total weight of polymer:

[0149] - from 85% to 99.8% by weight of units corresponding to the M2 monomer,

[0150] - from 0.1% to 10% by weight of units corresponding to the monomer Ml,

[0151] - from 0.1% to 5% by weight of groups corresponding to a photoinitiator.

[0152] In one embodiment, the polymer comprises, relative to the total weight of polymer:

[0153] - 93% to 96% by weight of units corresponding to the M2 monomer,

[0154] - from 3.9% to 6% by weight of units corresponding to the monomer Ml,

[0155] - 0.1% to 1% by weight of groups corresponding to a photoinitiator. Polymer microparticles with particularly advantageous cosmetic properties combine the choice of monomers and proportions just mentioned.

[0156] A first example of realization derives from hexanediol diacrylate, in particular 1,6-hexanedioldiacrylate used as monomer M1, and from the monomer of formula (II) as monomer M2.

[0157] A second example of an embodiment is derived from a polyol-multi(meth)acrylate modified with caprolactone motifs used as monomer M1, and the monomer of formula (II) as monomer M2. The polyol-multi(meth)acrylate modified with caprolactone motifs can in particular be dipentaerythritol hexaacrylate modified with 2 moles to 6 moles of caprolactone.

[0158] In both examples, monomer M1 preferably represents 3% to 7% by weight, preferably 4% to 6% by weight, and monomer M2 preferably represents 93% to 97% by weight of the mixture of monomers M1 and M2 used for the synthesis of the microparticles. The polymer preferably consists essentially of monomer M1, monomer M2, and the photoinitiator.

[0159] A cosmetic composition comprising microparticles conforming to these characteristics includes, for example, an alkane oil as described below, and a process for preparing this cosmetic composition may include a step of dispersing the microparticles in an alkane oil as described below, before bringing the microparticles into contact with the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

[0160] The polymer derived from the monomers M1 and M2 can be designated as a crosslinked copolymer (caprolactone (meth)acrylate) / di(meth)acrylate, or a crosslinked copolymer (caprolactone (meth)acrylate) / (polyol-multi(meth)acrylates modified by caprolactone motifs).

[0161] In a second particular embodiment of the cosmetic composition of the invention, the polymer comprises units corresponding to monomer M1, units corresponding to monomer M3 and units corresponding to monomer M4.

[0162] It is mentioned that in this second embodiment, other units, corresponding to other monomers, denoted as M6 monomers, may be present. Examples of M6 monomers for this second embodiment include mono(meth)acrylate monomers different from monomer M3, and multi(meth)acrylate monomers different from monomers M1 and M4 used.

[0163] It is mentioned that the polymer may include groups corresponding to a photoinitiator. The polymer may, for example, contain from 0.1% to 5% by weight of such groups, relative to the total weight of the polymer.

[0164] Monomer M1 preferably represents 15% to 50% by weight, monomer M3 preferably represents 40% to 75% by weight, and monomer M4 preferably represents 5% to 15% by weight, the value of each of the three percentages being chosen such that the sum of the three is equal to 100%, and the percentages being expressed in relation to the weight of the mixture of monomers M1, M3 and M4.

[0165] In one embodiment, the polymer comprises, relative to the total weight of polymer:

[0166] - from 65% to 73.9% by weight of units corresponding to the M3 monomer,

[0167] - 18% to 22% by weight of units corresponding to the monomer Ml,

[0168] - 8% to 12% by weight of units corresponding to the M4 monomer,

[0169] - from 0.1% to 1% by weight of groups corresponding to a photoinitiator.

[0170] the percentage values ​​being chosen such that their sum equals 100.

[0171] An example embodiment involves the use of decanediol dimethacrylate (corresponding to a di(meth)acrylate diol in which the diol is a C2-C12 alpha, omega-diol described previously) as monomer M1, combined with a C16-C18 alkyl acrylate as monomer M3, and the monomer of formula (VII) as monomer M4. In this embodiment, the monomer percentages described in the preceding paragraph may be used.

[0172] A specific example of a polymer is such that the monomer M1, preferably decanediol dimethacrylate, represents 18% to 22% by weight, the monomer M3, preferably stearyl acrylate, represents 68% to 72% by weight, and the monomer M4, preferably of formula (VII), represents 8% to 12% by weight, the total of these three percentages being equal to 100%, and the three percentages being expressed with respect to the total weight of the monomers M1, M3 and M4.

[0173] The polymer formed from the monomers M1, M3, and M4 can be described as a crosslinked urethane (meth)acrylate / acrylate copolymer. In a specific case, the copolymer is a crosslinked alkyl (meth)acrylate / multi-urethane di(meth)acrylate / alkyl di(meth)acrylate copolymer, the term "multi" indicating at least two urethane groups. For example, the copolymer is a C16-C18 alkyl acrylate / diurethane dimethacrylate / C8-C12 diol dimethacrylate copolymer.

[0174] This description further includes polymeric microparticles that are obtained or are obtainable by radical copolymerization of a reaction mixture comprising monomers M1 and M2, and polymeric microparticles that are obtained or are obtainable by radical copolymerization of a reaction mixture comprising monomers M1, M3, and M4. In this process, the characteristics previously disclosed to describe the microparticles can be applied individually or in combination.

[0175] Polymer microparticles with particularly advantageous cosmetic properties combine the choice of monomers and proportions just mentioned. Preferably, the polymer content is at least 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticles. A polymer content of at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticles is particularly preferred. In certain advantageous aspects, the polymer content reaches 95% by weight, or even 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticles.

[0176] The median volumetric size of the microparticles is preferably between 1 pm and 50 pm, preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm, for example between 1 pm and 5 pm or between 5 pm and 10 pm or between 5 pm and 10 pm, or between 10 pm and 15 pm, or between 15 pm and 20 pm, or between 20 pm and 30 pm, or between 30 pm and 40 pm, or between 40 pm and 50 pm. It can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, including laser diffraction.

[0177] They may have a biodegradability value defined according to the OECD guidelines for testing chemicals, and in particular one of the methods in guideline no. 301, in particular the method described in test no. 301F "Manometric respirometry test" (in particular the document in its version with a single correction of 26 July 2013, available at: https: / / www.oecd.org / content / dam / oecd / fr / publications / reports / 1992 / 07 / test-no-301-ready-biodegradability_glgh2913 / 9789264070356-fr.pdf), which allows a substance to be classified as "readily biodegradable" if its biodegradability rate reaches at least 60% in a 10-day interval during the 28 days of the test.

[0178] The biodegradability value according to the tests defined in the OECD guidelines is, for example, greater than a value chosen from the group consisting of 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, and 80%. For example, microparticles may exhibit substantial biodegradability according to OECD guideline 301F greater than 10%, 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 60%, 70%, or 80%.

[0179] Microparticles can be included in a concentrated composition, solid, liquid, or in viscous form, for example in the form of a gel.

[0180] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "concentrated composition" refers to a collection of microparticles that may be substantially pure or mixed with at least one additional compound. The microparticles, or the concentrated compositions in which they are included, are used to prepare the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

[0181] The concentrated composition often comprises at least 15%, for example at least 30%, for example at least 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticle composition. It may comprise 15% to 20% by weight of the microparticles, or 20% to less than 30% by weight of the microparticles, or 30% to 40% by weight of the microparticles, or 40% to 50% by weight of the microparticles. The concentrated composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticles composition. In some aspects, the concentrated composition comprises at least 60% or even 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticles composition. In one particular preferred aspect, the concentrated composition comprises at least 90% or even at least 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticles composition.

[0182] At least one other compound that may be present in the concentrated composition can be chosen, for example, from liquid dispersion carriers or media, such as liquid dispersants, for example an aqueous medium, from microparticles other than those conforming to the composition according to the invention, for example organic microparticles, particularly polymeric ones, or inorganic microparticles, or from compounds introduced during the manufacture of the microparticles. These compounds may be intentionally introduced in order to retain them, at least partially, in the concentrated composition. For example, they may be manufacturing residues from the microparticles according to the invention. The manufacturing residues may be chosen, for example, from unreacted monomers and, where applicable, from at least one constituent of a phase used for the manufacture of the microparticles.A particular example of a phase used for the manufacture of microparticles is the C2 phase described below in the context of the process according to the invention, of which at least one specific constituent may be present in the concentrated composition, for example as a manufacturing residue.

[0183] The content of at least one other compound in the concentrated composition is generally less than 85% by weight, for example, less than 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, this content is less than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In some aspects, the content of the other compound in the composition according to the invention is less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0184] This content may include 80% to 85% by weight, or more than 70% to 80% by weight, or 60% to 70% by weight, or 50% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the concentrated composition.

[0185] In a first embodiment, the concentrated composition is in solid form, particularly as a powder, and preferably comprises at least 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of microparticles, or of the solid. In this specific first embodiment, the concentrated composition, or more simply the microparticles, may comprise at least 95% or even 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or of the solid. In a particular aspect of this specific first embodiment, the concentrated composition consists of the microparticles and optionally of microparticle manufacturing residues.

[0186] In a second specific embodiment, the concentrated composition can also be in the form of a dispersion of bulk microparticles in a liquid medium, in particular an aqueous phase. In this case, it preferably comprises at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the microparticle composition. The microparticles can be synthesized by a process comprising the following steps:

[0187] A) the preparation of an emulsion comprising droplets comprising a hydrophobic phase comprising a monomer composition comprising at least the monomers M1 and M2 or at least the monomers M1, M3 and M4, and a polymerization initiator in a continuous aqueous phase

[0188] B) polymerization by activation of the polymerization initiator, in order to obtain microparticles comprising the polymer, and

[0189] C) optionally washing and / or concentration of microparticles.

[0190] The droplets are generally a continuous hydrophobic phase, preferably comprising a monomer composition including at least the M2 monomer and the initiator. In other words, each droplet consists of this continuous hydrophobic phase, and the droplets are typically monophasic, typically without any other phase dispersed within them.

[0191] In the process according to the invention, the monomer composition, also called the C2 monomer composition, comprises at least the mixtures or combinations of monomers as described above. Generally, the content of said monomers, expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the monomer composition, corresponds to the content in units in the polymer, as described above.

[0192] In a first embodiment of the invention, the monomer composition further comprises at least one monomer M1 and at least one monomer M2 as described above. In this case, the content of monomer M1, respectively M2, expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the monomer composition, generally corresponds to the content in M1 units, respectively M2, in the polymer, as described above.

[0193] In a second embodiment of the invention, the monomer composition comprises at least one monomer M1, at least one monomer M3, and at least one monomer M4 as described above. In this case, the content of monomer M1, M3, and M4, respectively, expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the monomer composition, generally corresponds to the content of M1, M3, and M4 units, respectively, in the polymer, as described above.

