Film-forming substances and their use in pharmacy and cosmetics

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film-forming agent, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application.

Description

[0001]

[0002] Film-forming substances and their use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics

[0003] The present invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, in particular the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, compositions or products for topical application.

[0004] In particular, the present invention relates to the technical field of additives, especially functional additives for the cosmetics and pharmaceuticals sector, preferably dermatology, and in particular film-forming additives for the cosmetics and pharmaceuticals sector, preferably dermatology.

[0005] In particular, the present invention relates to the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application, or the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, as well as a corresponding cosmetic or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application.

[0006] Furthermore, the present invention relates to a functional additive, in particular a film former, for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application or for use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application.

[0007] Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a mixture (combination) (a) of a polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and (b) of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology.

[0008]

[0009] Furthermore, the present invention also relates to a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology.

[0010] Finally, the present invention relates to a method for improving the film-forming properties of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application.

[0011] Film formation is a key component of many pharmaceutical and cosmetic products for topical applications, as it significantly influences application, stability, and drug release, particularly on skin, mucous membranes, hair, and similar surfaces. The film's primary function is to form a continuous, uniform, and protective layer on a surface, exhibiting specific mechanical, physical, and chemical properties depending on its overall composition.

[0012] Film formation can be desired for various purposes in topical applications in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical sectors, or the film can fulfill different purposes. The following are purely exemplary purposes, without limitation or claim to completeness:

[0013] A film can, for example, form a barrier against external influences such as pollution, UV radiation, or microorganisms, protecting the skin, mucous membranes, or hair from irritation and infection. It can also form a barrier against water, enabling long-lasting protection, even in contact with water or sweat, as is the case with sunscreens or water-resistant cosmetic or dermatological products. Furthermore, a film can facilitate the controlled and prolonged release of active ingredients, thereby improving the efficacy of dermatological or cosmetic products. In addition, particularly in decorative cosmetics, a film ensures that makeup products such as lipsticks, foundations, or mascaras adhere better and are more water-resistant.A film can also be used to retain skin moisture by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is particularly beneficial for dry or sensitive skin. In anti-aging products, films are used to smooth the skin, visibly reduce fine lines, and create an even complexion. Furthermore,

[0014]

[0015] In particular, in pharmaceuticals, this enables the adhesion of active ingredients to the skin or mucous membrane (e.g. in transdermal patches or dermatological preparations), thereby achieving more precise application and dosage.

[0016] Due to these examples of the use of films in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, the provision of a film-forming composition for topical applications is often desirable.

[0017] Film formation is primarily based on physical and / or chemical processes, which are influenced by the product composition and external factors such as temperature, humidity, and the substrate. A distinction is typically made between solvent-based and dispersion-based systems.

[0018] Solvent-based systems utilize the evaporation of an organic or aqueous solvent to leave a uniform polymer matrix.

[0019] Dispersion-based systems, on the other hand, contain polymers that form a layer or film through coalescence or chemical cross-linking. These polymers are known as film formers or film-forming substances.

[0020] Film-forming agents are typically classified into three classes according to their chemical structure and origin: Synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), acrylates and polyurethanes; natural polymers, such as polysaccharides like chitosan, alginates, cellulose derivatives, proteins like gelatin or silk fibroin; and biodegradable polymers, such as polylactide (PLA), polyglycolic acid (PGA) or modified biopolymers.

[0021] The quality of a film depends on various factors, such as: adhesion and cohesion (which determine in particular the ability to adhere to the skin or mucous membrane as well as the internal stability of the film), elasticity and flexibility (which are particularly important for the application feel or skin comfort in cosmetic applications or the adaptation to skin movements), water resistance (which is particularly important for sun protection and make-up products) and permeability (which regulates in particular the release of moisture or the release of active ingredients in pharmaceutical applications).

[0022]

[0023] In the pharmaceutical industry, film-forming substances are used, for example, to promote wound healing by forming protective layers that encourage skin regeneration. These substances can also form transdermal systems that enhance drug penetration. Furthermore, they may be used in ophthalmic applications, functioning as artificial tears or as a protective layer for the cornea.

[0024] Cosmetic and dermatological topical applications require highly functional film formers that ensure pleasant textures and long-lasting effects. In decorative cosmetics, film formers are used, for example, in lipsticks, foundations, waterproof mascaras, hair gels, and styling products. Film formers can also provide particularly long-lasting and effective sun protection by combining water-resistant UV protection products with film-forming technology.

[0025] Film formers in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries, particularly in dermatology, must therefore meet a highly complex and extensive set of requirements, encompassing a multitude of application and performance characteristics (such as durability, long-term stability, biodegradability, lubricity, penetration properties, water-binding capacity, moisture stability, and the like). However, with state-of-the-art film formers, it is not always possible, or not readily possible, to reliably and reproducibly meet this complex and extensive set of requirements.

[0026] In addition, stricter regulatory requirements, as well as environmental and consumer protection considerations, are adding further requirements such as biodegradability, approval for consumption, bio-based raw materials, sustainability, etc.

[0027] Due to the multitude of applications and ever-evolving requirements, the development and provision of new film-forming substances is essential. Furthermore, sustainability is playing an increasingly important role, necessitating environmentally friendly and biodegradable alternatives. It is also necessary to provide a wide range of skin-compatible film-forming agents, particularly those based on hypoallergenic and / or non-irritating substances.

[0028]

[0029] WO 2024 / 115212 A1 concerns a process for the production of at least partially saponified wax esters. The base material is natural waxes, such as beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, wool wax, or the like. The wax may also contain aliphatic ρ-hydroxy acids and / or aliphatic α,ρ-alkanediols and / or esters of aliphatic ρ-hydroxy acids and / or esters of aliphatic α,ρ-alkanediols. The saponified wax esters can be used, for example, as film formers. A disadvantage is that the use of saponified waxes results in low water resistance, inferior sensory properties, and reduced film stability. Furthermore, there is an increased allergy potential, particularly when using wool wax.

[0030] The previously described state of the art therefore lacks a way to provide a film former that has high compatibility with regard to topical applications on skin, mucous membranes and hair, especially with hypoallergenic, non-irritating and non-cytotoxic effects, but still has high performance and can also be provided on a 100% natural basis, in particular with a NOI (Natural Origin Index) of 1 according to ISO 16128.

[0031] Overall, the state of the art lacks film formers that can be used in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, topical applications and that fully meet the aforementioned extensive and complex requirements profile.

[0032] The problem underlying the present invention therefore consists in the development of an efficient concept to provide a functional additive, in particular a film former, wherein the functional additive, in particular the film former, is to be suitable for use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) intended for topical application, wherein the disadvantages of the prior art described above are to be avoided at least to a large extent or at least mitigated.

[0033] In particular, an object of the present invention is to provide a functional additive, especially a film former, for use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products), especially dermatological ones, intended for topical application, as well as in the corresponding compositions (products) themselves, wherein such a functional additive, especially a film former, should be available based on natural raw materials, particularly with good compatibility and tolerability with regard to cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.

[0034]

[0035] Applications and with simultaneously good application or performance characteristics, such as durability, long-term stability, biodegradability, bio-basedness, lubricity, penetration properties, water binding capacity, moisture stability or the like.

[0036] Finally, a functional additive, in particular a film former, should be provided which can be used in the field of cosmetic and pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, topical applications and which can meet the aforementioned extensive and complex requirements profile, especially in its entirety.

[0037] To solve the problem described above, the present invention proposes – according to a first aspect of the present invention – the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, according to claim 1; further, in particular special and / or advantageous embodiments of the use according to the invention are the subject of the corresponding dependent claims.

[0038] Furthermore, according to a second aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application according to the relevant independent product claim; further, in particular special and / or advantageous embodiments of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to the invention are the subject of the relevant dependent claims.

[0039] Furthermore, according to a third aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a functional additive, in particular a film former, for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application according to the relevant independent product claim; further, in particular special and / or advantageous embodiments of the functional additive according to the invention are the subject of the relevant dependent claims.

[0040]

[0041] Furthermore, according to a fourth aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a mixture (combination) (a) of a polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and (b) of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, according to the independent claim in this respect; further, in particular special and / or advantageous embodiments of the mixture (combination) according to the invention are the subject of the dependent claims in this respect.

[0042] Furthermore, according to a fifth aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, according to the relevant product claim; further, in particular special and / or advantageous embodiments of the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the invention are the subject of the relevant dependent claims.

[0043] Finally, according to a sixth aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a method for improving the film-forming properties of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application according to the relevant method claim; further, in particular special and / or advantageous embodiments of the method according to the invention are the subject of the relevant dependent claims.

[0044] It goes without saying that the following explanations state that embodiments, designs, advantages and the like, which are described below for the purpose of avoiding repetition only with regard to one aspect of the invention, naturally also apply to the other aspects of the invention without the need for separate mention.

[0045]

[0046] With regard to all the relative or percentage weight-related specifications mentioned below, in particular relative quantity or weight specifications, it should also be noted that, within the scope of the present invention, these must be selected by the person skilled in the art in such a way that, in sum, including all components or ingredients, in particular as defined below, they always add up to 100% or 100% by weight; however, this is self-evident to the person skilled in the art.

[0047] Furthermore, it should be noted that the person skilled in the art may, if necessary, deviate from the scope specifications listed below, depending on the application or the specific circumstances, without leaving the scope of the present invention.

[0048] Furthermore, it should be noted that all values ​​or parameters mentioned below, or the like, can generally be determined using standardized or explicitly specified determination procedures, or alternatively, using determination or measurement methods that are generally familiar to those skilled in the art in this field.

[0049] Furthermore, for the purposes of describing the present invention, the features of the present invention cited in connection with specific embodiments, configurations, advantages, examples, or the like are also considered disclosed in combination. Thus, higher-order combinations of individual or multiple features cited for specific embodiments, configurations, application examples, or the like are also considered disclosed.

[0050] In particular, with regard to the features characterizing the invention, all possible combinations of these features shall be deemed disclosed, with embodiments of comparable or corresponding preference of the various features in their combination being preferred (e.g. quantities or quantity ranges).

[0051] It is particularly important to note that for the following quantity specifications relating to the various ingredients or the like, especially relative or absolute quantities of the same preference or level of preference, the respective combinations relating to the various ingredients with the corresponding preference or level of preference are also disclosed. Likewise, all other combinations (i.e., combinations based on different preferences or levels of preference) are also disclosed.

[0052] Having said that, the present invention will now be explained in detail below.

[0053]

[0054] The subject matter of the present invention – according to a first aspect of the present invention – is thus the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology.

[0055] wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I)

[0056]

[0057] where in the general formula (I)

[0058] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0059] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0060] • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and

[0061] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0062] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0063]

[0064] As explained below, the present invention is associated with a multitude of completely unexpected advantages, features and surprising technical effects, the following description of which makes no claim to completeness, but illustrates the inventive character of the present invention:

[0065] For, as the applicant has now discovered quite unexpectedly, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the present invention, which has repeating units of the general formula (I), can be used as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) intended for topical application, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention is available based on natural raw materials and in particular simultaneously exhibits good compatibility and tolerability with regard to cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications and good application and performance properties, such as durability, long-term stability, biodegradability, bio-basedness, lubricity, penetration properties, water-binding capacity, moisture stability or the like.

[0066] In particular, the applicant has now discovered, quite surprisingly, that a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer, which has repeating units of the general formula (I), can be used according to the present invention as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions for topical application and can thereby fulfill the extensive and complex requirement profile as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in its entirety.

