Composition comprising spiculisporic acid or its salts, an oil and a filler

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, specifically for the care of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I'), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts, and / or their solvates such as hydrates: (I) (I') wherein R' represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+ represents a cationic counter-ion, b) at least one oil, and c) at least one filler.

Description

[0001] Composition comprising spiculisporic acid or its salts, an oil and a filler

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, specifically for the care of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0003] a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts, and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0004]

[0005] in which R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+represents a cationic counter-ion, b) at least one oil, and

[0006] c) at least one filler.

[0007] Emulsions, specifically oil-in-water (O / W), are well known in the field of cosmetics, particularly for the preparation of products such as milks, creams, tonics and serums.

[0008] In this type of composition, it is common to use fillers, specifically to improve the sensoriality of these compositions or to give them a care aspect. For example, acne products often comprise fillers to reduce seborrhea by absorbing sebum.

[0009] Fillers can also add desired optical properties to this type of composition, such as mattness (i.e. reducing the glossy aspect of the skin) and / or a blurring effect (i.e. masking skin imperfections by diffusing light homogeneously).

[0010] However, the presence of filler results in decreased hydration provided by these compositions. A solution to remedy this hydration decrease is to increase the humectant content, but this then entails an undesirable sticky sensation.

[0011] There is therefore a need for compositions that are moisturizing in the presence of fillers, while remaining cosmetically pleasant to use, that is, in particular, which do not produce a sticky effect.

[0012] The inventors have now discovered that the mixing of a compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), specifically spiculisporic acid, with at least one oil makes it possible to obtain acomposition which, although comprising fillers, is moisturizing and non-sticky upon application.

[0013] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, those whose design and development take into account environmental issues, is becoming a major concern, to help address global challenges.

[0014] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus making it possible to respond to these environmental issues.

[0015] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, specifically by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and, more particularly, of plant origin, while reducing and / or eliminating the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0016] Thus, the present invention aims at a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, specifically for the care of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0017] a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts, and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:

[0018]

[0019] wherein R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+represents a cationic counter-ion, b) at least one oil, and

[0020] c) at least one filler.

[0021] "Physiologically acceptable" means a medium compatible with keratinous materials.

[0022] It also aims at a cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, wherein the composition according to the invention is applied to said keratinous materials.The invention also aims at the use of the composition according to the invention to moisturize keratinous materials on which the composition is applied.

[0023] The invention also aims at the use of the composition according to the invention to prevent the appearance and / or reduce the number of acne-related imperfections on keratinous materials.

[0024] Thus, the present invention aims at the composition according to the invention for use in the treatment of acne, preferably to prevent the appearance and / or reduce the number of imperfections on keratinous materials due to acne.

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferably oil-in-water.

[0026] The composition according to the invention is advantageously fluid, that is to say, in particular, that it has a viscosity of between 80 and 120 centipoises. The composition according to the invention is advantageously stable, which means that it has the same organoleptic characteristics, the same viscosity and the same pH at TO as after 2 months at 45°C or at 4°C.

[0027] Compound of formula (I) and / or (I’)

[0028] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more compounds of formula (I) and / or (I’) as defined above, and / or any of its stereoisomers, and / or any of its salts, and / or any of its solvates, such as its hydrates.

[0029] Preferably, R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group comprising 4 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 5 to 14 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms, advantageously 9 carbon atoms, such as nonyl.

[0030] According to one embodiment of the invention, R’ is an acyclic group.

[0031] According to one embodiment of the invention, R’ is a linear group.

[0032] According to one embodiment of the invention, R’ is a saturated group.

[0033] Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are organic or mineral base salts. Examples of mineral bases include hydroxides or carbonates of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals such as sodium, potassium, calcium, ammonium, magnesium, lithium, or sodium. Examples of organic bases include amines, alkanolamines or amino acids.

[0034] The organic base can be specifically chosen from amino acids and alkanolamines. More particularly, the organic base can be chosen from basic amino acids specificallychosen from the following amino acids: arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline, histidine and their mixtures; in particular, the amino acid is arginine.

[0035] The organic base can also be chosen from the following alkanolamines: mono-, di-and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol as well as their mixtures. Preferably, the alkanolamine is triethanolamine.

