Use of an agent based on an adenosine / urea complex for reducing hair breakage

Abstract

The use of an agent (a), comprising: (a1) adenosine, (a2) urea and / or a urea derivative, (a3) a cosmetic carrier, leads to the alleviation, prevention and / or elimination of damage to hair fibers and / or the scalp, in particular to a significant reduction of hair breakage and to regeneration of the scalp.

Description

[0001] Henkel AG & Co. KGaA

[0002] Dr. Ludwig

[0003] "Use of a product based on an adenosine / urea complex to reduce hair breakage"

[0004] The subject of the present application is the use of an agent (a) for reducing hair breakage and / or for regenerating the scalp before, after or during a hair coloring, bleaching or cleaning process, wherein the agent (a) comprises adenosine (a1) as well as urea and / or a urea derivative (a2) in a specific cosmetic carrier (a3).

[0005] The present application further relates to a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for the treatment of hair and / or scalp, which comprises at least two different agents (a) – as defined above – and (b) in separately packaged containers. Agent (b) comprises water and at least one coloring and / or bleaching component for hair (b1) and / or water and at least one anionic and / or non-ionic surfactant (emulsifier) ​​(b2).

[0006] Another subject of the present application is a hair treatment method using the means from the multi-component packaging unit.

[0007] Changing the shape and color of human hair is an important area of ​​modern cosmetics. Depending on the desired result, professionals are familiar with various coloring systems for altering hair color. For permanent, intense colorations with good colorfastness and gray coverage, oxidative dyes are typically used. These dyes contain oxidative dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which react with oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide to form the actual dyes. Oxidative dyes are characterized by very long-lasting color results.

[0008] Excessive stress on hair, such as from coloring, bleaching, or perming, frequent washing and drying, as well as environmental pollution, can lead to damage to the hair fibers. This damage is easily recognizable both visually and to the touch, often manifesting as a lack of shine, volume, and smoothness. Depending on the extent of the damage, damaged hair fibers may feel dull or dry, and breakage and / or split ends can occur. Just as the hair fibers can be affected, the natural balance of the scalp can also be disrupted by the aforementioned treatments, potentially leading to dryness, itching, and flaking. Therefore, the importance of long-lasting hair care products is steadily increasing.

[0009] Conventional or commercially available hair care products can repair hair fibers on their surface and partially within, thereby achieving very good conditioning effects. However, these benefits are often only temporary and not long-lasting, as they can wash out again. Frequent conditioning is therefore particularly necessary for severely damaged hair fibers, which can lead to an undesirable buildup effect due to over-conditioning, resulting in heavy and / or greasy hair.

[0010] The present application was based on the task of finding technologies that make it possible to immediately avoid and / or alleviate and / or eliminate impairments caused during hair treatment (such as damage to the hair fibers and / or the scalp).

[0011] At the same time, a conditioning benefit should be achieved on the hair and scalp; in particular, fine hair and / or damaged hair should not be weighed down.

[0012] Surprisingly, it has now been found that the aforementioned tasks can be excellently solved by the use of specific means (a) comprising an active ingredient complex of adenosine and urea (derivative) in a suitable cosmetic carrier.

[0013] The adenosine / urea complex contained in the product (a) enables the relief, prevention and / or elimination of damage to the hair fibers and / or scalp; in particular, the use of the product (a) leads to a significant reduction in hair breakage and to scalp regeneration.

[0014] Another advantage is that the aforementioned care benefits also improve the optical and haptic properties of hair fibers and the scalp.

[0015] A first object of the present invention is the use of an agent (a) for reducing hair breakage and / or for regenerating the scalp before, after or during a coloring, bleaching or cleansing process, wherein the agent (a) comprises:

[0016] (a1) Adenosine

[0017] (a2) Urea and / or a urea derivative

[0018] (a3) a cosmetic carrier.

[0019] The first essential ingredient (a1) of the agent (a) to be used according to the invention contains adenosine.

