Texturing GEL composition

Abstract

Texturizing compositions for the use in cosmetic formulations, characterized by high degree of naturality. More specifically, the invention is direct to a texturizing composition in form of gel comprising specific zeolites and natural oils and the relative cosmetic formulations comprising it.

Description

[0001] BW1096M TEXTURING GEL COMPOSITION

[0002] Field of the invention

[0003] The present invention relates generally to texturizing compositions for the use in cosmetic and skincare formulations, characterized by high degree of naturality. More specifically, the invention is directed to a texturizing composition in form of gel with specific zeolites and natural oils and the relative cosmetic formulations comprising it.

[0004]

[0005] In the field of cosmetic, texturizing agents represent an important area for the development of several products since they are increasingly used for numerous formulations such as moisturizers, cleansers, serums, make-up formulations, and the like.

[0006] In this field, one of the main demands is related to the development of active formulations that can ensure a good spreadability and conformability to the skin, since textures influence the wearing and application comfort of cosmetic products and impart an impression to the consumer with regard to the sensory properties of the product.

[0007] At the same time, in recent years, a new market need which is becoming increasingly popular is represented by the request of a high percentage of naturalness (as defined in ISO 16128-1 of February 2016 and ISO 16128-2 of September 2017) in cosmetic formulations. ISO 16128 offers comprehensive guidelines that define the technical criteria for natural and organic cosmetic ingredients, as well as finished products. It outlines the methodology for evaluating the naturalness of raw materials and calculating the percentage of natural and derived natural ingredients, ultimately resulting in the specific parameter defined as Natural Origin Index (NOI). The NOI is a scale that ranges from 0% to 100%, where synthetic or mineral ingredients are assigned a NOI of 0%, while natural ingredients, such as plant-based components and water, bring to a NOI of 100%. As a consequence, derived natural ingredients fall between 0% and 100%. In the field of texturing products, non-biodegradable synthetic powders, typically polymers, have been widely used in formulation to give different types of cosmetics textures and specific performance. In the field of filler compositions to be added to aBW1096M cosmetic composition in order to modify specific properties such as viscosity, it is known in the art, as for example reported in International patent application W02022146700, the possibility to employ several classes of compounds such as inorganic powders, typically titanium dioxide, calcium carbonate, zinc oxide, silica compounds, clay, mica and zeolites, or organic powders and beads such as polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polyamide / Nylon-12, polyethylene terephthalate, polyurethane, polysiloxanes, commonly defined as microplastics and nanoplastics.

[0008] However, these micro and nanoplastics are solid polymers of synthetic origin, with a Natural Origin Index of 0% and, due to their non-biodegradability, their use is widely restricted in products placed on the Ell / EEA market to avoid or reduce their release into the environment.

[0009] Thus, object of the present invention is to provide a new texturizing agent free of any plastic nano-filler with a high degree of naturality.

[0010] A further aspect which is extremely relevant in the cosmetic field is then represented by having a texturizer ingredient which can be easily formulated in a skincare or makeup product.

[0011] Indeed, formulating cosmetic products presents many challenges, ranging from regulations, product safety, performance, stability, aesthetics and consumer trends. U.S. Patent Application No. US20250032391 discloses a gel texturizer base for gel-like texture cosmetic products, based on over 85% juice derived solvent with the balance being a combination of a texture enhancer and a gum texture modifier. However, as reported above, this requires the use of further texture enhancers and moreover, brings exclusively to gel-like final formulas.

[0012] Thus, after extensive experimentations, the inventors of the present invention found out that, by using a composition comprising specific zeolites and specific natural oils, it is possible to obtain a texturizer in the form of a gel with a high degree of naturality, which can be easily incorporated in different cosmetic formulations to improve the relative texture and spreadability.

[0013] Object of the present invention is therefore a texturizing gel composition for cosmetic and skincare use comprising a selected zeolite powder and a natural or a natural-originBW1096M (bio-based) oil which can be produced for example by fermentation of plant sugars or waste.

[0014] The zeolite is preferably selected in a group consisting of Faujasite (FAU) zeolites, ZSM-5 type (MFI) zeolites, BETA type zeolites and mixtures thereof. The natural or naturalorigin oil is preferably selected in a group consisting of Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Hexyl Laurate, Coco-Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Oleyl Erucate, Caprylyl Caprylate / Caprate, Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Isopropylmyristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cocoglycerides, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dicapryly Ether, Isoamyl Laurate, Dibutyl Adipate, Isododecane, Silicons and Siloxanes.

[0015] Advantageously, said zeolites are characterized by a SiO2 / AhO3 molar ratio comprised between 5 and 50 and by the presence of counterion at an ion exchange site of the framework structure selected among sodium, hydrogen or ammonium.

