Process for shaping and coloring keratin fibers

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising steps of: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a shaping and coloring composition comprising: (a) at least one amino acid or derivative thereof; (b) at least one alkaline agent; and (c) optionally at least one oxidative dye, wherein the composition has a pH value of higher than 9, (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C, (iii) applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] PROCESS FOR SHAPING AND COLORING KERATIN FIBERS TECHNICAL FIELD

[0003] The present invention relates to a process for shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, simultaneously.

[0004] BACKGROUND ART

[0005] Shaping the hair, such as straightening and / or curling the hair, and coloring the hair are widely used by consumers to enhance hair aesthetics.

[0006] Shaping keratin fibers such as hair by heating the keratin fibers with an iron is a popular way to make unruly keratin fibers manageable and make keratin fibers have less volume and look more desirable. Such a reshaping method using a heating iron is convenient for quick styling, but the style lasts only a short period of time, e.g., until the next shampooing. A long-lasting reshaping method is required for many consumers.

[0007] Dyeing keratin fibers, in particular hair, using dyeing compositions containing oxidative coloring precursors, generally called oxidative bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds is also known. These oxidative bases are generally combined with couplers. These oxidative bases and couplers are colorless or weakly colored compounds. However, when combined with oxidizing agents, they can provide colored dye molecules through an oxidative condensation process.

[0008] This type of coloring by oxidation, i.e., oxidative dyeing, makes it possible to get colors with very high visibility, coverage of white hair, and a wide variety of shades. Oxidative dyeing is widely used because of the high color uptake as compared with direct dyeing using so-called direct dyes. In order to perform oxidative dyeing, typically, a composition comprising oxidative base(s), as well as coupler(s), with alkaline agent(s), is mixed with a developer composition comprising oxidizing agent(s) to prepare a ready-to-use composition, and then, the ready-to-use composition is applied onto keratin fibers.

[0009] So far, there are some prior art documents that report a process for simultaneously shaping and coloring the hair.

[0010] For example, EP3233033A discloses a method for reshaping and coloring human hair, the method comprising the steps of:

[0011] (I) preparing a ready-to-use reshaping and coloring agent by mixing a preparation (A) with a preparation (B);

[0012] (II) applying the ready-to-use reshaping and coloring agent to the hair;

[0013] (III) mechanically reshaping the hair;

[0014] (IV) rinsing the hair; and

[0015] (V) optionally drying the hair,

[0016] weherein the first preparation (A) comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle (Al), one or more resorcinol derivatives from the group consisting of resorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 4-chlororesorcinol, and (A2) one or more oxidation dye precursors from the group consisting of p-phenylenediamines, p-aminophenols, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidines and 4,5-diaminopyrazoles, and the second preparation (B) comprising, in a cosmetic vehicle (Bl), hydrogen peroxide, characterized in that the molar ratio of all resorcinol derivatives (Al) in the preparation (A) to all developer-type oxidation dyes in the preparation (A), i.e. the molar ratio (A1) / (A2), is at least 1.2. Also, EP1797865A discloses a process for a simultaneously dyeing and permanent shaping of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that

[0017] (i) an aqueous, keratin-reducing composition comprising at least one keratin-reducing compound and at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one direct dye is applied to the fibers, (ii) the fibers are rinsed and optionally dried after an exposure time Zl,

[0018] (iii) the fibers are then shaped with the aid of shaping aids, and

[0019] (iv) finally, an oxidizing composition containing at least one oxidizing compound is applied to the fibers and rinsed off again after an exposure time Z2.

[0020] However, there is still a demand for a new process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers.

[0021] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

[0022] An objective of the present invention is to provide a new process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0023] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a new process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising steps of:

[0024] (i) applying to the keratin fibers a shaping and coloring composition comprising:

[0025] (a) at least one amino acid or derivative thereof, except from cysteine;

[0026] (b) at least one alkaline agent; and

[0027] (c) optionally at least one oxidative dye,

[0028] wherein the composition has a pH value of higher than 9,

[0029] (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C,

[0030] (iii) applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound.

[0031] The (a) at least one amino acid may be selected from basic amino acids.

[0032] The (a) at least one amino acid may be selected from amino acids having a secondary amino group.

[0033] The (a) at least one amino acid may be selected from aminosulfonic acids.

[0034] The (a) at least one amino acid may be selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, glycine, and combinations thereof.

[0035] The (b) at least one alkaline agent may comprise a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent.

[0036] The (b) at least one alkaline agent may comprise a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent including sodium hydroxide and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines.The weight ratio of the at least one inorganic alkaline agent to the at least one organic alkaline agent in the (b) alkaline agent may range from 50: 1 to 1 :5, preferably from 30: 1 to 1 :2, and preferably 10:1 to 1:1.

[0037] The (a) at least one amino acid may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the shaping and coloring composition.

[0038] The (b) at least one alkaline agent may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the shaping and coloring composition.

[0039] The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition may range from 9.5 to 12, preferably from 10 to 11.5, and more preferably from 10.5 to 11.

[0040] Step (ii) may be performed for a time period of from 1 minute to one hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

[0041] The process according to the present invention may comprise an additional step of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers between step (ii) and step (iii).

[0042] The process according to the present invention may not comprise an additional step of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers between step (ii) and step (iii), and the oxidizing composition may be directly applied on the shaping and coloring composition applied in the keratin fibers.

[0043] The (b) at least one alkaline agent may be free of ammonia.

[0044] The shaping and coloring composition may comprise the (c) at least one oxidative dye other than para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dyes and resorcinol and derivatives thereof.

[0045] The shaping and coloring composition may be free of any direct dyes.

[0046] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

[0047] After diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that a new process comprising steps (i) to (iii) of the present invention can simultaneously shape and color keratin fibers, preferably hair, and thus completed the invention.

[0048] Thus, the process according to the present invention is a process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising steps of:

[0049] (i) applying to the keratin fibers a shaping and coloring composition comprising:

[0050] (a) at least one amino acid or derivative thereof, except from cysteine;

[0051] (b) at least one alkaline agent; and

[0052] (c) optionally at least one oxidative dye,

[0053] wherein the composition has a pH value of higher than 9,

[0054] (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C,

[0055] (iii) applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound.Because the present invention can simultaneously shape and color keratin fibers, in particular hair, the present invention has a great benefit of reducing the user's treatment time.

