Cosmetic composition for photoprotection of the skin and / or hair and method for preparing same

Abstract

The present invention relates to the use of a polyricinoleic acid as a solubilisation potentiator for a chemical sunscreen agent and as an SPF activator for a chemical sunscreen agent. The present invention also relates to novel cosmetic sunscreen formulations comprising a polyricinoleic acid and at least one chemical sunscreen agent.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic composition for the photoprotection of skin and / or hair and its preparation process

[0002] The present invention relates to the use of a potentiating element for the solubilization of a chemical sunscreen agent which also acts as an activator of the SPF of a chemical sunscreen agent.

[0003] The present invention also relates to new cosmetic sun protection formulations comprising a potentiating element for the solubilization of a chemical sun protection agent and at least one chemical sun protection agent, and its preparation process.

[0004] Sunscreen formulations are used as cosmetic products to protect the skin from damage caused by UV rays. The index commonly used to determine the protective value of a sunscreen is the sun protection factor (SPF). The sun protection factor (SPF) is defined as the ratio between the amount of energy required to produce minimal erythema on skin protected by sunscreen and the amount of energy required to produce the same level of erythema on unprotected skin.

[0005] UV rays that cause skin damage can be both UVA and UVB rays. Cosmetic products with increased or enhanced SPF are important for providing better skin protection against harmful UVB rays.

[0006] To achieve complete protection against UV rays, it is almost always necessary to combine several chemical UV filters, as some chemical UV filters are only effective against UVB rays, while others only block UVA rays. Furthermore, some chemical UV filters can degrade rapidly when exposed to sunlight, reducing their effectiveness and requiring very frequent application. Mineral UV filters, also called physical filters, are ingredients that also protect the skin from the sun's harmful UV rays by creating a physical barrier on the skin's surface.

[0007] However, several chemical UV filters are particularly interesting due to their photoprotective power and are widely used today. These include 2,4,6-tris p-(2'-ethylhexyl-l'-oxycarbonyl)anilino-l,3,5-triazine, 4-(ter-butyl) 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, and Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone. These are lipophilic filters, highly active against UVB and / or UVA rays, but they are solid at room temperature. Therefore, their use in sunscreen formulations imposes certain constraints on their design and application, particularly when it comes to finding solvents that can properly dissolve them.

[0008] Mineral UV filters have undeniable advantages, as they are photo-stable and opaque, unlike chemical filters which are not always so.

[0009] Furthermore, they remain on the surface of the skin, making them less likely to cause allergic reactions.

[0010] Furthermore, mineral UV filters have a smaller and more reversible environmental impact than chemical UV filters.

[0011] Currently, there are two mineral UV filters that are widely used: titanium dioxide (TiO2) and zinc oxide (ZnO).

[0012] Titanium dioxide is the most widely used mineral UV filter.

[0013] The size of titanium dioxide particles also plays a role in the amount of UV absorbed, with smaller particles absorbing more UV due to their semiconducting properties.

[0014] Particle sizes of 30 to 100 nm (nano) allow for the production of solar products with a transparent finish.

[0015] However, a decrease in particle size can shift UV absorption towards shorter wavelengths, thus reducing UVA spectrum coverage. There are also two types of titanium dioxide depending on their application: hydrophilic titanium dioxide (made water-dispersible by a surface treatment, for example, including silica or alumina) and hydrophobic titanium dioxide (made oil-dispersible by a surface treatment, for example, including silicones, silanes, or alumina).

[0016] Zinc oxide is the second most widely used mineral UV filter. Although it has the same mode of action as titanium dioxide, it produces a less white cast and is also less effective, as it primarily blocks UVA rays and much less UVB rays.

[0017] Furthermore, the application of dispersions containing zinc oxide can be more challenging than those containing titanium dioxide due to a difference in density. Like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide exists in both hydrophobic and hydrophilic forms. Also like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide is available in ultrafine particle sizes (20-80 nm), which helps prevent a white cast on the skin.

[0018] In practice, mineral filters are often added to formulations intended to become sunscreen formulations in the form of premixes.

[0019] Polyricinoleic acid, sometimes used in the form of polyglycerol polyricinoleate, is an emulsifier used, more particularly, to stabilize water-in-oil emulsions.

[0020] The inventors of the present application have observed, surprisingly, that when at least one polyricinoleic acid is incorporated into a sunscreen comprising at least one chemical sunscreen agent such as a lipophilic sunscreen filter, active in UV-B and / or UV-A, and which may have the particularity and disadvantage of being solid at room temperature, i.e. at 20-25°C, said at least one polyricinoleic acid has an improved solubilizing power with respect to solid organic UV filters and is capable of increasing the solubilization rate of lipophilic sunscreens, which constitutes an advantage on the scale of industrial production.

[0021] The inventors of the present application have also surprisingly observed that, when at least one polyricinoleic acid is incorporated into a sunscreen comprising at least one chemical sunscreen agent such as a lipophilic sunscreen filter, active in UV-B and / or UV-A, it is able to enhance the SPF while maintaining the sensory qualities and stability of said sunscreen.

[0022] Thus, a first object of the present invention is the use of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids as a potentiator of the solubilization of a chemical sunscreen agent. A second object of the present invention is the use of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids as an activator of the SPF of a chemical sunscreen agent.

[0023] A third object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for topical use, in particular for the photoprotection of the skin and / or hair, comprising at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids and at least one chemical sunscreen agent.