[0016] In other words, the present invention refers to a gel composition for use as texturizing agent in cosmetic formulations comprising a natural oil and zeolites powder wherein: a) the zeolites are selected in a group consisting of Faujasite (FAU) zeolites, ZSM-5 type zeolites, BETA type zeolites and mixtures thereof, and said zeolites are characterized by:

[0017] - a SiCh / AhCh ratio comprised between 5 and 50,

[0018] - the presence of sodium, hydrogen or ammonium as counter-ion at an ion exchange site of the framework structure,

[0019] b) The natural oil is selected in a group consisting of Caprylic / Capric T riglyceride Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Hexyl Laurate, Coco-Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Oleyl Erucate, Caprylyl Caprylate / Caprate, Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Isopropylmyristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate Cocoglycerides, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dicapryly Ether, Isoamyl Laurate, Dibutyl Adipate, Isododecane, Silicons and Siloxanes.

[0020] In a preferred embodiment the FAU zeolites are characterized by a SiO2 / AhO3 molar ratio comprised between 5 and 30, while the ZSM-5 and BETA type are characterized by a SiO2 / AhO3 molar ratio comprised between 25 and 50.BW1096M According to the invention, the concentration of zeolite is comprised between 20 and 40 %wt, preferably between 30 and 40%wt with respect to the total weight of the composition, and consequently, the concentration of oil is comprised between 60 and 80 %wt, preferably between 60 and 70%wt with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0021] As reported in the below experimental part, the gel composition according to the present invention can be incorporated in a cosmetic formulation.

[0022] The gel also shows elastic properties and compaction resistance, so that it can be used in the production of cosmetic compact powders, with high compatibility to the most common binding agents used in the field. The binding substances represented by certain oils, silicones, powders and emulsifiers with lubricating properties promote the homogeneous distribution and aggregation of particles in a medium, reducing agglomeration phenomena. These aspects give the finished cosmetic product an efficient and pleasant application on the skin, with a silky and velvety sensation to the touch, and finally a high resistance to breakage and mechanical stresses.

[0023] Due to the extremely versatility of the gel composition herein disclosed, said formulation can either be prepared as one phase water-free composition, or as two-phase composition characterized by the presence of a water-free and an aqueous phase. The water-free phase is selected in a group consisting of hydrocarbons, esters, ethers, silicones, waxes, butters, powders, surfactants, solubilizers, or mixtures thereof.

[0024] In a preferred embodiment the one-phase water free formulation is prepared as homogenous powder, preferably in the form of pressed powder, loose powder, or other mixtures of ingredients in a cosmetic powder form, or as anhydrous oily formulation, preferably in the form of hot poured products, lipogel, oils or butters mixtures.

[0025] While, the two-phase formulation is prepared as a homogenous oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, preferably in form of serum or cream.

[0026] The cosmetic formulation according to the invention can also comprise at least one of a cosmetically acceptable emollient, carrier fluid, pigment, humectant, vitamin, antioxidant, emulsifier, co-emulsifier, hydrophilic or hydrophobic thickeners, wax, butter, film former, silicone, surfactant, active agent, extract, fragrance, preservative, pH-adjusting agent, suspending agent and chelating agent.BW1096M

[0027] EXAMPLES

[0028] Hereinafter, the invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the following non-limiting examples. Modifications or variations of the embodiments here exemplified, obvious to an expert in the art, are encompassed by the appended claims.

[0029] Preparation of samples according to the invention S1-S15 and counterexamples C1-C10 Samples and counterexamples have been prepared by combining and mixing zeolite and oil at the required concentration. The choice of a suitable mechanical tool, obvious to an expert in the art, has to provide a homogenous mix without preventing the formation of the gel. In a typical preparation, 3.5 g of zeolites are mixed with 6.5 g of caprylic / capric triglyceride by means of a dual-axis asymmetric mixer or planetary mixer for 2-20 minutes at ambient conditions.

[0030] gelling

[0031] Ref. Framework SiO2 / AhO3 counterion color / odour capacity

[0032] S1 ZSM-5 30 NH4+Yes Greysh, no odour S2 ZSM-5 30 H+Yes Greysh, no odour S3 ZSM-5 50 H+Yes White gel, no odour S4 FAU 5.1 Na+Yes Transparent gel S5 FAU 5.1 H+Yes Transparent gel, no odour S6 FAU 12 NH4+Yes White gel, no odour S7 FAU 12 H+Yes White gel, no odour S8 FAU 30 NH4+Yes White gel, no odour S9 BETA 25 H+Yes Transparent gel, no odour S10 FAU 5.2 NH4+Yes Transparent gel, no odour S11 FAU 5.2 H+Yes Transparent gel, no odour C1 ZSM-5 80 NH4+No Brown paste, no odour C2 ZSM-5 80 H+No Grey liquid, no odour 03 ZSM-5 280 NH4+Yes Brownish, no odour White dispersion with 04 ZSM-5 280 H+No

[0033] bubbles White gel with bubbles, no 05 FAU 60 H+Yes

[0034] odour

[0035] 06 FAU 80 H+Yes Greysh, characteristic odour 07 LTA 2 Na+No Yellowish liquid

[0036]

[0037] 08 LTA 2 K+No White liquid Table 1.