[0056] Furthermore, the present invention has a benefit that it can provide lastingness with respect to shape and color of the keratin fibers provided by the process according to the present invention. Hereinafter, the process according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[0057] [Process]

[0058] The process according to the present invention is for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers. The process according to present invention can be a cosmetic process and thus is a non-therapeutic process. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "keratin fiber" includes hair, eyebrow, and eyelash, and preferably hair.

[0059] The process according to the present invention comprises the steps of:

[0060] (i) applying a shaping and coloring composition to the keratin fibers,

[0061] (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C, and

[0062] (iii) applying an oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers.

[0063] Each step will be described in detail below.

[0064] {Step (i)}

[0065] Step (i) in the process is a step of applying a shaping and coloring composition to the keratin fibers.

[0066] The application of the shaping and coloring composition can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, e.g., hands, a spray, a brush, or a comb. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0067] For the purpose of the present invention, the expression “shaping keratin fibers” here indicates straightening, relaxing, reshaping, perming, and / or curling keratin fibers, preferably hair. For the purpose of the present invention, the term “coloring keratin fibers” includes dyeing keratin fibers to a desired color, and lightening and / or bleaching keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0068] The shaping and coloring composition may take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O / W or W / O form), multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions, and the like. It is preferable that the shaping and coloring composition be an emulsion or a cream.

[0069] The shaping and coloring composition used in the process according to the present invention has a pH value of 9 or more, which is measured at 25°C.

[0070] The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition according to the present invention may be 9.5 or higher, preferably 10 or higher, and more preferably 10.5 or higher.

[0071] The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition may be 12 or lower, preferably 11.5 or lower, and more preferably 11 or lower.The pH value of the shaping and coloring composition may range from 9.5 to 12, preferably from 10 to 11.5, and more preferably from 10.5 to 11.

[0072] The shaping and coloring composition comprises (a) at least one amino acid or derivative thereof and (b) at least one alkaline agent. The shaping and coloring composition optionally comprises the (c) at least one optional oxidative dye. Thus, the shaping and coloring composition may or may not comprise (c) at least one optional oxidative dye.

[0073] The ingredients included in the composition will be described in detail below.

[0074] (Amino Acid or Derivative Thereof)

[0075] The shaping and coloring composition comprises (a) at least one amino acid or derivative thereof, except from cysteine. Two or more types of amino acids and / or derivatives thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of an amino acid or a derivative thereof or a combination of different types of amino acids and / or derivatives thereof may be used.

[0076] The (a) amino acids that may be used according to the present invention comprise at least one amine group and at least one acid function.

[0077] The acid function(s) may be carboxylic, sulfonic, phosphonic or phosphoric, and are preferably carboxylic.

[0078] The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group or a tertiary amino group, preferably a primary amino group or a secondary amino group, and more preferably a secondary amino group.

[0079] The (a) amino acid may be in the D- or L-form.

[0080] The (a) amino acids that may be used according to the present invention may be a-amino acids, -amino acids, or y-amino acids. It is preferable that the amino acid be selected from an a-amino acid in which an amino group is bonded to the carbon atom to which a carboxyl group is bonded. The a-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic a-amino acids and cyclic a-amino acids. The a-amino acids may be represented by the following formula:

[0081]

[0082] in which:

[0083] when p=2, R represents a hydrogen atom, an aliphatic group optionally containing one or several nitrogen atoms, a heterocyclic portion, or an aromatic group, or

[0084] when p=l , R can form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom of -N(H)P. This heterocycle is preferably a saturated 5 -membered ring, optionally substituted with one or more CM alkyl or hydroxyl groups.

[0085] Preferably, the aliphatic group is a linear or branched C alkyl group; a linear or branched CM hydroxyalkyl group; a linear or branched CM aminoalkyl group; a linear or branched (CM alkyl)thio(CM)alkyl group; a linear or branched C2 carboxyalkyl group; a linear or branchedureidoalkyl group, a linear or branched guanidinoalkyl group, a linear or branched imidazoloalkyl group or a linear or branched indolylalkyl group, the alkyl portions of these last four groups comprising from one to four carbon atoms.

[0086] Preferably, the aromatic group is a Ce aryl or C7-10 aralkyl group, the aromatic nucleus optionally being substituted with one or more CM alkyl or hydroxyl groups.

[0087] The a-amino acid may be selected from non-cyclic a-amino acids and cyclic a-amino acids. The non-cyclic a-amino acid may be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

[0088] The cyclic a-amino acid may be selected from non-aromatic cyclic a-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.

[0089] The (a) amino acid may be selected from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids and neutral amino acids. The acidic amino acids typically have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. The basic amino acids typically have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. The number of amino group(s) and the number of carboxyl group(s) in the neutral amino groups are the same. The (a) amino acid is preferably selected from basin amino acid. The basic amino acid comprises an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids may be preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (A) below:

[0090]

[0091] in which R denotes a group chosen from:

[0092]

[0093] The compounds corresponding to formula (A) may be histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline. The basic amino acid is preferably selected from lysine, arginine, and histidine. The derivatives of the (a) amino acids (amino acid derivatives) may be selected from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group and / or on the carboxyl group in the amino acids is substituted with at least one substituent.

[0094] As the substituent, mention may be made of, for example, an alkyl group, acyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group and an alkoxycarbonyl group.The alkyl group may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group may be a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl group, preferably C1-C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group and a butyl group. On the other hand, the alkyl group may be a cyclic C3-C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.

[0095] The acyl group may be a Ci-Ce acyl group such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.

[0096] The alkenyl group may be a C2-C6 alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group and a hexenyl group.

[0097] The alkoxy group may be a Ci-Cg alkoxy group such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group.

[0098] The alkoxy carbonyl group may be a Ci-Ce alkoxy carbonyl group such as a methoxy carbonyl group, an ethoxycarbonyl group, and a propoxycarbonyl group.

