Cosmetic composition and use thereof

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising: · An extract from the fermentation of bacillus subtilis comprised between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the final composition · Milk proteins comprised between 0.05% and 3% of the total weight of the final composition · An extract of common beech bud comprised between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the final composition · At least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin of the face, body, scalp and hair.

Description

[0001] "Cosmetic composition and its use"

[0002] TECHNICAL FIELD

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care of the skin of the face, body, scalp and hair.

[0004] STATE OF THE ART

[0005] Research in the cosmetics field is constant. The market demands increasingly innovative and effective products, particularly in anti-aging facial care.

[0006] Awareness of the importance of the gut microbiota has extended to the skin microbiota. Indeed, as with the gut microbiota, the skin microbiota is responsible for maintaining the skin's balance and plays a role in protecting against external aggressors.

[0007] When this community is disrupted, these functions are lost, which has consequences for the person's health.

[0008] However, the use of certain cosmetic products can have detrimental effects on this skin microbiota, which is counterproductive.

[0009] Therefore, there is a need to offer cosmetic products that are highly effective while respecting the skin microbiota.

[0010] SUMMARY

[0011] To achieve this objective, according to one embodiment, a composition is provided comprising a fermented Bacillus subtilis extract of between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the final composition, whey of between 0.05% and 3% of the total weight of the final composition, a common beech bud extract of between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the final composition, and at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient. The composition according to the invention is particularly interesting in combining three active ingredients in innovative dosages that allow for both cosmetic effects and the promotion of the skin microbiota.

[0012] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a composition comprising: an extract of the fermentation of bacillus subtilis comprising between 0.1% and 2% of the total weight of the final composition, whey comprising between 0.1% and 0.5% of the total weight of the final composition, an extract of common beech bud comprising between 0.1% and 2% of the total weight of the final composition, and at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

[0013] Preferably, the composition comprises: 0.3% of bacillus subtilis fermentation extract by total weight of the final composition, 0.3% of whey by total weight of the final composition, 0.3% of common beech bud extract by total weight of the final composition, and at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

[0014] Preferably, the extract from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis is Bacillus ferment.

[0015] Preferably, the extract from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis includes at least one protease.

[0016] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the composition for the maintenance and / or improvement of the skin microbiota.

[0017] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the composition for an anti-wrinkle effect.

[0018] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the composition for a scar reduction effect.

[0019] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the composition for facial care.

[0020] Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2 for body care.

[0021] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the composition for facial makeup.

[0022] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the composition for the care of hair and scalp.

[0023] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic use of the composition in the form of cream, gel, serum, foundation, shampoos, conditioners.

[0024] According to another aspect, the invention relates to a therapeutic use to improve the healing of the cutaneous epidermis.

[0025] BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

[0026] The aims, objects, features and advantages of the invention will become clearer from the detailed description of an embodiment thereof, which is illustrated by the following accompanying drawings in which:

[0027] Figure 1 represents the alpha diversity values ​​of the skin microbiota (based on the Shannon index) for each group at each sampling time for example 2.

[0028] Figure 2 represents the results of assay B from example 3. Figure 2a illustrates the cut made in the cellular layer simulating a wound.

[0029] Figure 2b illustrates the negative control in which the cells are not processed.

[0030] Figure 2c illustrates the cell layer treated with a concentration of 0.1 mg / ml of composition in assay B.

[0031] Figure 2d illustrates the cell layer treated with a concentration of 0.05 mg / ml of composition in assay B.

[0032] Figure 2e illustrates the cell layer treated with a concentration of 0.02 mg / ml of the composition in assay B.

[0033] Figure 3 illustrates a scar treated with the B dosage of group B at T0 - figure 3a and T112 figure 3b according to example 4.

[0034] Figure 4 illustrates the depth of wrinkles for group A treated with dosage A, according to example 5.

[0035] Figure 5 illustrates the volume of wrinkles for group A treated with dosage A, according to example 5. Figure 6 illustrates the depth of wrinkles for group B treated with dosage B, according to example 5.

[0036] Figure 7 illustrates the wrinkle volume for group B treated with dosage B, according to example 5. Figure 8 illustrates the wrinkle depth for group C treated with dosage C, according to example 5.

[0037] Figure 9 illustrates the wrinkle volume for group C treated with dosage C, according to example 5. Figures 10a and 10b are photos illustrating the evolution of wrinkle depth and wrinkle volume for group B treated with dosage B, according to example 5 at T0 figure 10a and at T112 figure 10b.

