Cosmetic composition comprising ampelopsis grossedentata leaf extract and hydroxypinacolone retinoate

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to cosmetic composition comprising a) Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract, and b) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, which may increase the collagen III expression in the human skin.

Description

[0001] Cosmetic composition comprising Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate

[0002] Technical field

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract (THEA) and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate.

[0004] Technical background

[0005] A beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, consumers often prefer to apply cosmetic products containing active ingredients delivering a skin benefit. Various literatures have been disclosed describing cosmetic active ingredients.

[0006] THEA has been described in Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2024, 25(1), 416; https: / / doi.org / 10.3390 / ijms25010416, as an Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant Agent in Human Immune Cells.

[0007] US 9827188 B2 discloses THEA in cosmetic compositions for improving the condition and appearance of the skin, such as by improving skin barrier protection, improving hydration and moisturization of the skin and reducing inflammation of the skin, and providing anti-aging properties to the skin. The document discloses a list of suitable antioxidants also comprising sodium metabisulfite, ascorbic acid and tocopherol.

[0008] The anti-aging effects of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate have been described in Ruth, N., and T. Mammone. “1310 Anti-aging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 138.5 (2018): S223.

[0009] Collagen is a constituent protein of the extracellular matrix (ECM) present in a large amount in vertebrate tissues. It is a broad family comprising 29 different types.

[0010] Fibrillar collagen is formed from procollagen fibres, subsequently assembled into a network, and then stabilized by crosslinking. It is the collagen which gives the tissues their mechanical strength and, consequently, participates in maintaining their firmness.

[0011] During ageing of the skin, the amount of collagen decreases overall, thereby leading to a loss of firmness. This phenomenon is all the more pronounced since the skin is, inter alia, subjected to UV radiation. The term photobiological ageing is used.

[0012] i

[0013] PCT25040CNSeveral mechanisms are involved in the reduction of the amount of collagen during tissue ageing: enzymes called collagenases are responsible for the degradation of collagen proteins. In parallel, a non-enzymatic glycation mechanism responsible for the formation of glycated proteins called AGEs (Advanced Glycation End Products), in the extracellular matrix, contributes to a decrease in the functionality of said matrix, and therefore of the skin.

[0014] Collagen is therefore the subject of numerous studies and innovations in the cosmetics field for the development and the improvement of cosmetic active agents aimed at maintaining the firmness of the skin.

[0015] Type III collagen is a fibrillar forming collagen comprising three a1(lll) chains and is expressed in early embryos and throughout embryogenesis. In the adult, type III collagen is a major component of the extracellular matrix in a variety of internal organs and skin.

[0016] Thus, cosmetic compositions said to have an anti-age or anti-ageing effect are known to those skilled in the art. Some cosmetic active agents inhibit, for example, the activity of collagenases, responsible for collagen degradation. Other active agents inhibit the collagen glycation mechanism.

[0017] However, such ingredients make it possible only to prevent collagen degradation and to maintain the amount thereof in the skin, but they do not make it possible to increase it or to increase the firmness of the skin.

[0018] The aim of the present invention is to provide a novel cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredient which makes it possible to increase collagen gene and / or protein expression, and / or to increase the firmness of the skin and / or of the mucous membranes. In particular it is desirable to specifically target the expression levels of collagen III.

[0019] The cosmetic and / or dermatological ingredient must be topically acceptable, easy to formulate and / or to use in a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, and able to be administered topically, on all or part of the skin of the human body and / or of human mucous membranes.

[0020] Summary of invention

[0021] It was now surprisingly found that the collagen III expression levels can be significantly increased and ageing (loss of firmness) of the skin may be addressed by the present invention.

[0022] 2

[0023] PCT25040CNThe invention is a cosmetic composition comprising

[0024] a) Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract, and

[0025] b) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate.

[0026] A further object of the invention is the use of Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate in cosmetic compositions.

[0027] A further object of the invention is the use of Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate to increase the collagen III expression in the human skin.

