Compositions for cosmetic products comprising porous waxy starches and fatty ingredients

Abstract

The invention relates to a novel mattifying, or volume and / or anti-frizz, agent of cosmetic product, a porous waxy starch according to the invention, that, when combined with fatty ingredients, forms a unique composition that can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations to deliver emollient benefits without compromising the matte finish of the final product on the skin and its volume and anti-frizz effects on hair. This emollient-mattifying complex allows when integrated into various products, to achieve moisturizing effects without the traditional glossy appearance of the cosmetic product induced by fatty ingredients. When integrated in hair care products, the complex becomes an emollient-volume, and optionally anti-frizz, complex that also maintains the volume and reduces hair frizz.

Description

DescriptionTitle: Compositions for cosmetic products comprising porous waxy starches and fatty ingredientsTechnical Field

[0001] This disclosure pertains to the field of cosmetic compositions.Background Art

[0002] In the field of cosmetic products, particularly liquid cosmetic formulations such as foundations and primers, or in solid composition such as stick formulations, there exists a continuous need for products that provide enhanced skin benefits through emollient properties while maintaining a matte appearance.

[0003] Conventional cosmetic compositions, whether liquid or solid, face a significant technical challenge: the incorporation of sufficient amounts of fatty ingredients (such as waxes, butters and oils) to deliver meaningful skin benefits, notably emollient properties, often compromises the desired matte finish of the final product. This technical contradiction limits formulators' ability to create cosmetic products that simultaneously provide excellent skin care benefits and maintain a non-shiny appearance during use.

[0004] More specifically, when traditional cosmetic formulations are enriched with fatty ingredients to enhance moisturization, skin conditioning, and sensorial comfort, several technical issues typically arise:Increased surface shine resulting in unwanted glossy appearance.Reduced longevity of the matte effect.Compromised oil control properties.Inconsistent texture and sensorial properties during product use.Diminished wear time due to emollient migration.

[0005] This technical challenge is particularly present in liquid formulations as well as in solid formulations such as lipsticks. In both cases, the introduction of emollients, while providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits, typically gives a glossy appearance to the lips or face. There is therefore a technical need for products that can provide significant moisturizing benefits while maintaining a matte appearance.

[0006] In the field of hair care compositions, fatty ingredients are commonly incorporated to provide care benefits such as conditioning, softness, lubrication, and comfort. In some cases, such fatty ingredients can also impart an undesirable heavy, greasy, and oily appearance to the hair. In particular, the hair may appear flat, separated into irregular strands, or grouped into stuck-together locks, thereby reducing the impression of clean, light, and voluminous hair. The hair may also lookexcessively shiny, thereby surpassing the normal shine of a healthy natural hair. Accordingly, a need remains for hair care compositions capable of incorporating fatty ingredients for care while limiting the undesirable visual and cosmetic effects usually associated with such ingredients on hair appearance.

[0007] Therefore, there remains a need in the cosmetic formulation art for novel mattifying agents that enable the incorporation of significant amounts of fatty ingredients into cosmetic compositions while providing a matte appearance to the final product, in particular in makeup products, and / or while limiting the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance that such fatty ingredients may impart to hair in hair care products.. There is also a need for an emollient-mattifying complex for cosmetic product that successfully combine the emollient properties (conditioning, strengthening, comfort) with a mattifying effect of the cosmetic product, whether in the form of a matte appearance of the final product or, in the context of hair care products, a reduction of the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance of the hair, and an increasing volume of hair, and which can be easily incorporated into various cosmetic formulations.Summary

[0008] The invention relates to a novel mattifying agent of cosmetic product, a porous waxy starch according to the invention, that, when combined with fatty ingredients, forms a unique composition that can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations to deliver emollient benefits without compromising the matte finish of the final product, in particular in makeup product. This emollient-mattifying complex allows when integrated into various products, to achieve moisturizing effects without the traditional glossy appearance of the cosmetic product induced by fatty ingredients.

[0009] Hence, this composition resolves the challenge of simultaneously providing moisturization and matte finish of the product. Without being bound by theory, it is supposed that the porous waxy starch according to the invention modifies surface light reflection, which is believed to create the matte effect, while preserving the emollient benefits of fatty ingredients, enabling the development of cosmetics products with significant care benefits and a lasting matte appearance.

[0010] The experimental results confirm that waxy porous starch is uniquely effective at enhancing the matte appearance of the final cosmetic product itself, as formulations comprising waxy porous starch exhibited substantially lower gloss values (as evaluated by gloss measurements at 60°) compared to a native starch and placebo formulation

[0011] Advantageously, measurements of L*, C*, and h* - also classic optical parameters widely recognized in the field - further corroborate these findings, with formulas comprising waxy porous starch consistently demonstrating values associated with a more matte appearance. The opacity measurements confirm that the superior mattifying effect of waxy porous starch does not compromise the product's coverage capabilities.

[0012] This combination of mattifying effect with color fidelity is particularly valuable in the lip product category, where both finish and color accuracy are key consumer expectations.

[0013] These results indicate that the complex of waxy porous starch and fatty ingredients constitutes an innovative emollient-mattifying complex, which represents a significant advancement in cosmetic formulation as it simultaneously provides emollience while enabling the creation of matte formulas -properties that have traditionally been considered contradictory in cosmetic science.

[0014] The porous waxy starch can also be incorporated into hair care formulations containing fatty ingredients to deliver care benefits without generating the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance that such fatty ingredients may impart to hair.

[0015] Experimental results further show that, in hair care formulations comprising fatty ingredients, waxy porous starch can contribute to an increase in hair volume and a reduction in hair frizz relative to native starch and placebo formulations, thereby showing that fatty ingredients can be incorporated for care while limiting the undesirable heavy, oily, and flattened appearance of the hair.

[0016] These results indicate that the complex of waxy porous starch and fatty ingredients constitutes an innovative emollient-mattifying complex, which represents a significant advancement in cosmetic formulation as it simultaneously provides emollience while enabling the creation of matte formulas, and further enables the formulation of hair care products that preserve care benefits while improving hair appearance through increased volume and reduced frizz.Detailed description

[0017] Embodiments

[0018] Embodiment 1: Composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient.

[0019] Embodiment 2: The composition according to embodiment 1, wherein the at least one fatty ingredient is selected among wax, butter, oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0020] Embodiment 3: The composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Paraffin Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Wax, Soy Wax, Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Jojoba Wax (Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Berry Wax (Rhus Vemiciflua Peel Wax), Myrica Fruit Wax (Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax), Palm Wax (Elaeis Guineensis), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene Wax, Montan Wax, Bayberry Wax (Myrica Pubescens Fruit Wax), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Meadowfoam Seed Oil Wax (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Tallow (Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides), Ozokerite Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (CastorWax), Synthetic Beeswax, Montan Acid Wax, Ceramide Wax, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ceresin Wax, Fischer-Tropsch Wax, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Soy Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lactyl Lactate, Stearyl Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Ester, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Waxand mixtures thereof, and preferably, among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax), Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0021] Embodiment 4: The composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), Cupuacu Butter (Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), lllipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Tucuma Butter (Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter), Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta Seed Butter), Aloe Butter (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Hemp Seed Butter (Cannabis Sativa Seed Butter), Olive Butter (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Almond Butter (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Macadamia Butter (Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Soy Butter (Glycine Soja Oil and Hydrogenated Soybean Oil), Pistachio Butter (Pistacia Vera Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Pumpkin Seed Butter (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Watermelon Seed Butter (Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Green Tea Butter (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Lavender Butter (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Rose Butter (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Vanilla Butter (Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and mixtures thereof and preferably among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), illipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and mixtures thereof.

[0022] Embodiment 5: The composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the oil is selected among natural oils, essential oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene and mixtures thereof.

[0023] Embodiments: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

[0024] Embodiment 7: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 6, wherein the starch is selected among the group consisting of tapioca starch, corn starch, pea starch, potato starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, rice starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch and buckwheat starch, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected among maize starch and rice starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Embodiment 8: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 7, wherein the degree of hydrolysis of said at least one porous starch is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 9 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20%, preferably 11 and 16%.

[0026] Embodiment 9: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] of the said porous starch; measured by laser diffraction granulometry, is less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 22 microns, and preferably, d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns.

[0027] Embodiment 10: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 9, wherein the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The diameter at 10th percentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 15 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 12 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 10 microns,The diameter at 50th percentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 20 microns,The diameter at 90th percentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 50 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 27 microns.

[0028] Embodiment 11 : Cosmetic product comprising the composition for cosmetic products as described in any of embodiments 1 to 10.

[0029] Embodiment 12: Cosmetic product consisting essentially in the composition as described in embodiments 1 to 10.

[0030] Embodiment 13: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 11 , further comprising other ingredients chosen from fillers, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmeticactive ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0031] Embodiment 14: The cosmetic product according to anyone of embodiments 11 to 13, wherein said cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 100% of a composition for cosmetic products as described in any of claims 1 to 10, preferably between 1 and 90%, preferably between 2 and 80%, preferably from 3 to 70% relative to the total weight of said cosmetic product.

[0032] Embodiment 15: The cosmetic product according to anyone of embodiments 11 to 14, wherein said cosmetic product is a liquid cosmetic product, preferably chosen from oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, multiple emulsions (W / O / W and O / W / O), microemulsions, nanoemulsions, Pickering emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, micellar systems, hydroalcoholic solutions, bi-phase systems and silicone-in-water emulsions.

[0033] Embodiment 16: The cosmetic product according to anyone of embodiments 11 to 14, wherein said cosmetic product is a solid cosmetic product, preferably chosen from balms, sticks, solid bars, solidified emulsions, concealers and bases, waterproof mascaras, lipstick, styling products, care products, contouring and modeling products and pencils.

[0034] Embodiment 17: Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a mattifying agent of a cosmetic product, or as a volume and / or anti-frizz agent of a cosmetic product.

[0035] Embodiment 18: Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as an emollient-mattifying system, or as an emollient-volume system, or as an emollient-volume-anti-frizz system.

[0036] Embodiment 19: Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0037] Embodiment 20: Use of a composition as defined in any of embodiments 1 to 10 or of a cosmetic product as defined in anyone of embodiments 11 to 16, for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0038] Embodiment 21 : Use according to embodiment 20, for increasing hair volume and / or reducing hair frizz.

[0039] Embodiment 22: A cosmetic treatment method for hair, comprising the application onto hair of a composition as defined in any of embodiments 1 to 10 or of a cosmetic product as defined in anyone of embodiments 11 to 16, optionally followed by a shaping step, to increase hair volume and / or to reduce hair frizz.

[0040] Composition for cosmetic products

[0041] As used herein, a "composition for cosmetic products" refers to a formulation that is suitable for providing a cosmetic product. This composition can serve as the pre-mix of a cosmetic product. Itis designed to be physiologically acceptable, meaning it is compatible with the skin and / or its integuments and the hair, has a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (such as stinging or tautness) that would discourage the consumer from using the product.

[0042] In the context of this invention, a "composition for cosmetic products" specifically includes formulations that incorporate at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient.

[0043] These compositions comprising at least one waxy porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient differ from porous starch loaded with fatty ingredients. Indeed, the at least one fatty ingredient exists independently alongside the at least one porous starch rather than being absorbed within it. While minimal absorption may occur in small quantities, the composition differs from approaches where compounds are deliberately loaded into starch granules. In the present invention, the at least one waxy porous starch is dispersed into fatty ingredients. In an embodiment, the composition for cosmetic products is not a free-flowing powder.

[0044] Such compositions may also include additional ingredients, depending on the specific application and desired properties of the cosmetic products.

[0045] The compositions disclosed herein are distinguished from the compositions described in WO2024 / 059459, which are directed to free-flowing plated porous starch granules onto which an oil-and-liquid emulsion is adsorbed so that the granules retain a dry, free-flowing powder form. By comparison, in the compositions disclosed herein, the at least one fatty ingredient remains present as an independent fatty constituent alongside the at least one waxy porous starch, and the at least one waxy porous starch is dispersed in the fatty ingredient rather than being used as a carrier onto which the fatty ingredient is adsorbed, plated, or loaded. Although a minor portion of the fatty ingredient may contact the surface of the porous starch or penetrate a portion of the pores, the composition is not characterized by starch granules loaded with fatty material for conversion into a powder. The composition is not a dry or free-flowing powder.

[0046] In an embodiment, the composition for cosmetic products comprises at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient; wherein the at least one porous starch is dispersed in a fatty phase comprising the at least one fatty ingredient, and wherein at least a portion of the at least one fatty ingredient is present outside the pores of the at least one porous starch.

[0047] In some embodiments, only a minor portion of the at least one fatty ingredient is absorbed into, retained within, or otherwise present in the pores of the at least one porous starch. In some embodiments, the majority of the at least one fatty ingredient remains outside the pores of the at least one porous starch, such that the at least one fatty ingredient forms a continuous or external fatty phase in which the at least one porous starch is dispersed. In some embodiments, more than 50% by weight,alternatively more than 60% by weight, alternatively more than 75% by weight, of the at least one fatty ingredient is present outside the pores of the at least one porous starch.

[0048] Amylose and amylopectin content of starch

[0049] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0050] As used herein, the term porous waxy starch means a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0051] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 90%, or preferably greater than 95%, or more preferably greater than 99%.

[0052] In a preferred embodiment, porous waxy starch means a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%.

[0053] Determining the amylopectin content in starch typically involves potentiometric titration using iodine solution. Initially, the starch sample is defatted using methanol. The deffated starch is solubilized in KOH solution followed by neutralization using HCI solution. The solubilized starch solution is mixed with potassium iodide and then titrated using diluted iodine solution. Amylose can form complex with Iodine, and thus the amount of amylose can be determined based on the amount of complexed iodine. Since starch is mainly made up of amylose and amylopectin, the amylopectin content is then calculated by subtracting the amylose content from 100%.

