Acrylic Polymer Microcapsules for Cosmetic Hydration

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current microencapsulation methods face challenges in stabilizing microcapsules with high active ingredient content, particularly with moisturizing agents like glycerol and viscous polymers, which lead to instability and low encapsulation efficiency due to high viscosity issues.

Innovation Solution

The use of an acrylic polymer with a phosphorylcholine group, which is water-soluble and dispersible, allowing for high content encapsulation within microcapsules with a polymeric and/or waxy envelope, enhancing hydration properties and stability.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Quantity of substance

If low molecular weight active ingredients like glycerol are used, then moisturizing effectiveness is improved, but microcapsule stability deteriorates due to polymer plasticization and swelling

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvemoisturizing effectivenessVSAvoidmicrocapsule stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the molecular weight parameter of the active ingredient from low (glycerol <100 g/mole) to high (polymers >1000 g/mole). This parameter change eliminates the plasticization effect that causes instability, while still providing moisturizing benefits through the polymer's hydrophilic properties and water-binding capacity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Quantity of substance

If viscous polymers like hyaluronic acid or guar gum are used, then hydration properties are improved, but emulsion preparation becomes difficult or impossible due to high viscosity

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehydration propertiesVSAvoidemulsion preparation
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the viscosity parameter of the polymer by selecting polymers with appropriate molecular weights and structures that provide hydration benefits without excessive viscosity. The patent specifies polymers with viscosity between 10 and 10,000 cP at 1% concentration, which is low enough to allow proper emulsion formation and dispersion while maintaining effective hydration properties.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Quantity of substance

If high content of active ingredient is encapsulated, then moisturizing effectiveness is improved, but microcapsule stability deteriorates due to polymer plasticization

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveactive ingredient contentVSAvoidmicrocapsule stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the molecular weight parameter of the active ingredient to high values (>1000 g/mole), which eliminates the plasticization effect that occurs with low molecular weight ingredients. This allows high active ingredient content (up to 90% or more of microcapsule weight) to be encapsulated while maintaining stability, because high molecular weight polymers do not plasticize the envelope polymer in the same way.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Ease of operation

If acrylic polymer with phosphorylcholine group is used, then water solubility and dispersibility are improved, but viscosity at high content remains manageable

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewater solubilityVSAvoidpolymer content
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical structure parameter of the polymer by incorporating phosphorylcholine groups into the acrylic polymer chain. This structural modification provides excellent water solubility and dispersibility, allowing high polymer contents (up to 40% by weight or more) to be incorporated into the aqueous core without causing excessive viscosity or phase separation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

This approach enables the encapsulation of high amounts of moisturizing active ingredients, improving hydration and reducing stickiness in cosmetic compositions, while maintaining stability and effectiveness.

Implementation Method 1

The acrylic polymer having a phosphorylcholine type group is easily soluble or dispersible in water and makes it possible to obtain an aqueous solution which does not have a high viscosity, even at high contents of said acrylic polymer

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectWater solubility: Solvation

Implementation Method 2

The acrylic polymer having a phosphorylcholine type group is easily soluble or dispersible in water

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectDispersion: Dispersion (of waves)

Implementation Method 3

The organic solvent is then removed by evaporation

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSolvent evaporation: Evaporation

Implementation Method 4

the preparation of a primary water-in-oil emulsion obtained by dispersing an aqueous composition containing the active ingredient in an organic solution of the polymer and/or the wax forming the envelope of the microcapsule

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion formation: Emulsion

Data Source

PatentEP1764078B1Microcapsules with aqueous core and their use in cosmetic compositions
Publication Date: 2008.05.14 LOREAL SA
  • EP1764078B1 patent drawing
  • EP1764078B1 patent drawing
  • EP1764078B1 patent drawing

AI summary

Microcapsules comprise a polymer envelope and/or wax encapsulating an aqueous medium containing an acrylic polymer with phosphorylcholine group. Independent claims are included for: (1) the preparation of the microcapsules comprising solubilization of an acrylic polymer having phosphorylcholine group in an aqueous medium, emulsification of the aqueous solution in a solution containing at least a polymer insoluble in water and/or a wax insoluble in an organic solvent with water, emulsification of the obtained water-in-oil emulsion in an aqueous solution containing a stabilizing agent of the emulsion and elimination of the organic solvent by evaporation to give the microcapsules in an aqueous suspension form; and (2) a composition comprising the microcapsules in a medium.