Process for cleansing, caring for and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or scalp
Patent Information
- Application Number
- PCT/JP2026/080046
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2025-05-05
- Filing Date
- 2026-03-19
- Publication Date
- 2026-10-01
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Abstract
Description
[0001] DESCRIPTION
[0002] TITLE OF INVENTION PROCESS FOR CLEANSING, CARING FOR AND / OR CONDITIONING KERATIN FIBERS AND / OR SCALP
[0003] TECHNICAL FIELD
[0004] The present invention relates to a process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp. In addition, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp.
[0005] BACKGROUND ART
[0006] In the field of cosmetics, hair and the scalp care products are widely used to obtain better cosmetic effects on hair and the scalp. In particular, pre-shampoo composition products are preferably used for consumers to obtain better cosmetic effects on hair and the scalp.
[0007] However, there is still a need to provide a new pre-shampooing process using a new anhydrous product to provide scalp and hair with improved cosmetic effects and an improved cleansing property.
[0008] DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
[0009] An objective of the present invention is to provide a new process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning the scalp and hair, which can provide the scalp and hair with improved cosmetic effects and an improved cleansing property.
[0010] The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a new process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying an anhydrous composition to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises:
[0011] (a) at least one oil;
[0012] (b) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0013] (c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
[0014] (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0015] The (a) at least one oil may comprise at least one plant oil.
[0016] The (b) at least one anionic surfactant may be selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures.
[0017] The (b) at least one anionic surfactant may be selected from alkyl ether sulfates, in particular polyethoxylated alkyl ether sulphate.
[0018] The (c) at least one nonionic surfactant may be selected from poly oxyalky lenated nonionic surfactants.
[0019] The (c) at least one nonionic surfactant may be selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols,preferably containing from 2 to 50, particularly from 2 to 30, and more particularly from 2 to 12 oxyethylene units.
[0020] The (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms may be selected from linear and unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0021] The (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms may be selected from palmitoleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0022] The (a) at least one oil may be present in an amount ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0023] The (b) at least one anionic surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0024] The (c) at least one nonionic surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0025] The (d) fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
[0026] The present invention also relates to an anhydrous composition for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers, comprising:
[0027] (a) at least one oil;
[0028] (b) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0029] (c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
[0030] (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0031] The anhydrous composition may be a pre-shampoo composition for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp.
[0032] The present invention also relates to a use of an anhydrous composition for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises: (a) at least one oil;
[0033] (b) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0034] (c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
[0035] (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0036] BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0037] After diligent research, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that a process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp with using an anhydrous composition comprising a specific combination of the (a) at least one oil, the (b) at least one anionic surfactant, the (c) at least one nonionic surfactant, and the (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms can show improved cosmetic effects of cleansing, caring for,and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, and thus completed the invention.
[0038] Thus, the present invention relates to a process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying an anhydrous composition to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises:
[0039] (a) at least one oil;
[0040] (b) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0041] (c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
[0042] (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0043] Hereinafter, the process, the anhydrous composition, and the use according to the present invention will be explained in detail.
[0044] [Process]
[0045] The process according to the present invention is for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp. Keratin fibers here mean fibers containing keratin as a main constituent element, and examples thereof include hair, eyelash, eyebrow, and the like.
[0046] Preferably, the keratin fiber in the present invention indicates hair.
[0047] It is preferable that the process according to the present invention is for a cosmetic process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp. The cosmetic process here can mean a non-therapeutic cosmetic process. Thus, the process according to the present invention is a non-therapeutic process. In one preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention relates to a process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning the scalp and a process for caring for and / or conditioning keratin fibers, such as hair.
[0048] In particular, the process according to the present invention can provide deeply cleansing effect for the scalp and can boost the foam of the shampoo after the process because of the specific combination of the ingredients (a) to (d). The process also can enhance hair conditioning on wet and dried hair and maintain hair volume. Thus, the process according to the present invention is very preferable as a cosmetic process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp before shampooing.
[0049] The application step of the anhydrous composition can be performed by any conventional means such as an applicator, e.g., hands, a spray, a brush, or a comb. The application step can be a topical application step.
[0050] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anhydrous composition” here is intended to mean a composition which is free or substantially free of water. For example, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises water in an amount of 0.5% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may comprise the (a) oil as a medium. Thus, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention may be an oily anhydrous composition.
[0052] The anhydrous composition to be applied to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp includes (a) at least one oil, (b) at least one anionic surfactant, (c) at least one nonionic surfactant, and (d) at least onefaty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0053] The ingredients included in the anhydrous composition will be described in detail below.
[0054] (Oil)
[0055] The anhydrous composition comprises (a) at least one oil. Two or more types of oils may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of oil or a combination of different types of oils may be used.
