Colored lip care product

Abstract

Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) containing the colorant with the Color Index CI 14720.

Description

[0001] Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft

[0002] Hamburg

[0003] Description

[0004] Tinted lip care product

[0005] The present invention relates to a cosmetic lip care product containing dyes.

[0006] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is rooted in human nature. Even though the ideal of beauty has changed over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0007] For the skin to fully perform its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Skin care products, usually creams, ointments, or lotions, primarily serve to moisturize and replenish the skin's natural oils. They often contain active ingredients intended to regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent and reduce premature aging (such as the formation of fine lines and wrinkles).

[0008] Besides cleansing and caring for the skin, cosmetics also have an aesthetic function. They are intended to "improve" the user's appearance according to prevailing cultural standards. Cosmetics thus fulfill a psychological and social function, as they enhance the (visual) attractiveness of the user. This category primarily encompasses "decorative" cosmetics, which alter the user's appearance using dyes applied to the skin. Indirectly, however, cleansing and care products also have a positive influence, since clean, healthy skin corresponds to people's ideal of beauty.

[0009] Lip care products represent a special form of cosmetic preparation. On the one hand, they serve to care for the skin of the lips, protecting and regenerating them in cases of dryness and chapping. On the other hand, lip care products also serve a decorative purpose, as they give the lips a special expression through shine or color.

[0010] Lip care products are available in stick form or as a more or less viscous cream ("lip butter"). Lip care products are subject to special requirements. They must be completely safe from a toxicological perspective to eliminate any risk of poisoning. Furthermore, they must be spreadable yet remain firmly in place on the lips after application without feeling sticky. Finally, these products must be microbiologically and physically stable (e.g., resistant to temperature and UV light) over a long period.

[0011] One disadvantage of the current state of the art is that colored lip creams based on water-in-oil emulsions (W / O emulsions) have a rather thin, low-viscosity consistency, meaning they require a higher amount of consistency enhancers (which can lead to stability problems in the formula) and tend to fade under UV radiation. In sunlight, the preparations become lighter and paler in appearance over time. This particularly affects the red colorant with the color index CI 45380 (tetrabromofluorescein).

[0012] The object of the present invention was therefore to provide a lip cream based on water-in-oil emulsions (W / O emulsions) that is more color-stable and inherently has a higher viscosity.

[0013] The problem is surprisingly solved by a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) containing the dye with the color index CI 14720.

[0014] The problem is also surprisingly solved by using a dye with the color index CI 14720 in cosmetic W / O emulsions to increase the color stability of the preparation.

[0015] The problem is solved surprisingly well, not least by the use of a dye with the color index CI 14720 in cosmetic W / O emulsions to increase the viscosity of the preparation.

[0016] Within the scope of the present disclosure, the terms “according to the invention”, “preparation according to the invention”, etc., always refer to the preparations and uses according to the invention, i.e., also to preparations in which the use according to the invention is realized.

[0017] According to the invention, the dye with the color index CI 14720 is preferably the water-soluble red dye azorubine.

[0018] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the dye with color index CI 14720 is contained in the emulsion at a concentration of 0.1 to 0.25 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation. A concentration range of 0.17 to 0.21 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0019] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the emulsion contains, as an additional colorant, the compound with the color index CI 42090. According to the invention, the compound Brilliant Blue FCF is used.

[0020] In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the emulsion contains the compound with the color index CI 42090 in a concentration of 0.003 to 0.008 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation. A concentration range of 0.004 to 0.006 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation, is preferred according to the invention.

[0021] Advantageous embodiments of the present invention are also achieved by using polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) as a W / O emulsifier.

[0022] In this case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the W / O emulsifier polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (INCI: polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate) is used in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0023] According to the invention, a preferred concentration range is 0.19 to 0.21 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0024] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the emulsion contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil).

[0025] In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if the emulsion contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) in a concentration of 3 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0026] Furthermore, advantageous embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains sunflower seed oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil).

[0027] In such a case, the embodiments advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains sunflower seed oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) in a concentration of 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0028] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the emulsion contains sunflower seed wax (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera). In such a case, the advantageous embodiments according to the invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains sunflower seed wax (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera) in a concentration of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0029] Furthermore, it is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the emulsion contains castor oil (INCI: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), cocoglycerides (INCI: Cocoglycerides), caprylic / capric triglycerides (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), octyldodecanol, shea butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), tocopheryl acetate and / or tocopherol.

[0030] Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the emulsion contains magnesium stearate and / or glycerin. Last but not least, advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized by the fact that the emulsion contains one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate), 4-(tert-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane), 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-T-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine).

[0031] Examples and comparative experiments

[0032] The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions, and percentages are based on the weight and total quantity or total weight of the preparations.

[0033] The active content (=active concentration) is defined in accordance with the definition in Article 2, point 2 of the Commission Decision of the European Union of 9 December 2014 establishing the environmental criteria for awarding the EU Ecolabel to ‘rinse-off’ cosmetic products, notified under document number C(2014)9302, as the sum of the ingredients of the raw material mixture, calculated on the basis of the finished formulation of the raw material in grams.