[0099] The above substituent may be further substituted with at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

[0100] Alternatively, the derivatives of the (a) amino acids include, for example, acetylated derivatives of amino acids, esterified derivatives of amino acids, halogenated derivatives of amino acids, oligomers of amino acids, in particular dimers of amino acids, and the like. As the acetylated derivatives of amino alkylated derivatives of amino acids, acids, mention can be made of N-acetyl aspartate, acetyl carnitine, acetyl cysteine, N-acetyl glutamic acid, acetyl leucine. As the esterified derivatives of amino acids, mention can be made of arginine ethyl ester and the like. As the alkylated derivatives of amino acids, mention can be made of carbocysteine, methylaspartic acid, methyl-glutamic acid, and the like. As the halogenated derivatives of amino acids, mention can be made of dibromo tyrosine and the like. As the oligomers of amino acids, mention can be made of glycylglycine and the like.

[0101] In one embodiment, the (a) amino acids may form the salts of amino acids or the salts of amino acid derivatives.

[0102] The type of the salts of the (a) amino acids or the salts of amino acid derivatives is not limited. The salts may be acid salts or basic salts. As acid salts, mention may be made of, for example, inorganic acid salts such as hydrochloride, sulfates, nitrates, and phosphates, and organic acid salts such as citrates, oxalates, acetates, formats, maleates, and tartrates. As basic salts, mention may be made of, for example, inorganic base salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt, magnesium salt, copper salt, zinc salt, aluminum salt and ammonium salts, and organic base salts such as triethylammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, pyridinium salts and diisopropyl ammonium salts. Sodium salt is preferable.

[0103] In one preferred embodiment, the (a) amino acid is selected from basic amino acids, such as histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline, and preferably selected from lysine, arginine, and histidine.

[0104] As another preferred embodiment, the (a) amino acid is selected from amino acids having a secondary amino group instead of a primary amino group. In this preferred embodiment, the (a) amino acid may be selected from proline and derivatives thereof, such as hydroxy proline, inparticular 4-hydroxy proline, and methyl proline, in particular N-methyl proline.

[0105] As another preferred embodiment, the (a) amino acid is selected from aminosulfonic acids such as taurine.

[0106] In one preferred embodiment, the (a) amino acid is selected from basic amino acids, such as lysine, arginine, and histidine, amino acids having a secondary amino group, such as proline, hydroxy proline, and methyl proline, aminosulfonic acids, such as taurine, and combinations thereof.

[0107] In another preferred embodiment, the (a) at least one amino acid is selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, glycine, and combinations thereof.

[0108] The amount of the (a) amino acid(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more, and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0109] The amount of the (a) amino acid(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0110] The amount of the (a) amino acid(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0111] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above can be available to represent the preferred range of the amount.

[0112] (Alkaline Agent)

[0113] The shaping and coloring composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one alkaline agent. Two or more (b) alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used. The (b) alkaline agent at a high temperature may cause lanthionization in keratin fibers which could contribute to shaping of the keratin fibers.

[0114] The (b) alkaline agent is different from the (a) amino acid.

[0115] The (b) alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent. It may be possible that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of ammonia; alkaline metal hydroxides; alkaline earth metal hydroxides; alkaline metal phosphates and monohydrogenophosphates such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogenophosphate. However, it is preferable that the (c) alkaline agent not be ammonia because of the odor thereof. Thus, it is preferable that the inorganic alkaline agent be selected from inorganic ammonium salts such as ammonium carbonate and ammonium bicarbonate; and alkylammonium hydroxides such as tetramethylammonium hydroxide.

[0116] As examples of the inorganic alkaline metal hydroxides, mention may be made of alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassiumbicarbonates, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium or potassium hydroxide, alkali metal silicates or metasilicates such as sodium or potassium silicates or metasilicates, or mixtures thereof.

[0117] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent. It is preferable that the organic alkaline agent be selected from the group consisting of alkanol amines; monoamines and derivatives thereof; diamines and derivatives thereof; polyamines and derivatives thereof; urea and derivatives thereof; and guanidine and derivatives thereof.

[0118] The alkanolamines may comprise derivatives of alkanolamines (alkanolamine derivatives), and salts of alkanolamines or alkanolamine derivatives.

[0119] The alkanolamines have an alkane structure with at least one hydroxyl group and at least one amino group.

[0120] As the alkanolamines, mention may be made of, for example, mono-, di-, and tri-ethanolamines. The alkanolamine may be selected from the group consisting of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3 -amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, 3 -dimethylamino- 1 ,2-propanediol, tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane, and a mixture thereof.

[0121] The alkanolamine derivative may be selected from alkanolamines in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom, if present, of the amino group in the alkanolamines is substituted with at least one substituent. As the substituent, mention may be made of, for example, an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, and an alkynyl group.

[0122] As examples of the monoamines, mention may be made of alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and tri-ethanolamine, comprising 1 to 3 hydroxyalkyl(Ci-C4) groups. Particularly, alkanolamines may be selected from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-l,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-l,2-propanediol, and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.

[0123] As examples of the diamines such as those described in the structure below:

[0124]

[0125] wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, and Ri, R2, R3 and R4 independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.

[0126] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (b) alkaline agent does not include ammonia.

[0127] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) alkaline agent comprises at least one alkanolamine.

[0128] In one preferred embodiment of the present invention, the (b) alkaline agent comprises two ormore types of alkaline agents. In another preferred embodiment, the (b) alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent. In yet another preferred embodiment, the (b) alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent including sodium hydroxide and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines.

[0129] The weight ratio of the at least one inorganic alkaline agent to at least one organic alkaline agent, such as alkanolamines, in the (b) alkaline agent is not particularly limited, but in general ranges from 50: 1 to 1 :5, preferably from 30: 1 to 1 :2, and preferably 10: 1 to 1 : 1. In one preferred embodiment, the (b) alkaline agent comprises at least one organic alkaline agent, such as alkanolamines, in a greater amount than at least one inorganic alkaline agent. The amount of the (b) alkaline agent(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0130] The amount of the (b) alkaline agent(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] The amount of the (b) alkaline agent(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] (Oxidative Dye)

[0133] The shaping and coloring composition according to the present invention may comprise (c) at least one oxidative dye. Two or more (c) oxidative dyes may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oxidative dye or a combination of different types of oxidative dyes may be used. The (c) oxidative dye is an optional ingredient. The term “optional” ingredient here means that the ingredient may or may not be included.

