Ambient-Temperature Permanent Waving of Keratin Fibers
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing permanent waving processes for keratin fibers, particularly human hair, often result in damage due to inappropriate processing times and the use of heat, leading to less strength, brittleness, and inadequate curling results.
Innovation Solution
A process involving sequential application of reducing, alkalizing, and acidic compositions at ambient temperature, followed by an oxidizing step, without heat, to achieve soft, smooth, and well-defined curls.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Productivity
If heat application is used during processing of the reducing agent on the fibers, then curling efficiency is improved, but fiber damage increases significantly
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the temperature parameter from elevated (heat perming) to ambient temperature processing. The reducing composition is applied at room temperature and processed without external heating, thereby eliminating thermal damage to the hair fibers while still achieving effective curling through optimized chemical composition and processing time.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent replaces the thermal energy input system (heat perming machines) with a chemical system optimized for ambient temperature processing. The reducing composition contains specific agents and pH buffers that enable disulfide bond reduction at room temperature, substituting thermal activation with chemically-driven reaction kinetics.
2Stability of the object's composition
If the processing period of the reducing composition is extended, then more complete reduction is achieved, but fiber strength decreases and brittleness increases
Solution Approach 1:
The patent optimizes the processing time parameter to a specific range (5-30 minutes) that achieves sufficient reduction without over-processing. This time window allows complete enough disulfide bond reduction for effective curling while preventing excessive damage to the hair fiber structure.
Solution Approach 2:
The reducing composition is formulated with specific local properties including pH buffers (pH 8-10), chelating agents, and protective conditioners that are distributed throughout the composition. These components create a controlled chemical environment that enables reduction to proceed uniformly and completely within the optimized time frame without causing localized damage.
3Shape
If conventional reducing and oxidizing steps are used, then permanent waving is achieved, but hair feels brittle and unnatural upon touching
Solution Approach 1:
The patent introduces an intermediate alkaline composition step between the reducing and oxidizing steps. This intermediate treatment with alkaline agents (pH 9-11) applied for 5-20 minutes serves as a mediator that restores hair smoothness and natural feel by adjusting the hair cuticle structure, while the subsequent oxidizing step completes the permanent wave formation.
Solution Approach 2:
The reducing composition is formulated as a composite system containing multiple functional components: reducing agents (thioglycolic acid or cysteine), pH buffers (ammonium hydroxide or monoethanolamine), chelating agents (EDTA), and protective conditioners. This composite formulation works synergistically to achieve complete reduction while protecting fiber integrity and maintaining natural feel.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The process results in natural-feeling, homogeneous, and intensive curls with reduced damage, enhancing the hair's appearance and feel.
Implementation Method 1
an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agent is applied and left on the fibers for a period of 1 to 60 min
Implementation Method 2
an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide or bromate salt, is applied onto fibers and left on the fibers for a period 1 to 30 min
Data Source
AI summary
Present invention relates to a process for permanent waving keratin fibers, especially human hair, for achieving durable waves wherein fibers are treated with a reducing composition, a non-reducing and non-oxidizing alkaline composition, a non-reducing and non-oxidizing acidic composition and finally an oxidizing composition wherein after processing the reducing composition the fibers are rinsed off.