Cosmetic composition containing a c-glycoside derivative, an extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium; and a mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, wherein it comprises at least one C-glycoside derivative, at least one extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium and at least one mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method employing the composition of the invention.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing a C-glycoside derivative, an extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium; and a mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of caring for keratin materials, in particular of caring for the skin.

[0002] In particular, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (I), at least one extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium and at least one mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose.

[0003] It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application, to these keratin materials, of a composition according to the invention, or to its use for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing.Prior art

[0004] Human skin is composed of three main layers: the epidermis (superficial), the dermis and the hypodermis (deep). The dermis, which is rich in fibroblasts, contains the extracellular matrix (ECM) responsible for the mechanical properties of the skin (strength, suppleness, tonicity, elasticity) and for essential physiological functions (hydration, thermoregulation, healing, nutrition). The ECM is composed of macromolecules, in particular collagen, elastin and glycoconjugates.

[0005] Collagen, the predominant protein of the dermis (75-80% of its dry weight), plays a crucial role in maintaining the structure and the mechanical properties of the skin. There exist different families of collagens, of which fibrillar collagens (types I and III) are the most abundant.

[0006] With age, the amount of collagen, in particular types I and III, decreases. This phenomenon is due to a decrease in natural production and to an increase in the activity of degradative enzymes, such as MMP-1. Skin ageing is also reflected by modifications in the thickness and in the orientation of the collagen bundles. This loss of collagen detrimentally affects the structure of the dermis, leading to a loss of firmness and of elasticity, and also to the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

[0007] Many cosmetic products are targeted at combating skin ageing by stimulating the production of collagen. However, their effectiveness often remains limited. In particular, the stimulation of other types of collagen does not guarantee an increase in collagen III, given their fundamental differences (genetic regulation, composition, tissue distribution, function, response to stimuli). A targeted approach to collagen III is thus necessary.

[0008] The present invention is thus targeted at providing a cosmetic composition stimulating specifically and significantly the production of collagen III in order to improve the elasticity and the firmness of the skin. The synergistic and innovative combination of at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (I), of at least one extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium and of at least one mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose makes it possible to obtain a significant increase in the synthesis of collagen III which is greater than the sum of the individual effects of these components and not predictable from the results obtained on other types of collagen. This invention offers a new solution for countering the decline in collagen III related to age and to environmental attacks, thus improving the appearance of the skin and its youthfulness.Subject matter of the invention

[0009] A subject matter of the present invention is specifically the provision of a novel formulation which makes it possible to meet the abovementioned expectations.

[0010] More specifically, a subject matter of the invention is a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one C-glycoside derivative of general formula (I), at least one extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium and at least one mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose.

[0011] The present invention relates particularly to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, wherein it comprises:- at least one C-glycoside derivative of following general formula (I):[Chem.1] (I)in which:- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, especially methyl;- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group;and also its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates, such as hydrates, and its optical isomers;- at least one extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium; and- at least one mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose, in which the molar ratio of mannose-6-phosphate to mannose is from 3:1 to 0.3:1.

[0012] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside derivative chosen from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, preferably C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. Advantageously, the C-glycoside derivative is in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 12% by weight of active material (C-glycoside), in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0013] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises an extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, more preferentially still a cell extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis. Advantageously, the extract of non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium is present in the composition in a content by weight ranging from 0.0004% to 0.45% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.0008% to 0.35% by weight of active material, more particularly from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.004% to 0.05% by weight of active material, or more particularly from 0.02% to 0.25% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.04% to 0.15% by weight of active material, or more particularly from 0.04% to 0.3% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

[0014] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises copper ions, preferably provided in the form of a copper salt, preferably chosen from the group constituted of copper sulfate, copper phosphate, copper carbonate, copper chloride, copper acetate, copper malate, copper succinate, copper fumarate, copper maleate, copper pyruvate, copper citrate, copper gluconate, copper glucuronate, copper lactobionate, copper sorbate, copper tartrate, copper oxalate, copper lactate, copper pyroglutamate, copper prolinate, copper aspartate, copper glutamate and their mixtures, and more preferentially in the form of copper sulfate.