[0020] Adenosine is a nucleoside and consists of the nucleobase adenine and the sugar β-D-ribose. For the purposes of this invention, the term "adenosine" also includes adenosine derivatives, such as adenosine 5'-phosphates. However, it is preferred that the compound (a) contains—if any—only a limited amount of adenosine derivatives, such as adenosine 5'-phosphates, e.g., adenosine monophosphate (INCI: Adenosine Phosphate), adenosine diphosphate, and / or adenosine triphosphate (INCI: Adenosine Triphosphate). It is more preferred that the compound (a) contains less than 0.5 wt%, particularly preferably less than 0.2 wt%, and especially less than 0.1 wt%, adenosine derivatives from the group of adenosine phosphates. In particular, it may be preferred that the composition (a) is free of adenosine phosphates. Adenosine is preferably used in the composition (a) to be used according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.01 to 3 wt.% of the total weight of the composition (a).Weight fractions of 0.05 to 2.5 wt.% are more preferred, 0.1 to 2 wt.% are further preferred, 0.2 to 1.5 wt.% are particularly preferred and especially 0.25 to 1.0 wt.% are preferred.

[0021] The second essential ingredient (a2) of the agent to be used according to the invention contains agent (a) urea and / or at least one urea derivative.

[0022] The term ‘urea or urea derivatives’ preferably refers to compounds of the following general formula (I)

[0023]

[0024] wherein

[0025] the remains R 1 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of each other stand for a hydrogen atom, a Ci to C4 alkyl group, a C2 to Ce alkenyl group or a C2 to Ce hydroxyalkyl group with at least one hydroxyl group.

[0026] Examples of suitable C1 to C4 alkyl groups are methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, and tert-butyl. Examples of suitable C2 to C5 alkenyl groups are vinyl, 2-propen-1-yl (allyl), and 3-buten-1-yl. Examples of suitable C2 to Ce hydroxyalkyl groups are 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxy-2-methylprop-2-yl, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylprop-2-yl, 1,3-dihydroxyprop-2-yl, tris(hydroxymethyl)methyl, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-hydroxymethylprop-2-yl, 2,3-dihydroxypropyl, 2-Hydroxypropyl, 3-Hydroxypropyl, 4-Hydroxybutyl, 1-Hydroxy-2-methylprop-2-yl, 2, 3, 4,5,6-Pentahydroxyhexyl or 1,3,4,5,6-Pentahydroxyhex-2-yl.

[0027] Particularly preferred compounds according to formula (I) are urea (= urea, i.e. R) 1 to R 4each represents a hydrogen atom), N-(2-Hydroxyethyl)urea or N-(2-Hydroxyethyl)urea, N-(3-Hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-Hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-Hydroxy-2-methyl-prop-2-yl)urea, N-(1,3-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-prop-2-yl)urea and N-(1,3-Dihydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-prop-2-yl)urea.

[0028] Urea and / or N-(2-Hydroxyethyl)urea are particularly preferred, available, for example, as the commercial product Hydrovance® from National Starch.

[0029] Compounds according to formula (I), in particular urea and / or N-(2-hydroxyethyl)urea, are preferably used in the compositions (a) to be used according to the invention in a total weight fraction of 1.0 to 20 wt.% of the total weight of the compositions (a). More preferred are weight fractions of 1.0 to 15 wt.%, further preferred 1.5 to 10 wt.%, particularly preferred 1.5 to 7.5 wt.% and particularly 2.0 to 6.0 wt.%.

[0030] In a preferred embodiment, urea and / or N-(2-hydroxyethyl)urea can also be used in combination in the agents (a) to be used according to the invention. In such cases, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)urea and urea are preferably used in the aforementioned total weight proportions and in a weight ratio of 20:1 to 1:10.

[0031] In a preferred embodiment, the means to be used according to the invention (a) contain - based on their total weight - (a1) 0.01 to 3 wt.% adenosine

[0032] (a2) 1.0 to 20 wt% urea and / or a urea derivative, preferably urea and / or N-(2-hydroxyethyl)urea,

[0033] in a cosmetic carrier (a3).

[0034] The cosmetic carrier (a3) ​​for the adenosine / urea active ingredient complex according to the invention preferably contains an emulsion.

[0035] The emulsion form is suitable, on the one hand, to stabilize adenosine satisfactorily, and on the other hand, it also offers the possibility of incorporating additional skin and / or hair conditioning active ingredients.

[0036] For the purposes of the present invention, “emulsions” generally include O / W, W / O or multiple macro, micro or nano emulsions as well as PIT emulsions.

[0037] Oil-in-water emulsions are particularly preferred.

