Auto-Belay Lock-Off Braking for Mid-Route Rest Control
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Solution Overview
Problem
Existing climbing systems, such as auto-belay devices, cannot allow climbers to rest or hangdog mid-route, as they automatically lower the climber to the ground upon loading.
Innovation Solution
The development of automatic descent control systems and devices that can operate in two configurations: a normal operational configuration for automatic lowering and a lock-off operational configuration for allowing the climber to hang above the ground surface.
Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles
Engineering Contradiction Analysis
1Reliability
If auto-belay devices automatically lower the climber to the ground upon loading, then the climber is safely lowered to the ground, but the climber cannot rest or hangdog mid-route
Solution Approach 1:
The braking system is designed to dynamically adjust between two operational states: an automatic lowering mode where the climber is lowered to the ground, and a lock-off mode where the climber is held suspended mid-route. This dynamic adaptability allows the same system to serve multiple functions based on climber needs.
Solution Approach 2:
The system changes the descent rate parameter from a continuous automatic lowering rate to a controlled slower rate or zero rate (lock-off) upon receiving a signal from the engagement device. This parameter change enables the climber to rest at intermediate positions while maintaining safety.
2Force
If the braking system provides strong braking force to lower the climber to the ground, then the descent is controlled, but the climber cannot be held suspended mid-air
Solution Approach 1:
The braking system transitions from a static strong-braking state to a dynamic state where braking force can be modulated. When the engagement device is activated, the system adjusts the braking force to maintain the climber at a suspended position rather than continuously lowering them to the ground.
Solution Approach 2:
The system uses feedback from the engagement device to adjust braking force levels. When the engagement device detects the climber's weight and receives an activation signal, it sends feedback to the braking system to reduce braking force to a level that holds the climber suspended rather than lowering them.
3Device complexity
If the system uses a single braking configuration for automatic lowering, then the system is simple, but it cannot provide both automatic lowering and lock-off functions
Solution Approach 1:
The braking system is designed with multi-functionality to perform both automatic lowering and lock-off operations using a single integrated configuration. The engagement device acts as a universal control that directs the braking system to perform either function based on climber needs, eliminating the need for separate braking mechanisms.
Solution Approach 2:
The single braking configuration is made dynamic through the engagement device, allowing it to switch between two operational modes: automatic lowering mode and lock-off mode. This dynamic capability enables one braking system to fulfill multiple functions that would traditionally require separate systems.
4Speed
If the descent rate is set to a fast rate for efficient lowering, then the climber reaches the ground quickly, but the climber cannot rest or attempt difficult moves mid-route
Solution Approach 1:
The descent rate is made dynamic rather than fixed. The system can operate at a first descent rate for efficient lowering to the ground, and switch to a second slower descent rate or zero descent rate (lock-off) when the engagement device is activated, allowing climbers to pause and attempt difficult moves.
Solution Approach 2:
The descent rate parameter is changed from a single fixed value to a variable parameter that can take on different values based on system state. When the engagement device is activated, the descent rate parameter changes from the faster lowering rate to a slower rate or zero, enabling mid-route pauses.
Applied Scientific Principles
This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.
Function Achieved in This Case
Enables climbers to rest or attempt difficult moves mid-route without being lowered all the way to the ground, while still allowing for automatic lowering to the ground when desired.
Implementation Method 1
at least one braking system that provides a braking force when the line is loaded so as to control extension of the line and a descent rate of the load
Implementation Method 2
an eddy current braking system that provides a braking force when the line is loaded
Implementation Method 3
an electromagnetic braking system that provides a braking force when the line is loaded
Implementation Method 4
a magnetic braking system that provides a braking force when the line is loaded
Data Source
AI summary
An automatic descent control device includes a line configured to be attached to a load. A line system retracts slack from the line when the line is not loaded and extends the line when the line is loaded. At least one braking system provides a braking force when the line is loaded so as to control extension of the line and a descent rate of the load. The at least one braking system is operable in at least two configurations, a first configuration that the at least one braking system lowers the load at a first descent rate, and a second configuration that the at least one braking system lowers or locks the load at a second descent rate. The load being a constant and the first descent rate is greater than the second descent rate.


