Alkaline Hair Reshaping Without Reducing Agents

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Solution Overview

Problem

Current permanent reshaping processes for keratin fibers, such as hair, are time-consuming, require high skill levels, cause damage, and can lead to hair loss due to over-processing, especially when using reducing and oxidizing agents.

Innovation Solution

A process involving mechanical tension, application of a non-reducing, non-oxidizing alkaline composition with a pH between 7 to 12, covering with a moisture barrier, heating, and then releasing tension, which avoids the use of reducing and oxidizing agents.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Adaptability or versatility

If reducing agents are used to cleave disulphide bonds, then protein chain movement is enabled for reshaping, but hair damage and over-processing occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvereshaping capabilityVSAvoidhair damage
Core Design Contradiction:
Adaptability or versatilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent removes reducing agents and oxidizing agents from the perming process entirely. Instead, it uses only alkaline compositions with pH 7-12 to achieve keratin fiber reshaping, eliminating the harmful effects of chemical reduction and oxidation while maintaining the desired curling effect.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the treatment composition by using alkaline substances with controlled pH levels (7-12) rather than reducing/oxidizing chemicals. The process also controls temperature (50°C-230°C) and processing time to achieve reshaping without damage, demonstrating parameter optimization to resolve the contradiction.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Reliability

If multi-step reducing and oxidizing processes are used, then permanent reshaping is achieved, but processing time increases significantly

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepermanent reshaping effectVSAvoidprocessing time
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSLoss of time

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts and eliminates the time-consuming reducing and oxidizing steps from the traditional perming process. By using only alkaline compositions, the process achieves permanent reshaping in a single step, dramatically reducing processing time while maintaining reliability of the curling effect.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent merges the functions of reducing and oxidizing steps into a single alkaline treatment process. The alkaline composition performs all necessary chemical work for permanent reshaping in one application, eliminating the need for separate reduction and oxidation stages.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #5Merging (Combining)

3Reliability

If reducing compositions are applied for extended periods, then reshaping effectiveness improves, but strong acrid odour and user discomfort increase

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvereshaping effectivenessVSAvoidacrid odour
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent removes reducing compositions from the formulation entirely, replacing them with alkaline compositions that do not produce strong acrid odors. This eliminates the unpleasant sensory experience for both stylists and consumers while maintaining effective reshaping through pH-controlled chemistry.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

This process achieves superior, long-lasting curling results with increased waving properties while minimizing the risk of over-processing and hair damage.

Implementation Method 1

applying to keratin fibers a non-reducing, non-oxidizing alkaline composition with a pH in the range of 7 to 12

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAlkaline treatment:

Implementation Method 2

one or more foaming surfactant(s) selected from non-ionic and/or anionic and/or zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactant(s)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectFoaming: Foam

Implementation Method 3

covering the keratin fibers with a moisture barrier

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectMoisture barrier:

Implementation Method 4

heating the keratin fibers to a temperature in the range of 50°C to 230°C

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHeating: Heating

Data Source

PatentEP3890693B1Process for reshaping keratin fibers
Publication Date: 2025.04.16 KAO GERMANY GMBH
  • EP3890693B1 patent drawing
  • EP3890693B1 patent drawing
  • EP3890693B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a process for reshaping keratin fibers comprising steps of applying a composition comprising an alkalizing agent and a foaming surfactant as well as covering, putting the hair under tension using a curler, covering the curler with a moisture barrier, and heating the keratin fibers. As a result, a long- lasting curl having cosmetic properties is achieved.