Anhydrous Cream-to-Powder Foundation with Low Wax and High Powder Load
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Solution Overview
Problem
Cosmetic foundations for deeper skin tones often result in undesirable dull or ashy appearances due to high wax levels and oil-absorbing fillers, which lead to poor texture and coverage, while also failing to provide natural skin tone and long-lasting oil control.
Innovation Solution
An anhydrous cosmetic composition with a high powder load (>30%) and low wax content (<5%), incorporating aluminum-based starch, aluminum-based starch and (met)acrylates polymer blend, polymeric filler, liquid fatty ester, silicone solvent, and specific waxes, which transitions from a creamy to a powder texture upon application, maintaining oil and shine control while imparting true color.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Stability of the object's composition
If high levels of waxes are used in hot pour foundations, then the composition provides structure and stability, but the texture becomes hard powder-like with poor product pick up and coverage
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the wax content parameter from high levels (conventional) to low levels (less than 5%), which fundamentally alters the texture and performance characteristics of the foundation. This parameter change enables the composition to have creamy texture with good product pick up while maintaining stability through the high powder load and specific polymer-starch blend
2Stability of the object's composition
If high levels of waxes are used in hot pour foundations, then the composition maintains structural integrity, but the color appearance becomes dull and unnatural due to opacification
Solution Approach 1:
By changing the wax content parameter to low levels (less than 5%), the patent eliminates the opacifying effect that causes dullness and unnatural appearance. The high powder load and specific polymer-starch blend maintain structural integrity without compromising color appearance, enabling true color and natural skin tone presentation
3Quantity of substance
If polymeric and mineral fillers as well as starches are incorporated as oil-absorptive components, then oil absorption and matte properties are improved, but the composition imparts undesirable ashy and/or dull appearance
Solution Approach 1:
The patent uses a composite material system consisting of aluminum-based starch and aluminum-based starch and (met)acrylates polymer blend. This composite provides superior oil absorption capacity while avoiding the ashy and dull appearance associated with conventional polymeric and mineral fillers, thus resolving the contradiction between oil absorption and appearance quality
4Quantity of substance
If high powder load is used in the composition, then oil absorption and shine control are enhanced, but the formulation becomes difficult to apply with poor product pick up
Solution Approach 1:
The patent changes the texture parameter from hard powder (conventional high powder formulations) to creamy texture through low wax content and specific polymer-starch blend. This parameter change enables high powder load formulations to have good product pick up and ease of application while maintaining enhanced oil absorption and shine control
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
The composition provides improved oil absorption, matte finish, and natural skin tone, reducing dullness and ashiness, with enhanced product pick-up and coverage, and maintains oil and shine control throughout wear.
Implementation Method 1
Polymeric and mineral fillers as well as starches are well-known in the cosmetic field. Such fillers and starches are generally incorporated into cosmetic compositions as oil-absorptive components
Implementation Method 2
an anhydrous, hot pour, cosmetic composition having low wax levels and which transitions from a crème to a powder texture upon application to a keratinous substrate
Data Source
AI summary
Cosmetic compositions comprise, (a) at least one aluminum-based starch, (b) at least one aluminum-based starch/(meth)acrylates polymer blend, (c) at least one polymeric filler, (d) at least one liquid fatty ester, (e) at least one silicone solvent, (f) at least one wax having a melting point greater than or equal to 70° C., (g) at least one wax having a melting point less than 70° C., (h) a coloring agent, and (i) optionally a filler other than (c); wherein the total amount of waxes ((f)+(g)) is less than about 5%. Methods for making up and/or enhancing the appearance of a keratinous substrate, such as the skin, comprise applying said compositions to the keratinous substrate, and included is a method of making the compositions.