[0134] When the (c) oxidative dye is not included in the shaping and coloring composition, the process according to the present invention may be for shaping and lightening and / or bleaching keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0135] The oxidative dyes may be selected from oxidation bases and couplers.

[0136] The oxidation base can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of ortho-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and paraaminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the acid addition salts thereof.

[0137] - (I) According to the present invention, “double bases” are understood to mean compounds containing at least two aromatic rings on which amino and / or hydroxyl groups are carried.

[0138] Among the double bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made in particular of compounds corresponding to the following formula (II), and their addition salts with an acid:

[0139]

[0140] in which:

[0141] - Zi and Z2, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or -NH2 radical which may be substituted with a C1-C4 alkyl radical or with a linking arm Y;

[0142] - the linking arm Y represents a linear or branched alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by or which may end with one or more nitrogen-containing groups and / or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulphur, or nitrogen atoms, and optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or Ci-Ce alkoxy radicals;

[0143] - R5 and Re represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy(Ci-C4 alkyl) radical, a polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl) radical, an amino(Ci-C4 alkyl) radical, or a linking arm Y;

[0144] - R7, Rs, R$>, Rio, Rih and R12, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linking arm Y, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; it being understood that the compounds of formula (I) contain only one linking arm Y per molecule.

[0145] Among the nitrogen-containing groups of formula (I) above, mention may be made in particular of the amino, mono(Ci-C4)alkylamino, (Ci-C4)dialkylamino, (Ci-C4)trialkylamino, monohydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylamino, imidazolinium, and ammonium radicals.

[0146] Among the double bases of formulae (I) above, mention may be more particularly made ofN,N’-bis(p-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’ -bis(4’ -aminophenyl)- 1 ,3 -diaminopropanol, N,N’ -bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-aminophenyl)-tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N’-bis(ethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-amino-3’-methylphenyl)ethylene-diamine, l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0147] Among these double bases of formula (I), N,N’-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-N,N’-bis(4’-aminophenyl)-1,3 -diaminopropanol, l,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,5-dioxaoctane, or one of their addition salts with an acid are particularly preferred.

[0148] - (II) The para-aminophenols corresponding to the following formula (II), and their addition salts with an acid:

[0149]

[0150] in which:

[0151] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom, or a halogen atom such as fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl, monohydroxy(Ci-C4 alkyl), (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-C4)-alkyl, amino(Ci-C4 alkyl), or hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylamino-(Ci-C4 alkyl) radical,

[0152] - R14 represents a hydrogen atom, or a halogen atom such as fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl, monohydroxy(Ci-C4 alkyl), polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl), amino(Ci-C4 alkyl), cyano(Ci-C4 alkyl), or (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-C4)alkyl radical.

[0153] Among the para-aminophenols of formula (II) above, mention may be more particularly made of para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3 -methylphenol, 4-amino-3 -fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(p-hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0154] - an) The ortho-aminophenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the context of the present invention are chosen in particular from 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-6-methylbenzene, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0155] - (IV) Among the heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be more particularly made of pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0156] Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be more particularly made of the compounds described for example in Patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3 -aminopyridine, 2,3 -diamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2-(0-methoxyethyl)amino-3-amino-6-methoxypyridine, 3,4-diaminopyridine, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0157] Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be more particularly made of the compounds described, for example, in Patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571 ; and JP 91-10659, or patent application WO 96 / 15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 -hydroxy-4, 5, 6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triamino-pyrimidine, and the pyrazolopyrimidine derivatives such as those mentioned in patent application FR-A-2750048 and among which there may be mentioned pyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidine-3 ,7-diamine; 2,5 -dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5 -a]-pyrimidine-3 ,7 -diamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a]pyrimidine-3 ,5-diamine; 2,7 -dimethylpyrazolo[ 1 ,5 -a]pyrimidine-3 ,5 -diamine; 3 -aminopyrazolo[l ,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo[l ,5-a]pyrimidin-5-ol; 2-(3-amino-pyrazolo-[l,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ylamino)ethanol, 2-(7-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidin-3-ylamino)ethanol, 2- [(3 -amino-pyrazolo [1,5 -a]pyrimidin-7 -yl)-(2-hydroxy-ethyl)amino] -ethanol, 2-[(7-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidin-3-yl)-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]ethanol, 5,6-dimethylpyrazolo-[l,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo-[l,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 2,5,N7,N7-tetramethyl-pyrazolo[l ,5-a]pyrimidine-3,7-diamine, 3-amino-5-methyl-7-imidazolylpropyl-aminopyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidine, their addition salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0158] Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may more particularly be made of the compounds described in Patents DE 3843892 and DE 4 133957 and patent applications WO 94 / 08969, WO 94 / 08970, FR-A-2733749, and DE 19543988 such as 4, 5-diamino-l -methylpyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -(4’ -chlorobenzyl)-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 ,3 -dimethylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-l-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-l-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-l,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino-pyrazole, 1 -benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -tertbutyl-3 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -(0-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 1- hyroxyethyl-4,5-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- l-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -(4’ -methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino- 1 -ethyl-3 -hydroxy-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1 -methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl- 1 -isopropyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl- 1 -isopropyl-pyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2 ’ -aminoethyl)amino- 1 ,3 -dimethylpyrazole, 3 ,4,5 -triaminopyrazole, 1 -methyl-3 ,4,5 -triamino-pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-l -methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(0-hydroxy-ethyl)amino- 1 -methylpyrazole, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0159] Among the heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases, mention may more particularly be made of diaminopyrazolopyrazolones and especially 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-lH5H-[pyrazolol,2,a]pyrazol-l-one and the addition salts of these diaminopyrazolopyrazolones with an acid.

[0160] The coupler may be an oxidation coupler which can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, metaaminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthols, heterocyclic couplers, and the acid addition salts thereof.

