Amphoteric Polymer Hair Conditioning Without Build-Up

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing hair care compositions, particularly those containing cationic polymers and silicones, can lead to a build-up effect on hair fibers, causing lankness and a lack of fluidity, while also failing to provide long-lasting cleanliness and aesthetic appeal.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic composition combining specific amphoteric polymers, such as acrylamide/methylacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid terpolymers, with conditioning agents like plant oils, mineral oils, and fatty acid diesters, which are present in specific weight percentages to prevent build-up and enhance hair texture and appearance.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If cationic polymers and silicones are used in hair care compositions, then conditioning properties and fluid sensation are improved, but build-up effect occurs causing lankness

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveconditioning propertiesVSAvoidbuild-up effect
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the polymer by using amphoteric polymers with specific charge densities and molecular weights, and adjusts the concentration ranges of conditioning agents to prevent excessive deposition while maintaining conditioning effects

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent combines amphoteric polymers with specific conditioning agents (plant oils, mineral oils, fatty acid diesters) in defined ratios to create a composite formulation that provides conditioning benefits while preventing the build-up associated with single-component systems

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If conditioning agents are deposited repeatedly on hair fibres, then conditioning effect is enhanced, but lankness and reduced lightness occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveconditioning effectVSAvoidlankness
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the deposition parameters by controlling the charge density of amphoteric polymers and the concentration of conditioning agents, ensuring optimal deposition that provides conditioning without excessive accumulation that causes lankness

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates different functional zones within the formulation by combining polymers with specific charge characteristics and conditioning agents with different molecular weights and compositions, allowing targeted deposition patterns that enhance conditioning while preventing lankness in specific areas

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Stability of the object's composition

If homogeneous cosmetic effects are achieved on fibres, then aesthetic appearance is improved, but product complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvehomogeneous cosmetic effectsVSAvoidproduct formulation
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses amphoteric polymers that can interact with both positive and negative charges on hair surfaces, allowing a single ingredient to provide multiple functions including conditioning, anti-static effects, and homogeneous distribution, thereby achieving uniform cosmetic effects without proportionally increasing formulation complexity

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Data Source

PatentEP2723308B2Cosmetic composition comprising at least one particular amphoteric polymer and at least one particular conditioning agent
Publication Date: 2023.08.30 LOREAL SA
  • EP2723308B2 patent drawing
  • EP2723308B2 patent drawing
  • EP2723308B2 patent drawing

AI summary

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one particular amphoteric polymer and at least one particular conditioning agent The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: a)- one or more amphoteric polymers comprising a repetition of: (i) one or more unitsobtained froma monomer of (meth)acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units obtained from a monomer of (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more unitsobtained from an acidic monomer of (meth)acrylic acid type, the said amphoteric polymer(s) being present in the composition in an amount ofbetween 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition, and b)- one or more conditioning agents chosen from plant oils, mineral oils, non-volatile linear silicones of polydialkylsiloxane structure, non-volatile linear silicones of polydiarylsiloxane structure, non-volatile linear silicones of polyalkylarylsiloxane structure, fatty acid diesters ofpolyethylene glycol comprising from2 to 50 oxyethylene units, and a mixture thereof. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres using such a composition, and to a cosmetic use for facilitating the styling and/or for improving the suppleness, smoothness and/or disentangling of the hair.