[0067] The use of the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, particularly as a film former, according to the invention, enables the provision of a 100% natural film former which, in particular, has a Natural Origin Index (NOI) of 1 according to ISO 16128 and is hypoallergenic, non-irritating, and non-cytotoxic. In particular, the polymer used according to the invention can be provided based exclusively on natural ingredients; in particular, starting materials and ingredients that may contain heavy metals or so-called MOSH and MOAH substances can be avoided (e.g., by avoiding branched and functionalized fatty acids in the production of the polymer).

[0068]

[0069] Furthermore, it is also possible to use only substances for providing the polymer used or employed according to the invention which are biodegradable, in particular so that the polymer as a whole is also biodegradable and suitable for consumption.

[0070] When using the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer employed or used according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetics or pharmaceuticals, particularly dermatology, biodegradable, yet strong and long-lasting films can be provided.

[0071] Furthermore, when using the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, films can be provided on the skin which have a strong affinity for the skin and are flexible and stable, in particular long-term stable.

[0072] Furthermore, when using the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, a film can be provided which is glossy, non-oily and non-sticky, but still lubricating.

[0073] Furthermore, if desired for the intended application, such a film, particularly when using the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, can exhibit a short penetration time.

[0074] Completely unexpectedly, the applicant also discovered that, when using the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, a film former can be provided which can be used equally well in W / O formulations, O / W formulations, and so-called stick formulations (for example, in the form of lip care products) and exhibits sufficient, and in particular good, stability, especially long-term stability, in all these dosage forms. Above all, the provision in these various dosage forms with particularly high stability, especially long-term stability, is possible, and at the same time, a multitude of other advantages, such as biological properties, can be achieved.

[0075]

[0076] Biodegradability, compatibility, skin affinity, lubricity, non-oiliness, non-stickiness, water resistance, etc., are provided.

[0077] Furthermore, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, exhibits a particularly high yield when used as a functional additive, especially as a film former. This results in high overall material efficiency and a particularly low environmental impact, making the polymer used according to the invention a very sustainable additive. Therefore, the use of the polymer according to the invention, particularly due to its high yield, is especially economical, ecological, and sustainable, while simultaneously offering exceptionally high technical performance.

[0078] The fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention is also amphiphilic and thus exhibits both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties, which—without being limited to this—is primarily due to the combination of shorter-chain and longer-chain alkyl groups. Due to its amphiphilicity, the polymer, particularly when used according to the invention as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, can provide particularly versatile properties. For example, the polymer used according to the invention is readily dispersible and stable in aqueous solutions and can nevertheless form a stable, water-repellent film. Above all, such a film can regulate moisture particularly well; in particular, it can bind water, which can then be released back onto the skin.Nevertheless, such a film is water-repellent and does not dissolve or become brittle upon contact with water. In other words, such a film is particularly water- and moisture-resistant and stable. Furthermore, such an amphiphilic film former can ensure the formation of a particularly uniform film, leading to increased coverage of the application area and enhanced functionality. Thus, the amphiphilic nature of the polymer used according to the invention, especially when used as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, allows for the provision of a particularly adaptable, effective, and long-lasting film in cosmetic and pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, compositions for topical application.

[0079]

[0080] Furthermore, when using the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, a film can be provided which can bind high amounts of water but is nevertheless water-repellent. In particular, such a film is moisture-stable.

[0081] Furthermore, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, is particularly suitable for use in cosmetic or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, compositions (products), particularly since both the polymer and a corresponding mixture are compatible with other common additives or ingredients of such cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions, especially with corresponding oils, waxes, pigments and preservatives.

[0082] Furthermore, when used according to the invention, a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application, films with particularly strong film-forming properties can be provided entirely on the basis of natural origin, which are compatible with the usual other ingredients of such compositions (products). Moreover, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, can be used in cosmetic or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application.in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, versatile in application, especially in various products, preferably as a film former, for example in hair care products, color care products, sun care products and skin care products.

[0083] Furthermore, the polymer used according to the invention and the aforementioned mixture have a low color and odor profile, so that they can be flexibly incorporated into a variety of different compositions (products).

[0084] Furthermore, the raw materials for providing the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention can be selected entirely on the basis of natural raw materials, ensuring a safe and stable supply of raw materials.

[0085]

[0086] The fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, is in particular in the form of an easy-to-handle paste or solid and can be used efficiently even in low doses.

[0087] In addition, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, can be provided sustainably and naturally and exhibits an optimal balance between performance and sensory properties.

[0088] The present invention thus relates – as described above – to the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology.

[0089] wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I)

[0090]

[0091] where in the general formula (I)

[0092] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1- C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0093]

[0094] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0095] • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and

[0096] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0097] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0098] For all previously and subsequently defined variables and parameters (e.g. variables n, m, p, acid number, hydroxyl number, saponification number, molecular weight values, etc.), the limits in the ranges are generally included (unless explicitly defined otherwise).

[0099] The term "functional additive" as used in the present invention is to be understood broadly. In particular, the term "functional additive" refers to an ingredient, especially a processing aid, which is added to a cosmetic or pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, composition (product) or formulation to specifically adapt and / or adjust its properties, in particular to improve them, without itself exerting the main effect. Above all, functional additives are ingredients, especially excipients, that can provide specific properties. Oxidation stabilizers (antioxidants), humectants, emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, UV filters, preservatives, and the like are known classes of functional additives.

[0100] The term film former (also synonymous with "film-forming substance", "film-forming compound", or the like) within the meaning of the present invention is to be understood broadly. Film formers within the meaning of the present invention and in the fields of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, particularly dermatology, are in particular functional additives which are added to a composition (product) or formulation and ensure that a continuous and / or uniform and / or coherent, in particular closed and / or protective, layer is formed on a surface, i.e., in other words, a continuous film of the composition or formulation in question. In particular, the term film former refers to such a functional additive which is present in a coating material (here: composition or formulation).

[0101]

[0102] (Formulation or product for topical cosmetic or pharmaceutical use) ensures the formation of a preferably continuous and / or coherent film. Additionally, film-forming agents in this context may also have further functions or provide further properties, as described above and below and known to those skilled in the art.

[0103] According to the present invention, a specific polyglycerin-based polymer is thus used as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application.

[0104] Film-forming agents based on polyglycerols generally work through their special molecular structure, which gives them film-forming and, moreover, skin-friendly properties: Polyglycerols are hydrophilic polymers which, due to their branched structure and multiple hydroxyl groups, are able to engage in intermolecular interactions. After application to the skin or mucous membranes, a flexible, cohesive film can therefore form, particularly through drying and / or coalescence.

[0105] Due to the special composition and structure of the total polymer or mixture used according to the invention, the properties listed above and below, especially in combination, can be provided, so that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention, optionally as a mixture or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, is particularly well suited as a film former for use in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, especially dermatology.

[0106] Within the scope of the present invention, it has proven particularly advantageous to include in the general formula (I)

[0107] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-Ci8 alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0108] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0109] • the variable m represents an integer from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, particularly preferably 6; and

[0110] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5;

[0111]

[0112] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0113] It has also proven particularly useful if the general formula (I)

[0114] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-Ci8 alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0115] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2;

[0116] • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and

[0117] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5;

[0118] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1= represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0119] Furthermore, it may be provided within the scope of the present invention if in the general formula (I)

[0120] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-Ci8 alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0121] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2;

[0122] • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and

[0123] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5;

[0124] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-Cg-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-Cg-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0125]

[0126] It may also be provided within the scope of the present invention if in the general formula (I)

[0127] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Cβ-Cis alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-Cis alkyl group;

[0128] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2;

[0129] • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and

[0130] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5;

[0131] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci 7- alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one C-alkyl group as R 1 exhibits.

[0132] A polymer according to the present invention, comprising both at least one Ce alkyl group and at least one C alkyl group as R group. 1 exhibiting [unclear], it has proven to be a particularly effective film former in compositions for topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, especially dermatology.

[0133] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer having repeating units of the general formula (I) is therefore particularly preferred.

[0134]

[0135] where in the general formula (I)

[0136] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1represents a linear saturated Ce alkyl group or a linear saturated C alkyl group;

[0137] • represents the variable n 2;

[0138] • the variable m represents 6; and

[0139] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0140]

[0141] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci 7- alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one C-alkyl group as R 1 exhibits;

[0142] in particular wherein the previously defined polymer in mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of general formula (II)

[0143] RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) can be used, where in the general formula (II)

[0144] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear saturated Ce alkyl group or a linear saturated C alkyl group;

[0145] • the variable n represents 2,

[0146] however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ce-alkyl and / or R1 = represents C-alkyl;

[0147] preferably wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is present with a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 : 20.

[0148] Furthermore, it may be provided within the scope of the present invention that in the general formula (I)

[0149] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-Ci8 alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0150] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2;

[0151] • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and

[0152] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5; VON RO HR 20 PAT EN TA N WÄ LT E PART NERSCHAFT

[0153] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents C?-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Cg-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) -with R 1 = C-alkyl, and / or, however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one C?-alkyl group as R. 1 and at least one C9 alkyl group as R group 1 and at least one C-alkyl group as R 1 exhibits.

[0154] A polymer according to the present invention, comprising the residue R 1The polymer, which has at least one C1-alkyl group, at least one Cg-alkyl group, and at least one C1-alkyl group, has also proven to be a particularly effective film former for compositions for topical applications in the cosmetics and / or pharmaceutical fields, especially dermatology (see also the following examples of implementation and application using such a polymer or the corresponding mixture described below).

[0155] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer having repeating units of the general formula (I) is therefore particularly preferred.

[0156]

[0157] where in the general formula (I)

[0158] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1represents a linear saturated alkyl group selected from Cα-alkyl, Cg-alkyl and Cβ-alkyl;

[0159] • represents the variable n 2;

[0160] • the variable m represents 6; and

[0161] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0162]

[0163] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents C?-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Cg-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) -with R 1 = C-alkyl, and / or, however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one C?-alkyl group as R. 1 and at least one C9 alkyl group as R group 1 and at least one Cv alkyl group as R group 1exhibits; in particular wherein the previously defined polymer is in mixture and / or combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of general formula (II)

[0164] RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) can be used, where in the general formula (II)

[0165] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear saturated alkyl group selected from Cα-alkyl, Cg-alkyl and Cβ-alkyl;

[0166] • the variable n represents 2,

[0167] however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1= C?-Alkyl and / or R 1 = Cg-alkyl and / or R 1 = represents C-alkyl;

[0168] preferably wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is present with a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 : 20.

[0169] Within the scope of the present invention, it may be preferred if the remainder R in the general formula (I) 1 does not represent a branched alkyl group, in particular not a branched Ce-C-is alkyl group.

[0170] Typically, the biodegradability of the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is significantly improved when the repeating unit of the general formula (I) contains unbranched alkyl groups. This allows for the development of more sustainable products overall, and such polymers are usually readily suitable for use in lip care products, as they are typically also suitable for consumption. However, when containing branched alkyl groups, such as isostearic acid groups, biodegradability is limited, and the resulting polymer is not, or at least not readily, approved for consumption. Therefore, its use in lip care products, for example, is either not possible or not without limitations.

[0171]

[0172] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may also be preferred if the remainder R in the general formula (I) 1 an unsubstituted alkyl group, in particular an unsubstituted Ce-C-is alkyl group, and / or wherein in the general formula (I) the group R 1 does not contain a hydroxyl group.