[0161] The heterocyclic couplers may be selected from the group consisting of indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotriazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzimidazoles, benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1,3 -benzodioxoles, quinolines, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0162] These couplers are more particularly chosen from 2, 4-diamino-l-(0-hydroxy ethyloxy / benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(0-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3 -aminophenol, 2-chloro-3-amino-6-methylphenol, 1,3 -dihydroxybenzene, l,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-l,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2-amino-4-(0-hydroxy ethylamino)- 1 -methoxybenzene, 1 ,3 -diaminobenzene, 2-methyl-5 -hydroxy ethylaminophenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)-propane, sesamol, l-amino-2-methoxy-4,5-methylene-dioxybenzene, a-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 6-hydroxy-indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, l-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, l-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,6-dimethyl-pyrazolo[3,2-c]-l,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[l,5-b]-l,2,4-triazole, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0163] In general, the addition acid salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates, and acetates.

[0164] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) oxidative dye does not include a large amount of para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dyes. For example, the shaping and coloring composition comprises 0.1% by weigh or less, preferably 0.05% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01 % by weight of para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dyes. In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition is free of para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dyes.

[0165] As the para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dyes, mention can be made of the following formula (A) and their addition salts with an acid:

[0166]

[0167] in which:

[0168] Ri represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy(Ci-C4 alkyl) radical, a polyhydroxy-(C2-C4 alkyl) radical, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-C4)alkyl radical, a C1-C4 alkylradical substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl radical, or a 4’ -aminophenyl radical;

[0169] R2 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy(Ci-C4 alkyl) radical, a polyhydroxy(C2-C4 alkyl) radical, a (Ci-C4)alkoxy(Ci-C4)alkyl radical, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrogen-containing group;

[0170] Ri and R2 may also form with the nitrogen atom carrying them a 5- or 6-membered nitrogencontaining heterocycle optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, hydroxyl, or ureido groups; R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a sulpho radical, a carboxyl radical, a monohydroxy(Ci-C4 alkyl) radical, a hydroxy(Ci-C4 alkoxy) radical, an acetylamino(Ci-C4 alkoxy) radical, amesylamino(Ci-C4 alkoxy) radical, or a carbamoylamino(Ci-C4 alkoxy) radical; and

[0171] R4 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical.

[0172] Among the nitrogen-containing groups of formula (A) above, there may be mentioned in particular the amino, mono(Ci-C4)alkylamino, (Ci-C4)dialkylamino, (Ci-C4)trialkylamino, monohydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylamino, di(monohydroxy(Ci-C4)alkyl)amino, imidazolinium, and ammonium radicals.

[0173] Among the para-phenylenediamines of formula (A) above, mention may be made of para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethylpara-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-paraphenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2 -chloroaniline, 2-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-paraphenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(0-hydroxypropyl)-paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methylpara-phenylenediamine, N,N-(ethyl-P-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P,y-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4’-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-p-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2-P-acetylamino-ethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(P-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methyl- 1 -N-P-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4-aminophenyl)-3 -hydroxy-pyrrolidine, 2 - [ { 2- [(4 -Aminophenyl)amino]ethyl}(2-hydroxyethyl)amino]-ethanol, and their addition salts with an acid.

[0174] In another embodiment of the present invention, the (c) oxidative dye does not include a large amount of resorcinol and derivatives thereof as the oxidative dye. For example, the shaping and coloring composition comprises 0.1% by weigh or less, preferably 0.05% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01 % by weight of resorcinol and derivative thereof. In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition is free of resorcinol and derivatives thereof.

[0175] The resorcinol derivatives may include 4-chlororesorcinol and 2-methylresorcinol.

[0176] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention does not use any direct dyes. In other words, the shaping and coloring composition does not include a large amount of direct dyes. For example, the shaping and coloring composition comprises 0.1 % by weigh or less, preferably 0.05% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.01% by weight of direct dyes. In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition is free of any direct dyes.

[0177] The direct dye may include natural direct dyes and synthetic direct dyes. The natural direct dyes may include quinone dyes (such as lawsone and juglone), alizarin, purpurin, laccaic acid, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigoids such as indigo, sorghum, isatin, betanin, curcuminoids (such as curcumin), spinulosin, various types of chlorophyll and chlorophyllin, hematoxylin, hematein, brazilein, brazilin, safflower dyes (such as carthamin), flavonoids (such as rutin, quercetin, catechin, epicatechin, morin, apigenidin, and sandalwood), anthocyans (such as apigeninidin and apigenin), carotenoids, tannins, orceins, santalins and cochineal carmine. The synthetic direct dyes may include azo, azomethine, methine, carbonyl, azine, nitro(hetero)aryl types, tri(hetero)aryhnethanes, porphyrins, phthalocyanines, azacarbocyanines, quinones, xanthene, indoamines, phthalocyanines.

[0178] The amount of the (c) oxidative dye(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.2% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0179] The amount of the (c) oxidative dye(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 3% byweight or less, preferably 2% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0180] The amount of the (c) oxidative dye(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may range from 0.1% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0181] {Step (ii)}

[0182] Step (ii) in the process is a step of heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C. It may be possible to let the shaping and coloring composition penetrate into the keratin fibers in step (ii).

[0183] A method for heating the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, and any conventional method in the art for heating keratin fibers can be used. For example, the heating keratin fibers can be carried out with applying a heating iron or curler, a heater, such as a roller ball or a heating cover, or a dryer.

[0184] In step (ii), the keratin fibers are heated at a temperature of more than 40°C.

[0185] When the shaping in the process is straightening and / or relaxing, the keratin fibers may be heated at a temperature of at least 45 °C in step (ii). When the shaping in the process is curling and / or perming, the keratin fibers may be heated at a temperature of at least 50 °C, preferably at least 60 °C in step (ii). The heating temperature in step (ii) may be less than 250 °C, preferably less than 200°C.

[0186] The heating may be generally performed for a time period of from 1 minute to one hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes. It is preferable that, when the shaping is curling and / or perming the keratin fibers in the process, the keratin fibers may be subjected to mechanical tension for shaping or deformation while they are heated. The mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to reshape or deform the keratin fibers to an intended shape. For example, the mechanical tension may be provided by at least one shaping means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a clip, a rod, a plate and an iron.

[0187] Optionally, there may be a step of cooling down keratin fibers after the heating to an ambient temperature in the process after step (ii).

[0188] {Step (iii)}

[0189] Step (iii) in the process is a step of applying an oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers.