[0038] In a preferred embodiment, the carrier (a3) ​​is therefore in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0039] For the use according to the invention, it is further advantageous if the agent (a) is sprayable, so that it can be easily applied to the relevant areas by the user and distributed finely and evenly. Sprayability is particularly advantageous so that agent (a) can be used with exceptional flexibility and ease – for example, by quick and uncomplicated spraying immediately before, during, or after a hair treatment. To meet the requirement of sprayability, it is advantageous if the agent (a) is essentially free of viscosity-increasing ingredients, such as polymers (so-called polyquaternium polymers).

[0040] In this context, "essentially free" means that the agent (a) contains viscosity-increasing ingredients preferably in a weight fraction of at most 1 wt.%, more preferably at most 0.5 wt.%, and particularly preferably at most 0.1 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent (a). To ensure good sprayability, it is advantageous that the agent (a) to be used according to the invention is comparatively low-viscosity.

[0041] For the purposes of the present invention, this means that the agent (a) preferably has a viscosity of at most 250 mPa*s, more preferably 0.5 to 100 mPa*s, particularly preferably 0.8 to 50 mPa*s and particularly 1.0 to 20.0 mPa*s (measured with a Brookfield rotational viscometer type DV1, spindle 1, 20 RPM).

[0042] In a particularly preferred embodiment, means (a) to be used according to the invention comprise a carrier (a3) ​​in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which

[0043] Water

[0044] at least one water-insoluble oil component

[0045] at least one non-ionic emulsifier

[0046] optionally at least one diol or polyol with 3 to 10 carbon atoms

[0047] It contains a buffer system with which a pH value can be set and stabilized in the range of 3.0 - 7.0.

[0048] Particularly preferably, the agent (a) to be used according to the invention has a viscosity of at most 250 mPa*s (measured with a Brookfield rotational viscometer type DV1 , spindle 1 , 20 RPM).

[0049] It is further preferred if the mean droplet diameter of the oil component in the oil-in-water emulsion (a3) ​​is less than 600 nm, more preferably less than 300 nm.

[0050] It is particularly preferred that the agents (a) to be used according to the invention are in the form of PIT emulsions with a finely divided oil-in-water emulsion as a carrier (a3), which contain at least one non-ionic emulsifier and at least one non-ionic co-emulsifier. In this context, "finely divided" is understood to mean a mean droplet diameter as defined above.

[0051] Fine-particle PIT emulsions according to the present invention are preferably produced by heating an aqueous solution of adenosine to a temperature of at most 50°C (preferably at most 45°C) and / or heating the temperature of the fine-particle emulsion of the oil component to 30 to 50°C (preferably 30 to 40°C) and then mixing the adenosine solution with the emulsion.

[0052] Urea and / or a urea derivative is then preferably added in solid form.

[0053] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the means (a) to be used according to the invention are in the form of finely divided PIT emulsions, which, in addition to the adenosine / urea complex,

[0054] Water

[0055] at least one water-insoluble oil component

[0056] at least one non-ionic emulsifier, optionally at least one diol or polyol with 3 to 10 carbon atoms, containing a buffer system with which a pH value in the range of 3.0 - 7.0 can be adjusted and stabilized.

[0057] The water content is preferably 60 to 90 wt.% of the total weight of the PIT emulsion (= agent (a)). A water content of 65 to 90 wt.% and, in particular, 70 to 90 wt.% is more preferred.

[0058] Suitable water-insoluble oil components for the agents (a) to be used according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of fatty acid esters with a fatty acid alkyl chain length of C8 to C36, natural or synthetic triglycerides, hydrocarbons liquid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar and mixtures thereof.

[0059] Suitable fatty acid esters are esters of C8 to C36 fatty acids with saturated alcohols of an alkyl chain length of C3 to C26. Preferably, these are, for example, caprylic acid (C8OOH) esters / capric acid (C10OOH) esters of saturated C12-18 fatty alcohols and / or isopropyl myristic acid esters. These fatty acid esters are preferably used in amounts of 1 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 3 to 15 wt.%, based on the composition (a) according to the invention.

