Composition based on spiculisporic acid or its salts and a mixture of polyester and ether oils

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, particularly for care of keratin materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I'), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts, and / or their solvates such as hydrates wherein R' represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+ represents a cationic counterion, b) at least one polyester type oil, and c) at least one ether type oil.

Description

[0001] Composition based on spiculisporic acid or its salts and a mixture of polyester and ether oils

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, particularly for care of keratin materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0003] a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts, and / or their solvates such as hydrates:

[0004]

[0005] wherein R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+represents a cationic counterion, b) at least one polyester type oil, and

[0006] c) at least one ether type oil.

[0007] Emulsions, particularly oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, are well known in the field of cosmetics, particularly for the preparation of products such as milks, creams, tonics, and serums.

[0008] Emulsions contain an aqueous phase and a fatty phase. They may have any type of consistency, but very few are completely fluid and stable. In addition, these emulsions leave a more or less greasy film on the skin and can therefore generally not be considered as evanescent. Evanescence of a composition is defined as the deposition of a very thin film on the skin which disappears very quickly.

[0009] There is therefore a need for compositions, particularly in emulsion form, which are very fluid, stable over time, and having the sensory characteristic of being evanescent.

[0010] There is furthermore a need for such emulsions, which are hydrating, while remaining cosmetically pleasant to use, i.e. in particular which do not give a tacky effect.

[0011] The inventors have now discovered that associating a compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), particularly spiculisporic acid, with at least one polyester type oil and one ether type oil, makes it possible to enhance the evanescence sensation of the composition, while beingfluid and stable. They have also discovered that this association makes it possible to enhance the hydrating effect of these compositions while having a lower than usual humectant content, which reduces their tacky effect.

[0012] In addition, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. the design and development of which account for environmental concerns, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0013] It has therefore become essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

[0014] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a good wilderness quality index and / or of natural origin, and more particularly those of plant origin, while reducing and / or eliminating the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0015] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, particularly for care of keratin materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0016] a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts, and / or their solvates such as hydrates:

[0017]

[0018] wherein R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+represents a cationic counterion, b) at least one polyester type oil, and

[0019] c) at least one ether type oil.

[0020] “Physiologically acceptable” means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0021] It also relates to a cosmetic method for care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, wherein the composition of the invention is applied on said keratin materials.The invention also relates to the use of the composition according to the invention, for hydrating keratin materials on which the composition is applied.

[0022] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferably oil-in-water.

[0023] The composition according to the invention is advantageously fluid, i.e. in particular it has a viscosity between 80 and 120 centipoise. The composition according to the invention is advantageously stable, which means that it has the same organoleptic characteristics, the same viscosity and the same pH at TO as after 2 months at 45°C or at 4°C.

[0024] Compound of formula (I) and / or (I’)

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) and / or (I’) as defined above, and / or any one of its stereoisomers, and / or any one of its salts, and / or any one of its solvates such as its hydrates.

[0026] Preferably, R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as nonyl, advantageously 9 carbon atoms.

[0027] According to one embodiment of the invention, R’ is an acyclic group.

[0028] According to one embodiment of the invention, R’ is a linear group.

[0029] According to one embodiment of the invention, R’ is a saturated group.

[0030] Preferably, the salts of compounds of formula (I) are organic or mineral base salts. As examples of mineral bases, mention can be made of hydroxides or carbonates of alkali and alkaline earth metals, such as sodium, potassium, calcium, ammonium, magnesium, lithium or sodium. As examples of organic bases, mention can be made of amines, alkanolamines or amino acids.

[0031] The organic base can particularly be chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines. More particularly, the organic base can be chosen from basic amino acids particularly chosen from the following amino acids: arginine, lysine, ornithine, citruline and histidine, and mixtures thereof; in particular the amino acid is arginine.

[0032] The organic base can also be chosen from the following alkanolamines: mono-, di-and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the alkanolamine is triethanolamine.Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, salts of alkaline earth metals, such as calcium, or ammonium ion salts, preferably sodium ion salts.