[0190] The application of the oxidizing composition can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, e.g., hands, a spray, a brush, or a comb. The application step can be a topical application step.

[0191] The oxidizing composition may take various forms, such as a solution, a gel, a lotion, a serum, a suspension, a dispersion, a fluid, a milk, a paste, a cream, a foam, an emulsion (O / W or W / Oform), multiple (e.g., W / O / W, polyol / O / W, and O / W / O) emulsions, and the like. It is preferable that the oxidizing composition be an emulsion or a cream.

[0192] After applying the oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers, it is possible that the keratin fibers be left as they are at a room temperature for a certain amount of time; typically from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 3 to 50 minutes, and more preferably from 5 to 40 minutes, if necessary, in order to let the composition penetrate into the keratin fibers.

[0193] The oxidizing composition comprises at least one oxidizing agent.

[0194] (Oxidizing Agent)

[0195] If two or more oxidizing agents are used, they may be the same or different.

[0196] The oxidizing agent may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis. For example, the oxidizing agent can be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides and persalts such as perborates and persulphates. At least one oxidase enzyme chosen, for example, from laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricase may also be used as the (a) oxidizing agent, where appropriate in the presence of the respective donor or co-factor thereof. It is preferable that the oxidizing agent be hydrogen peroxide.

[0197] In one embodiment, the oxidizing composition may comprise at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which may be chosen, for example, from alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal stannates, phenacetin and salts of acids and of oxyquinoline, for example, oxyquinoline sulphate. In another embodiment, at least one stannate optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate is used. It is also possible to use salicylic acid and its salts, pyridinedicarboxylic acid and its salts, and paracetamol.

[0198] In the composition according to the present invention, the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer may range from 0.0001% to 5% by weight such as from 0.01% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0199] In the composition according to the present invention, the concentration ratio of the hydrogen peroxide to the possible at least one stabilizer may range from 0.05:1 to 1,000:1, such as from 0.1:1 to 500:1 and further such as from 1:1 to 200:1.

[0200] The amount of the oxidizing agent(s) in the oxidizing composition may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0201] The amount of the oxidizing agent(s) in the oxidizing composition may be 25% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0202] The amount of the oxidizing agent(s) in the oxidizing composition may range from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Additional Step)

[0203] The process according to the present invention may additionally comprise at least one optional step. Two or more additional steps may be combined.

[0204] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention may comprise an additional step of rinsed off the shaping and colouring composition and / or oxidizing composition from the keratin fibers. The method for rinsing off the composition is not particularly limited. In general, rinsing off is carried out by rinsing off the composition with water, in particular running water. After rinsing off, the keratin fibers may be dried. The method for drying the keratin fibers is not particularly limited, and may include drying with a towel and blowing-drying with a hair dryer.

[0205] In one embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition is rinsed off after step (ii) and before step (iii). Thus, in this embodiment, the process comprises an additional step of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers between step (ii) and step (iii).

[0206] In another embodiment of the present invention, the shaping and coloring composition is not rinsed off after step (ii) and before step (iii). In this embodiment, the oxidizing composition is layered on the shaping and the coloring composition applied on the keratin fibers. Thus, in this embodiment, the process does not comprise an additional step of rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition between step (ii) and step (iii), and the oxidizing composition is directly applied on the shaping and coloring composition applied in the keratin fibers.

[0207] When the shaping is straightening and / or relaxing the keratin fibers in the process, the process may further comprise an additional step of straightening keratin fibers. The method for straightening keratin fibers is not particularly limited and any conventional methods can be applied. For example, straightening keratin fibers can be carried out with using a device, such as an iron or a hot iron.

[0208] It is preferable that the heating iron has two plates, and that keratin fibers are sandwiched between the two plates of the heating iron, in which at least one of the plates can be heated, and then the two plates are moved along the direction of the keratin fibers to straighten them.

[0209] It is preferable that the heating iron, in particular a part thereof contacting with keratin fibers, such as a heating plate or heating plates, has a temperature of more than 50°C and less than 250°C, more preferably more than 100°C and less than 230°C, and even more preferably more than 150°C andlessthan210°C.

[0210] In one embodiment of the present invention, when the shaping is straightening and / or relaxing the keratin fibers in the process and the process comprises the additional step of straightening keratin fibers, the straightening step is carried out between step (ii) and step (iii). Thus, in this embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for simultaneously straightening and / or relaxing and colouring keratin fibers, preferably hair, the process comprises: (1) applying the shaping and coloring composition to the keratin fibers (step (i)),

[0211] (2) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C (step (ii)),

[0212] (3) rinsing off the shaping and coloring composition from the keratin fibers,

[0213] (4) straightening keratin fibers, and

[0214] (5) applying the oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers (step (iii)).In another embodiment of the present invention, when the shaping is straightening and / or relaxing the keratin fibers in the process and the process comprises the additional step of straightening keratin fibers, the straightening step is carried out after step (iii). Thus, in this embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for simultaneously straightening and / or relaxing and colouring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

[0215] (1) applying the shaping and coloring composition to the keratin fibers,

[0216] (2) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C (step (ii)),

[0217] (3) applying the oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers (step (iii)).

[0218] (4) rinsing off the oxidizing composition from the keratin fibers, and

[0219] (5) straightening keratin fibers.

[0220] When the shaping is curling and / or perming the keratin fibers in the process, the process may further comprise an additional step of applying a mechanical tension to the keratin fibers for shaping or deformation while they are heated. Thus, in this embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for simultaneously curling and / or perming and colouring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

[0221] (1) applying the shaping and coloring composition to the keratin fibers (step (i)),

[0222] (2) applying a mechanical tension to the keratin fibers for shaping or deformation,

[0223] (3) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C (step (ii)),

[0224] (4) applying an oxidizing composition to the keratin fibers (step (iii)), and

[0225] (5) rinsing off the oxidizing composition from the keratin fibers.

[0226] In these embodiments, after rinsing off the oxidizing composition, the keratin fibers may be dried. (Optional Ingredient)

[0227] The shaping and coloring composition and the oxidizing composition may further comprise at least one following optional ingredient in addition to the ingredients as explained above.