[0024] A fourth object of the present invention is a method for preparing a cosmetic composition for topical use comprising at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids and at least one chemical sunscreen agent and optionally at least one mineral UV filter.

[0025] For the purposes of this description, an interval described by the expression "from [...] to [...]" includes the bounds. For example, the interval "from 1 to 2" includes the two values ​​"1" and "2" as well as all values ​​that are both strictly greater than 1 and strictly less than 2.

[0026] In this description, the term "approximately" preceding a numeric value means that the value can be changed by plus or minus 10%. In the specific case of a numeric value acting as an interval boundary, the term "approximately" means that the lower boundary can be reduced by 10% or the upper boundary can be increased by 10%. It is also possible to omit the term "approximately" preceding a numeric value.

[0027] For the purposes of this invention, a chemical sunscreen is an organic UV filter capable of absorbing harmful UV rays. These filters generally possess conjugated systems such as aromatic rings, carbonyl or carbon double bonds that enable UV absorption. Each filter blocks a specific range of UV wavelengths, and the blocked wavelength range is characteristic of each of these chemical UV filters. Detailed description of the invention

[0028] A first particular object of the present invention is the use of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1)

[0029]

[0030] as a potentiator of the solubilization of a chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic.

[0031] Preferably the degree of polymerization n in formula (1) is an integer chosen from 1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 10, even more preferably from 5 to 7, even more preferably 5.

[0032] In a preferred embodiment, at least one polyricinoleic acid according to formula (1) is used to increase the solubilization at room temperature of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent.

[0033] In another preferred embodiment, a single polyricinoleic acid according to formula (1) is used to increase the solubilization at room temperature of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent.

[0034] In a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) is used to increase the solubilization at room temperature of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent.

[0035] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), and at least one ester, chosen preferably from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Cera phyl 45) is used as a potentiator of the solubilization of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent or to increase the solubilization at room temperature of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent, compared to at least one ester alone, and optionally at least one mineral UV filter.

[0036] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) with n from 5 to 7, and at least one ester, chosen preferably from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), is used as a potentiator of the solubilization of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent or to increase the solubilization at room temperature of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0037] and optionally at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, as opposed to at least one ester alone.

[0038] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), and at least one ester, preferably selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate, Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and mixtures thereof, is used as a potentiator of the solubilization of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent or to increase the solubilization at room temperature of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0039] and optionally at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, as opposed to at least one ester alone. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) with n from 5 to 7, and at least one ester, selected preferably from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V), and Dibutyl Adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima), and mixtures thereof, is used as a potentiator of the solubilization of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen or to increase the solubilization at room temperature of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and optionally at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, as opposed to at least one ester alone.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from preferably Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used to potentiate the solubilization or increase the solubilization at room temperature of an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight. weight, preferably 5 to 7% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic,relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally an amount of 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone.

[0041] According to a particular embodiment, an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from preferably Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used to potentiate solubilization or to increase solubilization at room temperature by an amount of 0.5 at 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 5 to 7% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen agent,preferably lipophilic, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone.

[0042] According to a preferred embodiment, an amount of 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n ranging from 5 to 7 relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from, preferably, Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide, or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used to potentiate the solubilization or to increase the solubilization at room temperature of an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 6 to 9% by weight, of at least 10% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. less one chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone. According to a preferred embodiment, 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n from 5 to 7 relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight of at least one ester chosen preferably from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B),Decyl oleate (cetiol V) and dibutyl adipate, diisopropryl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (Dub Helioptima), and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used to potentiate solubilization or to increase solubilization at room temperature by an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 6 to 9% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, of a preference for 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide,and their mixtures, compared to at least one ester alone.

[0043] According to a preferred embodiment, 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n from 5 to 7 relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and 10 to 20% by weight, preferably 18% by weight, of a mixture of esters selected from preferably Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition are used to potentiate the solubilization or to increase the solubilization at room temperature of 9% by weight of a mixture of chemical sunscreens selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone.

[0044] Unless otherwise stipulated, in this application any reference to the states "solid" and "liquid" is understood to mean under normal temperature and pressure conditions, i.e. 20-25°C and approximately 1024 hectopascals.

[0045] A second particular object of the present invention is the use of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1)

[0046]

[0047] as an activator of the SPF of a preferably lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent.

[0048] Preferably the degree of polymerization n in formula (1) is an integer chosen from 1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 10, even more preferably from 5 to 7, even more preferably 5.

[0049] In a preferred embodiment, at least one polyricinoleic acid according to formula (1) is used as an SPF activator of the action of a chemical sunscreen agent.

[0050] In another preferred embodiment, a single polyricinoleic acid according to formula (1) is used as an SPF activator of the action of a chemical sunscreen agent. In a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) is used as an SPF activator of the action of a chemical sunscreen agent.

[0051] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), and at least one ester, chosen preferably from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45) is used as an SPF activator of the action of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent and optionally of at least one mineral UV filter.

[0052] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) with n from 5 to 7, and at least one ester, chosen preferably from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), is used as an SPF activator of the action of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent chosen from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0053] and optionally at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, as opposed to at least one ester alone.

[0054] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), and at least one ester, preferably selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V), and Dibutyl Adipate, Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima), and mixtures thereof, is used as an SPF activator of the action of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and optionally at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to to at least one ester alone.

[0055] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) with n from 5 to 7, and at least one ester, preferably selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V), and Dibutyl Adipate, Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima), and mixtures thereof, is used as an SPF activator of the action of a lipophilic chemical sunscreen selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and optionally at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, oxide of zinc, and their mixtures, compared to at least one ester alone.