[0194] In one aspect of the process, the polymerization initiator is a photoinitiator. In this case, the polymerization is generally activated by UV light. The photoinitiators usable according to the present invention are known in the art and are described, for example, in "Photoinitiators in the crosslinking of coatings," G. Li Bassi, Double Liaison - Chimie des Peintures, No. 361, November 1985, pp. 34-41; "Industrial applications of photoinduced polymerization," Henri Strub, L'Actualité Chimique, February 2000, pp. 5-13; and "Photopolymers: theoretical considerations and setting reaction," Marc I.M. Abadie, Double Liaison - Chimie des Peintures, No. 435-436, 1992, pp. 28-34. These photoinitiators include:

[0195] - α-hydroxyketones, such as 2-hydroxy-2-methyl-l-phenyl-l-propanone, initially marketed for example under the names DAROCUR® 1173 and 4265, IRGACURE® 184, 2959, and 500 by BASF, and ADDITOL® CPK by CYTEC;

[0196] - α-aminoketones, in particular 2-benzyl-2-dimethylamino-l-(4-morpholinophenyl)-butanone-1, initially marketed for example under the names IRGACURE® 907 and 369 by the company BASF;

[0197] - Aromatic ketones, marketed for example under the name ESACURE® TZT by LAMBERTI; or thioxanthones, initially marketed for example under the name ESACURE® ITX by LAMBERTI, and quinones. These aromatic ketones most often require the presence of a hydrogen-donating compound such as tertiary amines, and in particular alkanolamines. One example is the tertiary amine ESACURE® EDB, initially marketed by LAMBERTI.

[0198] - alpha-dicarbonyl derivatives, the most common representative of which is benzyl dimethyl ketal, initially marketed under the name IRGACURE® 651 by BASF and by the company LAMBERTI under the name ESACURE® KB1, and

[0199] - acylphosphine oxides, such as for example bis-acylphosphine oxides (BAPO) initially marketed for example under the names IRGACURE® 819, 1700, and 1800, DAROCUR® 4265, LUCIRIN® TPO, and LUCIRIN® TPO-L by BASF.

[0200] Among the photoinitiators, we can also mention aromatic ketones such as benzophenone, phenylglyoxylates, such as phenylglyoxylic acid methyl ester, oxime esters, such as [l-(4-phenylsulfanylbenzoyl)heptylideneamino]benzoate, sulfonium salts, iodonium salts and oxime sulfonates.

[0201] In the process, the concentration of initiator, in particular photoinitiator, is generally 0.5% to 5% by weight, often 1% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the C2 monomer composition.

[0202] In the process according to the invention, the emulsion droplets generally have a median volume size of between 1 pm and 100 pm, preferably between 1 and 50 pm.

[0203] The microparticle preparation process involves a procedure comprising the following steps:

[0204] has 7 ) the addition under stirring of a monomer composition C2 according to the invention into a composition C3, the compositions C2 and C3 not being miscible with each other, the viscosity of composition C2 being between 30 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C and at a shear rate of 10 s -1, for example between 30 and 150 mPa.s or between 150 mPa.s and 500 mPa.s, and preferably greater than the viscosity of composition C3,

[0205] the viscosity of composition C3 being between 50 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s at 25°C, and preferably being greater than the viscosity of composition C2, thereby obtaining a simple emulsion (E2 7 ) comprising drops of composition C2 dispersed in composition C3;

[0206] b 7 ) where appropriate, the application of emulsion shear (E2'), and

[0207] c') the polymerization of composition C2, by which massive microparticles are obtained dispersed in composition C3.

[0208] Preferably, the viscosity of composition C2 at 25°C and a shear rate of 10 s -1 is between 100 mPa.s and 50,000 mPa.s, preferably between 200 mPa.s and 25,000 mPa.s, and for example between 300 mPa.s and 15,000 mPa.s.

[0209] Viscosity is measured using a Haake Rheostress™ 600 rheometer equipped with a 60 mm diameter cone with a 2-degree angle, and a temperature control cell set at 25°C. The viscosity value is read at a shear rate of 10 s 1 .

[0210] During stage a 7 ), composition C2 is at a temperature between 15°C and 60°C. During step a 7 ), composition C3 is at a temperature between 15°C and 60°C.

[0211] Under the addition conditions of step a'), compositions C2 and C3 are not miscible with each other, which means that the amount (by weight) of composition C2 capable of being solubilized in composition C3 is less than or equal to 5%, preferably less than 1%, and preferably less than 0.5%, relative to the total weight of composition C3, and that the amount (by weight) of composition C3 capable of being solubilized in composition C2 is less than or equal to 5%, preferably less than 1%, and preferably less than 0.5%, relative to the total weight of composition C2.

[0212] Thus, when composition C2 comes into contact with composition C3 under agitation, the latter is dispersed in the form of droplets, called "simple drops," the dispersion of these droplets of composition C2 in the continuous phase C3 being called an emulsion (E2 7 ).

[0213] To implement step a 7), any type of agitator commonly used to form emulsions can be used, such as a mechanical paddle agitator, a static emulsifier, an ultrasonic homogenizer, a membrane homogenizer, a high-pressure homogenizer, a colloidal mill, a high-shear disperser, or a high-speed homogenizer.

[0214] According to one embodiment, the viscosity of composition C3 at 25°C is greater than the viscosity of composition C2 at 25°C.

[0215] The viscosity of composition C3 at 25°C is between 500 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s.

[0216] Preferably, the viscosity of composition C3 at 25°C is between 3,000 mPa.s and 100,000 mPa.s, preferably between 5,000 mPa.s and 80,000 mPa.s, for example between 7,000 mPa.s and 70,000 mPa.s.

[0217] A very high viscosity of composition C3 can ensure the stability of the emulsion (E2 7) obtained at the end of step b 7 Preferably, the interfacial tension between compositions C2 and C3 is low. The low interfacial tension between compositions C2 and C3 also advantageously ensures the stability of the emulsion (E29) obtained at the end of step a 7 ).

[0218] The volume fraction of composition C2 in C3 can be varied from 0.05 to 0.5 in order to improve production yield and to vary the average diameter of the microparticles. At the end of this step, the size distribution of the emulsion (E2') is relatively broad.

[0219] According to one embodiment, the ratio between the volume of composition C2 and the volume of composition C3 varies between 1:20 and 20:1, for example between 1:10 and 10:1. Preferably, this ratio is between 1:9 and 3:1, preferably between 1:9 and 1:1.

[0220] According to one embodiment, composition C3 further comprises at least one branched polymer, preferably with a molecular weight greater than 5000 g / mol -1 , and / or at least one polymer with a molecular weight greater than 5,000 g / mol -1 , and / or solid microparticles such as silicates.

[0221] According to one embodiment, composition C3 comprises, at least as a manufacturing intermediate, a polymer with a molecular weight greater than 5,000 g / mol -1 , preferably between 10,000 g.mol -1 and 500,000 g / mol -1 , for example between 50,000 g.mol' 1 and 300,000 g.mol 1 .

[0222] As a polymer with a molecular weight greater than 5,000 g.mol' 1 Usable in composition C3, the following compounds can be cited, used alone or mixed together:

[0223] - cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose ethers: methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, methyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, ethylhydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose or methylhydroxypropyl cellulose;

[0224] - polyacrylates (also called carbomers), such as polyacrylic acid (PAA), polymethacrylic acid (PMAA), poly(hydroxyethyl methacrylate) (pHEMA), poly(N-2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate) (pHPMA);

[0225] - polyacrylamides such as poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) (PNIPAM);

[0226] - polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and its derivatives;

[0227] - polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and its derivatives;

[0228] - poly(ethylene glycol), poly(propylene glycol) and their derivatives, such as poly(ethylene glycol) acrylate / methacrylate, poly(ethylene glycol) diacrylate / dimethacrylate, polypropylene carbonate;

[0229] - polysaccharides such as carrageenans, locust bean gum or tara gum, dextran, xanthan gums, chitosan, agarose, hyaluronic acids, gellan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, diutan gum, oat gum, karaya gum, ghatti gum, curdlan gum, pectin, konjac gum, starch;

[0230] - protein derivatives such as gelatin, collagen, fibrin, polylysine, albumin, casein;

[0231] - silicone derivatives such as polydimethylsiloxane (also called dimethicone), alkyl silicones, aryl silicones, alkyl aryl silicones, polyethylene glycol dimethicones, polypropylene glycol dimethicone;

[0232] - waxes, such as diester waxes (alkanediol diesters, hydroxyl acid diesters), triester waxes (triacylglycerols, alkane-l,2-diol, o-hydroxy acid and fatty acid triesters, hydroxymalonic acid, fatty acid and alcohol esters, hydroxyl acid, fatty acid and fatty alcohol triesters, fatty acid, hydroxyl acid and diol triesters) and polyester waxes (polyesters of fatty acids). The fatty acid esters that can be used as waxes in the context of the invention are, for example, cetyl palmitate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl laurate, cetyl lactate, cetyl isononanoate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl monostearate or cetyl glyceryl palmitate;

[0233] - fatty acids usable as waxes such as cerotic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, dihydroxystearic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, arachidic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, tridecyclic acid, pentadecyclic acid, margaric acid, nonadecyclic acid, heneicosylic acid, tricosylic acid, pentacosylic acid, heptacosyl acid, montanic acid or nonacosylic acid;

[0234] - fatty acid salts, in particular aluminum salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearate, hydroxy aluminum bis(2-ethylhexanoate);

[0235] - isomerized jojoba oil;

[0236] - hydrogenated sunflower oil;

[0237] - hydrogenated coconut oil;

[0238] - hydrogenated lanolin oil;

[0239] - castor oil and its derivatives, in particular modified hydrogenated castor oil or compounds obtained by esterification of castor oil with fatty alcohols;

[0240] - polyurethanes and their derivatives;

[0241] - styrenic polymers such as styrene butadiene; and

[0242] - polyolefins such as polyisobutene.

[0243] According to one embodiment, composition C3 comprises, as a manufacturing intermediate, solid microparticles such as clays, silicas and silicates.

[0244] As examples of usable solid microparticles in composition C3, clays and silicates, particularly those belonging to the phyllosilicate category (also known as sheet silicas), can be cited. Examples of silicates usable within the scope of the invention include bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, montmorillonite, saponite, sauconite, nontronite, kaolinite, talc, and chalk. Synthetic fumed silicas can also be used. The clays, silicates, and silicas mentioned above can advantageously be modified by organic molecules such as polyethers, ethoxylated desamides, quaternary ammonium salts, long-chain diamines, long-chain esters, polyethylene glycols, and polypropylene glycols.

[0245] These microparticles can be used alone or mixed together.

[0246] According to one embodiment, composition C3 comprises, as a manufacturing intermediate, at least one polymer with a molecular weight greater than 5,000 g / mol -1 and solid microparticles. Any mixture of the compounds mentioned above can be used.

[0247] Step b 7 The process involves refining the size of the emulsion droplets. This may include a fragmentation step.

[0248] This step may consist of applying a homogeneous controlled shear to the emulsion, said applied shear rate being between 10 s -1 and 100,000 s' 1 .

[0249] According to one embodiment, the drops obtained in step a') are subjected to size refinement consisting of subjecting them to shearing capable of fragmenting them into new drops of homogeneous and controlled diameters.

[0250] According to one embodiment, in step b 7), the emulsion is subjected to shear in a mixer, which applies a homogeneous controlled shear.

[0251] Thus, according to this embodiment, step b 7 ) consists of applying a homogeneous controlled shear to the emulsion, said applied shear rate being between 1,000 s -1 and 100,000 seconds -1 .