[0033] Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from salts of the following formula as well as their stereoisomers:

[0034] - salts of formula (I l-a)

[0035]

[0036] , and

[0037] - salts of formula (I l-c)

[0038]

[0039] wherein M+represents a cationic counterion, in particular represents the conjugate acid or countercation of a base chosen from the organic and inorganic bases listed above, preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium, or the ammonium ion; and R’ is as defined above.

[0040] Preferably, in the compounds of formula (I’), M+represents a cationic counterion, in particular represents the conjugate acid or countercation of a base chosen from organic and inorganic bases, preferably those listed above, preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium, or the ammonium ion.

[0041] Preferably, the compound(s) of formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention in the form of a salt, particularly a sodium, monosodium or disodium salt.The composition according to the invention therefore preferably comprises a compound of formula (I).

[0042] Preferably, the compound of formula (I) is spiculisporic acid, also known as 4,5-dicarboxy-4-pentadecanolide, and its stereoisomers, its salts, and its solvates such as hydrates. Spiculisporic acid has the following formula (l-a):

[0043]

[0044] The spiculisporic acid (also known as “S-acid”) that can be used within the scope of the invention can be in salified or non-salified form. The salt form can be an organic or mineral salt. In such a case, the spiculisporic acid can be used as a mixture with an organic or mineral base. More specifically, S-acid may form a monosalt, a disalt, or a trisalt, or a mixture of monosalt, disalt, and trisalt.

[0045] The monosalt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic group linked to the C4 carbon atom of S-acid.

[0046] The disalt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups linked to the C4 and C5 carbon atoms of S-acid.

[0047] The trisalt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups linked to the C4 and C5 carbon atoms of S-acid and of salification of the lactone function in its open form.

[0048] The organic and inorganic bases are as defined above for the compounds of formula (I).

[0049] In the compositions according to the invention, the spiculosporic acid can take the form of a monosalt, a disalt, a trisalt or a mixture of several salts of differing degrees of salification.

[0050] The compound of formula (I) and / or (I’) is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.05% to 8% by mass, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by mass, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0051] Polyester type oil

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises b) at least one polyester oil. A polyester oil is an oil comprising at least two ester functions.Oil denotes any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 - 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0053] A polyester oil according to the invention is preferably of formula Z-[C(O)-O-R]mor of formula Z’-[O-C(O)-R]m, where m represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably equal to 2, 3 or 4, advantageously m = 3, R represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated chain, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, Z is a residue of a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic diacid or polycarboxylic acid (compound comprising at least three COOH functions), comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and Z’ is the residue of a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated diol or polyol (compound comprising at least three OH functions), comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0054] Among polyester oils, a distinction can be made among:

[0055] - diesters, particularly comprising between 6 and 60 carbon atoms in total, in particular between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Diesters of carboxylic diacid and monoalcohols may particularly be used, in particular diesters of a C2-C8 carboxylic diacid and a C2-C8 monoalcohol, optionally hydroxylated, such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2 hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, or diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate; or diesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentylglycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethyleneglycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate

[0056] - triesters, particularly comprising between 6 and 70 carbon atoms in total, in particular such as triesters of carboxylic acid, particularly C2-C8, and an alcohol, particularly C2-C8, optionally hydroxylated, such as citric acid esters, like trioctyl citrate, triethylcitrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate;

[0057] - tetraesters, in particular having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or of polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate;

[0058] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of carboxylic acid(s) hydroxylated by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and by an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated, such as castor oil of succinic acid and of isostearic acid; and - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid liquid triglycerides (liquid at ambient temperature), particularly fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil, in particular, mention can be made of saturatedtriglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 by Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stearineries Dubois, coco-caprylate / caprate and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil;

[0059] - more particularly, vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid liquid triglycerides (liquid at ambient temperature), particularly fatty acids having from 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, in particular, mention can be made of saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 by Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, Cis-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 marketed by Stearineries Dubois, coco-caprylate / caprate and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.