[0038] The drawings are given as examples and are not limiting to the invention.

[0039] DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0040] A parameter "approximately equal to / greater than / less than" or "of the order of" a given value means that this parameter is equal to / greater than / less than the given value, to within 10% or even 5% of that value.

[0041] The term "anti-wrinkle" refers to an effect intended to combat superficial skin aging by reducing the depth and / or volume of wrinkles or by limiting their formation. For example, the invention demonstrates an anti-wrinkle effect that reduces wrinkle depth by at least 5% after 56 days of use and advantageously by at least 8% after 112 days of use, and / or reduces wrinkle volume by at least 5% after 56 days of use and advantageously by at least 10% after 112 days of use.

[0042] The protective and maintenance effect of the skin microbiota (or flora) refers to protection against external aggressions. In other words, the composition helps reduce or even prevent the establishment of pathogenic bacteria and / or helps maintain or even improve the skin microbiota.

[0043] The term "healing" refers to an effect that accelerates and improves the healing of the epidermis and reduces the appearance of the scar.

[0044] By "cosmetically acceptable", or "suitable for cosmetic use" we mean compatible with the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or hair, which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition.

[0045] Depending on the possibility, the composition includes at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient or vehicle. The composition is a cosmetic composition, meaning it is suitable for cosmetic application.

[0046] Alternatively, the composition may include at least one pharmaceutically acceptable excipient or vehicle. The composition is a therapeutic composition, meaning it is suitable for therapeutic application. Preferably, the composition is suitable for dermatological application.

[0047] The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises three compounds acting in synergy.

[0048] The composition includes firstly an extract obtained from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis. Advantageously, this extract is between 0.05% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 2%, and even more preferably 0.3%, by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0049] The extract obtained from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis preferentially comprises proteases, or even, preferentially, at least one enzyme advantageously belonging to the protease family. This extract is designated according to the INCI classification as Bacillus Ferment.

[0050] The composition also includes milk proteins, also known in the INCI classification as whey protein, which can be translated into French as lactosérum or petit-lait. Preferably, the milk proteins are between 0.05% and 3%, preferably between 0.1% and 0.5%, and even more preferably 0.3% by weight of the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the milk proteins contain cytokines.

[0051] The composition also includes a beech bud extract. Advantageously, this beech bud extract is present at a concentration of between 0.05% and 5%, preferably between 0.1% and 2%, and even more preferably 0.3%, by weight of the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the beech bud extract is derived from Fagus sylvatica L. This extract may also be referred to as biostimulin. According to the INCI classification, this extract is designated as Fagus sylvatica bud extract.

[0052] One possibility is that the composition includes tocopherol, hyaluronic acid, and vitamins such as vitamin C.

[0053] The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition, in particular, a leave-on cosmetic composition. The composition according to the present invention can be applied to a keratinous substance, such as skin, for example, the face, neck, lips, scalp, and hair. The composition according to the present invention has a cosmetic effect, in particular as an anti-wrinkle effect, and / or an effect of maintaining or even improving the skin microbiota of keratinous substances, and / or improving the appearance of scars.

[0054] According to another possibility, the composition of the present invention can be used as a therapeutic composition. The composition of the present invention can be applied to a keratinous substance, such as skin, for example, the face, neck, lips, scalp, and hair. The composition of the present invention has a therapeutic effect, in particular a healing effect on keratinous substances.

[0055] The invention is preferably adapted and intended for topical application.

[0056] The formulation can take various forms suitable for topical application to the skin of the face, body, scalp, and hair. Ideally, the formulation is intended to be leave-on. Alternatively, the formulation can be included in rinse-off products.

[0057] For example, the composition can take the form of lotion, gel, emulsion, cream, serum, lip balm, complexion makeup, shampoos, conditioners, scalp and hair products

[0058] The composition according to the invention may include additives or other active compounds such as antioxidants, moisturizers, emulsifiers, targeted ingredients according to the cosmetic need of the product, preservatives, perfumes, stabilizers, colorants, pigments, anti-UV compounds.

[0059] According to one embodiment, the composition is intended to be used as an anti-wrinkle cosmetic composition.

[0060] According to one embodiment, the composition is intended to be used as a protective or even enhancing cosmetic composition for the skin microbiota.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the composition is intended to be used as a cosmetic composition that attenuates scars, i.e., reduces the visibility of scars.

[0062] According to one embodiment, the composition is intended to be used as a therapeutic wound-healing composition.