[0036] Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium, or ammonium ion salts, preferably sodium ion salts.

[0037] Preferably, the salts of the compounds of formula (I) are chosen from the following formula salts as well as their stereoisomers:

[0038] - formula (I l-a) salts

[0039]

[0040] , and

[0041] - formula (I l-c) salts

[0042]

[0043] wherein M+represents a cationic counter-ion, in particular represents the conjugate acid or the counter-cation of a base chosen from the organic and inorganic bases listed above, preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium and potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium or the ammonium ion; and R’ is as defined above.

[0044] Preferably, in the compounds of formula (I’), M+represents a cationic counter-ion, in particular represents the conjugate acid or the counter-cation of a base chosen from theorganic and inorganic bases, preferably as listed above, preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium and potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium or the ammonium ion.

[0045] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more salts of compounds of formula (I) and / or (I’), preferably a mono-salt of a compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), notably a salt of formula (I l-a) or (ll-b). More preferably, the salt is an organic base mono-salt of said compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), notably a salt of formula (I l-a) or (ll-b) wherein M+represents the conjugate acid or the counter-cation of an organic base. Even more preferably, the salt is an arginine mono-salt of said compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), notably a salt of formula (I l-a) or (ll-b) wherein M+represents the conjugate acid or the counter-cation of arginine.

[0046] Preferably, the one or more compounds of formula (I) are present in the composition according to the invention in the form of a salt, specifically a sodium salt, mono sodium or disodium. The composition according to the invention therefore preferably comprises a compound of formula (I).

[0047] Preferably, the compound of formula (I) is spiculisporic acid, also known as 4,5-dicarboxy-4-pentadecanolide, as well as its stereoisomers, its salts and its solvates such as hydrates. Spiculisporic acid has the following formula (l-a):

[0048]

[0049] Spiculisporic acid (also called "S-acid") that can be used in the context of the invention can be in salified or non-salified form. When it is in the form of a salt, it can be an organic or mineral salt. In this case, spiculisporic acid can be used in a mixture with an organic or mineral base. More precisely, S-acid can form a mono-salt, a di-salt, or a tri-salt or a mixture of mono-salt, di-salt, and tri-salt.

[0050] The mono-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic group linked to the carbon atom in position C4 of S-acid.

[0051] The di-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups linked to the carbon atoms in positions C4 and C5 of S-acid.

[0052] The tri-salt corresponds to the product of neutralization of the carboxylic groups linked to the carbon atoms in positions C4 and C5 of S-acid and salification of the lactone function in its open form.The organic and inorganic bases are as defined above for the compounds of formula (I).

[0053] In the compositions according to the invention, the spiculisporic acid can be in the form of a mono-salt, a di-salt, a tri-salt or a mixture of several salts of different degrees of salification.

[0054] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises one or more salts of spiculisporic acid, preferably a mono-salt of spiculisporic acid, more preferably an organic base mono-salt of spiculisporic acid, even more preferably an arginine mono-salt of spiculisporic acid.

[0055] The compound of formula (I) and / or (I’) is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0056] Oil

[0057] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 - 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). An oil suitable for the invention can be volatile or nonvolatile. The oil can be hydrocarbon-based or silicone-based, preferably hydrocarbonbased.

[0058] A hydrocarbon-based oil suitable for the invention can be an animal hydrocarbon oil, a vegetable hydrocarbon oil or a synthetic hydrocarbon oil.

[0059] "Hydrocarbon oil" means an oil essentially formed, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. The hydrocarbon oil is therefore distinct from a silicone oil and a fluorinated oil.

[0060] It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Preferably, the hydrocarbon oil is free of heteroatoms such as nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus.

[0061] The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0062] "Volatile oil" in the sense of the invention means an oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or keratinous fiber in less than an hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3to 300 mm Hg),particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0063] "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratinous fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and specifically having a vapor pressure lower than 10'3mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0064] Preferably, the oil is chosen from polyester-type hydrocarbon oils, ether-type oils, and monoester-type oils.

[0065] Polyester-type oil

[0066] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyester oil.

[0067] A polyester oil is an oil comprising at least two ester functions.