[0056] Here, “oil” means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid, a paste (nonsolid), or solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The (a) oil preferably comprises at least one liquid oil. The oil used in the present invention is preferably in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0057] Among the oils which may be used in the present invention, mention may be made of: volatile or non-volatile oils; these oils, which may be hydrocarbon-based oils, especially of animal or plant origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbon oil” is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The hydrocarbon-based oil does not comprise any silicon atoms.
[0059] For the purposes of the present invention, “silicone oil” is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
[0060] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0061] The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, and hydrocarbon oils.
[0062] As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0063] The plant oil may comprise buters of plant origin. As examples of buters of plant origin, mention may be made of, for example, shea buter or Butyrospermum parkii buter, Nilotica shea buter, galam buter, Borneo buter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), shorea buter, illipe buter, madhuca buter or (Bassia) Madhuca longifolia buter, mowrah buter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau buter (Madhuca motleyana), phulwara buter (M. butyracea), mango buter (Mangifera indica), murumuru buter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum buter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba buter (Virola sebifera), tucuma buter, painya (kpangnan) buter (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee buter (Coffea arabica), apricot buter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia buter (Macadamia temifolia), grapeseed buter (Vitis vinifera), avocado buter (Persea gratissima), olive buter (Oleaeuropaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), and sunflower butter.
[0064] As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane. As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0065] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoacids or poly acids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or poly alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
[0066] In one embodiment of the present invention, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
[0067] The ester oils of the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols may be represented by the formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched, preferably a linear fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and more preferable 2 to 8 carbon atoms, with the proviso that Ri + R2 > 10.
[0068] Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0069] It is preferred that the ester oil is selected from fatty acid ester oils.
[0070] Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
[0071] Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0072] As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.
[0073] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance,methylglucose.
[0074] The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0075] The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0076] These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopahnitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
[0077] As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0078] As the ether oil, mention may be made of dialkyl ethers such as those represented by the following formula:
[0079] R’-O-R2
[0080] wherein
[0081] each of R1and R2independently denotes a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C24 alkyl group, preferably a Ce-Cis alkyl group, and more preferably a Cs-Cu alkyl group. It may be preferable that R1and R2are the same.
[0082] As the linear alkyl group, mention may be made of a butyl group, a pentyl group, a hexyl group, a heptyl group, an octyl group, a nonyl group, a decyl group, an undecyl group, a dodecyl group, tridecyl group, a tetradecyl group, a pentadecyl group, a hexadecyl group, a heptadecyl group, an octadecyl group, a nonadecyl group, an eicosyl group, a behenyl group, a docosyl group, a tricosyl group, and an tetracosyl group.
[0083] As the branched alkyl group, mention may be made of a 1 -methylpropyl group, 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group, a 1,1 -dimethylpropyl group, a 3-methylhexyl group, a 5-methylhexyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexylgroup, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, an 1 -ethylhexyl group, an 2-ethylhexyl group, a 1 -butylpentyl group, a 5-methyloctyl group, a 2-butyloctyl group, an isotridecyl group, a 2-pentylnonyl group, a 2-hexyldecyl group, an isostearyl group, a 2-heptylundecyl group, an 2-octyldodecyl group, a 1,3 -dimethylbutyl group, a l-(l-methylethyl)-2-methylpropyl group, a 1,1, 3, 3 -tetramethylbutyl group, a 3,5,5-trimethylhexyl group, a l-(2-methylpropyl)-3 -methylbutyl group, a 3,7-dimethyloctyyl group, and a 2-( 1,3,3 -trimethylbutyl)-5,7,7-trimethyloctyl group.
[0084] As the cyclic alkyl group, mention may be made of a cyclohexyl group, a 3 -methylcyclohexyl group, and a 3, 3, 5 -trimethylcyclohexyl group.As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate), and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate / linolenate).
[0085] As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
[0086] Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
[0087] These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
[0088] Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
[0089] When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
[0090] (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of the formula:
[0091] r— D" - D' - D" - D' — |
[0092] CH31-1CH3
[0093] with D" :—Si - O — and with D' : — Si - O —
[0094]
[0095] CH3C8H17
[0096] Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50 / 50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , 1’ -bis(2,2,2 ’ ,2 ’ ,3 ,3 ’ -hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
[0097] (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10‘6m2 / s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
[0098] Among these poly dialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
[0099] the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500000;
[0100] the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia;
[0101] the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Coming, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2 / s; and
[0102] the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
[0103] Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia.
[0104] Among the silicones containing atyl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially poly diphenylsiloxanes and poly alkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
[0105] The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula:
[0106]
[0107] in which
[0108] Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-Ce hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and
[0109] m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,
[0110] with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.
[0111] Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
[0112] the Silbione® oils of the 70641 series from Rhodia;
[0113] the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
[0114] the oil Dow Coming 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Coming;
[0115] the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
[0116] certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250,and SF 1265.