[0060] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise jojoba oil.

[0061] Preferably, the polyester oil according to the invention is chosen from vegetable hydrocarbon oils, preferably from saturated triglycerides, advantageously is caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0062] The polyester type oil is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.5% to 20% by mass, preferably from 1% to 15% by mass, preferably from 2% to 10% by mass, preferably from 3% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0063] Ether type oil

[0064] The composition according to the invention comprises c) at least one ether oil.

[0065] Preferably, the ether type oil(s) are chosen from oils of formula Ra’-O-Rb’, wherein Ra’ and Rb’, identical or different, preferably identical, are such that Ra’ represents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb’ represents a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the sum of the carbon atoms of Ra’ and Rb’ being between 10 and 30, preferably between 12 and 20, such as 16, advantageously is dicaprylic ether.

[0066] The ether type oil is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.1% to 15% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.8% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.Preferably, the mass ratio between the polyester type oil(s) and the ether type oil(s) is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably ranges from 0.8 to 10, preferably ranges from 1.0 to 5.0.

[0067] Monoester type oil

[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least d) one monoester oil, particularly a monoester oil of formula Ra-C(O)-ORb wherein Rarepresents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb represents a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the sum of the carbon atoms of Raand Rb being greater than or equal to 10, preferably between 15 and 40, preferably Rarepresents the residue of a saturated linear fatty acid including from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably Rb represents a saturated chain, including from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0069] As preferred monoesters, mention can be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, octyl-2-docetyl neopentanoate, isocetyl stearate, advantageously is isocetyl stearate.

[0070] The monoester oil is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 1% to 25% by mass, preferably from 2% to 20% by mass, preferably from 3% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0071] Preferably, the composition comprises the mixture of at least one first oil chosen from polyester type oils as defined above, at least one second oil chosen from ether type oils as defined above and at least one third oil chosen from monoester oils as defined above; advantageously, the first oil is a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, the second oil is dicaprylic ether, and the third oil is isocetyl stearate.

[0072] Preferably, the mass ratio between the first oil and the second oil ranges from 0.5 to 8.0, preferably from 0.8 to 5.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the first oil and the third oil ranges from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the second oil and the third oil ranges from 0.05 to 2.0, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2

[0073] The composition may further comprise one or more oils chosen from linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon-chain fatty alcohols having from 10 to 26 carbon atoms; linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon-chain fatty acids having from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, particularly C16-C24 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.Preferably, the composition comprises, relative to the total mass of the composition, a total of 1% to 40% by mass of oils, preferably from 3% to 30% by mass, preferably from 5% to 20% by mass, preferably from 8% to 15% by mass.

[0074] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 - 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The oil content corresponds in particular to the sum of the mass contents of polyester type oil(s), ether type oil(s), and monoester oil(s) if present.

[0075] Preferably, the oils of the composition are natural, and preferably of plant origin. Preferably, the mass ratio between the oils in the composition and the compound of formula (I) and / or (I’) ranges from 5 to 30, preferably from 8 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20, preferably from 12 to 18.

[0076] This ratio accounts for all the oils in the composition, preferably accounts for the total content of polyester oil and ether oil, as well as monoester oil if present.

[0077] Additional surfactants

[0078] The composition may further comprise at least one surfactant

[0079] The surfactants may be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants, preferably from non-ionic surfactants.