[0015] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises a first amino acid chosen from the group constituted of lysine, arginine, histidine and their mixtures, and a second amino acid chosen from the group constituted of proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their mixtures. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a first amino acid comprising or constituted of lysine and / or a second amino acid comprising or constituted of proline.

[0016] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises an acid chosen from the group constituted of lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, pyruvic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, sorbic acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and their mixtures, and preferably chosen from the group constituted of lactic acid and 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, more preferably lactic acid.

[0017] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises at least one polyol chosen from 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and their mixtures and preferably at least 1,3-propanediol.

[0018] Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of a composition of the invention for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing in an individual in need thereof, by greatly stimulating the production of collagen III.

[0019] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application, to these keratin materials, of a composition as defined below for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing.

[0020] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical use, of a composition as defined below for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing.

[0021] The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular topical use, of a composition as defined below as anti-ageing composition.Definitions

[0022] The composition according to the invention is intended for a topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium. The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is understood here to mean a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0023] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is understood in particular to mean the skin, the scalp, keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and body hair, the nails and mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin (body, face, outline of the eyes, eyelids).

[0024] In that which will follow, the expression “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more” and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

[0025] Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages of the constituents are expressed by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.C-Glycoside derivative

[0026] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside derivative of following general formula (I):[Chem.1] (I)in which:- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, especially methyl;- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group;and also their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0027] Mention may in particular be made, by way of illustration and without limitation of C-glycosides of formula (I) more particularly suitable for the invention, of the following compounds:- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one;- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane;- 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;- 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;- 1-(C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;- 1-(C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;- 3'-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;- 3'-(acetamido-C-α-D-glucopyranosyl)propan-2'-one;- 1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxypropane;- 1-(acetamido-C-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-aminopropane;and also their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their optical isomers.

[0028] Preferably, use is made of C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and better still C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane. Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention can advantageously be C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, the INCI name of which is Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, in particular sold under the name Mexoryl SBB®, Mexoryl SCN® or Mexoryl SDL® by Noveal (Chimex). In a particular embodiment, such a C-glycoside is present in concentrated form, i.e. in a concentrated hydrophilic dispersion having 70% of active material; such a C-glycoside is sold under the name Mexoryl SCS by Noveal. The salts of the C-glycosides of formula (I) suitable for the invention can comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids, or also aromatic acids, may be concerned. These acids can additionally comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

[0029] The solvates acceptable for the compounds described above comprise conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of said compounds as a result of the presence of solvents. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0030] The C-glycosides (I) are known from the document WO 02 / 051828.

[0031] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a C-glycoside, preferably C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 12% by weight of active material (C-glycoside), in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0032] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a C-glycoside, preferably C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight of active material, more particularly still from 1% to 5% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] Extracts of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium

[0034] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium.

[0035] The extracts of bacteria which can be used according to the invention are prepared from non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria as defined according to the classification in Bergey’s Manual of Systematic Bacteriology (Vol. 3, Sections 22 and 23, 9th edition, 1989), among which may be mentioned the bacteria belonging to the order of the Beggiatoa and more particularly the bacteria belonging to the generaBeggiatoa,Vitreoscilla,FlexithrixandLeucothrix.

[0036] The bacteria which have just been defined, and several of which have already been described, generally have an aquatic habitat and can be found in particular in sea waters or in thermal waters. Mention may be made, among the bacteria which can be used, for example, of:Vitreoscilla filiformis(ATCC 15551)Vitreoscilla beggiatoides(ATCC 43181)Beggiatoa alba(ATCC 33555)Flexithrix dorotheae(ATCC 23163)Leucothrix mucor(ATCC 25107)Sphaerotilus natans(ATCC 13338).Preferably, an extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis(ATCC 15551) will be used.

[0037] The term "bacterial extract" according to the invention is understood to mean an extract of the bacterial biomass or any active fraction of said extract, in particular:- bacterial cells isolated from the culture medium, which have been concentrated, for example by centrifugation ("unstabilized cell extract");- concentrated bacterial cells (i), then subjected to an operation of rupturing the envelopes of the bacterial cells, by any means known to a person skilled in the art, such as the action of ultrasound or preferentially autoclaving ("stabilized cell extract").

