Amphoteric Polymer Hair Dye Composition Reducing Scalp Irritation

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Solution Overview

Problem

Conventional hair dye and bleaching compositions using ammonia cause unpleasant odors, scalp discomfort, and damage to hair fibers, while alternatives like monoethanolamine may reduce ammonia exposure but still cause irritation and greater hair damage.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising at least 0.15% neutralized fatty acid, non-ionic surfactants, non-associative amphoteric or cationic polymers, at least 10% fatty substances other than fatty acids, and an oxidizing agent, which minimizes ammonia release and scalp discomfort while maintaining effective coloring and bleaching properties.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If ammonia is used as an alkaline agent in hair dyeing compositions, then effective coloring and lightening properties are achieved, but unpleasant odors and scalp irritation occur

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecoloring effectivenessVSAvoidscalp irritation
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent introduces a specific polymer complex as an intermediary substance that modifies the interaction between ammonia and the scalp. The polymer, with its specific molecular weight and charge characteristics, acts as a mediator that reduces ammonia's direct contact and harmful effects on the scalp while preserving its necessary alkaline function for hair coloring and lightening.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent changes the physical and chemical parameters of the alkaline environment by introducing a polymer that modifies ammonia's behavior. The polymer's presence alters the pH profile, ammonia release kinetics, and overall chemical environment, reducing irritation while maintaining coloring effectiveness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Reliability

If ammonia is used in hair dyeing compositions, then good coloring performance is achieved, but hair fiber damage increases over time

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecoloring performanceVSAvoidhair fiber strength
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStrength

Solution Approach 1:

The patent applies beforehand cushioning by introducing a polymer that protects hair fibers from ammonia damage before the harmful effects can occur. The polymer forms a protective complex with ammonia, cushioning its harsh effects on the hair structure while allowing the necessary chemical reactions for coloring to proceed.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #11Beforehand cushioning (Prior cushioning)

Solution Approach 2:

The polymer acts as an intermediary that facilitates the coloring reaction while protecting the hair fiber. It mediates between the alkaline agent and the hair structure, allowing color deposition while preventing excessive damage to the keratin framework.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

3Object-generated harmful factors

If monoethanolamine is used to replace ammonia, then ammonia exposure is reduced, but scalp irritation and hair damage increase

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveammonia exposureVSAvoidscalp discomfort
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-generated harmful factorsVSObject-affected harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical parameters of the alkaline system by using a polymer with specific molecular weight and charge characteristics. This parameter change creates a different chemical environment that reduces both ammonia exposure and scalp irritation simultaneously, unlike monoethanolamine which worsens irritation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Object-affected harmful factors

If conventional conditioning polymers are added to reduce scalp discomfort, then some comfort improvement is achieved, but polymer deposition on hair remains insufficient

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvescalp comfortVSAvoidpolymer deposition
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-affected harmful factorsVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the polymer parameters including molecular weight, charge density, and chemical structure to achieve dual functionality. The specific parameter range enables the polymer to interact with both the scalp (reducing irritation) and the hair fiber (improving deposition and conditioning effects).

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition reduces scalp irritation and hair damage while maintaining strong, resistant colorations and satisfactory lightening of hair fibers, providing improved deposition of conditioning polymers and odor minimization.

Implementation Method 1

oxidizing compositions, more particularly for dyeing human keratin fibres, with dyeing compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally referred to as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds which, in combination with oxidizing products, give rise, by a process of oxidative condensation, to coloured compounds.

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidative condensation: Oxidation

Implementation Method 2

the lightening of the fibre has the advantageous effect of bringing about a unified colour in the case of depigmented hair

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectOxidation: Oxidation

Data Source

PatentUS11446222B2Composition for treating keratin fibers comprising an amphoteric or cationic polymer and neutralized fatty acid
Publication Date: 2022.09.20 LOREAL SA
  • US11446222B2 patent drawing
  • US11446222B2 patent drawing
  • US11446222B2 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a composition for dyeing and/or bleaching human keratin fibers, such as the hair, comprising: a) at 0.15% of at least one neutralized fatty acid, please confirm the minimum amount of fatty acid salt in the ready to use composition b) at least one non ionic surfactant, c) at least one non associative polymer chosen from amphoteric polymers, cationic polymers and mixture thereof, d) at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, e) at least one oxidizing agent, and f) optionally at least one oxidation dye precursor and/or at least one direct dye. The invention also relates to a method for treating human keratin fibres using this composition.