[0060] The natural triglycerides can be of vegetable origin, such as olive oil, almond oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, palm oil, but also the liquid components of coconut oil or palm kernel oil, or mixtures thereof. The natural triglycerides can also be of animal origin, such as hoof oil and / or the liquid components of beef tallow. If natural triglycerides are used, it is preferred according to the invention that they be of vegetable origin. The synthetic triglycerides can be those obtained by esterification of glycerol with fatty acids having 8-22 carbon atoms, e.g., triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid mixtures, triglycerides of technical-grade oleic acid, or of palmitic / oleic acid mixtures, or mixtures thereof.

[0061] The natural or synthetic triglycerides, fatty acid esters, or mixtures thereof are preferably those that are liquid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar. However, higher-melting-point triglycerides and esters corresponding to the specified formulas may also be used in such quantities that the mixture of oil components remains liquid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar.

[0062] These triglycerides are preferably used in amounts of 1.5 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 3.5 to 15 wt.%, based on the agent (a).

[0063] The hydrocarbons, which are liquid at 20 °C and 1013 mbar, can be C11 to C16 hydrocarbons, for example linear C11 to C16 hydrocarbons or branched C11 to C16 hydrocarbons. Preferably, they are, for example, mixtures of n-undecane and n-tridecane or iso-dodecane and / or iso-hexadecane. These hydrocarbons are preferably used in amounts of 1 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 3 to 15 wt.%, based on the agent (a).

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the means (a) to be used according to the invention comprise, as a water-insoluble oil component, caprylic / capric acid esters with saturated C12-18 fatty alcohols, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid mixtures or mixtures thereof in a weight fraction of 2.0 to 10 wt.% of the total weight of the means (a).

[0065] Non-ionic emulsifiers can preferably be used in the compositions (a) according to the invention in a weight fraction of 0.1–20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the compositions. Weight fractions of 0.5–17.5 wt.% are more preferred and 1–15 wt.% are particularly preferred.

[0066] In a preferred embodiment, the agent (a) to be used according to the invention is provided as a PIT emulsion as described above.

[0067] Within this embodiment, the means to be used according to the invention (a) contain, in addition to the active ingredients (a1), (a2) and previously described water-insoluble oil components, water and preferably at least two different non-ionic emulsifiers, wherein one of the emulsifiers has an HLB value in the range of 10-18 and the other has an HLB value in the range of 1-8.

[0068] Non-ionic emulsifiers with HLB values ​​in the range of 10 to 18 can, for example, be selected from

[0069] Alkoxylated C8-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably alkoxylated C16-C22 fatty alcohols. Preferably, these are ethoxylated C8-C22 fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 EO, more preferably ethoxylated C16-C18 fatty alcohols with 12 to 20 EO, particularly preferably emulsifiers and / or alkyl polyglucosides known under the INCI names Ceteareth-20 and / or Ceteareth-12, preferably C8-C24 polyglucosides and particularly preferably C8-C18 polyglucosides. Alkyl polyglucosides known under the INCI names Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside are particularly preferred.

[0070] Non-ionic emulsifiers with HLB values ​​in the range of 1 to 8 can, for example, be selected from

[0071] C8-C22 Monofatty acid esters of glycerol, preferably glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monolaurate and / or glyceryl caprylate; C10-C18 Monofatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate and / or sorbitan monostearate

[0072] C12-C22 fatty alcohols, preferably cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and / or behenyl alcohol or mixtures thereof.

[0073] To stabilize effective amounts of adenosine and / or urea (derivatives) in cosmetic carriers, it has previously been necessary to add higher amounts of alcohols, especially ethanol, to the carriers.

[0074] However, this is undesirable with regard to good (scalp) skin tolerance, which is why only small amounts of a maximum of 5 wt% ethanol are added to the carrier (a3) ​​- if at all.

[0075] Instead, it was found that other excipients can be used to satisfactorily stabilize agents (a) to be used according to the invention and also to improve their conditioning properties, particularly with regard to the balance of skin moisture.

[0076] Suitable excipients fulfilling these purposes are preferably selected from the group of diols or polyols with 3 to 10 carbon atoms, glycol ethers, glycerol, or mixtures thereof. Suitable diols or polyols with 3 to 10 carbon atoms preferably include glycols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0077] Glycol ethers within the meaning of the present invention are ethylene glycol monomethyl ethers, ethylene glycol monoethyl ethers, ethylene glycol monopropyl ethers, ethylene glycol monobutyl ethers or mixtures thereof.