[0068] Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 - 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0069] A polyester oil according to the invention is preferably of formula Z-[C(O)-O-R]mor of formula Z’-[O-C(O)-R]m, with m representing an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably equal to 2, 3 or 4, advantageously m = 3, R representing a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated chain comprising 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, Z is the residue of a carboxylic diacid or a carboxylic polyacid (compound comprising at least three COOH functions), linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and Z’ is the residue of a diol or a polyol (compound comprising at least three OH functions), linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms.

[0070] Among the polyester oils, we can distinguish:

[0071] - diesters, specifically comprising between 6 and 60 carbon atoms in total, particularly between 18 and 50 carbon atoms in total. Diesters of carboxylic diacid and of monoalcohols can specifically be used, particularly diesters of a carboxylic diacid in C2-C8 and a monoalcohol in C2-C8, optionally hydroxylated, such as diisopropyl adipate, diethyl-2 hexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate or diisostearyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl succinate; or diesters of glycol and monoacids such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate

[0072] - triesters, specifically comprising between 6 and 70 carbon atoms in total, particularly such as triesters of carboxylic triacid, specifically in C2-C8, and an alcohol, specifically in C2-Cs, optionally hydroxylated such as citric acid esters like trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyltributyl citrate, or tridecyl trimellitate, or triesters of glycol and monoacids such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

[0073] - tetraesters, specifically having a total number of carbon atoms ranging from 35 to 70, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and a monoacid, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate, for example;

[0074] - polyesters resulting from the esterification of at least one triglyceride of hydroxylated carboxylic acid(s) by an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated like castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid; and

[0075] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as triglycerides of fatty acids (liquid at room temperature), specifically of fatty acids having 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; in particular, we can mention saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and their mixtures, for example, such as the one marketed under the reference Myritol 318 by Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, Cis-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois, coco-caprylate / caprate, and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil.

[0076] Preferably the polyester oils are chosen from vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid triglycerides (liquids at room temperature), particularly fatty acids with 7 to 40 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, in particular saturated triglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride and mixtures thereof, for example such as that marketed under the reference Myritol 318 by Cognis, glyceryl triheptanoate, glycerin trioctanoate, C18-36 acid triglycerides such as those marketed under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stearineries Dubois, coco-caprylate / caprate and unsaturated triglycerides such as castor oil, olive oil, ximenia oil, and pracaxi oil.

[0077] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not include jojoba oil.

[0078] Preferably, the polyester oil according to the invention is chosen from vegetable hydrocarbon oils, preferably from saturated triglycerides, advantageously is caprylic / capric triglyceride.

[0079] The polyester-type oil is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, preferably from 3% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Ether-type oil

[0080] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one ether oil.

[0081] Preferably, the one or more ether-type oils are chosen from the oils of formula Ra’-O-Rb’, wherein Ra’ and Rb’, identical or different, preferably identical, are such that Ra’ represents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb’ represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the sum of the carbon atoms of Ra’ and Rb’ being between 10 and 30, preferably between 12 and 20, such as 16, advantageously is dicaprylyl ether.

[0082] The ether-type oil is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Monoester-type oil

[0084] According to certain embodiments, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one monoester oil, specifically a monoester oil of formula Ra-C(O)-ORb wherein Rarepresents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the sum of the carbon atoms of Raand Rb being greater than or equal to 10, preferably between 15 and 40; preferably Rarepresents the residue of a linear saturated fatty acid containing 12 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably Rb represents a saturated chain, containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0085] As preferred monoesters, we can mention isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isocetyl stearate, advantageously being isocetyl stearate.

[0086] The monoester oil is preferably present in an amount ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] Preferably, the composition comprises the mixture of at least one first oil, chosen from polyester oils as defined above, at least one second oil, chosen from ether oils as defined above, and at least one third oil, chosen from monoester oils as defined above;advantageously, the first oil is a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, the second oil is dicaprylyl ether, and the third oil is isocetyl stearate.

[0088] Preferably, the mass ratio between the first oil and the second oil ranges from 0.5 to 8.0, preferably from 0.8 to 5.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the first oil and the third oil ranges from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the second oil and the third oil ranges from 0.05 to 2.0, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2.