[0056] According to a particular embodiment, an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from preferably Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition are used as an SPF activator of the action of an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 5 to 7% by weight of at least one chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition,and optionally an amount of 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight, of at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone. According to a particular embodiment, an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from preferably Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V), and Dibutyl Adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and their mixtures,relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, at least one chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic, is used as an SPF activator, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25%, preferably 15 to 20%, of at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone.

[0057] According to a preferred embodiment, an amount of 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n ranging from 5 to 7 relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from, preferably, Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide, or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used as an SPF activator of the action of an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 6 to 9% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone. According to a preferred embodiment, 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n from 5 to 7 relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight of at least one ester chosen preferably from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B),Decyl oleate (cetiol V) and dibutyl adipate, diisopropryl adipate, propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate (Dub Helioptima), and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used as SPF activators in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 6 to 9% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight. weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, compared to at least one ester alone.

[0058] According to a preferred embodiment, 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n ranging from 5 to 7, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and 10 to 20% by weight, preferably 18% by weight, of a mixture of esters selected from preferably Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V), and Dibutyl Adipate, Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, are used as an SPF activator of the action of 9% by weight of a mixture of chemical sunscreens selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane,relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, relative to at least one ester alone.

[0059] In all these embodiments, the degree of polymerization "n" of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) is preferably chosen from 5 to 7, more preferably is equal to 5, 6 and / or 7.

[0060] For example, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) used to increase the solubilization at room temperature, i.e. at 20-25°C, of ​​a lipophilic chemical sunscreen agent, preferably solid at room temperature, comprises a mixture of trimers (n=1), quadrimers (n=2), pentamers (n=3), hexamers (n=4), heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7), preferably a mixture of heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7), or a mixture of heptamers (n=5) and octamers (n=6), or a mixture of octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7).

[0061] Polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) can be prepared by esterification from ricinoleic acid, for example, from 100% bio-derived castor oil. The resulting polyricinoleic acid is oxidation-stable and non-volatile, with an amorphous structure. Polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) are commercially available, such as the ChemSperse™ product from Chemspire (New Jersey, USA).

[0062] Polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) may be derived from R-ricinoleic acid, S-ricinoleic acid, or mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) contain more than 70% by weight of the stereoisomer of R-ricinoleic acid. In another preferred embodiment, polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) contain more than 70% by weight of the stereoisomer of S-ricinoleic acid.

[0063] In the context of the invention, "SPF (sun protection factor) activator of a chemical sunscreen agent" means the action of increasing the value of the sun protection factor (SPF) which measures the degree of protection against UV rays of a chemical sunscreen in a cosmetic sunscreen formulation.

[0064] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the FPS activator comprises as a main component at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1).

[0065] The degree of sun protection provided by sunscreens is traditionally estimated using the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) test, which uses the skin's erythemal response to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The SPF is a ratio calculated from the energies required to induce a minimal erythemal response with or without application of sunscreen to the skin of human subjects participating in the tests. It uses ultraviolet radiation, usually from an artificial source with electromagnetic radiation in the 290 nm to 320 nm range. For the purposes of this application, in vivo studies to determine the Sun Protection Factor were conducted according to ISO 24444.

[0066] By "lipophilic organic filter" we mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound that filters UV radiation and can be totally dissolved in molecular form in a liquid oil phase or solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid oil phase.

[0067] Lipophilic organic filters are selected in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; 13,13-diphenyl acrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in US patent 5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US2463264; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds as described in patents US5237071 and EP893119; benzoxazole compounds as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and filter silicones such as those described in particular in application WO-93 / 04665; α-alkylstyrene derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649;4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds as described in applications EP0967200, EP1133980, EP-A-1008586, EP133981; and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Preferably, the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) are selected from among cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; 13,13-diphenyl acrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds; methylene bis-(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; filter polymers; filtering silicones; α-alkylstyrene derivative dimers; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds and mixtures thereof; preferably salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and their mixtures.

[0069] In a particular manner, the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) is / are combined with ferulic acid, ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives used in cosmetic compositions.

[0070] According to another particular embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1)

[0071] as a potentiator of the solubilization of a chemical sunscreen agent or as an activator of the SPF of a chemical sunscreen agent,

[0072] in which the chemical sunscreen agent is chosen

[0073] among butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, ferulic acid, ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0074] In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) as a potentiator of the solubilization of a chemical sunscreen agent or as an activator of the SPF of a chemical sunscreen agent,

[0075] in which the mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) comprises or is made up of hexamers (n = 4), heptamers (n = 5), octamers (n = 6) and nonamers (n = 7), preferably a mixture of heptamers (n = 5), octamers (n = 6) and nonamers (n = 7), or a mixture of heptamers (n = 5), and octamers (n = 6) or a mixture of octamers (n = 6) and nonamers (n = 7),

[0076] in which the chemical sunscreen agent is selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0077] In a particular embodiment, the present invention relates to the use of a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) as a potentiator of the solubilization of a chemical sunscreen agent or as an activator of the SPF of a chemical sunscreen agent,

[0078] in which the mass ratio between at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) and at least one chemical sunscreen agent is from 0.05 to 1.2, preferably from 0.4 to 1.2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.15, even more preferably 0.55 or 1.11.

