Anhydrous Cosmetic Encapsulation Particles

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic formulations face challenges in creating anhydrous solid compositions that effectively encapsulate beneficial agents, such as perfumes, to prevent moisture exposure and ensure controlled release, while maintaining a light texture and compatibility with other ingredients.

Innovation Solution

The development of solid anhydrous compositions featuring particles with a hydrophobic modified polysaccharide envelope, specifically C5-C20-alkenyl starch succinate, and a water-soluble carbohydrate, maltodextrins with a Dextrose Equivalent ranging from 4 to 20, which are spherical, have a low density, and include a structuring agent, allowing for complete encapsulation and controlled release of the beneficial agent upon contact with water.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If encapsulation particles are used to protect beneficial agents from moisture, then protection and stability are improved, but the composition may become heavy or dense

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveprotection of beneficial agentVSAvoiddensity of composition
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSWeight of moving object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the shell composition parameters by using hydrophobic modified polysaccharides with specific molecular weights and compositions, achieving both protection and low density. The shell is designed with controlled thickness and porosity parameters to maintain lightness while providing effective moisture barrier protection.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses composite shell materials combining hydrophobic modified polysaccharides with other biodegradable polymers to create a lightweight yet protective structure. This composite approach allows the shell to provide effective moisture protection while maintaining low density for a light texture in the final composition.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Duration of action of moving object

If encapsulation particles are used to control release of beneficial agents, then controlled delivery is improved, but the particle structure becomes more complex

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecontrolled releaseVSAvoidparticle structure
Core Design Contradiction:
Duration of action of moving objectVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs porous shell structures with controlled pore sizes and distributions to achieve controlled release of beneficial agents. The porous structure allows simple particle design while enabling sustained delivery through diffusion control, avoiding the need for complex multi-layer or mechanically actuated release mechanisms.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #31Porous materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses flexible thin-film shells made from biodegradable polymers that can respond to environmental stimuli such as moisture or pH changes to control release. This approach provides controlled delivery through simple shell design rather than complex internal structures or mechanisms.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #30Flexible shells and thin films

3Stability of the object's composition

If anhydrous solid composition is used for ease of use and storage, then stability and convenience are improved, but the formulation becomes more difficult to develop

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestability of formulationVSAvoidformulation development
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSEase of manufacture

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses encapsulation particles as intermediary carriers that simplify anhydrous formulation development. The particles pre-encapsulate beneficial agents in stable structures, acting as ready-to-use building blocks that can be easily incorporated into anhydrous matrices, thereby reducing formulation complexity while maintaining stability.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #24Intermediary (Mediator)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent modifies physical parameters such as particle size distribution, shell composition, and moisture content to optimize the balance between stability and ease of formulation. By controlling these parameters, the patent achieves stable anhydrous compositions that are straightforward to manufacture and formulate.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Weight of moving object

If particles have low poured powder density for light texture, then sensory properties are improved, but the encapsulation protection may be compromised

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvepoured powder densityVSAvoidencapsulation protection
Core Design Contradiction:
Weight of moving objectVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs flexible thin-film shells that provide effective encapsulation protection despite the low density of the overall particle structure. The thin-film design maintains protective integrity while contributing minimally to overall particle weight, achieving both light texture and reliable encapsulation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #30Flexible shells and thin films

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses composite shell materials with optimized density and protective properties to create particles that are both lightweight and highly protective. The composite structure allows the shell to provide robust encapsulation while maintaining low overall particle density for a light, pleasant texture in the final composition.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

These compositions provide complete encapsulation of fragile or volatile molecules, maintaining stability and preventing moisture exposure, while ensuring a light texture and compatibility with other formulation ingredients, enabling immediate, gradual, and repeatable release of the beneficial agent on the skin or hair.

Implementation Method 1

said shell comprising at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide selected from C5-C20-alkenyl succinate starch

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrophobic interaction: Hydrophobe

Implementation Method 2

said particles simultaneously having a poured powder density ranging from 300.0g/l to 600.0g/l and an absolute density greater than 1.0; the particles being spherical, and having a number mean diameter ranging from 1 to 30μm, and a volume mean diameter ranging from 5 to 150μm

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydration: Hydrates

Data Source

PatentEP3166580B1Solid anhydrous cosmetic or dermatologic composition based on delivery particles containing a benefit agent
Publication Date: 2020.03.18 LOREAL SA
  • EP3166580B1 patent drawing
  • EP3166580B1 patent drawing
  • EP3166580B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The invention relates to a solid anhydrous composition comprising: (1) at least particles comprising a core containing at least one beneficial agent and a casing surrounding the core, the casing comprising at least one hydrophobic modified polysaccharide and at least one hydrosoluble carbohydrate and/or hydrosoluble polyol, the particles simultaneously having a poured powder density ranging from 300.0 g/l to 600.0 g/l and an absolute density of more than 1.0; and (2) at least one structuring agent. The invention also relates to a cosmetic care and/or sanitary and/or conditioning and/or perfuming and/or make-up method for keratinic matter, consisting in applying to the keratinic matter a composition as defined above. The invention further relates to a cosmetic method for the treatment of body odours and optionally human perspiration consisting in applying to keratinic matter a composition as defined above comprising at least one deodorant and/or an antiperspirant in free form and/or in encapsulated form.