[0078] In a preferred embodiment, the agent(s) (a) contain as excipient(s) 1,2-propanediol, glycerin or mixtures thereof.

[0079] The excipients described above can be used in the compositions (a) to be used according to the invention preferably in a total amount of 1 to 20 wt.%, more preferably 1 to 15 wt.%, and particularly 1 to 10 wt.%. 1,2-Propanediol, glycerin, or mixtures thereof are particularly preferably used in the aforementioned amounts.

[0080] It has also proven advantageous to further stabilize the agent (a) to be used according to the invention by a buffer system. This facilitates improved storage, particularly at elevated temperatures such as 40°C.

[0081] The buffer substances and their concentrations are preferably chosen such that the active substances (a1) and (a2) are stabilized in the aqueous composition.

[0082] Suitable buffer systems can be selected from lactic acid / lactate buffers, for example containing sodium lactate, or citric acid / disodium hydrogen phosphate buffers.

[0083] When a lactic acid / sodium lactate buffer is used, different concentrations are possible. It is preferred that the concentration of lactic acid be 0.5 to 3.5 wt.% and of sodium lactate 1.5 to 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the compound (a). In particular, it is preferred that the ratio of lactic acid to sodium lactate be between 0.02 and 2.3 in this range. For some embodiments, the concentration of lactic acid may preferably be between 0.5 and 2 wt.% and of sodium lactate 1.5 to 2.5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the compound (a). In particular, it is preferred that the ratio of lactic acid to sodium lactate be between 0.3 and 0.8 in this range.

[0084] For other embodiments, the concentration of lactic acid is preferably 2 to 3 wt.%, particularly preferably 2.2 to 2.6 wt.%, and of sodium lactate 13 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 15.5 to 17.0 wt.%, based on the total weight of the agent (a). In particular, it is preferred that in this quantity range the ratio of lactic acid to sodium lactate is 0.1 to 0.2.

[0085] If a citric acid / disodium hydrogen phosphate buffer is used, the concentration of citric acid monohydrate is preferably 0.5 to 1.5 wt% and of disodium hydrogen phosphate dihydrate preferably 0.8 to 2.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the compound (a). If citric acid and / or disodium hydrogen phosphate are used in anhydrous form, the concentrations must be reduced accordingly.

[0086] In particular, it is preferred that in this quantity range the ratio of citric acid monohydrate to disodium hydrogen phosphate dihydrate is between 0.2 and 2.0.

[0087] In one embodiment, it is preferred that the agent (a) comprises a lactic acid / sodium lactate buffer which stabilizes the pH of the agent and maintains it in a range of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 4.0 to 6.0, particularly 4.2 to 5.5.

[0088] In a further embodiment, it is preferred that the agent (a) comprises a citric acid / disodium hydrogen phosphate buffer which stabilizes the pH of the agent and maintains it in a range of 3.0 to 7.0, preferably 4.0 to 6.0, particularly 4.2 to 5.5.

[0089] A second object of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for the treatment of hair and / or the scalp, comprising separately assembled components.

[0090] a first container with a means (a) as defined above,

[0091] a second container with a means (b), wherein the means (b) contains:

[0092] (b1) Water and at least one colouring and / or bleaching component for hair and / or

[0093] (b2) Water and at least one anionic and / or non-ionic surfactant (emulsifier).

[0094] The containers containing agents (a) and (b) may be, for example, sachets, bottles, cans, jars or other containers suitable for cosmetic formulations.

[0095] The agent (b) is preferably characterized by (b1) water in a weight fraction of 50 to 95 wt.% and at least one coloring and / or at least one bleaching component in a weight fraction of 0.001 to 10 wt.% and / or

[0096] (b2) Water in a weight fraction of 50 to 95% and at least one anionic and / or non-ionic surfactant (emulsifier) ​​in a total weight fraction of 1 to 20%,

[0097] where the quantities refer to the total weight of the agents (b1) and (b2).

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, the agent (b) contained in the second container of the multi-component packaging unit is a hair dye (b1) which contains at least one coloring component.

[0099] For the purposes of this invention, coloring components are understood to be substances capable of imparting color to hair. Particularly suitable coloring components can be selected from the group of:

[0100] a) Oxidation dye precursors and / or

[0101] b) nature-inspired dyes and / or

[0102] c) Oxo dye precursors and / or

[0103] d) direct dyes and / or

[0104] e) Pigments and / or

[0105] f) photochromic dyes and / or

[0106] g) thermochromic dyes.

