Anionic Surfactant Hair Composition with Solid Fatty Esters

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing hair conditioners using cationic surfactants, silicones, or oils often weigh hair down and fail to provide effective detangling and straightening while maintaining hair quality, especially for sensitized or curly hair, and lack color protection during washing.

Innovation Solution

A cosmetic treatment process using a composition comprising at least one anionic sulfate or sulfonate surfactant with fatty chains ≥14 carbon atoms, one or more solid fatty alcohols, and one or more solid fatty esters, which are insoluble in water, applied to keratin fibers to improve detangling, softness, and shine, while reducing volume and providing color protection.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Ease of operation

If insoluble conditioning agents (fatty alcohols, oils, silicones) are used to improve detangling and softness, then cosmetic performance is enhanced, but the composition becomes difficult to stabilize and causes weight/load/regreasing of hair

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedetangling and softnessVSAvoidcomposition stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the physical state parameter of conditioning agents from insoluble (oils, waxes) to soluble forms by using fatty acid derivatives that can be dissolved in aqueous surfactant systems. This resolves the contradiction by maintaining cosmetic benefits while achieving composition stability without requiring complex stabilization mechanisms.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent utilizes phase transition principles by selecting fatty acid derivatives that transition from solid/insoluble state to dissolved state in the aqueous composition. The specific selection of fatty acid chains (C12-C22) ensures optimal solubility and phase behavior, allowing the conditioning agents to remain dissolved and stable in the final formulation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #36Phase transitions

2Ease of operation

If insoluble conditioning agents are used to improve detangling and softness, then cosmetic performance is enhanced, but the hair becomes weighed down and dull

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedetangling and softnessVSAvoidhair weight and load
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSWeight of moving object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the molecular weight and physical state parameters by using lighter fatty acid derivatives (C12-C22 chains) instead of heavy oils and waxes. These derivatives provide conditioning benefits through molecular interaction with hair keratin while contributing minimal weight, thus resolving the contradiction between detangling performance and hair weight.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of operation

If high concentration of conditioning agents is used to improve detangling and straightening, then cosmetic performance is enhanced, but the hair becomes weighed down

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvedetangling and straighteningVSAvoidhair weight
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSWeight of moving object

Solution Approach 1:

The patent optimizes the concentration parameter by using highly efficient fatty acid derivatives that provide maximum conditioning effect at low concentrations (0.1-5% in the composition). The molecular structure of these derivatives allows strong interaction with hair proteins, enabling effective detangling and straightening without requiring high doses that would weigh down the hair.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The composition enhances hair flexibility, shine, and reduces volume, offering better control and color protection without weighing the hair down, achieving improved cosmetic performance for both wet and dry hair.

Implementation Method 1

The composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant... applied to said keratin fibers... to improve detangling and softness

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAdsorption: Adsorption

Implementation Method 2

one or more solid fatty alcohols... one or more solid fatty esters of monoalcohols... improve weaving, softness, flexibility and shine

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectDeposition: Deposition (physical)

Data Source

PatentEP2793831B2Cosmetic treatment process with a composition comprising an anionic surfactant, a solid fatty alcohol and a solid fatty ester
Publication Date: 2021.11.10 LOREAL SA
  • EP2793831B2 patent drawing
  • EP2793831B2 patent drawing
  • EP2793831B2 patent drawing

AI summary

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for conditioning the hair, comprising: - one or more sulphate, sulphonate or carboxylic anionic surfactants comprising a fatty chain, - one or more solid fatty alcohols, and - one or more solid fatty esters. The invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment, in particular for conditioning, of keratin materials, in particular sensitized hair, using said composition.