[0038] Table 1 clearly shows that only the specific combination of zeolites and oil according to the present invention allows the formation of a suitable gel.BW1096M Indeed, when a ZSM-5 type zeolite (see S1-S3), a FAU type zeolite (see S4-S8 and S10- S11) or a BETA type (see S9) with the specific SiG^ / AhCh molar ratio and preferably having one of the counterion selected among sodium, hydrogen or ammonium, is combined with one of the specific natural oil reported (in this case caprylic / capric triglyceride), it is possible to produce a gel which fulfils the required features in terms of colour and odour. In addition, the gel compositions according to the present invention have no dark or brownish colour, are mainly transparent or white and do not produce any unpleasant odours with a consequent advantage for the formulation of cosmetic or skincare products which may require specific colours, odours or may have to be free from both.

[0039] On the contrary, the same zeolites with different SiO2 / AhO3 molar ratio (see C1-C6) or different zeolite framework such as Linde-type zeolites (see C7-C8) are not able to form a gel or do not reach the required qualitative characteristics.

[0040] Examples and counterexamples exploring different zeolite content with caprylic / capric triglyceride are summarized in the following table, along with NOI calculation and the resulting appearance of the obtained mixture.

[0041] Ref. Framework SiO2 / AhO3 counterion %wt NOI Consistency Texturizing effect Transparent,

[0042] S12 FAU 5.1 Na+35 65 Rich velvet touch compact gel

[0043] White, soft

[0044] S14 FAU 12 NH4+30 70 light velvet touch gel

[0045] Transparent,

[0046] S15 FAU 5.2 NH4+35 65 light velvet touch soft gel

[0047] C9 FAU 5.2 NH4+18 82 Liquid Not applicable Rubber-like

[0048] C10 FAU 5.1 Na+42 58 Not applicable

[0049]

[0050] solid

[0051] Table 2.

[0052] Table 2 points out that a too high concentration of zeolites (higher than 40% wt) brings to a low NOI and, at the same time, to the impossibility to form a gel. On the contrary, a too low concentration of zeolites, although related to a high NOI value, brings to the same impossibility to formulate a gel and it is detrimental in terms of both touch feel and ease of application.

[0053] Even though visual appearance and sensoriality descriptions are a well-established way to depict quality of cosmetic products and formulations, sample S12 from Table 2 hasBW1096M been extensively characterized in terms of its rheological properties, by means of a rotational rheometer equipped with cone-plate configuration.

[0054] It reported a dynamic viscosity of 17,500 cP @ 5 s-1 and 25°C (flow-curve in continuous rotation mode), and an elastic modulus value of 260 kPa @ 1 Pa stress and 25°C (oscillation mode).

[0055] In order to prove the versatility of the gel for the formulation of cosmetic products, we herein report some examples of cosmetic products containing the texturizing gel according to the present invention.

[0056] Pressed Powder preparation.

[0057] Methodology:

[0058] Grind powders of Phase A with a suitable mixer or blender. Combine with Phase B and grind until homogeneous. Compact in the pan. Check chemical-physical parameters. Phase INGREDIENTS INCI % wt A Vegetal Zinc Zinc Stearate 2,0 Stearate

[0059] Light rose powder Cl 77492, Cl 77491, Cl 77499 1,0 Titanium Dioxide Cl 77891 20,0 Mica Mica 59,5 B Texturizing Gel Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Zeolite 14,5 SymDiol 68 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol 0,5 Caprylic / Capric Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 2,5 Triglyceride

[0060]

[0061] TOTAL: 100,0 Table 3.

[0062] The obtained product is characterized by a smooth and velvet effect higher than the same formulation without the texturizing gel. The good binding and compacting properties of the gel allows the production of pressed powders.

[0063] Hot Poured preparation

[0064] Methodology:

[0065] Weigh the ingredients of phase A one and heat to a temperature of 80-85°C.

[0066] Add one at time components of phase B under stirring and heating.BW1096M Mix together ingredients of phase C, than add to the principal mixer, and stir until the mix is homogeneous. At temperature of 75-80°C pour the product into the selected package and wait until solidified.

