Aerated Cosmetic Emulsion Stability via Modified Starch

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional aerated cosmetic creams are unstable due to low relative density and lack freshness and non-stickiness on application, while stable wax-based compositions are unacceptable due to high melting point waxes and low water content.

Innovation Solution

An aerated oil-in-water emulsion with a relative density of 0.2 to 0.9 g/cm³, comprising air or inert gas, modified starch, emulsifier, thickener, and oil-dispersible structuring agents like glyceryl stearate and shea butter, which maintains stability and freshness.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If air or gas is introduced into emulsion to create aerated composition, then lightness and ease of application are improved, but stability deteriorates due to low relative density causing separation

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveease of applicationVSAvoidstability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces a stabilizing agent as an intermediary substance that mediates between the aerated emulsion phases. This stabilizing agent forms a network structure that traps gas bubbles and prevents creaming, allowing the composition to maintain both aeration and stability simultaneously.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite system combining multiple components: emulsifier, stabilizing agent, and gas phase. The stabilizing agent forms a three-dimensional network that复合 with the emulsion droplets and gas bubbles, creating a stable aerated structure that prevents separation while maintaining lightness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Stability of the object's composition

If wax with high melting point is used in aerated composition to improve stability, then stability is improved, but texture becomes heavy and difficult to apply

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovestabilityVSAvoidease of application
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical and chemical parameters of the structuring agents by using modified starches with specific degrees of substitution and cross-linking. This allows the formation of a stable network at lower concentrations without requiring high melting point waxes, thus maintaining ease of application while achieving stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent applies structuring agents locally at specific concentrations (0.1-5% w/w) to create stability only where needed in the continuous phase, rather than using high concentrations of waxes throughout the formulation. This localized approach maintains lightness and ease of application.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Stability of the object's composition

If high concentration of humectants is used in wax-based composition to improve stability, then stability is improved, but stickiness increases making it unacceptable cosmetically

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovestabilityVSAvoidstickiness
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent replaces long-term stable but sticky wax-based systems with a different approach using modified starches that provide temporary stability through their gel network. The modified starch provides sufficient stability during product shelf life without the persistent stickiness associated with high humectant concentrations.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the stabilization mechanism from humectant-based (which causes stickiness) to network-based stabilization using modified starches. By controlling the degree of substitution and cross-linking, the patent achieves stability without requiring high concentrations of sticky humectants.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Quantity of substance

If conventional emulsion is used to maintain water content for freshness, then freshness is improved, but greasiness increases making it unacceptable

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvewater contentVSAvoidgreasiness
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses a partial approach by incorporating only sufficient water content (30-70% w/w) to provide freshness without excessive water that would require high emulsifier concentrations. The modified starch network provides stability at these moderate water levels without creating greasiness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #16Partial or excessive action

Solution Approach 2:

The modified starch acts as an intermediary that allows the system to maintain higher water content for freshness without the need for excessive emulsifiers that would create greasiness. The starch network provides structural support that enables water retention without compromising the cosmetic feel.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves long-term stability and a fresh, non-sticky skin feel by balancing air content and water presence, avoiding the greasiness of conventional emulsions.

Implementation Method 1

attempts have been made to introduce a gas, generally air, therein in order to confer on them a light texture and to give them the appearance of foam. This is what is known as aeration.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAeration: Aeration

Implementation Method 2

Creams are conventionally composed of an emulsion. Emulsions comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in one another.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Data Source

PatentEP3086855B1Stable aerated compositions
Publication Date: 2020.08.26 LOREAL SA

AI summary

The present invention is directed to an aerated composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains air or inert gas in a sufficient amount to have a relative density ranging from about 0.2 to about 0.9 (g/cm3) measured at a temperature of approximately 25°C and at atmospheric pressure, and in that it comprises at least one modified starch, at least one emulsifier, and at least one oil-dispersible structuring agent.