Anhydrous Cosmetic Composition Using Composite Fillers for Matte Finish

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic compositions struggle to provide a comfortable, matte finish while effectively blurring skin imperfections and reducing shine, as existing solutions often result in dryness, greasiness, or an uncomfortable feel.

Innovation Solution

An anhydrous composition combining a lipophilic gelling agent, selected fillers like porous silica and N-acylated amino acid powders, and a fatty phase with hydrocarbon oils, which balances sensory comfort and cosmetic performance.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Illumination intensity

If mineral or organic fillers are used to achieve soft-focus blurring effect and mattifying, then optical smoothing and light reflection are improved, but skin feels dry, rough, and uncomfortable

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvelight reflectionVSAvoidskin comfort
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent combines multiple types of fillers (mineral fillers like silica and organic fillers like cellulose spherical particles) in specific proportions to create a composite filling system that balances optical performance with sensory comfort, eliminating the dryness and roughness associated with single-component filler systems

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent specifies precise particle size ranges (D10, D50, D90 parameters) and size distribution ratios for the fillers to optimize both the soft-focus optical effect and the tactile comfort on skin, transforming the physical parameters of the filler particles to achieve dual performance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Illumination intensity

If oil-based formulations are used to provide soft focus effect, then optical blurring is improved, but skin becomes shiny and greasy

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveoptical blurringVSAvoidgreasy feeling
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent carefully controls the oil content within specific ranges (20-40% or 25-35% of total weight) and selects oils with specific properties to maintain optical blurring effects while preventing excessive shine and greasiness on the skin surface

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses different types of oils (vegetable hydrocarbon oils, Guerbet alcohols, fatty acid esters) with different properties in combination to achieve localized optimization of both optical and sensory characteristics across the formulation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

3Illumination intensity

If cross-linked silicones are used to achieve matte and soft-focus effects, then optical performance is improved, but skin feels uncomfortable, greasy, and warm with mask-like effect

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesoft-focus effectVSAvoidsensory comfort
Core Design Contradiction:
Illumination intensityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent combines mineral fillers, organic fillers, and specifically selected oils in a multi-component composite system that replicates the optical benefits of silicones while avoiding their negative sensory effects, creating a synergistic formulation where each component contributes to both optical and sensory performance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition achieves a comfortable, matte finish that blurs skin imperfections, reduces shine, and provides a natural skin texture without the drawbacks of traditional oily products, maintaining stability and sensory benefits over time.

Implementation Method 1

mineral or organic fillers with a 'soft-focus' blurring effect that absorb oil

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdsorption: Adsorption

Implementation Method 2

anhydrous composition comprising a lipophilic gelling agent, at least a specific filler and a fatty phase

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectGel formation: Gel

Implementation Method 3

cellulose spherical particles... that absorb oil, ensures a stunning 'photoshop' optical effect... to optically smooth the microrelief

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectLight scattering: Scattering

Implementation Method 4

N-acylated amino acid powders having a C8-C22 acyl group... to mattify the skin

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdsorption: Adsorption

Data Source

PatentEP3160424B1Anhydrous composition comprising a lipophilic gelling agent, at least a specific filler and a fatty phase
Publication Date: 2020.12.09 LOREAL SA
  • EP3160424B1 patent drawing
  • EP3160424B1 patent drawing
  • EP3160424B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition including: 3 wt % to 15 wt % of at least one lipophilic gelling agent; 20 wt % to 50 wt % of at least one filler selected among spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and powders of N-acyl amino acid having a C8-C22 acyl group; and 40 wt % to 85 wt % of at least one oil phase containing at least 20 wt % of at least one oil selected among hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol ethers comprising 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and straight alkanes comprising 7 to 17 carbon atoms; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention makes it possible to obtain comfortable anhydrous care with a "soft-focus" effect, i.e. making it possible to mattify and/or optically smooth the microrelief of the skin, fill in wrinkles, conceal skin imperfections, and improve light reflection while ensuring a pleasant touch and a novel sensory property: oil-based care which is neither greasy nor sticky, and which converts to powder in particular during the application thereof and a skin finish that is velvety and allows the skin to breathe.