[0038] The term "envelopes" is understood to mean the bacterial wall and optionally the underlying membranes; the supernatant obtained by filtration of the stabilized cell extract (ii), or any active fraction of said extract.

[0039] The bacterial extract as defined above (i), (ii) or (iii) also comprises, if appropriate, isolated culture medium which has been used for the fermentation of said bacterium, initially separated during the concentration defined in (i) above. Said isolated culture medium can thus be added before or after the operations carried out in (ii) and (iii) above.

[0040] This active fraction can be obtained by conventional fractionation methods, such as extraction in the presence of a solvent, selective precipitation or tangential ultrafiltration (UFT), for example.

[0041] These extracts or fractions can be preserved, for example, by freezing said extracts or said fractions, and used after thawing.

[0042] Reference will be made, in the remainder of the description, more simply to "cell extract" of bacteria ((i) and (ii)), to "supernatant" of said extract (iii) or to "active fraction".

[0043] The extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium which can be used in the composition used according to the invention is preferably chosen from a cell extract, the supernatant of said cell extract or an active fraction of said cell extract.

[0044] Preferably, the extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium is an extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, more preferentially still a cell extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis.

[0045] In order to prepare the bacterial extract according to the invention, said bacteria can be cultured according to the methods known to a person skilled in the art, or reference may in particular be made to the description of Patent Application WO-A-94-02158. A cell extract is obtained from which the supernatant can be separated, for example by filtration and centrifugation. The extract can be used in aqueous form or in lyophilized form. The protocol is described in greater detail in Example 1 below. This bacterial extract can be refractionated and used pure or diluted to different concentrations.

[0046] The compositions according to the present invention can contain the extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium in the form of a dispersion in an appropriate vehicle, such as, for example, water, organic solvents, fatty substances, including oils, and their mixtures, in particular emulsions. The contents by weight indicated below relate to said bacterial extract in the dispersed form, in particular in the form dispersed in water.

[0047] An extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium, in particular an extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, which can be used in the context of the present invention is in particular available under the name Mexoryl SAH, sold by Chimex (Noveal). This extract is an extract dispersed in water.

[0048] A composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a content by weight of extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium, in particular of extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, ranging from 0.0004% to 0.45% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.0008% to 0.35% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

[0049] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a content by weight of extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium, in particular of extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, ranging from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.004% to 0.05% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

[0050] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a content by weight of extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium, in particular of extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, ranging in particular from 0.02% to 0.25% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.04% to 0.15% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

[0051] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a content by weight of extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium, in particular of extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, ranging from 0.04% to 0.3% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of said composition.Mannose-6-phosphate and mannose

[0052] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose, in which the molar ratio of mannose-6-phosphate to mannose is from 3:1 to 0.3:1.

[0053] A composition comprising such a mixture has been described previously in WO 2020 / 201185.

[0054] The composition according to the present invention can comprise D-mannose-6-phosphate, L-mannose-6-phosphate or a mixture of these. Preferably, it comprises D-mannose-6-phosphate.

[0055] Likewise, the composition according to the present invention can comprise D-mannose, L-mannose or a mixture of these. Preferably, it comprises D-mannose.

[0056] Throughout this application, unless otherwise indicated, the terms "mannose-6-phosphate" and "mannose" are intended to encompass both the D and L forms, and also their mixtures. In the composition according to the present invention, mannose-6-phosphate can be present in any cosmetically acceptable form. For example, depending on the pH, mannose-6-phosphate can be present in protonated form or in salt form. Appropriate counterions comprise, without being limited thereto, monovalent cations, such as, for example, sodium, potassium or ammonium; divalent cations, such as, for example, copper, zinc, calcium, magnesium or manganese; or trivalent cations, such as, for example, aluminum; or their mixtures. Mannose-6-phosphate can also be mixed with one or more cosmetically acceptable positively charged substances and can form a salt with said cosmetically acceptable positively charged substances.

[0057] Throughout this application, unless otherwise indicated, the term "mannose-6-phosphate" is intended to encompass not only the free form but also the protonated form and any cosmetically acceptable salt of mannose-6-phosphate, and also their mixtures.

