Compositions for cosmetic products comprising porous waxy starches and fatty ingredients

Abstract

The invention relates to a novel structuring agent, a porous waxy starch, that, when combined with fatty ingredients, forms a unique composition that can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations to deliver emollient benefits without compromising the physical integrity, such as the cohesiveness and / or the hardness of the final product. More specifically, the combination of porous waxy starch with fatty ingredients creates a structuring emollient system that provides hardness and / or, cohesiveness while delivering emollient properties. In some embodiments, particularly in hair compositions, the porous waxy starch may also help preserve or improve cosmetic properties such as hair volume and frizz control. Such a composition would constitute a valuable cosmetic ingredient complex enabling formulators to create solid products with emollient benefits without the traditional drawbacks.

Description

DescriptionTitle: Compositions for cosmetic products comprising porous waxy starches and fatty ingredientsTechnical Field

[0001] This disclosure pertains to the field of cosmetic compositions.Background Art

[0002] In the field of cosmetic products, particularly solid cosmetic products such as lipsticks, solid deodorants, and cosmetic soaps, there exists a continuous need for products that provide enhanced skin benefits through emollient properties while maintaining optimal mechanical characteristics.

[0003] Conventional solid cosmetic compositions face a significant technical challenge: the incorporation of sufficient amounts of fatty ingredients (such as lipids, oils, and waxes) to deliver meaningful skin benefits often compromise the textural properties, notably the cohesiveness, and the hardness of the final product. This technical contradiction limits formulators' ability to create solid cosmetic products that simultaneously provide excellent skin care benefits and maintain robust physical properties during use.

[0004] More specifically, when traditional solid cosmetic formulations are enriched with fatty ingredients to enhance moisturization, skin conditioning, and sensorial comfort, several technical issues typically arise:Decreased structural cohesiveness leading to product breakage during application.Reduced hardness resulting in excessive softening at skin or ambient temperature.Compromised shape retention capabilities during storage and use.Diminished pay-off consistency and precision of application.Inconsistent texture and sensorial properties during product use.

[0005] An additional technical challenge emerges in the domain of solid soaps and more generally in cosmetic products containing surfactants. In these formulations, the introduction of a texturizing agent must not only maintain the structural integrity of the solid product and allow for the incorporation of emollients, but it must also preserve the foaming properties of the surfactants. The quality, volume, and stability of foam are essential characteristics of surfactant-containing products. These properties play a determining role in cleansing efficiency and in the sensory experience perceived by the consumer. Any element introduced into the formulation must preserve these foaming attributes which are directly linked to consumer satisfaction and the perception of product effectiveness. Consequently, there is a need for texturizing agent that can coexist with surfactant systems without compromising their fundamental foaming performance.

[0006] Therefore, there remains a need in the cosmetic formulation art for novel structuring agent that, when associated with fatty ingredients, enable the incorporation of significant amounts of these fattyingredients, especially liquid fatty ingredients, into solid cosmetic compositions while preserving or enhancing the mechanical properties such as hardness and cohesiveness of the final product.

[0007] There is also a need for structuring emollient complexes for cosmetic products that successfully combine the emollient properties (moisturizing, skin conditioning, comfort) with structural benefits (hardness and cohesiveness), and which can be easily incorporated into various cosmetic formulations. For lip products, there is a specific need for formulations that provide emollient care benefits without creating loss of structural integrity. For soap and surfactant-containing products, structuring agents must not only ensure structural stability but also maintain foam quality and cleansing efficiency while providing appropriate sensorial properties.

[0008] An additional technical challenge can arise in cosmetic compositions, particularly hair cosmetic compositions, in that the introduction of a texturizing or structuring agent can be configured to avoid adversely affecting the cosmetic performance expected from the finished product. In particular, in hair compositions comprising fatty ingredients, the formulator may seek to preserve desirable cosmetic properties such as volume, frizz control, combability, normal shine (“normal” meaning the natural shine of healthy hair, in contrast to excessive shine), foam quality, and sensory profile, while still obtaining the required textural or mechanical properties of the composition. Accordingly, there remains a need for agents that can contribute to formulation structure and compatibility with fatty ingredients without detracting from the cosmetic appearance and performance imparted to keratin fibers.Summary

[0009] The invention relates to a novel structuring agent, a porous waxy starch, that, when combined with fatty ingredients, forms a unique composition that can be incorporated into cosmetic formulations to deliver emollient benefits without compromising the physical integrity, such as the cohesiveness and / or the hardness of the final product. More specifically, the combination of porous waxy starch with fatty ingredients creates a structuring emollient system or structuring emollient complex that provides hardness and / or, cohesiveness while delivering emollient properties. Such a composition would constitute a valuable cosmetic ingredient complex enabling formulators to create solid products with emollient benefits without the traditional drawbacks.

[0010] For lip products, inventors advantageously demonstrate that a porous waxy starch provides a solution to the challenge of combining emollient properties of fatty ingredients with adequate hardness.

[0011] Furthermore, the results demonstrate a significant advantage of soap formulations comprising a porous waxy starch, which maintain excellent hardness despite containing approximately 30% waxes, butters, and oils. This superior hardness compared to comparative formulations highlights the effective structuring capabilities of the porous waxy starch. Furthermore, the formula comprising porous waxy starch maintains excellent foam generation properties due to porous waxy starch's mechanical effect through friction with surface roughness and increased interaction with surfactants, outperforming formulations containing native corn starch and placebo.

[0012] The results also clearly demonstrate that a porous waxy starch is an exceptional structuring agent for poured blush, providing superior hardness. This performance is particularly remarkable considering the formulation contains a very high proportion of fatty substances (more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of waxes, oils and butters).

[0013] It has also been demonstrated that the porous waxy starch is an adequate structuring agent for deodorant application providing lowered cohesion indicating that the deodorant stick containing porous waxy corn starch will better be transferred to skin during application. It has been also demonstrated that the deodorant comprising waxy starch also improves the visual aspect on the skin as it creates a deposit on the skin which has from fewer visible white spots to none of any visible white spots, after application compared to the comparative deodorant formula. Without being bound by any theory, the applicant suggests that the specific physical state of the surface of the porous starch allows the light to be better diffracted, therefore reducing the visibility of the deposit.

[0014] Finally, it has been demonstrated that the porous waxy starch contributes to the texture and / or structure of the composition while allowing the composition to retain desirable cosmetic properties. In some embodiments, particularly in hair compositions, the porous waxy starch can be incorporated into texturizing formats, including solid or semi-solid formats, while preserving or improving one or more cosmetic properties such as hair volume and frizz control.

[0015] Detailed description

[0016] Embodiments

[0017] Embodiment 1 : the present invention concerns composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient.

[0018] Embodiment 2: The composition according to embodiment 1, wherein the at least one fatty ingredient is selected among wax, butter, oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0019] Embodiment 3: The composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Paraffin Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Wax, Soy Wax, Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Jojoba Wax (Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Berry Wax (Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax), Myrica Fruit Wax (Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax), Palm Wax (Elaeis Guineensis), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene Wax, Montan Wax, Bayberry Wax (Myrica Pubescens Fruit Wax), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Meadowfoam Seed Oil Wax (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Tallow (Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides), Ozokerite Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (CastorWax), Synthetic Beeswax, Montan Acid Wax, Ceramide Wax, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ceresin Wax, Fischer-Tropsch Wax, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Soy Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lactyl Lactate, Stearyl Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Ester, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Beeswax(Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax), Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof.

[0020] Embodiment 4: The composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), Cupuacu Butter (Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), lllipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Tucuma Butter (Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter), Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta Seed Butter), Aloe Butter (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Hemp Seed Butter (Cannabis Sativa Seed Butter), Olive Butter (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Almond Butter (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Macadamia Butter (Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Soy Butter (Glycine Soja Oil and Hydrogenated Soybean Oil), Pistachio Butter (Pistacia Vera Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Pumpkin Seed Butter (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Watermelon Seed Butter (Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Green Tea Butter (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Lavender Butter (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Rose Butter (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Vanilla Butter (Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), illipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and mixtures thereof.

[0021] Embodiment 5: The composition according to embodiment 1 or 2, wherein the oil is selected among natural oils, essential oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene and mixtures thereof.

[0022] Embodiment 6: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 5, wherein the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

[0023] Embodiment 7: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 6, further comprising at least one surfactant.

[0024] Embodiment 8: The composition according to embodiment 7, wherein the surfactant is chosen among Sodium Palmate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Olivate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

[0025] Embodiment 9: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 8, wherein the starch is selected among the group consisting of tapioca starch, corn starch, pea starch, potato starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, rice starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch and buckwheat starch, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected among maize starch and rice starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0026] Embodiment 10: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 or 9, wherein the degree of hydrolysis of said at least one porous starch is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20%, preferably 11 and 16%.

[0027] Embodiment 11: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 10, wherein the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] of the said porous starch; measured by laser diffraction granulometry, is less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 22 microns, and preferably, d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns.

[0028] Embodiment 12: The composition according to anyone of embodiments 1 to 11, wherein the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 15 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 12 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 10 microns,The diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 20 microns,The diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 50 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 27 microns.

[0029] Embodiment 13: Cosmetic product comprising the composition for cosmetic products as described in any of embodiments 1 to 12.

[0030] Embodiment 14: Cosmetic product consisting essentially in the composition as described in embodiments 1 to 12.

[0031] Embodiment 15: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 13, further comprising other ingredients chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0032] Embodiment 16: The cosmetic product according to embodiment 15, wherein the at least one surfactant is present in an amount from 0 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0033] Embodiment 17: The cosmetic product according to embodiments 13 to 16, wherein said cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 100% of a composition for cosmetic products as described in any of claims 1 to 12.

[0034] Embodiment 18: The cosmetic product according to anyone of embodiments 13 to 17, wherein said cosmetic product is a solid cosmetic product, preferably chosen from balms, sticks, solid bars, solidified emulsions, concealers and bases, mascaras, lipstick, styling products, care products, contouring and modeling products and pencils.

[0035] Embodiment 19: Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a structuring agent.

[0036] Embodiment 20: Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as a structuring emollient complex.

[0037] Embodiment 21: Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0038] Embodiment 22: Use of a composition as defined in any of embodiments 1 to 12 or of a cosmetic product as defined in anyone of embodiments 13 to 18, for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably hair.

[0039] Embodiment 23: Use according to embodiment 22, for increasing hair volume and / or for reducing hair frizz.

[0040] Embodiment 24: A cosmetic treatment method for hair, comprising the application onto hair of a composition as defined in any of embodiments 1 to 12 or of a cosmetic product as defined in anyone of embodiments 13 to 18, optionally followed by a shaping step, to increase hair volume and / or to reduce hair frizz.

[0041] Composition for cosmetic products

[0042] As used herein, a "composition for cosmetic products" refers to a formulation that is suitable for providing a cosmetic product. This composition can serve as the pre-mix of a cosmetic product. It is designed to be physiologically acceptable, meaning it is compatible with the skin and / or its integuments and the hair, has a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (such as stinging or tautness) that would discourage the consumer from using the product.

[0043] In the context of this invention, a "composition for cosmetic products" specifically includes formulations that incorporate at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient.

[0044] These compositions comprising at least one waxy porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient differs from loaded porous starch with fatty ingredients. Indeed, the at least one fatty ingredient exists independently alongside the at least one porous starch rather than being absorbed within it. While minimal absorption may occur in small quantities, the composition differs from approaches where compounds are deliberately loaded into starch granules.

[0045] Such compositions may also include additional ingredients, depending on the specific application and desired properties of the cosmetic products. In the present invention, the at least one waxy porous starch is dispersed into fatty ingredients.

[0046] The compositions disclosed herein are distinguished from the compositions described in WO2024 / 059459, which are directed to free-flowing plated porous starch granules onto which an oil-and-liquid emulsion is adsorbed so that the granules retain a dry, free-flowing powder form. By comparison, in the compositions disclosed herein, the at least one fatty ingredient remains present as an independent fatty constituent alongside the at least one waxy porous starch, and the at least one waxy porous starch is dispersed in the fatty ingredient rather than being used as a carrier onto which the fatty ingredient is adsorbed, plated, or loaded. Although a minor portion of the fatty ingredient may contact the surface of the porous starch or penetrate a portion of the pores, the composition is not characterized by starch granules loaded with fatty material for conversion into a powder. The composition is not a dry or free-flowing powder.

[0047] In an embodiment, the composition for cosmetic products comprises at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient; wherein the at least one porous starch is dispersed in a fatty phase comprising the at least one fatty ingredient, and wherein at least a portion of the at least one fatty ingredient is present outside the pores of the at least one porous starch.