[0117] As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.
[0118] The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
[0119] The hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:
[0120] linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C16 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane;
[0121] linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane; and
[0122] mixtures of alkanes, for example, C9-12 Alkane, C10-13 Alkane, C13-14 Alkane, C13-15 Alkane, C14-17 Alkane, C14-19 Alkane, C15-19 Alkane, C15-23 Alkane, C18-21Alkane, C8-9 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-10 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-11 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C9-16 Alkane / Cy cloalkane, C 10- 12 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C 11 - 14 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C 11 - 15 Alkane / Cycloalkane, C12-13 Alkane / Cycloalkane.
[0123] As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene / butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
[0124] In one preferred embodiment, the (a) oil comprises at least one plant oil, in particular selected from linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0125] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0126] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0127] The amount of the (a) oil(s) in the composition may range from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0128] In the context of the present specification, any combinations of the upper limit values and the lower limit values above are available to represent the preferred range of the amount.
[0129] (Anionic Surfactant)
[0130] The anhydrous composition comprises the (b) at least one anionic surfactant. Two or moreanionic surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the (b) anionic surfactant or a combination of different types of the (b) anionic surfactants may be used in combination. The (b) anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides, and their mixtures.
[0131] 1) Anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin are protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reaction of the protein and / or of the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of vegetable origin or derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group can in particular be a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may more particularly be made, as anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, of apple, wheat, soybean or oat protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and their salts. The alkyl chain can in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt can be a sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salt.
[0132] Thus, mention may be made, as protein hydrolysates comprising a hydrophobic group, for example, of salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a silk protein modified by lauric acid, such as the product sold under the name Kawa Silk by Kawaken; salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is a wheat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the potassium salt sold under the name Aminofoam W OR by Croda (CTFA name: potassium lauroyl wheat amino acids) and the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol LW 30 by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat amino acids); salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and more especially salts of protein hydrolysates where the protein is an oat protein modified by lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol OAT (30% aqueous solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl oat amino acids); or salts of apple protein hydrolysates comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt sold under the name Proteol APL (30% aqueous / glycol solution) by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids).
[0133] Mention may also be made of the mixture of lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate sold under the name Proteol SAV 50 S by Seppic (CTFA name: sodium cocoyl amino acids).
[0134] 2) Mention may be made, as phosphates and alkyl phosphates, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, the mixture of mono- and diesters (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 127 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of mono(Ci2-Ci3)alkyl phosphate, sold under the references Ariatone MAP 230K-40® and Ariatone MAP 230T-60® by Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate, sold under the name Dermalcare MAP XC -99 / 09® by Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetyl phosphate, sold under the name Ariatone MAP 160K by Uniqema.
[0135] 3) Mention may be made, as carboxylates, of:
[0136] - amido ether carboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO), soldunder the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;
[0137] - poly oxy ethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65 / 25 / 10 C12-C14-C16), sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals, polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids originating from olive oil, sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia, or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD-6NEX® by Nikkol; and
[0138] - salts of fatty acids (soaps) having a C6 to C22 alkyl chain which are neutralized with an organic or inorganic base, such as potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
[0139] 4) Mention may in particular be made, as amino acid derivatives, of alkali salts of amino acids, such as:
[0140] - sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol;
[0141] - alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by Kawaken, or triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone ALTA® by Kawaken; - glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by Ajinomoto;
[0142] - aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by Mitsubishi;
[0143] - glycine derivatives (glycinates), such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate, sold under the names Amilite GCS-12® and Amilite GCK 12 by Ajinomoto;
[0144] - citrates, such as the citric monoester of oxyethylenated (9 mol) coco alcohols, sold under the name Witconol EC 1129 by Goldschmidt; and
[0145] - galacturonates, such as sodium dodecyl D-galactoside uronate, sold by Soliance.
[0146] 5) Mention may be made, as sulphosuccinates, for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70 / 30 C12 / C14) alcohol monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewopol SB CS 50® by Witco, or ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Rewoderm S 1333® by Witco. Use may also be made of poly dimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates, such as disodium PEG- 12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate, sold under the name Mackanate-DC 30 by MacIntyre.
[0147] 6) Mention may be made, as alkyl sulphates, for example, of triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: TEA lauryl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol TL40 FL or the product sold by Cognis under the name Texapon T42, which products are at 40% in aqueous solution. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium lauiyl sulphate), such as the product sold by Huntsman under the name Empicol AL 30FL, which is at 30% in aqueous solution.