[0028] It was surprisingly found by the applicant that both ingredients act synergistically in the improved expression of the collagen III in the human skin.

[0029] It is preferred if the cosmetic composition is characterized in that the composition is an emulsion. It is further preferred if it is a water in oil emulsion.

[0030] All the weight percentages (% by weight) given below relate, unless otherwise stated, to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. If ratios of certain components are disclosed in the following description, these ratios refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components.

[0031] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under “normal conditions”. The term "normal conditions" refers to 20°C, 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

[0032] In the following description the terms ’’according to the invention”, “preferred according to the invention” and so on are always directed to the use according to the invention, to the composition and to the method according to the invention.

[0033] For the purposes of the present disclosure, the term "free from" means that the proportion of the respective substance is less than 0.05% by weight. This ensures that entrainments or impurities with these substances are not included as "free from" according to the invention.

[0034] The term “skin” refers solely to the human skin. The term “hair” refers solely to the human head hair.

[0035] 3

[0036] PCT25040CNIf viscosity values are given in this disclosure, then all values relate to a measurement at 25° C in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR No.: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from the company proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. , a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. Measuring body No. 1 (Article No. 2000191), suitable for a viscosity range of up to 10,000 [mPa s], speed range 62.5 min-1, is used as the measuring body.

[0037] Emulsifiers are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "emulsifying agent". Surfactants are understood to be all substances which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) under the name "surfactant".

[0038] According to the invention it is preferred THEA is contained in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 2.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.02 to 1.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.03 to 0.7% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] According to the invention it is preferred Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is contained in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.03 to 0.4% by weight and most preferably from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] According to the invention it is preferred if the ratio by weight between THEA and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is in the range from 6:1 to 1:5, more preferably 2:1 to 1:4 and most preferably 1.1:1 to 1:2.5

[0041] Further it is preferred if the composition according to the invention is an emulsion. It is more preferred if it is an oil in water emulsion.

[0042] The emulsion comprises by definition an oil phase. It is preferred if the total quantity of the oil phase is in the range from 5 to 35% by weight, more preferably from 6.0 to 30% by weight and most preferably from 6.5 to 25% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. By definition emulsifier and surfactants are not part of the oil phase. Nevertheless, fatty alcohols count as part of the oil phase.

[0043] 4

[0044] PCT25040CNPreferred oil which can be contained in the composition according to the invention are selected from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.

[0045] Preferred esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, are selected from the group consisting of hexyldecyl stearate, hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, butyloctanoic acid-2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, ethyl stearate, methyl stearate, , propyl stearate, butyl stearate, ethyl myristate, ethyl palmitate, butyl palmitate, propyl stearate, propyl palmitate, stearyl benzoate, benzyl palmitate, benzyl stearate, palmityl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, palmityl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate. Among those isopropyl myristate and / or isopropyl palmitate are in particular preferred.

[0046] Further it is preferred, if the composition comprises at least one triglyceride. Preferred triglycerides are selected from Cocos Nucifera Oil (Triglyceride (Fractionated Coconut Oil)), Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Astrocaryum sp Triglycerides), C10-18 Triglycerides, C10-40 Isoalkyl Acid Triglyceride, C12-18 Acid Triglyceride, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, C8-12 Acid Triglyceride, Caprylic / capric / myristic / stearic Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Capric / Lauric / Myristic / Oleic Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric / Linoleic Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric / Stearic Triglyceride, Castoryl Maleate (Ceraphyl RMT (Ricinoleyl Monomaleate Triglyceride)), Hydrogenated C12-18 Triglycerides, Lauric / palmitic / oleic Triglyceride, Mustelic / palmitic Triglyceride, Oleic / linoleic Triglyceride, Oleic / Palmitic / Lauric / Myristic / Linoleic T riglyceride, Ricinoleic / caproic / caprylic / capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride and / or Jojoba Oil / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Esters.

