10-Hydroxystearic Acid Cosmetic Composition for Skin Barrier and Anti-Aging

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current hydroxy fatty acids, such as those disclosed in EP1931329, face challenges in commercial production and formulation as effective anti-aging cosmetic ingredients due to limited cosmetic effects and difficulties in establishing soluble product forms for human skin application.

Innovation Solution

The use of 10-hydroxystearic acid, its salts, or esters, in combination with retinoids, as a topical composition for human skin to address anti-aging, skin tone homogeneity, pore size reduction, photo-protection, and skin barrier improvement, leveraging their multiple modes of action and ease of industrial-scale production.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If hydroxy fatty acids are used as cosmetic ingredients, then anti-aging effects are achieved, but limited cosmetic effect and formulation difficulties occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic effectVSAvoidformulation difficulty
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameter by specifically selecting 10-hydroxystearic acid with its unique hydroxyl group position at carbon 10, which provides optimal balance between skin penetration, solubility, and cosmetic efficacy. This specific structural parameter resolution solves the formulation difficulties while maintaining reliable anti-aging effects

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates composite cosmetic formulations by combining 10-hydroxystearic acid with retinoids and other cosmetic ingredients, leveraging synergistic effects to enhance anti-aging performance while improving overall formulation stability and ease of manufacture

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Adaptability or versatility

If multiple hydroxy fatty acids are synthesized, then various cosmetic effects are achieved, but industrial-scale production becomes difficult

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic effect rangeVSAvoidindustrial production scalability
Core Design Contradiction:
Adaptability or versatilityVSProductivity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts and focuses on a single specific compound (10-hydroxystearic acid) from the broader class of hydroxy fatty acids, eliminating the complexity of producing multiple variants while maintaining versatile cosmetic effects through this one optimized molecule

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent demonstrates that 10-hydroxystearic acid possesses multiple cosmetic functions including anti-aging, skin tone improvement, pore size reduction, photo-protection, and skin barrier enhancement, making it a universal ingredient that replaces the need for multiple different hydroxy fatty acids in formulations

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

3Reliability

If hydroxy fatty acids are applied to skin, then anti-aging effects are achieved, but solubility issues in cosmetic products occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveanti-aging effectVSAvoidsolubility
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent utilizes the specific physical-chemical parameters of 10-hydroxystearic acid, particularly its solubility characteristics in different pH ranges and its ability to form stable complexes with retinoids, to achieve both anti-aging efficacy and improved solubility in cosmetic formulations

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent employs solubility-enhancing agents and formulation intermediaries such as esters and salts of 10-hydroxystearic acid, which act as mediators to improve the solubility of the active ingredient while maintaining its anti-aging effectiveness in the final cosmetic product

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Data Source

PatentEP3206659B1Use of a cosmetic composition comprising 10-hydroxystearic acid
Publication Date: 2019.12.25 DSM IP ASSETS BV
  • EP3206659B1 patent drawingFigure 1
  • EP3206659B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of topical compositions comprising 10- hydroxystearic acid, a salt or ester thereof, for application to human skin for improving the condition and appearance of skin more particularly as an anti-wrinkle, for promoting a homogenous skin tone, for reduction of skin pore size, as a photo-protecting agent, and/or for improvement of the skin barrier function.