[0107] The manufacture and application of corresponding hair dyes are known per se. For example, hair dyes and hair dyeing processes with color-imparting components (a) to (d) are described in detail in patent application DE 102009027678 A1. Hair dyes and hair dyeing processes in which the color-imparting components (e) to (g) are used are described, for example, in DE 102019214470 A1.

[0108] Reference is hereby expressly made to the hair dyes and hair dyeing procedures described in these two documents.

[0109] In a further preferred embodiment, the agent (b) contained in the second container of the multi-component packaging unit is a hair cleansing agent (b2) which contains at least one anionic and / or non-ionic surfactant (emulsifier).

[0110] For the purposes of the present invention, suitable anionic surfactants (emulsifiers) are understood to be all anionic surface-active substances suitable for cosmetic use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-soluble anionic group, such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate, or phosphate group, and a lipophilic alkyl group with approximately 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Additionally, the molecule may contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether, and amide groups, as well as hydroxyl groups.

[0111] Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactant types that can be used in agents (b2) include:

[0112] linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),

[0113] Ethercarboxylic acids of the formula RO-(CH2-CH2O)x-CH2-COOH, in which R is a linear or e, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acyl sarcosides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (sarcosinate surfactants), acyl taurides with 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group (taurate surfactants),

[0114] Acyl isethionates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group (isethionate surfactants), sulfosuccinic acid mono- and / or dialkyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups (sulfosuccinate surfactants),

[0115] Alpha-olefin sulfonates with 8 to 24 carbon atoms (alpha-olefin sulfonate surfactants),

[0116] Alkyl sulfates and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts of the formula R-(OCH2-CH2)nO-SO3X, in which R preferably represents a straight-chain or saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 8 to 30 C atoms, x the number 0 or 1 to 12 and X an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion,

[0117] Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, which are addition products of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and / or

[0118] Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates

[0119] Biosurfactants, for example rhamnolipids or sophorolipids.

[0120] Particularly preferred are alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts, (salts of) isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alpha-olefin sulfonates and / or biosurfactants, especially alkyl sulfate and / or alkyl ether sulfate salts.

[0121] Particularly preferred are alkyl(ether) sulfates of the general formula R-(OCH2-CH2)n-OSO3X, in which R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group with 8 to 24 C atoms, n is the number 0 or 1 to 12, and X is an alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium or alkanolamine ion.

[0122] Anionic surfactants can preferably be used in the composition (b2) in a weight fraction of 1–20 wt.% of the total weight of the composition (b2). More preferred are weight fractions of 1.5–17.5 wt.%, particularly preferred 1.5–15 wt.% and especially 2.0–15 wt.%.Suitable non-ionic surfactants and / or emulsifiers may be selected from amine oxides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamine Oxide, Lauramine Oxide and Cocamidopropylamine Oxide, fatty acid alkanolamides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Cocamide MEA and Coamide DEA, mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols such as the commercially available product Montanov®68, sterols such as zoosterols and phytosterols, phospholipids, alkyl (oligo)glycosides such as the compounds known under the INCI names Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside, alkoxylated esters such as the compounds known under the INCI names PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor, polyglycerol esters and / or their salts. Mannosylerythritol lipids (MEL).

[0123] Non-ionic surfactants can preferably be used in the composition (b2) in a weight fraction of 0.1–10 wt.% of the total weight of the composition (b2). Weight fractions of 0.15–7.5 wt.% are more preferred, 0.25–7.5 wt.% is particularly preferred, and especially 0.5–5 wt.% is preferred.