[0079] A third particular object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical use, in particular for the photoprotection of the skin and / or hair, comprising at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1)

[0080] <

[0081]

[0082] n, the degree of polymerization is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 10, even more preferably from 5 to 7, even more preferably 5

[0083] and at least one chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic.

[0084] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyricinoleic acid mixture according to formula (1) comprises a mixture of trimers (n=1), quadrimers (n=2), pentamers (n=3), hexamers (n=4), heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7), preferably a mixture of heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7), or a mixture of heptamers (n=5) and octamers (n=6), or a mixture of octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7).

[0085] According to a preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 0.5 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 2 to 10% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 5 to 7% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen, preferably lipophilic, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0086] According to another particular embodiment, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for topical use, in which the chemical sunscreen agent is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexylbutamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, ferulic acid, ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof,

[0087] preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0088] According to a preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) and at least one chemical sunscreen agent, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, ferulic acid, ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof,

[0089] preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0090] According to another preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) which comprises a mixture of trimers (n=1), quadrimers (n=2), pentamers (n=3), hexamers (n=4), heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6), and nonamers (n=7), preferably a mixture of heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6), and nonamers (n=7), or a mixture of heptamers (n=5) and octamers (n=6), or a mixture of octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7), and at least one chemical sunscreen agent, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl paba, peg-25 paba, ferulic acid,ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof,

[0091] preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0092] According to another preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, of a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, which comprises a mixture of trimers (n=1), quadrimers (n=2), pentamers (n=3), hexamers (n=4), heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6), and nonamers (n=7), preferably a mixture of heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6), and nonamers (n=7), or a mixture of heptamers (n=5) and octamers (n=6), or a mixture of octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n = 7), and

[0093] and at least 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 5 to 7% by weight of a chemical sunscreen agent relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, ferulic acid, ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

[0094] According to a particular embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises one or more additional sunscreens active in UV-A and / or UV-B, hydrophilic or lipophilic, other, of course, than the lipophilic filters mentioned above. These additional filters may be selected, in particular, from salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, 3,3-diphenylacrylate derivatives, p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, cinnamic derivatives, benzotriazole derivatives, sulfonic acid derivatives, and ferulic acid derivatives.

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide and mixtures of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. In one embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is titanium dioxide. In another embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is zinc oxide. In yet another embodiment, at least one mineral UV filter is a mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

[0096] In one embodiment, the mass percentage of at least one mineral UV filter is from about 2% to about 50%, preferably from about 5% to about 30%, preferably from about 10% to about 20%, preferably from about 5% to about 15%, preferably from about 25% to about 28%, preferably about 26%, relative to the total mass of said oily phase.

[0097] In one embodiment, the oily phase comprises both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, with a mass ratio of titanium dioxide to zinc oxide of approximately 0.1 to approximately 5.0, preferably of approximately 0.5 to approximately 4.5, preferably of approximately 1.0 to approximately 4.0, preferably of approximately 1.5 to approximately 3.5, preferably of approximately 2.0 to approximately 3.0, preferably of approximately 2.2 to approximately 2.6, preferably of approximately 2.4. In one embodiment, the rutile crystalline form of titanium dioxide is present at a mass percentage greater than 95%, preferably greater than 96%, preferably greater than 97%, preferably greater than 98%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total mass of titanium dioxide.

[0098] In one embodiment, the median size of the zinc oxide particles is from approximately 367 nanometers to approximately 1467 nanometers, preferably from approximately 330 nanometers to approximately 1100 nanometers, preferably from approximately 367 nanometers to approximately 1008 nanometers, preferably from approximately 458 nanometers to approximately 917 nanometers, preferably from approximately 550 nanometers to approximately 733 nanometers, preferably from approximately 587 nanometers to approximately 697 nanometers, preferably from approximately 623 nanometers to approximately 697 nanometers, preferably approximately 660 nanometers, and / or in one embodiment, the specific surface area of ​​the zinc oxide particles is from approximately 5 to approximately 23 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably from approximately 5 to approximately 17 square meters. per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 5 and approximately 16 square meters per cubic centimeter,preferably between approximately 7 and approximately 15 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 9 and approximately 12 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 9 and approximately 11 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 10 and approximately 11 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably approximately 10.5 square meters per cubic centimeter.

[0099] In one embodiment, the median particle size of the titanium dioxide is from approximately 100 to approximately 398 nanometers, preferably from approximately 89 to approximately 298 nanometers, preferably from approximately 100 to approximately 274 nanometers, preferably from approximately 124 to approximately 249 nanometers, preferably from approximately 149 to approximately 199 nanometers, preferably from approximately 159 to approximately 189 nanometers, preferably from approximately 169 to approximately 189 nanometers, preferably approximately 179 nanometers, and / or in one embodiment, the specific surface area of ​​the titanium dioxide particles is from approximately 52 to approximately 241 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably from approximately 52 to approximately 178 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably from approximately 52 to approximately 168 square meters per cubic centimeter. per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 73 and approximately 157 square meters per cubic centimeter,preferably ranging from approximately 94 to approximately 125 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably ranging from approximately 94 to approximately 115 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably ranging from approximately 105 to approximately 115 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably approximately 110 square meters per cubic centimeter.