[0173] In particular, substituted alkyl groups, for example those based on hydroxystearic acid, can introduce impurities such as heavy metals, which can lead to, among other things, reduced tolerability. The underlying raw materials, especially the fatty acids, can carry over inseparable impurities from the manufacturing or extraction processes (e.g., nickel can be carried over by hydroxystearic acid, or so-called MOSH and MOAH substances), which can render the final product unsuitable or not fully suitable for use in cosmetics or pharmaceuticals. For example, hydroxystearic acid falls into hazard class 7 (GHS07), whereas stearic acid does not fall into any hazard class.

[0174] It may also be preferred within the scope of the present invention if the remainder R in the general formula (I) 1represents a linear, saturated and unsubstituted alkyl group, in particular a linear, saturated and unsubstituted Ce-C-is alkyl group.

[0175] Linear, saturated and unsubstituted alkyl groups typically do not carry hazardous substances or impurities not approved for use in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, such as heavy metals or so-called MOSH and MOAH substances, and also usually exhibit good biodegradability.

[0176] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the present invention relates to the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or the use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, in particular the use as described above.

[0177]

[0178] wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer comprises the following units (polymer building blocks):

[0179] (i) Units (i) which are derived from polyglycerols, in particular from di- to undecaneglycerols, preferably from di- to pentaglycerols, especially preferably from di- to tetraglycerols, most preferably from triglycerols;

[0180] (ii) Units (ii) which are derived from polycarboxylic acids, in particular dicarboxylic acids, preferably from Cs-C-io-dicarboxylic acids, especially preferably from linear, saturated or unsaturated Cs-C-io-dicarboxylic acids, most preferably from linear saturated Cs-C-io-dicarboxylic acids;

[0181] wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular the units (i) derived from polyglycerols, is grafted with Cα-Cα9 carboxylic acids, in particular Cα-Cα9 fatty acids, preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cη-Cα9 carboxylic acids, particularly preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated Cη-Cα9 carboxylic acids, most preferably linear saturated Cη-Cα9 carboxylic acids,

[0182] however, provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular the units (i) which are derived from polyglycerols, is grafted with at least one C7-Cn carboxylic acid and with at least one Ci7-Ci9 carboxylic acid.

[0183] In this context, it may be particularly preferred if the carboxylic acid is not a branched carboxylic acid, in particular not a branched C7-C19 carboxylic acid, and / or if the carboxylic acid is a linear carboxylic acid, in particular a linear C7-C19 carboxylic acid.

[0184] As previously explained, branched carboxylic acids, which are used to produce the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer, can exhibit lower biodegradability. These carboxylic acids, as well as corresponding products containing them, are not usually approved for consumption, or at least not without further ado. However, approval for consumption is particularly necessary in the area of ​​lip care products. Therefore, polymers containing carboxylic acids that are not approved for consumption, or not without restrictions, cannot be used as functional additives, especially film formers, in lip care products, or at least not without further ado.

[0185]

[0186] Furthermore, it may also be preferred if the carboxylic acid is an unsubstituted carboxylic acid, in particular an unsubstituted C1-Ci9-carboxylic acid, and / or if the carboxylic acid, in particular the Cz-Cig-carboxylic acid, does not have a hydroxyl group.

[0187] As previously mentioned, impurities such as metals or heavy metals, as well as so-called MOSH and MOAH substances (MOSH: mineral oil saturate hydrocarbons; MOAH: mineral oil aromatic hydrocarbons), which may impair compatibility, can be introduced, particularly through substituted carboxylic acids used to produce the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer.

[0188] It may therefore also be preferred if the carboxylic acid is a linear, saturated and unsubstituted carboxylic acid, in particular a linear, saturated and unsubstituted C7-C19 carboxylic acid.

[0189] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer may be present in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester.

[0190] In this way, particularly desirable properties can be achieved in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions (products) in question. Such a mixture or combination has improved application properties and can be further enhanced by incorporating it into the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions (products). Furthermore, such a mixture is particularly adaptable to the specific requirements profile, especially regarding the proportions. Thus, the properties of the final product can be precisely tailored to the specific application or modified accordingly.

[0191] The rheological properties can also be further improved in the mixture or combination - as can the desired hydrophilicity properties.

[0192]

[0193] In this context, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer can be produced directly or simultaneously with the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer. However, it is also possible for both components of the mixture to be produced or provided separately.

[0194] In particular, within the framework of the mixture or combination provided according to the invention, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol can correspond to the general formula (II) RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) where in the general formula (II)

[0195] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0196] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2,

[0197] however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-Ci8-alkyl.

[0198] The previously defined fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of general formula (II) thus corresponds – in a synonymous manner or with an alternative representation – in particular to the following formula (where the variable n and the remainder R each have the meaning given above and the aforementioned requirement applies equally):

[0199]

[0200]

[0201] In this context, within the framework of the mixture or combination provided according to the invention, it may be preferred if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol is a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, if the polyglycerol is selected from the group of di- to undecaneglycerols, preferably di- to pentaglycerols, particularly preferably di- to tetraglycerols, and most preferably triglycerols.

[0202] when the carboxylic acid, especially the fatty acid, is selected from the group of C7-C19 carboxylic acids, especially C1-C19 fatty acids.

[0203] According to the present invention, within the framework of the mixture or combination provided according to the invention, it can be provided in particular that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is present with a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 99.99 : 0.01 to 70 : 30, in particular in the range of 99 : 1 to 75 : 25, preferably in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 : 20.

[0204] It may also be preferred within the scope of the present invention if the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of at least 70 : 30, in particular of at least 75 : 25, preferably of at least 80 : 20.

[0205] The use of a mixture with the aforementioned ratios can provide particularly positive and diverse product properties, especially film-forming properties. Reference can be made to the preceding explanations and the following exemplary embodiments.

[0206] As a result, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention, as described above, can be used either as such or in a mixture (combination) with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol as described above as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application.

[0207]

[0208] With regard to the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer used according to the invention as described above, or the mixture (combination) used according to the invention as described above, the following should be stated:

[0209] In particular, it has proven advantageous within the scope of the present invention if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a hydroxyl number (OHV), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 17 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, particularly in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g.

[0210] Furthermore, it has proven particularly advantageous within the scope of the present invention if the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a hydroxyl number (OHV), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 17 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, particularly in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g.

[0211] The hydroxyl number is a measure of the hydroxyl group (OH group) content in organic materials. It is expressed in milligrams of potassium hydroxide equivalent to the amount of acetic acid bound during the acetylation of one gram of substance.

[0212] A polymer or mixture with the aforementioned hydroxyl number also exhibits free hydroxyl groups, making it a partial ester. An advantage of such partial esters, particularly for use as a functional additive, especially a film former, according to the present invention, is that hydrogen bonds can be formed via the free OH groups, resulting in a particularly stable film. Furthermore, due to the hydrogen bonds and polar interactions, an optimal viscosity for processing and use according to the present invention is typically present.

[0213] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 3 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, particularly in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g.

[0214]

[0215] It may also be provided within the scope of the present invention that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 3 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g.

[0216] The saponification value is, in particular, a measure of the bound and free fatty acids present in one gram of substance. It indicates how many milligrams of potassium hydroxide (KOH) are required to neutralize the free fatty acids contained in one gram of the respective substance and to cleave the existing ester bonds (saponification). A polymer or mixture with the aforementioned saponification value exhibits particularly advantageous properties for the use according to the invention, especially with regard to its hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties.

[0217] Furthermore, according to the present invention, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer may have a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C.

[0218] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it can also be provided that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C.

[0219] In the context of the present invention, Ph. Eur. refers in particular to the Pharmacopoea Europaea (English: European Pharmacopeia) and thus to the so-called European Pharmacopoeia.

[0220] The dropping point refers in particular to the temperature at which a substance begins to flow under standardized test conditions, whereby the substance is heated in a controlled manner until it changes from the solid to the liquid state, whereby the temperature at which the first drop detaches from the sample is recorded during the measurement.

[0221] A polymer or mixture with the aforementioned dropping point exhibits particularly high stability, especially storage stability, in the application area intended according to the invention. Furthermore, the structural properties of a polymer or mixture according to the present invention with such a dropping point are particularly suitable for the use according to the invention, especially with regard to dimensional stability.

[0222]

[0223] According to the present invention, it can also be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 2 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of at most 2 mg KOH / g.

[0224] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it can be provided that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 2 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of at most 2 mg KOH / g.

[0225] The acid value is specifically a measure of free fatty acids in organic materials. It indicates the amount of potassium hydroxide, in milligrams, required to neutralize the free fatty acids contained in one gram of material.

[0226] Due to the particularly low acid value, the polymer or mixture is especially well tolerated and stable.

[0227] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer can have at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv):

[0228] (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g;

[0229] (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g;

[0230] (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C;

[0231] (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

[0232]

[0233] According to a further particular embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer can have at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv):

[0234] (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g;

[0235] (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g;

[0236] (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C;

[0237] (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

[0238] Within the scope of the present invention, it may be preferred that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has at least the properties (i) and (ii), in particular at least the properties (i), (ii) and (iii), preferably all properties (i) to (iv).

[0239] According to a further particular embodiment of the present invention, the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand can have at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv):

[0240] (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g;

[0241] (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g;

[0242] (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C;

[0243] (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

[0244]

[0245] According to a further particular embodiment of the present invention, the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand can have at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv):

[0246] (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g;

[0247] (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g;

[0248] (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C;

[0249] (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

[0250] Furthermore, it may be preferred if the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has at least the properties (i) and (ii), in particular at least the properties (i), (ii) and (iii), preferably all properties (i) to (iv).

[0251] Furthermore, according to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer can have a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at most 500 mPas.

[0252] According to another particular embodiment of the present invention, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer can also have a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), in the range of 10 mPas to 500 mPas.

[0253]

[0254] According to a further particular embodiment of the present invention, the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand can have a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at most 500 mPas.

[0255] According to a further particular embodiment of the present invention, the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand can have a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), in the range of 10 mPas to 500 mPas.

[0256] At the viscosity specified above, the polymer or mixture can be incorporated particularly well into corresponding compositions (products) or formulations and is generally very easy to process.

[0257] Within the scope of the present invention, it may be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol.

[0258] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may also be provided that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol.

[0259] The number-average molecular mass (Mn) is, in particular, a measure of the average molecular mass of a polymer, where all molecules are weighted equally, regardless of their size. At this number-average molecular mass, the polymer or mixture is particularly well-suited as a film former, and especially good film formation is achieved with a corresponding composition.

[0260]

[0261] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may also be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1 :2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol.

[0262] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may also be provided that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol.

[0263] The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) is, in particular, a measure of the average molecular mass of a polymer, where larger molecules are weighted more heavily than smaller ones. At this weight-average molecular mass, the polymer or mixture is particularly well-suited as a film former and enables especially good film formation of a corresponding composition.

[0264] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, it may be preferred if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv): (i) a hydroxyl number (OHV), in particular determined according to the method of DGF CV 17 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g;

[0265] (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g;

[0266] (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C;

[0267] (iv) an acid value (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g; and

[0268]

[0269] if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol; and / or

[0270] if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1 :2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol.

[0271] According to a further particular embodiment of the present invention, it may be preferred if the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv):

[0272] (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g;

[0273] (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g;

[0274] (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C;

[0275] (iv) an acid value (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g; and

[0276] if the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol; and / or

[0277]

[0278] when the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol.

[0279] In particular, the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand may be biodegradable.

[0280] Due to its biodegradability, the polymer or mixture used according to the invention is more environmentally friendly and sustainable. Furthermore, biodegradable polymers or mixtures typically exhibit better skin and mucous membrane compatibility and minimize the risk of allergies or irritations.