[0054] Botanical origin

[0055] The starch may be selected from all existing botanical origins, in particular those existing in nature, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, pea starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch, buckwheat starch, barley starch, oat starch, chestnut starch, taro starch, yam starch, banana starch, kudzu starch, plantain starch, jackfruit seed starch, lotus seed starch, acorn starch and mixtures thereof.

[0056] In a preferred embodiment, the starch may be chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, pea starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, barley oat, oat starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch, buckwheat starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] According to one embodiment, the starch is chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch. In a preferred embodiment, the starch is selected among corn starch, rice starch, and mixtures thereof. In a yet preferred embodiment, the starch is corn starch (also sometimes named maize starch).

[0058] Porous starch

[0059] The porous starch is a granular starch, constituted of granules having pores wherein the pores can be in the form of holes present on the surface of the starch and / or in the form of interconnected cavities inside the starch granules.

[0060] “Granular” means the starch is made of individual particles, the granules, which have the shape of the native starch granules, and which also have an internal structure similar or close to the one of native starch. In particular, the granular porous starch still exhibits a birefringence visible by microscopy under polarized light, often referred to as the “Maltese cross”, and its average degree of crystallinity is similar or close to the one of the non porosified starch.

[0061] “Granular” means also that the starch is “non-cooked” and is not a pregelatinized starch. Pregelatinization is a known process applied to starch by spray-drying, roll-drying, drum-drying, extrusion and other heating / drying processes that induces the collapse or disruption of molecular orders within starch granules, manifested in irreversible changes in aspect and in properties such as granular swelling, native crystallite melting (which decreases the amount of crystalline regions of the starch granules, i.e. which reduces the average cristallinity of the starch), loss of birefringence, appearance of a substantial solubility (swelling) in cold water without any cooking, and viscosity development immediately after dispersion in water, in contrast to native starches.

[0062] Starches claimed as porous in WG / 2009 / 103514, WO 2023 / 064836, and US2022 / 078015, or starches sold by Cargill Incorporated under the brand name “Starrier”, such as “Starrier R”, are actually pregelatinized starches, which are non-granular, and are not a granular porous starch according to the present invention or suitable for the cosmetic uses according to the present application.

[0063] Hence, in an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0064] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0065] The porous starch according to the invention is a “non-agglomerated” starch, preferably a “nongranulated” starch, or comprises almost non agglomerates of starch granules. Non-agglomerated means that the starch is essentially made of a plurality of individual free moving porous starch granules which are not physically bonded together. This non-agglomerated state is the usual aspect of native starches after aqueous extraction from plant tubers and grains. In particular, the porous starch according to the invention is not an agglomerated porous starch, as for example obtained by spay-drying or by fluidized-bed, like the granulated product N-ZORBIT® 2144 sold by Ingredion and proposed as a plating agent. This N-ZORBIT® 2144 is composed of agglomerates of at least about 10 individual porous starch granules. These agglomerates are described to be obtained by agranulation process consisting in bonding of starch granules by low molecular weight sugars, wherein sugars were released by hydrolysis by enzymes of the starch during the porosification process of the starch. According to a measurement made by the Applicant, the N-ZORBIT® product contains at least 10% of reducing sugars, especially glucose.

[0066] Hence, in an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0067] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0068] The porous starch according to the invention is not a plating agent such as in the case of “Starrier R” from Cargill, which is a pregelatinized starch as described in W02009 / 103514, and which is used in WO2023 / 064836 to prepare dry premix of cosmetic ingredients, and as the N-Zorbit products from Ingredion. Furthermore, the porous starch according to the invention was not designed to have this specific function of plating agent, but was designed to be a cosmetic ingredient with in particular a mattifying function.

[0069] Pores can also be referred to as cavities or holes and can be used interchangeably.

[0070] The surface morphology of porous granules, and the size and structure of the pores can be analyzed with Scanning Electron Microscopy.

[0071] Observing starch using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) involves a series of meticulous preparation steps followed by imaging. Initially, the starch sample must be dehydrated to remove any moisture that could interfere with the vacuum conditions inside the SEM chamber. The dry starch sample is then mounted on a specimen stub, often using a conductive adhesive to ensure it stays in place and to enhance conductivity. To prevent charging under the electron beam, a thin conductive coating, typically gold or platinum, is sputter-coated onto the sample. The prepared sample is placed into the SEM chamber, which is evacuated to create a high vacuum. Once the sample is in the chamber, an electron beam scans the surface of the starch granules. The interactions between the electron beam and the sample generate various signals, including secondary electrons that are collected to form high-resolution images of the starch granules. These images provide detailed information about the surface morphology, size, and structure of the starch granules, revealing features such as shape, surface texture, including the pores on the surface, and any structural irregularities.

[0072] Any porous starch can be used in the present invention, provided the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0073] Typically, porous starch described in WO2021 / 144245 and in US 4,551,177 can be used.

[0074] In some embodiments, the porous starch may be selected from porous starches having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, in particular granular porous starches that are not cooked, pregelatinized, or agglomerated before incorporation into the composition for cosmetic products.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0077] Moreover, the applicant has also developed specific porous starch as described hereinafter.

[0078] Method for obtaining porous starch

[0079] Porous starch can be obtained by any method suitable to modify starch while being and staying in a granular state, so as to create pores in the structure of the granular starch. The granular state of the starch may also be referred to as a “non-cooked" by the person skilled in the art of starch processing, meaning the starch did not undergo any “cooking”, i.e. did not undergo neither pregelatinization nor gelatinization. The porosity can be more or less extensive. The porosity is less extensive when the pores are merely present on the surface of the starch granules. The porosity is extensive when the pores are in the form of interconnecting cavities inside the starch granules. Any porosity between these two extremes can be obtained by adjusting the production method. Such methods are for example:Physical methods such as mechanical impact, microwave or ultrasound,Chemical methods such as solvent exchange such as direct drying or supercritical drying, acid hydrolysis, molecular insertion,Enzymatic method such as individual enzyme hydrolysis, combined enzyme hydrolysis, Synergic methods such as enzyme hydrolysis combined with ultrasound or crosslinking, extrusion, freeze-thawing, heat-moisture.

[0080] Such methods are known by the one skilled in the art who can refers, for example, to Chen et al. “Preparation, characterization, physicochemical property and potential application of porous starch: A review ’, International Journal of Biological Macromolecules 148 (2020) 1169-1181.

[0081] According to an embodiment, the hydrolysis is performed on a granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, by any combination of any method of porosification listed above, in particular by combining an acid hydrolysis and an enzymatic hydrolysis, and preferably by performing enzymatic hydrolysis only. The enzymatichydrolysis is preferred because it is an environmentally friendly process that saves quantities of energy and chemicals, and is an efficient process that allows for good control of the level of hydrolysis.

[0082] In an embodiment, the method for obtaining the pores is an enzymatic method, preferably an enzymatic method using amylases or transferases. Transferases may be CGTase for instance. Preferably, the enzyme is chosen from amylases, more preferably from alpha(a)-amylase, betaamylase, amylo-glucoamylase, even more preferably is an a-amylase (EC 3.2.1.1), below the gelatinization temperature of starch.

[0083] The principle of starch porosification by enzymes is that the enzyme either drill holes into the starch granules, or enlarge pre-existing holes, by hydrolyzing the starch molecules into smaller molecules like glucose, maltose, and oligosaccharides, thereby creating or increasing the void space inside the granules of starch. The hydrolysis of the starch granules does not occur evenly over all the outer layer of starch constituting the surface of the granules. Instead, there are spots where the enzymes actually drill holes, which creates a distribution of holes over the entire surface of the granules, and then continues to digest the starch inside the granule, thus creating or increasing its porosity.

[0084] In an embodiment, the starch is a starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0085] The present invention also concerns a process for obtaining a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, the process comprising the following steps:Preparing a slurry of granular starch in demineralized water and increasing the temperature below the starch gelatinization temperature,Adjusting the pH between 5 and 7,Adding an a-amylase to the starch slurry while mixing,Incubating at temperature below the starch gelatinization temperature, e.g. 40°C for waxy rice starch and 50°C forwaxy corn starch, until reaching hydrolysis degree between 10% and 15%, Deactivating the enzyme by adjusting the pH to between 3 and 3.5 and allowing it to react for at least 30 minutes while stirring and cooling to room temperature,Neutralizing the slurry to a pH comprised between 5 and 6,Collecting the porous starch obtained, for instance by filtration, and washing to remove free sugars, preferably with water, more preferably with cold water,Drying the porous starch obtained,And, if necessary, sieve and / or grind the dry porous starch obtained.

[0086] Specific surface area

[0087] When the phrase “comprised between [a first value] and [a second value]” is used in this patent application, it is understood that the boundaries are included in the indicated range.”

[0088] The specific surface area is the surface available for gas or liquid molecules. It includes the external as well as the internal surface of a solid body such as starch granule.

[0089] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average specific surface area, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g.

[0090] In one embodiment, the porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average specific surface area, between 0.4 and 1.2 m2 / g, preferably between 0.5 and 1.0 m2 / g, preferably between 0.6 and 0.9 m2 / g.

[0091] In these embodiments, the specific surface area is measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (noted BJH) model.

[0092] Nitrogen adsorption sorptometry is a technique used in materials science to measure the amount of nitrogen gas adsorbed onto and desorbed from a material's surface at different relative pressures, typically at 77 K. This produces an adsorption isotherm that helps determine surface area, pore volume, and pore size distribution. The Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (BJH) model is employed to analyze the desorption branch of the isotherm, focusing on mesoporous materials (pores 2-50 nm). By integrating the area under the pore size distribution curve, the average pore volume and average surface area can be estimated.

[0093] Average visible pore diameter

[0094] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 to 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns.

[0095] The average visible pore diameter refers to the average value of the diameter of the pores visible on the surface of the porous starch granule, measured using Scanning Electron Microscopy.

[0096] On the basis of the criterion of IUPAC, macropores refer to pores with the hole diameter larger than 50 nm, mesopores represent pores with, the hole diameter between 2 nm and 50 nm, while micropores possess, the hole diameter smaller than 2 nm.

[0097] Hence, according to the criterion of IUPAC, porous starch according to the invention have macropores.

[0098] Average pore volume

[0099] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 7.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.0 and 6.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.50 and 6.50 mm3 / g.

[0100] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.0 and 4.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.50 and 4.00 mm3 / g.

[0101] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average pore volume comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 7.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 6.50 mm3 / g, preferably between 6.00 and 6.50 mm3 / g.

[0102] The average volume is measured by the well-known method of sorptometry by nitrogen adsorption and application of the Barrett, Joyner and Halenda model, herein “BJH” model. It refers to the total void space within the porous starch.

[0103] Water content

[0104] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a water content comprised between 3 and 20%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably between 5 and 18%, preferably between 6.5 and 16.5%, preferably between 6 and 15 %, preferably between 7.5 and 15.5%, preferably between 8 and 15%, preferably between 10 and 13%, and more preferably between 9 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch

[0105] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous waxy corn starch. In this embodiment, the at least one porous waxy corn starch has a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 9 and 11%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0106] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous waxy rice starch. In this embodiment, the at least one porous waxy rice starch has a water content comprised between 8 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 10 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0107] The usual method for measuring the water content of starch is using a moisture analyzer, such as Mettler Toledo Halogen Moisture Analyzer HE73. The starch sample (between 3.5 and 5.0 g) is heated at 130°C, and the moisture loss is recorded when the weight becomes constant.

[0108] Degree of hydrolysis

[0109] In an embodiment, the degree of hydrolysis of said at least one porous starch according to the invention is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 9 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 16%.

[0110] The determination of the degree of hydrolysis is as follows. A refractometer, such as Atago PAL-1 , is used to measure the concentration of soluble sugars in the starch slurry during the enzymatic hydrolysis producing porous starch at different time points, including 0 min, by placing a drop of starch slurry on the cell of the refractometer. The refractometer reading gives a value called “degree Brix”. This value results from the solution's refractive index measured by the refractometer, and it correlates directly to the percentage of dissolved sugar, i.e. soluble sugars, by weight as follows: for a given sample, 1 degree Brix is equal to a sucrose concentration of 1 g per 100 gram of solution. Before the measurement, the refractometer is zeroed using demineralized water. The concentration of soluble sugars is then converted to the degree of hydrolysis in order to control the extent of the enzymatic hydrolysis:

[0111] Degree of hydrolysis att min = 100 x (total liquid weight x concentration of soluble sugars att min) / dry starch weight

[0112] Where:-Total liquid weight can be obtained as the difference between total starch slurry weight and dry starch weight. Dry starch weight is the weight of the raw starch minus its moisture content. This is calculated at tO on the basis of the values of materials engaged into the hydrolysis, and it is then supposed to be almost constant during the hydrolysis.-The concentration of soluble sugars att min is calculated as the difference between the concentration of total solubles at t min and that at 0 min, measured by refractometer, i.e. the difference: degree Brix at t min - degree Brix at 0 min. The reading at 0 min is important as the zero point because there is other soluble materials in the starch slurry that can affect the reading.

[0113] Granulometry

[0114] The porous waxy starch according to the present invention, i.e., the least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch occurs in the form of granules, which are individual, i.e. not agglomerated. The particle size of the porous starch granules may be further reduced by sieving, grinding, homogenization and / or micronization.

[0115] In an embodiment, the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] of the porous starch according to the invention; measured by laser diffraction granulometry, is less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 22 microns.

[0116] In an embodiment, the d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns.

[0117] In an embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 20 microns and,The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 15 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 12 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 10 microns, andThe diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 20 microns, andThe diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 50 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 27 microns.