[0100] In one embodiment, the median particle size of the titanium dioxide is from approximately 356 to approximately 1415 nanometers, preferably from approximately 316 to approximately 1061 nanometers, preferably from approximately 356 to approximately 975 nanometers, preferably from approximately 441 to approximately 885 nanometers, preferably from approximately 530 to approximately 709 nanometers, preferably from approximately 565 to approximately 673 nanometers, preferably from approximately 601 to approximately 673 nanometers, preferably approximately 639 nanometers, and / or in one embodiment, the specific surface area of ​​the titanium dioxide particles is from approximately 7 to approximately 32 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably from approximately 7 to approximately 24 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably from approximately 7 to approximately 23 square meters per cubic centimeter. cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 10 and approximately 21 square meters per cubic centimeter,preferably between approximately 13 and 17 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 13 and 15 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably between approximately 14 and 15 square meters per cubic centimeter, preferably approximately 14.8 square meters per cubic centimeter.

[0101] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant.

[0102] In at least one embodiment, the surfactant is an organic amphiphilic compound having at least one hydrophobic part and at least one hydrophilic part.

[0103] Preferably, the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. Even more preferably, the surfactant is selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants. In at least one embodiment, the surfactant is an anionic surfactant. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are ammonium lauryl ether sulfate or sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES).Examples of other suitable anionic surfactants are polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium laureth sulfate, isethionate, taurate, sodium C14-C16 olefin sulfonate, C12-C15 ammonium pareth sulfate, sodium myristyl ether sulfate or polyoxyethylene alkyl sulfates such as triethanolamine lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, disodium monooleamidosulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate or sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate.

[0104] In at least one embodiment, the surfactant is a nonionic surfactant. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from alkoxylated derivatives of fatty alcohols, alkylphenols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters, or fatty acid amides, in the C to C40 range, and having from about 1 to about 110 alkoxy groups. The alkoxy groups are selected from the group consisting of C2-C6 oxides and mixtures thereof, with ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, and mixtures thereof being preferred. The alkyl chain may be linear, branched, saturated, or unsaturated. Alkoxylated alcohols are preferred. Ethoxylated or propoxylated alcohols are particularly preferred. Alkoxylated alcohols may be used alone or in mixtures.

[0105] Other suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl glycosides, which are the condensation products of long-chain alcohols, for example C8-C30 alcohols, with sugar or starch polymers. Examples of alkyl glycosides are decylpolyglucoside and laurylpolyglucoside.

[0106] Other suitable non-ionic surfactants are glucamide surfactants.

[0107] Other suitable nonionic surfactants are sorbitan esters. Examples of sorbitan esters are sorbitan monopalmitate, Polysorbat 20, and Polysorbat 80. Preferred sorbitan esters are mono-, di-, tri-, or tetraesters, or mixtures thereof. Preferred sorbitan esters are mono-, di-, or triesters, or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferred sorbitan esters are mono- or diesters, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, sorbitan esters comprise mixtures of mono-, di-, tri-, and tetraesters. Even more preferably, sorbitan esters comprise mixtures of demono-, di-, and triesters. Most preferably, sorbitan esters comprise mixtures of mono- and diesters. Examples of sorbitan esters include sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan stearates, sorbitan monoisostearate, and sorbitan sesquioleate.

[0108] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is chosen from among glyceryl esters and polyglyceryl esters. Preferred glyceryl fatty acid esters are esters of glycerol and one or more C16-C22 fatty acids. Preferred glyceryl esters are glyceryl mono- or diesters, or mixtures thereof. The fatty acids may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. Examples of glyceryl fatty acid esters are glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, and glyceryl monobehenate.

[0109] Other suitable non-ionic surfactants are diethanolamides (DEAs). Examples of diethanolamides (DEAs) are isostearic acid DEA, lauric acid DEA, capric acid DEA, linoleic acid DEA, myristic acid DEA, oleic acid DEA, or stearic acid DEA. Other non-ionic surfactants are selected from the group consisting of fatty acid monoethanolamides such as coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, fatty acid monoisopropanolamides such as oleic acid monoisopropanolamide or lauric acid monoisopropanolamide, alkylamine oxides such as N-cocodimethylamine oxide, N-lauryldimethylamine oxide, N-myristyldimethylamine oxide or N-stearyldimethylamine oxide, N-acylamine oxides such as N-cocoamidopropyldimethylamine oxide or N-tallowamidopropyldimethylamine oxide, and N-alkoxyalkylamine oxides.

[0110] In at least one embodiment, the surfactant is an amphoteric surfactant.

[0111] The preferred amphoteric surfactants are betaine-based surfactants. In at least one embodiment, the surfactant is a betaine-based surfactant.

[0112] In preferred embodiments, the betaine-based surfactant is selected from among the C8 to C18 alkylbetaines. For example, the betaine-based surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cocodimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, lauryldimethylalphacarboxyethylbetaine, laTl

[0113] cetyldimethylcarboxymethylbetaine, oleyldimethylgammacarboxypropylbetaine, laurylbis(2-hydroxypropyl)alphacarboxyethylbetaine and their mixtures.

[0114] In preferred embodiments, the betaine-based surfactant is selected from among the C8 to C18 sulfobetaines. For example, the betaine-based surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cocodimethylsulfopropylbetaine, stearyldimethylsulfopropylbetaine, lauryldimethylsulfoethylbetaine, laurylbis(2-hydroxyethyl)sulfopropylbetaine and mixtures thereof.

[0115] In preferred embodiments, the betaine surfactant is selected from imidazole carboxylic derivatives, C8- to C18 alkyldimethylammonium acetates, C8- to C18 alkyldimethylcarbonylmethylammonium salts, C8- to C18 fatty acid alkylamidobetaines, and mixtures thereof. For example, the C8- to C18 fatty acid alkylamidobetaine is selected from coco fatty acid amidopropylbetaine, coco fatty acid amidoethyl-N-[2-(carboxymethoxy)ethyl]glycerol (CTFA cocoamphocarboxyglycinate), and mixtures thereof.