[0252] According to this embodiment, in a mixer, the shear rate is said to be controlled and homogeneous, regardless of time, when it reaches a similar maximum value for all parts of the emulsion at a given instant, which may vary from one point in the emulsion to another. The exact configuration of the mixer is not essential according to the invention, provided that the entire emulsion has been subjected to the same maximum shear rate upon exiting the device. Mixers adapted to perform step b 7 ) are described in particular in document US 5,938,581.

[0253] According to this embodiment, during step b 7 ), the emulsion is introduced into the mixer and is then subjected to shear, resulting in the formation of an emulsion (E2"), which is chemically identical to (E2 7 ).

[0254] The difference between (E2 7 ) and (E2") is the drop size variance: the drops of (E2 7 ) are polydisperse in size while the (E2") drops are monodisperse, thanks to the fragmentation mechanism described above.

[0255] Preferably, according to this embodiment, the emulsion (E2 7 ) is introduced continuously into the mixer, which means that the quantity of emulsion (E2 7 ) introduced at the mixer inlet is the same as the quantity of emulsion (E2") at the mixer outlet.

[0256] According to another embodiment, step b 7) consists of applying a shear rate of less than 1000 s to the emulsion (E2) 1 This embodiment may be preferred for a viscosity of composition C3 greater than 200 mPa.s, preferably 2000 mPa.s, at 25°C and a shear of 10 s-1.

[0257] According to this embodiment, the fragmentation step b 7 ) can be carried out using any type of mixer commonly used to form emulsions with a shear rate of less than 1000 s-1. In particular, it can be operated under conditions such as those described in patent application FR 1661787.

[0258] According to this embodiment, in step b'), the emulsion consisting of polydisperse droplets dispersed in a continuous phase is subjected to shearing, for example in a mixer, at a low shear rate, namely less than 1000 s' 1 .

[0259] According to this embodiment, the shear rate applied in step b 7 ) is, for example, between 10 s -1 and 1,000 s' 1 .

[0260] Preferably, the shear rate applied in step b') is strictly less than 1000 s 1 .

[0261] According to this embodiment, the emulsion droplets can only be efficiently fragmented into fine, monodisperse droplets if a high shear stress is applied to them.

[0262] The shear stress s applied to an emulsion droplet is defined as the tangential force per unit droplet area resulting from the macroscopic shear applied to the emulsion during its agitation.

[0263] The shear stress σ (expressed in Pa), the viscosity of the C2 composition h (expressed in Pa·s) and the shear rate g (expressed in s⁻¹) -1) applied to the emulsion (E2') during its agitation in step b 7 ) are related by the following equation: s = hg.

[0264] Thus, according to this embodiment, the high viscosity of composition C3 allows a very high shear stress to be applied to the emulsion droplets in the mixer, even if the shear rate is low and the shear is inhomogeneous.

[0265] To implement step b 7 ) according to this embodiment, any type of agitator commonly used to form emulsions can be used, such as a mechanical paddle agitator, a static emulsifier, an ultrasonic homogenizer, a membrane homogenizer, a high-pressure homogenizer, a colloidal mill, a high-shear disperser or a high-speed homogenizer.

[0266] According to a preferred embodiment, a simple emulsifier such as a mechanical paddle mixer or a static emulsifier is used to carry out step b 7 ). Indeed, this is possible because this embodiment requires neither controlled shear nor shear greater than 1000 s' 1 .

[0267] Step c') of the process consists of the polymerization of the monomers contained in composition C2.

[0268] According to one embodiment, when composition C2 includes a photoinitiator, step c') is a photopolymerization step consisting of exposing the emulsion (E2") to a light source suitable for initiating the photopolymerization of composition C2, in particular to a UV light source emitting preferably in the wavelength range between 100 nm and 450 nm, and in particular for a duration of less than 15 minutes.

[0269] Step c 7The process is preferably implemented in such a way as to obtain a monomer conversion rate, by weight, greater than 90%, preferably 95%, for example greater than 99%. The operating conditions can be adapted for this purpose, in particular the quantities and / or types of photoinitiator and / or the wavelengths used.

[0270] According to this embodiment, step c 7 ) consists of subjecting the emulsion to photopolymerization, which will allow the photopolymerization of composition C2.

[0271] According to one embodiment, step c') consists of exposing the emulsion (E2") to a light source suitable for initiating the photopolymerization of composition C2.

[0272] Preferably, the light source is a UV light source.

[0273] According to one embodiment, the UV light source emits in the wavelength range between 100 nm and 450 nm.

[0274] According to one embodiment, the emulsion is exposed to a light source for a period of less than 15 minutes, and preferably for 5 to 10 minutes.

[0275] According to another embodiment, when composition C2 does not include a photoinitiator, step c 7 ) is a polymerization step, the duration of this polymerization step c') preferably being between 8 hours and 100 hours and / or this step c') is carried out at a temperature between 20°C and 80°C.

[0276] According to this embodiment, polymerization is initiated, for example, by exposure to heat (thermal initiation), or by simply bringing the monomers, polymers, and crosslinking agents into contact with each other, or with a catalyst. The polymerization time is then generally longer than several hours.

[0277] Preferably, step c') of polymerization of composition C2 is carried out for a duration of between 2 hours and 100 hours, at a temperature between 20°C and 80°C.

[0278] At the end of step c 7 ), we obtain microparticles, typically massive, dispersed in the C3 composition.

[0279] The process may include a step C) of washing and / or concentrating the microparticles. This step typically follows step c'). Thus, according to one embodiment, step c 7 ) is typically followed by a step of 7The washing process involves removing intermediate manufacturing compounds included in C3. This can be done by centrifugation and washing with water or another organic compound as a solvent to purify the microparticles and remove impurities, such as residual monomers. Examples of organic compounds include solvents such as methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, acetone, MEK, ethyl acetate, and THF. These steps are known to those skilled in the art. The washing process can be carried out in several stages to control the purity of the microparticles, for example, in a manner adapted to the application of the microparticles, particularly from a regulatory standpoint.Several washing and / or purification steps can be performed using an aqueous and / or organic solvent, for example, by resuspension and decantation, by successive cycles of dilution-resuspension-separation, by filtration (e.g., under vacuum, through a membrane, microfiltration / ultrafiltration, or tangential flow filtration), by centrifugation (batch or continuous), by gravity or assisted sedimentation, by column washing (fixed bed or fluidized bed), by co-current or counter-current washing, by dialysis, by liquid-liquid extraction, and / or by washing assisted by mechanical agitation, ultrasound, or any combination of these techniques. This allows for the dispersion of microparticles in an aqueous or organic phase, typically dispersed within such a phase. This can constitute a concentrated composition as described above.

[0280] According to one embodiment, step c') and / or step d 7) washing is followed by a step e') of concentration and / or drying, in order to obtain a concentrated composition, possibly in powder form. Such steps are known to those skilled in the art. Examples include fixed bed drying, tray / oven drying, vacuum drying, freeze-drying, spray drying, fluidized bed drying, flash / pneumatic drying, drum or belt drying, thin film drying (drop or wipe film), microwave or infrared drying, as well as processes using supercritical CO2.

[0281] In one embodiment, washing is carried out with ethanol and drying is achieved by atomizing a dispersion in water, ethanol, or a mixture. This embodiment makes it possible to obtain high purity, particularly with regard to the quantity of residual monomers such as monomer M2, as well as high distensibility in the cosmetic composition.

[0282] Also described are the microparticles that are obtained or are likely to be obtained by the process that has just been presented.

[0283] Based on their general knowledge, a person skilled in the art will be able to measure and evaluate the physicochemical and sensory characteristics of the composition using the methods at their disposal. Evaluation criteria may include blurring, matte finish, gloss, and stability of the composition.

[0284] The blurring properties of the cosmetic composition can be characterized by the haze index parameter. The haze index is defined here as the proportion of incident radiation that, after passing through the sample, is scattered relative to the total transmitted radiation.

[0285] A method for measuring the blur index can be a method described in the ATSM D1003 standard, or a method derived from that standard.

[0286] The effectiveness of fillers in blurring imperfections is evaluated in vitro by transmission spectrophotometric measurement of a thin film of the formula. For the measurement, the raw materials to be evaluated are first incorporated, preferably at a concentration of 5 to 10%, into a water-in-oil emulsion. A suitable water-in-oil emulsion for the Haze parameter method might, for example, comprise 5 to 10% bulk polymer particles, 60% aqueous phase (water + glycols), 5% stabilizer (BENTONE®), and an amount of oil to make up 100%. The formula is spread onto a transparent support. Spreading is carried out using an automated device (ERICHSEN®) and a BIRD®-type bar with a 30-micron gap. The film is dried under controlled conditions for 2 hours at 40°C.

[0287] Total transmission (Tt) and diffuse transmission (Td) measurements are performed with an integrating sphere spectrophotometer (COLOR 17800®, X-RITE®) after calibration with a white reference tile and a light trap.

[0288] The measurement range is from 400 nm to 700 nm. The results are integrated over this range. The haze value is calculated according to the following formula, in accordance with the aforementioned standard: Haze = 100 x (Td / Tt). The resulting haze value can range from 0 to 100.

[0289] Thus, according to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions of the invention have a Haze index value measured according to the method described above which is greater than 50, advantageously greater than 60, even more advantageously greater than 70 and particularly preferably greater than 80.

[0290] The chemical nature of the massive polymeric microparticles and their content in the composition are preferably chosen so that the cosmetic composition advantageously presents the desired Haze value, depending on the ingredients that constitute it.

[0291] The composition of the invention may include, in addition to the microparticles described above, at least one ingredient commonly used in cosmetics and known to those skilled in the art.

[0292] The cosmetically acceptable ingredient of the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from the group consisting of hydrophilic or hydrophobic film-forming polymers, lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents, dispersants and / or wetting agents, solid, liquid or pasty fats, powder binders, fillers and pigments, organic or mineral UV filters, antioxidants, surfactants, preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters and cosmetic active agents.

[0293] In particular, the cosmetically active ingredient(s) are chosen from the group consisting of:

[0294] - synthetic hydrophilic film-forming polymers selected from the group consisting of polyurethane polymers, acrylate polymers, and their mixtures,

[0295] - natural or naturally derived hydrophilic film-forming polymers selected from the group consisting of native or chemically modified polysaccharides,

[0296] - hydrophobic film-forming polymers,

[0297] - lipophilic gelling agents,

[0298] - hydrophilic gelling agents,

[0299] - Dispersants and / or wetting agents,

[0300] - Pasty compounds, - Waxes

[0301] - the oils chosen from the group consisting of:

[0302] i. vegetable oils,

[0303] ii. C10-C26 alcohol oils,

[0304] iii. Ester oils selected from the group consisting of tridecyltrimellilate, triglycerides, squalanes, and mixtures thereof

[0305] iv. linear or branched C9-C18 or C8-C16 alkanes, in particular linear alkanes having C9-C17, C10-C14, C9-C12, C12-C14 hydrocarbon chains and mixtures thereof,

[0306] v. and their mixtures,

[0307] - powder binders selected from ester oils, fatty or pasty compounds and mixtures thereof,

[0308] - the fillers chosen from the group consisting of cellulose powders, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, silica, borosilicates, lauroyl lysine powder fermented by Saccharomyces, alumina, boron nitride, zinc oxide, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, calcium silicate,

[0309] - pigments, minerals such as metallic oxides, in particular iron oxides - organic pigments, in particular chosen from D&C dyes and carmine-based cochineal lakes,

[0310] - and their mixtures.