[0281] According to the present invention, it has proven particularly advantageous to incorporate and / or add the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer in an amount in the range of 0.0001 to 50 wt.%, particularly in an amount in the range of 0.001 to 25 wt.%, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15 wt.%, and most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 10 wt.%, into a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) intended for topical application, based on the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product).

[0282] Furthermore, it has proven particularly advantageous within the scope of the present invention if the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is incorporated and / or added in an amount in the range of 0.0001 to 50 wt.%, in particular in an amount in the range of 0.001 to 25 wt.%, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15 wt.%, most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 10 wt.%, into a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) intended for topical application, in relation to the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product).

[0283]

[0284] When the polymer or mixture is used in the aforementioned quantities, particularly good film-forming properties as well as other properties are provided, especially without forming a sticky or heavy film and without clogging pores.

[0285] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is incorporated and / or added in combination with at least one further additive into a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) intended for topical application.

[0286] In particular, at least one further additive may be selected from the group of processing aids, stabilizers, emulsifiers, oxidation stabilizers (antioxidants), vitamins, minerals, enzymes and coenzymes, humectants, pH adjusters, pH buffers, thickeners, liquefiers, rheology modifiers, film formers, flavorings, antiseptics, UV stabilizers, UV protectants, surfactants, alcohols, silicones, fillers, pigments, waxes, oils, fats, colorings, dyes, buffers, fragrances, perfumes, extenders, binders, wetting agents and / or preservatives, as well as their combinations and mixtures.

[0287] By using additional additives, the properties of the overall composition or product can be further tailored or adjusted. In particular, both the polymer and the mixture are compatible with common and well-known additives.

[0288] Within the scope of the present invention, it is particularly possible that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand, in combination with at least one oxidation stabilizer (antioxidant), such as tocopherol, is incorporated and / or added to a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) intended for topical application. The amount of oxidation stabilizer (antioxidant) can vary widely and is typically in the range of 0.01 to 0.1 wt%, based on the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer or based on the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other.This results in improved stability, especially bearing stability.

[0289]

[0290] Within the scope of the present invention, it may in particular be provided that the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) intended for topical application are selected from the group of cosmetic products for skin, hair and body care and cosmetics and dermatological products for topical application to skin, hair and mucous membranes.

[0291] In particular, the cosmetic products for skin, hair and body care and cosmetics may be selected from the group of cleansing gels, cleansing milks, micellar waters, scrubs, day creams, night creams, anti-aging creams, serums, masks, especially toner masks, moisturizing masks, exfoliating masks, creams, especially moisturizing creams, anti-wrinkle creams, cream showers, nourishing shower gels, body lotions, especially moisturizing lotions, firming body creams, hand creams, bath additives, especially bath salts, bubble baths, bath oils, sunscreens, especially sunscreens, sun sprays, after-sun products, foundation products, concealers, cover sticks, powders, especially pressed powders, loose powders, setting powders, rouge, blush, cream blush, bronzers, contouring powders, bronzing powders, eyeshadows, eyeliners, kohl, mascara, Eyebrow pencils, eyebrow gels, lipsticks, lip gloss, lip liners, shampoo, conditioner, hair masks,Hairsprays, hair foams, hair mousse, hair gels, hair oils, deodorant sprays, deodorant sticks, roll-on deodorants, shaving gels, shaving creams, shaving foams, aftershaves, shaving balms, body scrubs, foot creams, foot scrubs, foot balms, nail care oils, care creams for hands and nails, acne gels, acne ointments, wrinkle creams, anti-aging serums, lifting products, brightening serums, creams for age spots, hypoallergenic products, hair wax, hair gels, wound protection creams, and their combinations and mixtures.

[0292] Pharmaceutical products, especially dermatological ones, for topical application to skin, hair and mucous membranes may also be selected from the group of pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, compositions for the prophylactic and / or therapeutic topical treatment of diseases of the skin, mucous membrane or hair.

[0293] Within the scope of the present invention, it may also be provided that the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions, are in solid, liquid or flowable form, in particular in the form of creams, gels, pastes, ointments, tinctures, sprays, lotions, dispersions, suspensions, emulsions, powders, serums, oils, foams, mousses, sticks, roll-on compositions, balms and combinations and mixtures thereof.

[0294]

[0295] The aforementioned products for topical application are not limited and are to be understood as examples only, whereby a person skilled in the art can readily select products in which the described polymer or mixture can be used according to the invention, in particular as a functional additive, preferably as a film former.

[0296] Within the scope of the present invention, it may be provided that the use according to the invention is for improving the film-forming properties of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions (products).

[0297] Furthermore, the present invention may also provide for the use of the invention to improve the stability of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions (products).

[0298] Furthermore, the present invention may also provide for the use of the invention to improve the moisturizing properties and / or the oiling effect of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) intended for topical application.

[0299] The term "oiling" or "oiling effect" as used in the present invention is to be understood broadly. In particular, in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical fields, oiling refers to the secretion or deposition of oils or oily components in a formulation, whereby this secretion or deposition can occur, for example, in creams, lotions, emulsions, or pharmaceutical ointments. Oiling typically results in a greasy, oily feeling on the skin or mucous membranes, which is often perceived as undesirable or unpleasant.

[0300] It may also be provided within the scope of the present invention that the use according to the invention is for improving the application behavior and / or the wetting behavior of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) intended for topical application.

[0301] For example, the use according to the invention can improve yield, which is both ecologically and economically advantageous.

[0302]

[0303] Furthermore, the present invention may also provide for the use of the invention to improve the penetration behavior of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions (products).

[0304] A further object – according to a second aspect of the present invention – is a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application,

[0305] wherein the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition contains at least one functional additive, in particular at least one film former, together with a cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically, in particular dermatologically, compatible excipient (carrier),

[0306] wherein the functional additive, in particular the film former, comprises and / or is a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer,

[0307] wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I)

[0308]

[0309] where in the general formula (I)

[0310] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0311] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0312] • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and

[0313] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0314]

[0315] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0316] According to this aspect of the present invention, it may be preferred if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is present in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, particularly dermatological, composition in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined above.

[0317] Furthermore, according to this aspect of the invention, it may be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) is / are as defined above.

[0318] If, according to this aspect of the invention, the composition is a cosmetic composition, the cosmetic composition typically also contains at least one cosmetic ingredient, preferably a plurality of cosmetic ingredients.

[0319] If, according to this aspect of the invention, the composition is a pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition, the pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition usually also contains at least one pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, ingredient, preferably at least one pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, active ingredient.

[0320] For further details regarding the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to the second aspect of the invention, reference can be made to the above statements regarding the use according to the first aspect of the invention, which also apply accordingly to the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to the second aspect of the invention.

[0321]

[0322] Furthermore, according to a third aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a functional additive, in particular a film former, for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application.

[0323] wherein the functional additive, in particular the film former, comprises and / or is a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer,

[0324] wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I)

[0325]

[0326] where in the general formula (I)

[0327] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0328] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0329] • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and

[0330] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0331] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits

[0332]

[0333] According to this aspect of the invention, it may be preferred if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is present in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, particularly dermatological, composition in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined above.

[0334] Furthermore, according to this aspect of the invention, it may be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) is / are as defined above.

[0335] For further details regarding the functional additive according to the third aspect of the invention, reference can be made to the above statements concerning the use according to the first aspect of the invention and the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to the second aspect of the invention, which also apply accordingly to the functional additive according to the third aspect of the invention.

[0336] Furthermore, according to a fourth aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a mixture (combination) (a) of a polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and (b) of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology.

[0337] where in the mixture (combination)

[0338] (a) the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I)

[0339]

[0340]

[0341] where in the general formula (I)

[0342] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0343] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0344] • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and

[0345] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0346] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits; and

[0347] (b) wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol corresponds to the general formula (II) RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) where in the general formula (II)

[0348] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0349] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2,

[0350] however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents C6-Ci8-alkyl.

[0351]

[0352] According to this aspect of the invention, it can be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol is a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester,

[0353] wherein the polyglycerol is selected from the group of di- to undecaneglycerols, preferably di- to pentaglycerols, particularly preferably di- to tetraglycerols, most particularly preferably triglycerols, and

[0354] wherein the carboxylic acid, in particular the fatty acid, is selected from the group of C7-C19 carboxylic acids, in particular C1-C19 fatty acids.

[0355] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may be provided that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 99.99 : 0.01 to 70 : 30, in particular in the range of 99 : 1 to 75 : 25, preferably in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 : 20.

[0356] Furthermore, within the scope of the present invention, it may also be provided that the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of at least 70 : 30, in particular of at least 75 : 25, preferably of at least 80 : 20.

[0357] For further details regarding the mixture according to the fourth aspect of the invention, reference can be made to the above statements concerning the use according to the first aspect of the invention and the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to the second aspect of the invention, as well as the functional additive according to the third aspect of the invention, which also apply accordingly to the mixture according to the fourth aspect of the invention.

[0358] Furthermore, according to a fifth aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology.

[0359]

[0360] wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I)

[0361]

[0362] where in the general formula (I)

[0363] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1- C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0364] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0365] • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and

[0366] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5,

[0367] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1= Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0368] According to this aspect of the invention, it may be preferred if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is present in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, particularly dermatological, composition in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined above.

[0369]

[0370] For further details regarding the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the fifth aspect of the invention, reference can be made to the above statements regarding the use according to the first aspect of the invention, the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to the second aspect of the invention, the functional additive according to the third aspect of the invention, and the mixture according to the fourth aspect of the invention, which also apply accordingly to the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the fifth aspect of the invention.

[0371] Finally, according to a sixth aspect of the present invention, the present invention relates to a method for improving the film-forming properties of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application,

[0372] wherein at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer is added to the composition as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeating units of the general formula (I)

[0373]

[0374] where in the general formula (I)

[0375] • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group;

[0376] • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2;

[0377] • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and

[0378] • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, OF RO HR PAT EN TA N WÄ LT E PART NERSCHAFT

[0379] however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl residue as residue R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

[0380] According to this aspect of the invention, it may be particularly preferred if the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer is used in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined above, in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition.

[0381] Furthermore, according to this aspect of the invention, it may be provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) is / are as defined above.

[0382] For further details of the method according to the sixth aspect of the invention, reference can be made to the above statements regarding the use according to the first aspect of the invention, the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to the second aspect of the invention, the functional additive according to the third aspect of the invention, the mixture according to the fourth aspect of the invention, and the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the fifth aspect of the invention, which also apply accordingly to the use according to the sixth aspect of the invention.

[0383] Further embodiments, modifications and variations as well as advantages of the present invention are readily apparent and achievable for the person skilled in the art when reading the description, without leaving the scope of the present invention.

[0384] The following exemplary embodiments serve only to illustrate the present invention, without limiting the present invention to such embodiments.

[0385]

[0386] EXAMPLES OF EXECUTION:

[0387] I. Production of fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymers a) Production of the mixtures M1 and M2 and the polymers P1 and P2 according to the invention

[0388] To produce fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymers with the repeating unit of general formula (I) (see claim 1) according to the present invention, the following manufacturing process is used in each case, wherein the starting materials and corresponding amounts are given in Table 1 below:

[0389] Table 1: Ingredients and quantities

[0390]

[0391] In a reaction vessel equipped with a partial and full condenser, polyglycerol and the fatty acids are mixed and heated to 90 °C. Once 90 °C is reached, the dicarboxylic acid (here: azelaic acid) is added while stirring. The reactor is evacuated to < 100 mbar and purged with nitrogen before the catalyst is added (optionally, or uncatalyzed). The reaction temperature is then maintained at > 200 °C for 3 to 4 hours, while the pressure is adjusted to < 100 mbar.