[0058] Mannose-6-phosphate can be prepared from mannose by enzymatic phosphorylation. Appropriate phosphorylation conditions are described, for example, in WO 2008 / 142155, and Example 1 of WO 2020 / 201185 describes in detail a possible synthesis of mannose-6-phosphate.

[0059] The enzymatic phosphorylation typically provides a mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose. The conversion and thus the ratio of mannose-6-phosphate to mannose can vary according to the reaction time and other conditions. Thus, preferably, the reaction time and the conditions are chosen so that the desired mannose-6-phosphate / mannose ratio is obtained directly. Alternatively, it is also possible to adjust the ratio by adding or by removing one or both products.

[0060] In one embodiment, the molar ratio of mannose-6-phosphate to mannose is from 2:1 to 1:1, preferably from 1.9:1 to 1.1:1, in particular approximately 1.5:1. It has been found that these ratios are particularly advantageous.

[0061] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of mannose-6-phosphate (preferably of sodium salt of mannose-6-phosphate), preferably from 0.002% to 0.05% by weight of mannose-6-phosphate (preferably of sodium salt of mannose-6-phosphate), with respect to the total weight of said composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.002% to 0.01% by weight of mannose-6-phosphate (preferably of sodium salt of mannose-6-phosphate), with respect to the total weight of said composition. In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.005% to 0.04% by weight of mannose-6-phosphate (preferably of sodium salt of mannose-6-phosphate), preferably from 0.01% to 0.03% by weight of mannose-6-phosphate (preferably of sodium salt of mannose-6-phosphate), with respect to the total weight of said composition. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can comprise mannose-6-phosphate in any other form described above, in corresponding amounts.

[0062] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.0005% to 0.05% by weight of mannose, preferably from 0.001% to 0.03% by weight of mannose, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.001% to 0.01% by weight of mannose, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.005% to 0.02% by weight of mannose, preferably from 0.006% to 0.015% by weight of mannose, with respect to the total weight of said composition.Copper ions

[0063] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention can additionally comprise copper ions. In the composition according to the invention, these copper ions are mainly or exclusively present in the form of Cu2+ions. However, during the preparation of the composition, copper ions can be added in the form of Cu2+ions and / or of Cu+ions, the latter subsequently being (partially) oxidized to form Cu2+ions.

[0064] The copper ions present in the composition according to the invention can be provided in any appropriate form during the preparation of the cosmetic active agent, for example in the form of a Cu2+and / or Cu+salt. Preferably, they are added in the form of a Cu2+salt. The counterion(s) used in said copper salt may or may not be directly combined with the copper ions in the composition according to the invention.

[0065] Consequently, in one embodiment, the copper ions are provided in the form of a copper salt chosen from the group constituted of copper sulfate, copper phosphate, copper carbonate, copper chloride, copper acetate, copper malate, copper succinate, copper fumarate, copper maleate, copper pyruvate, copper citrate, copper gluconate, copper glucuronate, copper lactobionate, copper sorbate, copper tartrate, copper oxalate, copper lactate, copper pyroglutamate, copper prolinate, copper aspartate, copper glutamate and their mixtures, preferably in the form of copper sulfate. It has been found that these copper salts are particularly suitable for use in cosmetic compositions and make it possible to form a stable product.

[0066] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises copper ions at a concentration of approximately 0.0001% to approximately 0.01% by weight, preferably of approximately 0.0002% to approximately 0.007% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises copper ions at a concentration of approximately 0.0003% to approximately 0.005% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

[0067] In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises copper ions at a concentration of approximately 0.001% to approximately 0.006% by weight, preferably of approximately 0.002% to approximately 0.005% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition.First and second amino acids

[0068] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention additionally comprises a first and a second amino acid.

[0069] Throughout this application, the term "amino acid" is intended to encompass not only the free form of the amino acid but also a close derivative of the latter, such as a salt, an ester, an amide, an N-acetylate or a hydroxamate.

[0070] The first amino acid used in the composition according to the invention has a basic side chain. In one embodiment, the first amino acid is chosen from the group constituted of lysine, arginine, histidine and their mixtures. Preferably, the first amino acid comprises or is constituted of lysine.