[0311] Examples of oils include hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils.

[0312] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils. The proportion of silicone oil(s), when present, is preferably reduced.

[0313] According to a variant of this embodiment, each of the volatile and non-volatile oils used in the cosmetic product composition is selected from hydrocarbon oils. In this embodiment, the cosmetic composition is advantageously free of silicone oil(s).

[0314] According to one embodiment, the oils are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular linear or branched C8-C16 alkanes. The cosmetic composition may include at least one non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0315] Oils can be volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar, of natural (plant) or synthetic origin.

[0316] Examples of "polar oils" include alcohol oils and ester oils.

[0317] Among the "oil alcohols," one can cite in particular C10-C26 alcohols, more especially C10-C24, and preferably C12-C22, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, and more particularly monoalcohols. More specifically, C10-C26 alcohols are fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Examples of fatty alcohols that can be used according to the invention include linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or natural origin.

[0318] As particular examples of fatty alcohols that can be used as preferred, we can mention in particular lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.

[0319] Among the "ester oils," we can notably mention:

[0320] - hydroxylated esters, preferably having a total number of carbons from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;

[0321] - fatty acid esters, in particular those with 4 to 22 carbon atoms;

[0322] - synthetic esters such as oils with the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1+R2 is ≥16, such as isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, laurate of 2-hexyl-decyl, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate;

[0323] - linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbons ranging from 35 to 70; - aromatic acid and alcohol esters comprising 4 to 22 atoms;

[0324] - esters of fatty alcohols or C24-C28 branched fatty acids;

[0325] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) triglyceride by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, possibly unsaturated;

[0326] - and their mixtures.

[0327] Examples of "nonpolar oils" include linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0328] Examples of "vegetable oils" include deodorized high oleic sunflower oil, virgin sweet almond oil, virgin rosehip oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, camelina oil, jojoba oil, borage oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, nigella oil, pumpkin seed oil, perilla oil, castor oil and their mixtures.

[0329] We can also mention "linear or branched C8-C16 alkanes", in particular:

[0330] - C8-C16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR® or PERMETHYL®,

[0331] - linear or branched alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in:

[0332] - C9-C17, C10-C14, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Creations under the name CETIOL®,

[0333] - C15-C19, such as those marketed by Seppic under the name EMOGREEN®, - C9-C12, C12-C14, such as those marketed by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT®,

[0334] - n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL® respectively,

[0335] - and their mixtures.

[0336] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises at least one oil, of which at least one linear or branched alkane.

[0337] According to a first variant of this embodiment, the set of oils contained in the composition includes at least one linear or branched alkane, and possibly one or more additional hydrocarbon oils.

[0338] According to a second variant of this embodiment of the invention, the set of oils contained in the composition includes at least one linear or branched alkane and may further include at least one silicone oil.

[0339] As non-exhaustive examples of silicone oils, we can thus cite

[0340] - linear silicone oils (non-phenylated) in particular polyalkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (Non INCI: Dimethicone); Polydimethylsiloxanes containing at least one alkyl or alkoxy group, at C2-24, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, such as caprylyl methicone, methyl tris(trimethylsiloxy)silane (INCI: methyl trimethicone), hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane; phenylated silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone; phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicates, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicones.

[0341] - cyclic silicone oils such as hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

[0342] - as well as mixtures of these different oils.

[0343] The total oil content, when present, may range from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A person skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the nature of the oils used and the desired effect.

[0344] The composition may further advantageously include at least one film-forming agent, preferably a film-forming polymer.

[0345] A "film-forming polymer" is defined as a polymer capable of forming, either alone or in the presence of a film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a substrate, particularly skin. In this text, the term "polymer" may refer to a homopolymer or a copolymer. A "copolymer" is defined as a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may belong to the same chemical family but have different structures.

[0346] Film-forming agents have the ability to create a film on the skin's surface upon application, improving wear over time and resistance to sebum, perspiration, and mechanical stresses, particularly those related to facial movements. The formation of this film enhances and prolongs the product's staying power, thus enhancing its effect and giving it a "non-transfer" property.

[0347] Compositions according to the invention comprising at least one such film-forming agent are said to be "long-lasting" and / or "non-transfer".

[0348] These film-forming agents can be solubilized in a liquid phase according to their affinity or dispersed as particles or latex in a phase in which they are insoluble.

[0349] These film-forming agents are advantageously polymers which can be hydrophilic in nature and thus have an affinity for the aqueous phase, or hydrophobic in nature and have an affinity for the optional oily phase of the composition.

[0350] Examples of synthetic hydrophilic film-forming polymers include: - polyurethane polymers and their derivatives, and more particularly aqueous polyurethane dispersions which may have a solids (dry matter) content of 20% to 60% by weight, in particular polyurethane-35, polyalkylenes, such as a polyisoprene;

[0351] - acrylic film-forming polymers, selected in particular from:

[0352] (Meth)acrylate copolymers, advantageously copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one C1-C8 alkyl acrylate monomer, preferably C2, and at least one C1-C8 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably Cl,

[0353] - styrene / (meth)acrylate copolymers, and in particular copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrenic monomer and at least one (meth)acrylate monomer,

[0354] and their mixtures.

[0355] Examples of aqueous polyurethane dispersions include Polyurethane-34 and Polyurethane-35, sold under the trade name BAYCUSAN®. Examples of acrylate copolymers usable according to the invention include those selected from the group consisting of ammonium acrylate copolymers, ethyl acrylate copolymers, ethyl hexyl acrylate / acrylate copolymers, octyl acrylate / acrylate copolymers, alkyl(meth)acrylate copolymers, C12-C22 alkyl methacrylate / acrylate copolymers, methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymers, methacrylic acid / t-butyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate copolymers, and polyacrylates such as polyacrylate-21 and polyacrylate-15.

[0356] As aqueous dispersions of acrylate copolymers such as products sold under the trade names DAITOSOL® or SYNTRAN®.

[0357] Examples of naturally occurring hydrophilic film-forming polymers include native or chemically modified polysaccharides, such as chitosan and its derivatives, pullulan or one of its derivatives, starches or one of its derivatives such as hydroxypropyl starch, cellulose or one of its derivatives and mixtures thereof.

[0358] Examples of hydrophobic film-forming polymers include:

[0359] - silicone polymers, in particular silicone acrylate polymers without a dendrimer motif such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers, such as acrylate / dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone, acrylate / dimethicone copolymers; or with a dendrimer motif, such as acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, more generally marketed under the names KP® by ShinEtsu or FA® by Dow Corning, - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / styrene copolymers,

[0360] - Liposoluble copolymers of a vinyl ester, and preferably the copolymers vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, vinyl dimethyl-2,2-octanoate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / stearate vinyl,

[0361] - Polyolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of alkenes comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,

[0362] - alkylcelluloses, and preferably alkylcelluloses bearing an alkyl group comprising 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,

[0363] - hydrophobic polysaccharides such as hydrophobic pullulan derivatives or such as myristoyl pullulan, stearyl pullulan or lauryl pullulan, hydrophobic chitosan derivatives such as myristoyl chitosan, lauryl chitosan or stearyl chitosan, and

[0364] - their mixtures. The set of film-forming polymers contained in the composition preferably includes at least one hydrocarbon film-forming polymer. In this case, the set of film-forming polymers that make up the composition may consist of hydrocarbon film-forming polymers, or of at least one hydrocarbon film-forming polymer and at least one silicone film-forming polymer.

[0365] Thus, according to a particular method, hydrophobic film-forming polymers are chosen from the group consisting of: silicone polymers, in particular silicone acrylate polymers with or without dendrimer motifs, vinyl pyrrolidone and alkene copolymers comprising 2 to 20 carbon atoms, liposoluble copolymers of a vinyl ester, polyolefins, alkylcelluloses, crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, fatty acid and dextrin esters, non-silicone resins, preferably rosinate and candelilla resin, and mixtures thereof.

[0366] The total content of film-forming polymer(s), when present, may range from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the nature of the polymer and the desired effect.

[0367] Examples of "hydrophilic gelling agents" include acrylic acid polymers such as the commercially available CARBOPOL®, acrylic and methacrylic acid copolymers, carboxyvinyl polymers such as those sold under the name ARISTOFLEX®; hyaluronic acids and their salts, polysaccharide gelling agents such as alginates, natural or modified gums such as xanthan gum, carrageenan gum, agar gum, guar gum, gellan gum, chitosans, mannans, cellulose derivatives, gelatin, pectins, pullulan, polysaccharides extracted from algae, and mixtures thereof.

[0368] In a particular manner, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) are chosen from the group consisting of sodium hyaluronate, polysaccharides extracted from an alga and mixtures thereof.

[0369] As lipophilic gelling agents, we can mention in particular clays possibly modified such as modified hectorites (BENTONE®), fumed silica possibly treated hydrophobically on the surface (e.g. silica silylate, Silica dimethyl silylate...), crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, such as those obtained by reaction of a (poly)isocyanate with a polyester prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as those under the name GRANSENSE® by Grant Industries, ethylcellulose or ethylcellulose polymer; galactomannans, sequenced copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-propylene, polystyrene / copoly(ethylene-butylene), triblock copolymer butylene / ethylene / styrene, polyacrylates;esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s) such as dextrin palmitate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, and mixtures thereof, notably marketed by ChibaFlour Milling Co; esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), in particular glycerol behenic acid ester (such as the NOMCORT® product from KOBO); polyamides; ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides, polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides, or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides); a diisocyanate-urethane isophorone polymer derived from castor oil; hydroxystearic acid, sorbitan oleate, glutamides, and mixtures thereof;

[0370] In a particular manner, the lipophilic gelling agent(s) are chosen from the group consisting of: polyamides, ester-terminated polyamides, tertiary amide-terminated polyamides or polyalkyleneoxy-terminated polyamides or ester-terminated poly(ester-amides), preferably an ester-terminated polyamide and / or an ester-terminated poly(ester-amide) such as the products marketed under the names UNICLEAR® or OLEOCRAFT®;glycerol and fatty acid esters, hydroxystearic acid, sorbitan oleate, glutamides, dextrin and fatty acid(s) esters, castor oil-derived isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer and mixtures thereof, and preferably selected from the group consisting of: polyamides, glycerol and behenic acid esters, hydroxystearic acid, sorbitan oleate, glutamides such as Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide (AJK®) from Ajinomoto; dextrin palmitate, castor oil-derived isophorone diisocyanate-urethane polymer, and mixtures thereof;

[0371] The total gelling agent content will generally range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A person skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the type of gelling agent and the desired effect.

[0372] In a particular manner, the dispersant(s) and / or wetting agent(s) are chosen from the group consisting of: citrol glyceryl ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3-Diisostearate, polyhydroxystearic acid, lecithin, and mixtures thereof.

[0373] The total content of dispersants and / or wetting agents, when present, may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the nature of the dispersant and the desired effect.

[0374] According to the invention, "fatty substance" means a solid compound or a compound comprising a solid fraction at 25°C. Examples include butters, waxes, pastes, and mixtures thereof.