[0124] To optimize skin sensitivity and / or foaming properties, it may be advantageous if product (b2) contains additional surfactants and / or emulsifiers in amounts of up to 5% by weight (based on the total weight of product (b2)). These may be selected from:

[0125] Zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants that carry both a cationic and an anionic charge in the molecule. Preferably, amphoteric surfactants have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO⁻ group. -- or -SOs" group, in addition to a preferably C8-C24 alkyl or acyl group, in the molecule. Furthermore, they are capable of forming internal salts. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are betaines such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, as well as cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl-carboxymethyl glycinate. Particularly preferred are the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants known under the INCI names cocamidopropyl betaine lauramidopropyl betaine, cocoampho(di)acetate, and / or lauroapho(di)acetate. Cationic surfactants of the type of quaternary ammonium compounds, esterquats and / or amidoamines.Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are halides, particularly chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, or the methosulfate salts of the aforementioned compounds. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 20 carbon atoms, as in cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, and / or tricetylmethylammonium chloride.Other preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, as well as the amidoamines known under the INCI names Palmitamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Oleylamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine, or any mixtures of the aforementioned cationic surfactants.

[0126] Other common ingredients that may be present in the cleaning agents (b2) in quantities typical for the respective class of active ingredients are:

[0127] Cationic conditioning polymers, preferably cationic polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose compounds or cationic guar derivatives; natural, mineral, or synthetic oils, fats, and / or waxes, preferably natural (vegetable) oils, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkanes with 8 to 17 hydrocarbons, dialkyl ethers, silicones, fatty alcohols, plant waxes, beeswax, ester oils, dicarboxylic acid esters, ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated mono-, di-, and tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or en fatty acids with glycerol; C2-C10 alcohols, preferably ethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, and mixtures thereof; active ingredients such as L-carnitine and / or its salts and / or derivatives, taurine, vitamins, ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), allantoin;Plant extracts, xanthines, especially caffeine, flavonoids, especially flavonols, bisabolol, creatine, amino acids and / or salts and / or derivatives of amino acids; dyes; UV filters; perfumes; thickeners; chelating agents; anti-dandruff agents, such as piroctone olamines, zinc pyrithione, climbazole, propanediol (di)caprylate, e-polylysine; film-forming polymers; pearlescent agents and / or opacifiers; keratin-reducing agents such as mercaptans, thioglycolate salts, possibly in combination with ammonia or amines; organic acids such as citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid; alkalizing agents such as NaOH or alkanolamines; ceramides; propellants and / or preservatives.

[0128] The manufacture, dosage and application of hair cleansing products are known per se, for example from DE 102011089226 A1, to which explicit reference is hereby made.

[0129] A third object of the present invention is a method for hair treatment, comprising the steps

[0130] (1) Provision of a resource (b)

[0131] (2) Apply the agent (b) provided in step (1) to the hair

[0132] (3) Allow the product (b) applied in step (2) to take effect on the hair

[0133] (4) Rinsing off the product (b) with water

[0134] (5) Provision of a means (a) wherein the means (a) contains: (a1) adenosine

[0135] (a2) Urea and / or a urea derivative

[0136] (a3) a cosmetic carrier, and

[0137] (6) Apply the agent provided in step (5) (a) to the hair,

[0138] (7) Allow the product applied in step (6) to take effect on the hair (a) and

[0139] (8) Rinsing off the product (a) with water,

[0140] where means (a) and (b) have been defined previously.

[0141] Preferred embodiments of the third subject matter of the invention are characterized by methods which

[0142] a hair coloring and / or hair bleaching process wherein the agent (b) contains water and at least one coloring and / or bleaching component for hair (b1) and / or

[0143] a hair cleansing and conditioning procedure comprising the product (b) containing water and at least one anionic and / or non-ionic surfactant (emulsifier) ​​(b2). Examples:

[0144] I) Provision and application of a hair bleaching composition (b)

[0145] The following preparation (b) was prepared (all values ​​are in wt.% unless otherwise stated):

[0146]

[0147] Preparation (b) was mixed with 200 g of an aqueous, 6% hydrogen peroxide solution and the mixture was stirred thoroughly for 3 minutes to form an application mixture.

[0148] The application mixture was then applied to strands of hair (Kerling, Euronaturhaar 4-0), left to work for 30 minutes at 30 °C and rinsed again with water.

[0149] II) Provision and application of a hair care composition (a)

[0150] In a second step, a preparation (a) was produced (all values ​​are in wt.% unless otherwise stated). First, the (co-)emulsifiers were combined with the oil component and water to form a PIT emulsion, which was brought to phase inversion temperature during or after its preparation. The emulsion was then mixed at a temperature of 30 to 35 °C with an aqueous adenosine solution (1.5% to 2.5%) containing the buffer substances, excipients, and pH adjusters, the adenosine solution being at a temperature of approximately 50 °C. After cooling to room temperature (20 °C), perfume was added (optional), followed by urea in solid form, which was stirred into the cooled PIT emulsion. The PIT emulsion with the following composition (see the table below) was low-viscosity (as previously defined) and sprayable.