[0047] Further preferred triglycerides, which can be contained according to the invention, are natural oils. Preferred natural oils, which can be contained, are coconut oil, (sweet) almond oil, walnut oil, peach kernel oil, apricot kernel oil, avocado oil, tea tree oil, soybean oil, glycine 5

[0048] PCT25040CNsoja oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, tsubaki oil, evening primrose oil, rice bran oil, palm kernel oil, mango kernel oil, cuckoo flower oil, thistle oil, macadamia nut oil, grape seed oil, amaranth seed oil, argan oil, bamboo oil, olive oil, wheat germ oil, pumpkin seed oil, mallow oil, hazelnut oil, safflower oil, canola oil, sasanqua oil, jojoba oil, rambutan oil, cocoa butter, and shea butter.

[0049] It is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises dicaprylyl carbonate. For the case that dicaprylyl carbonate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of dicaprylyl carbonate is in the range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight and most preferably 3 to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0050] It is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises dimethyl capramide. For the case that dimethyl capramide is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of dimethyl capramide is in the range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight and most preferably 3 to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0051] It is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises caprylic / capric triglyceride. For the case that caprylic / capric triglyceride is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of caprylic / capric triglyceride is in the range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight and most preferably 2.5 to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] It is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises dicaprylyl ether. For the case that dicaprylyl ether is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of dicaprylyl ether is in the range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight and most preferably 1.0 to 5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0053] It is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter. For the case that Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter is in the range from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 8% by weight and most preferably 3 to 6% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0054] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises one or more alkanes having 10 to 26 carbon atoms. It is in particular preferred if the one or more alkanes having 10 to 26 carbon atoms are selected from the group consisting of C10-13 Alkane, C12-17 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C14-20 Alkane, C14-22 Alkane,

[0055] 6

[0056] PCT25040CNC15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C16-23 Alkane and C18-21 Alkane. Most preferred is CIS-19 Alkane.

[0057] It is preferred according to the invention if the total quantity of the alkanes having 10 to 26 carbon atoms is in the range from 0.1 to 13% by weight, more preferably from 2.0 to 11% by weight and most preferably from 3.0 to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Further, it is preferred if the composition comprises squalene. For the case that squalane is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of squalene is in the range from 0.5 to 3% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises one or more alkanes having 28 or more carbon atoms. Among those alkanes having 28 or more carbon atoms squalene is preferably contained in the composition according to the invention. It is preferred according to the invention if the total quantity of the alkanes having 28 or more carbon atoms is in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 1.0 to 4.0% by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 3.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0060] Further compounds which can be contained in the oil phase are for example chosen from further branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols since they are obtainable according to the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are hexyldecanol (Eutanol® G 16, Guerbitol® T 16), octyldodecanol (Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 20) and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol.

[0061] Further compounds preferably contained are chosen from the addition products of from 1 to 5 propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C8-22-alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol® APM).

[0062] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises diisopropyl adipate. For the case that diisopropyl adipate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of diisopropyl adipate is in the range from 0.1 to 2.0% by weight calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Further compounds, which can be contained in the composition according to the invention are chosen from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units onto mono- or polyhydric C3-22-alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g., PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid® AP), PPG-9 butyl ether (Breox® B25), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol® E).

[0064] 7

[0065] PCT25040CNFurther compounds preferably contained are chosen from the C8-C22-fatty alcohol esters of monobasic or polybasic C2-C7-hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular, the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C14 / 15-alkanols, e.g., C12-C15-alkyl lactate, and on C12 / 13-alkanols branched in the 2 position are available under the trade name Cosmacol® from Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co., Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ESI, Cosmacol® EMI and Cosmacol® ETI.

[0066] The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more fatty alcohols having 14 to 20 carbon atoms. Among those fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the corresponding mixture cetearyl alcohol are most preferred. For the case that one or more fatty alcohols having 14 to 20 carbon atoms are contained in the composition it is preferred if the total quantity of the fatty alcohols having 14 to 20 carbon atoms is in the range from 0.1 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight and most preferably 1.5 to 4.5 % by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] According to the invention the composition comprises 0.05 to 1% by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] It is in particular preferred if at least xanthan gum is contained. Further it is in particular preferred if at least gellan gum is contained. Further it is in particular preferred if at least sclerotium gum is contained. Further it is in particular preferred if at least dehydroxanthan gum is contained.