[0375] By "pasty fat" we mean a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0376] Fats can be of animal, vegetable, mineral, or synthetic origin. Depending on the specific method used, bio-based fats will be employed.

[0377] Examples of "butters" include Murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, and cupuaçu butter, and mixtures thereof. Examples of "pasty fats" include fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic triglyceride; esters of polyol(s) and diacid dimers of fatty acids, or of one of its esters; esters of polyglycerol and fatty acids; jojoba esters; olive unsaponifiables; shea unsaponifiables; hydrogenated castor oil esters; oligomeric glycerol esters, including diglycerol esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0378] In a particular way, we will mention diol and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their free alcohol or acid function(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dilinoleate dimer esters, such as those with the following INCI nomenclature:

[0379] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dimer dilinoleate copolymer (HAILUCENT® from Estenity);

[0380] - bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate or phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (PLANDOOL®),

[0381] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (LUSIPLAN® from Unipex),

[0382] - and their mixtures.

[0383] In a specific manner, the said pasty compound(s) are chosen from the group consisting of:

[0384] - diol and diacid dimer esters, where applicable, esterified on their alcohol or free acid function(s) by acid radicals or alcohols, in particular dilinoleate dimer esters,

[0385] - natural butters, preferably chosen from the group consisting of: murumuru butter, mango butter, shea butter, cocoa butter, cupuaçu butter and their mixtures,

[0386] - polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables, and mixtures thereof,

[0387] - and their mixtures.

[0388] Preferably, the said pasty compound(s) are chosen from the group consisting of:

[0389] - dimer dilinoleate esters, in particular those selected from the group consisting of:

[0390] - polyglyceryl-2 isostearate / dilinoleate dimer copolymer,

[0391] - bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate,

[0392] - dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate,

[0393] - hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate,

[0394] - Shea butter,

[0395] - polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, jojoba esters, olive unsaponifiables, shea unsaponifiables,

[0396] - and mixtures thereof. The total content of fats and pastes, when present, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. A person skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the nature of the fat or paste and the desired effect.

[0397] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change of state and a melting point above 30°C, preferably above 45°C.

[0398] Examples include natural waxes such as beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax, sunflower wax, olive wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, berry wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, lanolin and its derivatives (alcohols, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated), kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, shellac wax, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, waxes derived from hydrogenated castor oil, polyethylene, ozokerite, products comprising a mixture of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, and silicone waxes such as C20-24 alkyl dimethicone or C24-28 alkyl dimethicone, C20-C40 alkyl stearates,Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 chains such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with a fatty alcohol, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis, and mixtures thereof.

[0399] In a particular embodiment, the wax or waxes that make up the cosmetic product of the invention comprise at least one hydrocarbon wax. The composition of all waxes may be free of silicone wax(s).

[0400] The total wax content, when present, may range from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A person skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the nature of the fat or paste and the desired effect.

[0401] Powder binders (fillers, pigments) are chosen in particular from ester oils, fatty or pasty compounds and their mixtures.

[0402] We can cite in particular the following INCI name compounds: Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, Isostearyl neopenta noate, Isostearate isostearyl, Ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, Diisostearyl malate, Pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, Jojoba esters, Dicaprylyl ether, Polybutene, Squalane, Isononyl isononanoate, ethylene / propylene copolymer, butylene / ethylene / styrene copolymer (VERSAGEL®), Ethylhexyl isononanoate, Peg-6 caprylic / capric glycerides (TEGOSOFT®), Dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (LUSPLAN®), Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, Hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate (RISOCAST®), Caprylic / capric triglyceride (MIGLYOL®), Polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, and mixtures thereof. The total content of powder binders may, when present, range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.A person skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the nature of the binders and the desired effect.

[0403] The term "fillers" refers to microparticles of any shape, including platelets, spherical or oblong shapes, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic origin, which are insoluble and dispersed throughout the composition. These fillers are used, in particular, to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to provide a mattifying effect.

[0404] The "fillers" may or may not be surface coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

[0405] The "fillers" are chosen in particular from among silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; cellulose powders; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; boron nitride; bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, calcium silicate; lauroyl lysine powder fermented by Saccharomyces such as the product GRANPOWDER®; lauroyl lysine; clays; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (e.g. nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid (PMMA) powders; silicone resin powders (INCI name polymethylsilsesquioxane); polyurethane and silica powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; hydrophobic silica aerogel powders; glass and ceramic beads;borosilicates such as the commercial references RONAFLAKE®; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as starch powders such as corn starch, wheat starch, rice starch, cross-linked or not, powders of vegetable origin, such as rice powder, cotton powder, silk powder, and their mixtures.;

[0406] According to a particular method, the fillers are chosen from the group consisting of cellulose powders, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, borosilicates, lauroyl lysine powder fermented by saccharomyces, alumina, boron nitride, zinc oxide, kaolin, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate, calcium silicate, and mixtures thereof.

[0407] In a particular embodiment, all the fillers contained in the composition may be devoid of silicone filler(s).

[0408] The total content of fillers, when present, may range from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the nature of the fillers and the desired effect. "Pigments" are defined as white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, insoluble in the aqueous phase in which they are dispersed, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the deposit made with the composition. Examples include mineral pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (i.e., pigments based on mineral and / or organic materials).

[0409] Examples of "mineral pigments" include black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxides; ferric blue; carbon black; and mixtures thereof.

[0410] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises less than 2% titanium dioxide, or even less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or is devoid of titanium dioxide.

[0411] Among the "organic pigments", we can cite in particular the lakes obtained from dyes such as the dyes D& C Black No. 2, FD& C Blue No. 1, FD& C Green No. 3, D& C Green No. 5, D& C Orange No. 4, D& C Orange No. 5, D& C orange No. 10, D& C No. red 3, D& C Red No. 6, D& C Red No. 7, D& C red No. 9, D& C red No. 13, D& C red No. 19, D& C Red No. 21, D& C Red No. 22, D& C Red No. 27, D& C Red No. 28, D& C Red No. 30, D& C Red No. 33, D& C Red No. 36, FD& C Red No. 40, FD& C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6, D&C Yellow No. 10 carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lacquers.

[0412] Pearlescent pigments are chosen, for example, from mica coated with titanium oxide, mica-titanium coated with iron oxide, mica-titanium coated with ferric blue, mica-titanium coated with chromium oxide, or tin oxide; mica-titanium coated with an organic pigment as described above, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0413] According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises organic pigments, in particular selected from D&C dyes and cochineal carmine-based lakes, as mentioned above.

[0414] The total pigment content, when present, may range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A person skilled in the art will adjust the content according to the texture of the composition (whether powder or liquid), the nature of the pigments, and the desired effect.

[0415] The fillers and pigments may advantageously be surface-treated with a hydrophilic or lipophilic organic agent to facilitate their incorporation into one or another phase of the composition. These organic agents may be chosen from among amino acids; waxes; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, cellulose and its derivatives; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; silicone compounds, for example silicones, polydimethylsiloxanes, alkoxysilanes, alkylsilanes, siloxysilicates; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluorosilicone compounds.

[0416] Microparticles can be used to protect, deliver, and / or control the release of active cosmetic compounds. These active compounds are, for example, impregnated within the bulk microparticles or coated onto them. Microparticles can deliver cosmetically active compounds, which are distributed throughout the microparticle mass or coated onto the bulk microparticles. The active compounds can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic, volatile or non-volatile.

[0417] The cosmetic active ingredient is preferably chosen from among emollients, moisturizing agents, vitamins, anti-aging agents, brightening agents, smoothing agents, anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidant agents, free radical scavengers, sunscreens, and agents that repair the destructive effects of ultraviolet rays.

[0418] The composition of the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight of a silicone elastomer. In particular, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight of a silicone elastomer; it is preferably free of it.

[0419] The composition of the invention preferably comprises less than 5% by weight of silicone compound(s). In particular, the composition may comprise less than 1% by weight of silicone compound(s): it may advantageously be free of them.

[0420] The composition of the invention may have a solid, fluid or paste consistency. It may be in the form of a lotion, a dispersion, a gel, a water-in-oil emulsion (an emulsion of an aqueous phase as described above dispersed in a phase containing fatty substances as described above), an oil-in-water emulsion (an emulsion of a phase containing fatty substances as described above dispersed in an aqueous phase as described above), a multiple emulsion, an anhydrous composition (prepared according to a process not comprising a step of adding water), a compact powder, a loose powder, a solid composition such as a stick, or a product poured into a cup such as a balm.

[0421] The composition of the invention serves as a care and / or makeup product for keratinous materials, in particular as makeup and / or skin and / or lip care products.

[0422] Examples of skincare products include creams or serums for the face and / or neck.

[0423] Examples of lip care products include lip balm. Examples of skin makeup products include foundation, primer, powder, concealer, eyeshadow, and blush. The composition can also be used as a sunscreen and advantageously includes at least one UV filter, preferably selected from organic UV filters, mineral UV filters, and mixtures thereof.

[0424] The term "organic UV filter" refers to any organic compound that absorbs ultraviolet (UV) radiation in the wavelength range of 280 nm to 400 nm. Organic UV filters are hydrophilic or lipid-soluble depending on whether they are solubilized or dispersed in colloidal or micellar form in the aqueous or oily phase of the composition of the invention.

[0425] Examples of hydrophilic organic UV filters include camphor derivatives such as terephthalylidene dicamphosulfonic acid, 3-(4'-sulfobenzylidene) camphor, para-aminobenzoic acid and its derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, triethanolamine salicylate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, 3-(4'-trimethylammonium benzylidene)-l-bornan-2-one methyl sulfate, and sulfonated benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-4.

[0426] Examples of liposoluble UV filters include para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, salicylic derivatives such as ethylhexyl salicylate, cinnamic derivatives such as octocrylene, aminobenzophenones, anthranilic derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, [beta],[beta]'-diphenylacrylate derivatives, benzylidene camphor derivatives, phenyl benzotriazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, bis-resorcinyl triazine, imidazoline derivatives, benzalmalonate derivatives, 4,4-diarylbutadiene derivatives, benzoxazole derivatives, merocyanins and mixtures thereof.

[0427] Mineral UV filters are metallic oxide particles, in particular chosen from titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium oxides or mixtures thereof, preferably having an average elementary particle size less than or equal to 0.5 pm, more preferably between 0.1 and 0.5 pm, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 0.3 pm, or even 0.1 to 0.2 pm.

[0428] These organic or mineral filters (and their quantities) are selected in particular according to the desired sun protection factor (SPF), which is defined as the ratio between the amount of energy required to produce minimal erythema on skin protected by a sunscreen and the amount of energy required to produce the same level of erythema on unprotected skin.

[0429] In the case of sun care formulations, these can include, for example, a cream, lotion, oil, lip balm, or self-tanner, specifically a face and / or body sunscreen, face and / or body sunscreen, sun oil, after-sun lotion, after-sun balm, self-tanner, or after-sun oil. The protective composition is thus adapted for application before or after sun exposure. A professional will know how to choose the quantity of microparticles to include in the formulation based on the desired cosmetic effect, such as the perceived texture and finish on the skin, both tactile and visual.