[0080] Among non-ionic surfactants, mention can be made in particular of:

[0081] - C8-C20 fatty acids, such as stearic acid,

[0082] - esters and ethers of sugars such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols such as Montanov 68® from Seppic;

[0083] - ethoxylated methyl glucose esters, for example PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate;

[0084] - oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene ethers (that may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;

[0085] - oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene ethers (that may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (particularly C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Ceteareth-30”), oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “Steareth-20”), oxyethylene ether of the mixture of 012-015 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “012-15 Pareth-7”) marketed particularly under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;

[0086] - esters of fatty acids (particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, acid) and of polyol, particularly of glycerol or of sorbitol, or monoester derivatives of polyol such asmonoesters of polyol and of polyacid, particularly monoesters of glycerol or sorbitol and citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, such as glyceryl stearate like the product sold under the trade name TEGIN M® by GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate like the product sold under the trade name IMWITOR 312® by HLILS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl monocitrate stearate;

[0087] - esters, for example monoesters, diesters or triesters, preferably monoesters, of fatty acid (particularly C8-C24, and preferably C10-C20, acid) and of polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units, for example polyglyceryl-4 caprate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate;

[0088] - alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of polyethylene oxide which are preferably those in which the number of ethylene oxide (EG) units varies from 2 to 200. For example, mention can be made of 23 EO cetyl ether, 50 EO oleyl ether, 30 EO phytosterol, steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100;

[0089] - polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) C16-C24 alkyl ethers (C16-C24), for example PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30,

[0090] - esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids (particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated), for example PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, optionally in association with an ester of fatty acid and glycerol such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by Croda under the trade name Arlacel 165®;

[0091] - esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, for example sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160®;

[0092] - fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (that may include from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, particularly sold under the trade name Simulsol 220 TM® by SEPPIC; PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, particularly marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by ICI UNIQUEMA; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT S® product sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the TAGAT O® product sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups like the VARIONIC LI 13® product sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT L® product sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 groups of ethylene oxide like the TAGAT I® product from Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT,- fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (that may include from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 particularly sold under the trade name Tween 20® by CRODA, polysorbate 60 particularly sold under the trade name Tween 60® by CRODA,

[0093] - dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the trade name Q2-5220® by DOW CORNING,

[0094] - dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from FINTEX), - copolymers of propylene oxide and of ethylene oxide, also called EO / OP polycondensates,

[0095] and mixtures thereof.

[0096] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from esters, preferably monoesters, of C8-C24 fatty acids and of polyol, particularly of glycerol or sorbitol, or of monoester derivative of polyol such as polyol and polyacid monoester, particularly monoesters of glycerol or sorbitol and citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, preferably a monoester of C8-C24 fatty acids and glyceryl monocitrate, advantageously chosen from glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl monocitrate stearate.

[0097] The surfactant is preferably present in a quantity ranging from 0.01% to 10% by mass, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by mass, preferably from 0.1 % to 1 % by mass, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by mass relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0098] Fillers

[0099] The composition may further comprise at least one filler.

[0100] “Filler” particularly means an ingredient, which when added to the formula, makes it possible to modify its physical properties, enhance spreading, its texture, its appearance (opacifying, transparency, mattification, etc.), or enhance its volume, without for all that having a direct effect on the substrate, particularly the skin.

[0101] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the filler(s) are mineral. Mention can particularly be made of talc, mica, kaolin, silica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and alkali or alkaline-earth metal carbonates, such as calcium carbonate.

[0102] According to another embodiment, the filler(s) are organic, of natural or synthetic origin. Mention can particularly be made of corn, rice, and wheat starch, and nylon or poly((Ci-C4)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl))acrylate particles, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Preferably, the filler(s) are chosen from cellulose particles, silica, starches, kaolin, clays, nylon or poly((Ci-C4)alkyl (Ci -C4)(alkyl))acrylate particles such as poly(methylmeth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof, preferably comprises silica, optionally in a mixture with another filler, particularly a starch such as corn starch.

[0104] Preferably, the mass content of the filler(s) relative to the total mass of the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by mass of fillers, preferably from 0.3% to 8% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by mass, preferably from 0.8% to 3% by mass.

[0105] Physiologically acceptable aqueous medium

[0106] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. Said medium comprises water.

[0107] The water used can be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or a spring or natural mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, water from the basin of Vichy, linage water, la Roche Posay water, la Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, les Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avene water.

[0108] The composition preferably comprises at least 5% by mass of water relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass.