[0069] It is advantageous if the composition comprises 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.3% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 0.2% by weight of at least one polymer selected from the group of xanthan gum, gellan gum, sclerotium gum and dehydroxanthan gum, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0070] For the case that xanthan gum is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of xanthan gum is in the range from 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] 8

[0072] PCT25040CNFor the case that sclerotium gum is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of sclerotium gum is in the range from 0.01 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.6% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 0.55% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Further it is preferred according to the invention if a modified starch is contained. Among the modified starches known by the person skilled in art it is in particular preferred if hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is contained. For the case a modified starch is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of the modified starches is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. For the case hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate is in the range from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0074] Further it is preferred if the composition according to the invention comprises further short chain polyols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferred polyols of that type are butylene glycol, glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,2 heptanediol, 1,2 propanediol and caprylyl glycol.

[0075] It is preferred if those preferred polyols are contained in quantities ranging from 0.5 to 12% by weight, more preferably 1 to 10% by weight and most preferably from 1.5 to 9% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0076] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises phenoxyethanol and / or ethylhexylglycerin.

[0077] For the case that phenoxyethanol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of phenoxyethanol is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0078] For the case that ethylhexylglycerin is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of ethylhexylglycerin is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises methylpropanediol and / or 1,2-hexanediol.

[0080] For the case that methylpropanediol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of methylpropanediol is in the range from 0.1 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] 9

[0082] PCT25040CNFor the case that 1 ,2-hexanediol is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of 1 ,2-hexanediol is in the range from 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises hydoxyacetophenone. For the case that hydoxyacetophenone is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of hydoxyacetophenone is in the range from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] Further it is preferred according to the invention if at least one nonionic emulsifier is contained. Preferred nonionic emulsifiers are selected from oleth-20, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, glyceryl stearate citrate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil. For the case that at least one nonionic emulsifier is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of the nonionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 1.3 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[0085] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises at least one anionic emulsifier. Among the well-known anionic emulsifiers (See the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook) the emulsifier sodium stearoyl glutamate is preferably contained in the composition according to the invention. For the case that at least one anionic emulsifier is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of the anionic emulsifier is in the range from 0.1 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition. For the case that sodium stearoyl glutamate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium stearoyl glutamate is in the range from 0.1 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 0.2 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] For the preferred case that glyceryl stearate citrate is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of glyceryl stearate citrate is in the range from 0.1 to 4.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.0% by weight and most preferably 0.3 to 2.8% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] It is further preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises citric acid and / or sodium citrate.

[0088] 10

[0089] PCT25040CNFurther it is preferred according to the invention if the composition comprises complex formers selected from ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and / or trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

[0090] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises sodium metabisulfite. For the case that sodium metabisulfite is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of sodium metabisulfite is in the range from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0091] Further it is preferred if the composition comprises water. For the case that water is contained it is preferred if the total quantity of water is in the range from 50.0 to 85.0% by weight, more preferably 60.0 to 82.0% by weight and most preferably 65.0 to 80.0% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] The compositions of the invention may further comprise active ingredients which can have a beneficial aspect for the human skin. Preferred examples of such active ingredients are glycyrrhetinic acid, arctiin, folic acid, coenzyme Q10 (ubiquinone), alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, caffeine, natural and I or synthetic isoflavonoids, glycerylglucose, creatine, creatinine, taurine, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, vitamin C, vitamin C phosphate, vitamin C palmitate, niacinamides, vitamin A palmitate, retinol, panthenol, glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, licochalcon A, 4-butylresorcinol, N - [(2,4-dihydroxyphenyl) thiazol-2-yl] isobutyramide, honociol and magnolol (also as a component of Magnolia- Extracts), hyaluronic acid and I or silymarin.