[0148] 7) Mention may be made, as alkyl ether sulphates, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate(CTFA name: sodium laureth sulphate), such as that sold under the names Texapon N40 and Texapon AOS 225 UP by Cognis, or ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (CTFA name: ammonium laureth sulphate). The alkyl ether sulphates may or may not be ethoxylated with from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 30, and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide unites. In one preferred embodiment, the alkyl ether sulphate is selected from polyethoxylated alkyl ether sulphates, such as MIPA-Laureth sulfate sold under the name of MARLINAT® 242 / 90 MC by Sasol Chemicals.
[0149] 8) Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example, of a-olefinsulphonates, such as sodium a-olefinsulphonate (C14-C16), sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco or sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG® by Stepan, secondary sodium olefinsulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as sodium xylenesulphonate, sold under the names Manrosol SXS30®, Manrosol SXS40® and Manrosol SXS93® by Manro.
[0150] 9) Mention may be made, as isethionates, of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by Jordan.
[0151] 10) Mention may be made, as taurates, of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate sold under the name Nikkol SMT® or sodium palmitoyl methyltaurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.
[0152] 11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl poly glucosides can in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoy Ipoly glucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoy Ipoly glucoside (1,4) sulphosuccinic ester, sold under the name Essai 512 MP® by Seppic, or the sodium salt of cocoy Ipolyglucoside (1,4) citric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia. For the amino acid derivatives, it is preferable that they be chosen from acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives, in particular acyl glycine salt.
[0153] The acyl glycine derivatives or glycine derivatives can be chosen from acyl glycine salts (or acyl glycinates) or glycine salts (or glycinates), and in particular from the following.
[0154] i) Acyl glycinates of formula (I):
[0155] R-HNCH2COOX(I)
[0156] in which
[0157] - R represents an acyl group R’C=O, with R’, which represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain, preferably comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, and
[0158] - X represents a cation chosen, for example, from the ions of alkali metals, such as Na, Li or K, preferably Na or K, the ions of alkaline earth metals, such as Mg, ammonium groups and their mixtures.The acyl group can in particular be chosen from the lauroyl, myristoyl, behenoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, isostearoyl, olivoyl, cocoyl or oleoyl groups and their mixtures.
[0159] Preferably, R is a cocoyl group.
[0160] ii) Glycinates of following formula (II):
[0161] R, — N+CH2COO -
[0162]
[0163] Oi)
[0164] in which:
[0165] - Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon chain comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and better still from 16 to 20 carbon atoms; Ri is advantageously chosen from the lauryl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, cetyl, cetearyl or oleyl groups and their mixtures and preferably from the stearyl and oleyl groups,
[0166] - the R2 groups, which are identical or different, represent an R”OH group, R” being an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 5 carbon atoms.
[0167] Mention may be made, as the compound of formula (I), for example, of the compounds carrying the INCI name sodium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCS-12, sold by Ajinomoto, or potassium cocoyl glycinate, such as, for example, Amilite GCK-12 from Ajinomoto.
[0168] Use may be made, as compounds of formula (II), of dihydroxy ethyl oleyl glycinate or dihydroxyethyl stearyl glycinate.
[0169] Preferably, the (b) anionic surfactant is not soaps. Therefore, preferably the (b) anionic surfactant is chosen from synthetic anionic surfactants. More preferably, the (b) anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the (b) anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl ether sulfates, in particular polyethoxylated alkyl ether sulphates.
[0170] The type of the salt of the (b) anionic surfactants is not limited. Examples of the salt include alkaline metal salts such as sodium salt and potassium salt; alkaline earth metal salts such as calcium salt and magnesium salt; ammonium salts; amine salts such as monoethanolamine salt, diethanolamine salt, monoisopropanolamine salt and triethanolamine salt; and mixtures thereof. The (b) anionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 % or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0171] The (b) anionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0172] The (b) anionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.(Nonionic Surfactant)
[0173] The anhydrous composition comprises the (c) at least one nonionic surfactant. Two or more nonionic surfactants may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the (c) nonionic surfactant or a combination of different types of the (c) nonionic surfactants may be used in combination.
[0174] The (c) nonionic surfactants are compounds well known in and of themselves (see, for example, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and esters of fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups to range from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned. Non-limiting mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; poly glycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of plant origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C6-C24)alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as (Cio-Ci4)alkylamine oxides or N-(Cio-Ci4)acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and mixtures thereof.
[0175] The nonionic surfactants may preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.
[0176] Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:
[0177] monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols,
[0178] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated Cs-Cso alcohols,
[0179] saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C8-C30 amides,
[0180] esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of polyalkylene glycols, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids and of sorbitol,
[0181] saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated plant oils,
[0182] condensates of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures.
[0183] The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, more preferably between 2 and 50 and even more preferably between 2 and 30. According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (polyethylene glycol ether of fatty alcohol) and polyoxyethylenated fatty ester (polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid).