[0089] The composition may further comprise one or more oils chosen from: fatty alcohols with a linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 10 to 26 carbon atoms; fatty acids with a linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 10 to 26 carbon atoms, specifically fatty acids in C16-C24, and their mixtures.

[0090] Preferably, the composition relative to the total weight of the composition comprises a total of 1 % to 40% by weight of oils, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 8% to 15% by weight.

[0091] The oil content corresponds in particular to the sum of the mass contents of polyester-type oil(s) and / or ether-type oil(s) and / or monoester oil(s).

[0092] Preferably, the oils of the composition are natural, and preferably of plant origin. Preferably, the mass ratio between the oil(s) and the compound of formula (I) and / or (I’) ranges from 5 to 30, preferably from 8 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20, preferably from 12 to 18.

[0093] When the composition comprises at least two oils, this ratio takes into account all the oils in the composition, preferably taking into account the total content of the first oil, second oil, and third oil.

[0094] Fillers

[0095] The composition according to the invention comprises c) at least one filler.

[0096] "Filler" means an ingredient that, when added to the formula, makes it possible to modify its physical properties, improving its spreadability, texture, appearance (opacifying, transparency, matifying, etc.) or improving its volume, without having a direct effect on the substrate, specifically the skin.

[0097] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the filler(s) is(are) mineral. We can specifically mention talc, mica, kaolin, silica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as calcium carbonate.According to another embodiment, the filler(s) is(are) organic, of natural or synthetic origin. We can particularly mention corn, rice, and wheat starches, and nylon particles or poly(Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl and their mixture.

[0098] Preferably, the filler(s) is(are) chosen from cellulose particles, silica, starches, kaolin, clays, nylon particles, or poly(Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl such as poly(meth)acrylate of methyl, and their mixtures, preferably comprising silica, optionally in mixture with another filler, specifically a starch such as corn starch.

[0099] Preferably, the mass content of the filler(s) relative to the total weight of the composition ranges from 0.1% to 10% by weight of fillers, preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight.

[0100] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the optical properties of fillers, such as the mattness (i.e. reducing the glossy aspect of the skin) and / or the blurring effect (i.e. masking skin imperfections by diffusing light homogeneously) are improved compared to compositions that do not comprise spiculisporic acid.

[0101] Additional surfactants

[0102] The composition may further comprise at least one surfactant.

[0103] The surfactants can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic, zwitterionic, and amphoteric surfactants, preferably from the non-ionic surfactants.

[0104] Among non-ionic surfactants, we can specifically mention:

[0105] - C8-C20 fatty acids, such as stearic acid,

[0106] - sugar esters and ethers such as the mixture of cetearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols, like Montanov 68® from Seppic;

[0107] - ethoxylated methyl glucose esters such as PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;

[0108] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (specifically C8-C24 alcohol, preferably C12-C18) such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), the oxyethylenated ether of the mixture of 012-015 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "012-15 Pareth-7") specifically marketed under the name of NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;- esters of fatty acids (specifically C8-C24 acid, preferably C16-C22) and polyol, specifically glycerol or sorbitol, or monoester derivative of polyol such as monoesters of polyol and polyacid, specifically monoesters of glycerol or sorbitol and citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, such as glyceryl stearate like the product sold under the name of TEGIN M® by GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate like the product sold under the name of IMWITOR 312® by HLILS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl monocitrate stearate;

[0109] - esters such as monoesters, diesters, or triesters, preferably monoesters, of fatty acids (specifically C8-C24acid, preferably C10-C20) and polyglycerol comprising 1 to 12 glycerol units, preferably 2 to 10 glycerol units, for example, polyglyceryl-4 caprate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate;

[0110] - alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), which are preferably those whose number of ethylene oxide (EG) units varies from 2 to 200. As an example, we can mention cetyl ether 23 EO, oleyl ether 50 EO, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth 40, steareth 100, and beheneth 100;

[0111] - alkyl ethers in C16-C24 polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and (1-30 PO) polyoxypropylenated (C16-C24), such as PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30,

[0112] - polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated) fatty acid esters, for example, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, optionally in association with a fatty acid ester and glycerol such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed by Croda under the name of Arlacel 165®, for example;

