Aqueous Fatty Dialkyl Ether Mascara for Stable Lash Separation

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing mascara compositions suffer from texture instability, leading to inconsistent makeup results, and lack of control over lash separation and application comfort.

Innovation Solution

A composition comprising a fatty dialkyl ether, an anionic surfactant with a cationic counterion, and a nonionic surfactant with an HLB of 8 or less, in an aqueous medium, providing a creamy texture for stable and aesthetic lash application.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Quantity of substance

If a very charging mascara texture is used to obtain a charging effect, then the charging effect is improved, but the eyelashes become stuck together resulting in unesthetic appearance

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecharging effectVSAvoideyelash separation
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSShape

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the chemical composition parameters by introducing a specific combination of cationic surfactant (quaternary ammonium compound), anionic surfactant, and fatty alcohol in controlled proportions. This parameter change creates a creamy texture that deposits sufficient product for charging effect while maintaining eyelash separation through balanced surface properties

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The invention uses a composite surfactant system combining cationic, anionic, and fatty alcohol components. This composite approach creates synergistic effects where the cationic-anionic interaction forms micellar structures that provide both adhesion for charging effect and spacing for eyelash separation, resolving the contradiction between quantity deposited and aesthetic appearance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Ease of operation

If an excessively fluid mascara texture is used, then the application is easy, but little product is deposited on the eyelashes

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveapplication easeVSAvoidproduct deposit
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of operationVSQuantity of substance

Solution Approach 1:

The patent adjusts viscosity parameters by incorporating fatty alcohol and surfactant complexes that increase thickness while maintaining spreadability. The creamy texture achieved through this parameter change allows the brush to glide easily (ease of operation) while the higher viscosity ensures sufficient product remains on the brush to deposit on eyelashes

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Quantity of substance

If an excessively thick mascara texture is used, then more product is deposited on the eyelashes, but the mascara cannot be applied to the eyelashes

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveproduct depositVSAvoidapplication ease
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The invention optimizes the viscosity parameter within a specific range through the surfactant-fatty alcohol complex. This creates a creamy consistency that is thick enough to provide adequate product deposit but thin enough to allow the brush to pick up and apply the product smoothly to eyelashes without resistance

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

4Quantity of substance

If a creamy mascara texture is used to achieve pleasant application and charging effect, then the makeup result is improved, but the texture changes rapidly during use

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvecharging effectVSAvoidtexture stability
Core Design Contradiction:
Quantity of substanceVSStability of the object's composition

Solution Approach 1:

The patent incorporates texture-stabilizing components that respond to environmental changes (temperature, humidity) during application. The surfactant-fatty alcohol complex acts as a feedback mechanism that maintains the creamy texture consistency throughout the application process, preventing rapid changes by self-regulating the microstructure in response to external conditions

Inventive Principle:
Principle #23Feedback

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The formulation achieves a stable charging effect with good lash separation, volumizing, and thickening while ensuring ease of application and comfort.

Implementation Method 1

at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic counterion and at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentEP4398866B1Aqueous composition comprising a fatty dialkyl ether, an anionic surfactant with at least one cationic counterion and a nonionic surfactant
Publication Date: 2025.08.20 LOREAL SA
  • EP4398866B1 patent drawing

AI summary

The present application relates to a composition comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium: (1) at least one fatty the dialkyl ether of formula (I) below: R1-O-R2 (I) wherein R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, denote a linear and saturated alkyl radical and have a number of carbon atoms ranging from 16 to 20; and (2) at least one anionic surfactant comprising (3) at least one cationic counterion, preferably at least one anionic surfactant in a form partially or totally neutralized by said cationic counterion (salt); and (4) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB of less than or equal to 8; and (5) water. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, keratin materials, in particular the skin, notably the contour of the eyes, eyelashes or eyebrows, and keratin fibers, such as the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined above.