[0430] Examples of lip makeup compositions include lipstick in stick form, lip liner, lip lacquer, lip balm, and lip gloss. Depending on the specific formulation, the lip product may be anhydrous solid, an emulsion, or fluid. Lipstick may be anhydrous stick containing between 0.5% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, ideally between 1% and 7% by weight, and preferably between 2% and 5% by weight of microparticles relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0431] In another specific formulation, the product is an emulsion foundation, and more particularly a water-in-oil emulsion foundation, a loose or pressed powder foundation, or a complexion perfecting product. In these products, the microparticle content is advantageously between 0.5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 1% and 15% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 12% by weight.

[0432] Microparticles are used for the formulation of a cosmetic product according to a step-by-step manufacturing process involving a mixture of microparticles with at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient.

[0433] A process for preparing the cosmetic composition described above may include a step of supplying the microparticles in the form of a concentrated solid or liquid composition, followed by an optional step of dispersing the microparticles in a fluid such as an oil or solvent, and a step of mixing the concentrated composition or dispersion with at least one other cosmetic ingredient.

[0434] Thus, the weight concentration of microparticles in the cosmetic composition is generally lower than the weight concentration of microparticles in the concentrated composition, for example, one directly derived from the microparticle synthesis process as described above. The weight concentration of microparticles may, in particular, be less than 30%, 20%, 10%, or 5% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. It may be greater than 0.1% or greater than 1% by weight. In one particular embodiment, the weight concentration of microparticles is between 2% and 12% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0435] The cosmetic composition of the invention can be prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0436] According to one embodiment, the microparticles present in the composition according to the invention are first dispersed in a liquid, such as an oil, a solvent, or a mixture thereof. The microparticles are then incorporated into the cosmetic composition and mixed with the other ingredients in a pre-dispersed form, in particular as a homogeneous mixture of dispersed microparticles. Thus, the preparation process of the invention may utilize a raw material used as a formulation ingredient, or comprise a step of preparing a mixture of (i) 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 30% by weight, of polymeric microparticles as defined above, relative to the total weight of the mixture, and (ii) 60% to 90% by weight, preferably 70% to 85% by weight, of at least one liquid relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0437] According to one embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprising microparticles of the polymer as described above includes an alkane oil, and a process for preparing this cosmetic composition preferably includes a step of dispersing the microparticles in this alkane oil, before bringing the microparticles into contact with the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition.

[0438] Another object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, in particular of the skin and / or lips, comprising the application, on said keratinous materials, of a cosmetic composition described above.

[0439] In one embodiment, the application step on at least one part of the body and / or face is carried out on at least one area of ​​skin, in particular of the face and / or décolleté, showing signs of aging or fatigue such as loss of firmness, loss of elasticity, or sagging skin, to obtain an effect chosen from a smoothing effect, a tightening effect, a skin-bouncing effect, or a combination of one of these effects.

[0440] When the cosmetic composition is applied directly to the skin, after application and gradual evaporation of the solvents in the composition, it forms a deposit that is particularly well-suited for makeup application. Furthermore, this type of texture possesses beneficial properties both aesthetically and in terms of user comfort.

[0441] The skin care and makeup process may include the topical application to the relevant areas of skin of an effective amount of a cosmetic composition according to the invention as defined above, to obtain at least one of the following effects:

[0442] - a pleasant sensory experience upon application, which can be described as forming a soft and supple film to the touch,

[0443] - a matte, powdery and / or blurring visual effect,

[0444] - a smoothing effect facilitating even application of the product,

[0445] - an appropriate time during which the product can be spread and worked on the skin (“play time” in English).

[0446] The skincare and makeup process allows the consumer to experience a product with a pleasant texture due to its elasticity, the cushioning effect it provides, and its lack of stickiness on the fingers. Once applied to the skin, the cosmetic composition can advantageously provide a pleasant sensory experience, including softness, the perception of a smooth finish, the perception of a non-sticky feel, and the sensation of bare skin.

[0447] Finally, the skincare and makeup process according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good optical properties allowing the visual perceptions of the skin or lips on which the composition is applied to be modulated, such as matteness, shine, uniformity of complexion, relief, color and imperfections.

[0448] For example, the cosmetic compositions of the invention have properties equivalent to, or even superior to, those of the complexion-perfecting products of the prior art.

[0449] This description encompasses the following items:

[0450] 1. Cosmetic composition comprising bulk polymeric microparticles based on a polymer comprising units corresponding to a first monomer Ml multi(meth)acrylate, as well as additional units selected from:

[0451] - the units corresponding to a second monofunctional M2 monomer comprising at least one caprolactone group and a single (meth)acrylate group, and

[0452] - mixtures of units corresponding to a third monofunctional monomer M3 selected from C12-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and of units corresponding to a fourth multifunctional monomer M4, different from the first monomer M1, comprising at least two urethane groups and at least two (meth)acrylate groups,

[0453] said cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from said polymeric microparticles.

[0454] 2. Cosmetic composition conforming to object 1 such that the monomer Ml is selected from diol-di(meth)acrylates, for which the diol is an aliphatic alpha, omega-diol in C2-C12.

[0455] 3. Cosmetic composition conforming to object 1 or object 2 such that the monomer M2 has the formula (I):

[0456] CH2=CR 1 (COO-R 2 O-[-CO-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-O-] x -H) (I)

[0457] in which

[0458] - R 1 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0459] - R 2 is a linear or C1-C6 branched alkylene group, and

[0460] - x is a real number between 1 and 10.

[0461] 4. Cosmetic composition conforming to one of the objects 1 to 3 such that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to formula (III)

[0462] CH2=CR 3 -CO-OR 4 -O-CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2(III) in which

[0463] - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0464] - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group at C1-C6, preferably an ethyl group, -R 5is a linear or branched C6-C12 aliphatic group or an alicyclic group or an aromatic group.5. Cosmetic composition conforming to one of the objects 1 to 3 such that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to formula (IV)

[0465] CH2=CR 3 -CO-OR 4 -O-[CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 6 -O] y -R 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2(IV) in which

[0466] - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0467] - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C1-C6,

[0468] - R 5 and R 6 are linear or branched C6-C12 aliphatic groups, or alicyclic groups, or aromatic groups,

[0469] - y is a real number between 1 and 10.

[0470] 6. Cosmetic composition conforming to one of the objects 1 to 3 such that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to formula (V)

[0471] R 8 (R 7 -O-CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2)n (V)

[0472] in which

[0473] - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0474] - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C1-C6,

[0475] - R 5 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C6-C12 or an alicyclic group or an aromatic group

[0476] - R 7 is a linear or branched divalent aliphatic group in Cl-ClO that may contain ether, carbonyl, ester or amine functions,

[0477] - R 8 is an n-valent group,

[0478] - n is a real number between 3 and 10.

[0479] 7. Cosmetic composition conforming to one of the objects 1 to 3 such that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to formula (VI)

[0480] R 8 (R 7 - O[CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 6 -O]yR 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2) n (VI)

[0481] in which

[0482] - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,

[0483] - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C1-C6,

[0484] - R 5 and R 6 are linear or branched C6-C12 aliphatic groups, or alicyclic groups, or aromatic groups,

[0485] - R 7 is a linear or branched divalent aliphatic group in Cl-ClO that may contain ether, carbonyl, ester or amine functions,

[0486] - R 8 is an n-valent group,

[0487] - n is a real number between 3 and 10,

[0488] - y is a real number between 1 and 10.

[0489] 8. Use of polymeric microparticles based on a polymer comprising units corresponding to a first monomer Ml multi(meth)acrylate, as well as additional units selected from:

[0490] - the units corresponding to a second monofunctional M2 monomer comprising at least one caprolactone group and a single (meth)acrylate group, and

[0491] - mixtures of units corresponding to a third monofunctional monomer M3 chosen from among the C12-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and of units corresponding to a fourth multifunctional monomer M4, different from the first monomer M1, comprising at least two urethane groups and at least two (meth)acrylate groups,

[0492] in a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin or lips, to obtain a cosmetic effect chosen from the group consisting of an optical blurring effect, a gliding sensation upon application, and a feeling of softness after application.

[0493] 9. A method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin and / or lips comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, to said keratinous materials.

[0494] In addition to the foregoing description, the invention will be further illustrated by the following non-limiting examples relating to the preparation and evaluation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention and of cosmetic compositions of the prior art.

[0495] Examples of cosmetic product formulations such as emulsion foundations, lipsticks, face powder, eyeshadow and skincare cream are given below.

[0496] The ingredients and their mass percentages, expressed relative to the total mass of ingredients used, are presented in the following tables. The ingredient names correspond, as applicable, to the chemical name, the INCI name, or the ingredient's function. Their brand name may also be specified.

[0497] Unless otherwise stated, the temperature is between 20°C and 25°C, the pressure is atmospheric pressure.

[0498] In the absence of a description, the compositions are prepared according to the classic formulation methods in the cosmetic field.

[0499] Example 1: Synthesis of polymer microparticles for the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention

[0500] Polymer microparticles are prepared according to the process described below using different monomers M1, M2, M3 and M4. The chemical nature and mass percentage proportions of the reactants distributed in a pre-composition C2 and a pre-composition C3, as well as the particle size of the microparticles obtained, have been specified in the tables below.

[0501] Process for synthesizing polymeric microparticles

[0502] In a first step, the components of a pre-composition C2 are mixed together. In a second step, pre-composition C2 is added to pre-composition C3 until a ratio of C2:C3 = 10:90 is reached, then it is mixed for 1 minute at 2000 rpm allowing the formation of a monodisperse C2-in-C3 emulsion.

[0503] In a third step, the C2-in-C3 monodisperse emulsion is passed through a UV chamber to polymerize the droplets of the pre-composition C2 by photopolymerization at a wavelength between 360 nm and 450 nm for a duration between 15 and 240 seconds, enabling the formation of microparticles from the photopolymerization of the pre-composition C2.

[0504] In a fourth step, the microparticles obtained by photopolymerization of precomponent C2 are extracted from the continuous phase C3 by centrifugation and washed in distilled water in which the continuous phase is soluble, purified with ethanol, and then dried either at room temperature ("Process 1", unless otherwise specified) or by spray drying in ethanol ("Process 2", if specified). The resulting product is then ground to obtain a white powder containing approximately 100% microparticles by weight.

[0505] Measurement of microparticle size distribution:

[0506] The microparticles in powder form are dispersed before measurement. In a 50 mL Eppendorf tube, a mixture is prepared by combining the powder and a surfactant in a 1:1 ratio. The surfactant used could be, for example, Kophanios® surfactant, available from Laboratoire Anios. The mixture is subjected to ultrasound using a probe. The amplitude of the ultrasound probe is set at 35% with 3 cycles.

[0507] The particle size distribution is then analyzed on a Mastersizer® 3000 device.