[0048] In some embodiments, only a minor portion of the at least one fatty ingredient is absorbed into, retained within, or otherwise present in the pores of the at least one porous starch. In some embodiments, the majority of the at least one fatty ingredient remains outside the pores of the at least one porous starch, such that the at least one fatty ingredient forms a continuous or external fatty phase in which the at least one porous starch is dispersed. In some embodiments, more than 50% by weight, alternatively more than 60% by weight, alternatively more than 75% by weight, of the at least one fatty ingredient is present outside the pores of the at least one porous starch.

[0049] Amylose and amylopectin content of starch

[0050] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0051] As used herein, the term porous waxy starch means a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0052] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 90%, or preferably greater than 95%, or more preferably greater than 99%.

[0053] In a preferred embodiment, the term porous waxy starch means a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0054] Determining the amylopectin content in starch typically involves potentiometric titration using iodine solution. Initially, the starch sample is defatted using methanol. The deffated starch is solubilized in KOH solution followed by neutralization using HCI solution. The solubilized starch solution is mixed with potassium iodide and then titrated using diluted iodine solution. Amylose can form complex with Iodine, and thus the amount of amylose can be determined based on the amount of complexed iodine. Since starch is mainly made up of amylose and amylopectin, the amylopectin content is then calculated by subtracting the amylose content from 100%.

[0055] Botanical origin

[0056] The starch may be selected from all existing botanical origins, in particular those existing in nature, chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, potato starch, pea starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch, buckwheat starch, barley starch, oat starch, chestnut starch, taro starch, yam starch, banana starch, kudzu starch, plantain starch, jackfruit seed starch, lotus seed starch, acorn starch and mixtures thereof.

[0057] In a preferred embodiment, the starch may be chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, pea starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, barley oat, oat starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch, buckwheat starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the starch is chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch. In a preferred embodiment, the starch is selected among corn starch, rice starch, and mixtures thereof. In a yet preferred embodiment, the starch is corn starch (also sometimes named maize starch).

[0059] Porous starch

[0060] The porous starch is a granular starch, constituted of granules having pores wherein the pores can be in the form of holes present on the surface of the starch and / or in the form of interconnected cavities inside the starch granules.

[0061] “Granular” means the starch is made of individual particles, the granules, which have the shape of the native starch granules, and which also have an internal structure similar or close to the one of native starch. In particular, the granular porous starch still exhibits a birefringence visible by microscopyunder polarized light, often referred to as the “Maltese cross”, and its average degree of crystallinity is similar or close to the one of the non porosified starch.

[0062] “Granular” means also that the starch is “non-cooked” and is not a pregelatinized starch. Pregelatinization is a known process applied to starch by spray-drying, roll-drying, drum-drying, extrusion and other heating / drying processes that induces the collapse or disruption of molecular orders within starch granules, manifested in irreversible changes in aspect and in properties such as granular swelling, native crystallite melting (which decreases the amount of crystalline regions of the starch granules, i.e. which reduces the average cristallinity of the starch), loss of birefringence, appearance of a substantial solubility (swelling) in cold water without any cooking, and viscosity development immediately after dispersion in water, in contrast to native starches.

[0063] Starches claimed as porous in WO / 2009 / 103514, WO 2023 / 064836, and US2022 / 078015, or starches sold by Cargill Incorporated under the brand name “Starrier”, such as “Starrier R”, are actually pregelatinized starches, which are non-granular, and are not a granular porous starch according to the present invention or suitable for the cosmetic uses according to the present application.

[0064] Hence, in an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0065] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0066] The porous starch according to the invention is a “non-agglomerated” starch, preferably a “nongranulated” starch, or comprises almost non agglomerates of starch granules. Non-agglomerated means that the starch is essentially made of a plurality of individual free moving porous starch granules which are not physically bonded together. This non-agglomerated state is the usual aspect of native starches after aqueous extraction from plant tubers and grains. In particular, the porous starch according to the invention is not an agglomerated porous starch, as for example obtained by spay-drying or by fluidized-bed, like the granulated product N-ZORBIT® 2144 sold by Ingredion and proposed as a plating agent. This N-ZORBIT® 2144 is composed of agglomerates of at least about 10 individual porous starch granules. These agglomerates are described to be obtained by a granulation process consisting in bonding of starch granules by low molecular weight sugars, wherein sugars were released by hydrolysis by enzymes of the starch during the porosification process of the starch. According to a measurement made by the Applicant, the N-ZORBIT® product contains at least 10% of reducing sugars, especially glucose.

[0067] Hence, in an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0068] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0069] The porous starch according to the invention is not a plating agent such as in the case of “Starrier R” from Cargill, which is a pregelatinized starch as described in W02009 / 103514, and which is used in WO2023 / 064836 to prepare dry premix of cosmetic ingredients, and as the N-Zorbit products from Ingredion. Furthermore, the porous starch according to the invention was not designed to have this specific function of plating agent, but was designed to be a cosmetic ingredient with in particular a mattifying function.

[0070] Pores can also be referred to as cavities or holes and can be used interchangeably.

[0071] The surface morphology of porous granules, and the size and structure of the pores can be analyzed with Scanning Electron Microscopy.

[0072] Observing starch using Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) involves a series of meticulous preparation steps followed by imaging. Initially, the starch sample must be dehydrated to remove any moisture that could interfere with the vacuum conditions inside the SEM chamber. The dry starch sample is then mounted on a specimen stub, often using a conductive adhesive to ensure it stays in place and to enhance conductivity. To prevent charging underthe electron beam, a thin conductive coating, typically gold or platinum, is sputter-coated onto the sample. The prepared sample is placed into the SEM chamber, which is evacuated to create a high vacuum. Once the sample is in the chamber, an electron beam scans the surface of the starch granules. The interactions between the electron beam and the sample generate various signals, including secondary electrons that are collected to form high-resolution images of the starch granules. These images provide detailed information about the surface morphology, size, and structure of the starch granules, revealing features such as shape, surface texture, including the pores on the surface, and any structural irregularities.

[0073] Any porous starch can be used in the present invention, provided the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0074] Typically, porous starch described in WO2021 / 144245 and in US 4,551,177 can be used.

[0075] In some embodiments, the porous starch may be selected from granular porous starches having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, in particular granular porous starches that are not cooked, pregelatinized, or agglomerated before incorporation into the composition for cosmetic products.

[0076] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 %, or greater than 85%, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0077] In a preferred embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention is a non-agglomerated porous granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0078] Moreover, the applicant has also developed specific porous starch as described hereinafter.

[0079] Method for obtaining porous starch

[0080] Porous starch can be obtained by any method suitable to modify starch while being and staying in a granular state, so as to create pores in the structure of the granular starch. The granular state of the starch may also be referred to as a “non-cooked" by the person skilled in the art of starch processing, meaning the starch did not undergo any “cooking”, i.e. did not undergo neither pre-gelatinization nor gelatinization. The porosity can be more or less extensive. The porosity is less extensive when the pores are merely present on the surface of the starch granules. The porosity is extensive when the pores are in the form of interconnecting cavities inside the starch granules. Any porosity between these two extremes can be obtained by adjusting the production method. Such methods are for example:Physical methods such as mechanical impact, microwave or ultrasound,Chemical methods such as solvent exchange such as direct drying or supercritical drying, acid hydrolysis, molecular insertion,Enzymatic method such as individual enzyme hydrolysis, combined enzyme hydrolysis, Synergic methods such as enzyme hydrolysis combined with ultrasound or crosslinking, extrusion, freeze-thawing, heat-moisture.

[0081] Such methods are known by the one skilled in the art who can refers, for example, to Chen et al. “Preparation, characterization, physicochemical property and potential application of porous starch: A review”, International Journal of Biological Macromolecules 148 (2020) 1169-1181.

[0082] According to an embodiment, the hydrolysis is performed on a granular starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % by any combination of any method of porosification listed above, in particular by combining an acid hydrolysis and an enzymatic hydrolysis, and preferably by performing enzymatic hydrolysis only. The enzymatic hydrolysis is preferred because it is an environmentally friendly process that saves quantities of energy and chemicals, and is an efficient process that allows for good control of the level of hydrolysis.

[0083] In an embodiment, the method for obtaining the pores is an enzymatic method, preferably an enzymatic method using amylases or transferases. Transferases may be CGTase for instance. Preferably, the enzyme is chosen from amylases, more preferably from alpha(a)-amylase, beta-amylase, amylo-glucoamylase, even more preferably is an a-amylase (EC 3.2.1.1), below the gelatinization temperature of starch.

[0084] The principle of starch porosification by enzymes is that the enzyme either drill holes into the starch granules, or enlarge pre-existing holes, by hydrolyzing the starch molecules into smaller molecules like glucose, maltose, and oligosaccharides, thereby creating or increasing the void space inside the72granules of starch. The hydrolysis of the starch granules does not occur evenly overall the outer layer of starch constituting the surface of the granules. Instead, there are spots where the enzymes actually drill holes, which creates a distribution of holes over the entire surface of the granules, and then continues to digest the starch inside the granule, thus creating or increasing its porosity.

[0085] In an embodiment, the starch is a starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0086] The present invention also concerns a process for obtaining a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, the process comprising the following steps:Preparing a slurry of granular starch in demineralized water and increasing the temperature below the starch gelatinization temperature,Adjusting the pH between 5 and 7,Adding an a-amylase to the starch slurry while mixing,Incubating at temperature below the starch gelatinization temperature, e.g. 40°C for waxy rice starch and 50°C for waxy com starch, until reaching hydrolysis degree between 10% and 15%, Deactivating the enzyme by adjusting the pH to between 3 and 3.5 and allowing it to react for at least 30 minutes while stirring and cooling to room temperature,Neutralizing the slurry to a pH comprised between 5 and 6,Collecting the porous starch obtained, for instance by filtration, and washing to remove free sugars, preferably with water, more preferably with cold water,Drying the porous starch obtained,And, if necessary, sieve and / or grind the dry porous starch obtained.

[0087] Specific surface area

[0088] When the phrase “comprised between [a first value] and [a second value]” is used in this patent application, it is understood that the boundaries are included in the indicated range.”

[0089] The specific surface area is the surface available for gas or liquid molecules. It includes the external as well as the internal surface of a solid body such as starch granule.

[0090] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average specific surface area, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g.

[0091] In one embodiment, the porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average specific surface area, between 0.4 and 1.2 m2 / g, preferably between 0.5 and 1.0 m2 / g, preferably between 0.6 and 0.9 m2 / g.

[0092] In these embodiments, the specific surface area is measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with the Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (noted BJH) model.

[0093] Nitrogen adsorption sorptometry is a technique used in materials science to measure the amount of nitrogen gas adsorbed onto and desorbed from a material's surface at different relative pressures, typically at 77 K. This produces an adsorption isotherm that helps determine surface area, pore volume, and pore size distribution. The Barrett-Joyner-Halenda (BJH) model is employed to analyze the desorption branch of the isotherm, focusing on mesoporous materials (pores 2-50 nm). By integrating the area under the pore size distribution curve, the average pore volume and average surface area can be estimated.

[0094] Average visible pore diameter

[0095] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 to 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns.

[0096] The average visible pore diameter refers to the average value of the diameter of the pores visible on the surface of the porous starch granule, measured using Scanning Electron Microscopy.

[0097] On the basis of the criterion of IUPAC, macropores refer to pores with the hole diameter larger than 50 nm, mesopores represent pores with, the hole diameter between 2 nm and 50 nm, while micropores possess, the hole diameter smaller than 2 nm.

[0098] Hence, according to the criterion of IUPAC, porous starch according to the invention have macropores.

[0099] Average pore volume

[0100] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 7.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.0 and 6.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.50 and 6.50 mm3 / g.

[0101] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average pore volume comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 2.5 and 4.5 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.0 and 4.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 3.50 and 4.00 mm3 / g.

[0102] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80%, or greater than 85 %, or greater than 90%, or greater than 95%, or greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, has an average pore volume comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 7.0 mm3 / g, preferably between 5.50 and 6.50 mm3 / g, preferably between 6.00 and 6.50 mm3 / g.

[0103] The average volume is measured by the well-known method of sorptometry by nitrogen adsorption and application of the Barrett, Joyner and Halenda model, herein “BJH” model. It refers to the total void space within the porous starch.