[0113] - esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose, or fructose such as sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, and sucrose tristearate and their mixtures, such as the products sold by Croda under the name of Crodesta F50, F70, F110, and F160®;

[0114] - esters of fatty acids (specifically C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, specifically sold under the name of Simulsol 220 TM® by SEPPIC, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate, specifically marketed under the name of MYRJ 52P® by ICI UNIQUEMA; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, like the product TAGAT S®, sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, like the product TAGAT O®, sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, like the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxidegroups, like the product TAGAT L®, sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups, like the product TAGAT I® from Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT,

[0115] - esters of fatty acids (specifically C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (which may contain 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20, specifically sold under the name of Tween 20® by CRODA, polysorbate 60, specifically sold under the name of Tween 60® by CRODA,

[0116] - dimethicone copolyol, such as that sold under the name of Q2-5220® by DOW CORNING,

[0117] - dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101® and 201® from FINTEX), - propylene oxide and ethylene oxide copolymers, also called OE / OP polycondensates,

[0118] and their mixtures.

[0119] Preferably, the surfactant is chosen from esters, preferably monoesters, of C8-C24 fatty acids and polyol, specifically glycerol or sorbitol, or monoester derivative of polyol such as monoesters of polyol and polyacid, specifically monoesters of glycerol or sorbitol and citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, preferably a monoester of C8-C24 fatty acids and glyceryl monocitrate, advantageously chosen from glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl monocitrate stearate.

[0120] The surfactant is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] Physiologically acceptable aqueous medium

[0122] The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. Said medium comprises water.

[0123] The water used can be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water, or lime water and / or thermal or natural mineral water, such as: Vittel water, Vichy basin waters, Uriage water, La Roche Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, and Tercis-les-bains water, Avene water.The composition preferably comprises at least 5% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight.

[0124] The composition preferably comprises from 20% to 95% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 50% to 90%, even more preferably from 60% to 85%.

[0125] The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C.

[0126] Preferably, the organic solvent miscible in water is chosen from alcohols, polyols, and their mixtures.

[0127] Among alcohols, we can mention C1-C10 alcohols, more preferably C1-C5 such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, and butanol.

[0128] The polyol is preferably chosen from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycols having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and their mixtures.

[0129] The composition can comprise from 1% to 25% of organic solvent miscible in water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight.

[0130] In particular, the composition comprises at least one humectant, preferably glycerol, in an amount less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.

[0131] Other ingredients

[0132] Each composition may contain one or more of the usual actives or excipients in the cosmetic fields different from the filler c) and dermatological, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; gelling agents such as natural gelling agents; actives; antioxidants; thickeners; perfumes; film-forming agents; colorants; sequestrants; electrolytes; pH adjusters; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and their mixtures. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the considered fields. In particular, these quantities vary according to the desired goal and can range from 0.01% to 20%, for example, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0133] Of course, the skilled person will ensure choosing the possible actives or excipients added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous propertiesintrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially altered by the intended addition.

[0134] As thickeners, we can mention silicones, in particular, poly(di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)siloxanes such as dimethicone or PDMS, and poly(di)(Ci-C4)(alkyl)cyclosiloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicones, silicone polyethers, and cationic silicones, carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols® (Carbomers) and Pemulen such as Pemulen TR1® and Pemulen TR2® (acrylate / C10-C30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer); polyacrylamides such as crosslinked copolymers sold under the name of Sepigel 305® (C.T.F.A. name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600® (C.T.F.A. name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) marketed by Hoechst under the commercial name of "Hostacerin AMPS®" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate) or SIMULGEL 800® marketed by SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS® and SEPINOV EMT 10® marketed by SEPPIC, celluloses, specifically (hydroxy)(C1-C4)(alkyl)cellulose, such as hydroxyethylcellulose; polysaccharides and specifically carrageenan and gums such as xanthan gum; and mixtures thereof.

[0135] The thickeners are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight.

[0136] The composition according to the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by the skilled person.

[0137] The expression "at least one..." implies "one or more..." and "between... and..." and "ranging from... to..." should be understood as inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.