[0118] According to measurements made by the Applicant or data available publicly, “Starrier” starches from Cargill, which are pregelatinized non-granular starches, have a median particle size d(50) between 100 and 375 microns, and a sample of N-ZORBIT® 2144 from Ingredion, which is made of agglomerated porous starches granules, have a d(10) of 36 microns, a d(50) of 79 microns, and a d(90) of 135 microns.

[0119] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention, is a porous corn starch. In this embodiment, the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3], measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns.

[0120] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention, is a porous corn starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 microns, or preferably between 7 and 9 microns, andThe diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns, or preferably between 12 and 17 microns, or preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns.

[0121] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention, is a porous rice starch. In this embodiment, the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3], measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous rice starch is comprised between 1 and 20 microns, or preferably between 3 and 15, or preferably between 4 and 10 microns, or preferably between 5 and 9 microns.

[0122] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous rice starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous rice starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 20 microns, or preferably between 3 and 15, or preferably between 4 and 10 microns, or preferably between 5 and 9 microns, andThe diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 10 microns, or preferably between 2 and 6 microns, or preferably between 2 and 5 microns, or preferably comprised between 3 and 4 microns, andThe diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 1 and 20 microns, or preferably between 2 and 12 microns, or preferably comprised between 4 and 10 microns, or preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns, andThe diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 6 and 25 microns, or preferably between 8 and 20 microns, or preferably between 10 and 18 microns.

[0123] The volume diameter d(50), or the diameter at 50thpercentile, refers to the median diameter of particles in the particle size distribution. According to the commonly accepted definition, the median diameter corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 50% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter greater than and 50% a diameter smaller than d(50).

[0124] The terms d(10) and d(90), or the diameters at 10thand 90thpercentiles respectively, also refer to parameters in the particle size distribution. D(10) corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sievesuch that 10% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter smaller than d(10), and d(90) corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 90% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter smaller than d(90). The particle size is measured by laser diffraction.

[0125] The usual method of measuring particle size distribution by laser diffraction for a dry powder involves dispersing the powder sample in a controlled flow of air to ensure individual particles are separated. The dispersed particles are then passed through a laser beam, where they scatter the light at various angles depending on their size. The scattered light is detected by a series of photodetectors positioned at different angles. The intensity and pattern of the scattered light are analyzed to calculate the size distribution of the non-spherical particles. The data is processed to produce a particle size distribution curve, typically presented as volume or number percentages across different size ranges. This method is favored for its rapid analysis, wide size range, and ability to handle diverse materials, providing precise and reproducible measurements of particle size distribution in dry powders.

[0126] In an embodiment, the particle size distribution of the porous starch according to the present invention, includes particles with:a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / or a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%.

[0127] Accoding to measruments made by the Applicant, the Starrier product from Cargill and N-Zorbit product from Ingredion, for instance the N-ZORBIT® 2144, comprises at least 70% of particles higher than 40 microns, and at least 30% of particles higher than 100 microns

[0128] Reducing sugar content

[0129] In an embodiment, in opposition to the N-ZORBIT® 2144 product described above and containing at least 10% of reducing sugars, especially glucose, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch. Low reducing sugar contents are preferred to allow the porous starch according to the invention to remain stable overtime against humidity and Maillard coloration reactions as required for cosmetics.

[0130] T o reach the very low level of reducing sugars, the process according to the invention includes a step of collecting the porous starch obtained, for instance by filtration or centrifugation to eliminate the hydrolyzed starch and sugars material , and a washing step to remove free sugars,

[0131] The usual method for measuring reducing sugars in a solution is the method of Bertrand (Bulletin de la Societe Chimique de France, 1906, 35 pp. 1285-1299). Initially, the reducing sugars ina porous starch sample are extracted by soaking the sample in demineralized water, followed by filtration. The starch cake is washed again with demineralized water, and the filtrates are combined and can be concentrated if necessary, such as using a rotary evaporator. When being heated in mixture of cupric sulfate, potassium sodium tartrate, and sodium hydroxide, the reducing sugars reduce the cupric ions to cuprous oxide, which precipitates at the bottom of the flask. The cuprous oxide is then use to reduced ferric sulfate in sulfuric acid, producing ferrous sulfate, which can be quantified by titration using a standardized KMnO solution. The amount of reducing sugars as glucose can be determined based on the volume of KMnC>4.

[0132] Density

[0133] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a bulk density between 0.35 and 0.55 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.5 and 0.7 g / mL.

[0134] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy corn starch, i.e. a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch having a bulk density between 0.45 and 0.55 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.60 and 0.70 g / mL.

[0135] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch, i.e. a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch having a bulk density between 0.35 and 0.45 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.50 and 0.65 g / mL.

[0136] The bulk density is defined as the mass of the many particles of the porous starch divided by the bulk volume. Bulk volume is defined as the total volume the particles occupy, including particle's own volume, inter-particle void volume, and the particles internal pore volume. Bulk density is also sometimes referred to as the “apparent density”.

[0137] Protein content

[0138] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a protein content of less than 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of porous starch, preferably of less than 2 %, more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably about 0.10 to 0.5 % by weight.

[0139] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous waxy corn starch, i.e. a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having less than 2% by weight of protein relative to the total weight of porous starch, or better less than 1% by weight, or less than 0.5% by weight and about 0.10 to 0.25% by weight.

[0140] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch, i.e. a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, having less than 3% by weight of protein relative to the total weight of porous starch, or better less than 2% by weight, or less than 1% by weight and about 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.

[0141] Absorption capacity

[0142] In an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention has a sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9.0 and 9.5 mL / g.

[0143] In an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention has a sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.5 and 9.0 mL / g.

[0144] The sebum and sweat absorption capacity of the solid composition is assessed using a modeling approach with readily available substitutes. In this method, sebum is modelled by olive oil, which is chosen for its close mimicry of the lipid composition and viscosity of human sebum. For sweat simulation, saline water is utilized, as it approximates the ionic content and aqueous nature of human perspiration. These model substances are employed to allow for standardized and reproducible measurements of the absorption capabilities of the composition. The performance of the porous starch according to the invention in absorbing these physiological fluids is effectively evaluated through the use of olive oil for sebum modeling and saline water for sweat modeling. This approach enables the absorption capacities across different formulations to be quantified and compared, thereby facilitating the optimization of the oil and moisture control properties of the product.

[0145] Typically, for sebum absorption, the method is as follows:1. In a mortar put 10g of powder formula.2. Add, using a 1mL pipette, 1mL of olive oil and mix with the pestle.3. Repeat steps 2 until a change of state from a powder to a homogeneous bright paste is observed. This corresponds to the exact amount of oil that the powder can absorb.

[0146] Typically, for sweat absorption, the method is as follows:1. In a mortar put 10g of powder.2. Add, using a 1 mL pipette, 1 mL of saline water and mix with the pestle.3. Repeat steps 2 until a change of state from a powder to a paste is observed. This corresponds to the exact amount of water that the powder can absorb.

[0147] Elastic recovery

[0148] In one embodiment, the elastic recovery of said at least one porous starch according to the invention is less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 12.5%, when a compression of 5 kN is applied.

[0149] In another embodiment, the elastic recovery of said at least one porous starch according to the invention is less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 14.5%, when a compression of 10 kN is applied.

[0150] The elastic recovery corresponds to the percentage (%) of axial expansion measured 24 hours after compaction with a given compression force. Axial expansion means the expansion occurring in the same direction as the direction of the compaction.

[0151] The usual method for measuring the elastic recovery of a starch powder involves a mechanical testing process, typically using a compression test. In this method, a known quantity of starch powder is first compacted into a cylindrical or disc-shaped pellet using a controlled force in a compression testing machine. After the initial compression with the specified compression force, the force is released, and the pellet is allowed to recover for 24 hours. The height or thickness of the pellet HO is measured immediately after compression and again after the recovery period of 24 hours, noted H24. The elastic recovery is calculated as the percentage of the initial compression height that the pellet regains during the recovery period, according to the formula: 100 * (H24 - HO) I HO.

[0152] This measurement provides insight into the material's ability to keep its form after compaction, reflecting its elasticity and resilience. A low elastic recovery, for example below 15%, or 10%, or even 5%, corresponds to a material able to keep its compacted shape, whereas a high elastic recovery, for example higher than 20% or 25 %, means a material that recovers its original shape as before compaction.

[0153] Porous waxy rice starch

[0154] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g.

[0155] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, and / orthe diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns, and / ora reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0156] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, and / orthe characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:the diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 microns, most preferably comprised between 3 and 4 microns,The diameter d(50) is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(90) is of less than 120 microns, preferably of less than 50 microns, preferably is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 6 and 25 microns, or preferably between 8 and 20 microns, most preferably between 10 and 18 microns, and / ora reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / ora water content comprised between 6 and 15%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0157] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, and / orthe characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:the diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 microns, most preferably comprised between 3 and 4 microns,The diameter d(50) is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(90) is of less than 120 microns, preferably of less than 50 microns, preferably is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 6 and 25 microns, or preferably between 8 and 20 microns, most preferably between 10 and 18 microns, and / ora reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / ora degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 16%, and / ora sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9 and 9.5 mL / g, and / ora sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g and / oran elastic recovery of less than 15.0%, preferably less than 14.5%, when a compression of 10kN is applied and / oran elastic recovery of less than 12.5%, preferably of less than 12.0 %, when a compression of 5kN is applied.

[0158] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0159] Porous waxy corn starch

[0160] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0161] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3], measured by laser diffraction granulometry, comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns.

[0162] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns,The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, The diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns.

[0163] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein:the particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%.

[0164] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of around 13%.

[0165] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0166] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1.5% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0167] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has an average specific surface area, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 rrr7g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g.

[0168] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g.

[0169] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a water solubility of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%. Said solubility is measured by determining the percentage of porous starch which solubilizes in water at 25°C.

[0170] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % preferably greater than 99% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has:a specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 rrr7g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / ora average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, and / ora water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and / ora degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and / orthe characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and / orThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 microns, or preferably between 8 and 9 microns, and / orThe diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns, or preferably between 12 and 16 microns, or preferably between 13 and 15 microns, and / orThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, and / ora water solubility of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, and / ora sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9 and 9.5 mL / g, and / ora sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g, and / oran elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15%, when a compression of 10kN is applied and / oran elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.

[0171] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein:The characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, and / orThe degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%, and / orThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or The reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / orThe water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, and / orThe average specific surface area is of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g, and / orThe sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption is comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g,

[0172] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%.

[0173] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein:The characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, andThe diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1.5 % by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0174] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and The water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0175] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and The water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and The degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%.

[0176] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and The water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and The degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%, andThe average specific surface area is of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g.

[0177] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, morepreferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1 %, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and The water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and The degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%, andThe average specific surface area is of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g, and, andThe sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption is comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g.

[0178] Amount

[0179] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 1 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 8 to 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0180] In an embodiment, when it concerns liquid compositions, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0181] In another embodiment, when it concerns emulsions, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0182] In another embodiment, when it concerns water-in-oil emulsions, such as foundation, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0183] In another embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions, such as primer, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 3 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0184] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a lipstick, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0185] Mixtures of porous starches

[0186] The composition according to the present invention may comprise a single porous starch or a mixture of at least two porous starches as previously described, said starches may be of one botanical origin only, or may be from at least different botanical origins.

[0187] Fatty ingredients

[0188] Fatty ingredients are lipophilic substances used in cosmetic formulations to provide emollient properties, enhance moisturization, and improve skin conditioning. These ingredients can include oils, butters, and waxes, which are derived from plant, animal, or synthetic sources. Fatty ingredients contribute to the texture, spreadability, and sensory attributes of cosmetic products, offering benefits such as skin softening, protection, and nourishment.

[0189] In an embodiment, the at least one fatty ingredient is selected among wax, butter and oil, and mixture thereof.

[0190] Mass Ratio Porous starch / Fatty Ingredients

[0191] In the context of the present invention, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is defined as the ratio of the mass by weight of the at least one porous starch to the mass by weight of fatty ingredients, wherein the mass by weight of fatty ingredients is understood as the sum of the masses by weight of all fatty ingredients such as oils, waxes, and butters contained in the composition for cosmetic products.

[0192] In an embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

[0193] In some embodiments, the composition for cosmetic products comprises at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient, wherein the porous starch is dispersed in a fatty phase formed by the at least one fatty ingredient. Depending on the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch to fatty ingredients, the composition for cosmetic products may be in the form of a fluid or semi-fluid dispersion, or may alternatively be in the form of a non-free-flowing particulate composition, for example a cohesive or tacky particulate composition.

[0194] Accordingly, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch to fatty ingredients may vary depending on the intended application and, in particular, depending on whether the composition for cosmetic products is intended for incorporation into a final cosmetic product that can be a liquid composition, an emulsion such as water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion or solid composition.

[0195] In an embodiment, when it concerns liquid compositions, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 2.10, preferably from 0.40 to 2.10, more preferably from 0.40 to 1.60.

[0196] In an embodiment, when it concerns emulsions, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 2.10, preferably from 0.40 to 2.10, more preferably from 0.40 to 1.60.

[0197] In an embodiment, when it concerns water-in-oil emulsions, such as foundation, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.25 to 0.75.

[0198] In an embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions, such as primers, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 1.50 to 2.50.

[0199] In an embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions such as mascaras, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch I fatty ingredients is from 0.40 to 1.20.

[0200] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a lipstick, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.010 to 0.200, or from 0.015 to 0.150, or from 0.020 to 0.120, or from 0.025 to 0.075.f0201l Wax

[0202] By “wax” is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), having a reversible solid / liquid state change, either by melting, glass transition, or by softening between 40°C and 120°C.Waxes provide emollient properties to cosmetic formulations, contributing to skin conditioning and moisturization.