[0071] The second amino acid used in the composition according to the invention has an acidic side chain. In one embodiment, the second amino acid is chosen from the group constituted of proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their mixtures. Preferably, the second amino acid comprises or is constituted of proline.

[0072] In a preferred embodiment, the first amino acid comprises or is constituted of lysine and the second amino acid comprises or is constituted of proline.

[0073] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise the first and the second amino acids in any appropriate ratio. In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the first amino acid and the second amino acid in a molar ratio of approximately 3:5 to approximately 5:2, preferably of approximately 9:10 to approximately 10:6 and more preferentially of approximately 93:100 to approximately 100:63. For example, the composition according to the invention can comprise lysine and proline in a molar ratio of approximately 0.071:0.119 to approximately 0.120:0.049, preferably of approximately 0.0886:0.0955 to approximately 0.0958:0.0608.

[0074] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the first amino acid at a concentration of approximately 0.0005% to approximately 0.05% by weight, preferably of approximately 0.001% to approximately 0.03% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the first amino acid at a concentration of approximately 0.001% to approximately 0.01% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the first amino acid at a concentration of approximately 0.002% to approximately 0.02% by weight, preferably of approximately 0.004% to approximately 0.015% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition.

[0075] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the second amino acid at a concentration of approximately 0.0005% to approximately 0.05% by weight, preferably of approximately 0.0006% to approximately 0.03% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the second amino acid at a concentration of approximately 0.0007% to approximately 0.01% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition. In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the second amino acid at a concentration of approximately 0.002% to approximately 0.02% by weight, preferably of approximately 0.004% to approximately 0.015% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition.Lactic acid

[0076] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention can additionally comprise at least one acid. This acid can be used for several purposes, for example the adjustment of the pH and / or moisturizing properties. In one embodiment, the acid is selected from the group constituted of lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, pyruvic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, sorbic acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and their mixtures. Preferably, the acid is chosen from the group constituted of lactic acid and 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least lactic acid.

[0077] In one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acid in an amount making it possible for the composition to have a pH of approximately 3.8 to approximately 7.5. In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acid in an amount making it possible for the composition to have a pH of approximately 5 to approximately 7.4. In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one acid in an amount making it possible for the composition to have a pH of approximately 6 to approximately 7.3. A person skilled in the art knows how to determine the amounts required.Aqueous phase

[0078] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase and comprises at least 45% by weight of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0079] According to a particular embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises a water content of from 45% to 95% by weight, preferably of from 50% to 85% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0080] The water used can be sterile demineralized water and / or a floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime blossom water, and / or a natural thermal or mineral water, such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Les Fumades water, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water. The aqueous phase can also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water containing trace elements, such as zinc, copper, magnesium, and the like, reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.

[0081] The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention can additionally contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. Mention may in particular be made, as water-soluble additives, of polyols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. The term “polyols” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Mention may be made, as polyols, for example, of glycerol, butylene glycol (a term which can refer to the various isomers, such as 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol or their mixtures), isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, 1,2-propanediol (also called propylene glycol) and 1,3-propanediol. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention more preferably comprises at least one polyol chosen from 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and their mixtures. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 1,3-propanediol.

[0082] In a particular embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises a content of 1,3-propanediol of at least 0.01% by weight, preferably of at least 0.02% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0083] In a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a content of 1,3-propanediol ranging from 0.01% to 0.5%, preferably from 0.02% to 0.4%, by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises a content of 1,3-propanediol ranging from 0.02% to 0.1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. In another particular embodiment according to the invention, the composition comprises a content of 1,3-propanediol ranging from 0.05% to 0.3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0084] The amount of water-soluble or water-dispersible additives in the composition of the invention can range, for example, from 0% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and more preferentially still from 2% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:- a mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose, in which the molar ratio of mannose-6-phosphate to mannose is from 3:1 to 0.3:1;- copper ions provided in the form of a copper salt chosen from the group constituted of copper sulfate, copper phosphate, copper carbonate, copper chloride, copper acetate, copper malate, copper succinate, copper fumarate, copper maleate, copper pyruvate, copper citrate, copper gluconate, copper glucuronate, copper lactobionate, copper sorbate, copper tartrate, copper oxalate, copper lactate, copper pyroglutamate, copper prolinate, copper aspartate, copper glutamate and their mixtures, and preferably in the form of copper sulfate;- a first amino acid chosen from the group constituted of lysine, arginine, histidine and their mixtures, and preferably lysine;- a second amino acid chosen from the group constituted of proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their mixtures, and preferably proline;- an acid chosen from the group constituted of lactic acid and 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, preferably lactic acid; and- a glycol chosen from 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and their mixtures, preferably 1,3-propanediol.