[0184] Examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may bementioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxy ethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 12 oxy ethylene units (Laureth-2 to Laureth-12, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-50, for example, Ceteareth-33, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-50, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxy ethylene units (Steareth-2 to Steareth-50, for example, Steareth-20, as the CTFA names); the adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-50, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
[0185] Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, especially those containing from 2 to 50 oxy ethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 40 oxy ethylene units (Oleth-2 to Oleth-40, as the CTFA names); and mixtures thereof.
[0186] As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols are preferably used.
[0187] In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 alcohols correspond to the following formula:
[0188] RO-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-O]m-H or RO-[CH(CH2OH)-CH2O]m-H
[0189] in which R represents a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.
[0190] As examples of compounds that are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name:
[0191] Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
[0192] The alcohol may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol may coexist in the form of a mixture.
[0193] Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is preferable to use the Cs / Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10 / C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the Ci2alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
[0194] The monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C8-C40 fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:
[0195] R’O-[CH2-CH(CH2OR”’)-O]m-R” or R’O-[CH(CH2OR”’)-CH2O]m-R”in which each of R’, R” and R’” independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C8-C40 and preferably C8-C30 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO-radical, with the proviso that at least one of R’, R” and R’” is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.
[0196] Examples of poly oxy ethylenated fatty esters that may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxy ethylene units, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG- 100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
[0197] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and poly oxy alkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxy alkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose, and / or alkylglycose) esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; ethers of fatty alcohols; ethers of sugar and a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty alcohol or alcohols; and mixtures thereof.
[0198] As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceiyl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di- or triester of fatty acids with a polyalkylene glycol ether of glycerol), preferably polyoxyethylenated glyceiyl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate), such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and / or tristearate) can be cited.
[0199] Mixtures of these surfactants, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG- 100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.
[0200] The sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acids and polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof can be selected from sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan trioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitan containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85) or the compounds marketed under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by Uniqema.As esters of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, methylglucoside fatty esters, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFAname: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid / hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate / hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof can be cited.
[0201] As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed under the name Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with about 20 moles of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and mixtures thereof, can for example be cited.
[0202] As sucrose esters, saccharose palmito-stearate, saccharose stearate and saccharose monolaurate can for example be cited.
[0203] As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl / capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PL ANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco-glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside possibly mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35 / 65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof can in particular be cited.
[0204] Mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated plant oils such as mixtures of ethoxylated (200 EO) palm and copra (7 EO) glycerides can also be cited.
[0205] The nonionic surfactant may contain alkenyl or a branched C12-C22 acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group.
[0206] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide, in particular copolymers of the following formula:HO(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b(C2H4O)cH
[0207] in which a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100, and b ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.
[0208] According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant may be selected from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in documents US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.
[0209] The silicone surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):
[0210]
[0211] in which:
[0212] Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent a Ci-Ce alkyl radical or a radical -(CH2)X-(OCH2CH2)y-(OCH2CH2CH2)z-OR4, at least one radical Ri, R2 or ? not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;
[0213] A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;
[0214] B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;
[0215] x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;
[0216] y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and
[0217] z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.
[0218] According to one preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
[0219] As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):
[0220] (CH3)3SiO - [(CH3)2SiO]A- (CH3SiO)B■ Si(CH3)3
[0221]
[0222] I (ID
[0223] (CH2)2-(OCH2CH2)y-OH
[0224] in which A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10 and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.
[0225] As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III):
[0226] H-(OCH2CH2)y-(CH2)3-[(CH3)2SiO]A’-(CH2)3-(OCH2CH2)y-OH (III)
[0227] in which A’ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.
[0228] Compounds of the present invention which may be used are those sold by the company DowComing under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. The compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.
[0229] The compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13.
[0230] In one embodiment, the (c) nonionic surfactant is selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. The poly glyceryl fatty acid ester may have a poly glycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, preferably from 2 to 8 glycerols, and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerols. In other words, the poly glyceryl fatty acid ester may comprise from 2 to 10 polyglyceiyl units, preferably 2 to 8 polyglyceryl units, and more preferably 2 to 6 polyglyceryl units. If all the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a shorter poly glyceryl chain (for example, less than 10 poly glyceryl units, preferably less than 8 polyglyceryl units, and more preferably less than 6 polyglyceryl units), the stability of the composition according to the present invention may be enhanced.
[0231] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be chosen from the mono, di and tri esters of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, preferably saturated fatty acid, including from 4 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid, and myristic acid.
[0232] The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of from 4.0 tol6.0, preferably from 4.5 tol5.5, and more preferably from 5.0 to 15.0. The term HLB ("hydrophilic-lipophilic balance") is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. If two or more polyglyceryl fatty acid esters are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters.