[0104] Water content

[0105] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a water content comprised between 3 and 20%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably between 5 and 18%, preferably between 6.5 and 16.5%, preferably between 6 and 15 %, preferably between 7.5 and 15.5%, preferably between 8 and 15%, preferably between 10 and 13%, and more preferably between 9 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch

[0106] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous waxy corn starch. In this embodiment, the at least one porous waxy corn starch has a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 9 and 11%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0107] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous waxy rice starch. In this embodiment, the at least one porous waxy rice starch has a water content comprised between 8 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13%, preferably between 10 and 12%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0108] The usual method for measuring the water content of starch is using a moisture analyzer, such as Mettler Toledo Halogen Moisture Analyzer HE73. The starch sample (between 3.5 and 5.0 g) is heated at 130°C, and the moisture loss is recorded when the weight becomes constant.

[0109] Degree of hydrolysis

[0110] In an embodiment, the degree of hydrolysis of said at least one porous starch according to the invention is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 9 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 16%.

[0111] The determination of the degree of hydrolysis is as follows. A refractometer, such as Atago PAL-1, is used to measure the concentration of soluble sugars in the starch slurry during the enzymatic hydrolysis producing porous starch at different time points, including 0 min, by placing a drop of starch slurry on the cell of the refractometer. The refractometer reading gives a value called “degree Brix”. This value results from the solution's refractive index measured by the refractometer, and it correlates directly to the percentage of dissolved sugar, i.e. soluble sugars, by weight as follows: for a given sample, 1 degree Brix is equal to a sucrose concentration of 1 g per 100 gram of solution. Before the measurement,the refractometer is zeroed using demineralized water. The concentration of soluble sugars is then converted to the degree of hydrolysis in order to control the extent of the enzymatic hydrolysis:

[0112] Degree of hydrolysis at t min = 100 x (total liquid weight x concentration of soluble sugars at t min) / dry starch weight

[0113] Where:- Total liquid weight can be obtained as the difference between total starch slurry weight and dry starch weight. Dry starch weight is the weight of the raw starch minus its moisture content. This is calculated at tO on the basis of the values of materials engaged into the hydrolysis, and it is then supposed to be almost constant during the hydrolysis.- The concentration of soluble sugars at t min is calculated as the difference between the concentration of total solubles at t min and that at 0 min, measured by refractometer, i.e. the difference: degree Brix at t min - degree Brix at 0 min. The reading at 0 min is important as the zero point because there is other soluble materials in the starch slurry that can affect the reading.

[0114] Granulometry

[0115] The porous waxy starch according to the present invention occurs in the form of granules, which are individual, i.e. not agglomerated. The particle size of the porous starch granules may be further reduced by sieving, grinding, homogenization and / or micronization.

[0116] In an embodiment, the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3] of the porous starch according to the invention; measured by laser diffraction granulometry, is less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 22 microns.

[0117] In an embodiment, the d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns.

[0118] In an embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous starch are such that:The d[4;3] is less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 20 microns and,The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is of less than or equal to 15 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 12 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 10 microns, andThe diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 25 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 20 microns, andThe diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is of less than or equal to 50 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 40 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 30 microns, preferably of less than or equal to 27 microns.

[0119] According to measurements made by the Applicant or data available publicly, “Starrier” starches from Cargill, which are pregelatinized non-granular starches, have a median particle size d(50) between 100 and 375 microns, and a sample of N-ZORBIT® 2144 from Ingredion, which is made of agglomerated porous starches granules, have a d(10) of 36 microns, a d(50) of 79 microns, and a d(90) of 135 microns.

[0120] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention, is a porous corn starch. In this embodiment, the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3], measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns.

[0121] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention, is a porous corn starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous corn starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, andThe diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 microns, or preferably between 7 and 9 microns, andThe diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns, or preferably between 12 and 17 microns, or preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns.

[0122] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention, is a porous rice starch. In this embodiment, the volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3], measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous rice starch is comprised between 1 and 20 microns, or preferably between 3 and 15, or preferably between 4 and 10 microns, or preferably between 5 and 9 microns.

[0123] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous rice starch. In this embodiment, the characteristic diameters, volume-weighted mean diameter (d[4;3]) and diameters at 10th, 50th, and 90thpercentiles (d(10), d(50) and d(90)), measured by laser diffraction granulometry, of said at least one porous rice starch are such that:The d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 20 microns, or preferably between 3 and 15, or preferably between 4 and 10 microns, or preferably between 5 and 9 microns, and77The diameter at 10thpercentiles d(10) is comprised between 1 and 10 microns, or preferably between 2 and 6 microns, or preferably between 2 and 5 microns, or preferably comprised between 3 and 4 microns, andThe diameter at 50thpercentiles d(50) is comprised between 1 and 20 microns, or preferably between 2 and 12 microns, or preferably comprised between 4 and 10 microns, or preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns, andThe diameter at 90thpercentiles d(90) is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 6 and 25 microns, or preferably between 8 and 20 microns, or preferably between 10 and 18 microns.

[0124] The volume diameter d(50), or the diameter at 50thpercentile, refers to the median diameter of particles in the particle size distribution. According to the commonly accepted definition, the median diameter corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 50% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter greater than and 50% a diameter smaller than d(50).

[0125] The terms d(10) and d(90), or the diameters at 10thand 90thpercentiles respectively, also refer to parameters in the particle size distribution. D(10) corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 10% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter smaller than d(10), and d(90) corresponds to the theoretical opening of a sieve such that 90% of the particles, by volume, have a diameter smaller than d(90). The particle size is measured by laser diffraction.

[0126] The usual method of measuring particle size distribution by laser diffraction for a dry powder involves dispersing the powder sample in a controlled flow of air to ensure individual particles are separated. The dispersed particles are then passed through a laser beam, where they scatter the light at various angles depending on their size. The scattered light is detected by a series of photodetectors positioned at different angles. The intensity and pattern of the scattered light are analyzed to calculate the size distribution of the non-spherical particles. The data is processed to produce a particle size distribution curve, typically presented as volume or number percentages across different size ranges. This method is favored for its rapid analysis, wide size range, and ability to handle diverse materials, providing precise and reproducible measurements of particle size distribution in dry powders.

[0127] In an embodiment, the particle size distribution of the porous starch according to the present invention, includes particles with:a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / ora size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%.

[0128] Accoding to measruments made by the Applicant, the Starrier product from Cargill and N-Zorbit product from Ingredion, for instance the N-ZORBIT® 2144, comprises at least 70% of particles higher than 40 microns, and at least 30% of particles higher than 100 microns

[0129] Reducing sugar content

[0130] In an embodiment, in opposition to the N-ZORBIT® 2144 product described above and containing at least 10% of reducing sugars, especially glucose, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch. Low reducing sugar contents are preferred to allow the porous starch according to the invention to remain stable over time against humidity and Maillard coloration reactions as required for cosmetics.

[0131] To reach the very low level of reducing sugars, the process according to the invention includes a step of collecting the porous starch obtained, for instance by filtration or centrifugation to eliminate the hydrolyzed starch and sugars material , and a washing step to remove free sugars,

[0132] The usual method for measuring reducing sugars in a solution is the method of Bertrand (Bulletin de la Societe Chimique de France, 1906, 35 pp. 1285-1299). Initially, the reducing sugars in a porous starch sample are extracted by soaking the sample in demineralized water, followed by filtration. The starch cake is washed again with demineralized water, and the filtrates are combined and can be concentrated if necessary, such as using a rotary evaporator. When being heated in mixture of cupric sulfate, potassium sodium tartrate, and sodium hydroxide, the reducing sugars reduce the cupric ions to cuprous oxide, which precipitates at the bottom of the flask. The cuprous oxide is then use to reduced ferric sulfate in sulfuric acid, producing ferrous sulfate, which can be quantified by titration using a standardized KMnO solution. The amount of reducing sugars as glucose can be determined based on the volume of KMnC>4.

[0133] Density

[0134] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a bulk density between 0.35 and 0.55 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.5 and 0.7 g / mL.

[0135] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy corn starch having a bulk density between 0.45 and 0.55 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.60 and 0.70 g / mL.

[0136] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch having a bulk density between 0.35 and 0.45 g / mL, and a tapped density between 0.50 and 0.65 g / mL.

[0137] The bulk density is defined as the mass of the many particles of the porous starch divided by the bulk volume. Bulk volume is defined as the total volume the particles occupy, including particle's own volume, inter-particle void volume, and the particles internal pore volume. Bulk density is also sometimes referred to as the “apparent density”.

[0138] Protein content

[0139] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a protein content of less than 3 % by weight relative to the total weight of porous starch, preferably of less than 2 %, more preferably less than 1% by weight, most preferably about 0.10 to 0.5 % by weight.

[0140] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a porous waxy corn starch having less than 2% by weight of protein relative to the total weight of porous starch, or better less than 1% by weight, or less than 0.5% by weight and about 0.10 to 0.25% by weight.

[0141] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a porous waxy rice starch having less than 3% by weight of protein relative to the total weight of porous starch, or better less than 2% by weight, or less than 1% by weight and about 0.1 to 0.5% by weight.

[0142] Absorption capacity

[0143] In an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention has a sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9.0 and 9.5 mL / g.

[0144] In an embodiment, the porous starch according to the invention has a sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.5 and 9.0 mL / g.

[0145] The sebum and sweat absorption capacity of the solid composition is assessed using a modeling approach with readily available substitutes. In this method, sebum is modelled by olive oil, which is chosen for its close mimicry of the lipid composition and viscosity of human sebum. For sweat simulation, saline water is utilized, as it approximates the ionic content and aqueous nature of human perspiration. These model substances are employed to allow for standardized and reproducible measurements of the absorption capabilities of the composition. The performance of the porous starch according to the invention in absorbing these physiological fluids is effectively evaluated through the use of olive oil for sebum modeling and saline water for sweat modeling. This approach enables the absorption capacities across different formulations to be quantified and compared, thereby facilitating the optimization of the oil and moisture control properties of the product.

[0146] Typically, for sebum absorption, the method is as follows:1. In a mortar put 10g of powder formula.2. Add, using a 1mL pipette, 1mL of olive oil and mix with the pestle.3. Repeat steps 2 until a change of state from a powder to a homogeneous bright paste is observed. This corresponds to the exact amount of oil that the powder can absorb.

[0147] Typically, for sweat absorption, the method is as follows:1. In a mortar put 10g of powder.2. Add, using a 1 mL pipette, 1 mL of saline water and mix with the pestle.3. Repeat steps 2 until a change of state from a powder to a paste is observed. This corresponds to the exact amount of water that the powder can absorb.

[0148] Elastic recovery

[0149] In one embodiment, the elastic recovery of said at least one porous starch according to the invention is less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 12.5%, when a compression of 5 kN is applied.

[0150] In another embodiment, the elastic recovery of said at least one porous starch according to the invention is less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 14.5%, when a compression of 10 kN is applied.

[0151] The elastic recovery corresponds to the percentage (%) of axial expansion measured 24 hours after compaction with a given compression force. Axial expansion means the expansion occurring in the same direction as the direction of the compaction.

[0152] The usual method for measuring the elastic recovery of a starch powder involves a mechanical testing process, typically using a compression test. In this method, a known quantity of starch powder is first compacted into a cylindrical or disc-shaped pellet using a controlled force in a compression testing machine. After the initial compression with the specified compression force, the force is released, and the pellet is allowed to recover for 24 hours. The height or thickness of the pellet HO is measured immediately after compression and again after the recovery period of 24 hours, noted H24. The elastic recovery is calculated as the percentage of the initial compression height that the pellet regains during the recovery period, according to the formula: 100 * (H24 - HO) I HO.

[0153] This measurement provides insight into the material's ability to keep its form after compaction, reflecting its elasticity and resilience. A low elastic recovery, for example below 15%, or 10%, or even 5%, corresponds to a material able to keep its compacted shape, whereas a high elastic recovery, for example higher than 20% or 25 %, means a material that recovers its original shape as before compaction.

[0154] Porous waxy rice starch

[0155] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g.

[0156] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:27An average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g,the diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns, and / ora reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0157] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 nT7g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, and / orthe characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:the diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 microns, most preferably comprised between 3 and 4 microns,The diameter d(50) is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(90) is of less than 120 microns, preferably of less than 50 microns, preferably is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 6 and 25 microns, or preferably between 8 and 20 microns, most preferably between 10 and 18 microns, and / ora reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0158] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous rice starch has:an average specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 nT7g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / oran average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 5.0 and 8.0 mm3 / g, and / orthe characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:the diameter d[4;3] is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(10) is of less than 10 microns, most preferably comprised between 3 and 4 microns,The diameter d(50) is of less than 20 microns, most preferably comprised between 5 and 8 microns,The diameter d(90) is of less than 120 microns, preferably of less than 50 microns, preferably is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 6 and 25 microns, or preferably between 8 and 20 microns, most preferably between 10 and 18 microns, and / ora reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / ora degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 7 and 30%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 9 and 16%, and / ora sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9 and 9.5 mL / g, and / ora sebum absorption capacity comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g and / oran elastic recovery of less than 15.0%, preferably less than 14.5%, when a compression of 10kN is applied and / oran elastic recovery of less than 12.5%, preferably of less than 12.0 %, when a compression of 5kN is applied.