[0508] The volumetric dimensions are reported in the tables below: the cumulative volume distribution of microparticle size is measured and then expressed as a cumulative percentage by volume. Dv10 corresponds to the maximum value of 10% by volume of the microparticle sample volume; Dv50 corresponds to the maximum value of 50% by volume of the microparticle sample volume; and Dv90 corresponds to the maximum value of 90% by volume of the microparticle sample volume. Example 1. A of a polymeric microparticle

[0509] [Table 1]

[0510] Raw materials 1 Mass percentages i Pre-composition C2 Monomer M2 of formula (II) j 94.5% i Monomer Ml Hexanediol diacryl 5.0% i (HDDA) | I Ethyl phenyl(2,4,6~ 0.5% ] trimethylbenzoylphosphinate | (Photoinitiator) |

[0511] TOTAL pre-composition C2 | 100% i Pre-composition C3 Sodium sulfite lignosulfonate 1 0.02% i Associative thickening agent i 0.15% | Newtonian i Catooxymethyl Cellulose! 6% i Water 93.83% i TOTAL pre-composition C3 j 100% i Polymerization by 30 s - 405 nm j I UV

[0512] Time - length

[0513] wave

[0514] Particle size distribution (pm) DvlO: 2.15 i Dv50: 3.72 i

[0515]

[0516] Dv90: 6.71 ii

[0517] Example l. B of polymeric microparticles

[0518] [Table 2]

[0519] Raw materials

[0520] Pre-compound C2 Monomer M3 Stearyl Acrylate

[0521] iMonomer Ml Decanediol 20%

[0522] _

[0523] iMonomer M4 of formula (VH) 10% iEthyi phenyl (2,4,6- 0.5% itrimetoylbenzoy; Jphosphinate

[0524] (iCPhotoinltiateur)

[0525] TOTAL pre-composition C2 100% iPre-composition C3 Associative thickening agent p.2%

[0526] Inewtonian

[0527] iSodium sulfite iignosulfate

[0528] [Carboxymethyl Cellulose]

[0529] iËau

[0530] TOTAL pre-compounding C3 10024; UV polymerization seconds - 405 nm

[0531] Time - length

[0532] wave

[0533] DvlO: 2.9

[0534] Dv50: 4.5

[0535]

[0536] Dv90: 6.9 Example l. C of polymeric microparticle

[0537] [Table 3]

[0538] Raw materials Percentages

[0539] mass

[0540] Pre-composition C2 Monomer M2 of formula (II) 94.5%

[0541] Monomer Mi Hexanediol diacryiate 5.0%

[0542] (HDDA)

[0543] Ethyl phenyi(2,4,6- 0.5% trime&ylbenzoyi)phephinate

[0544] (Photoinitiator)

[0545] TOTAL pre-composition 02 100%

[0546] Pre-composition C3 Sodium sulfite iignosulfonate 0.01%

[0547] Association thickening agent 0.15%

[0548] Newtonian

[0549] Carboxymethyl Cellulose 6%

[0550] Water 93.83%

[0551] TOTAL pre-composition C3 100% Poiymensation per 30 $ - 405 nm

[0552] UV

[0553] Time - length

[0554] wave

[0555] Granuiometria (pm) DvïÔ: 2.Ï5

[0556] DvSO; 3.72

[0557]

[0558] Dv90: 6.71

[0559] Example l. D of polymeric microparticles

[0560] [Table 4]

[0561] Raw materials Mass percentages

[0562] Pre-cotiipositlon C2 Monomer M3 Stearyl Acrylate 47%

[0563] Monomer M1 Decanediol 47.5% Dimethacrylate _

[0564] Monomer M4 of formula (VH) 10%

[0565] Ethyl phenylCl- 0.5%

[0566] UlmethylbenzoyQphosphinate

[0567] i (Phntinitiator)

[0568] TOTAL pre-composition C2 100% Pre-composition C3 Associative thickening agent 0.2%

[0569] Newtonian

[0570] Sodium sulfite lignosulfonate 0.01% Carboxymethyl Cellulose 5%

[0571] Water 94.79%

[0572] TOTAL pre-composition C3 % UV polymerization 30 seconds - 405 nm

[0573] Time - length

[0574] wave

[0575] Particle size (ym) DvlO: 2.2

[0576] DvSO: 5.5

[0577]

[0578] Dv90: 11.9 Example l. E of polymeric microparticle

[0579] [Table 5]

[0580] Raw materials Mass percentages M-composition C2 Monomer M3 Stearyl Acrylate 59.5%

[0581] Monomer M1 Decanediol 30% Dimethacrylate

[0582] Monomer M4 of formula (VH) 10%

[0583] Ethyl phenyl(2,4,6-0.5% trimethylbenzoyl)phosphinate

[0584] (Photoinifier)

[0585] TOTAL pre-composition C2 100% Pre-composition C3 Associative thickening agent 0.2%

[0586] Newtonian

[0587] Sodium sulfite lignosulfonate 0.01% Carboxymethyl Cellulose 5%

[0588] Water 94.79%

[0589] TOTAL pre-composition C3 100% UV polymerization 30 seconds - 405 nm

[0590] Time - length

[0591] wave

[0592] Particle size (pm) DvlO: 2.1

[0593] DvSO: 4.7

[0594]

[0595] Dv90: 10

[0596] Example l. F of polymeric microparticle

[0597] [Table 6]

[0598] Raw materials | Percentages

[0599] I mass

[0600] Monomer M2 of formula (VII) 94.5% composition C2 Monomer Ml Dipentaerythntol

[0601] Hexaacrylate _

[0602] Ethyl phenyl(2,4,6- 0.5% tnmethylbenzoyl)phosphinate

[0603] (Photoinitiator)

[0604] TOTAL pre-composition pre-composition C2 100%

[0605] Sodium sulfite lignosulfonate

[0606] Composition C3: Associative thickening agent 0.15%

[0607] Newtonian

[0608] Carboxymethyl Cellulose 6%

[0609] Water 93.84%

[0610] TOTAL for the pre-composition pre-composition C3 100%

[0611] Polymerization at 30 s - 405 nm

[0612] UV

[0613] Time - length

[0614] wave _

[0615] Particle size (pm) DvlO: 2.64

[0616] Dv50: 5.55

[0617]

[0618] Dv90: 10.3 Example l. G of polymeric microparticle

[0619] [Table 7] _ _

[0620] Example l. G Raw materials Mass percentages Pre-composition C2 Monomer M2 of formula (II) 95.0%

[0621] Monomer Ml dipentaerythritol hexaacrylate 0.5%

[0622] modified by 6 moles of caprolactone (DP6CAHA)

[0623] Ethyl phenyl(2,4,6-4% trimethylbenzoyl)phosphinate (Photoinitiator)

[0624] TOTAL pre-composition C2 100% Pre-composition C3 Newtonian associative thickening agent 0.5%

[0625] Carboxymethyl Cellulose 6%

[0626] Water 93.5%

[0627] TOTAL pre-composition C3 100% Polymerization in 2 minutes - 405 nm

[0628] UV

[0629] Time - length

[0630] wave

[0631] Procedure Procedure 2

[0632] Particle size (pm) Dv10: 1.82μm

[0633] Dv50: 5.14 μm

[0634]

[0635] Dv90: 9.55 μm

[0636] Example l. H of polymeric microparticle

[0637] [Table 8] _ _

[0638] Example l. H Raw materials Mass percentages Pre-composition C2 Monomer M2 of formula (II) 91.0%

[0639] Monomer ml dipentaerythritol hexaacrylate 5%

[0640] modified by 6 moles of caprolactone (DP6CAHA)

[0641] Ethyl phenyl(2,4,6-4% trimethylbenzoyl)phosphinate (Photoinitiator) TOTAL pre-composition C2 100% Pre-composition C3 Newtonian associative thickening agent 0.5%

[0642] Carboxymethyl Cellulose 6%

[0643] Water 93.5% TOTAL pre-composition C3 100% Polymerization in 2 minutes - 405 nm

[0644] UV

[0645] Time - length

[0646] wave

[0647] Procedure Procedure 2

[0648] Particle size (pm) Dv10: 1.82μm

[0649] Dv50: 5.14 μm

[0650]

[0651] Dv90: 9.55 μm Example 2: Water-in-oil emulsion fluid foundation according to the invention and comparison with the prior art

[0652] [Table 9]

[0653] INGREDIENTS Ex. 2A invention EX. 2B comparative WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Ethanol 6 6 Glycerin 1 1 enzymes (methion of SÔRBÏTAN 4 4 SESÇOUSOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-6

[0654] POLYRICINQLEATE and

[0655] POLYGLYCER. YL-2. ISOSTEARATE.)

[0656] Fillers (silica^ cellulose) 9.5 9.5 IRON OXIDES (black, red and yellow) 4.5 43 Preservatives 1 1 Bentone 4.5 4.5 Miœpartiarles of example W 8

[0657] Silicone elastomer gel in a solvent: ISODODECANE and POLYSILICONE-11 (1.2 MA*) (GRANSIL® RG-12 from Grant Industries) 8

[0658] Silicone elastomer gel in solvent 20 COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE and VINYL (6.8 MA*) DIMETHICONE / LAURYL DIMETHICONE

[0659] CROSSPOLYMER

[0660] (X-25-7055 MB- :: by Shin Etsu)

[0661] Isododecane 7 - C9-C12alkanes (Vegelight Silk) 7.6

[0662] COCO-CAPRYLAWCAPRATE (CETIOL® C SC 13

[0663] MB)

[0664]

[0665] *MA: active ingredient.

[0666] MA corresponds to the percentage of silicone elastomer present in the cosmetic composition after subtracting the percentage of solvent contained in the commercial raw material. The raw material X-25-7055 MB consists of VINYL DIMETHICONE / LAURYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER microparticles and COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE solvent, so the percentage of microparticles in the cosmetic composition is 6.8% (6.8% MA) when the raw material represents 20% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0667] Preparation protocol:

[0668] Part of the C9-C12 alkane oil, pigments and dispersant are mixed and then passed through the three-roll mill. The fillers, surfactants, oils and microparticles or silicone elastomer as appropriate are mixed and passed through the high-speed mixer, then the pigment phase is added and the mixture is kept under agitation.

[0669] The aqueous phase is prepared by mixing water, glycerin, preservative and ethanol under agitation, then the aqueous phase is added to the previous mixture.

[0670] Cosmetic evaluation:

[0671] The two foundation compositions were judged by a panel of experts to be equivalent in terms of softness, cushioning effect and blurring effect.

[0672] Example 3: Stick lipstick according to the invention and comparison with the prior art

[0673] [Table 10]

[0674] INGREDIENTS Ex 3A I Ex 3 B (invention) |

[0675] (comparative)

[0676] SILICA 6 6

[0677] WAXES (Carnauba, Candelilla, Sunflower) 9.6 9.6 Triheptanoin (Myglyol® T-C7) 7 | 7 j IRON OXIDES (red) 5.0 5.0 | ORGANIC PIGMENTS (LACKS) 2.0 2.0

[0678] Silicone elastomer gel in a solvent

[0679] DIMETHICONE & DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER 25 |

[0680] (Dowsil® EL9241 DM from Dow Corning) (3.75 MA*) 1

[0681] Microparticles of Example IB or Example IA 3.75 | Dimethicone 5 tsp 21.25 |

[0682]

[0683] POLYDECENE HYDROGEN QSP100 1 QSP100 |

[0684] *MA: active ingredient (see definition in example 2)

[0685] Preparation protocol:

[0686] Composition 3A is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0687] Weigh the elastomer with the triheptanoin and disperse for 15 min at 95°C;

[0688] Add the waxes, the other oil(s) and disperse for 15 minutes at 95°C;

[0689] Next add the pigments and disperse for 15 min at 95°C;

[0690] Add the ingredients and stir for 15 minutes, then transfer to a high-speed blender;

[0691] Add any active ingredients and shake for 15 minutes;

[0692] Then pour the mixture, at 95°C into a mold, then leave for 5 minutes at room temperature, then 15 minutes at 4°C.