[0203] In an embodiment, the wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Paraffin Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Wax, Soy Wax, Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Jojoba Wax (Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Berry Wax (Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax), Myrica Fruit Wax (Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax), Palm Wax (Elaeis Guineensis), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene Wax, Montan Wax, Bayberry Wax (Myrica Pubescens Fruit Wax), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Meadowfoam Seed Oil Wax (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Tallow (Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides), Ozokerite Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax), Synthetic Beeswax, Montan Acid Wax, Ceramide Wax, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Ceresin Wax, Fischer-Tropsch Wax, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Soy Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lactyl Lactate, Stearyl Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Ester, C10-18 Triglycerides, Poly hydroxystearic Acid, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof.

[0204] In a preferred embodiment, wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (CastorWax), Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0205] In an embodiment, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 0 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0206] In an embodiment, when it concerns liquid compositions, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0207] In another embodiment, when it concerns emulsions, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.25 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0208] In another embodiment, when it concerns water-in-oil emulsions, such as foundation, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0209] In another embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions, such as primers, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0210] In an embodiment, when it concerns water-based emulsions such as mascaras, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0211] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a lipstick, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.F02121 Butter

[0213] By “butter” is meant a lipophilic compound of plant or animal origin, primarily composed of triglycerides, semi-solid at room temperature (25°C), with a melting point typically between 30°C and 45°C. Butters are characterized by a creamy, malleable texture and rich emollient properties, providing intense moisturization and skin conditioning benefits in cosmetic applications.

[0214] The melting point can be measured by any technique known to those skilled in the art. Typically, this can be done by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

[0215] In an embodiment, butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), Cupuacu Butter (Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), lllipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Tucuma Butter (Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter), Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta Seed Butter), Aloe Butter (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Hemp Seed Butter (Cannabis Sativa Seed Butter), Olive Butter (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Almond Butter (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Macadamia Butter (Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Soy Butter (Glycine Soja Oil and Hydrogenated Soybean Oil), Pistachio Butter (Pistacia Vera Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Pumpkin Seed Butter (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Watermelon Seed Butter (Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Green Tea Butter (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Lavender Butter (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Rose Butter (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Vanilla Butter (Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and mixtures thereof.

[0216] In a preferred embodiment, butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), illipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), JojobaButter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and mixtures thereof.

[0217] In an embodiment, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 0 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0218] In an embodiment, when it concerns liquid compositions, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0219] In another embodiment, when it concerns emulsions, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0220] In another embodiment, when it concerns water-in-oil emulsions, such as foundation, the cosmetic product does not comprise any butter.

[0221] In another embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions, such as primers or mascaras, the cosmetic product does not comprise any butter.

[0222] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a lipstick, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0223] Oil

[0224] By 'oil' is meant a lipophilic compound, liquid at room temperature (25°C), primarily composed of triglycerides or esters, with varying degrees of viscosity, that does not undergo phase transition to solid state under normal atmospheric pressure until cooled below 25°C. Oils deliver immediate and penetrating emollient effects.

[0225] In an embodiment, oil is selected among natural oils such as plant oils, essential oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils and mixtures thereof.

[0226] Natural oils:

[0227] Natural oils are derived from various parts of plants, including seeds, nuts, and fruits.

[0228] Natural oils can be chosen among Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima Oil), Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), Coconut Oil (Cocos Nucifera Oil), Olive Oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil), Grapeseed Oil (Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Rosehip Oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil), Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera Biennis Oil), Marula Oil (Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil), Macadamia Oil (Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil), Hemp Seed Oil (Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil), Sea Buckthorn Oil(Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil), Camellia Oil (Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), Pomegranate Seed Oil (Punica Granatum Seed Oil), Safflower Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), Baobab Oil (Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil), Moringa Oil (Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil), Meadowfoam Seed Oil (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Neem Oil (Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil), Tamanu Oil (Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil), Black Cumin Seed Oil (Nigella Sativa Seed Oil), and Kukui Nut Oil (Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil), and mixtures thereof.

[0229] In an embodiment, natural oils are selected from saturated, monoinsaturated, or polyinsaturated oils obtained from plants, fish, krills, animals, or by industrial fermentation, such as omega-3 oils or omega-6 oils, or mixtures thereof. Examples of such oils as squalane, squalene, EPA, DHA or ARA oils.

[0230] Mineral oils:

[0231] Mineral oils are derived from petroleum and are highly refined for cosmetic use.

[0232] Common examples of mineral-derived ingredients used in cosmetic formulations include Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Paraffin Oil, and Polyisobutene

[0233] Synthetic oils:

[0234] Synthetic oils can be silicone oils, ester oils or hydrocarbon oils.

[0235] Silicone oils can be chosen among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Cyclopentasiloxane (Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Triethylhexanoin, and PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Lauryl Lactate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene, Methyl Trimethicone, Dimethiconol, Alkyl Benzoate (and) Propanediol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Triglyceride (Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic), Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0236] In a preferred embodiment, oil is selected among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate,Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene and mixtures thereof.

[0237] In an embodiment, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 0 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0238] In an embodiment, when it concerns liquid compositions, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 0.5 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0239] In another embodiment, when it concerns emulsions, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 0.5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 27% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0240] In another embodiment, when it concerns water-in-oil emulsions, such as foundation, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0241] In another embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions, such as primer, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0242] In another embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions such as mascaras, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product

[0243] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a lipstick, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 25 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0244] In an embodiment, fatty ingredients are selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (CastorWax), Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), illipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate,Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene and mixtures thereof.

[0245] Cosmetic product

[0246] As used herein, a "cosmetic product" refers to a formulation designed for application to the human body, particularly the skin or hair, for the purpose of cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. Such compositions are intended to be physiologically acceptable, meaning they are compatible with the skin and / or its integuments and the hair, have a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and do not cause any unacceptable discomfort (such as stinging or tautness) that would discourage the consumer from using the product.

[0247] In the context of this invention, a "cosmetic product" comprises at least a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, i.e. a composition comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient. These cosmetic products can be in various forms, such as cleansing products, hair care products, oral care products, sun care products, skin care products, make-up products, feminine care products, nail care products, shaving and hair removal products, men’s grooming products, bath and shower products, deodorants and antiperspirants, eye care products and / or hygiene products.

[0248] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 100% of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic product. In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a liquid product comprising from 0.1 to 60 % of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention. In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a solid product comprising from 60 to 100 % of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention.

[0249] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 1 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 2 to 25 % by weight, preferably from 2 to 35% by weight, preferably from 3 to 24% by weight;at least one oil in an amount from 0 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 70% by weight;at least one wax in an amount from 0 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight; at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight; andwater in an amount from Oto 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 85% by weight, preferably from 0 to 81 % by weight.

[0250] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

[0251] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a liquid cosmetic product. In such an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 75 % of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, preferably from 0.5 to 70%, preferably from 1 to 65 %, preferably from 3 to 60 %, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic product.

[0252] In an embodiment, when it concerns liquid compositions, the cosmetic product comprises: at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight;at least one oil in an amount from 0.5 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight; at least one wax in an amount from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight; at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 10% by weight; andwater in an amount from 25 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 30 to 85% by weight, preferably from 37 to 81% by weight.

[0253] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 2.10, preferably from 0.40 to 2.10, more preferably from 0.40 to 1.60.

[0254] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is chosen from oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions, water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, multiple emulsions (W / O / W and O / W / O), microemulsions, nanoemulsions, Pickering emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, micellar systems, hydroalcoholic solutions, biphase systems and silicone-in-water emulsions.

[0255] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic product is chosen among emulsions and preferably among oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions and water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions.

[0256] In an embodiment, when it concerns emulsions, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the totalweight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 8 to 15% by weight;at least one oil in an amount from 0.5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1.5 to 27% by weight; at least one wax in an amount from 0.1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.25 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 9% by weight; at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight; and water in an amount from 25 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 30 to 85% by weight, preferably from 37 to 81% by weight.

[0257] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 2.10, preferably from 0.40 to 2.10, more preferably from 0.40 to 1.60.

[0258] In an embodiment, when it concerns water-in-oil emulsions, such as foundation, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise any butter;water in an amount from 32 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0259] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.25 to 0.75.

[0260] In an embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions, such as primers, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 3 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise any butter;water in an amount from 75 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0261] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 1.50 to 2.50.

[0262] In an embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions such as mascaras, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise any butter;water in an amount from 56 to 66% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0263] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.40 to 1.20.

[0264] In all these previous described embodiments (liquid compositions), the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content preferably greater than 99 %.

[0265] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a solid cosmetic product. In such an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises from 90 to 100 % of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, preferably from 95 to 100 %, preferably from 97 to 100 %, preferably from 98 to 100 %, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic product.

[0266] “Solid cosmetic product” means the cosmetic product is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). “Solid” means that the cosmetic product has a shape of its own, which is not, or at least never exactly, the shape of the container that holds it. “Solid” encompasses the two possible alternatives of the solid state, which are “compact solid” and “divided solid”. The “compact solid” does not flow under its own weight, and it conserves its form during storage. The “divided solid” is constituted of individual particles having their own individual shapes, but the ensemble made up of the particles has no shape and can flow. In the context of the present invention, the solid cosmetic product refers specifically to “compact solid” compositions such as balms, sticks and lipsticks. This compact solid cosmetic product is essentially anhydrous, although it may contain up to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid cosmetic product, of water.

[0267] In an embodiment, the solid cosmetic product is chosen from balms, sticks, solid bars, solidified emulsions, concealers and bases, waterproof mascaras, lipstick, styling products, care products, contouring and modeling products and pencils.

[0268] These solid cosmetic products can be obtained by any technique known to those skilled in the art, particularly through pouring or extrusion processes. The manufacturing method may be selected according to the desired product characteristics, formulation requirements, and production scale.

[0269] Balms are soft, oil-based formulations without water that melt upon contact with skin, providing moisturizing and protective benefits.

[0270] Balms can be selected among lip balms, cleansing balms, body balms, healing balms, cuticle balms, multi-purpose balms, skin treatment balms, after-sun balms, baby balms, eye balms, hand balms, foot balms, hair styling balms, beard balms, massage balms, perfume balms, cooling balms, exfoliating balms, highlighting balms, primer balms, anti-aging balms, scar treatment balms, sunscreen balms, hair smoothing balms, nail treatment balms, makeup removing balms, wound healing balms, hair texturizing balms, anti-redness balms.

[0271] Sticks are solid formulations cast in tubular or cylindrical packaging allowing for direct application to skin. Maintain their shape at room temperature but soften slightly upon contact with skin for easy transfer of product.

[0272] Sticks can be chosen among deodorant sticks, foundation sticks, concealer sticks, contour sticks, highlighter sticks, blush sticks, eyeshadow sticks, lip color sticks, perfume sticks, sunscreen sticks, cooling sticks, facial cleansing sticks, exfoliating sticks, hair color sticks, setting sticks, primersticks, mask sticks, treatment sticks, anti-blemish sticks, moisturizing sticks, makeup remover sticks, brow filler sticks, hair styling sticks, insect repellent sticks, lip scrub sticks, after-shave sticks, scar treatment sticks, facial oil control sticks, pore minimizing sticks, wrinkle treatment sticks, mattifying sticks, lip plumping sticks, hair fragrance sticks, nail treatment sticks.

[0273] Solid bars are dense, compact formulations typically rectangular in shape, designed to be used with water or friction. Contain minimal packaging and often utilize surfactants orcleansing agents.

[0274] Solid bars can be chosen among soap bars, syndet bars, cleansing bars, shampoo bars, conditioner bars, body wash bars, facial cleansing bars, exfoliating bars, beard wash bars, feminine hygiene bars.

[0275] Solidified emulsions are water-in-oil or oil-in-water mixtures that have been stabilized and solidified through specific structuring agents. Provide the benefits of creams in a solid format.

[0276] Solidified emulsions can be chosen among solid moisturizers, solid foundations, solid serums, solid night creams, solid day creams, solid eye creams, solid primers, solid sunscreens, solid hand creams, solid body lotions, solid foot creams, solid hair treatments, solid masks, solid after-shave, solid BB creams, solid CC creams, solid anti-aging treatments, solid makeup removers, solid body butters, solid self-tanners, solid face oils, solid highlighting creams, solid concealers, solid lip treatments, solid anti-cellulite treatments, solid scar treatments, solid skin-firming creams, solid dark spot treatments, solid hair serum bars.

[0277] Concealers and bases are chosen among solid concealer, solid under-eye concealer, solid color corrector, solid color corrector, solid makeup base, solid foundation

[0278] Pencils are extruded formulations encased in wood or plastic casings, designed for precise application. Combine waxes, oils, and pigments to create varying degrees of hardness and payoff.

[0279] Pencils are chosen among lip pencils, eye pencils, eyebrow pencils, concealer pencils, highlighter pencils, contour pencils, corrector pencils, kohl pencils, waterproof pencils, anti-blemish pencils, hair root touch-up pencils, sun protection pencils, primer pencils and matte finish pencils.

[0280] Mascaras and lash products can be chosen among solid waterproof mascara.

[0281] Lipsticks, such as solid lipstick.

[0282] Styling products, such as solid styling pomade, solid styling gum, solid dry shampoo, solid hair dye.

[0283] Care products, such as solid deodorant, solid sunscreen, solid perfume, solid aftershave, solid shaving cream, solid self-tanner, solid serum, solid moisturizer, solid oil, solid anti-acne treatment, solid eye contour care, solid night cream, solid sleeping mask, solid anti-dandruff treatment, solid healing care, solid hair mask.