[0116] A particularly preferred amphoteric surfactant or betaine is cocamidopropyl betaine. Another particularly preferred amphoteric surfactant or betaine is sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0117] The surfactants mentioned above can be used alone or in mixtures.

[0118] In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 40% by weight, particularly preferably from 3 to 25% by weight of at least one surfactant, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0119] In at least one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight of at least one surfactant, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0120] The cosmetic composition used in the present invention comprises an oil phase. Preferably, the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion. In particular embodiments, the cosmetic composition used in the present invention further comprises a diluent. Advantageously, the diluent is cosmetically acceptable.

[0121] The preferred diluents are water, alcohols, or mixtures thereof. The most commonly preferred diluents are water, glycerin, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or mixtures thereof. Water is a particularly preferred diluent. It is especially useful for both environmental and economic reasons.

[0122] The cosmetic composition may include other oils. Suitable oils may be, for example, esters of formula R'COOR", in which R' and R" are each independently an alkyl, an alkenyl or an alkoxycarbonylalkyl or a linear or C4-20 branched alkylcarbonyloxyalkyl. Examples of such esters include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate (PEG = polyethylene glycol), isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate / ca prate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyle myristate.Suitable oils may also be chosen from among C10-18 triglycerides, castor oil, lanolin oil, triisocetyl citrate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, coconut oil, mineral oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, evening primrose oil, camelina sativa seed oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, corn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil and camellia reticulata seed oil.

[0123] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester is selected from the esters of alpha-linoleic, eicosapentaenoic, docosahexanoic, linoleic, gamma-linolenic, dihomo-gamma-linoleic, arachidonic, alpha-linoleic, caprylic, gadoleic, myristic, lauric, linoleic, oleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic acids and glycerol, sorbitol, dulcitol, mannitol and iditol. According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester is selected from the esters of alpha-linoleic, eicosapentaenoic, docosahexanoic, linoleic, gamma-linolenic, dihomo-gamma-linoleic, arachidonic, alpha-linoleic, caprylic, gadoleic, myristic, lauric, linoleic, oleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic and sorbitol.

[0124] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid ester is selected from the esters of alpha-linoleic, caprylic, gadoleic, myristic, lauric, linoleic, oleic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic and sorbitol acids.

[0125] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), at least one chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic, and at least one ester, preferably selected from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45) and optionally at least one mineral UV filter.

[0126] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) with n from 5 to 7, at least one chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, at least one ester, selected from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), and optionally at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0127] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), at least one chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic, and at least one ester selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiolB), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and mixtures thereof.

[0128] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) with n from 5 to 7, at least one chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, at least one ester, selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and mixtures thereof and optionally at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] According to a particular embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 5 to 7% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen, preferably lipophilic, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from preferably Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and optionally from 10 to 25% by weight,preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof,

[0130] According to a particular embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 5 to 7% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen, preferably lipophilic, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester selected from preferably Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V), and Dibutyl Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and their mixtures,relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof,

[0131] According to a preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n ranging from 5 to 7 by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 6 to 9% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 7 to 10% by weight of at least one ester chosen preferably from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc),Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] According to a preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n ranging from 5 to 7 by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 6 to 9% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight of the mixture of polyricinoleic acids. weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, of at least one ester chosen preferably from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B),Decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate, Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and their mixtures, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and their mixtures.

[0133] According to a preferred embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises 5 to 10% by weight of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n ranging from 5 to 7 by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; 9% by weight of a mixture of chemical sunscreens selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition; and 10 to 20% by weight, preferably 18% by weight, of a mixture of esters selected from preferably dibutyl adipate (cetiol B) and decyl oleate. (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima),relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof. This latter composition produces a synergistic effect by facilitating the solubilization of chemical sunscreens and increasing the sun protection factor (SPF) compared to a cosmetic composition using only the ester mixture as the solvent for the chemical sunscreens.

[0134] In one embodiment, the topical cosmetic composition according to the invention further comprises at least one emulsifying agent selected from the group consisting of polyhydrostearic acid, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, sorbitan isostearate (and) polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, glyceryl laurate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl stearate, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, and pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] In preferred embodiments, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more other ingredients. These other ingredients may, for example, be present in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably at least 0.05% by weight, more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, even more preferably at least 0.5% by weight, for example from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight of the cosmetic composition. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages are by weight (w / w) of the total composition.

[0136] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one ester and / or an emollient agent, and / or an emulsifier.