[0233] The poly glyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG-2 stearate (HLB: 5.0), PG-2 isostearate (HLB: 5.5), PG-2 oleate (HLB: 6.5), PG-2 caprate (HLB: 9.5), PG-2 laurate (HLB: 8.5), PG-4 oleate (HLB: 8.8), PG-4 laurate (HLB: 10.4), PG-4 isostearate (HLB: 8.2), PG-5 laurate (HLB: 15.8), PG-6 isostearate (HLB: 10.8), PG-3 cocoate (HLB: 12.0), PG-3 caprate (HLB: 10.0), PG-4 caprylate (HLB: 14), PG-4 caprate (HLB: 14.0), PG-5 myristate (HLB: 15.4), PG-5 stearate (HLB: 15.0), PG-5 oleate (HLB: 14.9), PG-6 caprylate (HLB: 14.6), PG-6 caprate (HLB: 13.1), PG-6 laurate (HLB: 14.5), and mixtures thereof.
[0234] The (c) nonionic surfactant is preferably selected from polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, more preferably polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, and even more preferably those containing from 2 to 50, particularly from 2 to 30, and more particularly from 2 to 12 oxyethylene units. In further preferred embodiment, the (c) nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols, wherein the fatty alcohols are linear and saturated C8-C20 alcohols, preferably linear and saturated Cs-Ci6 alcohols, and those containing from 2 to 50, particularly from 2 to 30, and more particularly from 2 to 12 oxyethylene units.
[0235] The amount of the (c) nonionic surfactant(s) in the composition may be 2.5% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 7.5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.The amount of the (c) nonionic surfactant(s) in the composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 20% by weight or less, and more preferably 15% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0236] The amount of the (c) nonionic surfactant(s) in the composition may range from 2.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 7.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0237] In one embodiment of the present invention, the (c) nonionic surfactant(s) is included in the composition according to the present invention in a greater amount than the (b) anionic surfactant(s).
[0238] (Fatty Alcohol)
[0239] The anhydrous composition comprises (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of the (d) fatty alcohol or a combination of different types of the (d) fatty alcohols may be used in combination.
[0240] The carbon chain of the (d) fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (d) fatty alcohol is an unsaturated carbon chain. Thus, the (d) fatty alcohol preferably comprises at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol. Preferably, the (d) fatty alcohol is selected from unsaturated fatty alcohols.
[0241] When the (d) fatty alcohol comprises at least one unsaturated fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms, the unsaturated fatty alcohol may comprise at least one conjugated or nonconjugated carbon-carbon double bond in its carbon chain. The number of the carbon-carbon double bonds is not particularly limited, but in general from 1 to 3, preferably 1 or 2, and more preferably 1.
[0242] The carbon chain of the (d) fatty alcohol may be linear or branched. Preferably, the carbon chain of the (d) fatty alcohol is a linear carbon chain. Thus, the (d) fatty alcohol is preferably selected from saturated or unsaturated linear fatty alcohol, and more preferably unsaturated linear fatty alcohols.
[0243] The (d) fatty alcohol has at least 12 or more carbon atoms. In one preferred embodiment, the (d) fatty alcohol has 12 to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0244] The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radicals containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms. In one preferred embodiment, R is chosen from unsaturated and linear radicals containing from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, wherein the number of the carbon-carbon double bonds in R is from 1 to 3, preferably 1 or 2, and more preferably 1.
[0245] As examples of the (d) fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, lignoceiyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.In one preferred embodiment, the (d) fatty alcohol is selected from linear and unsaturated fatty alcohols, such as palmitoleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceiyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0246] The (d) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 1% by weight or more, and more preferably 2% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0247] The (d) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0248] The (d) fatty alcohol(s) may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0249] (Adjuvant)
[0250] The anhydrous composition may or may not comprise one or more adjuvants that are common in the fields of cosmetics and dermatology in addition to the ingredients (a) to (d). The adjuvant may be selected from a physiologically acceptable medium of organic solvents; cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; cationic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof; cosmetically active ingredients; gelling agents; thickeners; penetrating agents; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidants, such as tocopherol; moisturizers; emollients; free-radical scavengers; suspending agents; sequestering agents; fragrances; emollients; dispersing agents; dyes and / or pigments; film-forming agents; stabilizers; preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol; co-preservatives; opacifying agents; essential oils; agents which can cause a cooling sensation, such as menthol; and mixtures thereof.
[0251] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisioned addition.
[0252] The adjuvants may be present in the composition in an amount preferably ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0253] (Additional Step)
[0254] The process according to the present invention may comprise at least one optional step after the step of applying the anhydrous composition to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp. Two or more additional steps can be combined.
[0255] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention may comprise an additional step of massaging the scalp after the step of applying the anhydrous composition to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp.
[0256] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention maycomprise an additional step of rinsing off the anhydrous composition from the keratin fibers and / or the scalp. A method for rinsing off the anhydrous composition is not particularly limited. For example, the anhydrous composition is rinsed off with water.