[0063] Examples

[0064] Example 1

[0065] The tested compositions have the following INCI list:

[0066] aqua (water) - glycerin - butylene glycol - caprylic / capric triglyceride - c12-20 acid peg-8 ester -phenoxyethanol - potassium cetyl phosphate - cetyl alcohol - acrylates / c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer - caprylyl glycol - steareth-21 - ethylhexylglycerin - xanthan gum - parfum (fragrance) - disodium edta - sodium hydroxide - lactose - whey protein - propylene glycol - fagus sylvatica bud extract - glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer - peg-8 - bacillus ferment - lactic acid - tocopherol - benzyl alcohol - ascorbyl palmitate - potassium sorbate - ascorbic acid - benzoic acid -citric acid - alpha-isomethyl ionone - benzyl salicylate - hydroxycitronellal - linalool - limonene -citronellol.

[0067] Les dosages des composés selon l’invention sont répartis en trois groupes de tests :

[0068] GROUPE A (G1) (Dosage A)

[0069] - Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract : 0,1% en poids du poids total de la composition

[0070] - Whey protein: 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition

[0071] - Bacillus Ferment: 0.1% by weight of the total weight of the composition

[0072] GROUP B (G2) (Dosage B) - Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract: 0.3% by weight of the total weight of the composition

[0073] - Whey protein: 0.3% by weight of the total composition

[0074] - Bacillus Ferment: 0.3% by weight of the total weight of the composition

[0075] GROUP C (G2) (C Assay)

[0076] - Fagus Sylvatica Bud Extract: 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition

[0077] - Whey protein: 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition

[0078] - Bacillus Ferment: 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition

[0079] Example 2: Improvement and / or maintenance of the skin microbiota

[0080] The composition of the microbiome is assessed when using the composition.

[0081] The experiment is carried out on 3 groups of 25 people each (1 group of 25 people for each dosage), aged 35 to 65 years and presenting stressed skin.

[0082] The composition of Example 1, which is being tested, is a moisturizing emulsion. Frequency and method of use: apply morning and evening to clean skin, on the face, neck, and décolleté.

[0083] The product should be used individually like a regular moisturizer.

[0084] It must be applied morning and evening to the face, neck and décolleté, perfectly cleansed and dry for 112 consecutive days.

[0085] A microbial flora sample, using swabs, is taken from the face of the 75 volunteers at times T0, T56 and T112. In total, 225 swabs are taken.

[0086] Microbiota analysis is performed as follows:

[0087] - Extraction of nucleic acids from buffers

[0088] - PCR amplification of the V3-V4 region encoding 16S ribosomal RNA

[0089] - Sequencing

[0090] - Bioinformatics analysis

[0091] The study identified bacteria typically found on healthy skin. Three types of bacteria were present in all the samples analyzed:

[0092] - Cutibacterium, of the Propionibacteriaceae family

[0093] - Staphylococcus, from the Staphylococcaceae family

[0094] - Streptococcus, from the Streptococcaceae family.

[0095] Alpha diversity was verified, that is, the diversity at t0 between the three groups. Despite the different distribution of skin characteristics in the three groups, no significant difference was observed at t0. It should be noted that after the treatments, an increase in the diversity of bacterial species present was observed.

[0096] Figure 1 shows the alpha diversity values ​​(based on the Shannon index) for each group at each sampling time.

[0097] Statistical analyses revealed a significant increase in alpha diversity when comparing T0 and T2 (T56 days) of GROUP B (G2) treated with dosage B and GROUP C (G2) treated with dosage C. GROUP A (G1) treated with dosage A shows maintenance of alpha diversity during treatment.

[0098] This significant increase is confirmed by comparing the t0 and t3 (T122) values ​​of GROUP B (G2) treated with Assay B and GROUP C (G2) treated with Assay C.

[0099] Thus, a significant increase in alpha diversity is already observed after 56 days of treatment (T2) with dosage B and dosage C, and is also maintained after 112 days of treatment (T3) demonstrating a positive effect on the skin microbiota of the invention.

[0100] Example 3: Healing effect

[0101] The healing activity of the composition according to the invention is tested by making an incision simulating a wound on a cell monolayer of human fibroblasts and evaluating its ability to accelerate the approximation of the flaps relative to the untreated cells.

[0102] A preliminary cell viability test was performed to select the product concentrations to be used in the subsequent wound healing test. Based on these results, it was decided to use concentrations of 0.1, 0.05, and 0.02 mg / ml for each of the dosages A, B, and C for the wound healing test.