[0151] It was sprayed from a pump dispenser onto the hair strands, which were still wet after the application of preparation (b), using a manual pump, left on the hair strands for about 5 seconds to 10 minutes and then rinsed with water.

[0152]

[0153] 1 : INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate

[0154] 2 INCI: Ceteareth-12

[0155] 3 : INCI: Coco Caprylate / Caprate

[0156] III) Proof of effectiveness - Hair breakage measurements

[0157] Four strands of hair were used, which were cleansed with SLES (approx. 3% active substance in deionized water, pH 6-7). The strands were then bleached with the above preparation (b). 5 g of the bleaching mixture was applied per g of hair. The pretreatment was completed at least 48 hours before the application of the respective product.

[0158] The hair strands were then treated as follows.

[0159] i. bleached (i.e. only pre-treatment),

[0160] ii. bleached and subsequently treated with PIT emulsion (a) comprising the adenosine / urea complex,

[0161] iii. bleached and then treated with PIT emulsion (a) without adenosine / urea complex, iv. bleached and then treated with repair product (market reference).

[0162] The extent of hair breakage was then determined after combing each strand of hair 20,000 times.

[0163] The results of the measurements can be found in the following table:

[0164]

[0165] Treatment with the PIT emulsion (a) without the adenosine / urea complex (iii) already shows positive effects on hair breakage compared to the medium-bleached control (reference). Hair breakage is significantly reduced by 88%.

[0166] This positive effect of the PIT emulsion (a) can be further improved by the addition of the “adenosine urea complex” (ii): Hair breakage is significantly reduced by 92% compared to the medium bleached control.

Claims

Patent claims:

1. Use of a product (a) for reducing hair breakage and / or regenerating the scalp before, after or during a coloring, bleaching or cleansing process, wherein the product (a) comprises: (a1) Adenosine (a2) Urea and / or a urea derivative (a3) a cosmetic carrier.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the agent (a) is sprayable and has a viscosity of at most 250 mPas (measured using a Brookfield rotational viscometer type DV1, spindle 1, 20 RPM).

3. Use according to one of claims 1 or 2, wherein the agent (a) - based on its total weight - (a1) contains 0.01 to 3 wt.% adenosine (a2) 1.0 to 20 wt% urea and / or a urea derivative.

4. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the urea derivative is 2-hydroxyethylurea.

5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the carrier (a3) ​​is an oil-in-water emulsion.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the carrier (a3) ​​is an oil-in-water emulsion which Water at least one water-insoluble oil component at least one non-ionic emulsifier optionally containing at least one diol or polyol with 3 to 10 carbon atoms, a buffer system with which a pH value in the range of 3.0 - 7.0 is set and stabilized.

7. Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for the treatment of hair and / or scalp, comprehensively packaged separately from each other. a first container with a means (a) as defined above, a second container with a means (b), wherein the means (b) contains: (b1) Water and at least one coloring and / or bleaching component for hair and / or (b2) Water and at least one anionic and / or non-ionic surfactant (emulsifier).

8. Hair treatment procedures, including the steps (1) Provision of a resource (b) (2) Apply the agent (b) provided in step (1) to the hair (3) Action of the agent (b) applied in step (2) on the hair (4) Rinsing off the product (b) with water (5) Provision of a means (a) wherein the means (a) contains: a. (a1) Adenosine b. (a2) Urea and / or a urea derivative c. (a3) ​​a cosmetic carrier, and (6) Apply the agent provided in step (5) (a) to the hair, (7) The agent (a) applied in step (6) takes effect on the hair and (8) Rinsing the agent (a) with water, wherein the agents (a) and (b1) are defined in any one of claims 1 to 7.

9. The method according to claim 8, characterized in that it o comprises a hair coloring and / or hair bleaching process wherein the agent (b) contains water and at least one coloring and / or bleaching component for hair (b1) and / or o a hair cleansing and care procedure comprising the product (b) containing water and at least one anionic and / or non-ionic surfactant (emulsifier) ​​(b2).

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