[0109] The composition preferably comprises from 20% to 95% by mass of water relative to the total mass of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 60% to 85%.

[0110] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C.

[0111] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Among the alcohols, mention can be made of C1-C10, more preferably C1-C5, alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0113] The polyol is, preferably, chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propyleneglycol, isoprene glycol, dipropyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethyleneglycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0114] The composition may comprise from 1% to 25% by mass of water-miscible organic solvent, relative to the total mass of the composition, more preferably from 3% to 20% by mass, even more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight.In particular, the composition comprises at least one humectant agent, preferably glycerol, at a content less than or equal to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by mass.

[0115] Other ingredients

[0116] Each formulation may contain one or more of the usual active ingredients or excipients in the cosmetic and dermatological fields different from fillers, such as hydrating agents; emollients; gelling agents, for example natural gelling agents; active ingredients; antioxidants; thickeners; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; sequestering agents; electrolytes; pH adjusters; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts, and mixtures thereof. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields in question. In particular, these quantities vary according to the sought purpose and may for example range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0117] Obviously, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional active ingredient(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered, by the envisaged addition.

[0118] As thickeners, mention can be made of silicones in particular poly(di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)siloxanes such as dimethicone or PDMS, and poly(di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)cyclosiloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, polyether silicones and cationic silicones, carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulens such as Pemulen TR1® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer); polyacrylamides such as for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305® (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) orSimulgel 600® (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide I sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer I isohexadecane I polysorbate 80) by Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanel sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the trade name “Hostacerin AMPS” (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate I polysorbate 80 I sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by SEPPIC; celluloses particularly (hydroxy)(C1-C4)(alkyl)celluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and particularly carrageenan and gums such as xanthan gum, and mixtures thereof.

[0119] The thickeners are preferably present in a quantity between 0.05% and 5% by mass, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0120] The composition according to the invention may be obtained conventionally by those skilled in the art.

[0121] The expressions “at least one...” implies “one or more...” and “between ... and ...” and “ranging from ... to ...” are to be understood to be inclusive of the limits, unless specified otherwise.

[0122] Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided.

[0123] EXAMPLES

[0124] Example 1 :

[0125] Compositions C1 and C3 according to the invention and comparative compositions C2* and C4* of Tables 1 and 2 hereinafter are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0126] - Solubilize spiculisporic acid in the organic base in the presence of water using a magnetic stirring bar at ambient temperature;

[0127] - Add glyceryl caprylate or glyceryl stearate and citrate to the previous mixture under stirring with a magnetic stirring bar at ambient temperature or the solubilization temperature of the surfactant;

[0128] - Add the glycols under stirring with a magnetic stirring bar at ambient temperature. Hot solubilize (melting temperature) stearic acid and glyceryl stearate in the oils for C4*;

[0129] - Add the oils to the previous mixture under rotor-stator stirring at a speed of 2000 rpm for 10 minutes at ambient temperature for C1, C2* and C3 and at the melting temperature of the surfactants for C4*;

[0130] - Add the gelling agent to the emulsion under rotor-stator stirring at a speed of 2000 rpm at ambient temperature;

[0131] - Add the remaining water with the solubilized active ingredients and the preservatives, then the fillers and ethanol under rotor-stator stirring at a speed of 2500 rpm at ambient temperature.

[0132] [Table 1]

[0133]

[0134] Example 2: Sensory tests

[0135] The compositions of Example 1 were firstly assessed with sensory tests, according to the following protocol: from six to ten people trained in assessing cosmetic products assessed compositions C1, C2*, C3, and C4* in pairs. The quantity applied on the back of the hand is standardized at 50pL. The film-forming effect, penetration, and drying rate are the sensory items which best characterize evanescence. The assessment is made by scoring the following items from 1 (none) to 5 (high level): fluidity, ease of spreading / application, freshness, drying / evaporation / disappearing rate, penetration / transient / dissipation, film-forming, and tight sensation.