[0159] In a preferred embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a rice starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0160] Porous waxy corn starch

[0161] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0162] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a volume-weighted mean diameter d[4;3], measured by laser diffraction granulometry, comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30 microns, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns.

[0163] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein the characteristic diameters d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns,The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, The diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns.

[0164] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein :the particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%.

[0165] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%,preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of around 13%.

[0166] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0167] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a reducing sugar content of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1.5% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0168] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has an average specific surface area, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g.

[0169] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and has a sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g.

[0170] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention has a water solubility of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%. Said solubility is measured by determining the percentage of porous starch which solubilizes in water at 25°C.

[0171] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch according to the invention is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % preferably greater than 99% relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein said porous corn starch has:a specific surface area, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 rrr7g, and / oran average visible pore diameter comprised between 0.05 and 4 microns, preferably between 0.05 and 2 microns, and / ora average pore volume, as measured by nitrogen adsorption sorptometry combined with BJH model, comprised between 2.0 and 5.0 mm3 / g, and / ora water content comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and / ora degree of hydrolysis comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and / orthe characteristic diameters d[4;3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and / orThe diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, or preferably between 4 and 12, or preferably between 5 and 10 microns, or preferably between 8 and 9 microns, and / orThe diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 20 microns, or preferably between 12 and 16 microns, or preferably between 13 and 15 microns, and / orThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, and / ora water solubility of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, and / ora sweat absorption capacity comprised between 9 and 9.5 mL / g, and / ora sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g, and / oran elastic recovery of less than 16%, preferably less than 15.5%, preferably less than 15%, when a compression of 10kN is applied and / oran elastic recovery of less than 15%, preferably less than 14.5%, preferably less than 14%, when a compression of 5kN is applied.

[0172] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, wherein:The characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, and / or.The degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%, and / orThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / orThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, and / or The water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, and / orThe average specific surface area is of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g, and / orThe sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption is comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g,

[0173] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, andThe diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%.

[0174] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferablyless than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably of less than 1.5 % by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0175] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, andThe water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

[0176] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, and / orthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, andThe water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, andThe degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%.

[0177] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, and The diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, andThe water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, andThe degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%, andThe average specific surface area is of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g.

[0178] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch is a corn starch having an amylopectin content greater than 99 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, whereinThe characteristic diameters d[4,3], d(10), d(50) and d(90), as measured by laser diffraction granulometry, are such that:The diameter d[4;3] is comprised between 1 and 40 microns, or preferably between 5 and 30, or preferably between 8 and 25 microns, or preferably between 10 and 22 microns, and The diameter d(10) is comprised between 1 and 15 microns, preferably between 4 and 12, preferably between 5 and 10 microns, preferably between 7 and 9 microns, andThe diameter d(50) is comprised between 5 and 25 microns, preferably between 10 and 20 microns, preferably between 12 and 17 microns, preferably between 13 and 16 microns, andThe diameter d(90) is of less than 250 microns, preferably of less than 100 microns, preferably is comprised between 10 and 40 microns, preferably between 15 and 37 microns, preferably between 21 and 35 microns, preferably between 22 and 30 microns, preferably between 23 and 27 microns, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 40 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 4%, more preferably less than 3%, even more preferably less than 2%, particularly preferably less than 1%, and most preferably less than 0.1%, andthe particle size distribution includes particles with a size greater than 100 microns in a proportion less than 5% relative to the total particle population, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5%, particularly preferably less than 0.1%, and most preferably equal to 0%, andThe reducing sugar content is of less than 3.5% by weight, preferably of less than 2% by weight, preferably around 1.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, andThe water solubility is of less than 10% by weight in water at 25°C, preferably less than 5 %, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1%, andThe water content is comprised between 6 and 15%, preferably between 8 and 13 %, preferably between 9 and 11 %, relative to the total weight of the porous starch, andThe degree of hydrolysis is comprised between 5 and 35%, preferably between 8 and 25%, preferably between 10 and 20%, preferably between 11 and 20% and preferably between 11 and 16%, and preferably a degree of hydrolysis of 13%, andThe average specific surface area is of more than 0.4 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.5 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.6 m2 / g, preferably more than 0.65 m2 / g, and preferably around 0.66 m2 / g, and, andThe sebum absorption capacity or caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption is comprised between 7.75 and 9 mL / g,

[0179] Amount

[0180] In an embodiment, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 1 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 2 to 35% by weight, preferably from 3 to 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0181] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 5 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 8 to 35% by weight, preferably from 10 to 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0182] In an embodiment, when it concerns poured compositions, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0183] In an embodiment, when it concerns a lipstick, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0184] In an embodiment, when it concerns a poured blush, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 16 to 26% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0185] In an embodiment, when it concerns a deodorant stick, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0186] In an embodiment, when it concerns a soap bar, the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, is present in an amount from 19 to 29% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0187] Mixtures of porous starches

[0188] The composition according to the present invention may comprise a single porous starch or a mixture of at least two porous starches as previously described, said starches may be of one botanical origin only, or may be from at least different botanical origins.

[0189] Fatty ingredients

[0190] Fatty ingredients are lipophilic substances used in cosmetic formulations to provide emollient properties, enhance moisturization, and improve skin conditioning. These ingredients can include oils, butters, and waxes, which are derived from plant, animal, or synthetic sources. Fatty ingredients contribute to the texture, spreadability, and sensory attributes of cosmetic products, offering benefits such as skin softening, protection, and nourishment.

[0191] In an embodiment, the at least one fatty ingredient is selected among wax, butter and oil, and mixture thereof.

[0192] Mass Ratio Porous starch / Fatty Ingredients

[0193] In the context of the present invention, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is defined as the ratio of the mass by weight of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to the mass by weight of fatty ingredients, wherein the mass by weight of fatty ingredients is understood as the sum of the masses by weight of all fatty ingredients such as oils, waxes, and butters contained in the composition for cosmetic products.

[0194] In an embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

[0195] In some embodiments, the composition for cosmetic products comprises at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient, wherein the porous starch is dispersed in a fatty phase formed by the at least one fatty ingredient. Depending on the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch to fatty ingredients, the composition for cosmetic products may be in the form of a fluid such as a thick liquid or semi-fluid dispersion such as a paste, or may alternatively be in the form of a non-free-flowing particulate composition, for example a cohesive or tacky particulate composition.

[0196] Accordingly, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch to fatty ingredients may vary depending on the intended application and, in particular, depending on whether the composition for cosmetic products is intended for incorporation into a final cosmetic product that can be a liquid composition, an emulsion such as water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion or solid composition.

[0197] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.025 to 0.95, or from 0.20 to 0.95, preferably from 0.15 to 0.85, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.75.

[0198] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid composition such as poured composition, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 0.95, preferably from 0.15 to 0.85, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.75.

[0199] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid composition such as lipstick, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 0.200, or from 0.020 to 0.150, or from 0.025 to 0.075.

[0200] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid composition such as poured blush, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.28 to 0.38.

[0201] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a deodorant stick, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 0.30.

[0202] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions such as a soap bar, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.52 to 0.85, or from 0.62 to 0.72.

[0203] Wax

[0204] By “wax” is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), having a reversible solid / liquid state change, either by melting, glass transition, or by softening between 40°C and 120°C. Waxes provide emollient properties to cosmetic formulations, contributing to skin conditioning and moisturization.

[0205] In an embodiment, the wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Paraffin Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Wax, Soy Wax, Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Jojoba Wax (Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Berry Wax (Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax), Myrica Fruit Wax (Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax), Palm Wax (Elaeis Guineensis), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene Wax, Montan Wax, Bayberry Wax (Myrica Pubescens Fruit Wax), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Meadowfoam Seed Oil Wax (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Tallow (Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides), Ozokerite Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax), Synthetic Beeswax, Montan Acid Wax, Ceramide Wax, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ceresin Wax, Fischer-Tropsch Wax, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Soy Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lactyl Lactate, Stearyl Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Ester, CIO-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, EthyleneA / A Copolymer, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof.

[0206] In a preferred embodiment, wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (CastorWax), Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof.

[0207] In an embodiment, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 0 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0208] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 0.5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 2.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0209] In an embodiment, when it concerns poured compositions, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, preferably from 9 to 27% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0210] In an embodiment, when it concerns a lipstick, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0211] In an embodiment, when it concerns a poured blush, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0212] In an embodiment, when it concerns a deodorant stick, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0213] In an embodiment, when it concerns a soap bar, the at least one wax is present in an amount from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.f0214l Butter

[0215] By “butter” is meant a lipophilic compound of plant or animal origin, primarily composed of triglycerides, semi-solid at room temperature (25°C), with a melting point typically between 30°C and 45°C. Butters are characterized by a creamy, malleable texture and rich emollient properties, providing intense moisturization and skin conditioning benefits in cosmetic applications.

[0216] The melting point can be measured by any technique known to those skilled in the art. Typically, this can be done by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

[0217] In an embodiment, butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), Cupuacu Butter (Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), ipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Tucuma Butter (Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter), Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta Seed Butter), Aloe Butter (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Hemp Seed Butter (Cannabis Sativa Seed Butter), Olive Butter (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Almond Butter (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Macadamia Butter (Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Soy Butter (Glycine Soja Oil and Hydrogenated Soybean Oil), Pistachio Butter (Pistacia Vera Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Pumpkin Seed Butter (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Watermelon Seed Butter (Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Green Tea Butter (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Lavender Butter (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Rose Butter (Rosa Damascena Flower Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Vanilla Butter (Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and mixtures thereof.

[0218] In a preferred embodiment, butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), illipe Butter(Shores Stenoptera Seed Butter), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and mixtures thereof.

[0219] In an embodiment, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 0 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0220] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 0 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.25 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0221] In an embodiment, when it concerns poured compositions, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 0.5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 21 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0222] In an embodiment, when it concerns a lipstick, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0223] In an embodiment, when it concerns a poured blush, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0224] In an embodiment, when it concerns a deodorant stick, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0225] In an embodiment, when it concerns a soap bar, the at least one butter is present in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0226] Oil

[0227] By 'oil' is meant a lipophilic compound, liquid at room temperature (25°C), primarily composed of triglycerides or esters, with varying degrees of viscosity, that does not undergo phase transition to solid state under normal atmospheric pressure until cooled below 25°C. Oils deliver immediate and penetrating emollient effects.

[0228] In an embodiment, oil is selected among natural oils such as plant oils, essential oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils and mixtures thereof.

[0229] Natural oils:

[0230] Natural oils are derived from various parts of plants, including seeds, nuts, and fruits.

[0231] Natural oils can be chosen among Argan Oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil), Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Avocado Oil (Persea Gratissima Oil), Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil), Coconut Oil (Cocos Nucifera Oil), Olive Oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil), Grapeseed Oil (Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Rosehip Oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil), Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera Biennis Oil), Marula Oil (Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil), Macadamia Oil(Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil), Hemp Seed Oil (Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil), Sea Buckthorn Oil (Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil), Camellia Oil (Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil), Pomegranate Seed Oil (Punica Granatum Seed Oil), Safflower Oil (Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil), Castor Oil (Ricinus Communis Seed Oil), Baobab Oil (Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil), Moringa Oil (Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil), Meadowfoam Seed Oil (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Neem Oil (Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil), Tamanu Oil (Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil), Black Cumin Seed Oil (Nigella Sativa Seed Oil), and Kukui Nut Oil (Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil), and mixtures thereof

[0232] In an embodiment, natural oils are selected from saturated, monoinsaturated, or polyinsaturated oils obtained from plants, fish, krills, animals, or by industrial fermentation, such as omega-3 oils or omega-6 oils, or mixtures thereof. Examples of such oils as squalane, squalene, EPA, DHA or ARA oils.

[0233] Mineral oils:

[0234] Mineral oils are derived from petroleum and are highly refined for cosmetic use.

[0235] Common examples of mineral-derived ingredients used in cosmetic formulations include Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Paraffin Oil, , and Polyisobutene

[0236] Synthetic oils:

[0237] Synthetic oils can be silicone oils, ester oils or hydrocarbon oils.