[0693] Composition 3B is prepared according to the following procedure:

[0694] Weigh and add the waxes and oils;

[0695] Disperse while stirring until the temperature reaches 95°C and everything is melted; Then add the pigments and disperse for 15 min at 95°C;

[0696] Add the fillers and microparticles, and stir for 15 minutes at 95°C then transfer to a high-speed mixer;

[0697] Add any active ingredients and shake for 15 minutes at 95°C;

[0698] Then pour the mixture, at 95°C into a mold, then leave for 5 minutes at room temperature, then 15 minutes at 4°C.

[0699] Cosmetic evaluation:

[0700] Compositions 3A and 3B give similar results in terms of sensory evaluation and matte finish, according to expert opinion.

[0701] The composition is prepared according to the protocol used in example 3B. They provide a soft, matte film on the lips with a powdery and blurring effect.

[0702] Example 5: Liquid red

[0703] [Table 11]

[0704] | INGREDIENTS | % BY WEIGHT 1

[0705] | MINERAL OIL | S 1

[0706] | PASTY FAT i 10 |

[0707] | RED IRON OXIDES | 2 |

[0708] I ORGANIC LACQUERS S 2 |

[0709] 1 « î

[0710] i Microparticles from the example synthesis i 2

[0711] | lAà 1F | 1

[0712] S NACRES | 2 |

[0713] | SILICA i S

[0714] | MICA | 4 |

[0715] I

[0716]

[0717] ESTER OILS i Qsp 100 |

[0718] Example 6: Compact face powder

[0719] [Table 12]

[0720] INGREDIENTS % BY WEIGHT |

[0721] MICA 50 |

[0722] SILICA | 10 |

[0723] NYLON 8 i

[0724] MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2 |

[0725] SORBIC ACID 0.1

[0726] IRON OXIDES 10 |

[0727] Microparticles from the AI ​​synthesis example at 1F 6 1

[0728] GLYCOLS 2 1

[0729] ISONONYL ISONONANOATE Qsp 100

[0730]

[0731] PRESERVATIVES _ _ qs _ |Example 7: Anhydrous eyeshadow

[0732] [Table 13]

[0733] INGREDIENTS} % BY WEIGHT SILICA 1 15 SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOFITE | 10 IRON OXIDES | 8 Microparticles from the IA synthesis example at 1F i 8 NACRES 1 2

[0734]

[0735] OILS AND WAXES | Qsp 100

[0736] Example 8: Tinted day cream SPF30

[0737] [Table 14]

[0738] INGREDIENTS 1% BY WEIGHT | GLYCOL | 3.0 | GELDING POLYMER 3.0 | MINERAL OIL | 2.0 | POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL | 1.5 | IRON OXIDES (BLACK, RED AND YELLOW) | 2.0 | Microparticles of Synthesis Example 1A to 1F | 2.5 | Organic UV Filter | 5 | PRESERVATIVES | Qs FRAGRANCE CONCENTRATE | 0.3

[0739]

[0740] WATER 1 Qsp 100 | Example 9: Water-in-oil emulsion Blurring complexion makeup base

[0741] [Table 15]

[0742] | INGREDIENTS

[0743] WATER Qsp 100

[0744] Pentylene glycol 3

[0745] | Glycerin 3 Copolymer 2 ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYLSILOXYMETHACRYLATE and

[0746] ISODODECANE

[0747] | (DOWSIL® FA 4004 ID SILICONE ACRYLATE by Dow Corning)

[0748] | Xanthan gums 0,3 DIMETHICONE & PEG-10 DIMETHICONE and 4 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE ( NIKKOMULESB® WO-CF

[0749] MB)

[0750] SORBITAN SESQUIOLEATE 1

[0751] | ISODODECANE 3,9

[0752] 1 DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE 0.45

[0753] | Dimethicone 1.5 cSt 13.9 Conservators 1

[0754] Bentone 4.5 Microparticles of example 1B 10

[0755]

[0756] | Butylene glycol dicapryate / dicaprate 6.5

[0757] Example 10: Rouae à leyres en stick selon l'invention

[0758] An anhydrous lipstick is prepared according to three formulas detailed in Table 16 below. Formula 10A is a comparative formula comprising a commercially available elastomer gel. Compositions 10B and 10C are compositions according to the invention, comprising microparticles prepared according to the preceding examples IG and 1H.

[0759] [Table 16]

[0760] INGREDIENTS Ex 10A Ex 10B Ex 10C (comparative) (invention) (invention) SILICA 6

[0761] WAXES (Carnauba, Candelilla, Sunflower) 9.6 Triheptanoin (Myglyol T-C7) 7

[0762] IRON OXIDES (red) 5.0

[0763]

[0764] ORGANIC PIGMENTS (LACQUERS) 2.0 Silicone elastomer gel in solvent 25 - - DIMETHICONE & DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (3.75 MA*)

[0765] (Dowsil EL9241 DM from Dow Corning)

[0766] Microparticles from example IG - 3.75 Microparticles from example 1H 3.75 Dimethicone 5 cSt - 21.25 21.25

[0767]

[0768] POLYDECENE HYDROGEN QSP100

[0769] *MA: active ingredient (see definition in example 2)

[0770] Preparation protocol:

[0771] Composition 10A is prepared according to the procedure used for example 3A.

[0772] Compositions 10B and 10C are prepared according to the protocol used for example 3B.

[0773] Cosmetic evaluation:

[0774] Compositions 10B and 10C according to the invention offer improved sensory appeal compared to the comparative formula 10A. The film formed upon application of the formulas according to the invention adheres better to the lips. Application of formulas 10B and 10C to the lips is thus more controlled. Furthermore, formula 10C allows for the application of a thicker, more opaque film, resulting in enhanced color intensity compared to formula 10B.

[0775] Example 11: Water-in-silicone foundation

[0776] In this example, we prepare two foundation compositions for skin makeup. These compositions, in the form of water-in-silicone emulsions, include microparticles as described in the previous examples IG and 1H.

[0777] [Table 17]

[0778] INGREDIENTS Ex. 11A Ex.llB (invention) (invention) WATER Qs 100

[0779] Ethanol 10

[0780] Glycerin 2.0

[0781] Butylene glycol 3,5 Dimethicone 11,7

[0782] KP-550® 6,0 ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER (AND) ISODODECANE

[0783] BENTONE® Gel 6,0 ISODODECANE (AND) DISTEARDIMONIUM (AND) PROPYLENE

[0784] CARBONATE POLYGLYCERYL-IO DECAISOSTEARATE (S-FACE®) 1,5

[0785] CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE (COVABEAD® CRYSTAL) 5,0

[0786] LAURYL PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE 4,5

[0787] (KF® 6038)

[0788] Microparticules de l'exemple IG 6,0 -

[0789]

[0790] Microparticules de l'exemple 1H - 6,0ISODODECANE (AND) 4,0 ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYLSILOXYMETHACRYLATE

[0791] COPOLYMER (DOWSIL FA4004)

[0792] chlorphenesin 0,3 DOWSIL® ES-5300 0,6

[0793] LAURYL PEG- 10 TRIS(TRIMETHYLSILOXY)SILYLETHYL

[0794]

[0795] DIMETHICONE

[0796] It is noted that the excellent dispersibility of the microparticles in each of the two formulas of the invention makes it possible to obtain easily homogeneous compositions.

[0797] The water-in-silicone emulsion is applied to the skin. No grains or particle clumps are felt upon application. The texture is soft and pleasant. It also provides a blurring effect.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition comprising bulk polymeric microparticles based on a polymer comprising units corresponding to a first monomer Ml multi(meth)acrylate, as well as additional units selected from: - the units corresponding to a second monofunctional M2 monomer comprising at least one caprolactone group and a single (meth)acrylate group, and - mixtures of units corresponding to a third monofunctional monomer M3 selected from C12-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and of units corresponding to a fourth multifunctional monomer M4, different from the first monomer M1, comprising at least two urethane groups and at least two (meth)acrylate groups, said cosmetic composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient different from said polymeric microparticles.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the monomer Ml comprises from 2 to 8 (meth)acrylate groups.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the monomer Ml is selected from diol-di(meth)acrylates, for which the diol is an aliphatic alpha, omega-diol in C2-C12.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the monomer Ml is selected from polyol-multi(meth)acrylates modified by caprolactone motifs.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polymer comprises units corresponding to the monomer M2.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the monomer M2 has the formula (I): CH2=CR 1 (COO-R 2 O-[-CO-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-O-]x -H) (I) in which - R 1 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, - R 2 is a linear or C1-C6 branched alkylene group, and - x is a real number between 1 and 10.

7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized in that: - RI is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, - R2 is an ethanediyl group, and - x is equal to 2.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polymer comprises units corresponding to monomer M4.

9. A cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to the formula (III)CH2=CR 3 -CO-OR 4 -O-CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2(III) in which - R 3is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C1-C6, preferably an ethyl group, - R 5 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C6-C12 or an alicyclic group or an aromatic group.

10. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to formula (IV) CH2=CR 3 -CO-OR 4 -O-[CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 6 -O] y -R 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2(IV) in which - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C1-C6, - R 5 and R 6 are linear or branched C6-C12 aliphatic groups, or alicyclic groups, or aromatic groups, - y is a real number between 1 and 10.

11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to formula (V) R 8 (R 7 -O-CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2)n (V) in which - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C1-C6, - R 5 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C6-C12 or an alicyclic group or an aromatic group - R 7 is a linear or branched divalent aliphatic group in Cl-ClO that may contain ether, carbonyl, ester or amine functions, - R 8 is an n-valent group, - n is a real number between 3 and 10.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the multifunctional monomer M4 corresponds to formula (VI) R 8 (R 7 - O[CO-NH-R 5 -NH-CO-OR 6 -O] y -R 4 -O-CO-CR 3 =CH2)n (VI) in which - R 3 is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, - R 4 is a linear or branched aliphatic group in C1-C6, - R 5 and R 6 are linear or branched C6-C12 aliphatic groups, or alicyclic groups, or aromatic groups, - R 7 is a linear or branched divalent aliphatic group in Cl-ClO that may contain ether, carbonyl, ester or amine functions, - R 8 is an n-valent group, - n is a real number between 3 and 10, - y is a real number between 1 and 10.

13. Use of polymeric microparticles based on a polymer comprising units corresponding to a first monomer Ml multi(meth)acrylate, as well as additional units selected from: - the units corresponding to a second monofunctional M2 monomer comprising at least one caprolactone group and a single (meth)acrylate group, and - mixtures of units corresponding to a third monofunctional monomer M3 selected from C12-C22 alkyl (meth)acrylates and of units corresponding to a fourth multifunctional monomer M4, different from the first monomer M1, comprising at least two urethane groups and at least two (meth)acrylate groups, in a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin or lips, to obtain a cosmetic effect chosen from the group consisting of an optical blurring effect, a gliding sensation upon application, and a feeling of softness after application.

14. A method for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials such as skin and / or lips, characterized in that it comprises a step of applying a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, to said keratinous materials.

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