12-Hydroxystearic Acid Skin Conditioning Composition

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Solution Overview

Problem

12-hydroxystearic acid (12HSA) is a solid with limited water and oil solubility, making it difficult to formulate non-solid skin conditioning compositions, which are desirable for cosmetic applications as they prevent solidification and ensure bioavailability.

Innovation Solution

A non-solid skin conditioning composition comprising 0.01-15% 12-hydroxystearic acid, an aminosilicone with a weight ratio of at least 2:1, and 1-99% water, with a particle having an isoelectric point below the composition's pH when water content exceeds 20%, maintaining 12HSA in a non-crystallized form to prevent solidification.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If 12-hydroxystearic acid is used in skin conditioning compositions, then skin conditioning benefits are achieved, but the composition solidifies and becomes unusable

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin conditioning effectivenessVSAvoidcomposition usability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces water as an intermediary substance to prevent 12HSA crystallization. By incorporating 1-99% water into the composition, the 12HSA remains in a non-crystallized state, preventing solidification while maintaining skin conditioning benefits. The water acts as a mediator that keeps the active ingredient in a usable form.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the physical state parameters of 12HSA by controlling its environment. By adjusting the composition to include specific amounts of water and other ingredients, the 12HSA transitions from a solid crystalline state to a non-crystallized state, enabling the composition to remain liquid or semi-liquid and usable.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Reliability

If 12-hydroxystearic acid is incorporated into the composition, then cosmetic benefits are achieved, but the product solidifies on storage

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecosmetic efficacyVSAvoidproduct physical state stability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

Water serves as a stabilizing intermediary that prevents 12HSA from crystallizing during storage. The presence of water molecules interferes with the crystallization process, keeping 12HSA in a stable non-crystalline form throughout the product's shelf life.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite composition system where 12HSA is combined with water and other ingredients in specific proportions. This composite structure prevents phase separation and crystallization, maintaining a stable homogeneous non-solid state during storage.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

3Reliability

If 12-hydroxystearic acid is used, then skin lightening and sebum inhibition effects are achieved, but the composition becomes solid and non-bioavailable

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin lightening and sebum inhibition effectivenessVSAvoidbioavailability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

By changing the physical state of 12HSA from solid crystalline to non-crystalline through the addition of water and other ingredients, the bioavailability of the active ingredient is significantly improved. The non-crystalline form allows for better penetration and absorption by the skin while maintaining the skin lightening and sebum inhibition effects.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition remains non-solid and non-crystallized, ensuring stability and bioavailability, allowing for effective skin conditioning without solidification upon storage or application, thus maintaining its cosmetic benefits.

Implementation Method 1

12HSA is a solid and has no water solubility and limited oil solubility. Indeed, 12HSA has traditionally been used as gelling agent... non-solid skin conditioning compositions containing 12HSA are highly desirable... 12HSA remains in non-solid, non-crystallized form. Keeping 12HSA in non-crystallized form is crucial, to prevent solidifying of the product

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectCrystallization inhibition: Crystallisation

Implementation Method 2

when the water amount is greater than 20% by weight of the composition the composition further comprises a particle having an isoelectric point below the pH of the composition

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectElectrostatic repulsion: Ion Repulsion/Attraction

Data Source

PatentEP2566439B1Skin conditioning compositions containing 12-hydrocystearic acid
Publication Date: 2017.03.22 UNILEVER PLC
  • EP2566439B1 patent drawing
  • EP2566439B1 patent drawing
  • EP2566439B1 patent drawing

AI summary

Non-solid skin conditioning compositions comprising 12-hydroxy stearic acid, aminosilicone and water are disclosed. The compositions have a relatively low viscosity and are suitable for spreading on the skin.