[0238] Silicone oils can be chosen among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Cyclopentasiloxane (Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Triethylhexanoin, and PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Lauryl Lactate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Lauryl Methacrylate / Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene, Methyl Trimethicone, Dimethiconol, Alkyl Benzoate (and) Propanediol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Triglyceride (Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic), Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Caprylic / Capric / Succinic Triglyceride, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0239] In a preferred embodiment, oil is selected among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene and mixtures thereof.

[0240] In an embodiment, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 0 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0241] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 1 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 2.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0242] In an embodiment, when it concerns poured compositions, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 5 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 14 to 67% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0243] In an embodiment, when it concerns a lipstick, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 25 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0244] In an embodiment, when it concerns a poured blush, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0245] In an embodiment, when it concerns a deodorant stick, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0246] In an embodiment, when it concerns a soap bar, the at least one oil is present in an amount from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0247] Surfactants

[0248] In an embodiment, the composition for products according to the invention further comprises at least one surfactant.

[0249] Surfactants can be of natural origin, derived from the saponification of fats and oils, or of synthetic origin, obtained through various chemical processes.

[0250] Surfactants of natural origin can be chosen among Sodium Palmate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Olivate, Potassium Cocoate, and mixture thereof.

[0251] Surfactants of synthetic origin can be chosen among Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, and mixture thereof.

[0252] In an embodiment, the at least one surfactant is present in an amount from 0.1 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 30 %.

[0253] In an embodiment, when it concerns a soap bar, the at least one surfactant is present in an amount from 5 to 50 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 10 to 30 %.

[0254] Cosmetic product

[0255] As used herein, a "cosmetic product" refers to a formulation designed for application to the human body, particularly the skin or hair, for the purpose of cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance. Such compositions are intended to be physiologically acceptable, meaning they are compatible with the skin and / or its integuments and the hair, have a pleasant color, odor, and feel, and do not cause any unacceptable discomfort (such as stinging or tautness) that would discourage the consumer from using the product.

[0256] In the context of this invention, a "cosmetic product" comprises at least a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, i.e. a composition comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient. These cosmetic products can be in various forms, such as cleansing products, hair care products, oral care products, sun care products, skin care products, make-up products, feminine care products, nail care products, shaving and hair removal products, men’s grooming products, bath and shower products, deodorants and antiperspirants, eye care products and / or hygiene products.

[0257] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 1 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 2 to 25 % by weight, preferably from 2 to 35% by weight, preferably from 3 to 24% by weight;at least one oil in an amount from 0 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 70% by weight;at least one wax in an amount from 0 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight;at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight;at least one surfactant in an amount from 0 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight; andwater in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0258] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch I fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

[0259] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises from 0.1 to 100% of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention.

[0260] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a liquid product comprising from 0.1 to 60 % of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention. In an embodiment, the cosmetic product isa solid product comprising from 60 to 100 % of a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention

[0261] Solid cosmetic product

[0262] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product is a solid cosmetic product.

[0263] “Solid cosmetic product” means the cosmetic product is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). “Solid” means that the cosmetic product has a shape of its own, which is not, or at least never exactly, the shape of the container that holds it. “Solid” encompasses the two possible alternatives of the solid state, which are “compact solid” and “divided solid”. The “compact solid” does not flow under its own weight, and it conserves its form during storage. The “divided solid” is constituted of individual particles having their own individual shapes, but the ensemble made up of the particles has no shape and can flow. In the context of the present invention, the solid cosmetic product refers specifically to “compact solid” compositions such as balms, sticks, syndet, soaps, shampoo bars, and lipsticks. This compact solid cosmetic product is essentially anhydrous, although it may contain up to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the solid cosmetic product, of water. In an embodiment, the water is present in the solid cosmetic product in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0264] In an embodiment, when it concerns solid compositions, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 5 to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 8 to 35% by weight, preferably from 10 to 24% by weight; at least one oil in an amount from 1 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 2.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 70% by weight;at least one wax in an amount from 0.5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 2.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight; at least one butter in an amount from 0 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0.25 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 35% by weight; at least one surfactant in an amount from 0 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 30% by weight; andwater in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0265] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch I fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 0.95, preferably from 0.15 to 0.85, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.75.

[0266] In an embodiment, the solid cosmetic product is chosen from balms, sticks, solid bars, solidified emulsions, concealers and bases, mascaras, lipstick, styling products, care products, contouring and modeling products and pencils.

[0267] These solid cosmetic products can be obtained by any technique known to those skilled in the art, particularly through pouring or extrusion processes. The manufacturing method may be selected according to the desired product characteristics, formulation requirements, and production scale.

[0268] Balms are soft, oil-based formulations without water that melt upon contact with skin, providing moisturizing and protective benefits.

[0269] Balms can be selected among lip balms, cleansing balms, body balms, healing balms, cuticle balms, multi-purpose balms, skin treatment balms, after-sun balms, baby balms, eye balms, hand balms, foot balms, hair styling balms, beard balms, massage balms, perfume balms, cooling balms, exfoliating balms, highlighting balms, primer balms, anti-aging balms, scar treatment balms, sunscreen balms, hair smoothing balms, nail treatment balms, makeup removing balms, wound healing balms, hair texturizing balms, anti-redness balms.

[0270] Sticks are solid formulations cast in tubular or cylindrical packaging allowing for direct application to skin. Maintain their shape at room temperature but soften slightly upon contact with skin for easy transfer of product.

[0271] Sticks can be chosen among deodorant sticks, foundation sticks, concealer sticks, contour sticks, highlighter sticks, blush sticks, eyeshadow sticks, lip color sticks, perfume sticks, sunscreen sticks, cooling sticks, facial cleansing sticks, exfoliating sticks, hair color sticks, setting sticks, primer sticks, mask sticks, treatment sticks, anti-blemish sticks, moisturizing sticks, makeup remover sticks, brow filler sticks, hair styling sticks, insect repellent sticks, lip scrub sticks, after-shave sticks, scar treatment sticks, facial oil control sticks, pore minimizing sticks, wrinkle treatment sticks, mattifying sticks, lip plumping sticks, hair fragrance sticks, nail treatment sticks.

[0272] Solid bars are dense, compact formulations typically rectangular in shape, designed to be used with water or friction. Contain minimal packaging and often utilize surfactants orcleansing agents.

[0273] Solid bars can be chosen among soap bars, syndet bars, cleansing bars, shampoo bars, conditioner bars, body wash bars, facial cleansing bars, exfoliating bars, beard wash bars, feminine hygiene bars.

[0274] Solidified emulsions are water-in-oil or oil-in-water mixtures that have been stabilized and solidified through specific structuring agents. Provide the benefits of creams in a solid format.

[0275] Solidified emulsions can be chosen among solid moisturizers, solid foundations, solid serums, solid night creams, solid day creams, solid eye creams, solid primers, solid sunscreens, solid hand creams, solid body lotions, solid foot creams, solid hair treatments, solid masks, solid after-shave, solid BB creams, solid CC creams, solid anti-aging treatments, solid makeup removers, solid body butters, solid self-tanners, solid face oils, solid highlighting creams, solid concealers, solid lip treatments, solidanti-cellulite treatments, solid scar treatments, solid skin-firming creams, solid dark spot treatments, solid hair serum bars.

[0276] Concealers and bases are chosen among solid concealer, solid under-eye concealer, solid color corrector, solid color corrector, solid makeup base, solid foundation

[0277] Pencils are extruded formulations encased in wood or plastic casings, designed for precise application. Combine waxes, oils, and pigments to create varying degrees of hardness and payoff.

[0278] Pencils are chosen among lip pencils, eye pencils, eyebrow pencils, concealer pencils, highlighter pencils, contour pencils, corrector pencils, kohl pencils, waterproof pencils, anti-blemish pencils, hair root touch-up pencils, sun protection pencils, primer pencils and matte finish pencils.

[0279] Mascaras and lash products can be chosen among solid mascara.

[0280] Lipsticks, such as solid lipstick.

[0281] Styling products, such as solid styling pomade, solid styling gum, solid dry shampoo, solid hair dye.

[0282] Care products, such as solid deodorant, solid sunscreen, solid perfume, solid aftershave, solid shaving cream, solid self-tanner, solid serum, solid moisturizer, solid oil, solid anti-acne treatment, solid eye contour care, solid night cream, solid sleeping mask, solid anti-dandruff treatment, solid healing care, solid hair mask.

[0283] Contouring and modeling products, such as solid contouring product, solid mattifier, solid makeup fixer.

[0284] In an embodiment, the solid cosmetic composition is not a free-flowing composition.

[0285] In an embodiment, the solid cosmetic product is a poured product, referring to any solid cosmetic product as described in the present patent application that can be obtained through pouring process.

[0286] In an embodiment, when it concerns poured product, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 8 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 24% by weight; at least one oil in an amount from 5 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 14 to 67% by weight;at least one wax in an amount from 5 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 7 to 30% by weight, preferably from 9 to 27% by weight;at least one butter in an amount from 0.5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 2 to 21% by weight; and;water in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0287] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 0.95, preferably from 0.15 to 0.85, more preferably from 0.05 to 0.75.

[0288] In an embodiment, the solid cosmetic product is a lipstick, preferably a poured lipstick.

[0289] In an embodiment, when it concerns a lipstick, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 25 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product; andwater in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0290] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.025 to 0.075.

[0291] In an embodiment, the solid composition is blush, preferably a poured blush.

[0292] In an embodiment, when it concerns a poured blush, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 16 to 26% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 10 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product; andwater in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0293] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.28 to 0.38.

[0294] In an embodiment, the solid cosmetic product is a deodorant stick, preferably a poured deodorant stick.

[0295] In an embodiment, when it concerns a deodorant stick, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 15 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product; andwater in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0296] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.20 to 0.30.

[0297] In an embodiment, the solid cosmetic product is a soap bar, preferably a poured soap bar.

[0298] In an embodiment, when it concerns a soap bar, the cosmetic product comprises:at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch in an amount from 19 to 29% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one oil in an amount from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one wax in an amount from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one butter in an amount from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product;at least one surfactant in an amount from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 10 to 30% by weight; andwater in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, and even more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.

[0299] In this embodiment, the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch I fatty ingredients is from 0.62 to 0.72.

[0300] In all these previous described embodiments, the at least one porous starch has an amylopectin content preferably greater than 99 %.

[0301] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product consists essentially of the composition for products according to the invention.

[0302] “Essentially” means that the cosmetic product contains the composition for cosmetic products according to the invention as its main or primary component, allowing for minor additional ingredients, such as dyes, pigments, perfumes or preservatives, or impurities that do not materially affect the nature of the product. It implies that while the product may contain small amounts of other substances, the composition according to the invention constitutes the fundamental and predominant part of the product. Those minor additional ingredients may be present in the cosmetic product at a weight content lower than 5 % relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, or lower than 4%, or lower than 3%, or lower than 2%, or lower than 1 %, or lower than 0.5%, or lower than 0.25%.

[0303] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product consists of the composition for cosmetic products according to the invention.

[0304] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises at least a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention, i.e. a composition comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80% relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient, and at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient.

[0305] In an embodiment, the cosmetic product comprises further other ingredients chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0306] In an embodiment, the at least one cosmetically acceptable ingredient is chosen from fillers, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof.

[0307] Water

[0308] In an embodiment, water is present in an amount from 0 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product, preferably from 0 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0 to 2% by weight,relative to the total weight of the cosmetic product. In a preferred embodiment, the composition does not comprise water.

[0309] Use

[0310] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a structuring agent.

[0311] As used herein, the term “structuring agent” means a component that, when incorporated into a cosmetic formulation, provides or improves the hardness and / or cohesiveness of the final product. In solid cosmetic products, structuring agents allow for the incorporation of fatty ingredients while maintaining the desired physical characteristics such as hardness and / or cohesiveness, preventing the product from deforming under its own weight at room temperature or during application. These agents contribute to the overall stability of the cosmetic product and can influence application properties without necessarily altering the beneficial effects of other ingredients like fatty ingredients.

[0312] A structuring agent as defined herein is distinct from a porous starch used merely as a carrier for oily ingredients, for example to absorb, store, and subsequently release oily ingredients in the form of a free-flowing powder. Such a carrier function does not, by itself, provide or improve the hardness and / or cohesiveness of a solid cosmetic product and, as a result, is not regarded as a structuring agent within the meaning of the present description. Likewise, a bulking agent, namely a compound that increases bulk or volume without conferring hardness and / or cohesiveness to the cosmetic product, is not considered a structuring agent as defined herein.