[0257] In one embodiment of the present invention, the process according to the present invention may comprise an additional step of shampooing the keratin fibers after the anhydrous composition is rinsed off from the keratin fibers. The shampooing step may be followed by rinsing off the shampoo. After rinsing off, the keratin fibers and / or the scalp may be dried. The methods for drying the keratin fibers and / or the scalp are not particularly limited, and may include drying with a towel and blowing-drying with a hair dryer. In addition, before drying the keratin fibers and / or the scalp, further additional step of an application of hair conditioner and / or treatment may be performed. The hair conditioner and / or treatment may be left on for a period of time and then rinsed off, and then the keratin fibers and / or the scalp may be dried.
[0258] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying an anhydrous composition to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0259] (a) from 50% to 95% by weight of the at least one oil;
[0260] (b) from 1% to 20% by weight of the at least one anionic surfactant;
[0261] (c) from 2.5% to 30% by weight of the at least one nonionic surfactant; and
[0262] (d) from 0.05% to 5% by weight of the at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying an anhydrous composition to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises:
[0263] (a) from 60% to 90% by weight of the at least one oil selected from plant oils;
[0264] (b) from 3% to 15% by weight of the at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof;
[0265] (c) from 5% to 20% by weight of the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants; and
[0266] (d) from 1% to 15% by weight of the at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms, selected from linear and unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0267] According to a preferred embodiment, the process according to the present invention is a process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, comprising a step of applying an anhydrous composition to the keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises:
[0268] (a) from 65% to 85% by weight of the at least one oil selected from linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof;
[0269] (b) from 5% to 10% by weight of the at least one anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, in particular polyethoxylated alkyl ether sulphates;
[0270] (c) from 7.5% to 15% by weight of the at least one nonionic surfactant selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, preferably containing from 2 to 50, particularly from 2 to 30, and more particularly from 2 to 12 oxyethylene units; and
[0271] (d) from 2% to 10% by weight of the at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms, selected from palmitoleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol,lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0272] [Composition]
[0273] The present invention also relates to an anhydrous composition used in the process according to the present invention. The ingredients included in the anhydrous composition are as explained above. Thus, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises the (a) at least one oil, the (b) at least one anionic surfactant, the (c) at least one nonionic surfactant, and the (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0274] The anhydrous composition according to the present invention can be for a cosmetic use. In one embodiment of the present invention, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is for keratin fibers and / or the scalp, in particular for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp.
[0275] Thus, the present invention also relates to an anhydrous composition for keratin fibers and / or the scalp, preferably for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, comprising;
[0276] (a) at least one oil;
[0277] (b) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0278] (c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
[0279] (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0280] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “anhydrous composition” here is intended to mean a composition which is free or substantially free of water. For example, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention comprises water in an amount of 0.5% by weight or less, preferably 0.1% by weight or less, and more preferably less than 0.01% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0281] In one specific embodiment, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is a pre-shampoo composition, which is used prior to shampooing the keratin fibers, in particular hair.
[0282] [Use]
[0283] The present invention also relates to a use of the anhydrous composition according to the present invention for treating keratin fibers and / or the scalp, preferably for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp.
[0284] Thus, the present invention also relates to a use of an anhydrous composition for treating keratin fibers and / or the scalp, preferably for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises:
[0285] (a) at least one oil;
[0286] (b) at least one anionic surfactant;
[0287] (c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and
[0288] (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
[0289] The ingredients and the amount of the ingredients are the same as explained in the process of the present invention as above.
[0290] EXAMPLESThe present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0291] [Composition]
[0292] Each of the anhydrous compositions according to Example 1 (Ex. 1) and Comparative Example 1 (Comp. Ex. 1) was prepared by mixing ingredients listed in the following Table 1 at room temperature (25°C). The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0293] [Evaluation]
[0294] The evaluations of the each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 were made with 6 models. One half of the head of each of the model was treated with the composition according to Example 1 and the other half treated with the composition according to Comparative Example 1. No shampoo was done the day before the evaluations. First, 2g of the composition was directly applied to the scalp, then the composition was spread on the scalp and the scalp was massaged for 2 minutes. The composition was then emulsified with 40mL of water, and then the scalp was further massaged for another 1 minute. The composition was then rinsed off with water. The hair was then treated with shampooing with 6g of a shampoo composition, conditioning with 6g of conditioner after the shampoo composition was rinsed off, and dried and blown after the conditioner was rinsed off.
[0295] The following evaluations were made by 3 internal stylists.
[0296] (Rinsing Property)
[0297] The rinsing property of the composition according to Example 1 was compared with Comparative Example 1 with the same rinsing speed. The rinsing property corresponds to the rinsing of the oil, and the rinsing of the shampoo and of the conditioner.