[0086] In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least:- a mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose, in which the molar ratio of mannose-6-phosphate to mannose is from 3:1 to 0.3:1;- copper sulfate;- lysine;- proline;- lactic acid; and- 1,3-propanediol.

[0087] In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises Neoporyl™ sold by Givaudan, preferably having the following composition:

[0088] IngredientConcentration (wt%)Proline0.94Copper sulfate0.28Lysine1.19Mannose1.44Sodium mannose-6-phosphate2.99Lactic acid1.181,3-Propanediol25Waterq.s. for 100Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0089] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition can also comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent. Use will be made in particular of aqueous gelling and structuring agents conventionally used by a person skilled in the art. These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate, synthetic or of natural origin.

[0090] Mention may be made, as preferred hydrophilic gelling agent, for example, of carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the Carbopols (Carbomers) and the Pemulens (acrylate / C10-C30 alkyl acrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, such as, for example, the crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC; 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, which are optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate) or Simulgel 800 sold by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate / Polysorbate 80 / Sorbitan Oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as Simulgel NS and Sepinov EMT 10, which are sold by SEPPIC; cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; polysaccharides and in particular gums, such as xanthan gum; and their mixtures.

[0091] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a mixture of one or more of the compounds listed above.

[0092] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises at least one acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer, optionally in inverse emulsion. Use may in particular be made of an inverse emulsion, such as Simulgel 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) sold by SEPPIC.

[0093] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises at least one acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer. Use may in particular be made of Pemulen TR-1 polymer (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sold by Lubrizol.

[0094] According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises at least xanthan gum.

[0095] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum, acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymers, acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and any one of their mixtures. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent comprises xanthan gum, at least one acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer and at least one acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.

[0096] According to one embodiment, the content of hydrophilic gelling agent active material ranges from 0.1% to 5%, advantageously from 1% to 3%, by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.Oily phase

[0097] The composition according to the invention can also comprise an oily phase.

[0098] Use may be made of one or more oils commonly used in cosmetics, chosen in particular from a mineral or vegetable oil.

[0099] Preferably, the oil(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 35% by weight, with respect to the weight of the total composition.

[0100] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, preferably less than 1% or more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of silicone or silicone-comprising starting materials, with respect to the total weight of the composition, in particular do not comprise silicone or silicone-comprising starting materials, in particular chosen from Dimethicone; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Polysilicone-11; Cyclohexasiloxane; Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol; and / or Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Diphenyl Dimethicone.Other ingredients

[0101] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can contain the ingredients or additives usual in cosmetics: pigments, dyes, biological active agents (anti-ageing agents, agents for combating oily skin, antiperspirants, antioxidants, and the like), sunscreens, film-forming polymers, diffusing fillers, oils and fats, moisturizing agents, emollients, and any one of their combinations.Uses and methods

[0102] According to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing.

[0103] According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the cosmetic, in particular topical, use of a composition according to the invention as anti-ageing composition. According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application, to these keratin materials, of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing.

[0104] A skin can in particular be a skin exhibiting signs of skin ageing, in particular such as the signs defined above.

[0105] A skin can in particular be a skin not exhibiting dermatological or pathological disorders, in other words a healthy skin.

[0106] The cosmetic uses and methods considered according to the invention are non-therapeutic ones.

[0107] The cosmetic uses and methods of the invention are preferentially implemented by topically administering a composition according to the invention.

[0108] Topical administration is constituted of the external application to the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the usual techniques for the use of these compositions.

[0109] By way of illustration, the cosmetic use or method according to the invention can be implemented by topical, for example daily, application of at least one composition according to the invention, which can, for example, be formulated in the cream, gel, serum, lotion, emulsion or make-up-removing milk form.

