Anhydrous Cream-to-Powder Foundation with Low Wax and High Powder Load

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic foundations for deeper skin tones often result in undesirable dull or ashy appearances due to high wax levels and oil-absorbing fillers, which lead to poor texture and coverage, while also failing to provide natural skin tone and long-lasting oil control.

Innovation Solution

An anhydrous cosmetic composition with a high powder load (>30%) and low wax content (<5%), incorporating aluminum-based starch, aluminum-based starch and (met)acrylates polymer blend, polymeric filler, liquid fatty ester, silicone solvent, and specific waxes, which transitions from a creamy to a powder texture upon application, maintaining oil and shine control while imparting true color.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Stability of the object's composition

If high levels of waxes are used in hot pour foundations, then the composition provides structure and stability, but the texture becomes hard powder-like with poor product pick up and coverage

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestructure and stabilityVSAvoidproduct pick up and coverage
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the wax content parameter from high levels (conventional) to low levels (less than 5%), which fundamentally alters the texture and performance characteristics of the foundation. This parameter change enables the composition to have creamy texture with good product pick up while maintaining stability through the high powder load and specific polymer-starch blend

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Stability of the object's composition

If high levels of waxes are used in hot pour foundations, then the composition maintains structural integrity, but the color appearance becomes dull and unnatural due to opacification

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvestructural integrityVSAvoidcolor appearance and natural skin tone
Core Design Contradiction:
Stability of the object's compositionVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

By changing the wax content parameter to low levels (less than 5%), the patent eliminates the opacifying effect that causes dullness and unnatural appearance. The high powder load and specific polymer-starch blend maintain structural integrity without compromising color appearance, enabling true color and natural skin tone presentation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Quantity of substance

If polymeric and mineral fillers as well as starches are incorporated as oil-absorptive components, then oil absorption and matte properties are improved, but the composition imparts undesirable ashy and/or dull appearance

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveoil absorption capacityVSAvoidappearance quality (ashy and/or dull)
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSIllumination intensity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses a composite material system consisting of aluminum-based starch and aluminum-based starch and (met)acrylates polymer blend. This composite provides superior oil absorption capacity while avoiding the ashy and dull appearance associated with conventional polymeric and mineral fillers, thus resolving the contradiction between oil absorption and appearance quality

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

4Quantity of substance

If high powder load is used in the composition, then oil absorption and shine control are enhanced, but the formulation becomes difficult to apply with poor product pick up

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveoil absorption and shine controlVSAvoidproduct pick up
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the texture parameter from hard powder (conventional high powder formulations) to creamy texture through low wax content and specific polymer-starch blend. This parameter change enables high powder load formulations to have good product pick up and ease of application while maintaining enhanced oil absorption and shine control

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition provides improved oil absorption, matte finish, and natural skin tone, reducing dullness and ashiness, with enhanced product pick-up and coverage, and maintains oil and shine control throughout wear.

Implementation Method 1

Polymeric and mineral fillers as well as starches are well-known in the cosmetic field. Such fillers and starches are generally incorporated into cosmetic compositions as oil-absorptive components

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAbsorption: Absorption (physical)

Implementation Method 2

an anhydrous, hot pour, cosmetic composition having low wax levels and which transitions from a crème to a powder texture upon application to a keratinous substrate

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectPhase transition: Phase Change

Data Source

PatentUS9333165B1Cream to powder cosmetic compositions
Publication Date: 2016.05.10 LOREAL SA

AI summary

Cosmetic compositions comprise, (a) at least one aluminum-based starch, (b) at least one aluminum-based starch/(meth)acrylates polymer blend, (c) at least one polymeric filler, (d) at least one liquid fatty ester, (e) at least one silicone solvent, (f) at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 70° C., (g) at least one wax having a melting point less than 70° C., (h) a coloring agent, and (i) optionally a filler other than (c); wherein the total amount of waxes ((f)+(g)) is less than about 5%. Methods for making up and/or enhancing the appearance of a keratinous substrate, such as the skin, comprise applying said compositions to the keratinous substrate, and included is a method of making the compositions.