Anhydrous Keratin Composition for Matte, Lightweight Application

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing cosmetic compositions for caring for and making up keratin materials, such as lips, face challenges in providing easy application, matte deposit, and a lightweight sensation, often resulting in greasiness and inadequate coverage.

Innovation Solution

An anhydrous composition comprising organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with silicone resin, organopolysiloxane elastomer in a first oil, fillers like polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, without wax, to achieve a matte deposit and lightweight sensation.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If liquid compositions without waxes comprising nonvolatile oils with molecular weight greater than 600 g/mol are used, then the composition is easy to apply, but the deposited layers exhibit a glossy feeling and greasiness on the lips

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveapplication easeVSAvoidgreasiness and glossiness
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSObject-generated harmful factors

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical and chemical parameters of the oil phase by using volatile hydrocarbon oils with specific molecular weights (100-300 g/mol) instead of high molecular weight oils, and controls the volatility and evaporation characteristics to achieve matte finish while maintaining application ease

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite formulation combining volatile hydrocarbon oils with specific elastomers (silicone-based and non-silicone), fillers, and pigments to achieve a synergistic effect that provides both easy application and matte non-greasy finish

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Object-generated harmful factors

If compositions with waxes are used, then a matte deposit can be achieved, but the application becomes difficult and the texture is heavy

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvematte deposit qualityVSAvoidapplication ease
Core Design Contradiction:
Object-generated harmful factorsVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent extracts and eliminates waxes from the formulation entirely, replacing their matte-forming function with a combination of volatile oils and specific elastomers that provide matte finish without the heaviness and application difficulty associated with waxes

Inventive Principle:
Principle #2Taking out (Extraction)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses volatile hydrocarbon oils that evaporate after application, providing temporary matte finish and texture control during application, then disappear to leave a lightweight, non-greasy feel without the persistent heaviness of wax-based systems

Inventive Principle:
Principle #27Cheap short-living objects (Disposable)

3Quantity of substance

If compositions with high filler content are used, then good coverage is achieved, but the texture becomes heavy and application becomes difficult

Engineering Contradiction:
ImprovecoverageVSAvoidapplication ease
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the particle size, shape, and surface treatment of fillers, and adjusts their size distribution to maintain high coverage while ensuring the formulation remains lightweight and easy to apply

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent uses different types of fillers with different properties (inorganic and organic, spherical and irregular shapes) to provide coverage in different areas and at different depths, achieving good coverage without uniform heaviness throughout the formulation

Inventive Principle:
Principle #3Local quality

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition is easy to apply and provides a matte, lightweight sensation on keratin materials, enhancing application ease and coverage.

Implementation Method 1

d) at least one second oil, which is a volatile hydrocarbon oil

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEvaporation: Evaporation

Data Source

PatentUS12539265B2Anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials
Publication Date: 2026.02.03 LOREAL SA
  • US12539265B2 patent drawing

AI summary

An anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, which is liquid and comprises: a) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer powder coated with a silicone resin; b) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer conveyed in a first oil; c) at least two fillers including polymethylsilsesquioxane and calcium aluminum borosilicate; and d) at least one second oil, which is a volatile hydrocarbon oil, wherein the composition does not comprise a wax and comprises more than 15 wt % of fillers, relative to the total weight of the composition.