Aqueous Emulsion Stability and Spreadability

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Solution Overview

Problem

Cosmetic emulsions with lamellar structures tend to lose stability at high temperatures, such as 50° C, and often suffer from poor spreadability and stickiness.

Innovation Solution

An aqueous emulsion comprising an ester of a fatty acid and polyglycerol, a fatty acid and glycerin, and a monohydric alcohol, combined with a compound having two alcoholic hydroxyl groups and an alkyl group, and a cellulosic or polysaccharide thickener, specifically hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose stearoxy ether, which maintains stability and reduces stickiness at high temperatures.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If a lamellar structure is used to provide reinforced skin barrier sensation, then skin barrier function is improved, but stability at high temperature deteriorates

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin barrier functionVSAvoidstability at high temperature
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent changes the chemical composition parameters by introducing specific ester compounds (fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, glycerin, and monohydric alcohol with 16-22 carbon atoms) and cellulosic thickeners with specific molecular structures. These parameter changes enable the lamellar structure to maintain stability at high temperatures while preserving skin barrier function.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite emulsion system combining multiple components: ester compounds (A), compounds with alcoholic hydroxyl groups (B), and cellulosic/thickening polysaccharides (C). This composite material approach allows the formulation to simultaneously achieve high-temperature stability and effective skin barrier reinforcement.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If a lamellar structure is used to provide reinforced skin barrier sensation, then skin barrier function is improved, but spreadability deteriorates and stickiness increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveskin barrier functionVSAvoidspreadability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent adjusts the HLB values and molecular structures of surfactants and emulsifiers to optimize the balance between lamellar structure formation and spreadability. By controlling the chemical parameters of components (A) and (B), the formulation achieves both skin barrier reinforcement and improved spreadability with reduced stickiness.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The emulsion achieves excellent stability at high temperatures (up to 50° C for a month or 45° C for three months) with improved spreadability and reduced stickiness, maintaining a stable lamellar structure and enhanced skin barrier function.

Implementation Method 1

Cosmetics with lamellar structures provide consumers with the sensation of a reinforced skin barrier

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectLamellar liquid crystal structure: Liquid Crystals

Implementation Method 2

an oil-in-water emulsion type cosmetic comprising a lamellar liquid crystal structure stabilized at low pH

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSelf-assembly: Self-Assembly

Implementation Method 3

stabilized at low pH (3 to 4.8) by hydrophilic gelling agent, lipophilic surfactant (HLB 2 to 5), hydrophilic surfactant (HLB 8 to 12)

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHydrophilic interaction: Hydrophile

Implementation Method 4

a cellulosic thickener, and/or a polysaccharide thickener comprising glucose, glucuronic acid and rhamnose as constituent monosaccharides of the main chain

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectThickening:

Implementation Method 5

an oil-in-water emulsion comprising (A) an ester of a fatty acid of 16 to 22 carbon atoms and polyglycerol, an ester of a fatty acid of 16 to 22 carbon atoms and glycerin, and a monohydric alcohol of 16 to 22 carbon atoms

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion stabilization: Emulsion

Implementation Method 6

a compound having at least two alcoholic hydroxyl groups and an alkyl group of 16 to 22 carbon atoms and no phosphorus atoms

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectAmphiphilic interaction: Amphiphiles

Data Source

PatentUS20240050338A1Aqueous emulsion
Publication Date: 2024.02.15 LVMH RECH

AI summary

The present invention relates to an aqueous emulsion comprising: (A) an ester of a fatty acid of 16 to 22 carbon atoms and polyglycerol, an ester of a fatty acid of 16 to 22 carbon atoms and glycerin and a monohydric alcohol of 16 to 22 carbon atoms; (B) a compound having at least two alcoholic hydroxyl groups and an alkyl group of 16 to 22 carbon atoms and no phosphorus atom, or a salt thereof, wherein component (B) is different from component (A); and (C) a cellulosic thickener and/or a polysaccharide thickener comprising glucose, glucuronic acid and rhamnose as constituent monosaccharides of the main chain.