[0137] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may, for example, comprise one or more other ingredients selected from the group consisting of R'COOR formula esters, including emulsifiers, solubilizers, emollients, waxes, surfactants, film-forming agents, preservatives, colorants or pigments, particulate substances, opacifiers, abrasives, absorbents, anti-caking agents, fillers, pearlescent agents, perfumes or fragrances, vitamins, active ingredients, skin-lightening agents, self-tanning agents, exfoliants, enzymes, anti-acne agents, deodorants or antiperspirants, viscosity modifiers, thickening or gelling agents, pH-adjusting agents, buffering agents, antioxidants, chelating agents, astringents, sunscreens, sun-protective agents, UV filters, and other agents. conditioning,humectants, occlusive agents, antifoaming agents, flavoring agents, electrolytes, oxidizing and reducing agents. The cosmetic composition may contain other oils. Suitable oils may be, for example, esters of the formula R'COOR", in which R' and R" are each independently a linear or branched C4-20 alkyl, alkenyl, alkoxycarbonylalkyl, or alkylcarbonyloxyalkyl. Examples of such esters include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate (PEG = polyethylene glycol), isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate / caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate,myristate of myristyle. Suitable oils may, for example, also be chosen from among C10-18 triglycerides, castor oil, lanolin oil, triisocetyl citrate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, coconut oil, mineral oil, almond oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, evening primrose oil, camelina sativa seed oil, grapeseed oil, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, corn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, and camellia reticulata seed oil.

[0138] The fourth specific object of the present invention is a method for preparing a cosmetic composition comprising an oily phase according to the invention and an aqueous phase. In one embodiment, said formulation is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion.

[0139] In a particular embodiment, said emulsion is a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion.

[0140] Indeed, these emulsions tend to offer higher UV protection than oil-in-water emulsions. This is because the oil phase of the emulsion can contain lipodispersible sunscreens, which are more effective than water-dispersible sunscreens. Furthermore, water-in-oil emulsions are also more water-resistant than oil-in-water emulsions, making them more suitable for use in humid environments or during water sports. In addition, water-in-oil emulsions tend to have a richer, more nourishing texture, making them particularly suitable for dry and dehydrated skin. Moreover, this texture allows for easier and more even application, even more so in the context of this invention.

[0141] In one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises mainly water and any cosmetically acceptable substance intended to be placed in contact with the skin.

[0142] A cosmetically acceptable aqueous phase included in these compositions, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion of the present invention, contains water and may conventionally contain one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. The cosmetically acceptable solvents may, in particular, be selected from polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, or water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, or butanol.

[0143] In one embodiment, said oily phase represents from about 25% to about 70% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation, preferably from about 45% to about 65% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation, preferably from about 48% to about 58% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation, preferably from about 50% to about 55% of the mass of said cosmetic formulation.

[0144] The process of preparing a cosmetic sun protection formulation includes the following steps:

[0145] (i) Mix at least one chemical protection filter with at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) to obtain an oily phase.

[0146] ii) Add a surfactant to this oil phase, while stirring and heating to 75°C until all other ingredients are completely dissolved. iii) Prepare the aqueous phase and heat to 75°C.

[0147] iv) Once the temperatures are reached, proceed with emulsification using a strong shear force until emulsion is formed.

[0148] v) Once the emulsion has been made, reduce the shear force considerably so as to lightly mix the preparation.

[0149] vi) Allow the temperature to drop to 25°C and add the preservatives.

[0150] Description of the figures

[0151] Figure 1 relates to the measurement of absorbance at different wavelengths, of formulations with and without polyricinoleic acid.

[0152] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the following examples

[0153] Examples

[0154] 1. Solubilization tests

[0155] Several preparations consisting of a solubilizer and a chemical UV filter (Tinosorb S) were prepared.

[0156]

[0157]

[0158] Observation by polarized light microscopy at 0 and J 15 leads to the conclusion that Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol CC) and Caprylic Triglyceride (Myritol 318) do not allow complete solubilization of Tinosorb.

[0159] On the other hand, a mixture of polyricinoleic acids (Chemsperse) allows for complete solubilization of Tinosorb.

[0160] Procedure for performing solubilization tests:

[0161] i) Weigh and heat Polyricinoleic Acid (or Cetiol CC, or Myritol 318) with the Tinosorb S filter up to 85°C while stirring with a magnetic stir bar.

[0162] ii) Leave under heat on a hot plate, and under stirring, until total dissolution of Tinosorb S.

[0163] A mixture of polyricinoleic acids (heptamers (n = 5), octamers (n = 6) and nonamers (n = 7)) demonstrates a solubilization capacity of a chemical UV filter (TinosorbS) superior to that observed for conventional solubilizers such as Cetiol CC and Myritol 318.

[0164] The following cosmetic formulations were prepared:

[0165] a) Formulation A comprising chemical UV filters without polyricinoleic acid mixtures

[0166]

[0167] b) Formulation B comprising chemical UV filters with a mixture of polyricinoleic acids

[0168] <

[0169]

[0170] c) Formulation C comprising chemical UV filters without polyricinoleic acid mixtures

[0171]

[0172]

[0173] The above compositions were prepared by first dissolving the components of the oil phase Al together at 75–80 °C. The components of the aqueous phase B were mixed separately at 75–80 °C. The oil phase Al was then rapidly added to the aqueous phase, and the mixture was homogenized for 20 minutes. The emulsion was then cooled.

[0174] Formulation A contains solubilizers (Dibutyl adipate, Diisopropryl adipate, Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate) in an amount (2% by weight total) sufficient only to dissolve the chemical UV filters. The filters are therefore not solubilized but simply dissolved.

[0175] Formulation B is identical to the first, but also includes 5% of a mixture of polyricinoleic acids (Chemsperse).

[0176] Formulation C contains solubilizers (Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate), but in a larger quantity (7% by weight in total)

[0177] Figure 1 shows that increasing the amount of "classical" solubilizers of the Dibutyl adipate type does not result in a significant increase in absorbance (comparison of formulations A and C).

[0178] On the other hand, it can be observed that the presence of a mixture of polyricinoleic acids (Chemsperse) increases absorbance, which demonstrates better solubilization of chemical UV filters.