[0067] Phase INGREDIENTS INCI % wt A Coco-caprylate Coco-caprylate 27,0 Tinogard TT Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl 0,1

[0068] Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

[0069] B Deodorized Cocoa Butter Theobroma cacao seed butter 10,0 Mimic Beeswax Oryza sativa bran wax, Shorea robusta 5,0 resin, Rhus succedanea fruit cera,

[0070] Squalene

[0071] Rice Wax Oryza sativa bran wax 15,0 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 2,7 Tocopherol Tocopherol 0,2 C Super soft beige Mica, Cl 77491, Cl 77891 10,0 ZeoSAES NaturGEL Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Zeolite 30,0

[0072]

[0073] TOTAL: 100,0 Table 4.

[0074] The obtained product is characterized by texturizing properties as dry touch, fast absorbing and not greasy finish if compared to the product without texturizing gel.

[0075] Moreover, the presence of the gel also improves the color rendering during the application.

[0076] Oil in Water Emulsion preparation: M ethodology:

[0077] Mix and heat phase A until 75-80°C. Mix and heat phase B until 75°C, then add phase C to B, under stirring.

[0078] Add phase B+C to phase A and homogenize until emulsion is formed.

[0079] Cool under stirring then add phase D (below 45°C), and phase E.

[0080] Phase INGREDIENTS INCI % wt A Demineralized Water Water 51,9 Vegetable glycerol Glycerin 2,0 Propanediol Propanediol 1,0 Xanthan gum Xanthan gum 0,3

[0081]

[0082] BW1096M B Emulsifier 202 Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, 3,0

[0083] Arachidyl Glucoside

[0084] Emulsifier 14 Myristyl Alcohol, Myristyl Glucoside 2,0 Cetearyl alcohol Cetearyl alcohol 3,0 Dimethicone Dimethicone 0,5 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5,0 Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl 0,1 Hydroxyhydrocinnamate Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

[0085] C Texturizing Gel Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Zeolite 30,0 D Preservative PE Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin 1,0 E Lactic Acid 90% Lactic acid, water 0,2

[0086]

[0087] TOTAL: 100,0

[0088] The obtained product is characterized by enhanced smooth effect and dry touch, fast absorption and a velvet finish.

Claims

BW1096MCLAIMS1. A gel composition for use as texturizing agent in cosmetic and skincare formulations comprising a natural oil and a zeolite powder wherein:a) the zeolites are selected in a group consisting of Faujasite (FAU) zeolites, ZSM-5 type zeolites, BETA type zeolites and mixtures thereof, are comprised in an amount between 20 and 40 %wt, preferably between 30 and 40%wt with respect to the total weight of the composition and said zeolites are characterized by:- a SiCh / AhCh molar ratio comprised between 5 and 50,- the presence of sodium, hydrogen or ammonium as counter-ion at an ion exchange site of the framework structure,b) The natural oil is selected in a group consisting of Caprylic / Capric T riglyceride Coco-Caprylate / Caprate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Hexyl Laurate, Coco-Caprylate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Oleyl Erucate, Caprylyl Caprylate / Caprate, Decyl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Isopropylmyristate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Cocoglycerides, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dicapryly Ether, Isoamyl Laurate, Dibutyl Adipate, Isododecane, Silicons and Siloxanes and is comprised in an amount between 60 and 80 %wt, preferably between 60 and 70%wt with respect to the total weight of the composition.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the SiC^ / AhCh molar ratio of the Faujasite type zeolites is comprised between 5 and 30.

3. The composition according to claim 1 wherein the SiC^ / AhCh molar ratio of the ZSM-5 and Beta type zeolites is comprised between 25 and 50.

4. A cosmetic formulation comprising a gel composition according to claims 1 to 3.

5. The cosmetic formulation according to claim 4, further comprising a water-free phase and / or an aqueous phase.

6. The cosmetic formulation according to claim 5, wherein the water-free phase is selected in a group consisting of hydrocarbons, esters, ethers, silicones, waxes, butters, powders, surfactants, solubilizers or mixtures thereof.BW1096M 7. The cosmetic formulation according to claims 4 to 6, wherein the composition is a homogenous oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, preferably in form of serum or cream.

8. The cosmetic formulation according to claims 4 to 6, wherein the composition is in form of a powder, preferably a homogeneous powder, more preferably in the form of pressed powder or loose powder or in form of anhydrous oily formulation, preferably hot poured products, lipogels, oils or butters mixtures.

9. The cosmetic formulation according to claims 4 to 8, further comprising at least one of a cosmetically acceptable emollient, carrier fluid, pigment, humectant, vitamin, antioxidant, emulsifier, co-emulsifier, hydrophilic or hydrophobic thickeners, wax, butter, film former, silicone, surfactant, active agent, extract, fragrance, preservative, pH-adjusting agent, suspending agent and chelating agent.

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