[0284] Contouring and modeling products, such as solid contouring product, solid mattifier, solid makeup fixer.

[0285] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a lipstick, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 25 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;

[0286] The solid composition does not comprise water.

[0287] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.025 to 0.075.

[0288] In this embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content preferably greater than 99 %.

[0289] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product consists essentially of the composition for products according to the invention.

[0290] “Essentially” means that the cosmetic product contains the composition for cosmetic products according to the invention as its main or primary component, allowing for minor additional ingredients, such as dyes, pigments, perfumes or preservatives, or impurities that do not materially affect the nature of the product. It implies that while the product may contain small amounts of other substances, the composition according to the invention constitutes the fundamental and predominant part of the product. Those minor additional ingredients may be present in the cosmetic product at a weight content lower than 5 % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, or lower than 4%, or lower than 3%, or lower than 2%, or lower than 1 %, or lower than 0.5%, or lower than 0.25%.

[0291] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product consists of the composition for cosmetic products according to the invention.

[0292] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises at least a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, i.e. a composition comprising at least one porous starch havingan amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient, and at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient.

[0293] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises further other ingredients chosen from fillers, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0294] In an embodiment, the at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient is chosen from fillers, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0295] Water

[0296] In an embodiment, water is present in an amount from 0 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 85% by weight, preferably from 0 to 81% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0297] In an embodiment, when it concerns liquid compositions, water is present in an amount from 25 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 30 to 85% by weight, preferably from 37 to 81% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0298] In another embodiment, when it concerns emulsions, water is present in an amount from 25 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 30 to 85% by weight, preferably from 37 to 81% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0299] In another embodiment, when it concerns water-in-oil emulsions, such as foundation, water is present in an amount from 32 to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0300] In another embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions, such as primer, water is present in an amount from 75 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0301] In another embodiment, when it concerns oil-in-water emulsions such as mascaras, water is present in an amount from 56 to 66% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0302] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a lipstick, water is present in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the solid composition does not comprise water.

[0303] Use

[0304] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentiallygreater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a mattifying agent of a cosmetic product.

[0305] A mattifying agent is a cosmetic ingredient that creates a matte appearance in cosmetic products, in particular in make-up product. It reduces shine and produces a non-glossy finish in the final product. This type of mattifying agent works directly on the product's appearance rather than mattifying the skin by absorbing sebum or controlling oil production. It gives cosmetic products an inherent non-reflective quality rather than a shiny or glossy look.

[0306] A mattifying agent is a cosmetic ingredient that, in hair care products, reduces the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance that may result from the presence of fatty ingredients in the final product. In particular, the porous waxy starch according to the invention acts as a mattifying agent in haircare products by enabling the incorporation of fatty ingredients while limiting the tendency of such products to leave the hair looking greasy, oily, flat, or separated into stuck-together strands after application. This type of mattifying agent works through the appearance and cosmetic effect of the product on the hair, rather than through sebum absorption or control of oil production by the scalp. It gives hair care products containing fatty ingredients the ability to preserve a lighter, fuller, and more voluminous appearance of the hair, and in some embodiments to increase hair volume and / or reduce hair frizz, rather than producing an oily, heavy, or flattened look.

[0307] In an embodiment, the invention relates to the use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch as an agent conferring a matte finish to cosmetic products.

[0308] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as an emollient-mattifying complex or an emollient-mattifying system.

[0309] An “emollient-mattifying complex” or an “emollient-mattifying system” is a cosmetic ingredient system that combines a mattifying agent (the waxy porous starch according to the invention i.e. a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch) with fatty ingredients. This complex delivers dual functionality by providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits to the skin while simultaneously creating a matte appearance to the cosmetic composition and by providing care benefits associated with fatty ingredients to the hair in hair care products while simultaneously reducing the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance that such fatty ingredients may otherwise impart to the hair, thereby preserving a lighter, fuller, and more voluminous appearance of the hair.

[0310] As used herein, the term “emollient” refers broadly to a property or effect capable of improving the feel and appearance of keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, eyelashes, or hair, by providing one or more of softness, smoothness, suppleness, flexibility, comfort, conditioning, lubrication, reduced roughness, reduced dryness sensation, reduced tightness sensation, improved spreadability, and improved gliding during application. In particular, in the context of hair care products, an emollient effect may result from the presence of one or more fatty ingredients and may be reflected by hair that feels softer, smoother, more supple, more conditioned, and easier to manage after application. In some embodiments, an emollient effect may be perceived as a softer, more cushioned, less dry, less powdery, or more comfortable sensory feel after application. The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollient effect and a matte finish to cosmetic products.

[0311] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients as an agent conferring emollient properties and a non-glossy finish to cosmetic products.

[0312] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients for the preparation of cosmetic products exhibiting emollient properties and a matte visual aspect to cosmetic products.

[0313] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients as an agent conferring emollient properties and a matte finish to cosmetic products.

[0314] Use for increasing volume of hair and / or controlling or reducing hair frizz

[0315] For the avoidance of doubt, in the ingredient systems described herein, the emollient effect is primarily associated with the presence of one or more fatty ingredients, whereas the porous waxy starch according to the invention acts as the mattifying agent. In certain hair care embodiments, the mattifying effect provided by the porous waxy starch may further be associated with an increase in hair volume and / or a control or reduction of hair frizz. Accordingly, the expressions “emollient-volume complex,” “emollient-anti-frizz complex,” and “emollient-volume-anti-frizz complex”, and their equivalent “systems” designations, are used as descriptive designations for ingredient systemscomprising the porous waxy starch together with one or more fatty ingredients, and do not imply that the porous waxy starch itself is the source of the emollient effect.

[0316] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a volume and / or anti-frizz or “frizz control” agent in a cosmetic product, in particular a hair care product.

[0317] A volume agent is a cosmetic ingredient that increases the overall perceived body, fullness and volume of the hair ensemble.

[0318] An “anti-frizz” or “frizz-control” agent is a cosmetic ingredient that maintains the alignment of hair fiber and that prevents or reduce the disordered protruding of fibers under varying humidity conditions.

[0319] In an embodiment, the invention relates to the use of at least one porous starch having content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch as an agent conferring volume to hair, and / or controlling or reducing hair frizz.

[0320] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as an emollientvolume complex, or as a emollient-anti-frizz complex, or as an emollient-volume-anti-frizz complex.

[0321] An “emollient-volume complex” or “emollient-volume system” is a cosmetic ingredient system that combines a volume agent (the waxy porous starch according to the invention) with fatty ingredients. This complex delivers dual functionality by providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits to the hair while simultaneously increasing the volume of hair. More specifically, an “emollientvolume complex” is a cosmetic ingredient system comprising the porous waxy starch according to the invention and one or more fatty ingredients, wherein the one or more fatty ingredients provide emollient and care benefits and the porous waxy starch acts as a mattifying agent and also as a volume agent in a hair care product. In some embodiments, this complex enables the incorporation of one or more fatty ingredients into a haircare product while increasing the volume or perceived fullness of the hair and while limiting the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance that such fatty ingredients may otherwise impart to the hair.

[0322] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollienteffect and a volume effect to the hair, preferably associated with a mattifying effect of the porous starch according to the invention.

[0323] An “emollient-anti-frizz complex” or “emollient-anti-frizz system” is a cosmetic ingredient system that combines an anti-frizz agent (the waxy porous starch according to the invention) with fatty ingredients. This complex delivers dual functionality by providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits to the hair while simultaneously controlling or reducing hair frizz. More specifically, an “emollient-anti-frizz complex” is a cosmetic ingredient system comprising the porous waxy starch according to the invention and one or more fatty ingredients, wherein the one or more fatty ingredients provide emollient and care benefits and the porous waxy starch acts as a mattifying agent and also as an anti-frizz agent in a hair care product. In some embodiments, this complex enables the incorporation of one or more fatty ingredients into a haircare product while controlling or reducing hair frizz and while limiting the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance that such fatty ingredients may otherwise impart to the hair.

[0324] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollient effect and a control or reduction effect of hair frizz, preferably associated with a mattifying effect of the porous starch according to the invention..

[0325] An “emollient-volume-anti-frizz complex” or “emollient-volume-anti-frizz system” is a cosmetic ingredient system that combines a volume and anti-frizz agent (the waxy porous starch according to the invention) with fatty ingredients. This complex delivers dual functionality by providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits to the hair while simultaneously increasing the volume of hair and controlling or reducing hair frizz. More specifically, an “emollient-volume-anti-frizz complex” is a cosmetic ingredient system comprising the porous waxy starch according to the invention and one or more fatty ingredients, wherein the one or more fatty ingredients provide emollient and care benefits and the porous waxy starch acts as a mattifying agent, and also, as a volume agent, and as an anti-frizz agent in a hair care product. In some embodiments, this complex enables the incorporation of one or more fatty ingredients into a haircare product while increasing hair volume, controlling or reducing hair frizz, and while limiting the undesirable greasy, oily, and heavy appearance that such fatty ingredients may otherwise impart to the hair.

[0326] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollient effect and a volume and anti-frizz or frizz-control effect to hair, preferably associated with a mattifying effect of the porous starch according to the invention.

[0327] All the previous described embodiments are encompassed by these aspects.

[0328] Examples

[0329] In the following examples, the emollient effect is associated primarily with the one or more fatty ingredients, whereas the porous waxy starch acts as the mattifying agent.

[0330] Throughout examples 1 to 3, three compositions were tested each time to highlight the effect of a porous waxy starch. In all cases, there was a placebo formula, a formula with a comparative ingredient: a native starch, and a formula with a porous waxy starch. It should be emphasized that the focus of these studies was on the mattifying properties of the porous waxy starch on the final cosmetic formula itself, not on its effect on the skin.

[0331] The comparative ingredient is a native corn starch, not waxy (amylopectin content comprised between 72 and 76% relative to the total weight of the starch) nor porous. The ingredient “Beaute by Roquette® ST 005” (named BbR ST 005 in the following examples) was used. The Caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption is of 65 mL / 100g.

[0332] The porous waxy corn starch used in the following examples is the ingredient “Beaute by Roquette® ST 305” (named BbR ST 305 in the following examples). Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 possesses the following characteristics:

[0333] [Table 1]BbR ST 005 BbR ST 305 Amylopectin content (%wt) 72-76 > 99Caprylic / capric triglycerides absorption 65 mL / 100g 70 mL / 100gd[4,3] 15.8 pm 13.7 pmd(10) 8.21 pm 7,38 pmd(50) 14.7 pm 15,85 pmd(90) 25.3 pm 24,79 pmParticles with a diameter > 40 microns 0.28 % <0.1%Particles with a diameter > 100 microns 0 % 0 %Hydrolysis degree 0 % 13 %Water content 12.5 %wt 9,5 %wtReducing sugars < 0.2 % 1,1 % wtAverage specific surface area by BET (BJH 0,03 m2 / g 0,66 m2 / gmodel)

[0334] Wt means relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0335] In hair care compositions as exemplified at examples 4 to 8, such mattifying effect may be reflected by a reduction in the greasy, oily, heavy, or flattened appearance that the one or more fatty ingredients might otherwise impart to the hair, and, typically, by an increase in hair volume and / or a control or reduction of hair frizz.

[0336] Example 1 : Mattifying effect Results in a water-in-oil emulsion (foundation)

[0337] Results of a study on the mattifying effect of porous waxy corn starch in a water-in-oil emulsion are presented. The analysis was conducted to determine how porous waxy starch enhances the matte appearance of the water-in-oil emulsion when compared to both a placebo and to a comparative ingredient, a native starch (not porous and not waxy) in the same water-in-oil emulsion.

[0338] Formulations tested

[0339] Three different water-in-oil emulsion formulations were tested in this study, varying only in their phase C composition:

[0340] Placebo Formula (MU-059-005): No active ingredient was included in phase C. The 15% relative to the total weight of the composition of native starch or porous waxy starch has been distributed proportionally across all other ingredients to reach 100%. The proportions are indicated in the "Placebo W / W" column of the Table 2 hereinafter.

[0341] Comparative Formula (MU-059-004): The comparative ingredient (a native corn starch named Beaute by Roquette® ST 005, hereafter “BbR ST 005” available from Roquette Freres) was included in phase C. The native corn starch is not porous nor waxy.

[0342] Test Formula (MU-059-003): A porous waxy corn starch named Beaute by Roquette® ST 305, hereafter “BbR ST 305”, from Roquette Freres, was included in phase C.

[0343] The formulation is described in the following table:

[0344] [Table 2]Placebo INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER %W / W %W / WCetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Microcare siliconeThor 6.31 5.37 Dimethicone E1016Microcare SiliconeCetyl Dimethicone Thor 2.00 1.70 PHASE M1600A KosterCera Alba Beeswax white 0.74 0.63Keuneunhydrogenated castor oil Cutina HR Flakes BASF 0.32 0.27 Caprylyl Methicone Silsoft 034 Momentive 12.33 10.46Isoamyl Cocoate Oxismooth CO Brenntag 10.55 8.95 Aqua Demineralized water NA 44.12 37.50 Beaute by Roquette®Dextrin Roquette 5.90 5.00DE 006PHASESodium chloride NaCL Chemlab 0.64 0.54 BPanthenol, PropyleneD-Panthenol 50 P BASF 6.34 5.37 GlycolPhenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol Jan Dekker 0.33 0.27 PHASEObject of the comparative test (BbR ST 305 or BbR ST 005) 0 15.00 CCl 77492, Hydrogenated Unipure Yellow LC 182Sensient 1.32 1.12 Lecithin HLCCl 77491, Cl 77499, Unipure Red LC 381Sensient 0.42 0.40 PHASE Hydrogenated Lecithin HLCD Cl 77499, Hydrogenated Unipure Black LC 989Sensient 0.21 0.22 Lecithin HLCCI77891, Hydrogenated Unipure White LC 981Sensient 8.47 7.20 Lecithin HLC

[0345] Preparation Method

[0346] All three formulations were prepared following this standardized protocol:1 / Phase A was prepared and heated at 80°C2 / Phase B was heated at 50°C3 / Phase B was added to phase A under stirring4 / Phase C, if any, was added until a homogeneous aspect was achieved and then cooled down 5 / Phase D was added under stirring until a homogeneous aspect was achieved

[0347] The key difference between the three formulations is solely the composition of phase C, allowing to directly assess the mattifying efficacy of porous waxy corn starch compared to both the placebo and the comparative ingredient.