[0138] Concrete, but not limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

[0139] EXAMPLES

[0140] Example 1 :

[0141] The composition C3 according to the invention and the comparative compositions C1*, C2*, and C4* of Tables 1 and 2 below are prepared according to the following protocol:- Dissolve spiculisporic acid in the organic base in the presence of water at room temperature, with a magnetic stirrer;

[0142] - Add glyceryl caprylate or glyceryl stearate and citrate to the previous mixture under magnetic stirrer agitation at room temperature or solubilization temperature of the surfactant;

[0143] - Add glycols under magnetic stirrer agitation at room temperature;

[0144] - Add oils to the previous mixture under rotor-stator agitation at 2000 rpm for 10 minutes at room temperature;

[0145] - Add the gelling agent to the emulsion under rotor-stator agitation at 2000 rpm at room temperature;

[0146] - Add the remaining water with solubilized actives and preservatives, then fillers and ethanol under rotor-stator agitation at 2500 rpm at room temperature.

[0147] [Table 1]

[0148]

[0149] [Table 2]

[0150]

[0151]

[0152] These compositions were tested by corneometry, which makes it possible to evaluate their effect on the hydration level of the upper layers of the skin by repeated measurements of its dielectric capacitance, after single or repeated skin application, with an untreated area serving as a control.

[0153] The hydration rate measurements are carried out using a CORNEOMETER® CM 825 PC CORNEOMETER (COURAGE + KHAZAKA).

[0154] The 2mg / cm2application is done with a finger cot, then massaged with the fingertip until complete penetration. Complete penetration is considered to be when a drag sensation appears. The waiting time before measurement is 1 hour, and 3 wipes are performed before measurement.

[0155] The test was conducted on 4 volunteers.

[0156] The C4* formula serves as a positive reference for this test, and a bare skin area serves as a negative reference.

[0157] The results obtained are as follows:

[0158] [Table 3]

[0159]

[0160] These results show that the combination of spiculisporic acid with one or more oils (preferably isopropyl stearate, caprylic / capric triglycerides and dicaprylyl ether) in the presence of a low glycerin content (5%) makes possible a hydration level significantly higher than the hydration reference C4* that contains 7% glycerin. The addition of 1.5% fillers to the mixture (composition C3) makes it possible to maintain a hydration level higher than the hydration reference C4* that contains 7% glycerin.

[0161] Example 2:

[0162] The compositions C5 and C6 according to the invention and the comparative compositions 07* and C8* of Tables 4 and 5 below are prepared using a similar protocol to example 1.

[0163] [Table 4]

[0164]

[0165] [Table 5]

[0166]

[0167] These compositions were tested by the following protocols.

[0168] To measure gloss at 60°, a 30 pm thick film of each composition was formed on an uncoated contrast card using a film applicator, then oven-dried at 37°C for24h. Three gloss measurements are then taken using a glossmeter.

[0169] To measure Haze, a 25.4pm thick film was formed on a transparent plastic film (Byk) using a film spreader, then oven-dried at 37°C for 5 minutes. Three haze measurements are then taken using a Hazegard.The results obtained are as follows:

[0170] [Table 6]

[0171]

[0172] As can be seen from these results, the combination of spiculisporic acid with fillers of various types (combination of silica and starch or starch alone) leads to an improvement of the mattness (or a reduction of the gloss) of the composition, as well as an improvement of the blurring properties (quantified by the haze).

Claims

CLAIMS1. A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, specifically for the care of keratinous materials, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:a) at least one compound of formula (I) and / or (I’), and / or their stereoisomers, and / or their salts and / or their solvates, such as hydrates:wherein R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and M+represents a cationic counterion,b) at least one oil, andc) at least one filler.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein a) the compound of formula (I) and / or (I’) is such that R’ represents a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated group, comprising 4 to 16, particularly 5 to 14, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms such as nonyl, and M+represents a cationic counter-ion, in particular represents the conjugate acid or the counter-cation of a base chosen from organic and inorganic bases, preferably represents an alkali metal such as sodium and potassium, an alkaline earth metal such as calcium, or the ammonium ion; more preferably, is spiculisporicand / or any of its stereoisomers, and / or any of its salts, and / or any of its solvates.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein b) the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based polyester oils, ether-type oils, and monoester-type oils.

4. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oil comprises a polyester oil of formula Z-[C(O)-O-R]mor of formula Z’-[O-C(O)-R]m, with m representing an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably equal to 2, 3, or 4, advantageously m = 3, R representing a linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, saturated or unsaturated chain comprising 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, Z is the residue of a carboxylic diacid or a carboxylic polyacid, linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and Z’ is the residue of a diol or a polyol linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably the polyester oil is chosen from vegetable hydrocarbon oils, preferably from saturated triglycerides, advantageously is caprylic / capric triglyceride.

5. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil comprises an ether-type oil of formula Ra’-O-Rb’, wherein Ra’ and Rb’, identical or different, preferably identical, are such that Ra’ represents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb’ represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the sum of the carbon atoms of Ra’ and Rb’ being between 10 and 30, preferably between 12 and 20, such as 16; advantageously, is dicaprylyl ether.

6. The composition according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the oil comprises a monoester oil of formula Ra-C(O)-ORb wherein Rarepresents the residue of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, Rb represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, specifically branched, saturated or unsaturated containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, the sum of the carbon atoms of Raand Rb being greater than or equal to 10, preferably between 15 and 40; preferably Rarepresents the residue of a linear saturated fatty acid containing 12 to 20 carbon atoms and preferably Rb represents a saturated chain containing 12 to 24 carbon atoms; advantageously, is isocetyl stearate.

7. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the oil is a mixture of at least one first oil chosen from polyester-type oils according to claim 4, at least one second oil chosen from ether-type oils according to claim 5, and at least one third oil chosen from monoester oils according to claim 6; advantageously, the first oil is atriglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, the second oil is dicaprylyl ether and the third oil is isocetyl stearate.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the mass ratio between the first oil and the second oil ranges from 0.5 to 8.0, preferably from 0.8 to 5.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the first oil and the third oil ranges from 0.1 to 3.0, preferably from 0.2 to 2.0, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2 and / or the mass ratio between the second oil and the third oil ranges from 0.05 to 2.0, preferably from 0.1 to 1.5, advantageously from 0.8 to 1.2.

9. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, which further comprises one or more oils chosen from fatty alcohols with a linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 10 to 26 carbon atoms; fatty acids with a linear or branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 10 to 26 carbon atoms, specifically fatty acids in C16-C24, and their mixtures.

10. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising from 1% to 40% of oil by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 8% to 15% by weight.

11. The composition according to any of the preceding claims wherein the oils are natural, and preferably of plant origin.

12. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio between the oil(s) and the compound of formula (I) and / or (I’) ranges from 5 to 30, preferably from 8 to 25, preferably from 10 to 20, preferably from 12 to 18.

13. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein c) the filler is chosen from: mineral fillers, specifically talc, mica, kaolin, silica, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and carbonates of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as calcium carbonate; organic fillers of natural or synthetic origin specifically corn, rice and wheat starches, and nylon particles or poly(C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl particles and their mixture; preferably, c) the filler(s) is(are) chosen from cellulose particles, silica, starches, kaolin, clays, nylon particles or poly(C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl particles such as methylpoly(meth)acrylate, and their mixtures, preferably the filler c) is silica, optionally in mixture with another filler, specifically a starch such as corn starch.

14. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1% to 10% of filler(s) c), by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight.

15. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising a surfactant chosen from esters, preferably monoesters, of fatty acids in C8-C24 and of polyol, specifically glycerol or sorbitol, or monoester derivative of polyol such as monoesters of polyol and polyacid, specifically monoesters of glycerol or of sorbitol and citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, preferably a monoester of fatty acids in C8-C24 and glyceryl monocitrate, advantageously chosen from glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl monocitrate stearate.

16. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one humectant, preferably glycerol, in an amount less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition according to any of the preceding claims, in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, preferably oil-in-water.

18. A cosmetic process for the care of keratinous materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of a composition according to any of claims 1 to 17.

19. A use of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 17 to moisturize keratinous materials on which the composition is applied.

20. The use of the composition according to any of claims 1 to 17 to prevent the appearance and / or reduce the number of acne-related imperfections on keratinous materials.

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