[0313] Typically, in the case of solid bar such as soap bar, hardness measures its resistance to penetration or deformation under applied pressure. Adequate hardness is essential for the soap to maintain its shape and not wear out too quickly when exposed to water.

[0314] Typically, in the case of stick, such as deodorant stick, cohesiveness measures how particles of the stick adhere to each other. It reflects the product's ability to disintegrate when applied on the skin. Appropriate cohesion is essential to ensure the stick deposition on the skin and its uniform application.

[0315] In some embodiments, the structural contribution provided by the porous starch is assessed in view of the intended product format and mode of application. Thus, for a solid cosmetic product, and particularly for a stick, the relevant structural properties may include a balance between hardness, cohesiveness and the ability of the product to transfer onto the skin during use. Accordingly, a structuring effect does not necessarily require a systematic increase in cohesiveness in absolute terms, provided that the product retains sufficient integrity for handling and application while exhibiting the desired deposition properties.

[0316] Typically, in the case of a poured blush, hardness measures its resistance to penetration or deformation under applied pressure. Adequate hardness is essential for the poured blush to maintain its shape and not wear out too quickly when picked-up.

[0317] Typically, in the case of lipstick, hardness is the resistance to penetration or indentation. For lipstick, this can be measured by applying force to push an object into the product. Adequate hardness is necessary to ensure that lipstick does not deform under light or normal pressure.

[0318] In an embodiment, the invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch to improve the hardness and / or the cohesiveness of a cosmetic product.

[0319] In an embodiment, the invention also relates the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch to improve the hardness of solid bars and preferably of soap bars, syndet bars, pongo, cleansing bars, shampoo bars, conditioner bars, body wash bars, facial cleansing bars, exfoliating bars, beard wash bars, feminine hygiene bars.

[0320] In an embodiment, the invention also relates the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch to improve the cohesiveness of a stick, such as deodorant stick.

[0321] In an embodiment, the invention also relates the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch to improve the hardness of a poured cosmetic product such as poured blush.

[0322] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as a structuring emollient complex or structuring emollient system.

[0323] A “structuring emollient complex” ora “structuring emollient system” refers to a functional cosmetic ingredient system comprising a structuring agent combined with one or more fatty ingredients (such as oils, butters, and / or waxes), which simultaneously provides both structural benefits such as hardness and / or cohesiveness and emollient properties. This complex improves hardness and / or cohesiveness of solid cosmetic formulations while delivering moisturizing, skin conditioning, and comfort benefits. The structuring emollient complex allows for the incorporation of significant amounts of fatty ingredients into solid cosmetic compositions without compromising their mechanical properties and can be readily integrated into various cosmetic products to enhance both performance and sensorial characteristics.

[0324] As used herein, the term “emollient” refers broadly to a property or effect capable of improving the feel and appearance of keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, or eyelashes, by providing one ormore of softness, smoothness, suppleness, flexibility, comfort, conditioning, lubrication, reduced roughness, reduced dryness sensation, reduced tightness sensation, improved spreadability, and improved gliding during application. In some embodiments, an emollient effect may be perceived as a softer, more cushioned, less dry, less powdery, or more comfortable sensory feel after application. The emollient effect may result from the presence of one or more fatty ingredients.

[0325] The structuring emollient complex as defined herein is distinct from a porous starch used to absorb, store, and deliver oily ingredients in the form of a free-flowing powder. Such a material may function as a carrier for oily ingredients, but does not, by itself, structure a solid cosmetic composition or improve its hardness and / or cohesiveness. Accordingly, such a material is not regarded as a structuring emollient system within the meaning of the present description. Likewise, a bulking agent, namely a compound that increases bulk or volume without providing structural benefits to the cosmetic product, is not considered a structuring emollient system as defined herein.

[0326] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollient effect and improve hardness and / or cohesiveness.

[0327] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients as an agent conferring emollient properties and hardness and / or cohesiveness properties to cosmetic products.

[0328] Use for increasing volume of hair and / or controlling or reducing hair frizz

[0329] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to the use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch as a volume and / or anti-frizz or “frizz control” agent of a cosmetic product.

[0330] A volume agent is a cosmetic ingredient that increases the overall perceived body of the hair ensemble.

[0331] An “anti-frizz” or “frizz-control” agent is a cosmetic ingredient that maintains the alignment of hair fiber and that prevents or reduce the disordered protruding of fibers under varying humidity conditions.

[0332] In an embodiment, the invention relates to the use of at least one porous starch having content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch as an agent conferring volume to hair, and / or controlling or reducing hair frizz.

[0333] In some embodiments, the cosmetic effects described herein for hair, including volume increase and / or control or reduction of frizz, may be obtained in addition to the structuring contribution of the porousstarch. Thus, in hair compositions comprising the porous starch and one or more fatty ingredients, the porous starch may contribute not only to formulation texture and / or structure, but also to a more favorable cosmetic appearance of the hair, including increased volume and / or reduced frizz.

[0334] In this context, the expressions emollient-volume complex, emollient-anti-frizz complex, and emollient-volume-anti-frizz complex may be understood as designating respective combinations capable of providing an emollient effect together with one or more additional hair benefits. These expressions may describe combined effects obtainable in a composition comprising the porous starch and one or more fatty ingredients, and need not be understood as excluding the texturizing and / or structuring contribution of the porous starch in such composition.

[0335] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a use of a porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as an emollientvolume complex, or as a emollient-anti-frizz complex, or as an emollient-volume-anti-frizz complex.

[0336] An “emollient-volume complex” is a cosmetic ingredient system that combines a volume agent (the waxy porous starch according to the invention) with fatty ingredients. This complex delivers dual functionality by providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits to the skin while simultaneously increasing the volume of hair.

[0337] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollient effect and a volume effect to the hair.

[0338] An “emollient-anti-frizz complex” is a cosmetic ingredient system that combines an anti-frizz agent (the waxy porous starch according to the invention) with fatty ingredients. This complex delivers dual functionality by providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits to the skin while simultaneously controlling or reducing hair frizz.

[0339] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollient effect and a control or reduction effect of hair frizz.

[0340] An “emollient-volume-anti-frizz complex” is a cosmetic ingredient system that combines a volume and anti-frizz agent (the waxy porous starch according to the invention) with fatty ingredients. This complex delivers dual functionality by providing moisturizing and conditioning benefits to the skin while simultaneously increasing the volume of hair and controlling or reducing hair frizz.

[0341] The present invention also relates to the use of a composition comprising and preferably consisting of porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99% and fatty ingredients to simultaneously provide an emollient effect and a volume and anti-frizz or frizz-control effect to hair.

[0342] Hence, in an embodiment, the present invention also relates to a composition for cosmetic products according to the invention comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferentially greater than 85%, preferably greater than 90%, preferably greater than 95%, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as a structuring emollient system, wherein the at least one porous starch further increases hair volume, controls or reduces hair frizz, or both increases hair volume and controls or reduces hair frizz. In some embodiments, the disclosure also relates to a cosmetic product, in particular a hair cosmetic product, comprising such a composition for cosmetic products.

[0343] All the previous described embodiments are encompassed by these aspects.

[0344] Examples

[0345] Throughout examples 1 to 3, three compositions were tested each time to highlight the effect of a porous waxy starch. In all cases, there was a placebo formula, a formula with a comparative ingredient: a native starch, and a formula with a porous waxy starch.

[0346] The comparative ingredient is a native corn starch, not waxy (amylopectin content comprised between 72 and 76% relative to the total weight of the starch) nor porous. The ingredient “Beaute by Roquette® ST 005” (named BrR ST 005 in the following examples) was used. The Caprylic I capric triglycerides absorption is of 65 mL / 100g.

[0347] The porous waxy corn starch used in the following examples is the ingredient “Beaute by Roquette® ST 305” (named BbR ST 305 in the following examples). Beaute by Roquette® ST 305 possesses the following characteristics:

[0348] [Table 1]BbR ST 005 BbR ST 305Amylopectin content 72-76 > 99%wtCaprylic / capric triglycerides absorption 65 mL / 100g 70 mL / 100gd[4,3] 15.8 pm 13.7 pmd(10) 8.21 pm 7,38 pmd(50) 14.7 pm 15,85 pmd(90) 25.3 pm 24,79 pmParticles with a diameter > 40 microns 0.28 % <0.1%Particles with a diameter > 100 microns 0 % 0 %Hydrolysis degree 0 % 13 %Water content 12.5 %wt 9,5 %wtReducing sugars < 0.2 % 1,1 % wtAverage specific surface area by BET (BJH 0,03 m2 / g 0,66 m2 / gmodel)

[0349] Wt means relative to the total weight of t he porous starch.

[0350] Example 1 : Structurizinq Effect of Porous waxy starch in Bar Soap Formulations

[0351] This study demonstrates the structuring effect of porous waxy corn starch, which enables the incorporation of fatty substances for an emollient effect while maintaining product structure. Three bar soap formulations were tested:TO-055-010: Formula according to the invention comprising porous waxy starch (BbR ST 305)TO-055-015: Comparative formula comprising native corn starch (BbR ST 005) - TO-055-016: Placebo

[0352] The formulations are described in the table 2 below:

[0353] [Table 2]Placebo Phase INCI name Commercial name Supplier %W / W%W / WA sodium cocoyl isothionate jordapon SCI BASF 45,00 59,21huile de macadamiaB Macadamia oil Interchimie 15,00 19,73raffineeObject of the comparative (BbR ST 305 or BbR SI ’ 005)C 24,00 0D beurre de karite beurre de karite Cooper 3,00 3,95SensientE D&C red 17 D&C red 17 0,001 0,001beautyTocopherol, HelianthusF Cosphaderm T-70 Cosphatec 0,20 0,26Annuus Seed OilStearinerieG C10-18 Triglycerides DUB CIRE H1 / MB 11,80 15,53DuboisL.R.Flavours &H Happy Beach CND Fragrances 0,999 1,319IndustriesS.p.A.

[0354] No ad ive ingredient was included in phase C for the placebo formula. The 24% relative to the tota weight of the composition of native starch or porous waxy starch has been distributed proportionally across all other ingredients to reach 100%. The proportions are indicated in the "Placebo W / W column of the Table 2 hereinafter.

[0355] The formulations were obtained as follows:1 - Mix A to obtain a fine powder2- Mix B+C to obtain a paste and add this into phase A3- Add D and E and heat to 80°C until homogeneous aspect4- Add F5- Add G and H before pouring the soaps

[0356] Hardness protocols

[0357] A texturometer TA1 from LLOYD Instruments (available from Ametek) was used to determine the textural properties of cosmetic formulations. The operating parameters were the following: direction : compression; preload / stress: 0.0100 N; preload / stress speed: 10 mm / s; speed: 1 mm / s; limit: 19.0 mm; load cell rating: 20.0 N.

[0358] Hardness Results

[0359] Hardness measurements (N) revealed:- TO-055-010 (ST 305): 1.84 N- TO-055-015 (ST 005): 1.43 N- TO-055-016 (Placebo): 0.86 N

[0360] Analysis of Hardness Properties

[0361] The hardness of soap measures its resistance to penetration or deformation under applied pressure. Adequate hardness is essential for the soap to maintain its shape and not wear out too quickly when exposed to water.

[0362] The results demonstrate a significant advantage of the invention formula comprising waxy porous corn starch (TO-055-010), which maintains excellent hardness despite containing approximately 30% waxes, butters, and oils. This superior hardness compared to comparative formulations highlights the effective structuring capabilities of waxy porous corn starch.

[0363] Foam Quality Testing Protocol

[0364] Structuring agents can affect foam properties by interacting with surfactants. Foam height was measured using the following protocol:1. Weigh 150g of water in a 400 mL beaker (reaching 4cm height)2. Place a soap sample (about 15 grams)3. Stir with a small defloculator at room temperature, increasing speed according to the following agitation profile(table 3)[Table 3]Time (min) Speed (rpm)0 5010 10020 20030 40055 60070 850

[0365] At the end of testing, foam height and disintegration percentage were evaluated.

[0366] Foam and Disintegration Results

[0367] [Table 4]Sample Disintegration (%) Foam Height (mm)Comparative 98% 5Product B 96% 7Placebo 86% 7

[0368] Key Benefits

[0369] Enhanced Foaming Effect: Formula comprising porous waxy corn starch demonstrates superior foam height (7mm) compared to the comparative formula comprising native starch (5mm), similar to the foam height obtained with a placebo.