[0348] Drawdown card protocol to evaluate mattifying effect1 / Equilibrate sample at room temperature and put required quantity (around 2 mL; to adapt (excess quantity goes in overflow without disturbing film formation) on drawdown card Byko-Chart 2810 from BYK (= clear coated paint test chart black and white 140x254 mm).2 / Start the automatic film applicator “BYK drive 2122” from BYK with following settings: square applicator, speed 10 mm / s and applicator gap at 4 miles (=100 microns).3 / Let dry for 5 minutes (partial drying) at20°C + / -5°C and Relative Humidity (RH) 55% + / -10% 4 / Measures optical properties of the film (L*c*h*, Opacity, Gloss at 60°) with a spectra colorimeter Spectro2guide from BYK; Calculate average values from 3 measures for each drawdown card.5 / Let dry 24h (to ensure complete drying) at 20°C + / -5°C and RH 55% + / -10%.6 / Measures optical properties of the film (L*c*h*, Opacity, Gloss at 60°) with a spectra colorimeter Spectro2guide from BYK; Calculate average values from 3 measures for each drawdown card.

[0349] The mattifying effect was evaluated through several optical parameters:

[0350] L*: A measure of lightness in the CIELAB color space. Higher L* values indicate a lighter appearance, which can be associated with a more matte finish.

[0351] c*: Chroma value in the LCH color space, which represents color saturation or intensity. Lower chroma values can be indicative of a more matte appearance.

[0352] h*: Hue angle in the LCH color space, representing the dominant color wavelength. This parameter helps in understanding any color shifts that might occur with different mattifying agents.

[0353] Opacity: The degree to which light is prevented from passing through the product. Higher opacity can contribute to a more matte appearance.

[0354] Gloss at 60°: A measure of specular reflection when light hits the product at a 60-degree angle. Lower shine values directly correspond to a more matte finish. This is a standard measurement angle used in the cosmetic industry for assessing the level of gloss / shine.

[0355] Optical properties are evaluated on white part of the chart, except opacity which is the black / white ratio.

[0356] These parameters were measured instrumentally to objectively quantify the mattifying effect of each formulation on the final product appearance. Measurements were taken initially and after 24 hours of drying time.

[0357] The results are presented in the following tables 3 (initial measurements) and 4 (Measurements After 24 Hours of Drying).

[0358] [Table 3] Initial MeasurementsFormula BackgroundL* c* h* Opacity % Gloss 60°Average Average Average Average Average Placebo Black 59,12 26,22 58,03 98,9 75,8 MU-059-005White 59,88 27,69 56,89 75,9ST 005 Black 57,6 25,00 56,85 95,54 38,2 MU-059-004 White 58,71 27,26 55,07 43,9 ST 305 Black 56,54 24,00 56,95 93,66 6,1 MU-059-003 White 57,91 27,45 54,45 5,8

[0359] [Table 4] Measurements After 24 Hours of DryingFormula BackgroundL* c* h* Opacity % Gloss 60°Average Average Average Average Average Placebo Black 57,89 24,55 58,18 96.47 37,6 MU-059-005White 58,74 26,82 55,99 44,7ST 005 Black 56,69 21,36 55,57 94.0 2,4 MU-059-004 White 58,13 25,01 52,59 2,3 ST 305 Black 55,64 20,95 55,84 93.43 1,3 MU-059-003 White 57,41 26,32 52,44 5,8

[0360] Gloss at 60°

[0361] The most notable difference is observed in the gloss measurements at 60°:

[0362] Initial Measurements: Formula MU-059-003 containing porous waxy corn starch exhibited substantially lower gloss values (6.1 on black background and 5.8 on white background) compared to both the placebo (75.8 and 75.9) and the comparative ingredient (38.2 and 43.9).

[0363] After 24 Hours: After the drying period, formula MU-059-003 containing porous waxy corn starch demonstrated exceptional mattifying performance with the lowest gloss values (1.3 on black and 5.8 on white). The formula MU-059-004 comprising native corn starch showed reduced gloss values (2.4 on black and 2.3 on white) but did not match the mattifying efficiency of porous waxy corn starch. The placebo formula (MU-059-005) maintained high gloss values (37.6 on black and 44.7 on white), clearly indicating its lack of mattifying properties.

[0364] This represents a 97% reduction in gloss for porous waxy corn starch compared to the placebo after 24 hours, confirming its unique mattifying effect. This is even more surprising considering that the formula contains 27% by weight of fatty ingredients (oils, butters and waxes).

[0365] Color Stability and Coverage

[0366] An important observation for MU-059-003 (comprising porous waxy starch) is its excellent color stability after 24 hours of drying. Both formulations showed almost no degradation of color parameters (L*, c*, and h*), and only a slight decrease in opacity.

[0367] This "color neutrality" is a significant advantage as it ensures that the mattifying effect does not compromise the coverage properties of the formulation. This benefit eliminates the need to compensate through the formulation with additional pigments or other fillers, thereby allowing better control of the composition and cost of the formulation.

[0368] In contrast, the control (MU-059-005) showed more pronounced changes in color parameters after 24 hours, which might necessitate formula adjustments to maintain consistent performance.

[0369] Conclusion

[0370] Based on the instrumental measurements both initially and after 24 hours of drying, porous waxy corn starch demonstrates exceptional mattifying properties on the final product when incorporated into the cosmetic formulation.

[0371] The initial measurements showed that porous waxy corn starch provided a significant reduction in gloss compared to both the placebo and native corn starch. After 24 hours of drying, porous waxy corn starch exhibited outstanding mattifying effect with extremely low gloss values (1.3 on black background and 5.8 on white background), while the other formulations continued to show substantially higher gloss levels.

[0372] Although the native corn starch showed reduced gloss after 24 hours (2.4 on black and 2.3 on white), it still did not achieve the same level of mattifying performance as porous waxy corn starch. The placebo maintained considerably higher gloss values, confirming its lack of mattifying properties.

[0373] The measurements of L*, c*, and h* further support these findings, with formula comprising porous waxy corn starch consistently showing values associated with a more matte appearance. The opacity measurements confirm that the superior mattifying effect of porous waxy corn starch does not compromise the product's coverage capabilities.

[0374] The results confirm that porous waxy corn starch is uniquely effective at enhancing the matte appearance of the final cosmetic product itself both immediately after application and after 24 hours of drying, which was the primary objective of this study. These results indicate that the complex of porous waxy corn starch and fatty ingredients can be characterized as an emollient-mattifying system, which is an asset in cosmetic formulation as it provides emollience while allowing for the creation of matte formulas.

[0375] Example 2: Mattifying effect Results in an oil-in-water emulsion (primer)

[0376] This study presents the results of testing the mattifying effect of porous waxy corn starch when incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion (primer). Three different formulations were evaluated, varying only in their phase C composition: a placebo formula (SC-001-018), a comparative formulacontaining a native corn starch named ST 005 (SC-001-017), and the test formula containing porous waxy corn starch named ST 305 (SC-001-016).

[0377] The formula is presented in table 5 below:

[0378] [Table 5]Commercial Name PlaceboPhase INCI NAME % w:w (Supplier) % w:wA1 Aqua Water 87.07 80.10 Xanthan gum Keltrol CG (CP Kelco) 0.33 0.30 A2Bentonite Kunipia F (Kunimine) 0.76 0.70 Polyglyceryl-6 Plural stearique MB2.17 2.00 Distearate (Gattefosse)B Diheptyl Succinate,CapryloylLexfeel N20 (Index) 5.43 5.00 Glycerin / Sebacic AcidCopolymerObject of the comparative (BbR ST 005 or BbR STC 0 8.00305)Sodium carboxymethyl Beaute by Roquette® STD 1.63 1.50starch 118 (Roquette)Potassium sorbate Microcare KS (Thor) 0.43 0.40 EAqua Water 1.09 1.00 Gluconic acid,caprylyl / capryl Beaute by Roquette® LSF 1.09 1.00 glucoside, cymbopogon 007 (Roquette)citrus leaf oil

[0379] No active ingredient was included in phase C for the placebo formula. The 8% relative to the total weight of the composition was replaced according to the compositions hereabove.

[0380] Preparation Method

[0381] All three oil-in-water emulsions were prepared following this standardized protocol:Heat aqua at 80°C, mix phase A2 and disperse in aqua under agitation with a deflocculator (500 rpm - 10 minutes)Prepare and heat Phase B at 80°C under magnetic agitation (500 rpm - 10 minutes) Emulsify Phase B in phase A (2,000 rpm - 20 minutes)Cool down at room temperature under agitation (1 ,500 rpm)Add successively Phase C if any, D, E and F under gentle agitation (800 - 1,000 rpm - 15 minutes)

[0382] Specifications of the formulation comprising porous waxy corn starch

[0383] Aspect: White, matt cream

[0384] pH: 5 - 6

[0385] Viscosity: Brookfield, SP7, 20 rpm, 1 min: 40,000 mPa.s, at ambient temperature (25°C).

[0386] Drawdown card protocol to evaluate mattifying effect1 / Equilibrate sample at room temperature and put required quantity (around 2 mL; to adapt (excess quantity goes in overflow without disturbing film formation) on drawdown card Byko-Chart 2810 from BYK (= clear coated paint test chart black and white 140x254 mm)2 / Start the automatic film applicator “BYK drive 2122” from BYK with following settings: square applicator, speed 10 mm / s and applicator gap at 4 miles (=100 microns).3 / Let dry 4h (four hours) (enough for complete drying) at 20°C + / -5°C and RH 55% + / -10%4 / Measures optical properties of the film on white side of the chart (L*c*h*, Gloss at 60°) with a spectra colorimeter Spectro2guide from BYK; Calculate average values from 3 measures for each drawdown card

[0387] Results

[0388] The mattifying effect was evaluated through several optical parameters described before. The results are described in the following table.

[0389] [Table 6]L* c* Gloss 60° Formula BackgroundAverage Average Average ° SC-001-018 (Placebo) 32.82 2.27 261.91 5.65 ST 00545.48 1.95 262.45 3.06 SC-001-017ST 30531.02 1.93 262.78 1.62 SC-001-016

[0390] Analysis

[0391] Gloss at 60°

[0392] The most critical parameter for evaluating mattifying properties is the gloss measurement at 60°. The results demonstrate that porous waxy corn starch in the SC-001-016 formula provides superior mattifying effect to the final formulation with the lowest gloss value (1.62), representing a 71.3% reduction compared to the placebo formulation (5.65). While the comparative ingredient also showed some reduction in gloss (3.06), it did not achieve the same level of mattifying performance as porous waxy corn starch.

[0393] Color Parameters (L*, c*, h*)

[0394] Only slight variations of color parameters L*, C*, h* were observed across the formulations, indicating that both starches are neutral on color properties. This color neutrality is advantageous as it allows for the mattifying effect without influencing the aesthetic appearance of the final product.

[0395] Conclusion

[0396] Based on the instrumental measurements, porous waxy corn starch demonstrates exceptional mattifying properties when incorporated into an oil-in-water emulsion. The significant reduction in gloss at 60° clearly establishes its superior performance compared to both the placebo and the comparative ingredient.

[0397] Porous waxy corn starch uniquely enhances the matte appearance of the final cosmetic formulation without compromising other important parameters. The color neutrality of porous waxy corn starch is an additional benefit, allowing formulators to achieve the desired mattifying effect without impacting the visual properties of the product.

[0398] The results confirm that porous waxy corn starch is highly effective at enhancing the matte appearance of oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic products.

[0399] Example 3: Mattifying effect Results in lipstick (solid composition)

[0400] This study presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in lipstick formulations. Three different lipstick formulations were evaluated: a placebo formula (MU-057-008), a comparative formula MU-057-006 comprising native starch (ST 005), and the test lipstick formula MU-057-007 containing porous waxy corn starch (ST 305).

[0401] The formulas are described in the tables 7 and 8 below:

[0402] [Table 7]MU-057-008 PLACEBOINGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL SUPPLIER %NAME W / W PHASE Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax Sunflower wax Koster 5.6 A KeunenEuphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Candelilla wax Koster 5.6Keunen Cera Alba Beeswax white Koster 5.6Keunen Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter Mango kernel Jan 9.4 butter RBD Dekker Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Huile de coco Cooper 9.4 raffineeRicinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Cl Covapate Uniwhite Sensient 25.3 77891 (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid LC9781Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Cl Covapate Unired Sensient 21.515850 LC 3703Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Huile de ricin Cooper 17.6

[0403] [Table 8]MU-057-006 ST 005 / MU-057-007 ST 305INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL SUPPLIER %NAME W / W PHASE Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax Sunflower wax Koster 5 A Keunen Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Candelilla wax Koster 5Keunen Cera Alba Beeswax white Koster 5Keunen Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter Mango kernel butter Jan 8.5RBD Dekker Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Huile de coco raffinee Cooper 8.5 Object of the comparative : BbR ST 005 or BbR ST 305 Roquette 10 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Covapate Uniwhite Sensient 22.7 (and) Cl 77891 (and) Polyhydroxystearic LC9781AcidRicinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Covapate Unired LC Sensient 19.3(and) Cl 15850 3703Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Huile de ricin Cooper 16

[0404] Process

[0405] Melt and blend all ingredients a 80°C

[0406] After homogenous blend is obtained, pour in the lipstick mould previously warmed at 45°C.