[0034] The following preparations were manufactured and their viscosity and stability under UV light were investigated. Recipe 14,

[0035] Market formula with formulation 16, formula water-soluble with oil-soluble inci dyes pigment dispersions Sodium Hyaluronate 0.2 0.2 Cl 42090 + Aqua + Sodium Chloride + Sodium

[0036] Sulfates (92% active concentration) 0.005 O Cl 14720 + Aqua + Sodium Chloride + Sodium

[0037] Sulfates (89% active concentration) 0.2 0 Ricinus Communis Seed Oil + Cl 42090 +

[0038] Tocopherol + Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (35%

[0039] Active concentration) 0 0.0131 Ricinus Communis Seed Oil + Cl 45380 +

[0040] Tocopherol + Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil (35%

[0041] Active concentration) 0 0.509 Cocog lycerides 16.7 16.7 Octyldodecanol 7.64 7.3179 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 13.08 13.08 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 10 10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2 2 Ricinus Communis Seed Oil 20 20 Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera + Ascorbyl Palmitate

[0042] + Tocopherol + Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 3 3 Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil 5 5 Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate + Aqua 2 2 Aroma 0,95 0,95 Glycerin + Aqua 5 5 Magnesium Stearate 0,13 0,13 Aqua 0,995 1 Tocopherol + Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0,1 0,1 Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4,5 4,5 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2 2 Ethylhexyl Triazone 2 2

[0043]

[0044] Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4,5 4,5

[0045] Both formulas contain one red and one blue dye. The red dyes are used at an active concentration of 0.178%, while the blue dyes contain an active concentration of 0.0046%. The blue dye in both cases is CI 42090 (Brilliant Blue FCF), a triphenylmethane dye, used once in an aqueous solution and once as a pigment dispersion. The red dye used as a pigment dispersion is CI 45380 (tetrabromofluorescein), and the water-soluble red dye is CI 14720 (azorubine).

[0046] The two samples were irradiated with UV light using the following method:

[0047] Device: Atlas Suntest CPS+

[0048] Irradiation duration: 72 hours

[0049] Irradiation power: 765 W / m² 2 The LAB values ​​were determined using the following method:

[0050] The LAB values ​​were measured using a device from the company Pezy. This device produces color-calibrated images under standardized lighting (daylight spectrum 5500 Kelvin). LAB values ​​are then extracted from these images.

[0051] Measurement results LAB values

[0052] MD R MD G MD B MD L MD Lab_a MD Lab_b Recipe 14 63 9 14 11 26 11

[0053] Recipe 14 31 8 11 5 10 2

[0054] irradiated

[0055] Recipe 16 248 118 97 65 48 36

[0056] Recipe 16 249 144 83 70 34 49

[0057] irradiated

[0058]

[0059] Conclusion: The market formula to be patented has become somewhat darker, and the comparison formula with oil-soluble pigment dispersions has faded considerably.

[0060] Furthermore, the viscosity of the two unirradiated samples (formulation 14 and formulation 16) was determined over a period of 4 days at 20 °C using the following measurement method:

[0061] Company: ProRheo

[0062] Device type: Rheomat R123

[0063] Measured with spindle 2

[0064] Viscosity measurement results after 5 seconds / 30 seconds

[0065] After 2 days, 4 days

[0066] Formula 14 30650 / 23500 28700 / 24200

[0067] Formula 16 25550 / 22500 28500 / 23250

[0068]

[0069] Conclusion: The formulation with water-soluble pigments (formulation 14) exhibits slightly higher viscosity values ​​at various measurement times. Further examples

[0070] inci Rezeptur 1 Rezeptur 2 CI 42090 + Aqua + Sodium Chloride + Sodium Sulfate 0,005 0,005 CI 14720 + Aqua + Sodium Chloride + Sodium Sulfate 0,2 0,2 Cocoglycerides 16,7 16,7 Octyldodecanol 12,84 7,84 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 13,08 13,08 Butyrospermum Parkii Butter 5 0 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2 2 Ricinus Communis Seed Oil 20 20 Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera + Ascorbyl Palmitate +

[0071] Tocopherol + Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 3 3 Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil 5 5 Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate + Aqua 2 2 Aroma 0,95 0,95 Glycerin + Aqua 5 5 Magnesium Stearate 0,13 0,13 Aqua 0,995 0,995 Tocopherol + Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil 0,1 0,1 Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4,5 4,5 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2 2 Ethylhexyl Triazone 2 2 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 4,5 4,5 Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter 0 10

[0072]

Claims

Patent claims 1. Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion) containing the dye with the color index CI 14720.

2. Use of a dye with the Color Index CI 14720 in cosmetic W / O emulsions to increase the color stability of the preparation.

3. Use of a dye with the color index CI 14720 in cosmetic W / O emulsions to increase the viscosity of the preparation.

4. Cosmetic W / O emulsion according to claim 1 or use according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the dye with the color index CI 14720 is contained in the emulsion in a concentration of 0.1 to 0.25 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

5. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains as a further colorant the compound with the Color Index CI 42090.

6. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains as a further colorant the compound with the Color Index CI 42090 in a concentration of 0.003 to 0.008 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) is used as the W / O emulsifier.

8. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (INCI: Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate) is used as the W / O emulsifier in a concentration of 1.5 to 2.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil).

10. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) in a concentration of 3 to 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

11. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains sunflower seed oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil).

12. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains sunflower seed oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) in a concentration of 0.05 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

13. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains sunflower seed wax (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera).

14. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains sunflower seed wax (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera) in a concentration of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

15. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains castor oil (INCI: Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), cocoglycerides (INCI: Cocoglycerides), caprylic / capric triglycerides (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), octyldodecanol, shea butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), tocopheryl acetate and / or tocopherol.

16. A cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains magnesium stearate.

17. A cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains glycerin.

18. Cosmetic W / O emulsion or use according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains one or more UV filters selected from the group consisting of the compounds 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Salicylate), 4-(tert-Butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane), 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Ethylhexyl Triazone), 2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl Triazine).

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