[0110] The examples which follow will make possible a better understanding of the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature. The starting materials are referred to by their INCI names. The amounts indicated are as % by weight of starting material, unless otherwise mentioned.

[0111] In the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the temperature is ambient temperature (20°C), and is expressed in degrees Celsius, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure.Examples

[0112] Example 1: Test of the compounds of interest on the production of collagen III.Equipment and Method:Cell culture

[0113] Normal human fibroblasts (NHDF) are inoculated in 96-well culture plates and cultured for 24 h in DMEM (Dulbecco’s modified Eagle’s medium) culture medium sold by Gibco, comprising 10% fetal calf serum (FCS). This medium is subsequently replaced with test medium composed of DMEM+1% FCS and comprising the compounds to be tested or the reference of the test (control: TGF-β 20 µg / ml + vitamin C 1 mg / ml) for 72 h.

[0114] At the end of this incubation period, the test medium is removed and immunolabelings making possible the analysis of the expression of collagen III are carried out on the cell layers.

[0115] The compounds to be tested comprise:- 1% of Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, sold under the name Mexoryl SDL® (35% of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol AM (active material) in 40% of water and 25% of propylene glycol) by Noveal (Chimex). This ingredient is diluted to 1% in the test medium;- 0.111% of Vitreoscilla Ferment, sold under the name MEXORYL SAH® (4.25% of AM) by Noveal (Chimex). This ingredient is diluted to 0.111% in the test medium; or- Neoporyl®, sold by Givaudan and having the following composition:

[0116] Active materialsConcentration (wt%)Proline0.94Copper sulfate0.28Lysine1.19Mannose1.44Sodium mannose-6-phosphate2.99Lactic acid1.181,3-Propanediol25Waterq.s. for 100

[0117] This ingredient is diluted to 0.111% in the test medium.

[0118] Immunolabeling

[0119] The cell layers are rinsed a first time with PBS (Phosphate Buffer Saline) buffer. The cells are subsequently labeled with a specific primary antibody directed against collagen III (anti-collagen III, Finetest, ref. FNab01838). This antibody is subsequently revealed by virtue of the use of a fluorescent secondary antibody (directed against the primary antibody) (GAR-Alexa 488, Invitrogen, ref. A11008) and the nuclei of the cells are labeled by the use of a stain Hoechst 33342 (bis-benzimide, Sigma, ref. B2261) in parallel.

[0120] Quantification

[0121] The labeling is quantified by measurement of the fluorescence intensity signal of collagen III and standardized by the total number of nuclei detected via the Hoechst labeling.Results

[0122] Compounds tested% + / - SDSignificance (p value)Control vs. Vit C + TGF-β439.6 + / - 134.4****Control vs. 1% Proxylane86.6 + / - 6nsControl vs. 0.111% Neoporyl153 + / - 15nsControl vs. 0.111% Vitreoscilla Ferment374.2 + / - 7****Control vs. Mix (1% Proxylane + 0.111% Neoporyl + 0.111% Vitreoscilla Ferment)698.4 + / - 39****Mix vs. Control****Mix vs. Vit C + TGF-β****Mix vs. 1% Proxylane****Mix vs. Neoporyl 0,111%****Mix vs. 0.111% Biotech Plankton****

[0123] Statistical Test: ANOVA test (n = 5). (**** p < 0.0005 / *** p < 0.001 / ** p < 0.01 / * p < 0.05)

[0124] The results obtained show that the Proxylane + Vitreoscilla Ferment + Neoporyl mixture results in an increase which is significant and unexpected in scale in the production of collagen III by fibroblasts, in comparison with each of these active agents tested in isolation.

[0125] Example 2: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the present invention

[0126] A cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared according to the following process:

[0127] The starting materials of the aqueous phase (phase A) are mixed and heated with those of the fatty phase (phase B) between 60°C and 70°C, then dispersed until an excellent emulsion is obtained. The starting materials of phase C are subsequently introduced into the mixture, and the pH is adjusted to 5.3 with pH adjusters (phase D). The water is subsequently added to the mixture (phase E) and then the polymer of phase F, the active agents (phase G) and the fragrance (phase H) are added at ambient temperature.