[0103] After creating an incision in the monolayer of confluent fibroblast cells (simulating a wound), the cells were treated with selected concentrations. Untreated cells were used as a negative control, while a standard with known wound-healing activity was used as an internal positive control. Morphological evaluation of the monolayer was performed by bright-field microscopy and interleukin-1α (IL-1α) measurement.

[0104] The 24-hour results of assay B are illustrated in Figure 2. Figure 2a shows the incisions made at T0, Figure 2b shows a negative control, and the figures show the 24-hour results for the following concentrations: Figure 2c: 0.1 mg / ml, Figure 2d: 0.05 mg / ml, and Figure 2e: 0.02 mg / ml. Complete closure of the monolayer was observed within 24 hours for the 0.1 mg / ml dilution. Morphological evaluation revealed, for all three groups, a reappearance of monolayer flaps in the cells treated with the tested product at concentrations of 0.1 and 0.05 mg / ml after 24 hours of contact, compared to the untreated control. The IL-1 aa assay showed a slight increase in this same level, which is consistent with the healing process.

[0105] Tests were also carried out on dosages A and C and show a closure of the monolayer.

[0106] Example 4 - Effect of reducing the visibility of scars

[0107] The experiment is carried out on 3 groups of 25 people each (1 group of 25 people for each dosage), aged 35 to 65 years and presenting stressed skin.

[0108] Frequency and method of use: Apply morning and evening to clean skin, on the face, neck and décolletage.

[0109] The product should be used individually like a regular moisturizer.

[0110] It must be applied morning and evening to the face, neck and décolleté, perfectly cleansed and dry for 112 consecutive days.

[0111] Specific evaluation criteria were analyzed at the beginning of the study (before product use) and after 56 and 112 days of treatment. The variable was assessed by the professionals responsible for the trial according to the following ordinal scale: Very marked - Marked - Moderate - Mild - Absent.

[0112] Table 1 below lists the absolute frequencies of scar judgments during the treatment of dosage A Group A.

[0113] Table 1

[0114] JUDGMENT TO T056 T112

[0115] Very marked 3 1 0

[0116] Marked 9 8 6

[0117] Moderate 13 13 16

[0118] Light 0 3 3

[0119] Absent 0 0 0

[0120]

[0121] It is clear that the frequency of judgments on the variable visibility of scars tends to evolve towards more positive categories over time.

[0122] More specifically, compared to the initial value (TO), the variable visibility of scars improves in:

[0123] - 32% of volunteers after 56 days of treatment;

[0124] - 48% of volunteers after 112 days of treatment.

[0125] Post-hoc tests showed statistically significant differences between baseline scar visibility and scar visibility after 28 and 56 days of treatment.

[0126] Table 2 below lists the absolute frequencies of scar judgments during the treatment of dosage B Group B.

[0127] Table 2

[0128] JUDGMENT TO T056 T112

[0129] Very marked 4 0 0

[0130] Marked 10 10 4

[0131] Moderate 11 14 19

[0132] Light 0 1 2

[0133] Absent 0 0 0

[0134]

[0135] It is clear that the frequency of judgments on the variable visibility of scars tends to evolve towards more positive categories over time.

[0136] More specifically, compared to the initial value (TO), the variable visibility of scars improves in:

[0137] - 36% of volunteers after 56 days of treatment;

[0138] - 56% of volunteers after 112 days of treatment.

[0139] Post-hoc tests showed statistically significant differences between baseline scar visibility and scar visibility after 28 and 56 days of treatment.

[0140] Figure 3 illustrates a scar treated by the B assay of group B at TO and T112.

[0141] Table 3 below lists the absolute frequencies of scar judgments during the C Group C dosage treatment. Table 3

[0142] JUDGMENT T0 T056 T112

[0143] Very marked 2 1 0

[0144] Marked 9 4 6

[0145] Moderate 14 18 13

[0146] Light 0 2 6

[0147] Absent 0 0 0

[0148]

[0149] It is clear that the frequency of judgments on the variable visibility of scars tends to evolve towards more positive categories over time.

[0150] More specifically, compared to the initial value (TO), the variable visibility of scars improves in:

[0151] - 36% of volunteers after 56 days of treatment;

[0152] - 52% of volunteers after 112 days of treatment.

[0153] Post-hoc tests showed statistically significant differences between baseline scar visibility and scar visibility after 28 and 56 days of treatment.