[0136] The results obtained are as follows:

[0137] [Table 2]

[0138]

[0139] [Table 3]

[0140]

[0141] [Table 4]

[0142]

[0143] The film-forming effect, penetration, and drying rate are the sensory items which particularly characterize evanescence: a formula is evanescent when the film-forming effect, penetration, and drying rate are present without being too high. It was therefore demonstrated that composition C2*, which contains 12% of a single ether type oil, is less evanescent than formula C1 , which contains a mixture of at least one polyester type oil and one ether type oil. It was also demonstrated that the nature of the co-surfactant therefore has no influence on the evanescence of the composition (C1 vs. C3). Finally, composition C1 comprising a compound of formula (I) is more evanescent than composition C4*, which comprises none.

[0144] Example 3: Confocal microscopy characterization

[0145] The confocal microscopy characterization of compositions C1 , C2*, C3 and C4* was performed according to the following protocol:

[0146] Sample preparation

[0147] Fluorochrome solutions

[0148] - Fluorescein Salt (Sigma Aldrich) solubilized in water, at a rate of [0.01 M], Solubilization is performed at ambient temperature, under gentle stirring.

[0149] - Pyrromethene 650 (Exciton) solubilized in caprylic / capric triglyceride at [0.1 mg / L], Solubilization is performed at ambient temperature, under gentle stirring.

[0150] Diffusion staining

[0151] 5 pL of each of the fluorochrome solutions is added to 1.5 mL of composition. The mixture is gently stirred by hand using a spatula and then left to stand for diffusion for at least 3 hours at ambient temperature.After the fluorochrome solutions have diffused, the sample is characterized in bulk and deposition.

[0152] In bulk, it is placed between two microscope slides (thickness 170 pm) separated by a 250 pm spacer. The observable sample volume is 25 pL.

[0153] In deposition, a calibrated thickness of:

[0154] - 25 pm is spread on a glass cover slip and allowed to dry at ambient temperature - 150 pm is spread on a STRAT-M substrate. This is allowed to dry for 1h at ambient temperature. STRAT-M is a substrate consisting of a gelled lipid layer (70% PDMS 100cst / 30% isopropyl myristate) and a fibrous polymer layer (polyolefin / polyethersulfone). The surface energy of Strat-M is similar to that of the stratum corneum

[0155] Observations

[0156] Microscope settings

[0157] A laser scanning confocal microscope (TC SP8, Leica Microsystems) is used to perform the observations. Two lasers (Argon - AAr= 488 nm and He / Ne - Ane / Ne = 561 nm) are used to excite the fluorochromes Fluorescein (Ap-maxabs = 515 nm) and Pyrromethene 650 (Ap-maxabs = 612 nm), respectively. Two PMT (PhotoMultiplier Tube) type detectors are configured to retrieve the fluorescence emission signal on the bandwidths AAp-em = 497 -530 nm and AAs-em = 620 - 720 nm, respectively.

[0158] An appropriate magnification lens for the characteristic size of the structure to be observed is used. The image scanning frequency is 400 Hz. The images are acquired in a soft format of 512 x 512 pixels. An average per line is defined at 4 so as to enhance image quality. The images are acquired sequentially, i.e. by alternating sample excitation and emission on the 2 lasers. This option avoids possible overlapping of the fluorescence absorption and emission spectra which could cause artifacts in the images obtained.

[0159] Image interpretation

[0160] False colors are applied to the images acquired in grayscale. By convention here, the hydrophilic phase resulting from fluorescence emission from Fluorescein will appear in shades of green. Conversely, the lipophilic phase resulting from fluorescence emission from Pyrromethene 650 will appear in shades of red. Black zones are the result of an absence of fluorescence. The fluorochrome solutions have therefore not diffused in these zones.