[0128] INCI (US / EU)Concentration (%)PhaseAqua15AVitreoscilla Ferment (1)1AHydrophilic active agents0.21APolyols12.9APreservatives0.7ASequestering agent0.16AGlyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (2)2.5BLipophilic active agents0.6BFatty Substance9.8BDimethicone1.5CXanthan Gum0.15CAcrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (3)0.1CpH Adjusters0.6DAquaq.s.EAcrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80 (4)1.4FSodium Mannose Phosphate (and) Mannose (and) Lysine (and) Lactic Acid (and) Proline (and) Copper Sulfate (5)1GHydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol (6)9GFragrance0.25H

[0129] (1) Mexoryl SAH® having 4.25% of active material, sold by Noveal;

[0130] (2) Simulsol 165®, sold by SEPPIC;

[0131] (3) Pemulen TR-1 Polymer®, sold by Lubrizol;

[0132] (4) Simulgel 600®, sold by SEPPIC;

[0133] (5) Neoporyl®, sold by Givaudan;

[0134] (6) Mexoryl SDL® having 35% of active material, sold by Noveal.

[0135] The composition thus obtained is stable on storage. For example, microscopic and macroscopic modifications are not observed after two months at ambient temperature and in storage at 45°C. Moreover, the composition exhibits good cosmetic properties, in particular good sensoriality. The application of the composition to the skin results in a significant increase in the concentration of collagen III in the cells of the dermis, and thus makes it possible to obtain a good anti-ageing effect on the skin.

[0136] The compositions of the invention thus exhibit a good sensory quality, while having an anti-ageing effect on the skin, and thus respond to the issues initially determined.

Claims

A composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, wherein it comprises:- at least one C-glycoside derivative of following general formula (I):[Chem.1](I)in which:- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, especially methyl;- S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;- X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group;and also its cosmetically acceptable salts, its solvates, such as hydrates, and its optical isomers;- at least one extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium; and- at least one mixture of mannose-6-phosphate and of mannose, in which the molar ratio of mannose-6-phosphate to mannose is from 3:1 to 0.3:1.The composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the C-glycoside derivative is chosen from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and preferably is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane.The composition as claimed in either one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of a non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium is an extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis, more preferentially still a cell extract ofVitreoscilla filiformis.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition additionally comprises copper ions, preferably provided in the form of a copper salt, preferably chosen from the group constituted of copper sulfate, copper phosphate, copper carbonate, copper chloride, copper acetate, copper malate, copper succinate, copper fumarate, copper maleate, copper pyruvate, copper citrate, copper gluconate, copper glucuronate, copper lactobionate, copper sorbate, copper tartrate, copper oxalate, copper lactate, copper pyroglutamate, copper prolinate, copper aspartate, copper glutamate and their mixtures, and more preferentially in the form of copper sulfate.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition additionally comprises a first amino acid chosen from the group constituted of lysine, arginine, histidine and their mixtures, and a second amino acid chosen from the group constituted of proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid and their mixtures.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the first amino acid comprises or is constituted of lysine and / or the second amino acid comprises or is constituted of proline.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition additionally comprises an acid chosen from the group constituted of lactic acid, malic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, pyruvic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, lactobionic acid, sorbic acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid and their mixtures, and preferably chosen from the group constituted of lactic acid and 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, more preferably lactic acid.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein it comprises a C-glycoside, preferably C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 12% by weight of active material (C-glycoside), in particular from 0.1% to 10% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of the composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of non-fruiting non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium is present in a content by weight ranging from 0.0004% to 0.45% by weight of active material, in particular from 0.0008% to 0.35% by weight of active material, more particularly from 0.001% to 0.1% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.004% to 0.05% by weight of active material, or more particularly from 0.02% to 0.25% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.04% to 0.15% by weight of active material, or more particularly from 0.04% to 0.3% by weight of active material, particularly from 0.1% to 0.25% by weight of active material, with respect to the total weight of said composition.The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein it additionally comprises at least one polyol chosen from 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and their mixtures and preferably at least 1,3-propanediol.A non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the topical application, to these keratin materials, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing.The cosmetic use, in particular topical use, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 for preventing and / or treating signs of skin ageing.The cosmetic use, in particular topical use, of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 as anti-ageing composition.

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