[0228] - Water

[0229] The shaping and coloring composition and the oxidizing composition may further comprise water. The amount of water in the shaping and coloring composition may be 10% by weight or more, preferably 15% by weight or more, and more preferably 20% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0230] The amount of the water in the shaping and coloring composition may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 40% by weight or less, and more preferably 35% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0231] The amount of water in the shaping and coloring composition may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0232] The amount of water in the oxidizing composition may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 25% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the water in the oxidizing composition may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0233] The amount of water in the oxidizing composition may range from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 25% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0234] - Oil

[0235] The shaping and coloring composition and the oxidizing composition may further comprise at least one oil. Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.

[0236] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste (nonsolid), or solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The oil preferably comprises at least one liquid oil. The oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0237] Among the oils which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

[0238] For the purposes of the present invention, “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.

[0239] For the purposes of the present invention, “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.

[0240] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

[0241] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.

[0242] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0243] The plant oil may comprise butters of plant origin. As examples of butters of plant origin, mention may be made of, for example, shea butter or Butyrospermum parkii butter, Nilotica shea butter, galam butter, Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea butter, illipe butter, madhuca butter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica),ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya (kpangnan) butter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter.

[0244] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

[0245] As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

[0246] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or poly alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0247] In one embodiment of the present invention, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0248] The ester oils of the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols may be represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferable 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 > 10.

[0249] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0250] It is preferred that the ester oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils.

[0251] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

[0252] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

[0253] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance, methylglucose.

[0254] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0255] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0256] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

[0257] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] The term “fatty alcohol” here means any saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohol, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

[0259] Among the C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 fatty alcohols, for example, are used. Mention may be made among these of lauiyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, steaiyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), as well as myristyl alcohol, can be used as a solid fatty material. In another embodiment, isostearyl alcohol can be used as a liquid fatty material.

[0260] As the ether oil, mention may be made of dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:

[0261] R’-O-R2

[0262] wherein

[0263] each of R1and R2independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably a Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably a C8-C12 alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1and R2are the same.

[0264] As the linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group,tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and an tetracosyl group.

[0265] As the branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, at-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3 -methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5 -methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3 -dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1,3 ,3 -tetramethylbutyl group, a 3, 5, 5 -trimethylhexyl group, a l-(2-methylpropyl)-3-methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyyl group, and a 2-(l ,3,3-trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.

[0266] As the cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3,3 ,5 -trimethylcyclohexyl group.

[0267] As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceiyl tricaprate, glyceryl tricapiylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).

[0268] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

[0269] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

[0270] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

[0271] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.

[0272] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

[0273] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula:"

[0274] "

[0275]

[0276] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 ’-bis(2,2,2’,2’,3,3’-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

[0277] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 1 O’6m2 / s at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

[0278] Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

[0279] Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

[0280] the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;

[0281] the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;

[0282] the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s; and

[0283] the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

[0284] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.

[0285] Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

[0286] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:

[0287]

[0288] in which

[0289] Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and

[0290] m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,

[0291] with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

[0292] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

[0293] the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;

[0294] the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

[0295] the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming;

[0296] the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

[0297] certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

[0298] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.

[0299] The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

[0300] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:

[0301] linear or branched, optionally cyclic, Cs-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane;

[0302] linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and

[0303] mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9- 12 Alkane, C 10- 13 Alkane, C 13 - 14 Alkane, C 13 -15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21 Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 0-12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 1-15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, Cl 2- 13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.

[0304] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquidparaffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

[0305] In one preferred embodiment, the oil comprises at least one mineral oil.

[0306] The amount of the oil(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more, and more preferably 40% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0307] The amount of the oil(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less, and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0308] The amount of oil(s) in the shaping and coloring composition may range from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0309] The amount of oil(s) in the oxidizing composition may be 20% by weight or more, preferably 25% by weight or more, and more preferably 30% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0310] The amount of the oil(s) in the oxidizing composition may be 70% by weight or less, preferably 60% by weight or less, and more preferably 50% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0311] The amount of oil(s) in the oxidizing composition may range from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 25% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0312] - Adjuvant

[0313] The shaping and coloring composition and the oxidizing composition may or may not comprise one or more adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology. The adjuvant may be selected from a physiologically acceptable medium of organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof, such as Polyquatemium-10; cationic, anionic, or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof, such as Steareth-2; cosmetically active ingredients; sugelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants, such as ascorbic acid and sodium metabisulfite; moisturizers; emollients; free-radical scavengers; suspending agents; sequestering agents; chelating agents, such as EDTA; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; essential oils; and mixtures thereof.

[0314] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.

[0315] The adjuvants may be present in the composition in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising steps of: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a shaping and coloring composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0316] (a) from 1% to 30% by weight of at least one amino acid or derivative thereof;

[0317] (b) from 1% to 30% by weight of at least one alkaline agent; and

[0318] (c) optionally at least one oxidative dye,

[0319] wherein the composition has a pH value of higher than 9,

[0320] (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C,

[0321] (iii) applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound.

[0322] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising steps of: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a shaping and coloring composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0323] (a) from 2% to 20% by weight of at least one amino acid or derivative thereof selected from basic amino acids, amino acids having a secondary amino group, aminosulfonic acids; and combinations thereof;

[0324] (b) from 3% to 20% by weight of at least one alkaline agent comprising a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent; and

[0325] (c) optionally at least one oxidative dye,

[0326] wherein the composition has a pH value of ranging from 9.5 to 12,

[0327] (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C,

[0328] (iii) applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound.

[0329] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising steps of: (i) applying to the keratin fibers a shaping and coloring composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

[0330] (a) from 3% to 10% by weight of at least one amino acid or derivative thereof selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, and combinations thereof;

[0331] (b) from 5% to 10% by weight of at least one alkaline agent comprising a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines; and

[0332] (c) optionally at least one oxidative dye,

[0333] wherein the composition has a pH value of ranging from 10 to 11.5,

[0334] (ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C,

[0335] (iii) applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound.