[0161] The confocal microscopy characterization of composition C1 relative to composition C2* shows differences in emulsion fineness, coalescence in deposition on glass slide and on Strat-M, and a different homogeneity according to the formulas in deposition on Strat-M. The confocal microscopy observation of the formulas can thus be correlated with sensory perception:- Composition C1 is fine and has a low coalescence in deposition. The presence of water and oil in emulsion form is identifiable on Strat-M in the hollows, and the oils coat the Strat-M fibers. The sensory perception of this formula is then one of substantial evanescence. - Composition C2* is less fine than composition C1. It also demonstrates a higher coalescence in deposition on the glass slide and on Strat-M. The oils coat the Strat-M fibers, and practically only water remains in the hollows of Strat-M , which has the effect of inducing a greasy effect and therefore little or no evanescence.

[0162] A formula is evanescent when the film-forming effect is weak or not present. The film-forming effect is characterized by an overly present oil (or oily phase), which can result in an imbalance in distribution on a substrate (skin, Strat-M, etc.) between oil and water at equivalent composition.

[0163] Composition C1 is evanescent because it shows a good distribution between oil and water: little oil present on the fibers, and emulsion (therefore homogeneous mixture of water and oil) in the hollows. Composition C2* is less evanescent than composition C1 because it shows a poor distribution of oil and water: a considerable amount of oil on the fibers and a considerable amount of water without too much emulsion in the hollows.

[0164] The confocal microscopy characterization of composition C1 vs composition C4* shows differences in emulsion fineness, coalescence in deposition on glass slide and on Strat-M. The confocal microscopy observation of the formulas can thus be correlated with sensory perception:

[0165] - Composition C1 is fine and has a low coalescence in deposition which seems to be controlled. The presence of water and oil in emulsion form is identifiable on Strat-M in the hollows, and the oils coat the Strat-M fibers. The sensory perception of this formula is then one of substantial evanescence.

[0166] - Composition C4* is less fine in bulk but has no coalescence in deposition on glass slide. The oils do not coat the fibers of Strat-M at all, the emulsion remains entirely in the hollows of Strat M, which has the effect of inducing a weak film-forming effect, low penetration, and a lower drying rate relative to composition C1, and therefore little or no evanescence.

[0167] Example 4: Assessment of hydrating effect

[0168] Compositions C5 and C6 according to the invention and comparative composition C7* of Tables 5 and 6 hereinafter are prepared according to the same protocol as that described in Example 1:

[0169] [Table 5]

[0170]

[0171] [Table 6]

[0172]

[0173] These compositions were tested with corneometry, which makes it possible to assess their effect on the degree of hydration of the upper layers of the skin, with repeated measurements of the dielectric capacitance thereof, after single or repeated application, one zone serving as an untreated control.

[0174] The hydration level measurements are performed using a CORNEOMETER® CM 825 PC CORNEOMETER (COURAGE + KHAZAKA).

[0175] Application of 2mg / cm2is performed with a finger cot, followed by rubbing the fingertip until complete penetration. Penetration is considered complete when a braking sensation occurs. The waiting time before measurement is 1 h, and 3 wipes are performed before measurement.

[0176] The test was conducted on 4 volunteers.

[0177] Formula C7* serves as a positive reference for this test and a zone of bare skin serves as a negative reference.The results obtained are as follows:

[0178] [Table 7]

[0179]