[0093] Examples

[0094] The following examples should illustrate the composition of this invention, without, however, intending to limit the invention to these examples. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the compositions.

[0095] The invention is described by the following experimental results. The following reagents have been employed for the test procedure: DMEM culture medium (Gibco), PBS (Solarbio), TGF-P1 (Peprotech), MTT (Sigma), DMSO (Sigma), RNAiso Plus (Accurate Biology), Reverse transcription kit (AccurateBiology), Fluorescent dyes (Accurate Biology).

[0096] n

[0097] PCT25040CN1. Incubation: the cells (fibroblasts, batch number: Fb220309, provided by Guangdong Biocell Biotechnology Co., LTD) were thawed. When the cell laying rate reached about 60%, the cells were seeded into 6-well plates, and incubated overnight in CO2 incubator (37°C, 5% CO2).

[0098] 2. Solution preparation: The working solutions were prepared as outlined below:

[0099] • Blank control (BC): DMSO

[0100] • Positive control (PC): TGF-pi 100ng / mL in DMSO

[0101] • Sample A: 0.0078 mg / mL Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate in DMSO

[0102] • Sample B: 0.0078 mg / mL Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract in DMSO • Sample C: 0.0039 mg / mL Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate and 0.0039 mg / mL Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract in DMSO

[0103] 3. Administration: According to the test groups, when the rate of cell planking in the 6- well plate reached the range 30%-50%, performed administration with 3 replications in each group. Blank control was added with 2 mL culture medium in each well, positive control group with 2mL culture medium containing the corresponding concentrations of samples in each well. After administration, the 6-well plate was incubated in an incubator (37°C, 5% CO2) for 24h.

[0104] 4. ELISA detection: After incubation, collected the cell culture solution. The detection and analysis were carried out according to the operating instructions of each ELISA kit.

[0105] 5. Gene expression level detection: After incubation, washed twice with 1 mL / well PBS, added 1 mL RNAiso Plus per well. After blowing the lysed, collected the samples After RNA extracted and reversed-transcribed into cDNA a fluorescence quantitative PCR was performed. The results were calculated by employing the 2AACTmethod. 6. Improvement rate calculation:

[0106] Sample group — Blank control group Improvement rate ln% = - ■ — ■ - ■ - %100% Blank control group

[0107] 7. Statistical analysis: GraphPad Prism software was used to analyze the data, the result was expressed as mean ±SD. The comparisons between groups were performed using independent-sample t-test statistical analysis. The statistical analysis was two-tailed. P<0.05 was considered as significant difference while P<0.01 was considered as extremely significant difference.

[0108] The determined type III collagens are the following:

[0109] Table 1

[0110]

[0111] 12

[0112] PCT25040CN

[0113]

[0114] It can be seen that the combination of the invention allows for a synergistic improvement of the collagen III level.

[0115] The following formulations have been prepared:

[0116] Table 2

[0117]

[0118] 13

[0119] PCT25040CN

[0120]

[0121] Table 3

[0122]

[0123] 14

[0124] PCT25040CN

Claims

Claims1. Cosmetic composition comprisinga) Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract (THEA), andb) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that THEA is contained in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 1.0% by weight and more preferably from 0.03 to 0.7% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is contained in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.03 to 0.4% by weight and more preferably from 0.05 to 0.2% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that the ratio by weight between THEA and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is in the range from 6:1 to 1:5, preferably 2:1 to 1:4 and more preferably 1.1:1 to 1:2.5.

5. Composition according to any of the proceeding claims characterized in that composition is an emulsion.

6. Composition according to claim 5 characterized in that the total quantity of the oil phase is in the range from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 16.0 to 30% by weight and more preferably from 6.5 to 25% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to claim 6 characterized in that at least one oil is contained, which is selected from the esters of the linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated.

8. Use of Ampelopsis Grossedentata Leaf Extract and Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate to increase the collagen III expression in the human skin.15PCT25040CN

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