[0336] EXAMPLES

[0337] The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[0338] [Composition]Shaping and coloring compositions according to each of Examples 1 to 5 (Ex. 1 to Ex. 5) and Comparative Example 1 (Comp. Ex. 1) and an oxidizing composition were prepared by mixing ingredients listed in the following Tables 1 and 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0339] Table 1

[0340]

[0341] Table 2

[0342]

[0343] [Processes]

[0344] Curled hair swatches (2.7g, length in curled stage 21.5 cm ) were prepared for each evaluation. Each of the shaping and coloring compositions according to Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Example 1 was applied onto each hair swatch with a brush at a rate of 2g of the composition / g of the hair.

[0345] After leaving the hair swatch for 15 minutes at room temperature (25°C), the hair swatch was heated to 45°C with using a roller ball and kept for 20 minutes at 45°C.

[0346] After cooling down the hair swatch to a room temperature, an oxidizing composition was applied to the hair swatch with a brush at a rate of 1g of the composition / g of the hair. Then, the hair swatch was left at a room temperature for 35 minutes. Then, the oxidizing composition was rinsed off under running water. The hair swatch was dried naturally under an ambient condition.

[0347] [Evaluations](Straightening Efficacy)

[0348] A length of the hair swatch after the treatment were measured with a scale, while a number of curls of the hair swatch was counted visually. After the treatment, the longer the length of the hair is, and the fewer the number of curls in the hair is, the greater the straightening efficacy is produced.

[0349] (Coloring Property)

[0350] The difference in color of the treated hair swatch after the process was measured by measuring the colorimetric values (L*, a*, b*, lightness / green-red / blue-yellow) using a Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600A. AE* (between the swatch before and after the treatment of the coloring process under AL*a*b system) was calculated. The larger AE* is, the better the color property is.

[0351] The results are summarized in Table 3 below.

[0352]

[0353] As can be seen from Table 3, the process according to the present invention could exhibit improved straightening efficacy as well as good coloring property on the hair simultaneously. These results indicate that the process according to the present invention can show improved deformation property of the keratin fibers. Thus, the process according to the present invention has an improved shaping efficacy of not only straightening but also curling and / or perming. [Composition]

[0354] Shaping and coloring compositions according to Example 5 was prepared by mixing ingredients listed in the following Table 4. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.Table 4

[0355]

[0356] [Process]

[0357] Straight hair swatch (2.7g, 27 cm) was prepared for evaluation. The shaping and coloring compositions according to Example 5 was applied onto the hair swatch with a brush at a rate of 2g of the composition / g of the hair. Then, the hair swatch was wound on a hair rod, and heated to 75 °C using a roller ball and kept for 15 minutes at 75 °C.

[0358] After cooling down the hair swatch to a room temperature, the hair swatch was unrolled from the rod, and an oxidizing composition was applied to the hair swatch with a brush at a rate of lg of the composition / g of the hair. The formulation of the oxidizing composition was the same as that used in Example 1 above. Then, the hair swatch was left at a room temperature for 50 minutes. Then, the oxidizing composition was rinsed off under running water. The hair swatch was dried naturally under an ambient condition.

[0359] [Evaluations]

[0360] (Curling Efficacy)

[0361] A length of the hair swatch and a number of after the treatment were measured with a scale, while a number of curls of the hair swatch was counted visually. After the treatment, the shorter the length of the hair is, and the more the number of curls in the hair is, the greater the curling efficacy is produced. The measurement was conduct just after the process (TO) and after 28 shampoos (T28).

[0362] (Coloring Property)

[0363] The difference in color of the treated hair swatch after the process was measured by measuring the colorimetric values (L*, a*, b*, lightness / green-red / blue-yellow) using a Konica Minolta Spectrophotometer CM-3600A. AE* (between the swatch before and after the treatment of the coloring process under AL*a*b system) was calculated. The larger AE* is, the better the color property is. The result was compared with an untreated hair swatch. The measurement was conduct just after the process (TO) and after 28 shampoos (T28).The results are summarized in Table 5 below.

[0364] Table 5

[0365]

[0366] As can be seen from Table 5, the process according to the present invention could exhibit lasting curling efficacy as well as good coloring property on the hair simultaneously. Those performance also are long lasting, and can be maintained even after 28 shampoos. In particular, even though after 28 shampoos, the hair maintained its curled shape very well, by only 1 mm difference. In addition, the hair maintained its color even after 28 shampoos very well because AE* (T28-T0) was within 2, which is good and show low color variation.

[0367] In conclusion, the process according to the present invention is very suitable for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, in particular hair.

Claims

CLAIMS1. A process for simultaneously shaping and coloring keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprising steps of:(i) applying to the keratin fibers a shaping and coloring composition comprising:(a) at least one amino acid or derivative thereof, except from cysteine;(b) at least one alkaline agent; and(c) optionally at least one oxidative dye,wherein the composition has a pH value of higher than 9,(ii) heating the keratin fibers at a temperature of at least 40°C,(iii) applying to the keratin fibers an oxidizing composition comprising at least one oxidizing compound.

2. The process according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) at least one amino acid is selected from basic amino acids.

3. The process according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) at least one amino acid is selected from amino acids having a secondary amino group.

4. The process according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) at least one amino acid is selected from aminosulfonic acids.

5. The process according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) at least one amino acid is selected from lysine, arginine, histidine, proline, taurine, glycine, and combinations thereof.

6. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (b) at least one alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent and at least one organic alkaline agent.

7. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (b) at least one alkaline agent comprises a combination of at least one inorganic alkaline agent including sodium hydroxide and at least one organic alkaline agent selected from alkanolamines.

8. The process according to Claim 6 or 7, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one inorganic alkaline agent to the at least one organic alkaline agent ranges from 50: 1 to 1 :5, preferably from 30:1 to 1:2, and preferably 10:1 to 1:1.

9. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (a) at least one amino acid is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the shaping and coloring composition.

10. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (b) at least one alkaline agent is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the shaping and coloring composition.

11. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the pH value of the shaping and coloring composition ranges from 9.5 to 12, preferably from 10 to 11.5, and morepreferably from 10.5 to 11.

12. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein step (ii) is performed for a time period of from 1 minute to one hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, and more preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.

13. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the (b) at least one alkaline agent is free of ammonia.

14. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the shaping and coloring composition comprises the (c) at least one oxidative dyes other than para-phenylenediamine type oxidative dyes and resorcinol and derivatives thereof.

15. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, wherein the shaping and coloring composition is free of any direct dyes.

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