[0180] These results show that associating spiculisporic acid with one or more oils (preferably isopropyl stearate, caprylic capric triglycerides and dicaprylyl ether), in the presence of a low glycerin content (5%), allows a very markedly higher hydration level than the hydration reference C7* which contains 7% glycerin.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, particularly for care of keratin materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts, and / or their solvates such as hydrates:wherein R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+represents a cationic counterion, b) at least one polyester type oil, andc) at least one ether type oil.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein a) the compound(s) of formula (I) and / or (I’) is(are) such that R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising from 4 to 16, particularly from 5 to 14, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, such as nonyl, and M+represents a cationic counterion, in particular represents the conjugate acid or the countercation of a base chosen from organic and inorganic bases, preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium and potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium, or the ammonium ion; more preferably the compound(s) of formula (I) and / or (I’) is spiculisporic acid of formula (l-a)and / or any one of its stereoisomers, and / or any one of its salts, and / or any one of its solvates.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein b) the polyester type oil(s) are chosen from polyester oils of formula Z-[C(O)-O-R]mor of formula Z’-[O-C(O)-R]m, where m represents an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably equal to 2, 3 or 4,advantageously m = 3, R represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated chain, comprising from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms, Z is the residue of a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic diacid or polycarboxylic acid, comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and Z’ is the residue of a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated diol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably the polyester oil is chosen from vegetable hydrocarbon oils, preferably from saturated triglycerides, advantageously is caprylic / capric triglyceride.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein c) the ether type oil(s) are chosen from oils of formula Ra’-O-Rb’, wherein Ra’ and Rb’, identical or different, preferably identical, are such that Ra’ represents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb’ represents a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the sum of the carbon atoms of Ra’ and Rb’ being between 10 and 30, preferably between 12 and 20, such as 16, advantageously is dicaprylic ether.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio between the polyester type oil(s) and the ether type oil(s) is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably ranges from 0.8 to 10, preferably ranges from 1.0 to 5.0.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least d) one monoester oil, particularly a monoester oil of formula Ra-C(O)-ORb wherein Rarepresents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb represents a linear or branched, particularly branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the sum of the carbon atoms of Raand Rb being greater than or equal to 10, preferably between 15 and 40, preferably Rarepresents the residue of a saturated linear fatty acid including from 12 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably Rb represents a saturated chain, including from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, advantageously is isocetyl stearate.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the mixture of at least one first oil chosen from polyester oils according to claim 3, at least one second oil selected from ether oils according to claim 4, and at least one third oil chosenfrom monoester oils according to claim 6; advantageously, the first oil is a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, the second oil is dicaprylic ether, and the third oil is isocetyl stearate.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the mass ratio between the first oil and the second oil ranges from 0.5 to 8.0, preferably from 0.8 to 5.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the first oil and the third oil ranges from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the second oil and the third oil ranges from 0.05 to 2.0, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more oils chosen from linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon-chain fatty alcohols having from 10 to 26 carbon atoms; linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon-chain fatty acids having from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, particularly C -C24 fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, relative to the total mass of the composition, a total of 1% to 40% by mass of oils, preferably from 3% to 30% by mass, preferably from 5% to 20% by mass, preferably from 8% to 15% by mass.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the oils are natural, and preferably of plant origin.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio between the oils and the compound of formula (I) and / or (I’) ranges from 5 to 30, preferably from 8 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20, preferably from 12 to 18.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one surfactant chosen from esters, preferably monoesters, of C8-C24 fatty acids and of polyol, particularly of glycerol or sorbitol, or of monoester derivative of polyol such as polyol and polyacid monoester, particularly monoesters of glycerol or sorbitol and citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, preferably a monoester of C8-C24 fatty acids and glyceryl monocitrate, advantageously chosen from glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl monocitrate stearate.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one filler, preferably chosen from: mineral fillers, particularly talc, mica, kaolin, silica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and alkali or alkaline-earth metal carbonates, such as calcium carbonate; organic fillers, of natural or synthetic origin, particularly corn, rice, and wheat starch, and nylon or poly((Ci-C4)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl))acrylate particles, and mixtures thereof; preferably, c) the filler(s) are chosen from cellulose particles, silica, starches, kaolin, clays, nylon particles or poly((Ci-C4)alkyl (Ci-C4)(alkyl))acrylate particles such as polymethyl (meth)acrylate, and mixtures thereof, preferably the filler comprises silica, optionally in a mixture with another filler, particularly a starch such as corn starch; preferably, the mass content of the filler(s) relative to the total mass of the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by mass of fillers, preferably from 0.3% to 8% by mass, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by mass, preferably from 0.8% to 3% by mass.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one humectant agent, preferably glycerol, at a content less than or equal to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferably oil-in-water.

17. A cosmetic method for care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 16 on said keratin materials.

18. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, for hydrating keratin materials on which the composition is applied.

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