[0392] Once the desired temperature and vacuum are reached, process-related checks are carried out to evaluate the turnover.

[0393] Once the target values ​​are reached, the reaction mixture is distilled with steam to remove low boiling fractions before being filtered.

[0394] A mixture (combination) according to the invention is obtained in each case, consisting of the polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to the invention on the one hand and the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol (i.e., the esterification product of the fatty acids and the polyglycerol, but without the dicarboxylic acid) on the other. The mixture is in each case a white to yellow paste or solid. Optionally, an oxidation stabilizer (antioxidant), such as tocopherol, can also be added to the mixture, e.g., in amounts in the range of 0.01 to 0.1 wt%, based on the mixture.

[0395]

[0396] The resulting mixtures M1 and M2 are characterized before further purification:

[0397] The inventive mixture M1 has a number-averaged molecular weight (Mn), determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using polystyrene as a standard according to DIN 55672-1:2016, of 2,600 g / mol and a weight-averaged molecular weight (Mw), determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using polystyrene as a standard according to DIN 55672-1:2016, of 5,500 g / mol.

[0398] The mixture M1 according to the invention consists of 85.2% of the polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer and 14.8% of the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol. The mixture M2 according to the invention has a number-averaged molecular weight (Mn), determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using polystyrene as a standard according to DIN 55672-1:2016, of 2,500 g / mol and a weight-averaged molecular weight (Mw), determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using polystyrene as a standard according to DIN 55672-1:2016, of 5,200 g / mol.

[0399] The mixture M2 according to the invention consists of 82.3% of the polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer and 17.7% of the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol. Furthermore, the following additional properties are also determined: acid value (AV), determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), hydroxyl value (OHV), determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), dropping point, determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), and saponification value (SAP), determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science).

[0400]

[0401] Furthermore, the viscosity of mixtures M1 and M2, determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), is also determined at temperatures ranging from 40 °C to 100 °C. The measured viscosities in mPas are given in the following table:

[0402]

[0403]

[0404] As can be seen from the preceding table, mixtures M1 and M2 exhibit a viscosity of no more than 500 mPas across the entire temperature range from 40 °C to 100 °C, which allows for particularly good processability and application. Subsequently, the pure polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer is isolated using standard purification and separation methods, in particular chromatography (i.e., the polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer is separated from the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol).

[0405] The polymer P1 obtained according to the invention has repeating units according to the general formula (I) with n = 2 and m = 6 as well as R = C17 - C(O) - and C7 / C9 - C(O) -. In this context, an unbranched and saturated mixture of Cs and Cio fatty acids is used, which is of natural origin and consists of 60 wt.% Cs fatty acid (i.e. caprylic acid) and 40 wt.% Cio fatty acid (i.e. capric acid). The cis fatty acid is the unbranched and saturated cis fatty acid (i.e. stearic acid). The polymer P1 has a number-averaged molecular weight (Mn) of 2,700 g / mol and a weight-averaged molecular weight (Mw), each determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using polystyrene as a standard according to DIN 55672-1:2016, of 5,600 g / mol.

[0406] The polymer P2 obtained according to the invention, on the other hand, has repeating units according to the general formula (I) with n = 2 and m = 6, as well as R = Ci7-C(O)- and Ce-C(O)-. The C7 fatty acid is the unbranched and saturated C7 fatty acid (i.e., n-heptanoic acid or enanthic acid). The cis fatty acid is the unbranched and saturated cis fatty acid (i.e., stearic acid). Polymer P2 has a number-averaged molecular weight (Mn) of 2,600 g / mol and a weight-averaged molecular weight (Mw), both determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC) using polystyrene as a standard according to DIN 55672-1:2016, of 5,300 g / mol.

[0407]

[0408] The polymers P1 and P2 according to the invention also each have a hydroxyl number (OHV) in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g and a saponification number (SAP) in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g and a dropping point of at least 35 °C and an acid number (AV) of approximately 1 mg KOH / g.

[0409] Furthermore, the polymers P1 and P2 according to the invention each have a viscosity of at most 500 mPas across the entire temperature range from 40 °C to 100 °C.

[0410] Optionally, an oxidation stabilizer (antioxidant), such as tocopherol, can also be added to the polymers P1 and P2 according to the invention, e.g. in amounts in the range of 0.01 to 0.1 wt.%, based on the polymer.

[0411] b) Production of further mixtures M3 to M12 and corresponding polymers P3 to P12 according to the invention

[0412] Furthermore, the following additional mixtures (combinations) according to the invention are also produced in a corresponding manner with the starting materials listed in Table 2 below, wherein the respective polymers according to the invention are also isolated from these mixtures in a similarly corresponding manner:

[0413] Table 2: Raw materials for the production of further mixtures and corresponding polymers

[0414]

[0415]

[0416] The cis fatty acid is the unbranched and saturated cis fatty acid (i.e., stearic acid). The Cs / C-io fatty acid is a mixture of the unbranched and saturated Cs and Cio fatty acids, with the mixture being of natural origin and consisting of 60 wt% Cs fatty acid (i.e., caprylic acid) and 40 wt% Cio fatty acid (i.e., capric acid). Furthermore, the C-ie / C-is fatty acid is a mixture of the unbranched and saturated C16 and C-is fatty acids (i.e., palmitic acid and stearic acid). Additionally, the C^ / C / Cie / Cis fatty acid is also a mixture of the unbranched and saturated C12, C14, C16, and C-is fatty acids (i.e., lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid).

[0417] c) Production of further mixtures M13 to M15 and corresponding polymers P13 to P15 according to the invention

[0418] Furthermore, the following additional mixtures and corresponding polymers are also produced in a corresponding manner with the input materials listed in Table 3 below (whereby the quantities of the input materials are varied accordingly for the various mixtures M13 to M15):

[0419] Table 3: Raw materials for the production of further mixtures and corresponding polymers

[0420]

[0421] The Cs, C10, C16 and C-is fatty acids are the unbranched and saturated fatty acids (i.e., caprylic acid, capric acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid).

[0422] The further properties of the mixtures M1, M2, M13, M14 and M15, i.e. acid number (AV), hydroxyl number (OHV), dropping point and saponification number (SAP), are also determined (whereby, for better comparability, the previously mentioned properties of the inventive mixtures M1 and M2 are also listed):

[0423]

[0424]

[0425] As can be seen from the preceding table, only the mixtures M1 and M2, which contain exclusively unbranched and unsubstituted fatty acids, exhibit the following characteristics in their preferred combination: acid number of at most 2 mg KOH / g, hydroxyl number in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g, dropping point of more than 35 °C and saponification number in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g.

[0426] The viscosity of mixtures M1, M2, M13, M14, and M15 is also determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0) at temperatures ranging from 40 °C to 100 °C. The measured viscosities in mPas are given in the following table (where, for better comparability, the previously mentioned viscosities of mixtures M1 and M2 according to the invention are also listed):

[0427]

[0428] As can be seen from the preceding table, only the mixtures M1 and M2, which contain exclusively unbranched and unsubstituted fatty acids, have a viscosity of at most 500 mPas across the entire temperature range from 40 °C to 100 °C.

[0429]

[0430] Overall, the mixtures M1 and M2 according to the invention (as well as the polymers P1 and P2 according to the invention) exhibit an optimal overall combination of features or properties, in particular viscosity, acid value, hydroxyl value, saponification value and dropping point, which makes these mixtures M1 and M2 (as well as the corresponding polymers P1 and P2) particularly suitable for use as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application or for use as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology.

[0431] II. Further properties and application trials

[0432] Furthermore, comparative tests regarding properties for suitability as film formers, as well as application tests with the previously described and produced mixture M1 and the previously described and produced polymer P1 according to the invention, each exhibiting the aforementioned properties and characteristics, are carried out as described below. Overall, these tests show that both the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 are particularly well suited as functional additives, especially as film formers, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, particularly dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application.

[0433] All attempts will be graded according to the following grading scale (unless a different grading scale is explicitly stated):

[0434]

[0435] 1. Water binding capacity

[0436] For a substance to be suitable as a film former, its water-binding capacity is a key property and performance factor that significantly influences its application. In particular, water-binding capacity affects moisture regulation, with film formers possessing high water-binding capacity helping to retain moisture, which is especially important in cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications (such as skincare, wound healing, etc.). Furthermore, a high water-binding capacity leads to...

[0437]

[0438] High water-binding capacity leads to greater flexibility and suppleness of the film. It also improves adhesion and stability. Finally, a film with high water-binding capacity offers enhanced protection or a barrier layer and ensures controlled moisture release, which increases the film's protective effect and influences its drying and curing behavior, particularly preventing water evaporation and thus drying out. Therefore, the water-binding capacity of film formers significantly influences the elasticity, adhesion, protective effect, and stability of the film.

[0439] To determine the water binding capacity, both the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 are mixed with water using a mortar and pestle, wherein both the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 exhibit a particularly high water absorption of more than 175%.

[0440] In this context, the mechanism of water uptake under shear stress - without wanting to limit ourselves to this theory - is largely based on the uptake of water into three-dimensional structures or areas within the polymer, especially via hydrogen bonds.

[0441] In this context, it should be noted that although the water is bound by the polymer, it can be released onto the skin when applied, for example in the form of a cream.

[0442] Waterproofness or water resistance

[0443] Furthermore, water resistance is also assessed by measuring the contact angle. The water resistance of film formers particularly contributes to influencing the protective function, durability, and performance of the film in various applications. For example, water resistance protects against moisture and water absorption, preventing washing off or abrasion by sweat or water (desirable, for example, in waterproof mascara or sunscreen), thus ensuring longer-lasting protection. Additionally, a water-resistant film can remain stable and adhere better to surfaces even in humid conditions. Water-resistant film formation is particularly advantageous for long-lasting hold even in high humidity (for example, in styling gels, hairspray, lipstick, or foundation).

[0444]

[0445] The water resistance is assessed by measuring the contact angle, which allows for the determination of both the wetting properties and the water resistance. The contact angle of a liquid droplet on glass is measured using a high-resolution camera. First, a liquid droplet is applied to a glass surface with a 2 mm needle. For comparison, a droplet of water is first applied to an uncoated glass surface and measured. To determine the water resistance of the polymer, the glass surface is then coated once with the inventive mixture M1 and once with the inventive polymer P1. The water droplet is then applied to the coated glass surface and measured.

[0446] The water droplet on the uncoated glass surface spreads out across the surface, resulting in a small contact angle in the range of 52.3° to 55.3°, which suggests better wetting by the water (i.e., less water resistance and less film formation).

[0447] The water droplet spreads little on both the glass surface coated with the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1, resulting in a high contact angle in the range of 91.4° to 92.2°, thus resulting in less wetting by the water (i.e. higher water resistance and higher film formation).

[0448] The evaluation of the water resistance by measuring the contact angle thus shows that the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 achieve a higher film formation and a higher water resistance.

[0449] Film-forming properties

[0450] To evaluate the film-forming properties, three fluorescent powder formulations (a first formulation for comparison without the inventive mixture or without the inventive polymer, a second formulation with the inventive polymer P1, and a third formulation with the inventive mixture M1) (see the following table) are homogeneously applied to a Petri dish with a layer thickness of 200 pm. After a drying time of 30 min, a first image is taken under illumination with a black light lamp.