[0298] (Shampooing Property)
[0299] The shampooing property of the composition according to Example 1 was compared with Comparative Example 1.
[0300] (Cosmetic Effects on Wet Elair)
[0301] The cosmetic effects on wet hair of the composition according to Example 1 was compared with Comparative Example 1.
[0302] (Cosmetic Effects on Dry Hair)
[0303] The cosmetic effects on wet hair of the composition according to Example 1 was compared with Comparative Example 1.
[0304] The results are shown in Table 1 below.Table 1
[0305] Ingredients Ex. 1 Comp. Ex. 1 Plant Oils 74.8 79.8
[0306] Oleyl Alcohol(1)5
[0307] Laureth-3(2)10 10
[0308] MIPA-Laureth Sulfate(3)7 7
[0309] Adjuvants (menthol, tocopherol,
[0310] 3.2 3.2
[0311] fragrance, and preservatives)
[0312] Evaluation
[0313] Rinsing Property Good Fair
[0314] Shampooing Property Good Fair Cosmetic Effects on Wet Hair Good Fair Cosmetic Effects on Dry Hair Good Fair
[0315]
[0316] (1) HD OCENOL 80 / 85 V / MB sole I by BASF
[0317] (2) DEHYDOL LS 3 DEO N sold by BASF
[0318] (3) MARLINAT 242 / 90 MC5 RSPO-MB sold by SASOL
[0319] As can be seen from these results, higher hair smoothness and suppleness during rinsing was achieved for the composition according to Example 1 than Comparative Example 1. This result was obtained when the composition according to Example 1 was rinsed off, as well as the shampoo composition and the conditioner were rinsed off. This indicates that the addition of oleyl alcohol is great because it brings more hair cosmeticity during rinsing without impacting the rinsing time. Furthermore, in both of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, no greasiness of the scalp during rinsing shampoo, rinsing conditioner, wet hair stage and dry hair stage was found, and thus no differences were observed between the use of these compositions in terms of hair volume and visual and tactile scalp and hair cleanliness. Thus, the use of the composition according to the present invention can achieve more hair cosmeticity while keeping good scalp and hair cleansing property, i.e., no greasy roots, no greasy scalp, no volume down, and also boost the foam of the shampoo done after.
[0320] In addition, quicker lathering and higher amount of foam was achieved for the composition according to Example 1 than Comparative Example 1. This is very preferable for consumers because higher foam is cueing more cleansing in consumers mind.
[0321] Furthermore, more coating on wet hair and smoother and more suppleness sensation on wet hair were achieved for the composition according to Example 1 than Comparative Example 1. Also, more hair alignment, less dry ends, smoother, easier finger-combing, more suppleness, more coating, more uniform coating, and more shine effects on diy hair were achieved the composition according to Example 1 than Comparative Example 1.
[0322] Accordingly, the process according to the present invention using the anhydrous composition comprising the (d) fatty alcohol in combination with the ingredients (a) to (c) achieves better cosmetic effects on hair from rinsing step of the anhydrous composition and even after the hair is dried after shampooing, without compromising on scalp spreadability and ease of massaging. The anhydrous composition according to the present invention also could boost the foam of the shampoo and achieve well hair volume.
[0323] In conclusion, it can be said that the process according to the present invention is very suitable for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp before shampooing.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A process for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp comprising a step of applying an anhydrous composition, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises:(a) at least one oil;(b) at least one anionic surfactant;(c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and(d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
2. The process according to Claim 1 , wherein the (a) at least one oil comprises at least one plant oil.
3. The process according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the (b) at least one anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures.
4. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) at least one anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl ether sulfates, in particular polyethoxylated alkyl ether sulphates.
5. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (c) at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants.
6. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) at least one nonionic surfactant is selected from polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, preferably containing from 2 to 50, particularly from 2 to 30, and more particularly from 2 to 12 oxy ethylene units.
7. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms is selected from linear and unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 or more carbon atoms.
8. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms is selected from palmitoleyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
9. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the (a) at least one oil is present in an amount ranging from 50% to 95% by weight, preferably from 60% to 90% by weight, and more preferably from 65% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
10. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (b) at least one anionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
11. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, the (c) at least one nonionic surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
12. The process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , the (d) fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms is present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition.
13. An anhydrous composition for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, comprising:(a) at least one oil;(b) at least one anionic surfactant;(c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and(d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.
14. The anhydrous composition according to Claim 13, which is a pre-shampoo composition for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp.
15. A use of an anhydrous composition for cleansing, caring for, and / or conditioning keratin fibers and / or the scalp, wherein the anhydrous composition comprises:(a) at least one oil;(b) at least one anionic surfactant;(c) at least one nonionic surfactant; and(d) at least one fatty alcohol having 12 or more carbon atoms.