Ascorbic Acid Cosmetic Stability via Cationic Polymer Mediation
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Solution Overview
Problem
Aqueous cosmetic compositions containing ascorbic acid become unstable and change color when formulated at high concentrations, leading to degradation and loss of appeal due to unacceptable brown coloration and chemical instability.
Innovation Solution
Incorporating at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid and a cationic polymer, such as cationic galactomannan gums or cationic cellulose polymers modified with linear fatty chains, within a pH range of 5 to 7, to maintain stability and transparency.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Quantity of substance
If ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium at high levels (greater than 1% by weight), then the concentration of the active ingredient is improved, but the formulation becomes unstable and changes color dramatically
Solution Approach 1:
The patent introduces an intermediary substance (specific polymer or stabilizing agent) that mediates between ascorbic acid and the aqueous medium, preventing direct interaction that causes instability and color change. This intermediary protects the ascorbic acid while maintaining its high concentration in the formulation.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent changes key parameters of the formulation including pH level, ionic strength, and presence of specific ions (calcium, magnesium) to create conditions where high concentrations of ascorbic acid remain stable. By adjusting these parameters, the formulation maintains both high active ingredient concentration and stability.
2Quantity of substance
If ascorbic acid is introduced into an aqueous medium at high levels (greater than 1% by weight), then the concentration of the active ingredient is improved, but the color changes dramatically up to brown coloration
Solution Approach 1:
The patent introduces an intermediary substance (specific polymer or stabilizing agent) that mediates between ascorbic acid and the aqueous medium, preventing direct interaction that causes instability and color change. This intermediary protects the ascorbic acid while maintaining its high concentration in the formulation.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent changes key parameters of the formulation including pH level, ionic strength, and presence of specific ions (calcium, magnesium) to create conditions where high concentrations of ascorbic acid remain stable. By adjusting these parameters, the formulation maintains both high active ingredient concentration and stability.
3Ease of operation
If ascorbic acid is used in serum or solution type aqueous compositions, then the product is ready to use, but the vitamin C eventually degrades in the aqueous medium
Solution Approach 1:
The patent performs preliminary stabilization actions during formulation by incorporating specific polymers and adjusting parameters before the product is used. This preliminary protection prevents degradation during storage while maintaining the product in a ready-to-use state, eliminating the need for extemporaneous preparation.
Solution Approach 2:
The patent introduces an intermediary substance (specific polymer or stabilizing agent) that mediates between ascorbic acid and the aqueous medium, preventing direct interaction that causes instability and color change. This intermediary protects the ascorbic acid while maintaining its high concentration in the formulation.
Data Source
AI summary
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising:at least 30% by weight of water with respect to the total composition weight,at least 5% by weight of ascorbic acid with respect to the total composition weight,at least one cationic polymer chosen from cationic galactomannan gums and cationic cellulose polymers modified by groups including at least one linear fatty chain,said composition having a pH between 5 and 7, preferably between 5.5 and 6.5.It also relates to a cosmetic product for the care of keratin materials using this composition.