[0451]

[0452] The Petri dishes are then placed in a bucket filled with water and stirred for 20 seconds at a speed of 230 rpm, with the stirrer positioned 2 cm away from the Petri dish. Afterwards, the Petri dishes are removed from the bucket and dried for two hours, after which a second image is taken under black light illumination.

[0453] The term "INCI" (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) listed below is used to identify or describe the cosmetic ingredient used.

[0454]

[0455] Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride

[0456] In the images taken under black light, a continuous film is visible before washing. After washing, no film is visible in the comparison formulation. When using the inventive mixture and the inventive polymer P1, a continuous film is present even after washing. The quality of the film after washing is evaluated according to the previously mentioned scale as follows:

[0457]

[0458] Consequently, by adding the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1, a continuous film remains even after washing, so that both the mixture M1 and the polymer P1 provide efficient waterproofing and lasting film formation.

[0459] . Evenness of the film on the skin

[0460] The uniformity of a film on the skin is assessed using in-vitro profilometry with the spreading method according to ISO 24443.

[0461] The uniformity of the film is a particularly relevant parameter for the performance and safety of sunscreens; the more even the skin appears after application, the better the film. In this context, it's important to note that skin is not naturally flat, but rather...

[0462]

[0463] Unevenness is clearly demonstrated in the form of valleys and peaks. Nevertheless, a uniform film should also be provided on the skin under real-world conditions. The uniformity of the film on the skin is particularly critical when evaluating a film-forming product, as it influences its effectiveness, aesthetics, and wearing comfort, and especially indicates whether the desired effect can be provided across the entire area (e.g., protective effect, barrier effect, etc.).

[0464] For this purpose, 1.2 mg / cm² is used. 2A formulation is applied to PMMA sunscreen plates, which are then stored for drying under controlled conditions at 29.5 ± 2.5 °C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 5%. The PMMA sunscreen plates are measured using a microscope before and after application. In this test, the delta between the highest peak value and the highest trough value is determined, such that a low value indicates particularly high uniformity of the film on the skin.

[0465] The formulations used are shown in the following table, wherein the comparison formulation contains neither the mixture M1 nor the polymer P1 and the formulation P1 according to the invention contains 5 wt% of the polymer P1 and the formulation M1 according to the invention contains 5 wt% of the mixture M1.

[0466]

[0467]

[0468] In the comparative formulation, a particularly high delta of approximately 30 pm is determined, resulting in an uneven and patchy distribution and not providing a homogeneous film, so that, in the case of using sun protection, homogeneous sun protection cannot be provided over the entire area.

[0469] In contrast to the comparative formulation, the formulation according to the invention, which contains 5 wt% of polymer P1, exhibits a significantly lower delta of only approximately 23 pm. When using 5 wt% of mixture M1, an even lower delta of only approximately 20 pm is determined. Both formulations according to the invention thus enable a particularly uniform distribution on the skin and therefore, for example in the case of a sunscreen, homogeneous sun protection over the entire area.

[0470] The film's uniformity is assessed as follows:

[0471]

[0472] 5. Make-up: Test for long-lasting effect

[0473] The evaluation of the long-lasting effect or durability of makeup is carried out with a focus on color stability and shine. For this purpose, two different water-in-oil (W / O) foundations are tested, each having the compositions specified in the following table. In this context, the first composition according to the invention, P1, additionally contains 5 wt% of polymer P1, and the second composition according to the invention, M1, additionally contains 5 wt% of mixture M1.

[0474]

[0475]

[0476]

[0477] 40 mg of the composition are applied to each 2 cm². 2Artificial skin is applied under controlled conditions (i.e., at a temperature of 20 ± 3 °C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 5%) and dried for two hours. Subsequently, a homogeneous sebum secretion, simulating a 24-hour in-vivo situation, is performed through artificial skin pores for 20 minutes.

[0478] The color stability and gloss are determined after application, after drying, and after tallow secretion.

[0479] The color stability of all compositions is stable after drying. However, the perceived color changes after sebum secretion, so that long-lasting color stability is not guaranteed in the comparative formulation.

[0480] With the composition according to the invention containing 5 wt% of the polymer P1, no significant color change is discernible, so that a 24-hour lasting color stability can be provided.

[0481] With the composition according to the invention containing 5 wt% of the mixture M1, no color change is discernible, so that a 24-hour color stability can also be provided here.

[0482] By using the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1, a high-performance color care product can be provided (for example, foundation, lipstick, or eyeshadow). The color stability of the film after washing is evaluated as follows:

[0483]

[0484] Gloss stability is also assessed before drying, after drying, and after tallow deposition, with all compositions exhibiting gloss stability after drying. The gloss of the comparison composition changes during tallow deposition, meaning the resulting gloss is not long-lasting.

[0485]

[0486] In both the composition according to the invention with 5 wt.% of the mixture M1 and with 5 wt.% of the polymer P1, no change in gloss occurs, so that a 24-hour lasting gloss can be provided here as well.

[0487] The gloss stability of the film after washing is assessed as follows:

[0488]

[0489] The use of the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1 in appropriate compositions is therefore an optimal solution for high-performance color care and sun protection products.

[0490] Protective effect for the main barrier

[0491] The protective effect of the skin barrier (which is particularly important in damaged skin, as a damaged natural skin barrier leads to water loss) is assessed by in vivo evaluation on 10 subjects. For this purpose, the following compositions are tested, including both oil-in-water (O / W) compositions with and without either the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1, as well as water-in-oil (W / O) compositions with and without either the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1. Each of the inventive compositions contains 2% by weight of either the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1.

[0492] O / W compositions:

[0493]

[0494]

[0495] W / O compositions:

[0496]

[0497] The protective effect is assessed by determining the so-called TEWL value (transepidermal water loss). For this purpose, the TEWL value is measured on the forearm of test subjects under controlled conditions (at temperatures of 22 ± 2 °C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10%) before application, 30 minutes after application, 60 minutes after application, and 120 minutes after application of the composition (measured with a Tewameter®TM Hex).

[0498] A low TEWL value indicates a high barrier and low moisture loss, so particularly low TEWL values ​​are desirable.

[0499] With the O / W composition according to the invention (i.e., with either the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1), a significant reduction in the TEWL value is observed after 30 min and 120 min compared to the comparison composition without the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1. Consequently, both the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 contribute to a significantly improved barrier effect of the skin, particularly compared to untreated areas or to areas treated with a composition without the inventive polymer P1 or without the inventive mixture M1.

[0500]

[0501] The barrier effect of the O / W compositions is assessed as follows:

[0502]

[0503] The inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 thus each contribute to a skin protection effect that is ideally suited for caring and nourishing O / W applications, especially for dry skin.

[0504] Even when using W / O compositions, a significant reduction in the TEWL value after 30 min and 120 min is observed when using the compositions P1 and M1 according to the invention, compared to using compositions without the mixture M1 or the polymer P1. Thus, the mixture M1 and the polymer P1 according to the invention also contribute to an improved barrier function of the skin in W / O formulations and are ideally suited for conditioning and nourishing W / O applications, especially for dry skin.

[0505] The barrier effect of the W / O compositions is assessed as follows:

[0506]

[0507] These investigations thus show that the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 are suitable for both W / O formulations and O / W formulations, and each provides a skin protection effect and a high barrier effect of the skin.

[0508] Moisturizing effect

[0509] The moisturizing effect of a composition is investigated using corneometry, whereby the moisture content of the skin is determined by measuring electrical capacitance using corneometry.

[0510] For this purpose, O / W formulations with and without 2 wt% of either the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1 are prepared (see the following table) and applied to the forearm of test subjects under controlled conditions (at temperatures of 22 ± 2 °C and a relative humidity of 50 ± 10%). Corneometric measurements are performed before application, 30 min after application, 60 min after application, and 120 min after application.

[0511]

[0512]

[0513] The addition of 2 wt% of either the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1 results in a significant improvement in humidification at all time points compared to the reference formulation. The determined moisture contents are given in the following table:

[0514]

[0515] Both the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 thus have a moisturizing effect, which is ideally suited for conditioning and nourishing applications, especially for dry skin. Above all, the inventive mixture M1 and the polymer P1 contribute to hydrating the skin.

[0516] In addition, the moisturizing effect was assessed via a self-assessment by 10 subjects who answered the following three questions one hour after applying the previously described O / W formulation:

[0517] The statement "I feel that my skin is moisturized" was agreed with 100% by all test subjects, and thus all test subjects felt their skin was hydrated after the application of both the composition according to the invention with the mixture M1 and with the polymer P1.

[0518]

[0519] The statement "My skin feels soft after application" was also 100% agreed with, and thus all test subjects perceived the skin surface as soft after application of both the inventive composition with the mixture M1 and with the polymer P1.

[0520] The statement "I find my skin nourished" was also agreed with 100%, and thus the skin of all test subjects felt nourished after the application of both the inventive composition with the mixture M1 and with the polymer P1.

[0521] characteristic feeling

[0522] The so-called signature touch, or characteristic feel, in the realm of creams and skincare refers specifically to the sensory experience or sensation that distinguishes a product from others. The following factors play a particularly important role: skin feel and texture, fragrance and emotional impact, and the application experience. Specifically, aspects such as diffusion, glide, stickiness, penetration, film formation, oiliness, ease of application, and yield are evaluated.

[0523] The assessment is carried out after application to the forearm by the test subject, whereby a comparison O / W composition without the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1 is compared with corresponding compositions which either additionally contain 2 wt% of the inventive mixture M1 or 2 wt% of the inventive polymer P1 (see following table).

[0524]

[0525]

[0526] The assessment is based on a scale from 0 to 3:

[0527]

[0528] The comparison of the O / W compositions shows that stickiness, penetration time, oiliness, and sensory film formation are not increased by using either the inventive mixture M1 or the inventive polymer P1, but the lightness is maintained. The overall properties are even improved by using mixture M1 and polymer P1, with mixture M1 leading to an even greater improvement.

[0529] Furthermore, four anhydrous compositions are compared: a reference composition, a composition containing 8 wt% of a prior art natural film former, and a composition containing either 8 wt% of the inventive mixture M1 or of the inventive polymer P1. Such anhydrous compositions are suitable, for example, for use as or in lipsticks.

[0530]

[0531]

[0532] The assessment is based on a scale from 0 to 3:

[0533]

[0534] In the anhydrous composition, the use of both the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 increases the yield and improves the lubricity, with both the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 exhibiting a stronger effect compared to the natural film-forming agent from the prior art. The overall properties are improved by the use of the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1, with the inventive mixture M1 leading to an even greater improvement.

[0535] Compatibility with other ingredients

[0536] Furthermore, the compatibility of the inventive mixture M1 and the inventive polymer P1 with other common additives or ingredients for and in cosmetic, pharmaceutical or dermatological applications is tested:

[0537] Both the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are compatible with oils, for example with ester oils, vegetable oils (including castor oil), vegetable butters (including shea butter) and other oils (including octyldodekanol and alkani).

[0538] Both the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are compatible with waxes, in particular all natural waxes, such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, sunflower wax, beeswax and the like.

[0539]

[0540] Furthermore, both the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are compatible with pigments, in particular coated and uncoated pigments, with iron oxides, varnishes, castor oil dispersions, effect pigments and the like.

[0541] Finally, both the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are compatible and compatible with preservatives such as tocopherol, glyceryl caprylate, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate.

[0542] III. Further application examples

[0543] The polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention can be used in a variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions and products. Typical application amounts and effects are listed below, from which a person skilled in the art can adapt and optimize a wide variety of compositions according to their expertise, starting from these initial values ​​(In particular, the following information is only a first recommendation, which must be adapted and optimized and is therefore not limiting).