[0370] Optimized Disintegration Rate: While the comparative formula comprising native corn starch shows slightly higher disintegration than formula comprising waxy porous corn starch, the formula comprising waxy corn starch strikes an ideal balance between structure and controlled disintegration. This is particularly advantageous for bath products such as bath bombs or bath salts, where controlled disintegration is desirable.

[0371] Foam Stability: Formula comprising porous waxy corn starch maintains excellent foam. Without being bound by any theory, the inventors suppose that the excellent foam properties are due to the mechanical effect of waxy porous corn starch through friction with surface roughness and increased interaction with surfactants, compared with formula comprising native corn starch and placebo.

[0372] Structural Integrity with High Emollient Content: Most significantly, formula comprising porous waxy corn starch maintains superior hardness (1.84 N) despite its high fatty substance content, demonstrating the effective structuring capabilities of porous waxy corn starch.

[0373] The results clearly demonstrate that waxy porous corn starch, when combined with fatty substances, creates a structuring emollient system that provides hardness, firmness, and structural integrity while delivering emollient properties. Such a composition would constitute a valuable cosmetic ingredient complex enabling formulators to create solid products with emollient benefits without the traditional drawbacks.

[0374] The superior hardness measurements (1.84 N) of the TO-055-010 formulation, despite its high content of emollients (approximately 30% of waxes, oils and butters), confirm that this structuring system effectively overcomes the typical softening challenges associated with high emollient content in solid cosmetic products.

[0375] Example 2: Structuring Effect of Porous waxy starch in Deodorant stick Formulations

[0376] This study evaluates the structuring effect of porous waxy corn starch in deodorant stick formulations. Three formulations were tested:

[0377] TO-002-021: Formula according to the invention (containing porouxwaxy corn starch ST 305)

[0378] TO-002-023: Comparative formula (containing native corn starch ST005)

[0379] TO-002-022: Placebo

[0380] The formulations are described in the table 5 below:

[0381] [Table 5]Phase INCI name Commercial Name Placebo %\NI\N (Supplier)%W / WA Cocos nucifera (coconut) Lipovol C76 (Vantage) 18.75 15oilButyrospermum parkii Cetiol SB 45 (BASF) 25 20(shea) butterMyristyl myristate Cetiol MM (BASF) 10 8Copernicia cerifera cera Carnauba wax T 1 (Koster 10 8Keuneun)Cera alba Beeswax white (Koster 12.5 10Keuneun)Isodecyl neopentanoate DUB VCI 10 (Stearinerie 16.75 13.4Dubois)Tocopherols (mixed), Bioxan T50 (BTSA) 0.375 0.285 helianthus annuus seedoilB Object of the comparative (BbR ST 305 or BbRST 0 20005)C Cyclodextrin Beaute by Roquette® CD 6.25 5100 (Roquette)D Fragrance Eau fraiche VR (L.R. 0.360 0.3Flavours & FragrancesIndustries)E Cl 15985 SunCroma® FD&C Yellow 0.015 0.0156 al lake C70-5270(SunChemical)

[0382] No active ingredient was included in phase B for placebo formula. The 20% relative to the total weight of the of native starch or porous waxy starch has been distributed proportionally across all other ingredients to reach 100%. The proportions are indicated in the "Placebo W / W" column of the Table 5 hereinafter.

[0383] Process

[0384] Formulas have been prepared as follows:1 / Weight and heat phase A up to 80°C under gentle agitation (500 rpm - during 10 min), 2 / Cool down at 70°C and add phase B into A under medium agitation (1000 rpm - during 10 min),3 / Then add phase C, D and E at 70°C while stirring (1000 rpm - during 10 min), 4 / Cool down at 60°C and pour the formula into packaging,5 / Allow to cool down in the packaging.

[0385] The product is a beige stick.

[0386] Property Measured

[0387] Cohesiveness (N): Cohesiveness measures how particles of the deodorant stick adhere to each other. It reflects the product's ability to remain intact without disintegrating when handled. Good cohesion is essential to ensure the stick doesn't break easily and applies uniformly.

[0388] Protocols for measuring cohesiveness

[0389] A texturometer TA1 from LLOYD Instruments (available from Ametek) was used to determine the textural properties of cosmetic formulations. The operating parameters were the following: direction: compression; preload / stress: 0.0100 N; preload / stress speed: 10 mm / s; speed: 1 mm / s; limit: 19.0 mm; load cell rating: 20.0 N.

[0390] Results

[0391] [Table 6]Sample Cohesiveness (N)TC-002-022 (Placebo) -0.25TC-002-023 (ST 005) -0.25TC-002-021 (ST 305) -0.17

[0392] Analysis of Results

[0393] Cohesiveness

[0394] Deodorant comprising porous waxy corn starch shows inferior cohesiveness (-0.17 N) compared to both the placebo and comparative formula comprising native starch (-0.25 N). This lowered cohesion indicates that the deodorant stick containing porous waxy corn starch will better transfer to skin during application.

[0395] Measurement of the quantity of matter deposited on a paper substrate

[0396] The quantity of deodorant deposited on an inert support after 25 back-and-forths was evaluated for the three formulations of deodorant (results in following table): the quantity of deodorant deposited bythe deodorant formulation comprising ST 305 was about two times higher than the placebo and the ST 305, showing the better transfert of the deodorant to the skin.

[0397] [Table 7]TC-002-022 TC-002-023 TC-002-021 (Placebo) (ST 005) (ST 305) Weight of the support 4.32 4.4 4.8 Weight of the support after deodorant was applied4.8 4.8 5.7by 25 back-and-forthsWeight of deodorant deposited 0.48 0.4 0.9

[0398] Visibility of the deposits on the skin

[0399] the comparative deodorant comprising native starch creates visible white deposits after application, which is not wanted for the cosmetic application as the visual aspect must be as invisible as possible. In contrast, the deodorant comprising porous waxy corn starch creates deposits which are from less visible, to not visible at all.

[0400] Conclusion

[0401] The results demonstrate that porous waxy corn starch is an effective structuring agent for deodorant applications, providing an optimal cohesiveness, and minimizing the visibility of the deposit on the skin. This performance is particularly remarkable considering the formulation contains a very high proportion of fatty substances (more than 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of waxes, butterand oils).

[0402] This innovative combination of porous waxy corn starch with emollients provides an excellent structuring emollient system for solid cosmetic product formulations, delivering emollient properties while enhancing product structure. Such a system enables formulators to create solid deodorant products with improved structural properties, superior application characteristics, and enhanced emollient benefits without compromising stability or appearance.

[0403] Example 3: Structuring Effect of Porous waxy starch in poured blush Formulations

[0404] This study evaluates the structuring effect of a porous waxy corn starch in poured blush formulations. Three formulations were tested:

[0405] MU-002-009: Formula according to the invention comprising porous waxy corn starch (ST 305)

[0406] MU-002-010: Comparative formula comprising native corn starch (ST 005)

[0407] MU-002-011: Placebo

[0408] The formulas are described in the table below:

[0409] [Table 8]Phase INCI name Commercial Supplier Placebo %\NI\N name %W / WA Isononyl isononanoate Lanol 99 Seppic 14.16 11.2 Isoamyl Laurate Dermofeel Sensolv Evonik 18.58 14.7 C15-19 Alkane Emogreen L15 Seppic 19.60 15.5 Butyrospermum Parkii Shea Butter Jan dekker 3.29 2.6 (Shea) ButterCera alba Beeswax Koster Keunen 6.57 5.2 Copernicia Cerifera Carnauba wax Koster Keunen 5.44 4.3 (Carnauba) WaxCaprylic / Capric Labrafac® CC Gattefosse 3.16 2.5 TriglycerideTocopherol Bioxan T 50 Masso 0.25 0.2 B Mica ImerCare® 6M Imerys 13.27 10.5 Object of the comparative ST 305 or ST 005 Roquette 0 21.0 Cl 77491 (and) Unipure red LC 381 Sensient 0.76 0.6 Hydrogenated Lecithin HLCCl 77891 (and) Unipure white LC Sensient 8.85 7.0 Hydrogenated Lecithin 981 HLCSynthetic Fluorphlogopite INTENZA® Electric Sun chemical 4.17 3.3 (and) Titanium Dioxide Pink C91 -4235(and) Red 28 LakeCl 75470 (and) Cl 77891 Covapearl Pure Sensient 1.90 1.4 (and) Mica Carmine 438

[0410] No active ingredient was included in phase B for pacebo formula. The 21% relative to the tota weight of the composition of native starch or porous waxy starch has been distributed proportionally across all other ingredients to reach 100%. The proportions are indicated in the "Placebo W / W column of the Table 8 hereinafter.

[0411] The formulas were obtained according to the following protocol:1 / Blend all ingredients of phase A and heat at 80°C under agitation with defloculator2 / Add successively ingredients of phase B and mix until obtain homogenous formula at 80°C.

[0412] Protocols for measuring hardness

[0413] A texturometer TA1 from LLOYD Instruments (available from Ametek) was used to determine the textural properties of cosmetic formulations. The operating parameters were the following: direction : compression; preload / stress: 0.0100 N; preload / stress speed: 10 mm / s; speed: 1 mm / s; limit: 2.7 mm; load cell rating: 20.0 N.

[0414] Key Properties Measured

[0415] Hardness is the resistance to penetration or indentation. Fora cast blush, this can be measured by applying a force to press an object into the product. Appropriate hardness is necessary to ensure that the blush does not deform under light or normal pressure and maintain its shape during use. The hardness also relates to the quantity of blush that can be picked up: the higher the hardness is, the lower the amount of blush is picked-up.

[0416] Results

[0417] [Table 9]Sample Hardness (N)MU-002-011 (Placebo) 4.907MU-002-010 (Comparative) 6.177MU-002-009 (Product B) 6.807

[0418] Analysis of Results

[0419] Hardness

[0420] Poured blush comprising porous waxy corn starch exhibits the highest hardness (6.807 N), providing enhanced structural stability. This represents a 39% increase compared to the placebo (4.907 N) and a 10% improvement over the comparative formula (6.177 N). The optimal hardness ensures the blush maintains its shape during use while not wearing out too quickly when picked-up.

[0421] Conclusion

[0422] The results clearly demonstrate that porous waxy corn starch is an adequate structuring agent for poured blush applications, providing superior hardness. This superior performance is particularly remarkable considering the formulation contains a very high proportion of fatty substances (more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of waxes, oils and butters).

[0423] This innovative combination of porous waxy corn starch with emollients provides an excellent structuring emollient system for solid cosmetic product formulations, delivering emollient properties while significantly enhancing product structure. The dramatic improvements in hardness (10-39% increase) demonstrate that this system enables formulators to create poured blush products with substantially improved structural properties, enhanced application characteristics, and superior emollient benefits without compromising stability.

[0424] Example 4: Structuring effect of a lipstick

[0425] This study presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in lipstick formulations. Two different lipstick formulations were evaluated: a comparative formula MU-057-006 comprising native starch (ST 005), and the test lipstick formula MU-057-007 containing porous waxy corn starch (ST 305).

[0426] The formulas are described in the table 10 below:

[0427] [Table 10]MU-057-006 ST 005 / MU-057-007 ST 305INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER % W / W PHASE Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax Sunflower wax Koster 5 A Keunen Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Candelilla wax Koster 5 Keunen Cera Alba Beeswax white Koster 5 Keunen Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter Mango kernel butter Jan 8.5RBD Dekker Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil Huile de coco raffinee Cooper 8.5 Object of the comparative : BbR ST 005 or BbR ST 305 Roquette 10 Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Covapate Uniwhite Sensient 22.7 Cl 77891 (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid LC9781Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil (and) Covapate Unired LC Sensient 19.3Cl 15850 3703Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil Huile de ricin Cooper 16

[0428] Process

[0429] Melt and blend all ingredients a 80°C

[0430] After homogenous blend is obtained, pour in the lipstick mould previously warmed at 45°C.

[0431] After 5 minutes at room temperature, put the mould in a freezer at -18°C for 15 minutes.

[0432] Remove the bullet from the mould and insert it in a retractable tube.

[0433] Protocols for measuring hardness

[0434] A texturometer TA1 from LLOYD Instruments (available from Ametek) was used to determine the textural properties of cosmetic formulations. The operating parameters were the following: direction : compression; preload / stress: 0.0100 N; preload / stress speed: 10 mm / s; speed: 1 mm / s; limit: 2.7 mm; load cell rating: 20.0 N.

[0435] Key Properties Measured

[0436] Hardness is the resistance to penetration or indentation. For a lipstick, this can be measured by applying force to push an object into the product. Adequate hardness is necessary to ensure that the lipstick does not deform under light or normal pressure.