[0154] Example 5: Anti-wrinkle effect

[0155] The experiment is carried out on 3 groups of 25 people each (1 group of 25 people for each dosage), aged 35 to 65 years and presenting stressed skin.

[0156] Frequency and method of use:

[0157] The product should be used individually like a regular moisturizer.

[0158] It must be applied morning and evening to the face, neck and décolleté, perfectly cleansed and dry for 112 consecutive days.

[0159] Specific evaluation criteria were analyzed at the beginning of the study (before use of the product) and after 56 and 112 days of treatment.

[0160] The effect on average wrinkle depth and volume was evaluated (instrumental analysis) and measured using Antera 3D (mm). The instrument acquires multiple images and reconstructs the skin's topography in 3D, thanks to a multispectral LED system that illuminates the skin surface from different directions. Spatial analysis of the acquired image data, using the associated software, allows for the study of the skin's three-dimensional structure.

[0161] This makes it possible to analyze deep skin characteristics in relation to the normal skin surface, including wrinkles.

[0162] More specifically, the average depth of wrinkles on the studied skin area is calculated, as well as the total volume of wrinkles on the studied skin area.

[0163] For group A treated with dosage A, a significant reduction in wrinkle depth was observed, as illustrated in figure 4 and confirmed by post-hoc tests.

[0164] Compared to the initial value (TO), a decrease in the variable average depth of the wrinkles is observed:

[0165] - 5% after 56 days of treatment;

[0166] - 8% after 112 days of treatment. For group A treated with dosage A, a significant reduction in wrinkle volume was observed, as illustrated in figure 5 and confirmed by post-hoc tests.

[0167] Compared to the initial value (TO), a decrease in wrinkle volume of:

[0168] - 7% after 56 days of treatment;

[0169] - 10% after 112 days of treatment.

[0170] For group B treated with dosage B, a significant reduction in wrinkle depth was observed, as illustrated in figure 6 and confirmed by post-hoc tests.

[0171] Compared to the initial value (TO), a decrease in the variable average depth of the wrinkles is observed:

[0172] - 6% after 56 days of treatment;

[0173] - 11% after 112 days of treatment.

[0174] Figures 10a and 10b are photos illustrating this effect with an average reduction in wrinkle depth of 14.88%

[0175] For group B treated with dosage B, a significant reduction in wrinkle volume was observed, as illustrated in figure 7 and confirmed by post-hoc tests.

[0176] Compared to the initial value (TO), a decrease in wrinkle volume of:

[0177] - 9% after 56 days of treatment;

[0178] - 13% after 112 days of treatment.

[0179] For group C treated with dosage C, a significant reduction in wrinkle depth was observed, as illustrated in figure 8 and confirmed by post-hoc tests.

[0180] Compared to the initial value (TO), a decrease in the variable average depth of the wrinkles is observed:

[0181] - 6% after 56 days of treatment;

[0182] - 10% after 112 days of treatment.

[0183] For group C treated with dosage C, a significant reduction in wrinkle volume was observed, as illustrated in figure 9 and confirmed by post-hoc tests.

[0184] Compared to the initial value (TO), a decrease in wrinkle volume of:

[0185] - 8% after 56 days of treatment;

[0186] - 11% after 112 days of treatment

[0187] The invention is not limited to the embodiments previously described and extends to all embodiments covered by the invention.

Claims

Demands 1. Composition including: • An extract from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis comprising between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the final composition, • Whey, comprising between 0.05% and 3% of the total weight of the final composition, • A common beech bud extract comprising between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the final composition, • and at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising: • An extract from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis comprising between 0.1% and 2% of the total weight of the final composition, • Whey, comprising between 0.1% and 0.5% of the total weight of the final composition, • A common beech bud extract comprising between 0.1% and 2% of the total weight of the final composition, • and at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising: • 0.3% of the extract from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis by total weight of the final composition, • 0.3% whey by total weight of the final composition, • 0.3% common beech bud extract by total weight of the final composition, • and at least one cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable excipient.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the extract of the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis is Bacillus ferment.

5. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the extract from the fermentation of Bacillus subtilis comprises at least one protease.

6. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for the maintenance and / or improvement of the skin microbiota.

7. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for an anti-wrinkle effect.

8. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for a scar reduction effect.

9. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for facial care.

10. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for body care.

11. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for face makeup.

12. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for the care of hair and scalp.

13. Cosmetic use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in the form of cream, gel, serum, foundation, shampoo, conditioner.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for therapeutic use to improve the healing of the cutaneous epidermis.

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