[0407] After 5 minutes at room temperature, put the mould in a freezer at -18°C for 15 minutes.

[0408] Remove the bullet from the mould and insert it in a retractable tube.

[0409] Methodology

[0410] The optical parameters of the lipstick formulations were measured instrumentally on drawdown card and on forearm.

[0411] Drawdown card protocol to evaluate mattifyinq effect1 / Equilibrate sample at room temperature and put required quantity (around 2 mL; to adapt (excess quantity goes in overflow without disturbing film formation) on drawdown card Byko-Chart 2810 from BYK (= clear coated paint test chart black and white 140x254 mm)2 / Start the automatic film applicator “BYK drive 2122” from BYK with following settings: square applicator, speed 10 mm / s and applicator gap at 4 miles (=100 microns).3 / Let dry 4h (four hours) (enough for complete drying) at 20°C + / -5°C and RH 55% + / -10%4 / Measures optical properties of the film on white side of the chart (L*a*c*, Gloss at 60°) with a spectra colorimeter Spectro2guide from BYK; Calculate average values from 3 measures for each drawdown card

[0412] Application on forearm protocol

[0413] Additionally, an application test was conducted on skin (forearm) using the following protocol: 1 / Using the lipstick, go back and forth on the forearm twice to form a rectangle2 / Leave to dry for 15 minutes3 / Measure with BYK instrument in ABSOLUTE mode

[0414] Results

[0415] The optical parameters of the lipstick formulations were evaluated and are presented in the table 9 below:

[0416] [Table 9]L* c* h* Gloss at 60° average average average average MU-057-008 58,62 61,94 29,56 4,22(placebo)MU-057-006 58,44 62,98 30,04 4,29ST 005MU-057-007 58,67 61,85 29,56 3,07ST 305

[0417] Analysis

[0418] Gloss at 60°

[0419] The formula containing waxy porous corn starch (MU-057-007) demonstrated a significant mattifying effect compared to both the placebo and the comparative formula. The gloss measurement at 60° for the formula containing waxy porous corn starch was 3.07, representing a 27.3% reduction compared to the placebo (4.22) and a 28.4% reduction compared to the comparative formula comprising native corn starch (4.29).

[0420] Color Parameters (L*, c*, h*)

[0421] No alteration of shade luminosity (L*), shade angle (h*), or shade chromaticity (c*) was observed across the three formulations. This indicates that the addition of waxy porous corn starch provides a mattifying effect without impacting the color properties of the lipstick, which is a significant advantage for lip products where color fidelity is critical.

[0422] Skin Application Results

[0423] The forearm application test confirmed the mattifying effect of the formula containing waxy porous corn starch on skin. When applied to skin and allowed to dry for 15 minutes, the formula containing waxy porous corn starch maintained its matte effect, demonstrating that the mattifying property translates effectively from the product itself to actual application on skin.

[0424] The mattifying effect observed after application on the skin reflects the matte appearance of the cosmetic product itself after deposition on the skin.

[0425] Conclusion

[0426] Based on the instrumental measurements and skin application tests, porous waxy com starch demonstrates exceptional mattifying properties when incorporated into lipstick formulations. The significant reduction in gloss at 60° clearly establishes its superior performance compared to both the placebo and the comparative ingredient.

[0427] What is particularly remarkable about this mattifying effect is that it occurs in a formulation predominantly composed of fatty ingredients (90% by weight of oils, butters, and waxes relative to the total weight of the product). This achievement is unusual, as such high concentrations of fatty materials typically result in glossy finishes. The ability of porous waxy corn starch to create a matte effect in this emollient-rich environment demonstrates its unique functional properties.

[0428] This association between porous waxy starch and fatty ingredients creates a particularly interesting "mattifying emollient system" for cosmetic formulation. Such a system offers formulators the previously difficult-to-achieve combination of moisturizing from the emollients with a matte finish from porous waxy starch.

[0429] Furthermore, porous waxy corn starch enhances the matte appearance of the lipstick without compromising color parameters, providing formulators with a valuable tool to develop matte lip products that maintain true color representation. This combination of mattifying effect with color fidelity is particularly valuable in the lip product category, where both finish and color accuracy are key consumer expectations.

[0430] The results confirm that waxy porous corn starch is highly effective at enhancing the matte appearance of lipstick formulations both in the product itself and when applied to skin, which makes it an excellent ingredient choice for matte lip product development.

[0431] Example 4: volume and anti-frizz effect results in fluid emulsion

[0432] This example presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in a leave-on formulation, as a fluid emulsion formulation, reference HC-060, as presented in table 10. Three different versions of this shampoo formulation were evaluated: a placebo formula (HC-060-012), a comparative formula comprising native corn starch Beaute by Roquette ST 005 a.k.a. “BbR ST 005” (HC-060-013), and the test formula containing porous waxy corn starch Beaute by Roquette ST 305 a.k.a. “BbR ST 305” (HC-060-011).

[0433] Placebo Formula (HC-060-012): No active ingredient was included in phase C. The 10% relative to the total weight of the composition of native starch or porous waxy starch has been distributed proportionally across all other ingredients to reach 100%. [Table 10]HC-060Phase INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER %W / W A1 Aqua Demineralized water n.a. 81.20 A2 Sphingomonas Kelco-Care™ diutan gum Lubrizol 0.30 Ferment ExtractB Coco-Caprylate Cetiol® C5 BASF 6.00 C14-22 Alcohols, Montanov™ L Seppic 1.50 C12-20 AlkylGlucosideSimmondsia Virgin Jojoba Oil Olvea 2.00 Chinensis Seed OilTocopherolTocopherol Bioxan® SF T 50 Exsens 0.50c Object of the comparison: 10.00 -placebo-comparative: maize starch; Beaute by Roquette® ST 005; Roquette -test: Amylopectin; porous waxy corn starch “Beaute by Roquette® ST 305” RoquetteD Phenoxyethanol Microcare® PE Thor 1.00 E Perfume Happy Beach CND L.R. Flavours & 0.3 FragrancesIndustries S.p.A.)

[0434] The formula was prepared by the following protocol:1. Disperse Phase A2 in phase A1 under agitation with deflocculator at 500 rpm for lO min,2. Heat phase A1 +A2 at 75°C,3. Weight phase B and heat at 75°C with magnetic bar,4. Emulsify phase B in phase A at 1300 rpm for 10 min and maintain at 75°C,5. Decrease agitation at 500 rpm and cool down with water + ice,6. Disperse phase C under agitation at 1000 rpm for 15 min,7. Add phase D and E at 400 rpm for 5 min.

[0435] A fluid white emulsion was obtained, having a Brookfield viscosity of 1600 mPa.s (SP5, 20 rpm, 1 min, 20°C). In this formulation, Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 provides volume, reduces frizz and enhances hair discipline.

[0436] Methodology

[0437] 1. Materials and Hair Samples

[0438] Hair strands: Natural curly hair strands were used for the evaluation. Each strand was 20 cm long, weighed 2 g, and was secured with a cable clamp.

[0439] Equipment: Image analysis was performed using a Bossa Nova Vision Shuffle Bolero system (WIDE / TRIO), which allowed for high-resolution 2D / 3D measurements of strand volume (BULK surface in cm2) and hair fly-away / frizz (FAF surface in cm2).

[0440] 2. Samples Preparation and Standardization

[0441] To ensure reproducibility, a standardized cleaning and soiling procedure was followed:

[0442] 2.1 Shampoo reset: All hair strands underwent an initial standardized shampooing (Reset) to remove any previous residues according to the following protocol:1. Weigh 0.4 g of SLES solution (10% DM) perg of hair, in a watch glass (diameter 10 cm)2. Wet the hair strand for 60 seconds (15 seconds on each side, passing the section between the index and middle fingers at the root and down to the ends 5 times with each rotation).3. To remove excess water, put the hair strand between the index and middle fingers at the root and go down to the ends, repeat the movement 3 times.4. Put the hair strand in the watch glass containing the previously weighed solution and rotate with the hair strand to collect all the SLES solution.5. Massage the hair strand from root to tip by doing 5 strokes on one side and 5 strokes on the other while rubbing / massaging.6. Rinse the hair strand under running water for 60 seconds: 15 seconds on each side, passing the section between the index and middle fingers at the root and down to the ends 5 times with each rotation.7. To remove excess water, put the hair strand between the index and middle fingers at the root and go down to the ends, repeat the movement 3 times.8. Place the hair strand flat on the glass bench. Hold the strand at the roots and comb 5 times from root to tip with the wide side of a comb. Turn the section and comb 5 times from root to tip with the thin side of a comb.

[0443] 2.2 Soiling: An artificial sebum containing dust was applied to the strands to simulate real-life dulling and flattening conditions.

[0444] 2.3 Initial Drying: The strands were air dried with a blow dryer.

[0445] 2.4 Shampoo reference

[0446] 2.5 Drying and 5 times combing

[0447] 3. Testing Procedure and Measurements

[0448] The procedure followed a multi-step image analysis sequence to track changes in volume, frizz, and shine:• Baseline Measurement (TO): An initial image analysis was performed on the dried hair strands obtained after washing with shampoo reference, referred as “cleaned hair” to establish a reference state on volume and frizz.• Leave-on application: The strands were divided into three groups and treated with the different leave-on formulations:o Group A (Placebo): Formulation HC-060-012 with placebo.o Group B (Comparative product): Formulation HC-060-13 comprising Beaute by Roquette ST 005.o Group C (invention): Formulation HC-060-11 comprising Beaute by Roquette ST 305.• Post-Treatment Analysis: After the previous treatment, hair strands were air dried with a blow dryer, and a second image analysis was conducted at the end of the overnight drying to measure the immediate effect on volume and frizz. Results obtained are presented in table 11.

[0449] [Table 11]HC-060-12 (with HC-060-013 HC-060-011 placebo) (with BbR ST (with BbR ST 005) 305) Bulk surface of cleaned hair (cm2) 22.42 21.97 20.40Bulk surface of treated hair (cm2) 31.65 43.04 49.83 Relative variation of bulk surface of +42 % +105% +124% treated hair strand with respect tocleaned hair (%)

[0450] The hair strands treated with the leave-on formulation comprising a waxy porous corn starch BbR ST 305 gained +124 % of volume, whereas the hair strands treated with leave-on formulations comprising the placebo or the native corn starch BbR ST 005 only gained +42% and +105% of volume respectively. Therefore, the waxy porous corn starch allowed a supplementary increase of volume of +20% to +80% with respect to the placebo and the comparative native corn starch.

[0451] 4. Humidity Challenge (Anti-Frizz Evaluation)

[0452] To evaluate the long-term anti-frizz properties under stress, the hair strands were placed in a climate-controlled oven at 25°C and 80% relative humidity for a duration of 24 hours. A final image analysis was performed after the 24-hour period to quantify the resistance to hair frizzing. Results are presented in table 12.

[0453] [Table 12]HC-060-12 (with HC-060-013 HC-060-011 placebo) (with BbR ST (with BbR ST 005) 305) Relative variation of FAF surface of + 29 % + 31 % +13 % treated hair after humidity challengewith respect to FAF surface of treatedhair before humidity challenge (%)

[0454] After humidity challenge, the hair strands treated with the leave-on formulation comprising a waxy porous corn starch BbR ST 305 exhibited an increase of the frizz of +13 %, whereas the hairstrands treated with the leave-on formulations comprising the placebo or the native corn starch BbR ST 005 showed an increase of the frizz of + 29 % and + 31 % respectively. Therefore, the waxy porous corn starch did reduce the formation of frizz in a bigger manner than the placebo or the comparative native corn starch.

[0455] The results of this example show that, in the leave-on fluid emulsion comprising one or more fatty ingredients, the porous waxy corn starch provides a greater increase in hair volume and a greater reduction in frizz than the placebo formulation and the formulation comprising the native corn starch. In the context of this example, the mattifying effect of the porous waxy corn starch is reflected by the ability of the composition to improve the visible appearance of the hair, as objectively evidenced by the greater increase in bulk surface and the lower increase in frizz after humidity challenge. These results indicate that the porous waxy corn starch acts as the mattifying agent in the composition and that, in this hair care embodiment, such mattifying effect is associated with increased hair volume and reduced frizz.

[0456] Example 5: volume and anti-frizz effects results in cream

[0457] This example presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in a hair mask formulation, as a cream, referenced HC-059, as presented in table 13. Three different versions of this hair mask formulation were evaluated: a placebo formula (HC-059-009), a comparative formula comprising native corn starch Beaute by Roquette ST 005 a.k.a. “BbR ST 005” (HC-059-011), and the test formula containing porous waxy corn starch Beaute by Roquette ST 305 a.k.a. “BbR ST 305” (HC-059-007).

[0458] Placebo Formula (HC-059-009): No active ingredient was included in phase C. The 10% relative to the total weight of the composition of native starch or porous waxy starch has been distributed proportionally across all other ingredients to reach 100%.