[0544] 1. Color care

[0545] - In color care compositions, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention can typically be used in amounts of 2 to 30 wt.% and ensure, for example, increased yield and a long-lasting effect.

[0546] In this context, both the polymers and the mixtures according to the invention, as described above, have been dermatologically tested and are non-irritating, in particular according to the so-called patch test.

[0547] Furthermore, the polymers and mixtures described above according to the invention have also been tested with regard to a long-lasting effect in foundations when used, for example, at a concentration of 5 wt%.

[0548] In skin care products, the polymers and mixtures described above according to the invention can preferably be used in amounts of 2 to 10 wt.% and, for example, ensure long-lasting film formation. Moisturizing and barrier-protecting effects have also been demonstrated in O / W compositions with an amount of 2 wt.%.

[0549]

[0550] In sun care products, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention described above can be used, in particular in amounts of 2 to 5 wt.%, and provide, for example, increased water resistance.

[0551] In this context, for example, water resistance in O / W compositions with a sun protection factor of 30 and a quantity of 5 wt.% has been demonstrated.

[0552] An optimal pH value can typically be in the range of 4.0 to 7.0.

[0553] In processing or manufacturing processes carried out at elevated temperatures, the polymers or mixtures described above according to the invention can be processed, in particular, in the oil phase.

[0554] The ingredients, or the polymers and mixtures according to the invention, are stable in rancimate at 100 °C for at least 12 hours. Furthermore, the polymers and mixtures according to the invention described above are also stable for at least 7 days after prolonged heating at 60 °C. The polymers and mixtures according to the invention may, at most, have a certain influence on the viscosity of the overall composition. Particularly in oil-in-water (O / W) formulations, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention typically have no or only a minor influence on the viscosity; in particular, changes in viscosity of up to 2 to 8% may occur. In water-in-oil (W / O) compositions, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention typically have no influence even when used in amounts of 2% by weight, although an increase in viscosity is usually to be expected when using amounts of 8% by weight.

[0555] Furthermore, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention typically contribute to increased W / O stability.

[0556]

[0557] The polymers and mixtures according to the invention described and produced above are particularly suitable for use in the following quantities, whereby a person skilled in the art may, if necessary, deviate from these quantities taking into account their general knowledge and the following quantities are not limiting:

[0558] - Lip color: 2 to 15% by weight

[0559] - Lip balm: 5 to 30% by weight

[0560] - Foundation: 2 to 5% by weight

[0561] - Skin care: 2 to 10% by weight

[0562] - Skin barrier effect: 2 to 30 wt.%

[0563] - Sun care: 2 to 5% by weight

[0564] IV. Other product compositions

[0565] Furthermore, the previously described and produced polymer P1 and the previously described and produced mixture M1 according to the invention have been successfully used in proven overall compositions and lead to overall improved compositions, with the use of mixture M1 resulting in an even greater improvement compared to the use of polymer P1: 1. Foundation

[0566] Both the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention have been incorporated into an overall composition for a foundation (amounts: 1.50 wt.% each). In this context, both the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention function in particular as strong film formers and result in a long-lasting and light skin feel.

[0567] The overall formulation of this foundation is a water-in-oil (W / O) foundation, which is easy to apply and blend, dries to a matte finish, and leaves the skin feeling soft. The formulation contains otherwise standard ingredients in standard amounts (e.g., W / O emulsifiers, pigments, emollients, sensory modifiers, wetting agents, thinning agents, stabilizers, etc.).

[0568] &

[0569]

[0570]

[0571] &

[0572]

[0573] 2. Long-lasting lipstick

[0574] Furthermore, the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are incorporated into a composition for a long-lasting lipstick according to the following table. In this context, both the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention improve the long-lasting effect and wearability, with the mixture M1 providing an even greater improvement. The polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention also provide a water-repellent function. This long-lasting lipstick is a 2-in-1 lipstick with visible phases, providing color and care and protecting sensitive lips from moisture loss.

[0575]

[0576]

[0577] &

[0578]

[0579] The overall quality of the lipstick is rated according to the previously mentioned scale as follows:

[0580]

[0581] 3. Skin barrier concentrate

[0582] Furthermore, the aforementioned polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are incorporated into a skin barrier concentrate, which is an oil-in-water (O / W) cream that can be used 2-in-1, namely offering the purity of a rich concentrate and being mixable with serum or lotion to enrich a formulation. The polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention, in combination with oils rich in linoleic acid, can provide a skin barrier effect.

[0583]

[0584] Thus, the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention provide protection of the skin barrier and enable moisturizing properties.

[0585]

[0586] 4. Nourishing W / O Cream

[0587] Furthermore, the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are also incorporated into a nourishing water-in-oil (W / O) cream according to the following composition. This cream strengthens the skin barrier, protecting the skin from moisture loss, particularly in winter. The cream can also be provided as a vegan option by using DYNASAN® 118 instead of beeswax. The polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention provide a nourishing sensory experience and a barrier effect on the skin.

[0588]

[0589]

[0590] 5. Light sunscreen spray

[0591] Finally, the polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention are incorporated into a light sunscreen spray, which is a water-free spray with a high sun protection factor and high UVA protection, and which creates a light and non-sticky feeling. The mixture M1 and the polymer P1 provide improved naturalness and biodegradability.

[0592] The polymer P1 and the mixture M1 according to the invention also improve the uniformity of the film and the water resistance.

[0593]

[0594]

[0595] Conclusion

[0596] The experiments according to the invention thus show that the polymers and mixtures according to the invention can be used as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions and bring about a multitude of improvements.

[0597] In particular, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention are 100% vegan and can be provided on the basis of renewable sources, whereby only natural raw materials can be used.

[0598] Furthermore, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention are compatible with the skin and should therefore meet regulatory requirements worldwide, especially in Canada, Europe, Japan, Korea, the USA, etc.

[0599]

[0600] The technical effects, in particular the effect as a functional additive, preferably the effect as a film former (i.e., film-forming effect), including long-lasting effect, support of water resistance, protection of the skin barrier, and moisture supply, have been technically tested and efficiently verified in the preceding experiments. Furthermore, the polymers and mixtures according to the invention improve sensory properties; in particular, the polymers and mixtures according to the invention provide a light after-feel, are non-oily, non-sticky, and have a short penetration time.

[0601] Finally, the polymers or mixtures according to the invention are, for example, particularly well suited for long-lasting cosmetic color care products, water-resistant sun care products, moisturizing skin care products, etc.

Claims

1. Patent claims:

1. Use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1= Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

2. Use according to claim 1, where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Cβ-Cis alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, particularly preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5; however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

3. Use according to claim 1 or claim 2, where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-Cis alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-Cis alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5; however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

4. Use according to any of the preceding claims, where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Cβ-Cis alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5; however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-Cg-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-Cg-alkyl residue as residue R 1and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

5. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-Cis alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-Cis alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5; however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1= C -alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one C-alkyl group as R 1 exhibits.

6. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Cβ-Cis alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 3, preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 5 to 7, preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5; however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents C?-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Cg-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = C-alkyl, and / or, however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one C?-alkyl group as R. 1 and at least one Cg alkyl group as R group 1 and at least one C17 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

7. Use according to any of the preceding claims, where in the general formula (I) the remainder R 1 does not represent a branched alkyl group, in particular not a branched Ce-C-is alkyl group; and / or where in the general formula (I) the remainder R 1an unsubstituted alkyl group, in particular an unsubstituted Ce-C-is alkyl group, and / or wherein in the general formula (I) the group R 1 does not contain a hydroxyl group; and / or where in the general formula (I) the remainder R 1 represents a linear, saturated and unsubstituted alkyl group, in particular a linear, saturated and unsubstituted Ce-Cis alkyl group.

8. Use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, in particular use according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer comprises the following units (polymer building blocks): (i) Units (i) which are derived from polyglycerols, in particular from di- to undecaneglycerols, preferably from di- to pentaglycerols, especially preferably from di- to tetraglycerols, most preferably from triglycerols; (ii) Units (ii) which are derived from polycarboxylic acids, in particular dicarboxylic acids, preferably from Cs-C-io-dicarboxylic acids, especially preferably from linear, saturated or unsaturated Cs-C-io-dicarboxylic acids, most preferably from linear saturated Cs-C-io-dicarboxylic acids; wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular the units (i) derived from polyglycerols, is grafted with Cα-Cα9 carboxylic acids, in particular Cα-Cα9 fatty acids, preferably linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cα-Cα9 carboxylic acids, particularly preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated Cα-Cα9 carboxylic acids, most preferably linear saturated Cα7-Cα9 carboxylic acids, however, provided that the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular the units (i) which are derived from polyglycerols, is grafted with at least one C7-Cn carboxylic acid and with at least one Ci7-Ci9 carboxylic acid.

9. Use according to claim 8, wherein the carboxylic acid is not a branched carboxylic acid, in particular not a branched C7-Ci9 carboxylic acid, and / or wherein the carboxylic acid is a linear carboxylic acid, in particular a linear C7-Ci9 carboxylic acid; and / or wherein the carboxylic acid is an unsubstituted carboxylic acid, in particular an unsubstituted C7-Ci9 carboxylic acid, and / or wherein the carboxylic acid, in particular the C7-Ci9 carboxylic acid, does not contain a hydroxyl group; and / or wherein the carboxylic acid is a linear, saturated and unsubstituted carboxylic acid, in particular a linear, saturated and unsubstituted C7-Ci9 carboxylic acid.

10. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is present in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester.

11. Use according to claim 10, where the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol corresponds to the general formula (II) RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) where in the general formula (II) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) where the remainder is R 1a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2, however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents C6-Ci8-alkyl.

12. Use according to claim 10 or claim 11, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol is a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, wherein the polyglycerol is selected from the group of di- to undecaneglycerols, preferably di- to pentaglycerols, particularly preferably di- to tetraglycerols, most particularly preferably triglycerols, and wherein the carboxylic acid, in particular the fatty acid, is selected from the group of C7-Ci9 carboxylic acids, in particular C?-Ci9 fatty acids.

13. Use according to any one of claims 10 to 12, wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 99.99 : 0.01 to 70 : 30, in particular in the range of 99 : 1 to 75 : 25, preferably in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 : 20; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of at least 70 : 30, in particular of at least 75 : 25, preferably of at least 80 :

20.

14. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a hydroxyl number (OHV), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 17 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g.

15. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a saponification value (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 3 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g.

16. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C.

17. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the method of the DGF CV 2 (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of at most 2 mg KOH / g.

18. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv): (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g; (ii) a saponification value (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g; (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C; (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

19. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv): (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g; (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g; (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C; (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

20. Use according to claim 18 or claim 19, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has at least the properties (i) and (ii), in particular at least the properties (i), (ii) and (iii), preferably all properties (i) to (iv).

21. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv): (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g; (ii) a saponification value (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g; (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C; (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

22. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv): (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g; (ii) a saponification number (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g; (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C; (iv) an acid number (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g.

23. Use according to claim 21 or claim 22, wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has at least the properties (i) and (ii), in particular at least the properties (i), (ii) and (iii), preferably all properties (i) to (iv).

24. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of not more than 500 mPas; and / or wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), in the range of 10 mPas to 500 mPas; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of not more than 500 mPas; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a viscosity at 50 °C, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.10 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), in the range of 10 mPas to 500 mPas.

25. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol.

26. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer has a weight-average molecular weight (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol.

27. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv): (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g; (ii) a saponification value (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g; (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C; (iv) an acid value (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g; and wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol; and / or wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol.

28. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has at least one, in particular at least two, preferably all, of the following properties (i) to (iv): (i) a hydroxyl value (OHV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 17 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 10 to 100 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 50 to 70 mg KOH / g; (ii) a saponification value (SAP), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 3 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), in the range of 200 to 270 mg KOH / g, in particular in the range of 220 to 260 mg KOH / g; (iii) a dropping point, in particular determined according to Ph. Eur. 2.2.17 (European Pharmacopoeia 10.0), of at least 35 °C; (iv) an acid value (AV), in particular determined according to the DGF CV 2 method (standard method of the German Society for Fat Science), of not more than 2 mg KOH / g; and wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a number-average molecular mass (Mn), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 1,000 to 4,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 1,500 to 3,800 g / mol, preferably in the range of 1,800 to 3,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 2,000 to 3,000 g / mol; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw), in particular determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), preferably using polystyrene as a standard, particularly preferably determined according to DIN 55672-1:2016, in the range of 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol, in particular in the range of 2,500 to 8,000 g / mol, preferably in the range of 3,000 to 7,500 g / mol, particularly preferably in the range of 4,000 to 6,000 g / mol.

29. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is / are biodegradable.

30. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is incorporated and / or added in an amount in the range of 0.0001 to 50 wt.%, in particular in an amount in the range of 0.001 to 25 wt.%, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15 wt.%, most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 10 wt.%, into a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) intended for topical application, based on the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product); and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is incorporated and / or added in an amount in the range of 0.0001 to 50 wt.%, in particular in an amount in the range of 0.001 to 25 wt.%, preferably in an amount in the range of 0.01 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 15 wt.%, most preferably in an amount in the range of 0.5 to 10 wt.%, into a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) intended for topical application, in relation to the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product).

31. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is incorporated and / or added in combination with at least one further additive into a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) intended for topical application; in particular wherein at least one further additive is selected from the group of processing aids, stabilizers, emulsifiers, oxidation stabilizers (antioxidants), vitamins, minerals, enzymes and coenzymes, humectants, pH adjusters, pH buffers, thickeners, liquefiers, rheology modifiers, film formers, flavorings, antiseptics, UV stabilizers, UV protectants, surfactants, alcohols, silicones, fillers, pigments, waxes, oils, fats, colorings, dyes, buffers, fragrances, perfumes, extenders, binders, wetting agents and / or preservatives as well as their combinations and mixtures; and / or in particular wherein the at least one further additive is selected from the group of oxidation stabilizers (antioxidants), preferably in amounts in the range of 0.01 wt.% to 0.1 wt.%, based on the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer orreferring to the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other.

32. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions, in particular dermatological, intended for topical application are selected from the group of cosmetic products for skin, hair and body care and cosmetics and dermatological products for topical application to skin, hair and mucous membranes; in particular, the cosmetic products for skin, hair and body care and cosmetics are selected from the group of cleansing gels, cleansing milks, micellar waters, scrubs, day creams, night creams, anti-aging creams, serums, masks, in particular toner masks, moisturizing masks, exfoliating masks, creams, in particular moisturizing creams, anti-wrinkle creams, cream showers, nourishing shower gels, body lotions, in particular moisturizing lotions, firming body creams, hand creams, bath additives, in particular bath salts, bubble baths, bath oils, sunscreens, in particular sunscreens, sun sprays, after-sun products, foundation products, concealers, cover sticks, powders, in particular pressed powders, loose powders, setting powders, rouge, blush, cream blush, bronzers, contouring powders, bronzing powders, eyeshadows, eyeliners, kohl, mascara, Eyebrow pencils, eyebrow gels, lipsticks, lip gloss, lip liners, shampoo, conditioner, hair masks,Hairsprays, hair foams, hair mousse, hair gels, hair oils, deodorant sprays, deodorant sticks, roll-on deodorants, shaving gels, shaving creams, shaving foams, aftershaves, shaving balms, body scrubs, foot creams, foot scrubs, foot balms, nail care oils, care creams for hands and nails, Acne gels, acne ointments, wrinkle creams, anti-aging serums, lifting products, brightening serums, creams for age spots, hypoallergenic products, hair wax, hair gels, wound protection creams, and their combinations and mixtures; and / or in particular where the pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, products for topical application to skin, hair and mucous membranes are selected from the group of pharmaceutical, especially dermatological, compositions for the prophylactic and / or therapeutic topical treatment of diseases of the skin, mucous membrane or hair.

33. Use according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions, are in solid, liquid or flowable form, in particular in the form of creams, gels, pastes, ointments, tinctures, sprays, lotions, dispersions, suspensions, emulsions, powders, suppositories, serums, oils, foams, mousses, sticks, roll-on compositions, balms and their combinations and mixtures.

34. Use according to any of the preceding claims for improving the film-forming properties of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) intended for topical application.

35. Use according to any of the preceding claims to improve the stability of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions (products).

36. Use according to any of the preceding claims for improving the moisturizing properties and / or the oiling effect of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions (products).

37. Use according to any of the preceding claims for improving the application behavior and / or the wetting behavior of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) intended for topical application.

38. Use according to any of the preceding claims for improving the penetration behavior of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions (products) intended for topical application, in particular dermatological compositions (products).

39. Use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, in particular use according to any one of claims 1 to 38, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear saturated Ce alkyl group or a linear saturated C alkyl group; • represents the variable n 2; • the variable m represents 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = C -alkyl, and / or however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one C-alkyl group as R 1 exhibits; in particular wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer in mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of general formula (II) RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) can be used, where in the general formula (II) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear saturated Ce alkyl group or a linear saturated C alkyl group; • the variable n represents 2, however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ce-alkyl and / or R 1= Ci 7- alkyl represents; preferably wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is present with a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 :

20.

40. Use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or use of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, in particular use according to any one of claims 1 to 38, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear saturated alkyl group selected from Cα-alkyl, Cg-alkyl and Cβ-alkyl; • represents the variable n 2; • the variable m represents 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents C?-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Cg-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1- C(O) - with R 1 = C-alkyl, and / or, however, with the proviso that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one C?-alkyl group as R. 1 and at least one Cg alkyl group as R group 1 and at least one C17 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits; in particular wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer in mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of general formula (II) RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) can be used, where in the general formula (II) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 represents a linear saturated alkyl group selected from Cα-alkyl, Cg-alkyl and Cβ-alkyl; • the variable n represents 2, however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = C?-Alkyl and / or R 1 = Cg-alkyl and / or R 1 = C17-AI kyl; preferably wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand is present with a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 :

20.

41. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application, wherein the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition contains at least one functional additive, in particular at least one film former, together with a cosmetically and / or pharmaceutically, in particular dermatologically, compatible excipient (carrier), wherein the functional additive, in particular the film former, comprises and / or is a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1= Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

42. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to claim 41, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is present in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined in one of the preceding claims, in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition; and / or wherein the composition is a cosmetic composition and also contains at least one cosmetic ingredient, preferably a plurality of cosmetic ingredients, or wherein the composition is a pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition and also contains at least one pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, ingredient, preferably at least one pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, active ingredient.

43. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to claim 41 or claim 42, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) is / are as defined in any one of claims 1 to 40.

44. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by one or more of the features of claims 1 to 40.

45. Functional additive, in particular film former, for cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application, wherein the functional additive, in particular the film former, comprises and / or is a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1= Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

46. ​​Functional additive according to claim 45, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is present in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined in one of the preceding claims, in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition. A7. Functional additive according to claim 45 or claim 46, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) is / are as defined in any one of claims 1 to 42.

48. Functional additive according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized by one or more of the features of claims 1 to 44.

49. Mixture (combination) (a) of a polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and (b) of a fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, where in the mixture (combination) (a) the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-Ci8 alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, most preferably 2; 100 • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-cis alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits; and (b) wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol corresponds to the general formula (II) RO - [ CH2-CH(OR) - CH2- O ] n - CH2- CH(OR) - CH2- OR (II) where in the general formula (II) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) -, where the remainder R 1a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-Ci8 alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2, however, provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R does not represent hydrogen, and / or provided that in the general formula (II) at least one residue R, in particular at least two residues R, represents a residue R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-is-alkyl.

50. Mixture (combination) according to claim 49, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol is a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, wherein the polyglycerol is selected from the group of di- to undecaneglycerols, preferably di- to pentaglycerols, particularly preferably di- to tetraglycerols, most particularly preferably triglycerols, and wherein the carboxylic acid, in particular the fatty acid, is selected from the group of Cα-Cα9 carboxylic acids, in particular Cα-Cα9 fatty acids. VO N RO HR 101 PATENT TA N WÄLT E PARTY 51. Mixture (combination) according to claim 49 or claim 50, wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol in the range of 99.99 : 0.01 to 70 : 30, in particular in the range of 99 : 1 to 75 : 25, preferably in the range of 98 : 2 to 80 : 20; and / or wherein the mixture (combination) of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer on the one hand and fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol on the other hand has a weight ratio of polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer to fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol of at least 70 : 30, in particular of at least 75 : 25, preferably of at least 80 :

20.

52. Mixture (combination) according to any one of the preceding claims, each characterized by at least one of the features of claims 1 to 48.

53. Fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer, in particular for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, compositions (products) for topical application and / or for use as a functional additive, preferably as a film former, in topical applications in the field of cosmetics and / or pharmaceuticals, in particular dermatology, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 exhibits.

54. Fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer according to claim 53, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol-polycarboxylic acid polymer is present in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined in one of the preceding claims, in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition.

55. Fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer according to claim 53 or claim 54, each characterized by at least one of the features of claims 1 to 52. VO N RO HR 103 PATENT TA N WÄLT E PARTY 56. Method for improving the film-forming properties of a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition (product) for topical application, wherein at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is added to the composition as a functional additive, in particular as a film former, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer has repeat units of the general formula (I) where in the general formula (I) • the residue R, whether the same or different and independent of each other, represents: hydrogen or a residue R 1 - C(O) - , where the remainder is R 1 a Ce-C-is alkyl group, in particular a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, preferably a linear, saturated or unsaturated Ce-C-is alkyl group, particularly preferably a linear saturated Ce-C-is alkyl group; • the variable n represents an integer from 1 to 10, in particular from 1 to 4, preferably from 1 to 3, especially preferably 2; • the variable m represents an integer from 0 to 7, in particular from 4 to 7, preferably from 5 to 7, especially preferably 6; and • the variable p represents an integer from 1 to 5, however, with the proviso that for each repetition unit of the general formula (I) at least one remainder R a remainder R 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = represents Ce-C-io-alkyl and at least one R group contains a R group 1 - C(O) - with R 1 = Ci6-Ci8-alkyl, and / or provided that each repeating unit of the general formula (I) has at least one Ce-C-io-alkyl group as R 1 and at least one Ci6-Ci8 alkyl group as R group 1 features. VO N RO HR •104 PAT EN TA NWÄ LT E PARTY 57. Method according to claim 56, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer is used in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical, in particular dermatological, composition in a mixture and / or in combination with at least one fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol, in particular with a polyglycerol carboxylic acid (partial) ester, preferably with a polyglycerol fatty acid (partial) ester, in particular as defined in one of the preceding claims.

58. Method according to claim 56 or claim 57, wherein the fatty acid-grafted polyglycerol polycarboxylic acid polymer and / or the mixture (combination) is / are as defined in any one of claims 1 to 55.

59. Method according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by one or more of the features of claims 1 to 55.

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