Ambient-Temperature TRIS Process for Durable Keratin Curls

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing permanent waving processes for keratin fibers, particularly human hair, often result in fiber damage due to inappropriate processing times and the use of heat, leading to weakened, brittle hair with poor cosmetic qualities and a strong odor from alkalizing agents.

Innovation Solution

A process involving the use of tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane (TRIS) as an alkalizing agent in an aqueous alkaline composition applied after reducing, followed by an optional acidic composition and an oxidizing agent, all at ambient temperature, to achieve strong, natural-looking curls without heat application.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Productivity

If heat application is used during processing of the reducing agent on the fibers, then curling efficiency is improved, but fiber damage increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecurling efficiencyVSAvoidfiber damage
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention changes the temperature parameter from elevated (heat processing) to ambient temperature processing. The reducing composition is formulated to work effectively at ambient temperature, eliminating thermal damage to the fiber while maintaining curling efficiency through optimized chemical composition and processing time.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention replaces the thermal energy system (heat application) with a chemical energy system. The reducing composition contains agents that chemically break disulfide bonds at ambient temperature, substituting the need for external heat while achieving the same structural modification in the keratin fibers.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #28Mechanics substitution (Replace mechanical system)

2Stability of the object's composition

If strongly smelling alkalizing agents are used, then pH adjustment is achieved, but odor burden increases

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovepH adjustmentVSAvoidodor burden
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention uses mild, non-odorous alkalizing agents that can be easily rinsed off, replacing strongly smelling agents like ammonia. The mild agents achieve sufficient pH adjustment for the reducing composition to work effectively, and their temporary action followed by complete removal eliminates odor burden while maintaining functional efficacy.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

3Duration of action of moving object

If processing period of the reducing composition is extended, then reduction completeness is improved, but fiber damage increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvereduction completenessVSAvoidfiber damage
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of moving objectVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The invention optimizes the concentration parameters of the reducing composition to achieve effective reduction at shorter processing times. By adjusting the strength and composition of the reducing agents, the patent achieves complete disulfide bond breakage within a reduced time frame, preventing over-processing damage while ensuring thorough reduction.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The process results in soft, smooth, and well-defined curls with minimal damage, improving hair elasticity, shine, and combability, while eliminating the odor associated with traditional alkalizing agents.

Implementation Method 1

an aqueous composition comprising one or more reducing agent is applied and left on the fibers for a period of 1 to 60 min

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectReduction: Reduction

Implementation Method 2

an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents is applied onto fibers and left on the fibers for a period 1 to 30 min

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Data Source

PatentUS12409120B2Process for permanent waving keratin fibers
Publication Date: 2025.09.09 KAO GERMANY GMBH
  • US12409120B2 patent drawing
  • US12409120B2 patent drawing

AI summary

Compositions and processes disclosed herein permanent wave keratin fibers and/or human hair for achieving durable waves. The keratin fibers and/or human hair are treated with a reducing composition, a non-reducing and non-oxidizing composition comprising tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, optionally a non-reducing and non-oxidizing acidic composition. Subsequently, the keratin fibers and/or human hair are treated with an oxidizing composition wherein after processing the reducing composition is rinsed off the keratin fibers and/or human hair.