[0459] [Table 13]HC-059Phase INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER %W / W A Aqua Demineralized Water n.a. 65.50 Glycerin Glycerin AMI 3.00 B Cetearyl Alcohol, Montanov™ 68 Seppic 4.00 Cetearyl GlucosideGlyceryl Stearate Dermofeel® GSC SG Evonik 2.00 CitrateSimmondsia Jojoba Oil Olvea 6.00 Chinensis (Jojoba)Seed OilCoco- Miglyol Coco 810 IOI OLEO GmbH 8.00 Caprylate / Capratec Object of the comparison: 10.00 -placebo-comparative: maize starch; Beaute by Roquette® ST 005; Roquette -test: Amylopectin; porous waxy corn starch “Beaute by Roquette® ST 305” RoquetteD Fragrance Happy Beach CND L.R. Flavours & 0.50 FragrancesIndustries S.p.A.E Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol JAN DEKKER 1.00

[0460] Each hair mask formulation formula were prepared by the fol owing protocol:1. Stir phase A and heat at 70°C,2. At the same time, Heat phase B at 75°C with magnetic agitation,3. Add B (homogeneous phase 75°C) to A (70°C) for the emulsion during 10 min at 1000 rpm, 4. Cool down the formula to 30°C with bath water and decrease speed at the same time,5. Incorporate gradually C (BBR ST 305) and stir during 5 min at 500 rpm,6. Add D and then E and stir during 5 min at 500 rpm.

[0461] An off-white cream was obtained, having a Brookfield viscosity of 22000 mPa.s (SP6, 20 rpm, 1 min, 20°C). In this formulation, Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 preserves volume, reduces frizz, and enhances hair discipline.

[0462] A study of the impact of the hair mask formulations on the hair volume and frizz was conducted according to the same methodology as in example 4. The results are presented in table 14 and table 15.

[0463] [Table 14]HC-059-009 HC-059-011 HC-059-007 (with placebo) (with BbR ST (with BbR ST 005) 305) Relative variation of bulk surface of + 22 % + 17.1 % + 37 % treated hair strand with respect tocleaned hair (%)

[0464] The hair strands treated with the leave-on formulation comprising a waxy porous corn starch BbR ST 305 gained +37 % of volume, whereas the hair strands treated with leave-on formulations comprising the placebo or the native corn starch BbR ST 005 only gained +22% and +17% of volumerespectively. Therefore, the waxy porous corn starch allowed a supplementary increase of volume of +15% to +20% with respect to the placebo and the comparative native corn starch.

[0465] [Table 15]HC-059-009 HC-059-011 HC-059-007 (with placebo) (with BbR ST (with BbR ST 005) 305) Relative variation of FAF surface of + 23.8 % + 19.1 % + 14.9 % treated hair after humidity challengewith respect to FAF surface of treatedhair before humidity challenge (%)

[0466] After humidity challenge, the hair strands treated with the hair mask formulation comprising a waxy porous corn starch BbR ST 305 exhibited an increase of the frizz of +15 %, whereas the hair strands treated with the hair mask formulations comprising the placebo or the native corn starch BbR ST 005 showed an increase of the frizz of + 24 % and + 19 % respectively. Therefore, the waxy porous corn starch did reduce the formation of frizz in a bigger manner than the placebo or the comparative native corn starch.

[0467] The results of this example show that, in the hair mask composition comprising one or more fatty ingredients, the porous waxy corn starch provides a greater increase in hair volume and a greater reduction in frizz than the placebo formulation and the formulation comprising the native corn starch. In the context of this example, the mattifying effect of the porous waxy corn starch is reflected by the ability of the composition to improve the visible appearance of the hair, as objectively evidenced by the greater increase in bulk surface and the lower increase in frizz after humidity challenge. These results indicate that the porous waxy corn starch acts as the mattifying agent in the composition and that, in this hair care embodiment, such mattifying effect is associated with increased hair volume and reduced frizz.

[0468] Example 6: shampoo paste

[0469] This example presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in a shampoo paste formulation, reference HC-061-024 as presented in table 14.

[0470] [Table 14]

[0471] HC-061-024Phase INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER %W / W A Aqua Demineralized Water n.a. 22.60 Glycerin Glycerin AMI ingredient 5.00 Sodium Benzoate Microcare® NB THOR 0.40Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate Cooper 0.40 Sodium Gluconate Beaute by Roquette® GA 080 Roquette 1.00 B Coco Glucoside Pureact Gluco C Innospec 20.00 Sodium Lauroyl Protelan AGL 95 Zschimmer & 5.00 Glutamate Schwarz Disodium Cocoyl Plantapon® ACG 50 BASF 5.00 GlutamateC Sodium Beaute by Roquette® ST 118 Roquette 10.00 CarboxymethylStarchD Amylopectin Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 Roquette 25.00 E Fragrance Happy Beach CND L.R. Flavours & 2.50 FragrancesIndustries S.p.A.F Citric Acid Citric Acid 30% solution Cooper 3.10

[0472] The formula was prepared by the following protocol:1. Stir phase A at 15%, 10 min and heat at 40°C2. Add phase B and stir at 15%, 10 min with vacuum.3. At 40°C, add phase C and stir at 25%, 20 min with vacuum.4. Stop the heat and start cooling at 20% with vacuum.5. At 30°C, add phase D and pre-blend with a spatula in the tank.6. Stir at 30%, 5 min with vacuum.7. Scrape the sides and blades and stir again at 30%, 5 min with vacuum.8. Add E and stir at 25%, 5min, with vacuum.9. Add F and stir at 25%, 5min, with vacuum.

[0473] ‘Formula prepared according to the Stephan tool process (hence the speeds expressed in % rather than in rpm).

[0474] A thick, glossy, off-white and fragrant paste was obtained. In this formulation, Beaute by Roquette® GA 080 a chelating agent, delivers long-lasting, resilient foam. Beaute by Roquette® ST 118 a gelling agent brings a frosted aspect and a velvety touch. Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 a sensory powder delivers a unique texture while providing combing improvement and preserving normal shine (“normal” meaning not excessive relative to the healthy natural state of the hair), volume, and foam.

[0475] Example 7: soothing air serum

[0476] This example presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in a soothing hair serum formulation, reference HC-064-017 as presented in table 15.

[0477] [Table 15]HC-064-017Phase INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER %W / W A1 Aqua Demineralized Water n.a. 74.20 A2 Dextrin Beaute by Roquette® DE 006 Roquette 5.00 A3 Bentonite Kunipia F Kunimine 2.00 Xanthum Gum Keltrol® CG-SFT CP Kelco 0.30 A4 Hydroxypropyl Starch Beaute by Roquette® ST 720 Roquette 2.00B Candelilla / Jojoba / Rice Emullium® Kappa 2 Gattefosse 2.00 Bran Polyglyceryl-3Esters, GlycerylStearate, CetearylAlcohol, SodiumStearoyl LactylateCaprylic / Capric Labrabacc™ CC Gattefosse 4.00 TriglyceridePEG-40 Ricinus Communis Seed Oil Cooper 3.00 Hydrogenated CastorOilTocopherol Bioxan® T50 BTSA 0.20 C Phenoxyethanol Microcare® PE Jan Dekker 1.00 D Perfume Happy Beach CND L.R. Flavours & 0.40 FragrancesIndustries S.p.A.E Amylopectin Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 Roquette 6.00

[0478] The formula was prepared by the following protocol:1. Heat phase A1 at 80 °C and disperse phase A2 under agitation with a deflocculator (at 500 rpm for 5 min),2. Disperse phase A3 under agitation with a deflocculator (at 500 rpm for 10 min),3. Add phase A4 under agitation with a deflocculator (at 800 rpm for 5 min),4. Prepare and heat phase B at 80°C under magnetic agitation (at 500 rpm for 10 min),5. At 80°C, emulsify phase B in A under agitation with a deflocculator (at 1000 - 1500 rpm for 15 min),6. Cool down at20°C,7. Add phase C and D under agitation with a deflocculator (at 1500 rpm for 5 min),8. Add phase E under agitation with a deflocculator (at 1500 rpm for 10 min)..

[0479] A white beige emulsion was obtained, having a Brookfield viscosity of 3000 mPa.s (SP4, 20 rpm, 1 min, 20°C). In this formulation, Beaute by Roquette® DE 006 a microbiome-friendly agent, soothes the scalp while Beaute by Roquette® ST 720, a film-former, provides heat protection, and Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 a sensory powder for a unique sensory experience.

[0480] This example shows that the porous waxy corn starch can be incorporated into a shampoo paste composition to provide a distinctive texture and sensory profile while also contributing to combing improvement and to the preservation of hair volume, normal shine (“normal” meaning not excessive relative to the healthy natural state of the hair), and foam. In the context of this rinse-off hair care composition, these results indicate that the porous waxy corn starch can contribute to a lighter cosmetic result, reflected in preserved hair volume, while maintaining desirable sensory and foaming properties.

[0481] Example 8: rinse-off hair mask

[0482] This example presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in a rinse-off hair mask formulation, reference HC-062-010, as presented in table 16.

[0483] [Table 16]HC-062-010Phase INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER %W / W A Aqua Demineralized Water n.a. 64.62 Propylene Glycol Propylene Glycol 3.00 Hydrogenated Starch Beaute by Roquette® PO 455 Roquette 5.00 HydrolysateSodium Benzoate Microcare® NB Thor 0.40 Potassium Sorbate Potassium Sorbate Thor 0.40 B Hydroxypropyl Starch Beaute by Roquette® ST 320 Roquette 5.00 PhosphateC Ceteareth-20 Eumulgin® B2 BASF 1.00 Cetearyl Alcohol Lanette® 0 BASF 6.00 Behentrimonium Varisoft® BT 85 Evonik 0.10 ChlorideIsononyl Lanol 99 Seppic 4.00 IsononanoateButyrospermum Cetiol® SB 45 BASF 1.00 Parkii ButterCandelilla Wax Candelilla Wax Koster Keunen 1.00 Tocopherol Bioxan® T50 BTSA 0.20 D Amylopectin Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 Roquette 1.00 E Cl 16035 FD&C Red N°4007700-C Sensient beauty 0.00028Fragrance Happy Beach CND L.R. Flavours & 0.9 FragrancesIndustries S.p.A.F Citric Acid Citric Acid 30% solution Cooper 0.38

[0484] The formula was prepared by the following protocol:1. Stir phase A at 200 rpm and start heating at 85 °C (heating time).2. When phase A is at 85°C and homogeneous, sprinkle phase B at 1000 rpm.3. Keep the gel stirred at 85°C for 20 min at 1000 rpm so that it forms.4. At the same time, stir phase C and start heating at 85°C with magnetic bat at 350 rpm.5. When phase C is homogeneous and phases A and C at 85°C, add phase C to A in a thin stream and emulsify 15 min at 1300 rpm. | 6. Maintain stirring at 1300 rpm 10 min.6. Start cooling and decrease speed at 1000 rpm.7. At40°C, add phase D gradually by sprinkling (1000 rpm) and stir 10 min.8. Add phase E and stir 5 min at 800 rpm. | 10. Add phase F and stir 5 min at 700 rpm.

[0485] A Smooth, thick, shiny, pale pink and fragrant emulsion was obtained. In this formulation, Beaute by Roquette® PO 455 a humectant and texturizer brings wet combing benefits. Beaute by Roquette® ST 320 a comforting thickener and stabilizer provides a cocooning texture. Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 a sensory powder, brings sensory benefits and consistency.This example shows that the porous waxy corn starch can be incorporated into a rinse-off hair mask composition comprising one or more fatty ingredients while providing sensory benefits and contributing to the consistency of the formulation. In this example, the porous waxy corn starch is thus shown to contribute to the overall cosmetic and sensory profile of the composition, whereas any emollient effect remains associated primarily with the one or more fatty ingredients.

Claims

1. Claims

1. Composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one fatty ingredient is selected among wax, butter, oil, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Paraffin Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Wax, Soy Wax, Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Jojoba Wax (Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Berry Wax (Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax), Myrica Fruit Wax (Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax), Palm Wax (Elaeis Guineensis), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene Wax, Montan Wax, Bayberry Wax (Myrica Pubescens Fruit Wax), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Meadowfoam Seed Oil Wax (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Tallow (Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides), Ozokerite Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (CastorWax), Synthetic Beeswax, Montan Acid Wax, Ceramide Wax, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ceresin Wax, Fischer-Tropsch Wax, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Soy Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lactyl Lactate, Stearyl Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Ester, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof, and preferably, among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax), Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or2, wherein the butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), Cupuacu Butter (Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), lllipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Tucuma Butter (Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter), Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta Seed Butter), Aloe Butter (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Hemp Seed Butter (Cannabis Sativa Seed Butter), Olive Butter (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Almond Butter (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Macadamia Butter (Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), SoyButter (Glycine Soja Oil and Hydrogenated Soybean Oil), Pistachio Butter (Pistacia Vera Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Pumpkin Seed Butter (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Watermelon Seed Butter (Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Green Tea Butter (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Lavender Butter (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Rose Butter (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Vanilla Butter (Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and mixtures thereof and preferably among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), illipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is selected among natural oils, essential oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 5, wherein the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

7. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 6, wherein the starch is selected among the group consisting of tapioca starch, corn starch, pea starch, potato starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, rice starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch and buckwheat starch, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected among maize starch and rice starch, and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 7, wherein the porous starch is a non-agglomerated porous starch or a porous granular starch or a non-agglomerated porous granular starch.

9. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 8, wherein the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

10. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 9, wherein the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] of the said porous starch; measured by laser diffraction granulometry, is less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 22 microns, and preferably, d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns.

11. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 10, wherein the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 15 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 12 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 10 microns, The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 20 microns, The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 50 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 27 microns.

12. Cosmetic product comprising the composition for cosmetic products as described in any of claims 1 to 11 , and at least one further ingredients chosen from fillers, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof..

13. The cosmetic product according to claim 12, wherein said cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 100% of a composition for cosmetic products as described in any of claims 1 to 11, preferably between 1 and 90%, preferably between 2 and 80%, preferably from 3 to 70% relative to the total weight of said cosmetic product.

14. Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a mattifying agent of a cosmetic product, or as a volume and / or anti-frizz agent of a cosmetic product.

15. Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as an emollient-mattifying system, or as an emollient-volume system, or as an emollient-volume-anti-frizz system.

Images