[0437] Results

[0438] [Table 11]Sample Hardness (N)MU-057-006 (Comparative - ST 005) 2.47MU-057-007 (ST 305) 2.61

[0439] Analysis of Results

[0440] The comparative sample MU-057-007 has a hardness of 2.47 N, while the product (MU-057-006) comprising a waxy porous corn starch demonstrates a higher hardness value of 2.61 N, indicating improved resistance to deformation under pressure.

[0441] This superior performance is particularly remarkable considering the formulation contains a very high proportion of fatty substances (90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of waxes, oils and butters). This innovative combination of porous waxy corn starch with emollients provides an excellent structuring emollient system for solid cosmetic product formulations, delivering emollient properties while significantly enhancing product structure. The improvements in hardness (5.7% increase) demonstrate that this system enables formulators to create lipstick with substantially improved hardness, and superior emollient benefits without compromising stability.

[0442] Example 5: volume and anti-frizz effect results in solid bar shampoo

[0443] This study presents the results of testing porous waxy corn starch in a solid bar shampoo formulation, reference TO-055, according to table 10, on natural curly hair strands. Three different versions of this solid bar shampoo formulation were evaluated: a placebo formula (TO-055-016), a comparative formula comprising native corn starch Beaute by Roquette ST 005 a.k.a. “BbR ST 005” (TO-055-015), and the test formula containing porous waxy corn starch Beaute by Roquette ST 305 a.k.a. “BbR ST 305” (TO-055-010).

[0444] [Table 10]TO-055Phase INGREDIENT (INCI) COMMERCIAL NAME SUPPLIER %W / W A Sodium Cocoyl Jordapon SCI BASF 45.00 IsethionateB Macadamia Integritolia Refined Macadamia Oil Interchimie 15.00 Seed OilC Object of the comparison: 24.00 -placebo-comparative: maize starch; Beaute by Roquette® ST 005; Roquette -test: Amylopectin; porous waxy corn starch “Beaute by Roquette® ST 305” RoquetteD Butyrospermum Parkii Shea Butter Cooper 3.00 (Shea) ButterE Cl 26100 D&C Red 17 Sensient 0.001F Tocopherol, Cosphadem T-70 Cosphatec 0.20 Helianthus AnnuusSeed OilG C10-18 Triglycerides DUB CURE H1 / MB Stearinerie Dubois 11.80 H Fragrance Happy Beach CND L.R. Flavours & 1.00 FragrancesIndustries S.p.A

[0445] Each solid bar shampoo formula were prepared by the following protocol:1. Mix phase A to obtain a fine powder,3. Separately, blend phase B and phase C to obtain a paste,4. Add phases A, D and G into B+C and heat to 80 °C and stirring until homogeneous aspect,5. Add phase E,6. Add phases F and H before pouring the soaps.

[0446] Methodology

[0447] 1. Materials and Hair Samples

[0448] Hair strands: Natural curly hair strands were used for the evaluation. Each strand was 20 cm long, weighed 2 g, and was secured with a cable clamp.

[0449] Equipment: Image analysis was performed using a Bossa Nova Vision Shuffle Bolero system (WIDE / TRIO), which allowed for high-resolution 2D / 3D measurements of strand volume (BULK surface in cm2) and hair fly-away / frizz (FAF surface in cm2).

[0450] 2. Samples Preparation and Standardization

[0451] To ensure reproducibility, a standardized cleaning and soiling procedure was followed:

[0452] Shampoo reset: All hair strands underwent an initial standardized shampooing (Reset) to remove any previous residues according to the following protocol:1. Weigh 0.4 g of SLES solution (10% DM) perg of hair, in a watch glass (diameter 10 cm)2. Wet the hair strand for 60 seconds (15 seconds on each side, passing the section between the index and middle fingers at the root and down to the ends 5 times with each rotation).3. To remove excess water, put the hair strand between the index and middle fingers at the root and go down to the ends, repeat the movement 3 times.4. Put the hair strand in the watch glass containing the previously weighed solution and rotate with the hair strand to collect all the SLES solution.5. Massage the hair strand from root to tip by doing 5 strokes on one side and 5 strokes on the other while rubbing / massaging.6. Rinse the hair strand under running water for 60 seconds: 15 seconds on each side, passing the section between the index and middle fingers at the root and down to the ends 5 times with each rotation.7. To remove excess water, put the hair strand between the index and middle fingers at the root and go down to the ends, repeat the movement 3 times.8. Place the hair strand flat on the glass bench. Hold the strand at the roots and comb 5 times from root to tip with the wide side of a comb. Turn the section and comb 5 times from root to tip with the thin side of a comb.

[0453] Soiling: An artificial sebum containing dust was applied to the strands to simulate real-life dulling and flattening conditions.

[0454] Initial Drying: The strands were air dried with a blow dryer.

[0455] 3. Testing Procedure and Measurements

[0456] The procedure followed a multi-step image analysis sequence to track changes in volume, frizz, and shine:• Baseline Measurement (TO): An initial image analysis was performed on the soiled air-dried strands to establish a reference state on volume.• Solid bar shampoo Application: The strands were divided into three groups and treated with the different solid bar shampoo formulations:o Group A (Placebo): Formulation TO-055-016 with placebo.o Group B (Comparative product): Formulation TO-055-015 comprising Beaute by Roquette ST 005.o Group C (invention): Formulation TG-055-010 comprising Beaute by Roquette ST 305.• Post-Treatment Analysis: After the previous treatment, hair strands were air dried with a blow dryer, and a second image analysis was conducted at the end of the overnight drying to measure the immediate effect on volume. Results obtained are presented in table 11.

[0457] [Table 11]TO-055-16 (with TO-055-015 (with TG-055-010 (with placebo) BbR ST 005) BbR ST 305) Relative variation of bulk surface of +55.1 +54.8% +64.7% hair strand after treatment with respectto before treatment (%)

[0458] The hair strands treated with the solid bar shampoo comprising a waxy porous corn starch BbR ST 305 gained +64.7 % of volume, whereas the hair strands treated with solid bar shampoos comprisingthe placebo or the native corn starch BbR ST 005 only gained +55% of volume. Therefore, the waxy porous corn starch allowed a supplementary increase of volume of +10% with respect to the placebo and the comparative native corn starch.

[0459] 4. Humidity Challenge (Anti-Frizz Evaluation)

[0460] To evaluate the long-term anti-frizz properties under stress, the hair strands were placed in a climate-controlled oven at 25°C and 80% relative humidity for a duration of 24 hours. A final image analysis was performed after the 24-hour period to quantify the resistance to hair frizzing. Results are presented in table 12.

[0461] [Table 12]TO-055-016 (with TO-055-015 (with TO-055-010 (with placebo) BbR ST 005) BbR ST 305) Relative variation of FAF surface of + 7.7 % + 19.3 % - 32 % treated hair after humidity challengewith respect to FAF surface of treatedhair before humidity challenge (%)

[0462] After humidity challenge, the hair strands treated with the solid bar shampoo comprising a waxy porous corn starch BbR ST 305 exhibited a reduction of the frizz of - 32.6 %, whereas the hair strands treated with solid bar shampoos comprising the placebo or the native corn starch BbR ST 005 showed an increase of the frizz of +7.7 % and + 20 % respectively. Therefore, whereas the placebo and the comparative native corn starch did not prevent the formation of frizz during humidity challenge test, the waxy porous corn starch did prevent the formation of frizz, and even reduce the quantity of frizz.

[0463] The results of this example show that the porous waxy corn starch can be incorporated into a solid bar shampoo composition comprising fatty ingredients while maintaining a satisfactory formulation structure and delivering improved cosmetic performance on hair. More particularly, the formulation comprising the porous waxy corn starch provides a greater increase in hair volume and a reduction in frizz after humidity challenge as compared with the placebo formulation and the formulation comprising the native corn starch. These results show that the porous waxy corn starch is not only compatible with a texturizing solid bar format, but also helps obtain a more favorable hair appearance despite the presence of the fatty ingredients.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition for cosmetic products, comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient.

2. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the at least one fatty ingredient is selected among wax, butter, oil, and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the wax is selected among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Paraffin Wax, Microcrystalline Wax, Lanolin Wax, Soy Wax, Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Jojoba Wax (Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Berry Wax (Rhus Verniciflua Peel Wax), Myrica Fruit Wax (Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax), Palm Wax (Elaeis Guineensis), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Synthetic Wax, Polyethylene Wax, Montan Wax, Bayberry Wax (Myrica Pubescens Fruit Wax), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Meadowfoam Seed Oil Wax (Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil), Tallow (Hydrogenated Tallow Glycerides), Ozokerite Wax, Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax), Synthetic Beeswax, Montan Acid Wax, Ceramide Wax, Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ceresin Wax, Fischer-Tropsch Wax, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Hydrogenated Soy Glycerides, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Lactyl Lactate, Stearyl Stearate, Euphorbia Cerifera Ester, C10-18 Triglycerides, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ethylene / VA Copolymer, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Beeswax (Cera Alba), Carnauba Wax (Copernicia Cerifera Wax), Candelilla Wax (Euphorbia Cerifera Wax), Rice Bran Wax (Oryza Sativa Bran Wax), Sunflower Wax (Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax), Shea Butter Wax (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract), Hydrogenated Castor Oil (Castor Wax), Stearic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol, Ozokerite Wax, Polyethylene Wax and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the butter is selected among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), Cupuacu Butter (Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter), Kokum Butter (Garcinia Indica Seed Butter), Murumuru Butter (Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter), lllipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Tucuma Butter (Astrocaryum Tucuma Seed Butter), Sal Butter (Shorea Robusta Seed Butter), Aloe Butter (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Hemp Seed Butter (Cannabis Sativa Seed Butter), Olive Butter (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Almond Butter (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Macadamia Butter (Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Soy Butter (Glycine Soja Oil and Hydrogenated Soybean Oil), Pistachio Butter (Pistacia Vera Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Pumpkin Seed Butter (Cucurbita Pepo Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Watermelon Seed Butter (Citrullus Lanatus Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Green Tea Butter (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Lavender Butter (Lavandula Angustifolia Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Rose Butter (Rosa Damascena FlowerExtract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Vanilla Butter (Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter), Mango Butter (Mangifera Indica Seed Butter), illipe Butter (Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter), Avocado Butter (Persea Gratissima Butter), Jojoba Butter (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Coconut Butter (Cocos Nucifera Oil and Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the oil is selected among natural oils, essential oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof, and preferably among Dimethicone (Polydimethylsiloxane), Phenyl Trimethicone (Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone), Isopropyl Myristate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Isododecane, Squalane (Synthetic), Octyldodecanol, Isopropyl Palmitate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Diisostearyl Malate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C18-21 Alkane, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polydecene and mixtures thereof.

6. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 5, wherein the mass ratio of the at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch to fatty ingredients is from 0.01 to 7.00, preferably from 0.03 to 5.00, more preferably from 0.05 to 3.00.

7. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one surfactant.

8. The composition according to claim 7, wherein the surfactant is chosen among Sodium Palmate, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Palm Kernelate, Sodium Olivate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS), Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 8, wherein the starch is selected among the group consisting of tapioca starch, corn starch, pea starch, potato starch, wheat starch, mung bean starch, rice starch, sweet potato starch, millet starch, sago starch, sorghum starch, quinoa starch, arrowroot starch, amaranth starch, lotus root starch and buckwheat starch, and mixtures thereof, and is preferably selected among maize starch and rice starch, and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 9, wherein the porous starch is a nonagglomerated porous starch ora porous granular starch ora non-agglomerated porous granular starch.

11. The composition according to anyone of claims 1 to 10, wherein the porous starch has an amylopectin content greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch.

12. Cosmetic product comprising the composition for cosmetic products as described in any of claims 1 to 11, and at least one further ingredient chosen from fillers, dry binders, coloring agents, sensorial agents, flow agents, fragrances, cosmetic active ingredients, antioxidants, preservatives, surfactants, mattifying agents, film-forming agents, surface modifier, exfoliating agents, humectants, and mixtures thereof.

13. Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably greater than 99%, as a structuring agent.

14. Use of at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably greater than 99%, and at least one fatty ingredient as a structuring emollient system.

15. A composition for cosmetic products comprising at least one porous starch having an amylopectin content greater than 80 % relative to the total weight of the porous starch, preferably greater than 99%, relative to the total weight of the porous starch and at least one fatty ingredient as a structuring emollient system, wherein the at least one porous starch further increases hair volume, controls or reduces hair frizz, or both increases hair volume and controls or reduces hair frizz.

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