[0179] 2. FPS Tests

[0180] The following cosmetic formulations were prepared:

[0181] a) Formulation D comprising chemical UV filters without polyricinoleic acid mixtures

[0182]

[0183] b) Formulation E comprising chemical UV filters with a mixture of polyricinoleic acids

[0184]

[0185] The SPF was then determined in vitro (Helioscience internal methods) and in vivo (on 3 volunteers, according to ISO 24444: 2019 standard) on the 2 emulsions.

[0186] Operating procedure for in vitro SPF measurement methods:

[0187] A quantity of 30 mg is applied to sandblasted polymethacrylate (PMMA) sheets recognized by experts in the field (1.2 mg / cm²). 2 ).

[0188] The samples to be tested are applied to the rough phase of the plate using a bare finger pre-saturated with the product in order to obtain the most homogeneous film possible.

[0189] A series of 16 measurements was then performed using a UV-2600240V IVDD spectrophotometer (manufacturer: SHIMADZU) equipped with an integrating sphere between 290 and 400 nm. The absorbance of the measurements was then averaged, thus allowing the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) to be obtained.

[0190] Results

[0191]

[0192] A mixture of polyricinoleic acids (Chemsperse) improves the SPF by 7 points and achieves sun protection with an SPF index of 30.

[0193] 3. Comparative tests

[0194] The following cosmetic formulations were prepared:

[0195] &

[0196]

[0197] Results

[0198]

[0199]

[0200] Formulations 1-4 prepared contain increasing amounts of polyricinoleic acid (0, 2, 5 and 10%) and adjusted amounts of esters (Dibutyl Adipate, Diisopropyl Adipate + Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate and Decyl Oleate (22, 20, 17 and 12%)) to obtain a total of 22% esters and polyricinoleic acid.

[0201] A mixture of polyricinoleic acid and esters allows for a synergistic improvement in the solubilization of BMDBM and BEMT SPF chemical filters by approximately 7 and approximately 10 points when the amount of polyricinoleic acid is 5 and 10% respectively, in the presence of esters (between 12-17%).

Claims

Demands 1. Use of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) in which the degree of polymerization n is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 10, even more preferably from 5 to 7, even more preferably 5 as a potentiator of the solubilization of a chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic.

2. Use of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) in which the degree of polymerization n is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 10, even more preferably from 5 to 7, even more preferably 5 as an activator of the sun protection factor (SPF) of a chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic.

3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the chemical sunscreen agent is selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, ferulic acid, ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the degree of polymerization n of at least one polyricinoleic acid is from 5 to 7, and the chemical sunscreen agent is selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and combinations thereof, preferably Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine or a combination of Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine and ethylhexyl Triazone.

5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) further comprises at least one ester, preferably selected from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), or selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and mixtures thereof.

6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein an amount of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) is of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 10% by weight, more preferably 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, an amount of at least one ester selected from preferably Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), or selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl Adipate, Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and mixtures thereof, is of 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably 5 to 15% by weight, more preferably 7 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and a quantity of at least one chemical sunscreen agent,Preferably lipophilic, the amount is 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably 5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and optionally an amount of at least one mineral UV filter chosen from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof, is 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

7. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the mass ratio between at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) and at least one chemical sunscreen agent is from 0.05 to 1.2, preferably from 0.4 to 1.2, preferably from 0.5 to 1.15, even more preferably 0.55 or 1.

11.

8. Cosmetic composition for topical use, in particular for photoprotection of the skin and / or hair, comprising at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) in which n is an integer from 1 to 20, preferably from 5 to 10, and even more preferably from 5 to 7, and at least one chemical sunscreen agent, preferably lipophilic.

9. Composition according to claim 8, wherein the chemical sunscreen agent is selected from the butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, PEG-25 PABA, ferulic acid, ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof, preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

10. Composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the composition comprises a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1) comprising a mixture of trimers (n=1), quadrimers (n=2), pentamers (n=3), hexamers (n=4), heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6), and nonamers (n=7), preferably a mixture of heptamers (n=5), octamers (n=6), and nonamers (n=7), or a mixture of heptamers (n=5) and octamers (n=6), or a mixture of octamers (n=6) and nonamers (n=7), and at least one chemical sunscreen agent, selected from butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl, tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, tris-biphenyl triazine, polysilicone-15, ethylhexyl dimethyl paba, peg-25 paba, ferulic acid,ferulic acid esters such as ethyl ferulate or other ferulic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof, preferably bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone, or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone, and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 10, further comprising at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 11 comprising from 5 to 10% by weight, of at least one polyricinoleic acid or a mixture of polyricinoleic acids according to formula (1), with n from 5 to 7 relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, from 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 9% by weight, of at least one chemical sunscreen agent selected from bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine and ethylhexyl triazone or a combination of bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, ethylhexyl triazone and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, and from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably 7 to 10% by weight of at least one ester chosen preferably from Dicaprylyl Carbonate (cetiol cc), Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B),Dimethyl Capramide or Diethylhexyl Malate (Ceraphyl 45), or selected from Dibutyl Adipate (cetiol B), decyl oleate (cetiol V) and Dibutyl adipate Diisopropryl Adipate, Propylene glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (Dub Helioptima) and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and optionally 10 to 25% by weight, preferably 15 to 20% by weight of at least one mineral UV filter selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and mixtures thereof.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 12, further comprising at least one ester and / or an emollient agent, and / or an emulsifier.

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